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present. From its breathtaking natural beauty, to its ultra-modern and unique architecture, the UAE has presented boundless photo opportunities during its fascinating history. We truly believe you’ll want to view these stunning images again and again.

elcome to a very special issue of Simply Abu Dhabi. This year marks what would have been the 100th birthday of the founding father of the UAE, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. To mark this centenary, His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, President of the United Arab Emirates, has declared 2018 to be the Year of Zayed. A series of events and initiatives will be both a celebration of Sheikh Zayed’s life and values, as well as an opportunity to educate the world at large about the remarkable accomplishments and far-reaching vision of this great man.

Elsewhere in these pages, we bring to you our signature array of all the finest in luxury. This issue, we’re pleased to present an interview with master jeweller Giampiero Bodino, who was a ‘ghost-designer’ for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget and Jaeger-LeCoultre before starting his own exceptional line of exquisite jewellery, each piece a staggering work of art. We’ll show you the latest ranges from the world’s finest horologists and jewellers, and the hottest looks from this season’s fashion runways. Our property team scouts some of the most desirable properties and luxe interiors from the UAE, UK, USA and beyond. Whilst our travel writers serve up some incredibly tempting locations, from the spectacular slopes of Arosa, Switzerland, to the luxury beachfront collection of properties in St. Lucia. And there’s so much more—we think this is definitely an issue to savour.

All of us here at Simply Abu Dhabi are honoured to be able to participate in the Year of Zayed by bringing you this issue’s cover story about Sheikh Zayed, as well as the accompanying feature about the 10th anniversary of the aweinspiring mosque named after him. We hope through these pages you’ll come to learn more about Sheikh Zayed and the history of the UAE, and be inspired by his lasting legacy of tolerance and understanding between cultures. We may have lost Sheikh Zayed in 2004, but his life’s work thrives everywhere around us: through the prosperity of the nation, the educational and business opportunities available, and above all else, through the diverse culture and spirit of brotherhood among all walks of life. On such an auspicious occasion for the nation, we are also delighted to be able to share with you an incredible collection of UAE photography, past and

Finally, we’d like to extend our humble thanks to His Highness Sheikh Khalifa and His Highness Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Minister of Presidential Affairs, for their invaluable roles in sharing the message of Sheikh Zayed with the world. We’re so grateful we could play our part in the Year of Zayed and we sincerely hope you love this special issue we’ve been lucky enough to create for you.

W E L C O M E T O S I M P LY A B U D H A B I :

Wishing the World: Peace, Prosperity & Progress in 2018

“Your Passport to Pure Luxury” Arnie S Hira – Co-Founder Arnie.Hira@simplyabudhabi.com

Jordana Imogen Lynch – Co-Founder Jordana.lynch@simplyabudhabi.com

Management Team Car Editor: Damien Reid - Damien@simplyabudhabi.com Property Editor: Julia Zaltzman - Julia@simplyabdhabi.com Media Investment Director: Anthony Grundy – anthony.grundy@simplyabudhabi.com Sales Director: Ross Fenton – ross@simplyabudhabi.com Director of Photography: Charn Kamal Singh – charn@simplyabudhabi.com

Creative Director: Colin Statham - Colin@simplyabudhabi.com Managing Editor: Nick Rice - Nick@simplyabudhabi.com Contributing Editor: Kerry Smith - kerry@simplyabudhabi.com Fashion Editor: Ivan Allegranti - Ivan@simplyabudhabi.com Time / Jewellery Editor: Nick Rice - Nick@simplyabudhabi.com

Like our Facebook page via http://www.facebook.com/simplyabudhabi Follow us on instagram via http://www.instagram.com/simplyabudhabi or via the app @simplyabudhabi Images: All photos used in Simply Abu Dhabi are by Getty Images/Shutterstock/GoRunway/ Distribution: Abu Dhabi Media Company Circulation Director: Mr Mohamad Al Zarouni Operation Manger: Mr. Khaled Ibrahim Distribution In charge: Muzammil Sulaiman Disclaimer: The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on the information contained in this publication, which is provided for general and entertainment use and may not be appropriate for the reader’s particular circumstances. The intellectual property and the ownership of trademarks are acknowledged. No part of Simply Abu Dhabi or any parts of the contents thereof may be duplicated or reproduced, saved, stored in a retrieval system or communicated/transmitted in any form without written permission of the publishers. An exemption is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair and reasonable review. Simply Abu Dhabi Limited HQ is Elizabeth House, Elizabeth Street, Manchester, M8 8JJ, United Kingdom.

Born in Abu Dhabi, Designed in Manchester, Distributed throughout the world. 41 S I M P LY A B U D H A B I


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CONTENTS

Year of Zayed

Page 45

Grand Mosque Anniversary UAE photography

Simply Jewellery

Page 188

Giampiero Bodino, Haute Joallerie reviews; Chanel, Chaumet, Dior, Chopard, Alessio Boschi.

Simply Time

Page 199

Proudly presenting the Year of Zayed timepiece, Richard Mille, A.Lange & Sรถhne,, Audermars Piguet, Bovet, H.Moser & Cie , Panerai, Greubel Forsey. IWC, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Hermes, Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Simply Fashion

Page 226

Mens SS 2018: Duca Sartoria, Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, Salvatore Ferragamo, Stefano Ricci, Dolce and Gabbana, Corneliani. Womens Paris Haute Couture collections: Valentino, Chanel, Ulyana Sergeenko, Dior, Ralph & Russo, Zuhair Murad, Guopei, Giorgio Armani Prive.

Simply Property

Page 236

Emaar Act One / Act Two, Flora Di Menna designs, Hamilton Grand St Andrews, Marilyn Hoffman, Mark Wilkinson, Sugar Beach residences St Lucia.

Simply Travel

Page 268

Arosa, Six senses residences Courchevel, Tagomago Private island, Coco Collection Maldivian cuisine.

Simply Beautiful

Page 289

JK7 skincare, Ex Nihlo Fragrance.

Simply Wealth

Page 296

Defined Value Diamonds.

Simply Abu Dhabi and Simply Abu Dhabi.com are intellectual property of Simply Abu Dhabi Limited, Elizabeth House, Elizabeth Street, Manchester, M8 8JJ. U.K. Fax: 0044 161 832 4566 / Skype: simplyabudhabi

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CHANEL .COM THE CHANEL MOMENT - THE J12 WATCH


A Century of Inspiration:

Celebrating the

Yearof Zayed 45 S I M P LY A B U D H A B I

Background Photography: Khalid Al Hammadi


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his year marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, forever remembered as the founding father of the United Arab Emirates. In honour of this historic national milestone, His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, President of the United Arab Emirates, has declared 2018 to be the Year of Zayed. A series of celebratory and educational events are planned, within the UAE and internationally, to honour the man to whom we all owe so much.

In this special Simply Abu Dhabi feature, we’ll share information about the Year of Zayed, and tell you more about this great man: his life, his values, and his legacy. One of Sheikh Zayed’s greatest lessons was about the importance of cross-cultural education as a means to achieve peace and understanding. We hope that in our own way, by telling the story of this remarkable leader, we can help inform and inspire readers to learn more about him and the history of the UAE. Now more than ever, it seems, tolerance and mutual understanding are virtues that must be nourished and encouraged if we are to prosper together in peace. There’s no doubting that the lessons of Sheikh Zayed are more relevant to the world than ever before.

The Year of Zayed 2018 will celebrate the life, values and achievements of the late Sheikh Zayed as an inspirational world leader, and encourage future generations to honour his legacy and fulfil his vision of prosperity, tolerance and peace. The scheduled events are being coordinated by the Founder’s Office and Local Committees for the Year of Zayed established in each Emirate, all under the guidance of the Higher National Committee for the Year of Zayed.

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Background Photography: Muhammad Abu Bakar, ACCA


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The desert environment has taught us to be patient until the land blossoms, bestowing its bounties on us. Thus, we have to be fortitudinous, supporting our odyssey of development and progression to achieve the aspirations of our people.

Background Photography: Mahmoud Ghedjatti


Background Photography: Muhammad Abu Bakar, ACCA

The aim behind the programme is to create greater awareness of the life and achievements of Sheikh Zayed for local, regional and international audiences alike, and raise his profile to that of one of the world’s most significant and inspirational leaders. What’s more, the Year of Zayed is intended to reinforce Sheikh Zayed’s standing as an eternal source of national pride and a powerful symbol of the UAE around the world. For an entire year, the UAE will celebrate and honour the legacy of its founder, through projects and initiatives that are consistent with his vision and values. The importance of the role Sheikh Zayed played in creating the UAE as we know it today cannot be understated. Simply put, there is no aspect of life in the country that doesn’t derive in some way from his wisdom and values. As a spiritual inspiration and the visionary leader of a new country, Sheikh Zayed was a man of peace, wisdom, and courage, whose legacy will live for generations to come. In order to truly understand the United Arab Emirates, we must first understand more about its beloved Founding Father.

The young scholar and sportsman Sheikh Zayed was born in 1918, the fourth and youngest son of Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed bin Khalifa, the 14th ruler of the Al Nahyan family. He was named after his grandfather, known as The Great Zayed, the governor of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi from 1855 to 1909. When the young Sheikh was four years of age, his father became the ruler of the Emirate Abu Dhabi. Like Sheikh Zayed, his father was a champion of tolerance, building strong relationships with other Arab nations during his reign, which ended in 1926; he passed on when Sheikh Zayed was only nine. However, he left for his son a lasting legacy: the rare ability to unite people in the spirit of peace and mutual prosperity.

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The education of our people is a great wealth. We are proud of our educated nation because through knowledge and science we will open the horizons of a glorious future.

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Background Photography: Karim Eldeghedy


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Despite being born into the ruling family, life was not easy then, even for the most privileged. Abu Dhabi at this time remained poor and undeveloped, and the harsh desert climate made economic prosperity challenging. People travelled primarily by camel or by boat, and sustained their families with fishing, pearl diving or the limited agriculture available on the inland oases. Schools and formal education were rare, but Sheikh Zayed’s father had ensured his young son had a tutor in the fundamental teachings of Islam. Growing up in Qasr al-Hosn, the Palace Fort, the residence of the ruling family since the 1790s, the young Sheikh studied his Holy Quran, and come to see it as more than the holy book – in it, he found instruction and inspiration for how to live a just life. He also spent time in Majlis, the private meeting rooms of his father, the ruling sheikh, where he absorbed the history and customs of Arabic culture from the respected elders who met with his father. Here too he began to hear of the political issues of the time, as the elder leaders discussed how to resolve them. Thus, by the time of his father’s passing, the nine-year old Sheikh Zayed was already growing familiar with the responsibilities of leadership in a disparate and sometimes contentious group of separate Emirates. His mother, Sheikha Salama, also played a significant role in shaping the man he was to become, teaching him the importance of treating others with respect. The Sheikh’s thirst for knowledge increased as he matured. He developed a keen interest in the history of Arabia, its culture, and poetry, as well as a passion for hunting, falconry, and horse riding. He joined the Desert Knights and went into the vast desert with Bedouin tribesmen, absorbing every aspect of the nomadic culture. In the Arabian Desert, Sheikh Zayed gained experience and knowledge of the desert environment which played a significant role in shaping his worldview. It’s no surprise then, that when the

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Our major aims focus on raising the standard of living of our citizens and the development of our country. One’s homeland is like a tree which constantly requires the care and attention of its citizens. Every UAE citizen is committed to serve his nation and work toward its prosperity and welfare.



Our life at present on the blessed soil of our country is a triumph over the pains of the past and the harshness of its conditions. 58 S I M P LY A B U D H A B I


first oil company exploration teams arrived in the region in the early 1930s, Sheikh Zayed was chosen to act as their guide, gaining his first exposure to the industry that would ultimately change the future of the Emirates.

The beginnings of a political career The Sheikh officially began his political career in 1946, when he was named Ruler’s Representative in the Eastern Region of Abu Dhabi. At the age of 28, the Sheikh was responsible for the administration of six villages and an adjacent part of the desert around the oasis of Al Ain. By the late 1940s and early 1950s, Sheikh Zayed had established what he wished to achieve for the people of Al Ain, and what’s more, he was determined to lead by example. Despite not having much in the way of government resources, Sheikh Zayed was able to accomplish a tremendous amount of progress in Al Ain, personally funding the first modern school in the emirate, the Al Nahyan School, in 1959, and collaborating with relatives and friends to encourage them to contribute further resources. His time in the desert gave him familiarity and empathy with the issues his people faced, and achieved remarkably sophisticated solutions for the scarcity of water resources whilst restructuring water ownership rights to ensure a more equitable distribution among the people. This innovative measure resulted in the growth of agricultural development and the resurgence of the oasis as the predominant market centre. He built the first hospital and the first network of paved roads and streets in Al Ain, and his city planning helped ensure that the city would remain one of the most verdant in the region. To this day, ornamental and decorative trees can be seen that the Sheikh planted as part of his far-sighted forestry programme. On the cultural side, he founded a museum in Al Ain to find and study

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Background Photography: Karim Eldeghedy


archaeological artefacts from 4000 years of settlement in the desert. Preserving and honouring the past, while simultaneously planning for future progress, is a high-wire act. But it was the essence of Sheikh Zayed’s visionary quality. In the 1950s, the discovery of oil and political developments were converging to change the Emirates’ future forever – and the wise leadership of Sheikh Zayed, and the growing respect he commanded – played a crucial role in the events of the next three decades. In 1952, a territorial dispute over the Al Buraimi oasis was resolved, as the Sheikh worked with those involved to persuade them that tribal conflict would only make the struggle to survive in the desert more difficult, unless everyone cooperated in building a better future together. Sheikh Zayed’s understanding of tribal dynamics was the key to resolving disputes and moving towards unity. His role in these negotiations won him the admiration and respect of all parties during the settlement negotiations. During the British occupation of Al Buraimi, the Sheikh continued to help develop the region and restore the falaj system, a network of water channels that kept the area irrigated and fertile. In an incredible display of generosity and integrity, the Al Nahyan family turned over their own private shares of the water supply to the public, all to the greater good. For Sheikh Zayed, the greatest investment was in people, those who would then go on to create the future prosperity of the Emirates. Sheikh Zayed made a tremendous impression on the British in the region at the time, whether they were representatives of the oil exploration companies, or with the military forces. The late Sir Wilfred Thesiger wrote of Sheikh Zayed in 1948, “His manner was quiet but masterful. I was eager to see him with the Bedouins. They loved him because he was so simple and friendly. When they spoke of him, they said ‘Sheikh Zayed is

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Since God bestows His graces on us providing us with wealth, it is our role to use this wealth for the benefit and prosperity of our people as an expression of gratitude to our Lord.

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Background Photography: Mahmoud Ghedjatti


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one of us.” Captain Anthony Shepherd, in his book ‘Adventure in the Arabic Peninsula’, wrote, “Sheikh Zayed was loved and respected by all who knew him, especially the Bedouins living in Al Buraimi Oasis. No doubt he was the most powerful personality in the region. I used to visit him weekly at his fort. He had a particular and admirable way of informing me about current political issues. I entered with respect and left with even more respect for him. Sheikh Zayed was definitely one of the few great men I ever met.” Colonel Hugh Boustead, the British political representative to the region, was one of Sheikh Zayed’s greatest admirers, writing “I was amazed by the crowds that constantly surrounded him, showing interest and respect for him. He was an extremely kind and generous man. I was also amazed by the number of developments he initiated in the city of Al Ain, including the construction of canals for a better irrigation system, the digging of wells and the construction of cement buildings within traditional Emirati communities. Everyone who visits Al Buraimi notices that the people living here are truly happy.” The admiration was reciprocated: in 1953, the year after the Al Buraimi dispute, Sheikh Zayed visited Europe for the first time. Years later, he recalled what an impression the United Kingdom had made upon him, and that he resolved to provide similar hospital and educational facilities to his own people, when Abu Dhabi became more prosperous. In Paris, the Sheikh and his brother were successful in a court hearing regarding oil rights in the region – a decision with momentous consequences.

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The process of construction and development requires the efforts not only of the government but also of all the citizens of the UAE.

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Background Photography: Khalid Al Hammadi

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Oil exports began in 1962, and with revenues beginning to flow in to other Emirates, the people of Abu Dhabi wished for the same success. Given his myriad achievements to date, Sheikh Zayed was chosen to succeed his brother as Ruler of Abu Dhabi in August 1966. Much as he did in Al Ain, Sheikh Zayed was in a position to change the lives of his people, this time on a much larger scale. He quickly moved to leverage oil revenues into developing essential services that would benefit everyone and lay the blueprint for a prosperous future, establishing schools, housing, hospitals and roads. Then, in 1968, Britain announced that it would leave the region by 1971. Once again, the Sheikh’s visionary outlook led to the idea that, free from British rule, the disparate tribes of the Emirates could unite to build a new future together.

The birth of the UAE Sheikh Zayed, along with Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum of Dubai, began the difficult process of negotiating a federation of the Emirates. It’s staggering to think of now: after hundreds of years of people identifying with one Emirate, people were being asked to embrace an entirely new sense of national identity. After decades of successful building consensus and communicating his long-term vision, Sheikh Zayed was successful in getting the other Emirates to agree that that their future strength lay in unity, with each ruling family retaining autonomy in their local Emirate. On 2 December 1971, the newly formed nation of the United Arab Emirates raised its flag, and Sheikh Zayed was elected by his fellow emirs as the first President of the UAE, a post to which he was re-elected several times over.


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Our life at present on the blessed soil of our country is a triumph over the pains of the past and the harshness of its conditions. Thanks to our ancestors who challenged the adversities of time and the misfortunes of life. Due to their fortitude, our generation is living in prosperity and grace.

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Background Photography: Baber Afzal


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As President, Sheikh Zayed once again called on the Bedouin traditions of consensus and consultation. He maintained the practice of informal meetings in the majlis he had witnessed as a boy where his father held so many discussions. Then, as Abu Dhabi began its rapid development, Sheikh Zayed formalised the majli system in 1970 by forming the National Consultative Council, which brought together the leaders of each of the Emirates. The Federal National Council was established in 1971. The co-architect of the UAE’s nationhood, H.H. Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, ruler of Dubai and Vice President of the UAE, recently spoke about what Sheikh Zayed’s legacy is the present day, as well as the future: “Sheikh Zayed has instilled in us the willpower and determination to challenge and achieve the impossible. This is why we are always convinced that we are capable of being pioneers and to become one of the best countries in the world. He inspired us to see his way to the future, to follow in his footsteps with confidence and insight, and to consolidate the gains and achievements.”

The Core Values of Sheikh Zayed His public career is evidence enough of the Sheikh’s wisdom, the first of the values being commemorated in the Year of Zayed. But how were the other values manifested, and how do they resonate with us today?

Respect In his interactions with everyone, from all walks of life, Sheikh Zayed treated everyone with the utmost respect for their humanity. He advocated for brotherhood and unity, and stood firmly against intolerance. He once said, “The true Muslim is friendly to all human beings and a brother to other


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Muslims and non-Muslims alike. This is because Islam is a religion of mercy and tolerance.” The Sheikh led by example: he welcomed and brought together people of many nationalities and faiths, who all contributed to create the UAE as it exists today. Under his rule, the UAE was one of the most open and diverse nations in the region, and thus it remains today. Sheikh Zayed’s ideals of tolerance were instrumental in building the consensus and cooperation that defines the Federation, and allowed it to prosper. “The ruler, any ruler, is only there to serve his people and secure for them prosperity and progress. To achieve this, he should live among his people to feel their wishes and know their problems, and this cannot be achieved if he isolates himself from them.” – Sheikh Zayed

Sustainability Sheikh Zayed believed strongly that the resources of the country should be used to benefit everyone. From his time in the desert, he knew that the conservation of the natural environment and wildlife was an essential part of the character of his people, who had to struggle to survive in the harsh and arid land. While he enjoyed hunting in the desert as a young man, he gave up hunting with rifles at the age of 25, as a contribution to conserving wildlife. The Sheikh worked throughout his life to preserve such species as the Arabian Oryx and the sand gazelle, and was an avid falconer. In 1997, the World Wildlife Fund recognized the Sheikh’s contribution to conservation efforts, awarding him the prestigious Gold Panda award in 1997, and a year after his death in 2004, he

Background Photography: Khalifa Al Katheeri

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was named Champion of the Earth by the United Nations Environment Programme for his lifelong advocacy and advancement of sustainable development. “If Allah the Almighty has favoured us with wealth, our first commitment is to seek Allah’s satisfaction and to express our gratitude to Him by utilising this wealth to make this country better and to bring goodness to its people.” -Sheikh Zayed

Human Development From the very beginnings of his public career, the welfare of his people was of utmost importance to Sheikh Zayed. His remarkable vision, combined with his exceptional skills in making his goals into reality, led to vast improvements in education and infrastructure that facilitated economic growth for all. The women of the UAE also benefited from his views on equality in education and employment. “The woman is half of the society; any country which pursues development should not leave her in poverty or illiteracy.” While we may take this viewpoint for granted now, at the time it was astonishingly progressive. Now, women play key role in the UAE government, a third of them in senior positions. In the UAE, 70 per cent of university graduates are female – one of the highest rates worldwide – and in a first for the Arab world, it’s a requirement that women are represented on corporate boards of directors. Women also hold posts in the judiciary system, the diplomatic corps, and in the Cabinet. “No matter how many buildings, foundations, schools and hospitals we build, or how many bridges we raise, all these are material entities. The real spirit behind progress is the human spirit.”- Sheikh Zayed

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We strongly believe in freedom – therefore, a free atmosphere will inevitably enrich our ideas and lead to the interaction of opinions to achieve our aspirations. Nevertheless, the UAE people, both rulers and people believe that our priority is the reinforcement of the Federation experience strengthening its bonds, deepening its significance and providing it with momentum to achieve the interests not only of our generation but of all future generations.

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Background Photography: Saleh Awadh Al-Tamimi



A peacekeeper and humanitarian In the 1990s, the Sheikh realised that the UAE might play a more active role in international peacekeeping operations. Throughout the decade, the UAE Armed Forces took part in coalitions to work towards ending the civil strife in Lebanon and reconstruction fin Somalia. In early 1999, Sheikh Zayed was among the first world leaders to express support for the NATO campaign to force Serbia to halt its genocidal activities against the people of Kosovo. From late 1999 to 2001, the UAE contingent serving with the UN’s KFOR peacekeeping force was the largest from any of the non-NATO states, and the only one from an Arab or Muslim country. While the UAE was ready to help fulfil its international responsibilities, Sheikh Zayed was also adamant that the nation’s role be focused on relief and rehabilitation efforts across the world. In the Balkans, Iraq, Afghanistan and other regions, the UAE’s policies were a reflection of the Sheik’s desire to share the UAE’s good fortune with the less fortunate. The Sheikh was a devoted philanthropist and in his personal life, he lived modestly. In his view, the oil wealth in the UAE was a gift from God, one that must be shared with people in need. He founded the Zayed Charitable and Humanitarian Foundation and the Abu Dhabi Fund for Development, even before the foundation of the UAE. Through these, and other institutions like the Red Crescent Society, Sheikh Zayed provided economic assistance to at least 40 countries on three continents and endowed many charitable works. To this day, the UAE plays a significant role in providing relief and development assistance worldwide. 85 S I M P LY A B U D H A B I


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Background Photography: Marek KijevskyĚ


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Throughout his lifetime, Sheikh Zayed demonstrated a tolerant version of pure Islamic faith, far removed from fanaticism or extremism. For him, Islam was the true source of instruction and guidance to be followed in life, and that one of the key teachings is tolerance. Thus, Sheikh Zayed’s enlightened vision of inclusion stemmed from the heart of Arabic–Islamic culture. He maintained that, despite myriad beliefs, religions, and civilisations, people remain connected by common human bonds, united together regardless of differences.

Looking ahead to the Year of Zayed The transformation of the Emirates under leadership of Sheikh Zayed was seismic, yet he was able to sustain and nourish a sense of identity and pride in Arabic history and culture. From a land of seven separate Emirates, and the struggle to survive in the challenging environment, Sheikh Zayed created a united federation, one that prospers and thrives; where industry, education, and social services are in place to develop the land’s most precious resource: its people. In an often-turbulent world, the UAE under Sheikh Zayed was a shining example of tolerance, stability and progress, and remains so today. The beloved Sheikh Zayed passed away on 2 November 2004. The legacy he left us with continues through his son, His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, the President of the United Arab Emirates. Sheikh Khalifa has said that “The Year of Zayed is a great national occasion when we will proudly share memories of the life of the Founding Father, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, and his gift to us of deeply rooted values, principles and traditions that have become part of our Emirati identity.” Individuals, businesses, and institutions across the UAE will be encouraged to reflect on how they, too, can uphold

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Background Photography: Khalid Al Hammadi




the “noble values instilled in them by the late Sheikh Zayed, including those of wisdom, respect, determination, loyalty, a sense of belonging to the nation, and a willingness to make sacrifices.” Wise, benevolent, tolerant, forward-thinking, devout, generous with his time and resources, highly esteemed by world leaders and beloved by his people, Sheikh Zayed was a truly great and inspirational figure. His legacy will always remain the shining light that points us to the future.

“The best way to celebrate the Year of Zayed would be by spreading Zayed’s glorious human and cultural legacy via all the people of the UAE, to continue his inspirational and noble values, and introduce these ideals to new generations.” Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan

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Celebrating Ten Years of the

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PHOTOGRAPHY: AMIR ASANI

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ust over 10 years ago, the doors were opened to a new mosque, one completely unlike anything the world had seen before. A place of worship, an architectural marvel, a centre of learning, a symbol of peace and tolerance, and a beloved landmark that defines the Abu Dhabi skyline – the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is quite simply one of the most iconic and deeply moving locations on earth.

But a decade on, the now-world-famous landmark serves as both a lasting monument to his legacy and to the values that define the heart and soul of the UAE. It’s somehow fitting then, that the 10th anniversary of the Grand Mosque that bears his name should fall on the 100th birthday of Baba Zayed. The man, and his vision of one united nation, lives forever in the resplendent mosque that is both a house of worship for the devout and a place of welcome for visitors who wish to learn about Islam or simply wish to admire the astonishing architecture.

This majestic Grand Mosque embodies the spirit of its founder – and the father of the United Arab Emirates – His Highness Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, affectionately remembered as “Baba”. As the first President of the UAE and the ruler of Abu Dhabi, Baba Zayed dedicated his life to developing the Emirates into nationhood, and to fostering the culture of peace, respect, and diversity that now defines our country.

We here at Simply Abu Dhabi, as well as the rest of the UAE – and indeed, the world – hold the Grand Mosque close to our hearts. To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Grand Mosque, this special feature will share a bit about its background, its incredible art and architecture, as well as its role as an important religious and spiritual centre. If you’ve not visited before, we hope these words and photographs inspire you to travel to the Grand Mosque - it will change you forever. If you have been fortunate enough to visit, we think you’ll agree: it’s as close to heaven as you will find on this earth.

Construction began in 1996 on the Grand Mosque, set at the entrance to Abu Dhabi Island. Sadly, Baba Zayed did not live to see the finished building; the UAE’s beloved president passed away in 2004, three years before the mosque opened as a public place of worship.

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The Artistry of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque Eleven years in the making, the breathtaking Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque will be a familiar sight to anyone who has been to Abu Dhabi in the last decade. It occupies a site close to the Maqta Bridge, the first link between Abu Dhabi Island and the mainland, such that even the location itself is rich with symbolism about the unification of the Emirates – as well as the link between the UAE and the rest of the world. What’s more, the site has an emotional connection as well, as the burial place of His Highness Sheikh Zayed and a reminder that his spirit is always with us. The pristine white colour of the structure was chosen specifically because it is a universal symbol of peace, while the reflecting pools that surround the mosque intensify the feeling of calming illumination, as the sunlight echoes off the water to the walls, gold-tipped domes, and minarets. In the evenings, a specially designed lighting system evokes the phases of the moon, changing in aspect as the month progresses. As the moon moves through its cycle and becomes full, the

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PHOTOGRAPHY: BABER AFZAL

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PHOTOGRAPHY: FATMA AL HARTHI

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lighting on the walls and minarets becomes more brilliant. Night or day, the Grand Mosque shines its serene light across the Abu Dhabi horizon for all to see, serving as our touchstone, our inspiration, and our welcome home. The Grand Mosque’s original architect was Yusef Abdelki from Syria, and over the 11 years of construction, literally thousands of incredibly talented artists, engineers, architects, designers, and contractors made enduring contributions to what would become one of the world’s most iconic and beloved landmarks. The mosque combines elements of different kinds of Arabic architecture in a unique way. This was a deliberate choice, with the goal of creating a harmonious blend of diverse Islamic styles into one comprehensive celebration of a culture that is remarkable rich in art and beauty. For example, the Grand Mosque’s superb archways and glorious gardens evoke Moorish architecture, while its domes call to mind the characteristic Ottoman style. But of course, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is utterly, wonderfully unique as well. It’s full of artistic inspiration and design touches that reflect the myriad creative minds from all over the world who have added to the site’s universal appeal. The use of pure white as the dominant colour stems from Sheik Zayed’s view that it symbolises piety and purity, and the white marble that characterises the walls and columns serves as a canvas of sorts for the countless works of craftsmanship that amaze visitors and humble worshippers at every turn.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: BABER AFZAL

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Verses from the Holy Quran are inscribed inside the mosque’s 82 domes, while the more than 1,000 columns in the arcade are embellished with golden palm fronts, inlaid floral patterns, and semi-precious stones, using techniques that date back to 16th-century Italy. The columns themselves are in the shape of palm trees, which have strong significance in the Emirates as symbols overcoming the harsh desert conditions to prosper in unity. Across the courtyard, constructed of 30 types of marble from all over the world, more inlaid flowers sprawl out over 17,000 square metres. As Baba Zayed envisioned, it is a product of a global union of artistic styles, materials, cultural influences, unified in the spirit of peace, brotherhood, and worship. In the main prayer hall of the Grand Mosque lies the world’s largest hand-knotted carpet, designed by Iranian master carpet maker, Ali Khaliqi. A masterpiece of craftsmanship, the 5700square metre carpet’s construction took 1,200 artisans from the Khorasan Province in Iran nearly two years to complete. The utterly vast carpet weighs 12 tonnes and comprises more than two billion individual, hand-tied knots. The dominant colour, green, was said to be Baba Zayed’s favourite colour. What’s more, like the palm tree, it holds significance in the Emirates as a symbol for rich and abundant life in the desert, while at the edges, a beige border evokes the sand around an oasis. Beyond being an artistic marvel and symbolic statement, the carpet was designed to serve a practical purpose as well: subtle raised lines across the surface help guide

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PHOTOGRAPHY: CHARLS P THOMAS

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worshippers to form neat rows while at prayer. As with every other aspect of the Grand Mosque, every element was meticulously planned as both an amazing piece of craftsmanship and a rich signifier of culture and faith. On your visit, don’t forget to look up: a number of astonishing chandeliers can be found on the ceilings of the mosque, by Faustig of Munich, the German designers who also crafted chandeliers for mosques in Oman and Sana’a. The largest of these hangs above the carpet in the main prayer hall, which has capacity for 40,000 worshippers, to give you an idea of the scale. The impossibly beautiful fixture was constructed from steel, brass, and glass panels studded with more than 10 million Swarovski crystals. Another 96 columns are on display within the main prayer room. These are cladded with luminous mother-of-pearl, which reminds one that the UAE’s heritage of pearl diving goes back more than 1,000 years and helped sustain the population for a millennium. In a technique particular to Islamic architecture, the crowns of the

columns are at the bottom, rather than the top. Along the Qibla wall, which is the wall that faces Mecca, the 99 names of Allah are inscribed in traditional Kufi-style calligraphy, illuminated by subtle lighting. The minbar, the pulpit from which the imam leads the worshippers in prayer, is adorned with intricate floral and shell patterns fashioned of carved cedar inlaid with mother of pearl, glass mosaic and white gold. A miniature version of the exterior domes sits at the top of the minbar, which the imam reaches by climbing 11 stairs.

The Grand Mosque as a House of Worship For all its many architectural marvels, the Grand Mosque is above all else a place of devotion and prayer for the faithful. On Fridays, which are very important in the Muslim religion, the prayer areas are closed to tourists and thousands of the faithful come to pray and listen to the imam’s sermon, which reflects on social and religious

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PHOTOGRAPHY: IHSAN SALHIA

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lessons from the Holy Quran. Several years ago, the government of the United Arab Emirates decided that there would be one Friday sermon throughout the nation, meaning that all of the faithful, no matter which mosque they attend, will all be united in the same experience. Each week, groups of imams and scholars select and research the topic, then share the lecture with each mosque across the Emirates. During the extreme heat of the summer, the Grand Mosque is a welcoming haven for those observing Ramadan. Air-conditioning units are set up in the courtyard, medics are on hand if needed, cool water and juicy dates are provided, and tents are specially constructed where worshippers can break their fast, when the cannon signals the end of the day. Around 30,000 meals are prepared each day during this time by the Armed Forces Officers Club and Hotel in Abu Dhabi. By the end of Ramadan, the number of worshippers in attendance can swell to as many as 55,000.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: KARIM ELDEGHEDY

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Visitors are made to feel very welcome, but must bear in mind the primary nature of the Grand Mosque as a place of worship and be respectful of custom. You may not enter the main hall during the prayer hours. Proper dress must be observed: men must not wear shorts, shoes must be removed before entering the Grand Mosque (so wear something easy to slip off and on), and the most gracious and accommodating staff will provide ladies with abaya (loose fitting robes) and shaila (headscarves). Men and women are asked not to show displays of affection, so there’s no touching, even when posing for photographs. Whilst remaining respectful, never forget that you are very welcome. The staff and tour guides are happy to show you around and answer all of your questions about the Grand Mosque, Islam, and Emirati culture. We encourage you to tour the grounds of the Mosque during prayer hours, and especially to spend some time at the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque Centre.

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The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque Centre Celebrates Its 10th Anniversary Over in the western minarets, visitors will find the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque Centre (SZGMC), an oasis of scholarship and education devoted to Sheikh Zayed’s vision of tolerance and understanding among cultures. Alongside the Grand Mosque, the Centre is commemorating its 10th anniversary as well. To mark the occasion, His Highness Sheikh Mansour Bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Presidential Affairs, launched an extraordinary exhibition, “Hajj: Memories of a Journey,” which was organized by SZGMC and the Abu Dhabi Tourism and Culture Authority. The exhibit displays an array of photographs, artworks, and manuscripts documenting the history of the Hajj pilgrimage, which is the journey devout Muslims take to Mecca. Visitors will see this profound experience brought to life through the centuries, from 7th-century friezes and panels excavated on Sir Bani Yas Island to rare footage taken by Sheikh Zayed himself in 1979.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: JAY VITHALDAS

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PHOTOGRAPHY: MAREK KIJEVSKÝ



Viewing the exhibition, Sheikh Mansour stated that the show was the “perfect opportunity to learn about the deeply ingrained values of tolerance in Islam, and explained that the Hajj pilgrimage is “a journey to return to one’s true self and to confront the intolerance that is rejected by the noble values of Islam.” These are values that shaped the life and the rule of the founding father of the UAE, and have defined the national identity to this day. The Emirates are known as one of the most tolerant societies in the world, a

testament to Baba Zayed’s vision of peaceful co-existence, learning, and prosperity. He taught us that tolerance is the key to the nation’s vitality, and proof of its ability to continuously advance and progress. Sheikh Zayed truly understood human nature, and knew that a culture of tolerance could unite us by emphasising the common humanity that links us together, regardless of religion, colour, language, origin or traditions. “We should be proud of our religion, because Islam is against all forms of racism,” taught Baba Zayed. “To stereotype a fellow human being is to deprive him of his humanity”.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: MUHAMMAD ABU BAKAR

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PHOTOGRAPHY: QAIS ZUREIKAT

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PHOTOGRAPHY: SAMER ABBAS

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PHOTOGRAPHY: SASA MUTIC


The SZGMC is the embodiment of these ideals, but its activities are not focused solely on the past: the Centre is a vibrant hub of cross-cultural education, research, and humanitarianism, organising professional forums and partnerships with religious institutions that share the Centre’s objectives. Alongside international academic religious centres, the SZGMC represents an invaluable Islamic institute of learning, supporting the printing and translation of the Holy Quran, as well as books, scholarly research, magazines, manuals and audio-visual materials – in short, the creation of an essential library focused on education about Islam. The Centre also holds seminars and lectures on Islamic architecture, Arabic calligraphy and Arabic syntax, and serves to introduce the Grand Mosque to international visitors and UAE residents alike. In his lifetime, Sheikh Zayed promoted a tolerant version of pure Islamic faith, one that was a source of instruction and guidance. He once said, "If people understand Islam properly, they will achieve miracles.” Anyone who has visited the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, worshipped in its prayer halls, or learned about Islam at the SZGMC Library, will surely agree – they have truly witnessed a miracle. The Grand Mosque is the vibrant, vital legacy of a visionary leader who believed that nothing is impossible, and who taught us that the most incredible achievements start from a pure heart. 126 S I M P LY A B U D H A B I


PHOTOGRAPHY: SHANOF MOHAMED

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Simply Photogr aphy

Saleh Awadh Al-Tamimi PO BOX 270 Abu Dhabi UAE Cell: +971 50 577 3555 Email: bwansharo@yahoo.com

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ife can be fleeting at times, and the most beautiful and inspiring moments can pass us by before we have time to truly appreciate them.

A photograph can remedy this by crystallising a single moment or event as a snapshot that can last forever, an image that seems simple at first glance but will carry a story, or a feeling, or even an emotion through the ages to be shared endlessly.

We are proud to introduce our new Simply Photography section, showcasing the most beautiful and memorable photographs from around the world, capturing the human experience and the true beauty of the world through a lens. True understanding of the intricacies of our beautiful, mysterious world can only be captured by the most talented photographers, those who do not see an everyday world, but a cascading sequence of images to be deftly stolen and kept forever. With Simply Photography, you will take part in a grand adventure without ever taking a step, seeing sights so masterfully captured you may feel you have been transported to the very moment the image itself was first taken. Only then will you understand the power of a simple photograph.

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Saleh Awadh Al-Tamimi PO BOX 270 Abu Dhabi UAE Cell: +971 50 577 3555 Email: bwansharo@yahoo.com




Saif Saeed Ghobash Director General Abu Dhabi Tourism & Culture Authority. Email: SGhobash@dctabudhabi.ae


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Murad Osmann https://twitter.com/muradosmann https://www.instagram.com/muradosmann https://www.facebook.com/followmeproject/ Email: murad.osmann@gmail.com

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Murad Osmann https://twitter.com/muradosmann https://www.instagram.com/muradosmann https://www.facebook.com/followmeproject/ Email: murad.osmann@gmail.com

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Ahsan Faridi Inket Designs Ph. No. : +971503769939 PO. BOX : 28175


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S I M PLY J E W E L L E RY B y I va n A l l e g r a n t i

Giampiero Bodino: A Bejewelled Life In Milan, at the breathtaking Villa Mozart, we have a one-to-one conversation with an Italian master of creativity. Designer of countless collections for the world’s most prestigious watch and jewellery brands, and founder of his own eponymous brand that combines haute joallerie savoir faire with dazzling and daring vision—Giampiero Bodino. by Ivan Allegranti

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Giampiero Bodino portrait by Guido Taroni


What are your hopes for the Giampiero Bodino brand this year? I wish for my creations to continue to be loved and purchased by a discerning international clientele. I hope that the Maison will continue to be recognised as an important player in the High Jewellery sector. I’m always striving for improvement and growth. I really want to succeed without changing our business model. I would like for my Maison to be a point of reference for a discreet type of luxury for many more women around the world. You worked for Richemont for 12 years, ghostdesigning jewellery and watches for prestigious brands. What is the biggest change now that you have established your own brand? Freedom. When you create for a Maison you have not founded, you have to take into consideration a different approach, some rules that might be others than yours and a different approach to style. Albeit it is a great honour to support some of the most prestigious Maisons in the world and to help building on their huge heritage, designing jewellery under my name has allowed me to be entirely and completely free to express my vision and creativity. When did you first realise that you wanted to be a jewellery designer and how did you get into the business? I studied architecture in Turin, my hometown, and I started to work at Italdesign, designing cars. During that time, I learnt about design in general and I realised how much I loved creating and inventing new forms. I then knew I could express beauty through my imagination. While I was at Italdesign I met Gianni Bulgari and my destiny changed: I moved to Rome and became a jewellery designer. I always knew I was a designer—one trained but also instinctive. I think I can design anything: a bracelet or a car, a home or a piece of furniture. I do believe that if you have an eye for proportions and the instinct to create what your mind figures, then it does not matter what it is. Designing cars has not shaped my aesthetic per se, rather it has solidified my desire to be a designer and an artist. The shift from cars to jewellery happened because of a lucky encounter. You founded your HQ in the beautiful Villa Mozart in Milan. Why did you choose this place and what are the emotions you want your clients to feel? I wanted a place that would be unmatched in terms of uniqueness, authenticity and originality. This is because I wanted to build a Maison with unusual and unique characteristics and an original business model. In keeping with the foundations that have been laid at Villa Mozart, it is important that the spirit of Italian culture, beauty, uniqueness, authenticity and soul be felt by every client and guest.

You only create one-of-a-kind pieces. Why did you adopt this strategy? The idea was to create a sort of “couture” of jewellery, where every piece is unique and designed around an idea and a particular stone. Important stones do not come in series and high jewellery is by definition ‘one of a kind’. Our objective is to offer originality and uniqueness to women able to appreciate the preciousness of a unique piece. When you start to work on a new unique piece, where does the inspiration come from and how do you approach its creation? All my creations start with me falling in love with a stone. The stone thus becomes the central element of the piece, giving it a profound meaning. I am mainly inspired by the heritage, culture and architecture of my country, Italy. The Renaissance Palazzi, as much as the Mediterranean Sea, or the nature surrounding it, can plant the seed of an idea and a creation in my mind. I need to be surrounded by beauty and I express my idea of beauty through my creations and my art. I draw, I fill notebooks with drawings and sketches. In truth, my ideas are born from a moment’s impulse, from an emotion. These come to me freely. Each of my creations stem from a spontaneous act of creativity. What are the stylistic codes of the Giampiero Bodino haute joallerie Maison? My jewellery is very much designed, because I see it as decoration, an embellishment to the look of the woman who wears it. While architectural decoration is meant to embellish an environment, jewellery enhances a hand, a neck, the personality of the wearer. My designs are timeless, they don’t follow trends, and are supposed to work well with any outfit; the jewel complements a gown but also a white shirt on a pair of black jeans. The stones are precious and very colourful, they are usually chosen for their particularity, shape or colour. And of course, every piece is one of a kind. Is there a particular stone that you tend to use frequently in your pieces, and if so, what is it and what is its attraction? I have a particular love for spinels in various shades of red and I love emeralds. Precious stones have a soul, their clarity, radiance and cut are enchanting and the magic is unleashed by their vivid, deep, luscious colours. I love to find the perfect burning red in a spinel, and I can instantly be inspired by the liquid green of a sapphire. The attraction to a stone is a very personal experience, and that is why I choose all our gems personally. When someone wears your pieces, how do you want them to feel? Beautiful, confident, strong and warm.

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You create transformable necklaces and secret watches—what will be the next creative step? Who knows? I design on impulse when the idea strikes. What I can tell you though, is that I will continue to create marvellous jewels with a timeless and elegant style. Villa Mozart has some of your paintings on display. Could you tell us more about your love of painting? And do you sell your works? I have always tried to keep these two creative worlds of mine separate. However, since they both originate in my head, they collide from time to time. Art allows me to be totally free in my creative process. I am as much passionate about creating collections even if I know they impose more limitations. Once I establish the framework within which to work, I am able to move from one to the other with joy and effortlessly. In October and November, you showcased respectively in London and Milan, 15 portraits shot by photographer Guido Taroni under the title "Beauty is my Favourite Colour". What colour is beauty for you? It’s of course a metaphor but beauty is what feeds my creative world. Behind my desk hangs my painting depicting Lee Miller, a model, actress and photographer who was the inspiring muse of Man Ray. She was the epitome of a strong, intelligent, brave and very talented woman at a time when being a female independent artist was contentious. She never allowed society to define her as model, but she carried on working as a photography reporter for Life Magazine notwithstanding the challenges. For me she represents the ideal blend of beauty, brains and creativity. What are some of your dreams—both in terms of business and personally. I am very lucky because business and private are one in my life. My dream is to never stop sharing moments and experiences with fantastic people I meet, to learn from emotions and shared experiences. I also dream to be able to travel the world and be inspired by new places for ever. What do you think are the key characteristics that unite to create a perfect piece of jewellery? The perfect piece of jewellery conveys holistic emotions. The perfection of its creations resides in creativity and impeccable craft. The perfect jewel also needs a perfect stone, the passion in searching and finding it, its symbolic value that goes way beyond its economic value and the magic it offers.


CHANEL Coco is the lion. Born on 19 August 1883, under the fifth sign of the Zodiac (19 and five, Chanel’s lucky numbers) and under the constellation of the Lion, Gabrielle Chanel was always fascinated by the king of the animals. Being a lion means to have a strong, instinctive and audacious personality and as Mademoiselle once declared “I’m a Leo and, like him, I show my claws to protect myself but, believe me, I suffer more by clawing than by being clawed.”

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The lion was always in Gabrielle’s life. She had a gilt bronze statue of him in her apartment at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris, and symbols of the lion graced her daily paraphernalia such as her scissors or cigarettes. She displayed the lion by engraving it on the buttons of her tailoring and after her, Karl Lagerfeld, for Chanel’s cruise 2009 staged at the Lido of Venice, paid tribute to Mademoiselle, Venice and San Marco square, with his imposing lion sculpture. For the Fall/Winter Haute Couture 2010/11 collection, an 18-metre-high lion clutched a high iridescent pearl under his front paw. Again in 2013, Chanel’s team created a high jewellery collection devoted to king of the jungle. Today in 2018, Chanel presents “L’Esprit du Lion” Haute Joallerie collection, a transcendental collection devoted to Gabrielle’s spirit animal. The collection is composed of 53 high jewellery pieces inspired by the lion and its representations found in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment: the most intimate place for Mademoiselle. Yellow or white gold, diamonds, pearls, sapphires, beryls and imperial topazes are the materials used for this high jewellery collection that fascinates for its majestic boldness and fluidity. All the pieces evoke the lion’s characteristics as a spirit animal: protective, intuitive and commanding and the pieces are dazzling, passionate and timeless. A gold chain bracelet encrusted with 117 brilliant-cut diamonds, a transformable necklace in 18-carat yellow gold set with an octagon-cut orange topaz of 29.65 carats with a roundcut diamond under the Lion’s paw, with a further 942 brilliant-cut diamonds, an astonishing necklace in 18-carat yellow gold set with 32 oval-cut yellow beryls for a total weight of 111.18 carats and 454 brilliant-cut diamonds, plus a secret watch in 18-carat white gold set with one yellow carved-cut beryl of 37.41 carats and 541 brilliant-cut diamonds, are all part of this huge high jewellery collection. The most precious piece of all is the Legendary necklace, a one-of-a-kind transformable necklace in 18-carat white and yellow gold set with more than 1,200 diamonds and one cushion-cut fancy intense yellow diamond of 30.19 carats. Here, the strength and charisma of the Leo is shown in all its beauty, because the lion is the spirit of Chanel.

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CHAUMET I

conic jewellery Maison Chaumet christened its latest high jewellery collection “Les Mondes de Chaumet.” Presented in January during Paris haute couture week, the collection will also journey around the world with two other stops that we will discover first in June and then in July. So, the entire collection’s presentation will be divided into three different moments: This first part of the collection is called “Promenades Imperiales” and it’s a tribute to Imperial Russia, Siberia, the snow and the sky of the immense steppe. To make this possible, the Maison used white pure diamonds, blue Ceylon sapphires and Padparadscha sapphires from Ceylon and Madagascar. The skilful hands of Chaumet’s artisans created an invisible setting with lace-like motifs that recall snowflakes and traditional Russian decorations. The reason why they used only these two precious stones is that the

Ceylon sapphire recalled the vast beauty of the Siberian horizon, while the Padparadcha sapphires evokes the infinite and bright colours of the skies. The most precious piece of the collection is a transformable necklace in white and pink gold, set with a pear-shaped “sunset colour” Padparadscha sapphire weighing 16.31 carats from Ceylon, a cabochon-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 9.03 carats, also from Ceylon, an oval-cut D VVS1 diamond weighing 1.13 carats, a brilliant-cut D VVS2 diamond weighing 0.45 carats, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds. Exquisite and perfect to wear on a suit are two brooches – the first in white gold, set with a cushion-cut sapphire weighing 2.45 carats and the second featuring a Madagascar Padparadscha weighing 1.92 carats.

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DIOR

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ersailles, act III. After Versailles by Night in 2016 and Versailles gardens, Victoire de Castellane, Dior’s jewellery creative director, invites us to discover an unseen Versailles: Versailles pieces secrètes (Versailles secret places). Secret passages, hidden boudoirs, rooms and corridors, Versailles secret places brings us into the palace’s “behind the scenes”, the world in which France’s secrets were kept alive. The entire collection is characterised by its mechanical jewels that open up or hide small secrets. “I wanted to use chiaroscuro stones in shades of faded rose, reds on verging on purple, iridescent moonstones and more intense sky blues,” explained Castellane, adding, “the colours themselves seem a little mysterious, like antique silks.” Dior uses unusual central stones and playful and varied opening systems that hide symbols and pay tribute to jewellery as love tokens and secret charms. Cocktail rings, necklaces and bracelets are part of this collection in which the most precious piece is the “Vanité Emeraude” necklace in yellow and white gold, diamonds, an astonishing emerald and colour-change garnets. Rose gold, yellow gold, rubellite and diamonds are used for the Cachette cocktail ring and rose gold, diamonds and green beryl adorn the Volupte ring. What emerges from Victoire de Castellane’s work is that she is able to encapsulate the spirit of the theme she approaches in her jewellery. Admiring Dior’s latest haute joallerie collection transports the imagination to Versailles secret world, in which beauty, mysteries and love are mounted on gold and engraved or made of opals, spinels, diamonds, emeralds and rubellite.

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CHOPARD

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wiss high jewellery Maison Chopard devotes its latest haute joallerie collection to the beauty of stones and the preciousness of high jewellery, entitling it “Precious Chopard.� Diamond lacework mixed with precious coloured stones like rubies, tanzanite, sapphires and emeralds are the key to this collection, which draws inspiration from the quintessence of classic jewellery. Traditional craftsmanship, opulent designs, the sense of light and motion all give to the pieces an impression of bold and feminine elegance, Caroline Scheufele’s creative signature. Here the true protagonists are the stones, highlighted by the gold patterns and the gem-setting that reveals an architectural inspiration, marking a subtle line between the world of Haute Couture and the one of High Jewellery. Just some of the pieces in this collection that stuns for its dazzling spirit, include a one-of-a-kind transformable 18-carat white gold necklace set with a pear-cut emerald flanked by six more pear-cut emeralds totalling 30.9 carats, alongside pear-cut diamonds, marquise-cut diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds, an 18-carat white gold ring set with a seven carat pear-cut emerald and diamonds, an 18-carat white gold necklace set with heart-cut rubies and diamonds and an 18-carat white gold watch set entirely with sapphires and diamonds and powered by an automatic movement.

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THE R OY A L J H ARO K A R I NG

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his stunning ring is part of the wonderful ‘Breakfast in Jaipur’ collection. The name of the collection was inspired by the elegance expressed in the movie “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” starring the magnificent Audrey Hepburn, who embodied femininity and the style of the 60s. The classic volumes of the curves and the rare precious gemstones in contrasting colours reminds us of the actress’s elegance and grace. The geometrical and linear art deco style of the pieces evokes the early jewellery of one of the world’s most famous brands. The intricate details of the galleries together with the exquisite colour combinations in matching or contrasting shades of the gemstones in the ear rings and rings are, however, closer to the details of certain Persian Moghul motifs. The collection also recalls the incredible parures of multiple precious stones and rose-cut diamonds which were created by the biggest French Maisons in the 1920s and 30s exclusively for the Maharaja of Jaipur.

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THE QAJ AR PRI D E CUF F L INKS

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he beautiful colours and design of the Qajar Pride cufflinks feature Arabesque motifs, the complex ornamental decoration comprising geometrical elements inspired by architecture and certain tenets of Arabic script.

For over 120 years (1794-1925) the Qajar dynasty dominated the Persian Empire and it was a golden era for arts and crafts. These cufflinks are dedicated to the higher standards of architecture and decoration reached under their kingdom in Iran and especially to the Panj Kāse – ‘five concaved’ design. These fancy multi-coloured gem-encrusted cufflinks have an ingenious hidden system of electricity which allows the changing colour and light to interact with the gemstones at different speeds. They will bestow a uniquely stylish and artistic touch to any ensemble.

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S I M PLY T I M E

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2018 was distinguished not only by some spectacular new watch releases, but also for a renewed sense of confidence in the luxury watchmaking industry. By Nick Rice

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he 28th edition of SIHH saw six prestigious brands make a welcome entrance: Hermès, Armin Strom, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, DeWitt, élégante by F.P. Journe and Romain Gauthier. The total number of exhibitors is now 35, comprising 18 historic Maisons and 17 brands in the Carré des Horlogers.

Fabienne Lupo, The Director of the SIHH, says, “We had almost 20,000 people attending the show over five days. We are very happy with the figures, including the hashtag #SIHH2018. We have a great engagement regarding digital... with more than 400,000 posts. We wanted to be more connected and more digital and have a big resonance in the world.” Affordability and innovation were key themes and it also saw the famously traditional industry take a bold step towards a digital future. Lupo adds, “We wanted to be more open to the public and the end customers and to the clients and to digital media. This edition was a first step in this orientation and of course we want to go further. Seeing the success of this first step I’m sure we will have more ideas for 2019.” We select some of the notable novelties from a wealth of stunning new watches launched at SIHH.


The Year of Zayed: Horologically Honoring the Memory of the UAE’s Beloved Leader

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imply Abu Dhabi and German watchmaker ChronoSeven pay tribute to the memory of the late, great Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, founder of the United Arab Emirates, in the declared Year of Zayed with a unique wristwatch. Elizabeth Doerr brings you the story of this one-of-a-kind timepiece’s inspiration and the attributes that make it so incredible. His Highness Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, reverently known as Baba Zayed to his people, is the founder of the United Arab Emirates. Born in 1918, he was the ruler of Abu Dhabi since 1966 and president of the United Arab Emirates upon its formation in 1971 until his death in 2004. Learning about the way of his people’s life as a young man, he went into the desert with Bedouin tribesmen, where he studied falconry. His vision and mandate upon becoming ruler was to develop his Emirate as quickly as possible; the export of oil starting in the 1960s allowed him to begin putting his plans for schools, housing, hospitals, and roads into practice.

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His clear philosophy endeared him to the rulers of the six other Emirates, who elected him as president of the UAE every five years until his passing. His rule was one of consensus, tolerance, and humanitarianism. Sheikh Zayed passed away in 2004, leaving a legacy of philanthropy and harmony as well as a clear path for Abu Dhabi. A Year of Zayed has been declared by the current president of the UAE, Sheikh Khalifa, to mark the century since the birth of the country’s founding father. The Year of Zayed’s aim is to highlight the great man’s role in establishing the federation as well as his regional and international successes. “The Year of Zayed is a great national occasion when we will proudly share memories of the life of the Founding Father, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, and his gift to us of deeply rooted values, principles, and traditions that have become part of our Emirati identity,” Sheikh Khalifa said, calling for making 2018 a year of achievements, initiatives, events, and programs that highlight Zayed’s vision and leadership.


What better way to celebrate the great man than to create a work of art in his honor? And that is just what Arnie Hira and Jordana Lynch of Simply Abu Dhabi magazine and designer Georg Bartkowiak of ChronoSeven have done. The new watch they have created is a unique edition of 2,018 timepieces never to be reproduced in this form whose beauty, artistry, and design honor the late, great Sheikh Zayed. The limited edition number honors the one-hundredth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed’s birth date. The matte rhodium-plated grey dial, embellished with historically inclined details, evokes great emotion in the observer thanks to the interplay of the matte background and the glossy finish of the applied elements, in particular the lasercut subdial rings available in black or white, one of which contains the hours, minutes and seconds. The hour markers found here were designed in a culturally Arabic way and match the hour and minute hands in the same color. The watch is available in two color schemes: grey background with white applied subdial rings and rose-colored printing, calligraphic appliqué, and hands or grey background with black applied subdial rings, white printing, silvery rhodium-colored calligraphic appliqué, and white hands. The subdial at 7 o’clock containing a likeness of His Highness Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan is executed in solid threedimensionally printed silver as if it were a bust or statue. This technique was chosen to create the likeness in order to ensure the most precise facial details; the appliqué with three different galvanically applied colors was hand-finished by a master goldsmith before being added by hand to the dial. Its positioning at 7 o’clock represents the seven states of the United Arab Emirates, of which Sheikh Zayed was the literal and spiritual father. The frame surrounding Sheikh Zayed’s likeness contains three dates in addition to his full name: 1918 (the year of his birth); 1971 (the year of the United Arab Emirates’ founding); and 2004 (the year of his passing). The watch’s dial is altogether discreet in appearance with only a little color punctuating the otherwise black, rose, white, and gray hues that dominate: the second hand is green, while the hour and minute hands are white or rose-colored depending on the version. The loving face of His Highness Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan brings the most color to the decorative surface – as it should. Another very beautiful detail is the Arabic calligraphy by artist Majid Alyousef on the left side of the dial, which has been laser-cut in a high-tech manner, high-polished for a glossy, contrasting glow, and applied to the dial by hand. The elegantly curving calligraphy forms the single word “Emirates” in Arabic. This is joined by decorative relief printed elements: a floral design printed in white ceramics, a silvercolored frame around the perimeter of the dial, and a white ceramic-printed palm tree symbol in the center of the time subdial. All of these elements were inspired by the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, a majestic structure located at the entrance of Abu Dhabi City Island. The exalted structure comprising four minarets and 82 domes includes the fusion of Mamluk, Ottoman, and Fatimid styles so as to represent the entirety of the diverse Islamic world. The watch’s solid stainless steel 45 mm German-made case is elegantly understated; steel represents the metalized version of the white color that also stands also for understated inner value in Arabic culture. The case, outfitted with shorter lugs to make it easily wearable for every size wrist, also continues the

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play of matte and high polish on all sides. And the screw-down case back offers another visual treat nestled below a scratchproof sapphire crystal: a three-dimensional matte-andpolished falcon – Sheikh Zayed’s nickname was “the Desert Falcon” – designed by Alyousef to offer the calligraphic Arabic spelling of the words “Zayed Al Khair,” a loving representation meaning “Zayed the Benevolent.” The case’s off-center crown position matches the off-center dial design, making for a uniform and harmonious complete look. Calligraphy and type artist Alyousef, who lives in Dubai, has been practicing Arabic calligraphy for more than 25 years. His work is intricate but also contains some experimental composition, particularly in the stylization of the Arabic alphabet. As it was the Bauhaus school of design that has significantly influenced Alyousef’s work, it makes a great deal of sense for him to have contributed to this German coproduction. His work addresses the intersection between language and the abstract. Red, green, white, and black are the colors of the United Arab Emirates, evidenced by the common flag adopted on December 2, 1971 to symbolize Arabian unity. Originally, each of the seven Emirates had a plain red flag representing allegiance to the Islamic prophet Muhammad; today the red also stands for bravery and strength. White stands for peace and honesty, while green embodies hope, joy, and love. Black indicates strength of mind. Therefore, the watch’s smooth black or white leather strap also features green and red stitching. It is outfitted with a sweat-resistant inner lining of the type that is also used by the high-end shoe industry. The mechanical heart of this timepiece reliably beats thanks to an elegant, modern Swiss movement that has been especially modified for this watch to position the time display in an offcenter manner, thereby increasing the elegant overall design of the watch. This double subdial design, turned on its side about 30 degrees off center, also looks quite like an infinity sign, which aside from its mathematical meaning also symbolizes eternity and everlasting love. The special-edition watch dedicated to the father of the United Arab Emirates is rich with details relating to his life and the country he so thoughtfully built on a core belief system of tolerance and coexistence. "Sheikh Zayed has instilled in us the willpower and determination to challenge and achieve the impossible," said Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed, crown prince of Abu Dhabi and deputy supreme commander of the UAE’s armed forces, "This is why we are always convinced that we are capable of being pioneers and to become one of the best countries in the world. He inspired us to see his way to the future, to follow in his footsteps with confidence and insight, and to consolidate the gains and achievements. "He always emphasized that man is the most essential element of progress and that the most precious wealth of this country is its people, who we must take care of well. There is no use for money without men. This is the philosophy that drives the process of comprehensive and sustainable development of this country. The best way to celebrate the Year of Zayed would be by spreading Zayed's glorious human and cultural legacy via all the people of the UAE, to continue his inspirational and noble values, and introduce these ideals to new generations."


Richard Mille RM 50-01 Pablo Mac Donough

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ichard Mille only launched one new watch this year, but when you’re Richard Mille, one timepiece is enough—such is the extreme technological accomplishment and groundbreaking innovation housed in each new watch from the unique watchmaker. The RM 50-01 Pablo Mac Donough, is a new tourbillon piece that looks more conventional than the original RM 053, but has been made with some amazing materials and is powered by an incredibly beautiful and advanced movement. The original—and as the watchmaker freely admits, “absurd”—idea behind the RM 053, was to have one of the world’s greatest polo champions, Pablo Mac Donough, wear a tourbillon calibre timepiece in competition. Shock is the very last thing you want to expose a tourbillon movement to, so to place one is the intensely combative and high-impact sport of polo is simply an incongruous notion… it’s asking for trouble. But Richard Mille relishes a challenge and so the mission began. “Polo is a dangerous sport, and hard knocks are a regular occurrence. It’s a very elegant game, but also a contact sport,’ Mille explains. “Given that Pablo has sustained a large number of fractures in the course of his career, I asked our teams to come up with a watch that could resist the many types of shocks arising in a polo match, whilst leaving the movement visible.”

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The answer is a cable-suspended movement. The atypical architecture of this design required the creation of two separate baseplates. The first, or ‘peripheral’ baseplate, is fixed to the case and supports the tensioner mechanisms. The second, known as the ‘central’ baseplate, is linked to the peripheral baseplate by cables and incorporates the wheels comprising the calibre as well as the winding mechanism. The central baseplate rests, like a spider in the middle of its web, on two braided steel cables just 0.27mm in diameter. These cables, sketching a three-dimensional structure in their path through 10 pulleys, are anchored by four tensioners. The watchmaker is responsible for tensioning the cables by rotating a spline screw located at the centre of each tensioner. By ensuring an even distribution of tension, this pulley system guarantees perfect balance of the whole mechanism. The suspended movement and the use of grade 5 titanium (double baseplate and bridges) contribute increased stiffness, while ensuring smooth functioning of the going train and optimal shock protection. The RM 53-01 Tourbillon case is machined in Carbon TPT®, an immensely durable and protective material that would hold up in a polo match. However, traditional sapphire watch glass was not going to be viable. One straight smash with a polo mallet would be sufficient to break the standard glass. Accordingly, Richard Mille’s engineers collaborated with Stettler—a worldrenowned sapphire specialist—and took inspiration from current practices in the automotive realm to produce a laminated glass. Use of this glass, composed of two sheets of sapphire glass separated by a thin Polyvinyl film, constitutes a horological first. In the face of the strong shockwave produced by a blow from a mallet, the glass will crack, but without ever shattering. With anti-reflective and UV coatings, this glass, which preserves the movement from the external environment, is patented exclusively to Richard Mille. The RM 5301 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough is a limited edition of 30 pieces in Carbon TPT®.

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A. Lange & Söhne 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”

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alter Lange was the driving force behind the resurrection of A. Lange & Söhne in 1990. World-class precision watchmaking was restored to the German town of Glashütte. On the morning of the second SIHH day in 2017, news that Walter Lange—the Chairman of A. Lange & Söhne and the great-grandson of the company’s founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange—had died aged 92, shocked the world of watchmaking. The sad news spread rapidly as visitors spontaneously paid their respects to the pioneer of horology at the Lange stand. Asked at the time how he intended to salute Walter Lange, Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid replied: “The best way to honour Walter Lange is to assure the continuity and the ongoing development of the company that he founded—in the way that he would have envisioned it.” Now, with the 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”, A. Lange & Söhne is proving that a watch is capable of reflecting the intention and personality of a founder. The 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange” with a black enamel dial and a steel case will be produced only once. This makes it as unique as the man whose name it bears. Key to the watch is the jumping seconds complication. This was one of Walter Lange’s favourite technical features because it embodies the puristic notion of precision watchmaking, while at the same time being a piece of family history. It does not divide the second into a number of steps depending on the balance frequency, but instead treats it as a coherent unit of time.

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A pusher at 2 o’clock starts and stops the sweep seconds hand. The idea dates back to an invention by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1867; in an advanced configuration developed by his son Richard, it was granted one of Germany’s first patents in 1877. Lange’s “one-second movement with a jumping hand” was implemented for

the first time in a masterpiece built by his second son, Emil, Walter Lange’s grandfather. Overall, more than 300 pocket watches with this function were crafted. Just like the 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”, they were endowed with a separate seconds subdial. The black enamel dial and a steel case of the homage watch also reflect the eminent heritage of the Saxon watchmaking dynasty. The watch is powered by the calibre L1924, a new movement named after Walter’s birth year. The movement comprises a total of 253 total components and it’s decorated and assembled by hand, with untreated German silver for the plates and bridges and a handengraved balance cock. Unsurprisingly, the 1815 Homage to Walter Lange is a limited edition, with 145 pieces in white gold, 90 in pink gold, and 27 in yellow gold, with all three models retailing for around $58,200. The 145 represents the time between the company’s founding date and when Walter Lange resurrected A. Lange & Söhne in 1990, the 90 in pink gold specifically refers to that all important year, and 27 is the years between that date and the unveiling of the watch on December 7, 2017. A fourth limited edition—a stunning piece in stainless steel with a black enamel dial—is a piece unique that will be auctioned for charity sometime this year. It is guaranteed to raise a princely sum for a worthwhile cause. As well as this momentous watch that honours Walter Lange, A. Lange & Söhne also launched the extraordinary new Triple Split: one of the most advanced mechanical chronographs ever developed, it splits seconds, minutes and hours, permitting the wearer to record and compare two times simultaneously for up to 12 hours. It’s a limited piece of 100 pieces priced at $147,000.


Audemars Piguet

Frosted Gold Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

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here is a sadly all-too-common misperception that ladies’ watches should be more about the gems, the diamonds and the precious metals, and less about the complexity and micro-engineered beauty of the movement. Audemars Piguet dispense with any doubts and with the Frosted Gold Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked offers both sparkling attraction and a world-class calibre at the heart of the watch.

The Double Balance Wheel Openworked was a big hit at SIHH 2016 with its new calibre and a hand-finished, openworked double balance wheel mechanism. It was a 41mm case in either rose gold or stainless steel, now the case is in white gold and is a more diminutive 37mm. The calibre 3132 has two balance wheels and two hairsprings oscillating together on the same axis, theoretically cancelling out each other’s rate errors and resulting in a timepiece that is more accurate. The frosting on the white gold and on the integrated Royal Oak bracelet is thanks to a collaboration with Florentine jewellery designer Carolina Bucci. The historical technique, known as the Florentine method, involves making thousands of tiny indentations in order to make the gold shimmer and sparkle. The 18-carat white gold Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Frosted Gold Openworked is priced at $76,000. There is also a rose gold version with a case that is not frosted priced at $68,500. This gorgeous ladies’ timepiece is a powerful alliance of aesthetics, precision and balance—all brought together in the patented geometry of the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked. The 3132 mechanism is visible from both sides of the watch, refreshingly placing the complex movement front and centre for the eyes of the customer.

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Edouard Bovet Tourbillon T he newest timepiece from Bovet is something of a mouthful when it comes to the title—it’s the 10-Day Triple Time Zone Flying Tourbillon with Hemispherical Earth Maps and Reversed HandFitting, 3 Times Patented. If it needs a long name that’s because it’s incredibly, almost inconceivably complex, and a true work of art.

To provide some historical background of the Maison before we admire the timepiece, Bovet officially began on 1 May 1822, but its destiny was set in motion by a major event, four years earlier in 1818—two centuries ago. Three watchmakers—Frédéric, Alphonse and Edouard Bovet—left their home village of Fleurier in 1814, bound for London, to develop their sales skills. There, Edouard Bovet displayed remarkable talent combined with a visionary mind. This far-sightedness led him to board the Orwell, a ship belonging to the East India Company, on April 20, 1818 for a four-month odyssey that took him all the way to Guangzhou. He arrived in the Chinese city as a trailblazer on August 16 the same year, carrying four timepieces whose technical and aesthetic qualities were hitherto unseen. A Chinese collector bought the four pieces for 10,000 Swiss francs each, the equivalent of 1,000,000 Swiss francs today. The enthusiasm for the Bovet brothers’ watchmaking quickly reached the Emperor, and before long their work had captivated the nation. The impact was such that Bovet (pronounced Bo-Wei) became synonymous with high-end watches in the everyday Chinese language. To mark the bicentenary of this key event in the brand’s rich history, Pascal Raffy and the craftsmen in his manufactures have chosen to design and make a timepiece dedicated to travel. Raffy is himself a collector of fine watches both old and new, and therefore has a solid understanding of the expectations of fellow collectors. It is as a collector and the owner of Bovet that he has presided over the development and fine-tuning of all of the Maison’s timepieces ever since he acquired it in 2001.

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The Edouard Bovet Tourbillon is powered by a single barrel that ensures its impressive autonomy of over ten days, despite its many complications and 472 components. Using this same power, three different time zones can be displayed based on an entirely original configuration that offers complete and intuitive readability, with the local time zone occupying the centre of the timepiece. In addition to the hour and minute hands, a dome indicates the day-night cycle. This dome turns anti-clockwise to represent reality as closely as possible, with the sun rising in the east and setting in the west. Each of the two additional times displayed correspond to any one of the earth’s 24 time zones, set according to the user's preference. Each window displays the name of the chosen city and the time in this same zone via a hand that moves over a 24-hour dial. This hand follows the contour of a hemispherical dome representing the Earth and naturally passes over the meridian of the chosen time zone. It would be possible to write a short book about the timepiece, but for space reasons, suffice it to say that it is an astounding creation. The Edouard Bovet Tourbillon is housed in the emblematic Amadeo convertible case. Patented in 2010, the Amadeo system transforms the timepiece into a reversible wristwatch, a table clock, or a pocket watch without the use of any tools. Only sixty movements will leave Bovet’s workshops, ensuring a level of exclusivity that reflects the excellence of this historic timepiece.

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H

. Moser & Cie. have carved out an impressive position in the luxury watchmaking world in recent years—garnering a reputation for irreverence, boldness and an increasing respect for creating original, distinctive and exceptional quality timepieces. The Schaffhausen-based Manufacture has given the classic watchmaking complication of the tourbillon a memorable and arresting pride of place on a watch that is stunningly beautiful for its simplicity. The minimalist approach typical of H. Moser & Cie. sees a stripped-down dial that consists of the brand's signature fumé, two blued hands, and at 6 o'clock, a one minute flying tourbillon produced in module form. The absence of both logo and indices on the dial allows the flying tourbillon to fill the spotlight and shine at centre stage. It appears to float weightlessly. The hours and minutes hands are faceted and blued, as is the tradition. The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept is encased in steel; a bold choice for an equally bold model. H. Moser & Cie., true to their philosophy, dares to mix styles by providing their prestigious Tourbillon with a metal casing. The dial colour, that famous fumé which has become the H. Moser signature, extends in subtle nuances in gradually deepening shades, with the different shades emphasised by the ‘sunburst’ pattern. Refocusing the debate on genuine luxury, striking and distinctive even without a logo, H. Moser & Cie. has put the product firmly in the spotlight. Behind the skeleton bridge of the minute tourbillon is the latest addition to movements designed, developed and produced by H. Moser & Cie.; the HMC 804 selfwinding calibre. Powering this movement with a three-day power reserve, the oscillating weight transfers the energy to the barrel via a bi-directional pawl winding system which reduces the time required to fully wind the watch. The oscillating weight is skeletonised to reveal the mechanism beneath. A marvel of ingenuity, this movement is equipped with a double-flat hairspring designed and produced in-house. Thanks to this pair of matched hairsprings, the movement of the point of gravity on each spring when it expands is corrected, significantly improving accuracy and isochronism in continual pursuit of perfection. In addition, the paired hairsprings also reduce the effect of friction normally experienced with a single hairspring, improving isochronism. Finally, the tourbillon's unique design makes it an interchangeable module, assembled and regulated independently of the movement via a simple plug and play system which allows easy servicing. The result is a tourbillon better adapted to the needs of early 21stcentury users. The unmistakeable H. Moser style of irreverent Haute Horlogerie.

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GMT Earth

Greubel Forsey

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obert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have built up a peerless reputation for creating some of the most technically ambitious and mind-bogglingly complex watches ever constructed. With the new GMT Earth they continue to build on their already solid legacy. The challenge they posed for themselves this time? How to offer a comprehensive, three-dimensional view of the terrestrial globe, from the North to the South Poles. For the GMT Earth they have approached the architecture from a different angle to give the movement and the case a more prominent role.

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The watch bestows an impressive 360° view of planet Earth all the way from the North to the South Pole. This technical feat was achieved by an original movement architecture in relation to the case shape and dimensions. Revealing the entire terrestrial globe required complex application of sapphire crystal, a skill which Greubel Forsey has acquired over many years of research and utilisation. Greubel Forsey say, “The globe is not the only three-dimensional element in this timepiece—it’s a characteristic that features at every level. The threedimensionality first appears at the highest point of the dial, with the hour, minute and small seconds indications. Then the gaze glides gently across the GMT indication with its triangular red hand, followed by the power reserve indication displayed by a long, slender hand. Finally, our eyes come to rest on the lowest part of the dial, which shows the globe alongside the Tourbillon 24 Secondes, Greubel Forsey’s 3rd pivotal invention.” The GMT Earth provides a clear view of three time zones simultaneously to within a quarter of an hour. Furthermore, on the movement side of the timepiece, 24 time zones are displayed with the summer and winter times to complement the universal time indicated by the terrestrial globe. The proportions of the case were constructed to accommodate the highdomed sapphire crystal bezel and the special artistry on the caseband. The characteristic lateral plates bearing engraved inscriptions that encapsulate the key values of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey decorate the case body. This stunning white gold edition is limited to 33 pieces priced at approximately US$657,000.

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IWC Schaffhausen

The Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”

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IHH 2018 was a momentous year for the IWC Schaffhausen. The prestigious Swiss watchmaker marked its 150th anniversary and launched a spectacular collection of watches to mark the historical milestone with the Jubilee Collection, comprising 27 limited-edition watches from different watch families such as Portofino, Pilot’s Watches and Da Vinci. As part of the spoils, IWC unveiled five limited-edition Portugieser wristwatches. The Portugieser ConstantForce Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” is one of the most technically sophisticated watches in the collection and combines a constant-force tourbillon with a simple moon-phase display for the very first time.

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” brings a perpetual calendar together with a tourbillon on the dial for the first time ever. IWC is also launching a Portugieser with a perpetual calendar in the design of the Jubilee collection and fitting the Portugieser Chronograph with an IWC-manufactured calibre. An anniversary edition of the Portugieser Hand-Wound is also being launched for fans of hand-wound watches. The five new limited-edition Portugieser watches underscores IWC’s Haute Horlogerie expertise in its anniversary year. All timepieces feature the design of the Jubilee collection with the distinguishing dials produced using a complex lacquering process in white or blue.

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As already mentioned, the Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” is the technical highlight of the Jubilee collection. A total of 15 watches will be made for each model: platinum with a white-lacquered finish dial and blued hands, and platinum with a bluelacquered finish dial and rhodium-plated hands. For the first time, the new IWC-manufactured handwound 94805 calibre with a power reserve of 96 hours combines a constant-force tourbillon with a simple moon-phase display that only needs to be adjusted by 1 day after 577.5 years. The patented constant-force mechanism transmits completely even impulses to the escape wheel. In conjunction with the tourbillon, which compensates for the negative influences of gravity on the watch’s oscillating system, this allows for an exceptionally high level of precision. The final price for the Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition will be around $250,000.

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Cartier Santos Collection A

lbert Santos Dumont is a celebrated figurehead of modern aeronautic engineering. He not only piloted the first hot-air balloon flights in 1897, he also invented the predecessor of the aeroplane, La Demoiselle, and designed no less than 22 other flying machines, from the airship to the helicopter, monoplane and biplane. Dumont was a way ahead of his time in so many respects—preempting today’s open source model, he made his drawings available to other aviators in the interests of research and his numerous drawings and designs were of great service to engineers. When Dumont met Cartier, history was in the making. According to Cartier, Dumont met Louis Cartier in 1900 and their ensuing friendship was a catalyst for progress. In 1901, the aviator complained of his difficulty checking the time on his pocket watch while flying. Three years later Louis Cartier revolutionised watchmaking by inventing the first purpose-designed modern wristwatch for Santos-Dumont. “Created in 1904, the wristwatch was the product of

experimentation by two visionaries and friends, Louis Cartier and Alberto Santos Dumont. Their respective discoveries and projects were inspired by movement. They were to dictate new behaviours and a relationship with the time that ushered in the modern age.” The new Santos de Cartier watch is a transformation of a watchmaking classic. The new timepieces perpetuate that same spirit, style and hunger for progress. The calibre 1847 MC features anti-magnetic nickel phosphorus components in the escapement and movement mechanisms, as well as a shield made from a paramagnetic alloy, rendering the calibre effectively resistant to the powerful magnetic fields a watch may be exposed to in everyday life. The original strap of the Santos de Cartier was in leather, but the evolution continues and sees a range of available options, including steel, gold, calfskin or alligator skin, and all versions are interchangeable thanks to the Cartier QuickSwitch system hidden under the strap. This concealed mechanism blends into the structure of the case and, to activate the system, the wearer simply presses the 218 S I M P LY A B U D H A B I

mechanism. Another cutting-edge feature is the SmartLink selffitting technology, which adjusts the length of the metal bracelet to the nearest link without the use of a tool. At the touch of a button located on each SmartLink, the attachment bar is unlatched and one of the brushed metal links with screws can be added or removed from the watch. The rejuvenation of this iconic piece is warmly welcomed by those who love classic timepieces with unwavering appeal. The rounded square design and screw-set bezel distinguish it immediately, and there are now two sizes: medium and large, with a date display on the large model only. It’s available in pink gold, yellow gold, and two-tone steel and yellow gold. There is also a stainless steel version and an eye-catching large skeletonised version. At the heart of the icon is the 1847 MC automatic calibre with a 42-hour power reserve. In updating this timepiece, the Cartier design studios have honed in on comfort, intelligent proportions and respect for the Santos aesthetic.



Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding Steel


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ne of the key themes at SIHH this year was value for money and affordable timepieces. Perhaps this significant trend has arisen in the face of recent instability in the watchmaking industry, but whatever the trigger, it is refreshing to see lots of top-flight luxury brands presenting stunning watches at reasonable prices. One of the world’s oldest watchmaker’s, Vacheron Constantin created something of a hullaballoo at SIHH with the launch of the FiftySix collection. The FiftySix Self-Winding model is the most-affordable timepiece ever released by Vacheron Constantin, priced at $11,700. Versatile in steel, this sophisticated-looking watch is understated enough to be worn as a casual daily watch and yet would look equally striking worn with formal evening wear. The automatic calibre 1326 does not qualify as entirely created ‘in-house’ as it is made by Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier and finished, assembled, and regulated by Vacheron Constantin, but at that unprecedented entry level price (almost half the usual cost of a Vacheron Constantin) this will not deter a flood of new customers. The design takes inspiration from one of the brand’s heritage pieces, the ref. 6073 watch originally released in 1956. This modern interpretation of this iconic reference is certain to set hearts fluttering in the circles of collectors and connoisseurs. There is a definite sense of evolution—both in spirit as well as in substance—between the 6073 model presented in 1956 and the new FiftySix collection. A number of 1950s characteristics are incorporated into this contemporary heir, such as the Maltese cross— the emblem of the Manufacture—seen in the construction of the lugs. More than 260 years of perpetually renewed efforts entirely directed towards attaining the highest standards of quality make this emblem a true symbol of horological excellence. This instantly recognisable shape is certain to attract Vacheron Constantin devotees and discerning enthusiasts alike.


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The Hermès Carré H

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ermès has invited the talents of the acclaimed furniture designer Marc Berthier to once again cast some design magic over the Carré H watch, which he first created for the French fashion giant back in 2010. When Hermès partners with designers of global repute the results are beautifully considered, and this update is no exception. The brand says, “Hermès creates objects born of craftsmanship that revisits existing uses. Under its impetus, exacting knowhow combines with creative freedom. Beyond their functional role, Hermès objects make everyday life their playground, each instant a uniquely special moment, and lightness a cardinal virtue. For Hermès, time is also an object. It is embraced with open arms or taken by the hand in a spirit of joyful companionship. The house dares to offer a time designed to open up interludes and create spaces for recreation.” One of the signature changes for this watch is the numerals, all of which are two digits, in a new typeface unique to this watch. The new models of the Carré H keep the basic shape but the size has been increased from 36.5mm x 36.5mm to a more medium pitched 38mm x 38mm. The grey and black dials feature cross hatch guilloché and the flash of colour on the distinctive seconds hands provides a playful touch. The Vaucher (owned by Hermès) calibre H1912 automatic movement carries ‘H’ decoration on the plates, bridges, and rotor. The case material has been changed from titanium to stainless steel and it’s mounted on Hermès own natural or black Barénia calfskin leather straps. The original Carré H was $15,000, but likely in a bid to attract a more mainstream client and in line with the theme of affordability that is notable in the industry at the moment, the price is almost halved at $7,725.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection J

aeger-LeCoultre is an exceptional Maison that commands respect and admiration throughout the luxury watchmaking industry. They are the watchmaker’s watch brand. They are universally known for iconic pieces such as the Reverso, and other elegant dress watches—think Master Ultra-Thin collection—but sports collections? That is not an area that is normally associated with this revered brand. Until now that is. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection makes a dynamic assertion that JLC can, and in fact has always been capable of making world-class sports watches. The collection consists of five different models, of which one model—the Polaris Memovox—is a tribute to the model from 1968 and is a limited series of 1,000 pieces only. The other four models—Automatic, Date, Chronograph and Chronograph Worldtime—are not limited and are available on different sort of straps, including a new metal strap developed this year. The Memovox Deep Sea first emerged in 1959 with the notable precedent of being the first dive watch with an alarm. A mechanical alarm function—a signature complication of all Memovox watches—was used to remind the diver when to return to the surface. The watch was equipped with the calibre 815, the first movement to combine the self-winding capacity with the alarm function. Then in 1965 the Memovox Polaris was born. It immediately stood out thanks to its three crowns—one for the movement, one for the alarm, one for the inner bezel—and for its crisp, clean and now iconic dial. It was powered by the calibre 825 and when it was updated in 1968 that is the release which became world famous.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection channels the best of the Grande Maison’s watchmaking tradition and its attention to detail, while creating a contemporary, sporty yet elegant timepiece, with a vintage touch. The dial architecture is distinctive, combining a mixture of finishings on three concentric circles: a Memovox Polaris-inspired centre with a sunray finish, graining on the outer circle with the hours and minutes, and an opaline finish on the rotating inner bezel. The Jaeger-LeCoultre logo is applied, as are the classic Arabic numbers and the contemporary trapezoidal indexes. The hands are large and filled with SuperLumiNova for excellent visibility in low light. In two models, the Super-LumiNova is vintage vanilla-coloured as an homage to the look of Tritium featured on the original Memovox Polaris. Historically black, the new JaegerLeCoultre Polaris is offered in a black or ocean-blue dial, bringing a sense of urban elegance. The cases for the JaegerLeCoultre Polaris collection are also brand new, with proportions designed for an elegant sports watch. They feature an eyecatching combination of brushed and handpolished surfaces, with sharp, plunging lugs and thin, rounded bezels. The large crowns, emblematic of the 1968 model, have been redesigned for better grip. The exhibition backs of three pieces in this new collection show off the high watchmaking manufacture movements, complete with an oscillating weight featuring the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo. Comprised of the initial release of five models, with the one limited edition paying tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Memovox watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection is a new pillar, one that redefines sporty elegance.

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S I M PLY FA S H ION mens & Womens



MEN’S FASHION

Vibrant and striking, men’s Spring/Summer collections combine Italian craftsmanship with contemporary visions of the world. DUCA SARTORIA

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ax Girombelli, founder of Duca Sartoria, and part of the third generation of a family of talented tailors, recently launched his new collection of jackets called, “International Jackets”, that celebrate the personality and culture of some of the most beautiful cities around the world. Girombelli’s tour around the world starts with Dubai. “Dubai is the centre and hub of the new world. I fell in love with this dynamic and beautiful city ever since I landed there the first time eight years ago. It is my pleasure and honour to make the ‘Dubai Jacket’ as a tribute to the place that I’m proud to call my second home,” Girombelli says. This jacket is characterised by the warm sand tone that reminds one of the Arabian desert. Inside there are four pockets closed by buttons and enriched by a lining that depicts the world’s map, something typical of all the Duca Sartoria jackets. On the back of the Dubai jacket there is an embroidery of the Burj Khalifa and the Dubai skyline, while #mydubai, the most used hashtag in the city, can be read on the under-collar. The jackets are rigorously custom-made, meaning each piece is unique. In fact, the jacket is created on the client’s silhouette and shape preferences, and subsequently hand-stitched. Special requests for the customisable elements include the personal choice of buttons, embroidery and features, plus bespoke interior pockets based on individual needs are also possible— because made to measure has no limits!

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE

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few months ago, Alessandro Sartori, former Creative Director of Berluti, was named Artistic Director of Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and Z Zegna. His debut collection is Spring/Summer 2018. Sartori has been inspired by the contrasts between innocence and sensual masculinity, exploring conscious and subconscious fantasies. To express these feelings, Sartori has imagined and reproduced the historic courtyards of the Università Statale in Milan—a futuristic garden in which a labyrinth of aesthetic compositions is recreated in a fanciful space. “To design a forward-looking men’s fashion wardrobe built around fluidity, freshness and colour, but enriched by the possibility of adding your own hint of personality and style, I couldn’t imagine a better place than this courtyard, where I often spent time in my youth reading, writing and sketching,” Sartori says. Fluid fabrics and delicate silhouettes are signatures of this collection, in which tailored couture suit constructions give blazers and suits a carefree spirit. Classic shirts are matched with deconstructed tops in various volumes, giving to the men’s silhouettes a new proportion. Joggers and tailored trousers are paired with tank tops and neck sweaters, while sport-inspired clothing is enhanced by hoods that recall the hunting world. The triple-stitch logos, synonymous with couture, embellish jackets and blazers. Washed silks, century cashmere and pure mohair give a sense of lightness to the collection. The colour palette is composed by the natural shades of walnut, vicuna, geranium, freesia, lotus, cypress, aqua and optical whites. The collection’s accessories include technical triple-stitch sandals, elasticated leather boots, the Tiziano sneakers and bags, baseball hats and visors made of Pelle Tesutta™.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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uillaume Meilland, Salvatore Ferragamo men’s Creative Director, devoted the new Spring/Summer collection of the brand to the leisurely lifestyle and understated elegance typical of the Italian Riviera. Images of Alain Delon, Marcello Mastroianni and 50s style icons are the style inspirations and references for this collection, that deploys a soft colour palette composed of earthy tones, with ivory, pinks, light blues and hazy blues. Soft and gentle silhouettes, deconstructed and versatile, define the Ferragamo man that wants to be formal yet casual. Formal items like double-breasted jackets and suits are in the collection but the mood and their fitting is relaxed, as if they were conceived to be worn only on the seaside. The marine world is subtly emphasised by patterns featuring corals and seahorses, that adorn lightweight Bermuda shorts, tailored coats and deconstructed jackets. Leather jackets and coats are also central in this collection, treated to look casual and full of details because they are unlined and stripped of any superfluous element. Fisherman knits and zipped cardigans complete the look of the Ferragamo man. Highlights of the collection are definitively the rubber-soled penny loafers and booties adorned with the “Gancino” logo in wood and horn. Clean lace-ups and slip-on suede moccasins are, of course, a perfect daily alternative too. Bags are made to be structured yet practical, with combinations of canvas and leather in contrasting shades. The entire collection is an ode to elegance in a soft yet confident form.


STEFANO RICCI

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tefano Ricci devoted its Spring/Summer 2018 collection to the eternal beauty of Matera—an Italian and world heritage site since 1993— that has been elected as the European Capital of Culture in 2019. As always, the collection is characterised by the presence of Ricci Blue, of blacks illuminated by textures and patterns, with the surfaces rippled by irregularities, recalling the craftsmanship and the intensity of the natural form in the linen and the silk. White is dominant in the palette of tones, and beige, so similar to the one of Matera’s stone buildings. The colour range also includes flashes of delicate red, the firm blue of southern Italy’s sky, and the burnt sienna of the arid hills on which men, with dynamic and determined energy, managed to build this world heritage site. Single-breasted two-button jackets, lean double-breasted suits with sleek and enticing lines, and waistcoats are all matched with light shirts and ties, with motifs that recall geometric engravings. The laced shoes in matted crocodile are coupled with belts, with buckles decorated with the triumphant eagle, symbol of the Florentine Maison. The Maison also presented slim trousers, close-fitting jeans and light leather jackets, ideal for a leisure wear spirit. The collection is a fusion between formal and two-piece looks—the serious style is balanced with the comfort of the soft knitwear and of the feather-light sneakers.

DOLCE & GABBANA

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n the last few seasons, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have changed the way they approach fashion. The Italian fashion duo has always been more inclusive than “exclusive”. The designers have started to celebrate the shift in focus by collaborating with young and successful men and women, engaging the phenomenon of the Millennials. It’s thanks to them that boys like Cameron Dallas, Austin Mahone, Brandon Thomas Lee and Maluma, or American Viners like Twan Kutper and Juanpa Zurita, have become increasingly recognised and demanded by fashion brands as a target market to which they can approach, enlarging their business. Domenico and Stefano have used millennials as models for their Spring/Summer 2018 show. The collection they presented is named the King of Hearts. Dolce & Gabbana’s playful King of Hearts is young and multifaceted—a young man who is part of a new generation that is constantly seeking the freedom of expression. This means that to be a “king” or a leader, you don’t need to be old and bearded, but instead you have to be young and boast fresh new ideas to bring to the world and carve out a place within it. The show is noteworthy for its cosmopolitism and multiformity. For D&G, there is not only “one” trend or “style” for the season but many of them: logomania, a new interpretation of pyjamas, prints and colour blocking—all of them are back and all mixed together. The prints, that appeal for their vibrancy, feature playing cards with an oriental influence.


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ounded in 1958 by Claudio and Carlaberto Corneliani in Mantua, the northern Italian region of Lombardy, Corneliani is a world-renowned menswear manufacturer with a signature line in suits and sports coats. Corneliani is widely admired for producing fine Italian tailoring and craftsmanship in a very competitive industry.

In 2016, the private equity firm Investcorp acquired the majority of Corneliani’s capital from the founding family and named Paolo Roviera as CEO of the brand. Roviera and his team have worked hard to transform the brand and elevate it back up high on the ladder of the international scene. To understand the new direction that Corneliani has taken, I met Stefano Gaudioso, Style Director and General Merchandising Manager of the brand. After working for 18 years for Zegna and Pal Zileri, during which Gaudioso was in charge of merchandising, he was hired by Paolo Roviera to help with the relaunch. Ivan Allegranti: Is Corneliani embracing a new beginning? Stefano Gaudioso: Corneliani is living an evolution. In fact, after Investcorp acquired the majority of the brand, Paolo and I decided not to disrupt the brand but to make it evolve. We decided to evolve in terms of elegance, sophistication and style, without forgetting our DNA and our loyal clientele. So, what we did is to change the way we created and approached the collections. We undertook style research, we changed suppliers, we used new textiles. Together with this we rebuilt the brand, changing the logo, the packaging and studying a new store concept designed by Marco Costanzi, which we will reveal in March in Rome. We will open with this new store concept also in London and next year in New York. And after that we will renovate our stores, including the one we have in Dubai. IA: Seeing and feeling your new Fall/Winter collection, it’s clear that you that you have chosen more precious textiles. Are you also changing the target clientele? SG: Intentionally we did not change our target clientele but in our retail we did add a selection of more luxury products, and they sold so well, more than the others, that our target has evolved into a much higher one. IA: The evolution is evident also on your website. Is the change reflected in e-commerce? SG: Yes, in fact, we rebuilt the website and we’ve launched the e-commerce products that are available all over the world, except in China and the US. But, especially with the website, what we did is to give to it a new spirit and make the customer feel a lifestyle experience. IA: And how do you feel about it? SG: I feel a great passion for my work and for life. Our strategy is to guide our customer through his passions—from cars to yachts to a luxury lifestyle—and to make him feel more.

Corneliani

Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte

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IA: Do your own passions match with those of Corneliani’s man? SG: Well, I have many of them. At Corneliani our goal is not only to “describe” the Corneliani man, but also to make him experience his passions. For example, a few months ago, we organised a vintage car experience with Riccardo Pozzoli and his NGA (No-Girls-Allowed) club, just for young entrepreneurs, creating the perfect environment to promote a capsule collection we launched that’s devoted to cars. So, what we are trying to do is not make the brand evolve statically, but to evolve the brand in a much deeper way. It’s not only cars, this summer we did also other events about sailing, riding, golf and motorbike worlds. IA: Can you tell us about the final customer? SG: What’s important is that someone is living the experience. Especially working with influencers: they live the experience and they make their friends live it. So, for now it's something very small but in the future we will make it possible that our loyal customers can live, for example, with a reward programme. Those experiences give to the customer a full service. And our concept is “Style Life”, we help our client to curate his style. Like for an art exposition, we are “curators” of our clients and we guide them step by step to discover new experiences and new style options.


IA: Where do Millennials fit in with Corneliani? SG: They are not our first target due to the fact that Corneliani is very traditional, but we have opened our doors to them, changing the way we are approaching and communicating our brand. IA: Can you tell us about this Fall Collection? SG: We started on ideas of projects related to our merchandising categories. We questioned why should our customer buy a new jacket or a new blazer or a new suit? From this we started to work on the colours and on the fabrics and we collaborated with our new suppliers in many different ways, using new materials and trying to find the best combinations between high craftsmanship and new technologies. We worked on shapes by lightening them. For Fall, and also for Spring, we combined formal with casual, creating a wardrobe that fits the Corneliani man in every single occasion, from day to night. In general, our new work and style approach is to express values that make men understand what’s behind the brand and its tailoring history. IA: What can we expect for Corneliani’s future? SG: We would love to enlarge our range of products and launch perfumes or other products, but before then we have to establish our brand awareness, and this takes time. We will also devise special events for our customers related to our markets. IA: On the subject of style, which items are essential in a man’s wardrobe? SG: A blazer that you can wear for every occasion, a pair of sneakers that you can wear every day and finally a pair of chinos pants that are perfect for all the day. IA: What is luxury for you? SG: Luxury is having the time to enjoy doing what you love. For instance, luxury for a man is to go to a shop and to take the time to live the experience in the store and buy something that he likes. IA: And what is elegance? SG: Elegance is an attitude, a way of being: you have it or you don’t. IA: Finally, what is the message Corneliani wish to convey? SG: The message I want to give is “Beyond appearance,” because behind a grey suit there is a world that you have to discover, a unique experience that we at Corneliani want to offer you. And that’s your moment of luxury.

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PARIS HAUTE COUTURE:

A Spring / Summer rendezvous – the Haute Couture Collections. by Ivan Allegranti VALENTINO As in the past, Valentino presented its haute couture collection at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris, one of the most exclusive hotels of the French capital. But this time, the show set was different from what you may expect from a runway set, where there is usually the catwalk and many narrow rows of seating. Here there were white and beige soft couches and chairs in which guests could sit to enjoy the show. In fact, it was reminiscent of the old 1950s haute couture salons in which models walked through without any sound and where clients, in an intimate space, could observe and concentrate on all the details of the dresses. For this Spring/Summer Haute Couture collection, Pier Paolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director, was inspired by the spirit and history of haute couture. What is haute couture’s relationship with the present day? How do we gauge the evolving relevance of haute couture today? And does couture still have a meaning in our modern social life? These were the questions that Piccioli tried to answer in the collection. The Italian designer expressed the contemporary values of haute couture by mixing in the atelier’s craftsmanship and knowledge with everyday essentials such as chinos or the trench. Floral motifs in long dresses and gowns were enchanted by Andrea Pontormo’s soft but impactful colour palette and by the plays of taffetas and moiré, which were a strong point in the collection. The collection was also characterised by curvy lines but with a sober and rigid silhouette. The hats, created by Philip Treacy, were made with feathers and recalled times that may never come back. This collection was actually a love letter made by Pier Paolo Piccioli to those grandiose times when haute couture was a way of being. Those times may have passed but Valentino can still make you dream of them.


CHANEL

DIOR

A French garden with a big circular fountain, with sandy paths and rose-threaded pergolas—this was the scene set for the Chanel Spring/Summer 2018 show, which as usual, took place at the majestic Grand Palais in Paris.

Monsieur Christian Dior was a true art connoisseur and counted many artists as friends, such as Dalì or Picasso. He actually had his own art gallery before he became a couturier. In fact, Mr Dior was a significant figure, hosting the first ever exhibition in Paris of Italian female surrealist artist Leonor Fini.

This time, Keiser Karl, monsieur Karl Lagerfeld, created a delicate collection characterised by its discretion. Soft pastel colours such as pink, blue, grey and white were prominent, but what stood out most from the entire show was the picturesque allure from the classic Chanel tweeds, the silks, and the chiffons dresses.

Starting with the incredible life of Fini, Maria Grazia Chiuri— Dior’s artistic director for women’s wear—based her Spring/Summer Haute Couture 2018 collection on Surrealism, one of the most controversial artistic movements of the twentieth century. What’s fascinating about Fini is that she was one of the first women who dressed up to interpret her different ways of being, representing herself in different ways, as if she herself were a work of art.

There wasn’t a silhouette or a specific volume in the dresses: everything was various and colourful as if Lagerfeld had played with the fabrics to recreate with this collection the variety that nature can offer, even if encapsulated in the closed space of the garden. Gowns, either hand embroidered or adorned with paillettes or hand painted by the skilful hands of Chanel’s artisans, were the collection’s true protagonists.

So, in this way, Chiuri found the link to our modern society in which everyone, through posting on social media, reinterprets with each post what they want or desires to define their uniqueness. For Fini, a masque was the symbol of the personality of the one who wore it, because for her what was really interesting was to represent people in multiple facets.

The chiffon used to adorn a meticulously embroidered floral trench coat evoked a Spring breeze, and the crystals that floated on an evening gown or on the boots recalled the dew on plants in the first hours of the day. We can say that with this collection that Mr Lagerfeld has, in the way like Renoir or Monet did, tried to capture the impossible beauty of nature in a spring day.

On the runway of the Museé Rodin, models wore black or white feminine men’s suits, men’s coats, ties and men’s jackets. The colour palette was mainly monochrome but there were some ball gowns in blue, grey or red—the noble colour for excellence. Of course, there were also sober and delicate ball gowns, a must-have for Maria Grazia.

ULYANA SERGEENKO The ritual of tea, feasts and joy are Ulyana Sergeenko’s main inspirations for her Spring/Summer 2018 haute couture collection. This time, the Russian couturier decided to present her collection in a luxurious and intimate location—the Hotel D’Evreux at Place Vendôme. The hotel salons were filled with sweets and a big five- tier cake stood at the centre of the principal room, with porcelain cups that seemed to be little houses, dangling from a Babel-like tower. The presentation was a way to communicate the new collaboration launched by Sergeenko with the Russian Imperial Manufacture, the porcelain manufacturer that used to create the dishes for the Czar. After the show, it transpired that the decorative cups may go on sale. The requests by the clients and press to purchase the refined porcelain cups was huge. However, speaking of the collection, it was an even greater triumph of pastel colours, with pink and green mixed with vibrant blues and reds, and of course the classic black and white. The silhouette was sleek and curved and of course it recalled the tea sets and the ceremonies of tea that took place during the Marie Antoinette period as well as in the fantastic world of Alice in Wonderland. Framing sleeves and hems, crepe, silk, Richelieu embroideries, taffeta, douchesse satin, and the distinctive Sergeenko Yalets and Vologda lace were all in the collection. Among the accessories, the Napkin bags were achingly cool, trimmed and worked with such a craftsmanship that, on a table, were easily confused with a real napkin.

The most important dresses of the collection were those in which the cage—as a structure of the dress itself or as a decoration of the gown—could be seen. Surrealism was very much about the body and about how the body moved: the cage was a natural reference for these artistic movements. In Dior’s couture alphabet, these ball gowns took cages as appropriate structure.


ZUHAIR MURAD During Haute Couture week, everything seems possible. The Hotel Potoki, one of the most aristocratic and “conservative” hotels in the French capital, was transformed for the Zuhair Murad Haute Couture show into a Native American camp. Traditional-style tents we’re used to seeing in old American westerns were recreated and placed in the hotel salons. Here, exotic-looking models with soft touches of tribal makeup walked down the runway. The first examples of the show were the most Indian inspired, with fringes and strong colours like red and black coming forth. Then, after this first phase, the show was dominated by the iconic and sensual Zuhair Murad women, wearing adorned and opulent dresses laden with Swarovski crystals. The most strikingly beautiful dress of the collection was a hand-painted gown on which antique scenes of hunting were reproduced, recalling the cave paintings made by primitive man hundreds of thousands of years ago.

RALPH&RUSSO From London to Asia, this is the journey that Tamara Ralph, Creative Director of the London-based haute couture brand Ralph & Russo, has made to get inspired for the new Spring 2018 haute couture collection of the house. Physically and mentally, Ms. Ralph travels into the East, recreating through a careful selection of fabrics, a glamourous 50s shaped Asian idea. The silhouette depicted in the collection has a kimono style that recalls the tight and fascinating world of the geishas. Unique details appear in the closing of suit jackets or in the drapes of the Indian sari, while soft and impalpable pareos bring us to the beautiful and relaxed coasts of Bali. The entire collection is a tribute and a love letter to the Orient. Somewhat appropriately, silk dominated the collection and what stood out from the show is the variety of colours and choices presented to the potential Ralph & Russo customer. The colours range from flashy red, acid green (a true must have!), pink, white and yellow, with touches of soft beiges and grey that give a more aristocratic and daily attitude to the clothes. The fabrics used are silk crêpe, gazer, silk satin, tulle, jacquard, chiffon ruffles and also ostrich feathers: an exercise of opulent and yet contemporary beauty.

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GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ Outside the Palais Chaillot, with the Eiffel Tower gleaming in distant relief, the Giorgio Armani Privé show’s location appeared grey and rainy, but inside the Palais you were dazzled by the panels in various colours and shades, quite unusual for Armani. “Nouages” (shades in English), was actually the title for the new Giorgio Armani Privé Spring/Summer 2018. The main inspiration for this Armani haute couture collection was the mixture of air and light that was interpreted in multiple and colourful shades. Orange and blue with touches of beiges nacré and black were combined and blended together to create the idea of summer’s light. Technical fabrics and silks were used alone or together create unexpected waves of light. The tailored jackets—one of Armani’s strong points—are paired with billowy skirts or shorts, that together give create a fluid floating effect. There was not, as might have been expected, a strong or tight silhouette. Instead it was soft and curvaceous, as the jacket’s shoulders, skirts and gowns stunned for their impalpable softness. In fact, as the show’s slogan declared, “Light defines shape and shape creates dreamlike elegance.”

GUO PEI The theme behind Guo Pei’s spectacular Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2018 collection is the Elysium, the mythological ancient Greek paradise. To represent this otherworldly place the designs use magical and imaginative flower forms, not the roses and daisies of everyday life. “Nowadays—as declared by the designer—we use flowers mostly as a decoration, but, in my case, I wanted to use them as a symbol of joy and as an inspiration for life. But what I wanted to convey here is that flowers and plants were those who gave birth and life to the human being.” Reviewing Guo Pei’s collection, you sense the influence of raw nature. A black model with tribal make up, dressed in an extremely intricate and flowered embroidered gold gown, posed as the tree of life, gesturing on the catwalk as if she was the starting point of life. After her followed models wearing blue short dresses with drapes, or white and gold ball gowns embroidered with blossoming flowers. The entire collection was an homage to women that, like a flower, unfold their beauty. Finally, the wedding gown, the final unveiling, had a huge train and mixed tribal details with precious, feminine crystal embroidery that made the model look like she was the Queen of Ice.

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S I M P L Y P R O P E RT Y

Encore for Act One|Act Two The final piece to Downtown Dubai’s puzzle, Emaar Property’s Act One|Act Two luxury residences are proving to be the talk of the town. By Julia Zaltzman

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ocated in the heart of Dubai’s new lifestyle hub, The Opera District, Act One|Act Two is Emaar Property’s latest residential opportunity within its flagship 500-acre Downtown Dubai megadevelopment. Providing prime luxury living in the UAE’s cultural and entertainment hub, its Mohammed Bin Rashid Boulevard location – the main thoroughfare for Downtown Dubai – overlooks the Dubai Opera (which opened last year to great fanfare, with a performance by Placido Domingo) and the Burj Park. Formed of two residential towers, providing a combined 718 apartments and penthouses, this luxury residential scheme is an icon in the making.

Opera’s opening last year, an array of museums, art-themed hotels, design studios and galleries all take centre stage. The Dubai Opera itself has 21,530 sq ft of floor space and serves as a state-of-the-art 2,000 seat multipurpose performing arts venue and cultural hub. The opera house hosts varied and prestigious events comprising all aspects of modern performance art, with 2017 witnessing the Welsh National Opera’s performance of La Boheme, and the inaugural BBC Proms Dubai. Designed with technology at its core, the Dubai Opera has moveable floors that enable the space to be converted into different formats, from an opera house or theatre to concert hall, banquet hall and even exhibition space.

Featuring standout design, the landmark towers sit above a podium which connects the scheme at ground and lower levels, and provides a dramatic entrance foyer, forming a fitting frame for visitors to view Burj Khalifa as they pass through it. The elevated podium is also home to luxurious cafes and eateries, as well as exclusive resident leisure facilities, an infinity pool, spa, gymnasium, and a 24-hour concierge service, which serves residents in both towers.

Formed of one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments ranging from 680 sq ft up to 1,500 sq ft, Act One|Act Two’s design is inspired by one of Dubai’s most popular attractions and embodies the dynamic features of the dancing Dubai Fountain. The architecture has an innovative stepped design on the upper levels, creating a silhouette that recalls the dancing shapes of the fountain and provides the towers with a unique and dynamic profile.

With Dubai Opera on its doorstep, the development provides an exclusive place to live and enjoy both culture and the arts, with residences at Act One|Act Two assured of easy access to all the cultural offerings, internationally renowned restaurants and world-class retail. Since Dubai

Creating a distinctive exterior facade while maintaining a practical purpose, the stepped design of the towers also serves to create a range of balconies and roof terraces for a selection of the apartments, each offering a unique view. The horizontal stepping creates wider views of Burj Khalifa,

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while the vertical stepping reflects the fountain’s vertical motion. The uppermost floors are also home to spectacular penthouses, benefitting from large L-shaped terraces and providing sweeping views over Downtown Dubai. It goes without saying that the interiors of Act One|Act Two are tastefully designed and crafted to embody style and contemporary class. Commenting on the development, Ahmad Al Matrooshi, managing director of Emaar Properties said: “Act One|Act Two feature exceptional residences within The Opera District and will serve as a new ‘gateway’ to Burj Khalifa. Residents will benefit from being on the doorstep of one of the world’s greatest cultural centres, in close proximity to the Dubai Opera and all of the art galleries, museums and design studios within the district. The generous apartment sizes, terraces overlooking the opera house, and innovative architecture reflecting The Dubai Fountain make these apartments some of the finest in Downtown Dubai.” Downtown Dubai itself is an integrated development set in open, green spaces and is dotted with lakes and other distinct water features, making something as simple as a walk a memorable and enchanting experience. Prices for apartments at Act One|Act Two start at around £311,000 for a one-bedroom apartment, around £490,500 for a two-bedroom apartment rising to a respectable £815,000 for a three-bedroom apartment. Only a walk away from major attractions, such as The Dubai Mall, The Dubai Fountain and Souk Al Bahar, the stunning apartments are also within close proximity to the Dubai Metro, meaning the whole city of Dubai is within easy reach.

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A PORTFOLIO COLLECTION OF WORLD CLASS THE WORLD DESIGNS FROM RENOWNED DESIGNER AND INTERNATIONAL AWARD WINNER FLORA DI MENNA

A collection of Luxurious aspiring HOME Interiors created with incredible details and craftsmanship. Impressive combinations of rare materials and finishes culminate to an award winning performance by Flora Di Menna Designs Inc.

Ocean front and self-indulging luxurious environments are the ESCAPE havens for the elite individual’s that will not compromise for second best. Flora Di Menna Designs is the preferred go to Interior Designer in combining clean sophisticated lines and materials to reflect the ease of living in a sun drenched environment.

Sophisticated and ingenious are the OFFICE interiors created by Flora Di Menna Designs. Colours, materials and textures are intertwined into each space based on its usage. Many of FDM Designs creative interiors have been International Award Winners.

www.fdmdesigns.com


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restige, privacy, and perfection are top of mind when designing the home. Ultra-high-end finishes, soaring ceilings, obsessive attention to details, wrapped in a beautifully designed package create a home like no other. With over 12,500 sq. ft. of extravagant interior space, the estate is designed by Flora Di Menna to reflect the needs and lifestyle of our clients.

COMFORT, SOPHISTICATION AND EXQUISITE DESIGN GRACE THE INTERIOR OF EVERY FLORA DI MENNA HOME DESIGN

www.fdmdesigns.com



FDM Designs has designed stunning island estates on waterfront properties throughout the Caribbean islands. Contemporary yet earthy are our designed environments with varies combinations of finishes, textures and colours. Full turnkey designs are provided for all of our clients from the onset of full interior and architectural design to construction and up to the total furniture and furnishings of the Escape haven.

COMPLETE THE PERFECT GETAWAY WITH MODERN, SLEEK INTERIORS CRAFTED TO PRESENT THE ESSENTIAL NATURAL HABITAT BY FDM DESIGNS

www.fdmdesigns.com



The approach Flora Di Menna has on office interiors is to treat them as individual as each client and their businesses. Sophisticated and ingenious office interiors are created by Flora Di Menna Designs. Colours, materials and textures are intertwined into each space based on its usage. Many of FDM Designs creative interiors have been International Award Winners.


Flora Di Menna Designs is an internationally acclaimed, Toronto-based interior design firm that specializes in luxury properties. The company has gained a reputation for delivering consistently stunning and innovative work, so much so that the firm has won numerous international and national design awards. The accolades are a testament to Flora Di Menna Designs’ originality, progressive style, beauty and grace.

www.fdmdesigns.com

905.709.2077


LIVING the Dream When Michael O’Bryan sold majority interest in his Atlanta-based hardware distribution business, he and his wife Suzi were ready for a new adventure. The golf enthusiasts were looking for a place where they could enjoy the good life.

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ichael had fallen in love with St Andrews during a trip two decades ago. Since then, he and Suzi had returned several times, even spending one Christmas in the Auld Grey Toon.

“The iconic Old Course was such an unbelievable draw,” he said, “and the more time we spent in St. Andrews, the more we wanted to return.” Now, the couple owns one of the finest residences in town, a three-bedroom home in Hamilton Grand, the iconic redstone building that sits majestically behind the Old Course’s 18th green. Originally the Grand Hotel, the century-old structure has a noble history, serving in World War II as a Royal Air Force training base and later, a University of St Andrews student residence and dining hall for 56 years. Under the ownership of Kohler Co., its four floors were converted into magnificent homes to regain its status as one of the most esteemed addresses in Scotland.

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The O’Bryans closed on their purchase in February and within a few weeks it was ready for occupancy, largely furnished with furniture and Oriental rugs from shops and antique stores in Edinburgh and St Andrews.

Among numerous Hamilton Grand amenities is a 24hour butler staff, which means someone is always ready to assist with everything from booking a tee time, to changing a high-ceiling lightbulb to welcoming guests.

“The view from our bay window looks straight down the first and 18th fairways with the R&A Clubhouse and the beach just beyond,” Michael said. “St Andrews is a mystical place with the castle, the cathedral, hidden passageways and cobblestone streets. It’s a college town, a beach resort and a historical destination.” And then there’s golf—five 18-hole courses within walking distance of Hamilton Grand, with another dozen nearby and every major course in Scotland within a day trip.

“Rarely has a week gone by that we haven’t had guests,” said Michael. We take them up to the rooftop terrace with views overlooking St. Andrews Bay all the way to Carnoustie, and share a toast—to the good life. Residences at Hamilton Grand are available from $1.2 million. For information contact HamiltonGrand@kohler.com

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Marilyn Hoffman

Chateau des Jardins

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his world class estate is found on 15 acres of the lushest grounds one can imagine, with pool and pool house, secluded walking trails laced with serene seating areas and over 120 specimen trees and shrubs that the owner brought in from all over the United States. There are even several redwood trees. A small, natural cave is tucked away on the property where the owner has had many fundraisers. The cave leads to granite tables outside for festivities. There is also a bridge on the grounds. Having always desired to own a bridge, the owner prescribed that the structure be tailored to Department of Transportation standards and functional to the highest standards. The grounds are spacious and there is plenty of room for an elegant equine facility. Well known builder of the finest homes in the southeast US, Gerald Jenkins, who only builds one house at a time with no short cuts, meticulously created a 13,000 sq. ft. (per seller) five bedroom, five full and five half bath French chateau. Many of the items within the home are from flea market finds in France and are integrated perfectly with artist Chris Hardy’s murals throughout the home. Hardy laboured to perfect the murals for over seven years. There are many other exquisite details such as: antique light fixtures, and marble and bronze fireplaces from famous furniture maker Francisco Linke, while the master bath features antique 18KT French fixtures.


Marilyn Hoffman HOFFMAN INTERNATIONAL PROPERTIES TEL – +1 214 698 1736 CELL – +1 214 674 3961 MarilynHoffman@sbcglobal.net www.MarilynHoffmanRealtor.com


An opportunity to own a real man cave


Patricia Hoffmaster Realtor, ASP

512-970-8601 From cedar-lined closets to all flooring being composed of marble, granite or quarter inch sawn oak, no expense was spared. The exterior of the 7,900 sq. ft. chateau is composed of hand-made bricks and machine turned Indiana limestone. There is no tile anywhere, only solid granite or marble. Four fireplaces complement the home of four levels. The ceiling height of the main level is more than 11 feet, consisting of the master bedroom suite, a library, parlour, entry foyer, family room, dining room, caterer’s dream kitchen, large pantry, and two half baths. The upstairs has three bedrooms and four baths, a musician’s balcony and a bonus room. One exceptional feature is the two-speed light elevator that reaches all floors. A beautiful spiral staircase with cherry hand railings and painted metal spindles with gold leaf is a stunning feature. The third floor is a heated and cooled unfinished attic area with access to the new slate roof and spectacular views of the property, pool house and garden. The finished basement level has approximately 4,582 sq. ft. of kitchen, exercise room, additional sitting room/dining room, downstairs office with authentic Napoleonic era antiques, and a stunning wine cellar and adjoining tasting room, holding over 2,000 bottles. Imagine such labour a of love for not only the land, but for a structure of such a calibre as this. Perhaps visualising Napoleon Bonaparte sitting at the window, overlooking such a place and feeling right at home in a chateau designed for a person of stature, is what the mind’s eye should retain. Offered for $8,890,000 www.KnoxvillesFinestEstate.com

Marilyn Hoffman HOFFMAN INTERNATIONAL PROPERTIES TEL – +1 214 698 1736 CELL – +1 214 674 3961 MarilynHoffman@sbcglobal.net www.MarilynHoffmanRealtor.com

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Newlyn Collection


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or more than three decades, Mark Wilkinson has been meticulously designing and handcrafting traditional cabinetry in its West Country workshops. The brand is synonymous with exacting English workmanship and age-old, by-hand techniques. The pieces produced here are objets d’art of timeless design that stand the test of time. Everything turned out of the Mark Wilkinson workshop is produced by artisans, many of whom are third-generation joiners whose skills have been passed down by family members, year-on-year working with a broader diversity of materials and finishes. Mark Wilkinson is best known for its finest quality fitted furniture including kitchens, dressing rooms, studies and media rooms, with designs that appeal to (consumers) lovers of fine design, who believe that 21st Century Technologies and traditional, quality craftsmanship should be mutually inclusive. Globally, increasing value is attached to craftsmanship of the highest standard, integrity and finish. This could explain why Canburg, the Wiltshire-based luxury furniture group that owns this quintessentially British brand, is experiencing an exponential growth in international sales and is fast evolving as a key champion for quality British products on the global stage. It has been listed for two consecutive years for the Sunday Times HSBC International Track 200 — up ten places on last year. This is the definitive guide for Britain’s top 200 companies with the fastest-growing international sales. The founder, Mark Wilkinson himself, is a gifted cabinetmaker who started out in 1981, imbuing his warm, creative and welcoming kitchens with hand-carved detailing, and carefully ornamenting the reclaimed timber to craft a new English country style. He was awarded an OBE in 2011 for his services to the furniture-making industry. The

company has stayed true to its roots, and, inspired by the founder’s passion for bespoke and sustainable furniture, is still known for forwardthinking fresh creativity within a strong context of a rich heritage and artisanal tradition. Mark Wilkinson’s Furniture Alchemy is best known for its six ‘permanent’ collections, albeit bespoke cabinetry and individual pieces are also par for the course. These range from fluidly elegant ‘Milan’, neoclassical ‘English Classic’ and whitewashed timber-clad ‘New England’, to the timeless Edwardian-influenced elegance of ‘Cook’s Kitchen’ and the ‘Newlyn Collection’, which is inspired by the eponymous school of Victorian-era Cornish art. The Mark Wilkinson Showroom on London’s Holland Park Avenue has been completely re-planned and is the perfect place to weigh up the differences between the signature Newlyn and New England collections, which propose two entirely different kitchen experiences. ‘Portobello’, the latest collection, launched this year, is showcased equally beautifully in Mark Wilkinson’s entirely reimagined space in the Yorkshire spa town of Harrogate. ‘Portobello’ is inspired by the vintage eclecticism and confident style of the eponymous West London district. The Harrogate showroom acts as an ample context for Portobello’s sweeping marble tops and elegant storage and display solutions for wines. This magnificent high-ceilinged space replete with architectural detail is an apposite choice for the new work. It expresses perfectly the contrapuntal spirit behind Mark Wilkinson’s designs, which suggest carefully considered solutions to modern living while paying homage to the most treasured aesthetics of the past. mwf.com / +44 (0)1380 850 007


The newly launched Breakfast Cabinet cleverly folds open. Traditional marble to keep breads fresher and crafted drawers for well organised condiments and household accessories.

Storage that comes to you, with divider pegs to separate delicate pieces of copper-ware or fine china. Hand-formed dovetail joints that define the classic quality.


New England Collection

“Mark Wilkinson Furniture is designed with thought, built with passion, assembled with pride and owned with love.� Vanessa Brady OBE, President, SBID (Society for British and International Design)



Portabello Collection

The Centre of Modern Family Living

The kitchen has been much more than a workspace. It is now the heart of the home and the place where we cook and celebrate food while entertaining friends and family. Mark Wilkinson Furniture is truly bespoke and allows you the opportunity to create a space that defines your taste both from a culinary and aesthetic perspective.


Island living Set in a UNESCO World Heritage Site between the Pitons, the stunning Beachfront Collection’s interior living spaces at Sugar Beach, St Lucia, merge with the paradise world outside to create the homes of a lifetime. Words by Julia Zaltzman

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estled between the Pitons – two iconic mountainous volcanic spires located in Saint Lucia – Sugar Beach is a haven of luxury and tranquillity that showcases the island’s stunning beauty. Reached via a winding road through the rainforest, Sugar Beach encapsulates a tropical paradise where platinum sands and white-washed villas are tucked into the hillside. A former sugar plantation, it has been transformed into a contemporary and intimate resort where elegance and relaxation are the order of the day for both couples and families. Out of 22 privately owned oneto four-bed residences overlooking the sparkling waters of the Caribbean Sea, the remaining three Beachfront Collection properties are available to purchase, ranging from $8.25 to $15 million and offering owners the rare chance of living in a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Set in one of the most desirable secluded vacation spots in the world, the Beachfront Collection at Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort, offers true luxury and impeccable styling where interior living spaces seamlessly merge with the exterior environment. Designed

inside and out by British architects Michaelis Boyd using all-natural materials, the Beachfront Collection homes are a departure from the classic Caribbean style of the rest of the resort and have a sleek, modern aesthetic and several tranquil water features. Floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors connect the living and dining rooms with the exterior terraces and pool areas. Rafters have been left exposed, creating light-filled double-height living areas. The open design incorporates each living space into the magnificent vistas of the Pitons, while skilful architecture and landscaping offer maximum privacy. Custom-built Italian kitchens equipped with state-of-the-art appliances by Gaggenau are complemented by bespoke furnishings, available in classic light or modernist dark colour palettes. Five-fixture bathrooms feature rain showers and spacious freestanding tubs and outdoor showers, and each residence features bespoke plantings and oral pathways; beautiful landscape crafted gardens for each residence come complete with the privacy of a private outdoor area, which leads towards the beach.

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“These are truly the very best, and most stunning homes available on the island of St Lucia—situated in a location that has no equal anywhere in the world,” says Sugar Beach owner, Roger Myers. “We are extremely proud of what we have created here and applaud the way in which Michaelis Boyd has been able to marry exemplary contemporary design with architectural elements that capitalise on the dramatic views and surroundings of Anse des Pitons.” Private access to Glenconner Beach, as well as the inclusion of outdoor showers, full-height sliding glass doors and infinity edged pools, allow for a seamless transition from these homes to the sea and their incredible Caribbean surroundings. Greeted by a private butler upon arrival, any stresses melt away as you are handed a mobile device that allows you to contact them at any time – whether you crave a cold drink, wish to book dinner in a romantic spot, or arrange for the shuttle to whisk you up the hill. Snorkel in search of colourful marine life or stroll along winding wooden walkways to the enchanting Rainforest Spa where treehouse treatment cabanas are connected by bridges. In addition to the two new Beachfront Collection homes, there are 20 other plantation elegant Residences at Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort ranging from one to four bedrooms. These accommodations

are perfect for groups or families and entitle guests to priority access to all of the resort’s amenities and facilities. The first-class hotel rooms feature a classic colonial style complemented with contemporary touches and each comes complete with a private plunge pool. The Luxury Sugar Mill Rooms are close to the main facilities while Luxury Villas are set high in the hillside. Luxury Beachfront Bungalows offer direct beach access and are just steps from the water’s edge. Breakfast is served at the Terrace – set in the elegant Great House. Enjoy relaxed al fresco meals at the beachside Bayside Restaurant and Caribbean-influenced elegant dining at the Great Room or head to the Cane Bar for sushi platters and an Asian-themed menu. Romantic private dining experiences are available with tiki torchlights on the beach or under the stars on your own private terrace. Sugar Beach is just a short distance from Hewanorra International Airport which has direct flights from London on both British Airways and Virgin Atlantic, and a number of major US cities such as New York, Boston, Miami and Atlanta.

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Snow globe magic Majestic winter retreats

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e take it upon ourselves to reveal the finest of hidden mountain gems and inevitably see the potential of having it all – from unrivalled ski slopes, to deluxe spas and sumptuous gastronomy, all within the finest of luxury hotels.

Pine-scented Arosa It goes without saying, the best places are hidden and coveted by those in the know and this surely is true for the tiny, pine scented, mountain town of Arosa, the latest craze of outdoor winter fun. Those who have heard its name whispered amongst the privileged try to keep it amongst their inner crew, whilst others might never reveal where they venture to for their best ski of the year. A direct flight from Dubai to Zurich and then a three-hour train ride—Swiss trains run like their famous clockworks—or a private chauffeur and luxury transport can be arranged. This alpine town in the Schanfigg Valley, a cul-de-sac of mountain terrain, offers skiers the very best of slopes and weather conditions. The wind factor is close to non-existent due to Arosa’s prime geographical positioning. Cornered by mountain peaks on one side and flanked by pinetree slopes on the other. Furthermore, Arosa is located 1,800 metres above sea level, a great starting point to head even higher up the slopes to enjoy the suncovered plateaus and 225km network of perfectly groomed pistes catering to every level of proficiency. For those who like to mix things up, the 60km of unspoilt hiking routes and over 25km of cross-country trails through stunning natural surroundings are sure to delight. Here, in this darling little town of beautiful boutiques and cosy cafes—where local produce and friendly smiles are considered a given—the lines blur between tradition and residential cool. On the edge of town, off the slopes, lies the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. With its grand location at the foot of the slopes and with striking vistas all round, the hotel has become the place to be during ski season, whilst the latest spa extension Tschuggen Bergoasa, literally meaning ‘Mountain Oasis’, is true to its word and receives high acclaim from around the world.

Design and beauty in one The internationally renowned Swiss architects, Mario Botta, and interior designer, Carlo Rampazzi—known for his striking colour combinations—went for a minimalistic approach in materials in the spa’s design. Glass, maple wood and granite, as if the chosen materials determine the relationship of the existing hotel and the surrounding mountain peaks. Fine lines and characteristic glass domes peak out and cut through the landscape, their shapes referring to the trees in the landscape and lighting up the calmest of colours at night with their green, blue and yellow hues, all of which are those of the Arosa flag. The menu of spa offerings is extensive, and the staff are sophisticated in their approach. Relax rooms are available around every corner and the set up of the three levels of this mountain oasis is so grand, you feel as if you are spending the day in a private retreat.

Private mountain retreat

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The Tschuggen Grand Hotel, part of the Tschuggen Group, took its Romanish name from the nearby Tschuggen mountaintop—the locally spoken dialect. It is the only hotel in the region offering its own ski express, a private mountain railway offering guests an exclusive ‘ski in-ski out’ service, which takes guests either halfway up the mountain from where they can meet the brightest of sunrays, or opt for lunch on the terrace of the Tschuggen Hutte. Alternatively, guests can venture higher still to the source of some of Switzerland’s first-class ski, snowboard and carving routes.


Carlton Hotel St. Moritz and Tschuggen Grand Hotel are part of the privately owned Tschuggen Hotel Group. The Group offers wellness experiences, heart-warming service, gastronomic excellence, picture-perfect outdoor settings, all with breathtaking views at Switzerland’s premier locations: Arosa, St. Moritz and Ascona.

At night, guests can enjoy dinner in one of the many restaurants within the hotel. Burgers and salads are served in the casually cool Basement where after 9pm the bowling alley lights up or La Collina where fresh, informal and local fare are the main elements for the evening. For fine dining, the Michelin starred restaurant, La Vetta, an elegant restaurant where the finest of flavours blend with local produce to create culinary masterpieces throughout the ever-changing menu, entice hotel guests with continuous gastronomic surprises. The rooms are mesmerising with stunning views of the mountaintops and are all interconnected, offering the option of taking over the entire floor to have family together. The luxury suites flank the lower floors and are beautiful abodes in the midst of elegance and nature, which the resident interior designer makes plenty of reference to within his choices of materials and colours.

Saintly St. Moritz Another one of Rampazzi’s interior masterpieces is displayed at The Carlton Hotel, St. Moritz. Here, all 60 suites are south facing, offering the very best of views across the luxury mountain resort of Sankt Moritz, as the locals call it. Each suite identifies itself with striking colour combinations, elevating the surrounding alpine scenery. The beautiful setting of the lake in front of the hotel offers not only the most pristine of views, but also seasonal highlights including winter polo in the last week of January to winter walks over the snow-covered ice. For those seeking personalised activities, the hotel offers spa services spread over three floors with ladies only areas and the option to book private spa chambers. Furthermore, the concierge arranges private ski instructors for those who are keen to explore further. They even have the unique services of an outdoor butler who knows every detail of the Upper Engadin region—from snowshoeing, bobsledding and mountain tours in sheepskin-covered carriages pulled by graceful horses. A perfect day out of the ordinary, if that is even possible in a setting like St. Moritz.


Former summer residence in winter Contradictory to its former allusion as ‘summer residence’ to the Russian tsar, the Carlton Hotel only opens its arched doors in the cooler climates, starting from December. Winter is the exclusive time to be part of the history of this cosy yet striking castle-like hotel, where open fires warm guests on the bel-etage and the sun terrace invites the art of relaxation with a view. Restaurant Da Vittorios’ Michelin-star team attract guests and local residents with sumptuous gastronomic delights of the highest level, whereas Romanoff offers beautiful and delicious dishes in the grandeur of the hotel’s principal floor.

Palatial privacy The suites come with excellent amenities and can be all inter-connected to create the larger-than-life feeling of a ‘home away from home’ during your stay. The hotel is enviably lucky with its location, just off the main street, yet with a scenery and magnificence of a residence of its time. Noticeable are interior elements referring to previous owners with majestic stairways and a stately ballroom for special occasions. For those who would think this is an understatement, the Carlton Hotel can be privately booked for those unique moments, such as winter weddings, birthday celebrations and even corporate outings. The highlight, quite literally, would be the penthouse located on the top floor of the hotel. Its wooden beams, fireplace and balcony with a picture perfect alpine view surely create a feeling of your secluded chalet in the sky. Add in the private butler and you’ll never want to leave until the season is over and the hotel closes, if ever. With this in mind, leaving would be most difficult; with its picturesque scenery outdoors and the warm welcome inside, the Carlton Hotel St. Moritz is an inimitable combination of history, charm and service—one to cherish and return to when the first snowflakes descend from the skies to colour this town white. Hotels: Tschuggen Grand Hotel, Arosa, Switzerland tschuggen.ch Carlton Hotel, St. Moritz, Switzerland carlton-stmoritz.ch


The Ultimate Alpine Escape

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Six Senses W Residences Courchevel

hen you hear the two words “Six Senses” in the context of an upcoming trip—a getaway and an adventure—you know you’re going to be spoiled silly. Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas is synonymous with luxury living—this global management company comprised of 11 resorts and 31 spas under the brand names Six Senses, Evason and Six Senses Spa, have mastered the art of delivering wow factor and lavish pampering on their guests.

By Nick Rice

Just two years old now is the Six Senses’ first residential project in Europe and the first fully-serviced residential spa development in that most glamorous and elite of all resorts in the French Alps—Courchevel. Six Senses Residences Courchevel is located at the very heart of Courchevel 1850, which is perfectly positioned to get the best out of Les Trois Vallées—the largest ski area in the world with over 600km of pistes and 200 ski lifts. Like a St. Tropez of winter sports, 1850 is the place to be, not only for the world’s glitterati, but for anyone who wants access to the some of the best skiing on the planet, followed by access to the world’s most refined shopping, dining and hotel and spa experiences. 1850 boasts the highest concentration of luxury mountain hotels in the world, with two 6-star palaces and a dozen 5-star luxurious hotels. There are also more Michelin-starred restaurants here than you can shake a fork at—on the last count there were seven restaurants sharing 11 stars. Kerry McClinton-King, Business Development Director at Six Senses Residences Courchevel, says, “Courchevel 1850 is renowned as one of the best ski resorts in the world, so we are delighted to set a new benchmark with the opening of the spa, which completes this unique residential development. At The Residences, we’ve combined exclusive hotel-style amenities and service with the comfort and privacy of your own home. The result is a six-star ski experience like no other.” My chauffeur drops me off outside the traditional-style building, all grey stone and alpine-exposed wooden beams, and a concierge is instantly welcoming and efficiently taking care of my bags and room key. The lobby is quiet and soothing. Through a side door there is convenient access to the high-end ski rental store, where I will later be kitted out with top-quality gear in quick and friendly fashion. First, it is to the penthouse, which already has a reputation. The insider talk I’ve been privy to says it is something exceptional, even by Six Sense’s top-end standards. Walking into the huge, open-plan living space, with a modern kitchen, eye-catching glass wine cellar, designer furniture, contemporary pop art paintings and objet ‘d’art, it’s immediately obvious what all the talk is about—it really is stunning and I can hear my inner voice whisper, “I want to live here.” Exploring the penthouse takes a while but reveals a cosy kid’s room tucked away on a second floor, a personal sauna, a cinema room, modern kitchen and wine cellar, inviting reading areas, gorgeous bathrooms—the master suite having a freestanding bath and private terrace. There are three spacious balconies in total, giving triple aspect views of the majestic mountain scenery. There are 53 exclusive apartments in the entire complex, although half of these have sold; they range in size from 70 to 268 square metres. And whilst the penthouse is certainly a showcase, each residence is furnished with the same attention to detail and sophisticated sense of style and taste. The Residences’ interiors were curated by Alain Foeillet, who naturally allowed an alpine aesthetic to influence the feel of the place. There are antique skis smartly used as decoration and organic materials like stone, wood and clay contrast beautifully with an array of luscious soft furnishings. The furniture in the penthouse is designed by award-winning Morpheus London and the list of facilities is lengthy, but includes Naturalmat organic mattresses, Organic Pharmacy bathroom amenities, flat screen TVs with satellite channels, Apple TV, Wifi and iPad integrated music systems.

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Prices range from €1.5m to €8.8m and buyers who are not using their apartment throughout the season have the option of renting it out. Residents have access to unrivalled amenities provided by Six Senses’ peerless service team, including a 24/7 concierge, a residents’ club lounge, private catering and a dedicated ski concierge located in a private chalet under the main ski lift in Courchevel 1850. Yet more extras include state-of-the-art security technology, dedicated ski lockers, private car parking and storage caves. Getting to the slopes the next morning couldn’t be easier. Following a zingy fresh juice and a continental breakfast in the Six Senses Lounge and being efficiently measured up and provided with award-winning Black Crow skis and boots in the Six Senses rental store, which are both adjacent to each other and the Residences, the Six Senses resident’s concierge—who is available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year— whisks me off in a limo van to the piste, saving me from schlepping up the hill lugging my skis and boots. The skiing itself is spectacular—the bright blue firmament above our heads throws into sharp detail the monumental mountains that make up the Three Valleys. The snow conditions are awesome, and I overhear a couple of ski instructors saying it hasn’t been this good for 15 years or more. Imagine deftly-groomed runs, inviting off-piste powder slopes, effortless runs at village level and superb tree skiing—there’s something to please all levels of skiing ability and preference. And when it’s time for après ski, there are boutique stores from the upper echelons of luxury brands, such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton and many more. These are blended together with art galleries and of course, the numerous aforementioned fine restaurants. Bel Air, Cap Horn and Chalet de Pierres are three exceptional places, and you can even take a course in cooking with Michel Rochedy, the Michelin starred chef at Le Chabichou. There are other winter sports available too, from a hair-raising toboggan run down to the village of 1550, plus show-shoeing, cross-country skiing, ice karting and an Olympic ice rink. For those who want nothing to do with any kind of winter sports there are activities such as bowling, rock climbing, paragliding, horse-drawn carriage rides, forest walks and hot-air balloon rides. Whatever your activity of choice, one thing most people will appreciate after any kind of exertion, is the chance to relax and allow your body to recover in the tender embrace of a world-class spa. The Residence’s Spa is a 695-square-metre haven of serenity and calm with a team of warm and talented professionals, offering a long menu of enticing therapies and treatments. There is an indoor swimming pool, an outdoor Jacuzzi, a healthy juice bar, various steam and sauna rooms, plus a fitness centre and a studio for classes. As well as first-class facilities, the spa also offers the latest ground-breaking treatments and the spa manager, Olivier, recommended I try a new compression technology called NormaTech Boots, which are effectively inflatable boots that cover your entire legs, and then inflate and deflate, as though you were having your blood pressure taken. Olivier—who has run ultra-marathons all over the world in his spare time, including once running an event for three days straight!—assures me the treatment dramatically speeds up muscle recovery. Whether it helps aching legs heal faster or not, it feels strangely nice. A perfect day is blissfully rounded off with a hot oil massage and drifting in and out of consciousness I can hear that inner voice again, “I want to live here”. A commitment to community, sustainability and wellness has helped allowed Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas to establish a solid brand and a remarkable experience. By 2021, the company project they will double in size, which is great news for travel lovers, as it means more Six Senses hideaways to lose a sense of time in.

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Tagomago Private Island

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ne of the most exclusive private islands for rent in the world, Tagomago Private Island, located 900 metres in front of Ibiza, Spain.

Tagomago offers everything you can imagine a demanding VIP client is looking for, whether it is for a family vacation or to celebrate an unforgettable event, Tagomago has it all! The whole private island of Tagomago has a plot of more than 600.000 m2 in a breathtaking natural environment, offering you total privacy, top security, spectacular sunrises and sunsets, and it's own private jetty and mooring. Almost every water sport is available in Tagomago, such as, jogging course, nature walks, hiking, outdoor fitness area, waterski, wakeboard, paddle surf, canoe, fishing, snorkelling, sailing, windsurf, two jet skis. 276 S I M P LY A B U D H A B I


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The modern luxury villa is fully catered and fully staffed and is situated in the epicentre of the private island of Tagomago, with five very spacious master bedrooms with bathrooms ensuite. Customised designer kitchen with professional equipment. Floor heating and air conditioning all throughout the villa. All the rooms are modern and trendy and were decorated by internationally well known interior designers, which guarantee the highest standards and give our guests all facilities they need. The quality and technical equipment of the property is very sophisticated and of the highest standards (SONOS Media System, modern Samsung TVs, Wifi, LED light system). There is a magnificent 17m x 8m swimming pool, a jacuzzi, sauna, BBQ area, and spacious sunrise and sunset chill out terraces.

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Tagomago is located only 5 minutes away (by boat) from Ibiza (it is less the 900 meters distance off the coast of Ibiza). It will take you less than 45 minutes to get you from Tagomago to Ibiza downtown, allowing you to participate in all the lifestyle that Ibiza has to offer, without any logistic affords. If you wanted to go to the famous hippie market of San Carlos, that would only take 15 minutes from Tagomago! Unbeatable panoramic sea views, a peaceful environment, wide open spaces throughout the whole villa, the ultimate in appliances and commodities, the possibility of enjoying outdoor sports all by yourself if you wish! All of this, makes Tagomago, one of the most desired private islands in the world. Paradise does exist... welcome to Tagomago Private Island!

www.tagomago-island.com info@tagomago-island.com +41 799 61 11 27



Coco Collection Authentic boutique luxury in the Maldives doesn’t get better than at Coco Collection’s blissful havens—Coco Bodu Hithi and Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu. Nick Rice discovers gourmet Maldivian cuisine in a secluded paradise.

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A

s another searing red disc slips into the distant inky depths, I’m gripped by the same thought that has been lingering under the surface of my consciousness for the last few days… I don’t want to leave the Maldives… and more specifically, the magic of the Coco Collection resorts. I’m tempted to ask for a job. I’m useless in the kitchen, but there is a great deal of open space here, maybe I could work on the grounds. Of course, it’s an unrealistic monologue that’s going on in my head, but I bet most guests here daydream about what life would be like here if they didn’t have to return to their own lives. There is just something ineffable about these island resorts. They are uniquely soothing… it’s as though the very air eases the mind and triggers a relax and rejuvenate mode in the body. Coco Collection comprises three island resorts that are recognised as being amongst the best of the best in the Maldives’ luxury segment. The resorts have been attracting visitors since they opened the doors back in 2005. Since then they have collected various industry awards, but accolades aside, it is the testimonials of visitors that offer true insight. Having spoken to a number of repeat visitors to the Coco Collection islands, there is something in the tone of their voice, the widening of the eyes, the obvious heartfelt connection they have with the place, that is the most revealing. There is a sense of harmony here that guests seem to have no trouble connecting with. Preservation of the natural ecology and a holistic balance with the community and the surrounding environment is of paramount importance to the company. When they state a commitment to sustainability, it’s not merely lip service paid to appease the environmentally conscious traveller, it’s part of the very philosophy of the brand and it filters down into all aspects of how the three resorts are managed. The three resorts are Coco Privé Private Island—the most exclusive, an entire island escape, your own personal paradise. Then the two resorts I visited, Coco Bodu Hithi, which marries a traditional laid-back island life with worldly sophistication, and Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, which is focused on the natural wonder of the landscape in the Maldives.

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The atmosphere is so homely, warm and welcoming that it’s little surprise to learn that it’s a family run business. Part of the family and Marketing and Sales Manager, Sarah Hilmy couldn’t be more welcoming a host. Giving an overview of the resorts Sarah says, “Coco Collection is a haven for lovers of travel and style. Each celebrates traditional Maldivian architecture and ambiance. But each offers a distinct and extraordinary reality.” Keen to focus on the range of cuisine and the amazing restaurants at Coco Bodu Hithi and Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, Sarah arranged for an extensive gastronomical tour to experience the atmosphere, meticulous service and the authentically Maldivian dishes served on the resorts. Beginning at Coco Bodu Hithi, it doesn’t take long to witness the respect and importance given to food and a healthy diet that embraces pleasure here. There are five restaurants and two bars that share the secrets of local cuisine as well as offering global favourites. Sarah also mentions that Michelin-starred chefs visit the restaurants every year to create one-off experiences—a testament to Coco Collection’s reputation for serving some of the best food in the Maldives. A perfect example is when Chef Annie hosts a special weekly experience where a Thai dinner is prepared with a cooking demonstration at the Coco

Residence library. Bringing a scintillating taste of Thailand and a homecooked vibe to the event, Annie invites you to a shared family-style dinner experience with other fellow guests. As she cooks, Annie reveals lots of facts about the ingredients and explains the creation of the dishes, also providing handy little hacks on how to perfect each dish. Some of the highlights include classic Thai canapés like Ka Nom Pang Na Gai—deep fried minced prawn on toast—and Larb Kai Poh Pia Sod, a spicy minced chicken spring roll. From authentic home-cooking experiences to fine dining to beach barbecues, there’s something different to discover every night at the resorts. Air is the gorgeous poolside restaurant and home to diverse breakfast buffets and themed dinners. Guests choose from an À la carte menu of vibrant European salads, Maldivian specialties, prime cuts charred to perfection on the grill, and mouth-watering desserts. Indian, Arabian, Italian or French: the dinner buffets celebrate iconic cuisines. Aqua is the fine-dining restaurant with a special focus on fresh seafood. The chefs showcase the fragrant delicacy of Thai and South East Asian flavours in a seasonal menu that is based on the day’s local catch. In 2016, it was voted ‘Best luxury seafood restaurant in the Maldives’ in the World Luxury Restaurant Awards. Situated on wooden decks suspended over the


lagoon, guests enjoy a la carte options such as Peeky toe crab cakes, Balinese Pepes ikan, or a mouth-watering platter of lobster, reef fish, salmon, calamari and king prawn with Asian salads and oriental dips. Tsuki is a glorious celebration of authentic Japanese cuisine. The atmosphere is relaxed even though the food is incredibly refined. It’s a pleasure to pass an evening here and of course the dishes are all inherently healthy. The chefs prepare Japanese soups, salads, tempura, sashimi, sushi, hot dishes and plenty of delicious desserts. Located on the east side of the island standing over the lagoon, within the Coco Residences enclave, Stars fuses flavours of the East with those of the Mediterranean. At Latitude, the stone-baked pizzas and Asian inspired wraps and sandwiches make for a relaxed lunch or an energy boost after a hard day’s snorkelling or sunbathing. Live bands set the tone on select evenings, serenading the sunset over Bodu Hithi. There are also guaranteed to be times where you just can’t peel yourself away from the luxury of your villa, and on those occasions the in-villa menu is full of tempting dishes.

Lifestyle Manager at Coco Residences, Gulguna Saidyominova, recommends starting the day at Coco Bodu Hithi with eggs. “The signature omelette from the chef is my secret to start a perfect morning, together with fresh pressed orange juice and of course Maldivian Fresh tuna sashimi. You can never go wrong with fresh sashimi!” Reflecting on her favourite restaurant for a spectacular view, she says, “My favourite is the Stars restaurant. During the daytime, it’s very serene and tranquil.” Over at the Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu the experience is equally unforgettable. Dhuni Kolhu lies in the impossibly blue southern waters of the Baa Atoll, just a half-hour journey by seaplane from Malé International Airport. It’s the only way to arrive as you get a bird’s eye view of the azure lagoons and curling atolls and it’s a taste of the natural wonders that await you. This is a designated UNESCO biosphere reserve and home to a wonderfully diverse range of marine life and reefs. The Dhuni Kolhu Resort embodies the Maldives as it should be: nourishing, charming, inspiring and enchanting. The style here is rustic yet luxurious, organic yet elegant. Traditional craft blends with the ease of contemporary comfort. This is a soulful place where the everyday stresses of life are left behind, and you can reconnect with nature—Coco Collection gives it the perfect nickname: they call it “barefoot luxury.”

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The fresh and delectable dining here includes two restaurants and two bars serving locally-sourced ingredients from land, tree, and sea. Cowrie is the main restaurant where you can enjoy a smorgasbord of local delights with some international treats too. With the scent of Maldivian flowers lingering beneath the cavernous space topped by a thatched roof, Cowrie has everything from sashimi to porridge and Friday night is Maldivian night— the chefs prepare a feast with a stunning centrepiece, such as a whole grilled tuna from the day’s catch. At Cornus restaurant you can also dine under a thatched roof or directly on the white sandy beach. Overlooking the stunning turquoise sea, you can savour the textures, colours and flavours of the pan-Asian menu. Treat your taste buds with fresh delicacies from China, India, Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia. Following a sandy pathway through a lush green garden you arrive at Beach Bar, the ideal spot for a sundowner. And tucked away in the lush greenery at the southwest tip of the island is Conch Bar, the resort’s Maldives Bar & Café, which serves a range of rich coffees, light lunches, Mediterranean pasta dishes, freshly-squeezed juices and long coolers. All the drinks and dishes served at both Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu and Coco Bodu Hithi are memorable, healthy and beautifully presented. The obvious ingredient here is passion, and it shows in every aspect of a visit to Coco Collection resorts. Reflecting on what makes this idyllic corner of the Earth so special, Gulguna says, “Its tropical lifestyle… the beautiful white sandy floors and the food selection. The open-air bars, the colour scheme of turquoise lagoon—the blue, pink, purple and yellow skies. The big sun and the rainbows in the mornings. “The Maldives is a very special place and the only way to understand it is to visit and experience it.”


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EX NIHILO Pure Refinement from the Parisian Perfume House by Ivan Allegranti


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n the city of light, walking down Rue Saint Honoré just in front of the famous Le Castiglione café, one of many “places to be seen” in Paris at number 352, you find the perfume boutique of Ex Nihilo. Observing the store from the outside, it doesn't seem out of the ordinary, elegant and wellappointed as one would associate with the array of luxury monobrand stores that are in Paris, but only when you enter do you discover an extraordinary world of fine fragrances. Founded in 2013 by Olivier Royère, Sylvie Loday and Benoît Verdier, the Ex Nihilo brand has distinguished itself from other perfumery brands for its contemporary and conceptual approach to scents. The brand’s name itself, that comes from Latin “ex” (from) “nihilo” (nothing), speaks volumes about the brand. “From nothing”, Olivier, Sylvie and Benoît have created a striking brand with an innovative concept: they allow the customer to be the perfume atelier. Relying on your own nose, you decide the perfume that you want to create, a one-of-a-kind scent made just for you. When you enter any of the Ex Nihilo boutiques that span the world from Paris to New York to Dubai, you can either choose an already existing perfume or you create your own scent. And with the second option, there is no lengthy process and drawn out anticipation to receive your personal creation—it can take as little as 15 minutes to invent your own personalised perfume. How do they manage that? This is how it works. On the ground floor an assistant invites you to discover the Ex Nihilo fragrances through the “Vase des Senteur”, a series of scent emitters that look like vases encased in blocks of transparent Perspex. To smell the scent, you just need to press a button on one of the vase blocks and the fragrance delicately releases a

gossamer-fine cloud of perfume for you to smell and consider. The fragrances installed in the Vase des Senteur are the Ex Nihilo perfumes available for ‘personalisations.’ This is the term used for the company’s bespoke service, where the customer combines one of the scents available in the Vase des Senteurs with other combinations that the Ex Nihilo team has prepared for a potential perfect match. The fragrances available for personalisations are: Fleur Narcotique (Ex Nihilo’s first and most famous fragrance), Venenum Kiss (an elegant and feminine mix of amber, suede, rose and saffron), Oud Vendôme (a contemporary oud made of Agarwood), Bois d’Hiver (a woody fragrance with a musk heart), Musc Infini (an homage to musk), Rose Hubris (a tribute to the Rose of May of Grasse), Cologne 352 (a Parisian cologne), Vetiver Moloko (a woody fragrance with notes of vetiver) and Jasmin Fauve (a feminine mixture of jasmine and leather). After you have chosen between one of those fragrances the assistants will encourage you try all the four combinations that the Ex Nihilo team has ready for your selected base scent. I was drawn to the Rose Hubris fragrance and so Pauline, the lovely assistant that guided me in my experience, took me through four combinations with vanilla, rose, sandalwood and jasmine. I finally chose sandalwood because personally I found that it was an unusual blend between a spring fragrance and a more wintery one. And here comes the magic: the Ex Nihilo founders have patented the “Osmologue,” a machine that is able to mix scents in traditional alembics—a device for the separation of products by heating and cooling that was first used to make floral waters,

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essential oils and medicines. Pauline then put the two mixtures into a cup and pressed a button on the Osmologue—the scene reminded me of the factories of the 19th century, extremely revolutionary for their time, with their chimneys pumping out black smoke. Three minutes later and my fragrance was complete and ready to be bottled. As a customer, you can choose the bottle and also the cap, which come in different colours including brown, blue, white to black. Like the best of bespoke luxury goods, the experience is an integral part of the purchase. Ex Nihilo has created an exclusive personal treat combined with a compelling range of scents. Luxury item blended with personalised experience… it makes perfect sense.


S I M P L Y W E A LT H

Defined Value Diamonds:

An exceptional gift, for this generation and those to come . . .

A timeless gift of endless worth, Defined Value Diamonds are the bespoke gift of a lifetime for those most important to you.

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randdvd.com (1) 888 818 7552 / (int) (1) 646 669 7057

B

right, brilliant and sparkling, diamonds are considered to be the most beautiful natural creations on Earth. Pure crystalised carbon, the hardest natural substance known to humankind, they are not only beautiful, but also virtually indestructible. Coveted since the dawn of human civilisation not only for their beauty, but also for their tangible value, portability and meaning. Now capturing that unique essence in the form of an innovative, legacy gift are Defined Value Diamonds (DVDs). Founded on the diamond fields of South Africa in 1947 by patriarch Barney Laub, Rand Diamonds Inc. (Rand) became one of a select number of companies chosen more than 60 years ago to acquire rough diamonds for cutting and polishing directly from the mine source. Rand soon acquired a name for prestige trading, delivering cut and polished diamonds of the highest quality. Seven decades later, Rand continues to build on its wealth of experience as the source of exceptionally polished diamonds for some of the most prestigious retail stores in the world, and

it is this heritage and market position that is the foundation of Defined Value Diamonds (DVDs)—Rand’s newest innovation. What are DVDs? Diamonds polished to the highest standards and fully vetted, selected not only for beauty, but also future value, and all presented in their own diamond disc. The gift of a diamond has long held significant meaning. Aside from their stunning and captivating appearance, diamonds have an uninterrupted history as a solid financial investment. Unlike gold or stocks which are volatile and dependent on speculation, the price of diamonds is reassuringly steady showing an average of four to five per cent yearly incremental growth. Contrary to popular myth, the diamond market is the freest of markets; prices are purely based on supply and demand and operate in a self-correcting manner devoid of speculation. This free market has enabled quality diamonds to experience decades of stability and steady incremental price growth,

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Tripple vetted for assured quaity and value.

Encased in their own beautiful portable vault.

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randdvd.com (1) 888 818 7552 / (int) (1) 646 669 7057

The attraction to gifting a DVD—in addition to its value, timeless beauty and flawless appeal—is the flexibility that it offers. Hand-selected diamonds, encased in their own compact, beautiful, portable vault—a DVD disc—is a gift weighted with emotional significance. Much like a fine watch face, a DVD disc represents a loved one or memory of great meaning and value. In terms of financial value, a DVD disc (containing DVD diamonds) is hard to beat. The diamonds inside each disc are supplied at spot market price (the price a highend retailer would pay on that day for the same quality diamonds) and will grow in value with the diamond market. Each Rand DVD is triple vetted, GIA triple excellent graded, and selected to be of the qualities most globally in demand. This ensures that the diamond’s qualities are of the correct standards and are defined accurately. DVDs possess not only superior sparkle and brilliance, but also present and future market desirability and liquidity. Suited to the modern world where tailored possessions add a thoughtful, personal touch, each DVD disc is bespoke and configured with DVDs to meet each individual’s requirements. The disc itself is crafted out of your material of choice, whether that be the standard stainless steel, platinum, non-metallic, or some other material of your choice, the whole process from beginning to end is entirely custom-built.

Configured to an individual’s requirements, each diamond within a DVD disc is also gemprinted—a non-invasive process which uses light to obtain each diamond’s own unique fingerprint. This means that should a diamond be removed from a DVD disc and set in jewellery, its inherent characteristics and certification are easily determined; each diamond is easily identifiable, and its value—the then spot market price—and identity remains unaltered. Because of the standards inherent in any DVD, resale should it ever be desired is an easy process. To begin the tailoring process, simply contact Rand through the website or on phone, and one of the company principles will work with you directly to realise your definitive DVD gift. People are as different as the world around them, but DVD discs have universal appeal. Befitting of the 21st century zeitgeist, discs have both character and convenience, not to mention an aesthetic draw of their own. They can be kept for the right moment to impart as a gift or held on to for their appreciation and security. With each diamond in the disc matching its supplied certification, a DVD disc is the ultimate gift, symbolising love, providing security, and representing a gift of true worth to be cherished by those most important to you, and passed down through families and loved ones. A Defined Value Diamond is the ultimate gift of a lifetime.

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