Sailing the Black Sea

Suleymaniye Mosque domes

Sailing the Black Sea Round-Trip Istanbul Aboard Variety Voyager

September 24 – October 7, 2015 Paul Kennedy J. Richardson Dilworth Professor of History

Dear Yale Traveler

Sümela Monastery fresco

I’ve been intrigued with the Black Sea region ever since I read John Buchan’s exciting World War I thriller, Greenmantle, way back in my English high school. Our images of the fighting during the Great War are all about the Western Front—the Yale American pilots, the Battle of the Atlantic, General Pershing’s Army, Woodrow Wilson.

But there were no less epic campaigns, on land and at sea, along the great lengths of the Eastern Front—in the Black Sea, the Caucasus, and out of Istanbul itself. On the first day of this program, we actually follow the route of the German battle cruisers as they steamed out of the Golden Horn to attack southern Russia and bring

Museum façade, Constanta

about the Turkish-Russian fighting in November 1914! We will sail into the strategically contested port of Batumi, visit Georgia, and anchor in the estuary of the Danube.

What I’m trying to convey is that this is not your standard “call in a port, visit a museum” cruise, but one that has a strong historical theme to it as well: no less than the struggle of the two great traditional eastern empires of Imperial Russia and Ottoman Turkey, in the last throes of their old order. After the war is over, these will be vanished worlds, replaced by Bolshevik Russia and Ataturk’s modern Turkey. But the palaces, the harbors, the forts, and the seas remain for us to inspect and admire.

I’ll be speaking about this larger-than-life period in recent history, complementing lectures on the more remote past by Sarah Graff, The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s fine expert on Near East archaeology. Please call 203-432-1952 to hold your space or visit https://ivy.yale.edu/yet/programs/10264 to register today.

Sincerely yours, Paul Kennedy J. Richardson Dilworth Professor of History Director, International Security Studies

www.yaleedtravel.org/programs/10264

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Tiled archway, Nessebar

Yale Study Leader paul kennedy Paul Kennedy, the J. Richardson Dilworth Professor of History, Director of International Security Studies at Yale, and Distinguished Fellow of the Brady-Johnson Program in Grand Strategy, coordinates the ISS programs funded by the Smith Richardson Foundation. He is internationally known for his writings and commentaries on global political, economic, and strategic issues.

Wall painting, Voronets Monastery

Professor Kennedy is a Fellow of the Royal Historical Society, the American Philosophical Society, and the American Academy of Arts and Sciences.

He was made Commander of the Order of the British Empire (C.B.E.) in 2000 for services to History and elected a Fellow of the British Academy in June 2003.

He is on the editorial board of numerous scholarly journals and writes for The New York Times, The Atlantic, and many foreign-language newspapers and magazines. Kennedy’s monthly column on current global issues is distributed worldwide by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate/Tribune Media Services.

He is the author or editor of nineteen books, including The Rise of the Anglo-German Antagonism, The War Plans of the Great Powers, The Realities Behind Diplomacy, and Preparing for the Twenty-First Century. His bestknown work is The Rise and Fall of the Great Powers (Random House), which provoked an intense debate on its publication in 1988 and has been translated into over twenty languages. Professor Kennedy has completed a book on operational history of the Second World War and is beginning a study of Rudyard Kipling.

Highlights Immerse yourself in the rich history and culture of the Black Sea region with lectures by Paul Kennedy, J. Richardson Dilworth Professor of History and Director of International Security Studies, and a curator from The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Join an exclusive visit by chartered plane to Romania’s 16th-century painted churches, including the Church of Moldovita and Voronets Monastery, which has been called “the Sistine Chapel of the East.”

Spend time on the

Russian Riviera in Sochi, to visit Stalin’s summer villa and the Olympic facilities in nearby Adler, with an optional afternoon excursion to an alpine resort in the Western Caucasus.

Upcoming Trips Treasures of Northern Italy June 7 to 15, 2015 Lawrence Manley, English Department The Hidden Faces of Mongolia & Tibet July 27 to August 11, 2015 Stephen Davis, Professor of Religious Studies Legendary Heroes, Lost Empires Istanbul, Gallipoli & Troy September 24 - October 4, 2015 Jay Winter, Charles J. Stille Professor of History For additional information on all YET programs, please visit www.yaleedtravel.org

Yale Educational Travel Association of Yale Alumni Box 209010, New Haven, CT 06520-9010 Reservations: 203.432.1952 edtravel@yale.edu

from the period. Continue to the 11thcentury Bagrati Cathedral, which has recently undergone a controversial renovation. After lunch, admire the collections of the State Historical Museum before returning to Variety Voyager. Dinner this evening features Georgian wines.

Suceava

MOLDOVA UKRAINE Crimea

RUSSIA

ROMANIA Constanta

Sochi

Varna

Black Sea

BULGARIA

GEORGIA

Nessebar

Batumi

From New York To New York

Istanbul

TURKEY

Amasya

Trabzon

Itinerary NEW YORK Thursday, September 24

Depart New York on an overnight flight to Istanbul.

ISTANBUL , TURKEY

museum, and admire the traditional Ottoman houses along the river. You may wish to climb the steps to see the Pontus royal tombs carved into the rock cliffs before lunch.

TR ABZON, TURKEY

Friday, September 25

Monday, September 28

Arrive in Istanbul this morning.

Following lunch, see the impressive 6th-century basilica of Hagia Sophia before continuing to the pier to board Variety Voyager. Enjoy a champagne toast on deck as we cruise the Bosphorus, past historic palaces and colorful yalis (villas), and under two bridges that link Europe and Asia.

Tonight we enter the Black Sea.

Step ashore in Trabzon, long an important trading port on the Black Sea. Drive to the Sümela Monastery, built in the 4th century on the side of a steep mountain. In the afternoon, visit the villa where Kemal Ataturk stayed, now dedicated to him. The city’s late-Byzantine Hagia Sophia, converted from a church to a mosque, houses examples of vibrant frescoes and Islamic reliefs.

AT SEA Saturday, September 26

During a day at sea, relax on deck, enjoy the amenities of our ship, and attend lectures about upcoming visits.

SA MSUN, TURKEY Sunday, September 27

From Samsun, drive to the charming city of Amasya, situated in a deep river gorge. The capital of the kings of Pontus from 333 to 26 B.C., Amasya was later part of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires. Explore the 15thcentury mosque and the archaeological

SOCHI, RUSSIA Wednesday, September 30

Samsun

BATUMI, GEORGIA

Arrive today in Sochi, host city of the 2014 Winter Olympics. See Stalin’s fascinating summer villa—painted green for camouflage—and visit the impressive Olympic facilities in nearby Adler. This afternoon sample local teas and snacks at a charming chalet in the hills, or drive into the Caucasus Mountains to the ski resort of Krasnaya Polyana, popular in summer for hiking, horseback riding, and other outdoor activities. With extensive areas of forests, the Western Caucasus has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

AT SEA Thursday, October 1

As Variety Voyager crosses the Black Sea to Romania, you may wish to visit the captain on the bridge or relax with a good book. Attend lectures in preparation for our visits on the western coast.

CONSTANTA , ROM ANIA

Tuesday, September 29

Friday, October 2

With its tree-lined thoroughfares and mild weather, Batumi is a popular seaside destination with an air of finde-siècle elegance. Stroll through the peaceful Botanical Gardens and see works by Georgian artists at the Adjara Arts Museum. After lunch, discover the city’s fanciful architecture on a walking tour. Alternatively, take a fullday excursion to Kutaisi, the country’s second city, to visit the 12th-century Gelati Monastery and Academy, still housing mosaics and wall paintings

Arrive in Constanta and fly by chartered plane to Suceava. Drive through the bucolic Romanian countryside, passing horse-drawn carts and farmers, to Humor Monastery. Built in 1530, the church is the first in this region painted by refugee Byzantine artists, illustrated with biblical scenes and a depiction of the fall of Constantinople. At the Church of Moldovita, from 1532, view the vibrant blues and reds, and the fascinating exterior paintings. Following lunch, see Voronets Monastery, where

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the captivating blue hue of the frescoes has become famous as “the blue of Voronets.” Return by chartered plane to Constanta and the awaiting Variety Voyager. Dinner is on board.

CONSTANTA Saturday, October 3

The Danube Delta area is home to rare birds and wildlife, including Europe’s largest pelican colony. On a morning excursion into the delta region by small craft, discover the unique flora and fauna. Following lunch, see the remains of a Roman floor mosaic dating from the 4th century and tour Constanta’s National History and Archaeology Museum, with its collection of Greek, Romanian, Byzantine, and medieval objects.

VARNA , BULGARIA Sunday, October 4

Drive to Veliki Preslav, capital of the Bulgarian Empire in the 9th century, to visit the ruins of the medieval Round Church. Also known as the Golden Church, its interiors were decorated with mosaics, ceramics, and marble.

We will also stop at the Archaeological Museum housing gold, silver, and bronze jewelry from the era, some of which appeared in the Met’s “Glory of Byzantium” exhibit in 1997. After lunch, see the ruins of the royal palace at Pliska before returning to Variety Voyager. Those who wish to remain in Varna today will tour the impressive Archaeological Museum and sample local wines before a free afternoon.

NESSEBAR, BULGARIA Monday, October 5

Step ashore in Nessebar, whose Byzantine ruins and picturesque fishermen’s houses have long attracted artists and poets. Admire the richly decorated churches on a guided walking tour and enjoy free time in town. Return to the ship for lunch and an afternoon sail to Istanbul.

ISTANBUL Tuesday, October 6

Today explore the magnificent city of Istanbul, including the Great Palace Mosaic Museum and Rustem Pasha, one of the most exquisite Ottoman mosques by the 16th-century architect Sinan. The afternoon is free, perhaps to visit the Spice Market or the new Istanbul Modern. An optional visit to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts will be offered (pending reopening). Gather this evening for the captain’s farewell reception and dinner.

ISTANBUL / NEW YORK Wednesday, October 7

Disembark Variety Voyager in the morning and transfer to the airport for the return flights home. Or continue on the optional postlude to Cappadocia.

OPTIONAL POSTLUDE IN CAPPADOCIA October 7–10, 2015 Balloons over Cappadocia

Spend three nights in Cappadocia’s moonlike landscape of fairy chimneys and troglodyte villages. Once part of the Hittite Empire, the area has been inhabited for thousands of years.

Marvel at the painted cave churches of the Göreme Open Air Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Visit a beautifully restored ancient caravanserai to witness a whirling dervish ceremony, inspired by the 13th-century mystical Sufi poet Rumi, and enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Cappadocia’s unique topography on an optional hot-air balloon ride.

Accommodations are at the Argos in Cappadocia Hotel, built on the site of an ancient monastery.

What is Included: • Enrichment program of lectures

by Yale Professor Paul Kennedy and other speakers, as well as special events • Twelve nights accommodations aboard Variety Voyager • All meals during the cruise; complimentary wine with lunch and dinner • Sightseeing via private motorcoach and chartered flight, as per itinerary, with local English-speaking guides • Entrance fees for all included visits • Airport / pier / airport group transfers • Taxes, service, and porterage charges; port charges; gratuities aboard and ashore • Medical evacuation insurance through Frontier Medex What is Not Included:

International airfare; passport and visa fees; alcoholic beverages other than wine at lunches and dinners; personal items and expenses; airport transfers for those not on group flights; baggage in excess of one suitcase; trip insurance; optional postlude in Cappadocia; any other items not specifically mentioned as included.

OPTIONAL POSTLUDE CAPPADOCIA $1,860 per person Single supplement $525 Includes three nights at the Argos in Cappadocia Hotel, three lunches, and one dinner.

Internal flights Istanbul / Cappadocia / Istanbul.

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VARIETY VOYAGER

Terms & Conditions

HORIZONS DECK

301

303

305

AIRFARE Academic Arrangements Abroad (AAA) will be pleased to assist with air travel arrangements for this program, including specially negotiated group airfare when available, suggested flights, or individual requests, for a processing fee of $40 per person. Complete details will be provided in your confirmation mailing.

307

DINING ROOM

302

304

306

308

RIVIERA DECK RECEPTION

201 203 205 207 209 211

213 215

MAIN LOUNGE BAR

202

204

206 208 210 212 214

MARINA DECK SPA & GYM

LIBRARY

101 103 105

102

104

107

106

109 111

113

108 110

112

C R U IS E R A T E S

(Per Person, Double Occupancy) Cabins Decks Rates Cabins 108 to 113 Marina Deck $9,995 Staterooms, double bed or twin beds Cabins 101 to 107 Marina Deck $10,995 Staterooms, double bed or twin beds Cabins 212 to 215 Riviera Deck $11,495 Staterooms, double bed or twin beds Cabins 201 to 211 Riviera Deck $12,995 Staterooms, double bed or twin beds Cabins 301 to 306 & 308 Horizons Deck $14,995 Master Staterooms, double bed or twin beds Cabin 307 Horizons Deck $16,995 Owner’s Suite, double bed Cabins are available for single occupancy at a supplement of 30% to 100% of the cruise rate.

VARIETY VOYAGER AMENITIES Christened in 2012, the luxury M.Y. Variety

Voyager is built according to the most up-to-date international standards. Relax in the main lounge, enjoy a drink on the sun deck or use the internet in the library.

The glass-enclosed dining room features panoramic views and an al fresco option, while the spa and gym offer massage, fitness equipment, and a sauna. All cabins have DVD players, flat-screen televisions, and bathrooms with marble finishing.

Variety Voyager does not have an elevator.

PAYMENT SCHEDULE A deposit of $2,500 per person, payable to Academic Arrangements Abroad, of which $350 is nonrefundable for administrative fees, is required with the reservation application. To register for this program, please visit www.yaleedtravel.org/ programs/10264. Alternatively, please mail the deposit and completed registration form to: The Association of Yale Alumni, Yale Educational Travel.

HEALTH All participants must be in good health.

This program involves extensive walking over uneven surfaces, climbing stairs at monuments and other locations not handicapped accessible, and climbing in and out of various conveyances including tenders.

Any condition that may require assistance or special medical attention must be reported at the time of your reservation. Please note: Variety Voyager does not have an elevator.

INSURANCE Yale Educational Travel highly recommends that participants purchase travel insurance as the cancellation policy will apply. However, Yale does not recommend a particular insurance company and Yale travelers are free to purchase the insurance of their choice. There is usually a short window of time (7-21 days from the first payment date) when one can purchase travel insurance and still be covered for certain provisions (such as pre-existing conditions).

If travel insurance is important to you, please do not wait to purchase insurance.

CHANGES IN ITINERARY & COSTS The itinerary is subject to change at the discretion of AAA and the Association of Yale Alumni (AYA). All prices quoted are based on prevailing fuel prices, airfares, and currency exchange rates in effect at the time of brochure printing and are subject to change without notice. Deviations from the scheduled itinerary are at the expense of the individual.

RESPONSIBILITY CLAUSE The participation of AYA is limited to educational sponsorship of the program described in this brochure (The Program). AAA acts only as an agent for the participant with respect to transportation, accommodations, and all other services, relating to The Program. AAA, AYA, and/or their agents assume no responsibility or liability for any act, error, or omission, or for any injury, loss, accident, delay, or irregularity which may be occasioned by reason of any defect in any aircraft, ship, train, bus, or other carrier, or through neglect or default of any subcontractor or other third party, which may be used wholly or in part in the performance of their duty to the participants of The Program. The passage ticket issued by the carrier is the sole contract between the participant and the carrier. Nor will AAA or AYA and/or their agents be responsible for loss, injury, damages, or expenses to persons or property, due to illness, weather, strikes, local laws, hostilities, wars, terrorist acts, acts of nature, or other such causes in connection with The Program or anything beyond their reasonable control. AAA is not responsible for transportation or other program delays and changes, nor additional expenses or loss of time that may be incurred. In the event it becomes necessary or advisable for the comfort or well-being of the participants, or for any reason whatsoever, to alter the itinerary at any time, without notice to the participants, such alterations will be made without penalty to AAA or AYA. Additional expenses, if any, shall be borne by the participants. Baggage and personal effects are the sole responsibility of the participant at all times. AAA and AYA reserve the right to accept or decline any person as a participant at any time,

RESERVE YOUR TRIP TO THE BLACK SEA TODAY

________

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Visit www.yaleedtravel.org/programs/10264 to book online Or return the form above, with credit card authorization or check payable to Academic Arrangements Abroad, to Yale Educational Travel, P.O. Box 209010, New Haven, CT 06520-9010 or fax to 203-432-0587. or to require any participant to withdraw from The Program at their own expense when such an action is determined by AAA or AYA to be in the best interest of the participant’s health and safety, or the general welfare of the other participants.

CANCELLATION POLICY AAA must strictly adhere to its cancellation policy to offset costs incurred prior to the commencement of The Program, which may include but are not limited to: advance payments to land operators; ship charters; communication expenses; development/ promotional expenses; and the loss of time that might have permitted resale of reserved space.

All cancellations must be made in writing to Yale Educational Travel, and are subject to a $350 non-refundable administrative fee. All refunds are limited to amounts actually received by AAA and are the sole responsibility of AAA; AYA shall have no liability for refunds. At the time AYA receives written notification of cancellation, the following cancellation charges will apply: cancellations received between 120 and 91 days prior to departure, 20 percent of the program cost per person; those received between 90 and 61 days before departure, 50 percent of the program cost per person; no

refunds will be given for cancellations received within 60 days of departure. No refunds are given for cancellation on or after the day of departure, or for unused portions of the tour, for any reason.

Air cancellation charges, if any, will be assessed in accordance with airline regulations. All group fare tickets must be issued no less than 30 days prior to departure. NOTE: Neither AAA nor AYA shall be liable for any airline cancellation penalties incurred by the purchase of a non-refundable ticket. In the case of a cancellation due to shortage of participants, AAA will attempt to notify all participants at least 45 days prior to departure.

However, AAA reserves the right to cancel The Program prior to departure for any reason and, in such case, reimbursement of refundable costs of the trip by AAA shall constitute full settlement with the participant. In the unlikely event that a dispute arises between a participant and AAA or AYA, the following conditions will apply: (a) the dispute will be settled by binding arbitration administered by the American Arbitration Association in New York, NY; (b) the dispute will be governed by New York Law; (c) the maximum amount of recovery to which a participant shall be entitled under any and all circumstances will be the sum of all monies

actually received from the participant by AAA. The participant agrees that this is a fair and reasonable limitation on the damages, of any sort whatsoever, that a participant may suffer. Upon payment of the deposit to AAA, the participant agrees to be bound by the above terms and conditions.

AUTHORITY TO USE IMAGES AND AUDIO RECORDINGS On occasion, Yale Educational Travel obtains, from its staff or from trip participants, photographic or video images of passengers and trip activities. By participating in this travel program, you authorize Yale Educational Travel, without providing compensation to you, or obtaining additional approvals from you, to include photographic and video recordings of you, as well as voice recordings included with any videos, in YET’s sales, marketing, advertising, publicity and/ or training activities.

Discover the Black Sea on an extraordinary voyage

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PAID

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Association of Yale Alumni Box 209010 New Haven, Connecticut 06520-9010

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Sailing the Black Sea

Round-Trip Istanbul Aboard Variety Voyager

September 24 – October 7, 2015

Paul Kennedy J. Richardson Dilworth Professor of History Nessebar, Bulgaria

Explore hidden gems in Turkey, Georgia, Romania, and Bulgaria.

Discover the Danube Delta, a UNESCO-designated area that is home to rare birds, wildlife, and flora, on a morning excursion by small craft.

Iznik tiles