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ÎÑÅÒÈßÀËÀÍÈß Ñêèôû èñ÷åçëè íå áåññëåäíî: èõ ïîñëåäíèìè ïîòîìêàìè ÿâëÿþòñÿ ÷åðåç àëàí êàâêàçöû-îñåòèíû Жорж Дюмезиль, Действительный член Французской академии надписей и изящной словесности
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Может просто расступились горы, Заиграло солнце на тропе, И родился этот край, который Так и не сумею я воспеть. Мне не уместить во фразе чинной Бег и клокотание реки… Скалы здесь, как люди, не речисты, Люди здесь, как скалы, высоки. 3
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UDK 77.04(474.5)(084) Va 275
Фотограф и составитель
Антанас ВАРАНКА
Заслуженный деятель искусств РСО-Алания
Художник
Римантас ДИХАВИЧЮС Заслуженный деятель искусств РСО-Алания
Компьютерный дизайн и верстка
Лаймис КОСЯВИЧЮС Автор текстов к иллюстрациям
Людмила ГАБОЕВА
Директор государственного учреждения «Наследие Алании»
Издательство
Вильнюс 2016
ISBN 978-9955-9437-9-2
© Антанас Варанка 2016 © Римантас Дихавичюс 2016
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170 Вид на гору Казбек. 5033,8 м 156
1 Necropolis near Dzyvghis village. A view on Kadargavan Canyon, the narrowest spot of the Kurtat Ravine 2 Uastyrdzhy Sanctuary – the Temple of Saint George at Dzyvghis village. 11th-13th centuries 3 Fiagdon River. Peaks Donchenta and Syrkh-Barzond. 4192 m, 4148 m 4 – 7 Tomb-stones at Tsymyti village 8, 9 Tomb-stones monuments at Kora village in Digoria 10 Monument to 123 Kurtat Ravine inhabitants, who perished in the fronts of the Great Patriotic War. Sculptor D. A. Tsoraev 11 Medieval fortress in the spur of the Mountain Kariu at the entrance to the Kurtat Ravine, Dzivgis village 12 Ancient village Ualashykh. Zeykalan Peak. 4244 m 13 View on Kurtat Ravine from the height of Tsymyti village 14 Back to the plains from alpine pastures. Fiagdon Ravine. October 15 Tsymyti village, the largest craft and trade centre in medieval Ossetia. Agkatsaty, Basaty, Talkhanty, Eloity, Dzuskaty family towers 16 Crypts above Tsymyti village, and the Gabisaty family towers with Kariu in the background. Kurtat Ravine 17 Medieval crypt-cemetary «Town of the Dead» with the Tbau mountain range in the bacground. Dargavsh village 18 Darghavsh Necropolis. At the background the tower of the Tulatov-Alikov 19 – 21 Karmadon Gorge. The surging Kolka Glacier. August 2003 22 A road from Darghavsh Hollow via Kakadur Pass to the Kurtat Ravine. In the background Kariu-khokh. 3439 m 23 The outskirts of Dzuarikau village. May 24 «Atsyrukhs» at the northern entrance to Vladikavkaz. Sculptor B. A. Totiev, architect A. T. Tokazov 25 Peace Avenue, the protected historical zone in Vladikavkaz 26 Mutual Credit Society, architectural monument. 1902. Architect P. P. Schmidt. Today it is siting the National Home for Veterans 27, 28 Russian Academic Ye. B. Vakhtangov Theatre, one of the oldest in North Caucasus. Theatre hall. 1870. Architect V. Rusanovsky 29 Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Ossetian), the most sacred place in Vladikavkaz. Founded by the Ossetian Clerical Commission. A stone building dating to 1861 30 Russian-Asian Bank, an architectural monument. 1912. Architect V. V. Grozmani 31 Iconostasis at the Ossetian Church 32 Mozdok icon of Our Lady 33 Icon of the Great Martyr Saint George the Victorious 34, 36 Cathedral of the Great Martyr Saint George the Victorious in Vladikavkaz. Architect Yu. A. Naniev 35 November 24, 2002, the first service at Vladikavkaz Church of Saint George 37 Armenian Apostolic Church of Saint George the Enlightener. Founded in 1843. A stone building dating to 1864 38 Altar icon «Our Lady with the Infant Jesus». 1903. Artist K. Nshanyan 39 M. S. Tughanov. «The Feast of Nards». 1950-1952, canvas, oil, 265х500. From the collection of the National M. S. Tughanov Art Museum 40 National M. S. Tughanov Art Museum, Pease Avenue 41 Art gallery, Peace Avenue 42 The facade fragment of the Art Museum 43 The ethnographic exhibition 44 Interior fragment 45 Halls of the Art Museum of M. S. Tughanov 46 «Kosta». 1956. Artist Azanbek Dzhanaev (1920-1991), canvas, oil, 280х160 47 Monument to Y. B. Vakhtangov, the prominent theatre figure, Vladikavkaz-born. Sculptor S. T. Tavasiev. 2013 48 «Nard Players». Sculptor I. V. Khaev. 2010 49 K. L. Khetagurov Museum of Ossetian Literature. The front door 50 View on the Terek River embankment from the Cast-Iron Bridge 51 The House of the Government of the Republic of Ossetia – Alania 52 Vladikavkaz Mayor’s Office 53 Fountains in the north-western district of the capital 54 South-western district of the capital. Arau-khokh in the background. Rocky Ridge 55 Vladikavkaz in the evening. Terek River embankment 56 Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Ossetian) 57 The lights of Vladikavkaz 58 Sunnite mosque in Vladikavkaz. 1908. Architect I. G. Ploshko, artist F. I. Dolezhal 59 The interior of the Sunnite mosque 60 Campus of K. L. Khetagurov North-Ossetian State University 13 61 High-relief «The Old Town». 1994. Sculptor Z. Sh. Tsaritov 157
62 Monument to K. L. Khetagurov, the prominent poet and public figure of Ossetia. Sculptor S. D. Tavasiev, architect I. G. Gainutdinov. Erected in 1955 on the square in front of V. V. Tkhapsaev North-Ossetian State Academic Theatre 63 V. V. Tkhapsaev Museum of Theatre Art 64 Opera and Ballet Theatre of North Ossetia 65 Children and Youth State Theatre «Shabi» 66 Embankment of Vladikavkaz 67, 68 Art works of «Guriaty» Firm 69 North-Caucasian daggers. End of the 19th – beginning of the 20th century 70 The Glory Avenue in the capital of the Republic 71 Monument to the victims of terror. Sculptor M. M. Shemyakin. Erected on the territory of North-Caucasian Mining and Metallurgical Institute (STU) 72 Monument to the hostages who perished during the Beslan school massacre. Erected in 2005 on the territory of the Memorial of Glory 73 «The Tree of Sorrow». Sculptors Z. Ch. Dzenagov, A. P. Korneev. Erected in 2005 on the memorial cemetery for the victims of the Beslan tragedy 74 Monument to the seven brothers: Magomet, Khadzismel, Dzarakhmet, Makharbek, Khasanbek, Sozryko, and Shamil Gazdanty, who perished during the Great Patriotic War. Erected in 1975 near Dzuarikau village. Sculptor S. P. Sanakoev 75 Monument to Army General Issa Pliev, Twice Hero of the Soviet Union. 1997. Sculptors B. А. Totiev, N. V. Khodov; architect I. G. Kazbekov 76 Composition «The Defence Line of Vladikavkaz in 1942». Architect O. Kh. Karakishiev. 2002 77 Memorial complex «City of Military Glory» at the entrance to Vladikavkaz from the western side. 2010 78 Monument to Pyotr Barbashov, the commander of the 34th motorized infantry regiment who, during the battle on the approaches to Vladikavkaz, covered the embrasure of the enemy’s weapon emplacement with his own body. 1983. Sculptor B. A. Totiev, architects R. R. Kozyrev, N. V. Khodov. At Gizel village 79 The Memorial of Fame 80 Monument to Dzaug Bugulov, the founder of Dzudzhikau-Vladikavkaz. Sculptor S. Т. Tavasiev. 2007 81 Composition, dedicated to the 230th anniversary of Ossetia’s joining to Russia. Sculptors Z. Ch. Dzanagov, А. А. Kuchiev, S. Т. Таvasiev, G. А. Sabeev 82 Monument «Friendship of Nations» commemorating the 200th anniversary of Ossetia’s joining to Russia. 1982. Sculptors Ch. U. Dzanagov, S. P. Sanakoev, М. О. Tsarikaev, architect А. V. Arapov 83 North-Caucasian multi-profiled medical centre in Beslan, one of the biggest in the south of Russia 84 Monument to archpriest Akso (Aleksey) Koliev (1823-1866), the prominent enlightener and public figure. 2000. Sculptors R. S. Dzhanaev, B. А. Totiev, architect О. Х. Каrakashiev 85 «Imperial» Hotel, existing from 1899 86 Peace Avenue. Grand-Hotel «Alexandrovski» 87 «Moskva» and «Vladikavkaz», the major complex of hotels in the Republic 88 «Kavkazregiongaz» company office 89 Shopping centre «Fairy-tale» 90 Shop «Books», Dzhanaeva street, 20 91 Restaurant «КoYROI», Embankment of Vladikavkaz 92 Restaurant «Zhar-ptitsa», Embankment of Vladikavkaz 93, 94 «Spartak» Stadium 95 Grandfather and Grandson. The park sculpture by M. N. Dzboev. 1997 96 A square in the centre of the capital 97 Culture and Recreation Park of Kosta Khetagurov at Vladikavkaz is one of the oldest parks in the South of Rusia 98, 99 The Church of Assumption in Alagir. 1853. Architect G. G. Gagarin. K. L. Khetagurov also participated in the paintings of the church in the eighties of the 19th century 100 The church interior 101 Iconostasis in the Ardon Church 102 The Church of the Great Martyr Saint George the Victorious in Ardon. 1901 103 The church interior. Completion of the iconostasis painting works 104 Tsar Gates at the Ardon Church 105 The Church of Blessed Virgin’s Nativity in Digora. 2003 106, 107 The branch of the National Bank in Ardon. 1999. Sculptor G. А. Sabeev 108 A mountainous panorama from the north-western entrance to Vladikavkaz 109 Road to the Digoria Gorge 110 Digoria Gorge. Kussu village 111 – 114 Wedding at Kussu village 158
115 Digoria Gorge. Buravidon Falls 116 «Digoria» tourist centre. The Taimazi Peak in the background 117 The Arau mountain range. 2611 m. Below the blossoming gardens of Upper Saniba village. May 118 The Beslan stud-farm named after Ali-Bek Kantemirov 119 Sunny fields 120 Ardon River at Unal village 121 Ursdon Ravine 122 Uastyrdzhy, the male travelers’s patron. 1995. Sculptor N. V. Khodov. High above the ancient sanctuary in the Nikhassk Pass, the Alagir Gorge 123 Holy grove of Khetag 124 Transcaucasian Highway (Ossetian Military Road) across the Main Caucasian Mountain-Range. Tunnel at the entrance to Mizur village 125 Watch-tower at Dagom village 126 Guardian Angel’s Sanctuary at Tsamad village. Alagir Ravine 127 The Nuzal village church. Early 14th century. The burial site of Tsar Bagatar, the outstanding statesman and military commander in the medieval Alania 128 Frescoes at the Nuzal Church. Artist Vola Tliag 129 John the Baptist. The upper part of the altar 130 Pontiff Roman. The lower part of the altar 131 Our Lady Mary. The upper part of the altar 132 An old cemetery in the village Lower Zaramag. Zaramagskaya Basin 133 Transcaucasian Highway (Ossetian Military Road) at Zintsar village 134, 135 Views on Mamison Ravine 136 View on Lisri village and Lagatkomydon River. The fortifications and residential complexes of Darchity, Mourauty and Kuchiety families 137 The Church of Our Blessed Lady at Lisri village. 1901 138 Mamisondon Valley with Lisri village in the distance 139, 140 Archaeological excavations of the mound of the Middle Bronze Age (1700–1500 BC) at Kardzin village 141 Collection at the National Museum of the Republic of North Ossetia – Alania. Bronze artworks and gold decorations of the Koban and Alan Epoch. 1000 B.C. – A.D. 156 142 The silver belt badges (Sassanid Iran, 6th c.) from Alan catacomb burial ground near Tarskoe village. The silver horse phaleras and brow bands from the Alan catacomb burial ground of the 8th-9th cc. at Dargavs village 143 Clay vessels, stone axes and a mace of the Early and Middle Bronze Age. 3rd – 2nd millennium B.C. 144 Bronze axes. Koban culture. 1st millennium B.C. 145 The Sunny valley. Threshold of Darial («Dari-Alan») – the Alan Gates 146 Entrance to the Darial Ravine. The ancient pass road to Transcaucasia, since the 19th century given the name of the Georgian Military Road 147 River Terek valley at Balta village 148 Sunny valley – Arvykom. The Georgian Military Road 149 Flowers in Zrug Ravine. The beginning of August 150 Slas village. In the clouds – the Mountain Tepli. Below in the. Potyphaz locality – the Georgian Church. 1878. Restored in 2003 151 Nar village, the birthplace of Kosta Khetagurov 152 Tsey Ravine at sunrise 153 Tsey Ravine with the Monakh peak in the background. 2794 m 154 Upper Tsey village. View on Skaz Pass 155 All-Ossetian sanctuary Rekom at Tsey. Restored in 2000 156 Rag Uastyrdzhy sanctuary at Upper Tsey village. Restored in 2001 157 Painting «The Ceremony of Sworn Brotherhood». Artist A. V. Dzhanaev 158 Mady Mairam (Mother Mary) sanctuary at Tsey 159 The tomb-stone monument to Zadu Dzalaeva in the cemetery of Upper Tsey village. 1910 160 Holy Trinity Church in Upper Tsey village. 1868 161 Uilpata Peak. 4649 m. Tsey Ravine 162 The mountain tourists in the walking-tour 163 The mountain-climbers, who ascended Everest in1995. From left to right: Yuri Proaev, Kazbek Khamitsaev (expedition leader), Fyodor Shuliev 164 Descending a steep rock-wall 165 – 167 Tourist centre «Tsey-3» 168 Cableway. Skazka Glacier 169 A mountain-skier 170 The Kazbek Mount. 5033.8 m 159
UDK 77.04(474.5)(084) Va 275
Об авторах альбома ОСЕТИЯ–АЛАНИЯ АНТАНАС ВАРАНКА
Фотограф, путешественник, альпинист, поднявшийся более чем на 80 вершин в горных массивах Тянь–Шаня, Памира, Кавказа, в том числе и на вершины Осетии–Алании, мастер спорта. Был инструктором по альпинизму и горнолыжному спорту в ущельях Цея и Дигории, альплагерях Центрального и Западного Кавказа. Член союза фотохудожников Литовской Республики. «Осетия–Алания» – восьмой авторский альбом. РИМАНТАС ДИХАВИЧЮС
Художник и фотограф. Заслуженный деятель искусств Литвы и РСО-Алания. Иллюстрировал и оформил более двухсот изданий. Выставлялся во многих странах. Автор всемирно известного фотоальбома «Цветы среди цветов». В годы молодости тоже испытал тяжесть рюкзака альпиниста.
Автор текстов к иллюстрациям Людмила Габоева. Автор стихотворения – народный поэт Осетии Ирина Георгиевна Гуржибекова. Автор фотографий № 34, 48, 71-73, 77, 80, 81, 83, 87-92 Алан Агаев. Автор фотографий № 26, 64, 79, 86, 91, 92 Владимир Майоров. (согласно изд. договору № 8 от 15 июля 2013 г.)
Автор фотографий № 123 Владислав Посохов.
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ISBN 978-9955-9437-9-2
Типография STANDARTŲ SPAUSTUVĖ Вильнюс, Литва
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