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County. Ideally located within easy driving distance of Stillwater and downtown St. Paul and Minneapolis, White Oaks Savanna offers
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C O N T E N T S
F E AT U R E
ILLUSTRATION BY HENRY RIVERS
127 FLYING HIGH The travel styles of the rich and famous.
I N E VE RY I S S U E 138 PROPERTY GALLERY
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222 ADVERTISER INDEX
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224 TO BE FRANK
I TRUST DR. CRUTCHFIELD WITH MY SKIN
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C O N T E N T S
C U LT U R E 36 ART What’s next for Hennepin Theatre Trust.
38 ICON In search of the real Georgia O’Keeffe.
44 NICE RIDE Around town in the GMC Yukon XL Denali.
C O M PA S S
52 WELLNESS
82 DESTINATION
Putting halotherapy to the test.
An essential guide to the Big Easy.
54 ACCESSORY
89 EXCURSION
Why you need a passport holder.
A sojourn at Scotland’s Glenmorangie House.
56 Q+A
95 ISLAND
Cassandra Dittmer outfits Hollywood elite.
61 MENSWEAR Inside the art of bespoke suit making.
65 GUIDE What to buy now.
72 FASHION Inspired travel wear takes to the desert.
A Twin Cities architect designs a Sri Lanka inn.
98 BEACH Solaz stands out among a sea of Los Cabos resorts.
103 48 HOURS How to spend a weekend in Copenhagen.
109 CRUISE Experiencing the Baltic aboard the world’s most luxurious ship.
115 TOUR Desirable destinations the Artful Living way.
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY HUNTER BERRY, GLENMORANGIE AND THREE MARKS
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C O N T E N T S
INTEL 204 LIFESTYLE A deep dive into the graphic world of tattoos.
210 COLLECTION The Burns Archive is a most unusual collection.
215 HISTORY A who’s who of famous Mayo Clinic clients through the years.
A DVE N T U R E
165 BUILD
190 FARE
Denali Custom Homes creates a sophisticated family abode.
Chef Jon Wipfli hosts a winter oyster roast.
195 GETAWAY 169 CABIN An island lodge takes shape a stone’s throw from Lake Superior.
175 RENOVATION A restaurateur brings commercial efficiency home.
178 DESIGN DOM Interiors’ impressive Ascent system in action.
182 COMMUNITY White Oaks Savanna offers back-to-the-land living.
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Laura Schara’s favorite luxe sporting lodges.
199 EQUUS A look back at the nation’s largest horse rescue mission.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING AND T.THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY
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E D I T O R S T H E F R O M
Hayley Saunders: We all have our own way of traveling, which becomes abundantly clear when you take a trip with someone new. He might want to sightsee around town while you’d prefer to lounge on the beach. She might want to backpack through Europe while you’d opt to upgrade to cushier accommodations. Kate Nelson: The affluent, however, have a jet set style all their own. We at Artful Living have the unique opportunity to check out celebrity haunts, and last year while enjoying a long weekend at Utah’s exclusive Amangiri resort, I couldn’t help but wonder what stars might’ve set foot in my very suite. Turns out both Victoria Beckham and Amy Schumer had recently stayed there. Which got me thinking: Aren’t we all a bit curious to know how the rich and famous globetrot? HS: Our feature, “Flying High” (page 127), gives the inside scoop on where the well-to-do stay, showcases some of the craziest celebrity itineraries and even highlights the high jinks stars have gotten into at five-star hotels. It also outlines how far luxury travel has come over the past century, from the romance of road trips to the draw of owning your own island. KN: Famous figures have been flocking to Minnesota’s renowned Mayo Clinic for decades. In “Medical Marvel” (page 215), writer Torey Van Oot reveals details about some of the hospital’s most high-profile patients throughout history, from Muhammad Ali to Johnny and June Cash. HS: The rest of our winter issue is similarly dedicated to all things travel. In our style section, dreamy travel wear goes to the desert (page 72), plus we reveal the one accessory every globetrotter must have (page 54). KN: And in our adventure section, we tell the story of how a local nonprofit helped out in the nation’s largest rescue of horses (page 199), a cause near and dear to my heart. We hope this highly curated selection of original content helps inspire your next getaway. Happy reading,
Kate Nelson Executive Editor
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Hayley Saunders Managing Editor
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Contributors W RITERS: Ellen Burkhardt, Katie Dohman, Allison Duncan, Amber Gibson, Marguerite Happe, Julia Heffelfinger, Cinnamon Janzer, Wendy Lubovich, Linda Mack, Chris Plantan, Merritt Rethlake, Anne Roderique-Jones, Gina Samarotto, Laura Schara, Micki Sievwright, Torey Van Oot PHOTOG RAP H E RS : 2nd Truth, Vivienne Balla, Alex Bellus, Ralf Mitsch I LLUST RATOR: Henry Rivers
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Artful Living is published by Roffers Group, LLC, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without permission. Roffers Group, LLC cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. Artful Living is committed to preserving the environment and demonstrates this by printing efficiently and sustainably. In consideration of environmental impact, this magazine is 100-percent recyclable.
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P R I N T I N
On the Cover The artwork adorning our winter issue was created exclusively for Artful Living by talented British illustrator Henry Rivers, who has a love of travel and an eye for architecture. Although he lives in a quaint village near Bordeaux, France, he finds inspiration for his Travel Poster Co. brand in metropolises across the globe, from London to Copenhagen to New York City. His colorful, minimalist creations are modern interpretations of the travel posters of yore. He also lent his trademark vintage vibe to our feature, “Flying High” (page 127). To learn more about Rivers, visit travelposter.co.
About Artful Living, the Magazine of the North, is an elegant, intelligent publication highlighting art, culture, travel, fashion, home, food, wine and profiles meant to inspire and entertain. Founded in 2008, this quarterly magazine features beautiful design and engaging original content, bringing the best of the North to an affluent audience with impeccable taste. The Artful Living lifestyle brand is headquartered in Minneapolis.
Distribution Artful Living is mailed to a select group of homes and businesses in the North. It is also distributed through a number of key marketing partners, including Coldwell Banker Burnet, Delta Sky Club, Galleria and International Market Square. You can find Artful Living on newsstands at Barnes & Noble and Kowalski’s Markets.
Subscriptions To subscribe to Artful Living or order back issues, visit ArtfulLiving.com. For bulk copies, contact Kathleen Gildea at 952-230-3133 or kgildea@artfulliving.com.
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O N L I N E
Whether you’re aiming to embrace or escape the winter season, fear not. We’ve got you covered when it comes to keenly keeping up with the worlds of art, style, travel, food and drink, and much, much more. Make ArtfulLiving.com your go-to online destination in the pursuit of living your best luxury life. And never miss a moment by subscribing to our newsletter, the Artful Note.
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Winter 2019
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Culture
ART
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AL PROMOTION
State of the Arts
Hennepin Theatre Trust has one of the largest public art and
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVEN LANG
placemaking programs in the country, largely thanks to its downtown Minneapolis real-estate revitalization project, Made Here. The initiative, which celebrated its five-year anniversary last fall, transformed the area through window art installed in vacant spaces. “It started as a way to utilize art and culture to activate a space that we could make accessible to everyone,” explains Director of Placemaking WHAT’S NEXT FOR HENNEPIN THEATRE and Public Art Joan Vorderbruggen. its inception, 13 commercial TRUST’S MADE HERE INITIATIVE. Since spaces with a combined vacancy of BY MERRITT RETHLAKE 50 years have been rented. “We’re seeing transformation through larger properties in particular,” she adds, pointing to the success of Block E and City Center. The project found success not just in its repurposing of unused spaces or its hiring of a diverse group of 350-plus artists, but also in its cultivation of a cultural crossroads. “The fact that we’re able to pair these artists with businesses to showcase art addressing issues that the community faces is huge,” says Vorderbruggen. So much so that, due to popular demand, she and her team are making the process even more turnkey so that similar programs can be easily implemented across the country. “We’re being recognized as a national leader in the public art and placemaking realm,” explains Media Relations Manager Dale Stark. As downtown Minneapolis windows fill, Stark assures this is by no means the end of Made Here. Hennepin Theatre Trust plans to launch a spring initiative that will be even larger and will involve different media. “Hennepin Avenue between Fifth and 10th is our new stage,” hints Vorderbruggen. “All we can say about the next iteration of Made Here is this: You’ll have to look up.”
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Culture
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ICON
Artful Living
Compass
XXXXX
Revealing the real
GEORGIA O’KEEFFE SEEING THE FAMED ARTIST THROUGH THE LENS OF HER UNASSUMING WISCONSIN HOMETOWN.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN LOENGARD
BY E L L E N B U R K H A R DT
Winter 2019
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Culture
ICON
The sign marking Georgia Totto O’Keeffe’s birthplace is even more unremarkable than the corn and soybean fields surrounding it. Discreetly tucked away near the intersection of Town Hall Drive and County Highway T, some three and a half miles southeast of downtown Sun Prairie, Wisconsin, it is dark blue with plain white lettering and so modest that I don’t notice it the first time I drive by. Or the second. In fact, it requires a third pass — at a speed that no doubt infuriates the drivers of the pickup truck and the tractor stuck behind me — for me to spot it. Pulling over into the ditch, I get out to read it: Birthplace of Georgia O’Keeffe, Artist, Born Nov. 15, 1887. No mention of the huge impact this icon of feminism and 20th century art had during her lifetime. No note that the farmhouse that used to stand here, the farmhouse where she was born, burned down in November 1976, or that she passed away on March 6, 1986. Which leads me to me wonder: Is Sun Prairie not proud of its most famous daughter? Stepping into the Sun Prairie Historical Library and Museum quickly answers that question. More than 150 O’Keeffe prints fill the walls of the red brick building. Intermixed amongst the art — mostly the oversize flowers and desertscapes for which she became famous — are photographs, letters, books and all the other paraphernalia one would expect from a museum proudly paying homage to a luminary who once called its small city home. But Sun Prairie hasn’t always celebrated its ties to O’Keeffe. It wasn’t until 1976, shortly after the farmhouse burned down, that city leaders decided to name a park after the artist who spent the first 16 years of her life here. Assuming she would appreciate the gesture, they invited her to the dedication and asked her to donate a painting. She said no to both. Rumors quickly spread about the impetus behind her rejection. Some concluded that she was embarrassed by her Northern roots. Others said they’d heard she’d attempted to forge a relationship with her hometown early in her career but had been rejected due to Freudian interpretations of her paintings as erotic (something she consistently denied). Although O’Keeffe never explained her rationale behind declining the offer, friend and longtime New York Times reporter Edith Evans Asbury rejected all the whisperings in 1987, explaining, “If they read up on her, they will find that O’Keeffe had a reason to refuse their 1976 invitation to visit. She was going blind. She was trying to keep it a secret.” But perhaps the truth is even simpler. Perhaps it’s just that, at heart, O’Keeffe was a Northerner who preferred solitude to celebrity, privacy to publicity. That was how she was raised by her independent mother, grandmother and aunts as well as the many forward-thinking women who helped shape her as a youth. And it was how she chose to live her life long after leaving Wisconsin in 1903.
O
n paper, the O’Keeffe clan looks like most 19th century farming families: first- and- second-generation European immigrants who sought prosperity in the fertile Midwest prairies. Georgia’s mother, Ida Totto, was the daughter of a Dutch woman who grew up in New York City and a Hungarian count forced to emigrate after the 1848 revolt. Her father, Francis Calyxtus O’Keeffe, was a first-generation Irishman, born and raised on a Sun Prairie farm less than a mile from the Totto family’s. Were this the whole story, Georgia’s life likely would have turned out far more ordinary than it did. As it was, Count Totto abandoned his family to return to Hungary, leaving his wife, Isabella, with their six children and the farm. Instead of remarrying, she packed up the kids, rented out the farm to the neighboring O’Keeffes and started a new life in Madison. There, she ran her household with a firm hand and a confident determination — traits that would be passed on to Georgia’s mother and eventually to Georgia.
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Ida and Francis married in 1884 and inherited a dairy farm that spanned more than 600 acres — the cumulation of the Totto and O’Keeffe properties. Unfortunately, Francis did not have a head for business, and by 1899, he had acquired so much debt that he was forced to rent out the farm and sell the cattle. Three years later, he, Ida and their three youngest children left Wisconsin for Williamsburg, Virginia. Georgia and her other siblings stayed behind to finish out the school year, joining their family on the East Coast in 1903. Instead of being dragged down by Francis’s misfortune, Ida channeled her mother’s independence and made the most of life. She was highly involved in the community and in 1901 joined the Twentieth Century Club, a nationwide organization for women dedicated to pursuing goals like achieving women’s suffrage, ending child labor, and passing the Pure Food and Drug Act. Ida’s willpower also defined Georgia, who thrived in her art lessons with Sarah Mann, a local watercolorist and a friend of Ida’s. Along with two of her sisters, Georgia made the seven-mile round trip to downtown Sun Prairie once a week to learn to draw and paint. She practiced diligently back home, and at age 12, she was convinced she’d found her calling, telling a friend, “I want to be an artist.” By 14, Georgia had painted her first known watercolors, “Hanging Up the Clothes” and “Untitled (Lighthouse).” At the time, she was a freshman at the girls-only boarding school Sacred Heart Academy in Madison. There, her artwork was encouraged by another female mentor, Sister Mary Angelique Sabourin, who oversaw the art department and steered Georgia in the direction that would eventually define her as an artist. When Georgia once turned in a graphite drawing of a hand, Sister Mary criticized it for being too small. That forever stuck in Georgia’s mind, and from that point forward, she always drew big. Despite her early accomplishments and obvious talent, in an interview with ARTnews in 1977, Georgia admitted she considered her sister Anita to be the one with the real gift. “My sister next to me [Ida] always thought she was the talented one,” she said. “My other sister [Anita], though, was the one I thought had the real talent. ... I always tried to get her to let go. But she was always rather timid about her painting.” That statement could be interpreted as self-deprecating or far-fetched, but really, almost all the O’Keeffe children were artistic in their own way. The eldest, Francis Jr., became an architect. Alexius was an engineer. And three of the five girls — Georgia, Catherine and Ida Ten Eyck — were such skilled painters that they all eventually booked shows across the country. The family’s unique talent is on full display at the Sun Prairie Historical Library and Museum.
L
ong gone are the days of Sun Prairie ignoring its ties to Georgia O’Keeffe. The site of the original farmstead is now fondly referred to as O’Keeffe Corners. In 2005, the stretch of State Highway 19 connecting Sun Prairie to nearby Marshall was officially designated the Georgia O’Keeffe Memorial Highway. Plans to install a bike path stretching from downtown Sun Prairie to O’Keeffe Corners are in the works. And last year, the museum acquired its first original O’Keeffe: a watercolor purchased at a garage sale in Milwaukee that was determined to be authentic. While she may be best known for her years as an up-and-coming artist in New York City and, later, an isolated desert dweller producing genre-shifting paintings of nature, through it all, Georgia remained the disciplined, self-effacing woman she was raised to be. Considering her modest yet emboldened upbringing, the balance of the small and large ways in which her hometown honors her legacy — the humble sign, the designated highway, the overflowing museum — is fitting. Each element is an attempt to demonstrate just how significant Georgia O’Keeffe was during her lifetime and, through her work, remains today.
Winter 2019
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Artful Living presents
of the
EXPLORING MINNEAPOLIS IN THE LUXURIOUS 2019 YUKON XL DENALI ULTIMATE BLACK EDITION. BY M I TC H E L L L A M B E R T P H OTO G R A P H Y BY A L E X B E L LU S
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Artful Living
Winter 2019
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Culture
NICE
RIDE
•
AL PROMOTION
Nearly every automaker has taken a stab at crafting the most luxurious SUV on the road. Upping the ante, GMC recently rolled out a top-of-the-line trim level to the Yukon and Yukon XL models: the Denali Ultimate Black Edition. Packed with premium materials, state-of-the-art technology and advanced safety features, it does not disappoint. Plus, it’s as comfortable out and about in the North Loop as it is on an adventure to the shores of Lake Minnetonka. Finished in a luxe Onyx Black paint, the Ultimate Black Edition has a striking appearance. The key exterior styling differentiators are the 22-inch, seven-spoke, black-painted wheels with chrome inserts, which give the SUV an undeniable appeal. Other highlights include power-retractable assist steps, an advanced security system, and adaptive cruise control with forward automatic braking. Under the hood, the strong 6.2-liter V8 engine and 10-speed automatic transmission make for a smooth and efficient unit. When it comes to towing, the Yukon XL can handle up to 8,100 pounds. The rear cargo area is particularly generous, and the power-folding third-row seats allow for even more space —
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perfect for weekday errands or weekend excursions up to the cabin. Inside, the luxury and attention to detail are evident. Mastique Ash wood trim and Mulan leather appointments create an inviting atmosphere. Overhead are a massive retractable sunroof and large drop-down Blu-ray/DVD screens for second- and third-row passengers to enjoy. The infotainment center, meanwhile, is intuitive and comes equipped with coveted technology like Apple Carplay1 and Android Auto2 compatibility. While the abundant luxury is visually apparent, the SUV’s most important elements remain unseen: the impressive built-in safety features. GMC is one of few automakers to offer a rear-seat reminder.3 This clever system recognizes when the rear doors have been opened prior to starting the SUV. Once the final destination is reached, audible and visible alerts remind the driver to check the rear seats before exiting the vehicle. Other state-of-the-art features can be found throughout, showcasing that safety is ultimately at the core of the Yukon XL Denali Ultimate Black Edition. For more information, visit twincitiesbuickgmc.com.
The 2019 Yukon XL Denali Ultimate Black Edition • Starting at $72,3004 • 6.2-liter V8 engine with 10-speed automatic transmission • 420 horsepower • EPA-estimated combined fuel economy of 17 mpg (two-wheel drive) • Towing capacity up to 8,100 pounds (two-wheel drive)5 • 22-inch seven-spoke black-painted wheels with chrome inserts • HID projector headlamps • Available 4G LTE Wi-Fi® Hotspot capability6 • 10-speaker Bose surround-sound system • Perforated heated and ventilated leather-appointed front seats
1. Vehicle user interface is a product of Apple, and its terms and privacy statements apply. Requires compatible iPhone. Data plan rates apply. Apple CarPlay is a trademark of Apple Inc. Siri, iPhone and iTunes are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the United States and other countries. 2. Vehicle user interface is a product of Google, and its terms and privacy statements apply. Requires the Android Auto app on Google Play and an Android-compatible smartphone running Android™ 5.0 Lollipop or higher. Data plan rates apply. Android Auto is a trademark of Google LLC. 3. Does not detect people or items. Always check the rear seat before exiting. 4. MSRP. Tax, title, license, dealer fees and optional equipment extra. 5. Before you buy a vehicle or use it for trailering, carefully review the trailering section of the owner’s manual. The weight of passengers, cargo, and options/accessories may reduce the amount you can tow. 6. Service varies with conditions and location. Requires active service plan and paid AT&T data plan. See onstar.com for details and limitations.
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Tickled Pink
IN THE NAME OF SELF-CARE, ONE WRITER PUTS HALOTHERAPY TO THE TEST. BY ALLISON DUNCAN
Full-service salon and spa SALT made its debut in the Twin Cities
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Although there were two zero-gravity lounge chairs in the room, I was blissfully alone during my treatment. The calming sound of a thunderstorm played in the background but at times was overpowered by the sound of the halogenerator, which grinds the salt into microscopic particles then releases them into the air. I tasted the slightest hint of salt and felt it on my skin, in the way one does after a day at the ocean. Even though I lounged almost fully horizontally, relaxing proved more difficult than I’d originally anticipated. With no distractions, I sat alone with my thoughts, which raced. I self-soothed by thinking about how amazing my skin would look and how energized I would feel afterward. When the door opened to signal the end of my session, I was pleasantly surprised to find I had drifted off midway through. And just as the therapist had predicted, I slept incredibly well that night and woke up the next day with both glowing skin and a clear mind. Weekly halotherapy treatments are recommended to keep the body healthy. I’ll most certainly be back, but next time, I’ll also be taking advantage of SALT’s in-room massages and foot baths — all in the name of self-care.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SALT SALON & SPA
last year with a first-of-its-kind healing Himalayan salt room. The timing coincides perfectly with the undeniable rise of the self-care phenomenon, something I’m sure we Minnesotans will be practicing this winter. Halotherapy involves breathing salty air and is somewhat akin to a day spent at the beach. Devotees tout such benefits as improved mood, increased energy, boosted immunity, a purified respiratory system and more. I tested this theory with a 45-minute experience in SALT’s Himalayan salt room. Upon arrival, I was guided to change into a plush robe and sandals. The therapist recommended I walk barefoot once in the salt room, as the mineral underfoot mimics a massage. I did find myself digging my toes into the thick layer of pebbles as if I were settling into a beach chair. The custom-made room glows with a soothing pink hue that reflects off the main wall made up of Himalayan salt blocks. The humidity-free space is set to a cool 68 degrees, ideal for meditation and napping. The neutral tones complemented by trendy accents (think wicker baskets filled with soft textiles) look straight out of a Nancy Meyers film in the best way possible.
vision. design. timeless. kurtbaumarchitects.com 952.426.1932
Abitare F15.pdf 1 9/2/2015 11:21:41 AM
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Continental Drift A PASSPORT HOLDER PROTECTS YOUR MOST VALUABLE ASSET. B Y C H R I S P L A N TA N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY 2 N D T R U T H
There are vacations, there are getaways and then there is
globetrotting. One accessory that experienced travelers love? The passport cover. This may seem like a trivial extravagance, but it isn’t, considering that your passport is the absolute last thing you want to lose while on a trip. Border officers, both in the United States and abroad, can actually reject a passport with rips, stains, dog-eared pages, and similar signs of wear and
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tear. Far from being pointless, a cover is essential for anyone wanting to travel with peace of mind. Our favorite? A classically chic Italian leather cover with interior sleeves for your boarding pass and most used cards. Some styles even feature RFID blockers to prevent your personal information from falling into the wrong hands. Yes, passport holders are handsome, but it’s the protection they provide that makes them so attractive.
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Style
Q+A
She’s All That IOWA NATIVE CASSANDRA DITTMER OUTFITS HOLLYWOOD ELITE. BY MERRITT RETHLAKE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY HUNTER BERRY
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After a scroll through @cassandra on Instagram, it becomes clear that the first-name-only
profile speaks for itself. Snapshots of clients like Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, Ryan Reynolds and country crooners Lady Antebellum fill the 27-year-old’s feed, and this is just the beginning for the Iowa native. Cassandra Dittmer put in four years as celebrity stylist Ilaria Urbinati’s first assistant and is now styling solo, with an emphasis on brand awareness in a highly transparent fashion industry.
Artful Living: What do you enjoy most about your work as a stylist?
Cassandra Dittmer: Award shows! Mostly I do prep work leading up to events, so the day of is just fun. It’s rewarding to be part of something bigger and to make people feel confident and beautiful. When I was with Ilaria, I spent a lot of time traveling with Lady Antebellum and realized I loved travel almost as much as styling. Now I do event-based work, which lets me do both.
AL: How has your personal style evolved since you graduated from Iowa State University?
CD: My style has always been eccentric but now is less futsy because it’s not about me — it’s about the client. I try to strike a balance of showing solid brand awareness with what I wear, but really I’m there to help someone else find their style. It’s an intimate business in that way.
AL: How has social media changed the fashion landscape?
CD: It’s crazy to think that Instagram didn’t exist when I was first starting out. I remember looking for an internship in Los Angeles the summer between my junior and senior years of college. My dad came with me, and we spent a weekend driving around and literally knocking on doors. Today, nearly all of my work comes through Instagram. The transparency that social media brings is something I think about a lot. People wear what I say, so I feel a responsibility to support brands that don’t just do well, but also do good. Sustainable materials, ethical sourcing and American-made products have become increasingly important to me.
AL: How do you stay healthy with such a hectic schedule?
CD: I focus on what I can control, like working out and using good skincare products. Even when I land in a city at a weird time (like 3 a.m. in Beijing), I go to the gym. It always helps me acclimate. Some of my skincare favorites include First Aid Beauty 5 in 1 Eye Cream, Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask and Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil.
AL: What’s your go-to accessory?
CD: A jean jacket. I’m always looking for a quick piece that elevates a look, and nothing does that better than a cool, embellished jacket. It’s that one piece that can take me to a different place.
AL: What winter trends have you most excited?
CD: Slouchy bags, tailored pants, fun and embellished loafers, and mixing plaids and florals. Fashion changes quickly, though, so I’m sure I’ll be excited about something totally different in a few weeks.
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Skis and Skates, oil on canvas, 60” x 48”.
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A MASTER CLASS IN BESPOKE SUIT MAKING AWAITS AT TOP SHELF.
Golden Touch B Y K AT I E D O H M A N
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The way a fabric feels to the touch
is called the hand, and when John Meegan’s clients lay their hands on the finest fabrics ever crafted, their eyes light up. Top Shelf, housed in a 1901 Arts and Crafts home in Minneapolis, is one of the longest running custom clothiers across the state. With some 30,000 options available to construct peerless bespoke suits, the shop is a veritable fabric museum, and Meegan its curator and historian. And he knows his history. He waxes poetic about the magnesium in the water near Biella, Italy, and how it turns raw yarns into the softest in the world. Or how the 1970s revolution transformed wool from clunky, hot and high-maintenance to soft, silky and easy. Those changes, which breathed new life into some of the oldest mills in Italy, also reinvigorated suit making. Meegan likens suit making to architecture, except that he’s building for people. His clients are involved with every step of the design, selecting fabrics, colors, prints and the like. He doesn’t shy away from special requests, such as crafting an inner lining using custom images of a client’s beloved canine. He’s a sketch artist, too, drawing up what each potential creation could look like: single- or double-breasted, a pocket here or there. Meegan and his team make really great suits, but throughout the course of construction, they also tend to make great friends. Clients often have tears in their eyes when it comes time to try on the final product. “Most men hate to shop for clothes, because it’s often an onerous experience, but we educate, we recommend, we put things in front of you,” he says. “There’s a trust. Clients can call me from 30 states away and tell me how the last suit fits, and I can build them new clothes.” “People often ask me when I’ll retire,” he continues. “My stock answer is three years after I die. In all my years, I’ve never gotten to the point where I think any day will be the same as the last. Every client who walks in the door brings with them an interesting new challenge.” And that suit? It’s built to last. Meegan is so confident that he puts the date of construction inside each one. That way, a decade down the road, clients can still appreciate the quality, the style and the softness of the hand, handmade especially for them.
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M I N N E A P O L I S
N A S H V I L L E
952.249.8000 / Poshmn.com 810 Lake St E Wayzata, MN 55391
952.249.8002 810 Lake St E #100 Wayzata, MN 55391 Year Round Sample Sale
612.367.8120 / mElizabethBridal.com 219 N 2nd St Minneapolis, MN 55401 Image courtesy of Robert Evans
Compass Style XGXUXI X DX E
The Guide WHAT TO BUY NOW.
P R O D U C E D B Y K A T H L E E N G I L D E A , H AY L E Y S A U N D E R S A N D E M M A C U T L E R V E L E Z P H OTO G R A P H Y BY 2 N D T R U T H
Olivia von Halle Issa Ivory Silk Slip Dress, oliviavonhalle.com, $375 • Glamourpuss NYC Cozy Corduroy Jacket, Pumpz & Co., pumpzco.com, $1,495 • Mother the Square Sweatshirt in touch of the tiger, Mille, shopmille.com, $138 • A.L.C. Brinkley Sweater, alcltd.com, $495 • Frame Curly Shearling Jacket in monroe, Shopbop, shopbop.com, $425 • Loeffler Randall Agnes Fan Tote in nutmeg, loefflerrandall.com, $450 • Tod’s City Gommino Suede Driving Shoe, tods.com, $495 • Alexandre Birman Kittie Leather Ankle Boot, Pumpz & Co., $695 Winter 2019
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GUIDE
Soaps from (among others) Gramercy Park Hotel, gramercyparkhotel.com • The London Edition, editionhotels.com • Belmond El Encanto, belmond.com Parker Palm Springs, parkerpalmsprings.com • The Setai, Miami Beach, thesetaihotel.com • The Dewberry Charleston, thedewberrycharleston.com
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Kjaer Weis Cream Eye Shadow in sublime, kjaerweis.com, $48 • RMS Beauty Cream Eye Polish in solar, SALT Salon & Spa, experiencesalt.com, $28 • Kjaer Weis Cream Eye Shadow in enticing, $48 • Kjaer Weis Cream Eye Shadow in gorgeous, $48 • RMS Beauty Living Luminizer, SALT Salon & Spa, $38 • RMS Beauty Un Cover-Up, SALT Salon & Spa, $36 • RMS Beauty Lip2Cheek, SALT Salon & Spa, $36 • Kjaer Weis Cream Eye Shadow in alluring, $48
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GUIDE
Sunday Riley Juno Antioxidant + Superfood Face Oil, Sephora, sephora.com, $72 • Susanne Kaufmann Essential Bath Oil for the Senses, Net-a-Porter, net-a-porter.com, $76 • Susanne Kaufmann Moisturizing Mask, Net-a-Porter, $65 • Coqui Coqui Flor de Mayo perfume, coquicoquius.com, $125 • Coqui Coqui Pamplylan perfume, stylist’s own • Susanne Kaufmann Tonic Soothing, Haus Salon, haussalon.com, $82 • Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment, Sephora, $158
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LIFE & STYLE MARTHA O’HARA INTERIORS
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INSPIRED TRAVEL WEAR TAKES TO THE DESERT. P H OTO G R A P H Y BY V I V I E N N E B A L L A / T R U N K A R C H I V E
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TO DD P O WNE LL
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Beyon d B ourbon S treet AN ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE BIG EASY. BY FRANK ROFFERS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL BROUSSARD
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My new favorite domestic destination has to be New Orleans. This crazy place
has me spellbound. It presents a gritty vibe and radiates a feeling unlike any other spot across North America. As any local will tell you, there’s way more to this city than just Mardi Gras. Here, we present an essential guide to the Big Easy.
LOD GING Hotel Monteleone Situated in the heart of the French Quarter, Monteleone is considered one of the city’s most celebrated inns. Modern updates include a spa as well as a rooftop bar and pool. The hotel is allegedly haunted, with reports of ghost sightings and strange occurrences. T I P : Check out the revolving Carousel Bar & Lounge off the lobby. hotelmonteleone.com
Pontchartrain Hotel This architectural jewel boasts luxurious accommodations and amenities from its prime locale in the Garden District adjacent to a charming streetcar route. T IP : Grab a drink at rooftop bar Hot Tin, which nods to one-time resident Tennessee Williams. thepontchartrainhotel.com
The Roosevelt New Orleans This place was made for history buffs and those who want to step into the most sophisticated scene in the city. The elegant Sazerac Bar just off the ornate, oversize lobby is where the namesake drink was invented. Now part of the Waldorf Astoria family, the Roosevelt recently underwent a complete restoration. therooseveltneworleans.com
MU SIC Candlelight Lounge Located in a modest, industrial-looking building, this is the place to go for that elusive authentic New Orleans music experience. The drinks cost a fraction of what most clubs charge, and the jazz is top-notch. T I P : Check out the world-famous Treme Brass Band every Wednesday. 504-906-5877
Preservation Hall Preservation Hall Jazz Band has embodied the joyful spirit of traditional New Orleans jazz for more than 50 years. There is no beverage service here, but you can BYOB from the bar next door. T I P : Skip the lines by buying Big Shot tickets online. preservationhall.com
The Spotted Cat Music Club
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE ROOSEVELT AND CHRIS GRANGER
The Cat, as it’s known by locals, is NOLA’s quintessential jazz club. The Faubourg Marigny icon has become an international destination for jazz. Reservations are not taken, and cash is the only form of payment accepted. spottedcatmusicclub.com
C ULT URE Contemporary Arts Center New Orleans The focal point of the Warehouse District, the center is home to bold experiments across all media. The historic structure blends the city’s timeless architecture with contemporary materials and works from both local and international artists. cacno.org
National WWII Museum Offering a moving tribute, this museum tells the story of the American experience in the war that changed the world. T I P : Don’t miss Beyond All Boundaries, a remarkable cinematic experience produced and narrated by Tom Hanks. nationalww2museum.org
New Orleans Museum of Art The city’s oldest fine arts institution has an impressive permanent collection comprising some 40,000 works (think Magritte, Picasso and Sargent). On top of that, there’s also a five-acre sculpture garden featuring more than 60 pieces by international artists. noma.org
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D IN IN G Commander’s Palace A NOLA institution since 1893, Commander’s is known for its haute Creole cuisine, Old World service and convivial atmosphere. The walls are even painted Commander’s Blue. It’s a place where every table seems to be celebrating something. TIP: Go for the live jazz weekend brunch and request a table outside. commanderspalace.com
Galatoire’s A Friday lunch at Galatoire’s is an absolute must while in New Orleans. It’s a weekly ritual with a splendid display of ceremony. Note that reservations are not accepted for the downstairs dining room. TIP : There’s no menu, so order what the waiter tells you. galatoires.com
Napoleon House It’s easy to slip back in time at this French Quarter landmark. This eatery is known for its reasonably priced Creole fare and its signature muffuletta: a dinner plate–sized Italian sandwich piled high with ham, mortadella, salami, provolone, Swiss cheese and olive salad. napoleonhouse.com
Parkway Bakery & Tavern Since 1911, Parkway has served hands down the best po’boy in town. The local favorite is the “dressed” fried shrimp po’boy. TIP : Beat the long lines by grabbing a seat in the bar. parkwaypoorboys.com
Pascal’s Manale This unpretentious Uptown cathedral for oyster lovers is famous for its freshly shucked bivalves and gleaming raw bar in a mahogany-rich old-school setting. T IP: If oysters aren’t your thing, try the buttery barbecue shrimp. pascalsmanale.com
DRINKING Arnaud’s French 75 Bar The phrase “best in NOLA” is uttered far too often, but it fully applies here. Named for the Champagne cocktail, Arnaud’s French 75 Bar recently won the James Beard Award for best bar. T I P : Have a bartender score you a table when no reservations are available. arnaudsrestaurant.com
Half a block off Bourbon Street, this friendly Irish pub is one of the city’s best-kept secrets. It’s more of a locals bar (read: no tourist prices). The intimate room is covered in framed vintage photographs, car parts autographed by drag racers, and other memorabilia from NOLA’s glory days. erinrosebar.com
Kajun’s Pub Located in Faubourg Marigny, Kajun’s is open 24/7, 365 days a year. It’s a diverse haven for locals, service-industry workers and adventurous tourists. Karaoke starts every night at 5. kajunpub.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL BROUSSARD
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Raising the Spirit A PILGRIMAGE TO SCOTLAND’S GLENMORANGIE HOUSE SHOULD BE ON EVERY WHISKY ENTHUSIAST’S BUCKET LIST.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY GLENMORANGIE
B Y K AT E N E L S O N
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The most inspired travel itineraries stem from something beyond simply a desire to
behold wonders in foreign lands. They feed a passion or answer a higher calling. For whisky aficionados, a pilgrimage to the fabled Glenmorangie distillery in the Scottish Highlands hits the mark on both counts. The journey begins with a touchdown in Scotland’s capital city of Edinburgh. A delightful blend of the past and present, the metropolis deserves a day or two spent exploring attractions like Old Town and Edinburgh Castle. And of course one can’t help but indulge in some high-quality cashmere and wool from the bustling shops along famed Princes Street. A picturesque jaunt through the Scottish countryside culminates at the beautifully restored Glenmorangie House, situated among barley fields on the outskirts of the burgh of Tain and overlooking the unadulterated shores of the Moray Firth. The expansive grounds feature immaculate gardens, the ruins of a 13th century castle, and an inviting tree-lined path leading to the beach. A stay in one of the six bedrooms (as well as the three nearby cottages) includes afternoon tea, multi-course meals and the company of fellow whisky enthusiasts. Dressed in rich tweeds and tartans, the property’s luxuriously intimate accommodations have attracted the likes of Prince Charles and singer Sting, who enjoyed a holiday here when Madonna and Guy Ritchie wed at nearby Skibo Castle in 2000. Of course, the highlight of a stay here is no doubt a visit to the Glenmorangie distillery, where the legendary Men of Tain craft the celebrated single-malt Scotch whiskies that have captivated the world of spirits since 1843. A variety of tours guide visitors through the whisky-making process and highlights of the property, such as the Highland Cathedral: the storied still house that’s home to Scotland’s tallest stills. Lucky guests might even spot Director of Whisky Creation, Distilling & Whisky Stocks Bill Lumsden (affectionately known as Dr. Bill) and heir apparent Brendan McCarron on the premises. Savvy travelers can take advantage of Glenmorangie House’s dedicated Whisky Tasting Weekends, which are held periodically throughout the year and include a distillery tour, a steady flow of drams, and expert guidance on tastings. A sojourn at the serene property, with its trademark Highland hospitality and unmatched access to its namesake distillery’s distinguished creations, surely should sit at the top of any whisky aficionado’s bucket list.
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THOUGHTFUL APPROACH, COMMITMENT TO QUALITY, ATTENTION TO DETAIL, AND IMPECCABLE STYLE.
LANDSCAPE VISIONS REALIZED
380 Second Street, Excelsior, MN 952.473.4440 thesittingroomstudio.com
Cheers to celebrating 10 Years in Edina and our guestroom refresh! Thank you for the continued support over the years.
Global Winner, Sub-Zero & Wolf Kitchen Design Contest 2018 ASID Designer of Distinction dhdstudio.com | info@dhdstudio.com | 612.337.5060
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Show the world your smile.
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SALT of the EARTH TWIN CITIES ARCHITECT KELLY DAVIS DESIGNS A STUNNING SRI LANKA GETAWAY. BY LINDA MACK
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Retired Stillwater architect Kelly Davis had been to the South Asian
island nation of Sri Lanka when he was young, but at that time, it was engulfed in civil war. When he and his partner, Bill Stump, returned in 2010, the beachfront country was on the cusp of a tourism boom. They met an engaging young man who wanted to ride that wave. As the duo got to know Sameera Gamage, they learned that he and his family had lost everything but their lives in the 2004 tsunami. (Their dog, Lucky, led them to safety.) They had no kitchen or bathroom in the minimal shelter the government provided. Gamage’s mother would collect water from a stream and firewood for cooking. “It was like they had gone back a hundred years,” says Davis, who helped them add on to their house. But Gamage had a dream: to run a small hotel. He started a bed and breakfast near the UNESCO World Heritage Site Sinharaja Forest Reserve and did well — so well, in fact, that an envious competitor poisoned his drinking water. He decided to return closer to home and find some land near the seaside tourist town of Hikkaduwa. And Davis and Stump decided to help. Real estate along the oceanfront thoroughfare was too expensive, but they found an affordable plot just 15 minutes from the beach. Davis designed two cabanas and a restaurant for the property. Gamage oversaw the construction, which kicked off in 2015 and utilized local labor and traditional building materials like wood, concrete and earth-colored plaster. Opening in 2016, Nisala Villas (Senegalese for “quiet”) offers a little piece of paradise. It boasts two luxe villas with steep-pitched roofs, multiple en-suite bedrooms and inviting public spaces. There’s also a covered outdoor area for dining or sipping drinks after a dip in the large plunge pool. Davis explains that he wanted to make simple yet striking structures that felt in place. “Although Sri Lanka is justifiably famous for its spectacular beaches and World Heritage Sites, the true spirit of the country can only be found as you go inland from the busy and chaotic coast road,” he adds. “Nisala, in its simple way, captures this essence.”
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In fact, Nisala has done so well that the restaurant is being converted into a third villa and a new eatery is being built. Taken altogether, the three villas make an ideal place for family, friends or multiple couples to travel together, notes Davis, who visits at least twice a year: “You each have your private space plus a place for gathering.” Davis is proud of his designs but equally proud of Gamage, who persevered and built a business that will support his parents and now his wife and new baby — as well as generations to come. “Sometimes travel spawns friendships that change our lives,” he says. “Ours were changed as much as Sameera’s.”
Bringing lifestyle into living spaces. Spacecrafting Photography
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Bold Strokes SOLAZ STANDS OUT AMONG A SEA OF LOS CABOS RESORTS.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SOLAZ, A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT, LOS CABOS
BY MARGARET COOPER
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The brand-spanking-new Solaz Resort Los Cabos is the
latest architectural wonder to grace the shores of the Sea of Cortez. It is intended to pay homage to its Baja California roots, blending the endemic desert vegetation with flora to create a unique “dry jungle.” Nestled between two natural rock beds, it also boasts one of the area’s only swimmable beaches. But what makes Solaz truly stand out among a sea of Los Cabos resorts is its incredible architecture, with strong vertical lines that cast dramatic shadows across the property. That striking aesthetic is carried out throughout the 128 guest rooms. Blurring the lines between indoors and out, each has its own entrance and patio with unobstructed views of the sea, plus select suites have private terraces. Designed in tiers, structures are capped with Solaz’s
signature landscaping, ensuring views are never marred by the sight of a concrete roof. Stays here include the service of an artisan butler, whose only goal is to guarantee an unforgettable experience. Unique design is at every turn across the resort. Walkways leading to the beach are lined with cacti, aloe and other flora, and original Mexican art is thoughtfully placed within the landscaping. Woven wood grids hang above chaise lounges at the full-service spa, which boasts Los Cabos’s only thalassotherapy treatment. And large, detailed pergolas cast those trademark dramatic shadows at each of the four eateries, which offer everything from smoothie bowls and huevos ahogados at breakfast to delectable lobster tail and life-changing bone marrow tacos come dinner. Curated off-property experiences include private stargazing up in the mountains, a luxurious yacht excursion to see the iconic Arch and snorkel in the sea’s crystal-clear waters, and more. All told, Solaz’s one-of-a-kind architecture and premier offerings make for a getaway both novice and experienced travelers can appreciate. It’s the ideal destination for someone who thinks they’ve seen the best of Cabo — so far.
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48 Hours in Copenhagen HOW TO SPEND A WEEKEND IN DENMARK’S RISING STAR. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
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capital has long been a desirable destination, but in the past few years, it has truly come into its own. In fact, the travel gurus at Lonely Planet selected it as the top place to visit in 2019, and for good reason. The friendly, accessible, sparkling-clean city known for its iconic design and pioneering cuisine charms visitors who seek an off-the-beaten-path experience. In Copenhagen, no matter which direction you head in, you’re going the right way.
Saturday 9 a.m. Fly into Copenhagen’s immaculate international airport and take a quick 15-minute train ride into the city center. Check into Thekrane, an exclusive boutique hotel experience for two. Situated inside a refurbished industrial coal crane, it is decked out in minimalist decor and boasts panoramic views of the historic harbor. Although walking is sufficient transportation here, Thekrane offers an in-house BMW and bicycles to take you around town at your leisure. 11 a.m. Head to the city’s trendiest neighborhood, Vesterbro, for a sun-speckled alfresco brunch at Mad & Kaffe. This local favorite is known for its reasonably priced spreads with a pick-your-pairing plethora of options. The grapefruit with tarragon sugar; fried chorizo sausage with mustard dip; and avocado with beetroot hummus, almonds, chili oil and herbs will fuel a day of exploration. 1 p.m. Even if you aren’t much of a museum goer, visit Thorvaldsens Museum. Built in 1848 to house the works of famed sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, it offers an uncomplicated introduction to the art, aesthetic and architecture of Denmark. Take advantage of the free audio guide, which is filled with both useful information and quick-witted asides. 6 p.m. Stroll through Nyhavn, the formerly grimy sailor’s quarter that’s now populated with rainbow-colored townhouses, historical wooden ships and bustling restaurants. If you’re a fan of author Hans Christian Andersen, check out houses 18, 20 and 67, where he once resided. If you couldn’t care less about fairy tales, pop into the tiny off-license for a serving of classic Danish beer Grøn Tuborg. 7 p.m. If you aren’t willing to sell your firstborn child to snag a table at the über-exclusive Noma, head instead to Michelin-starred Kong Hans Kælder. Considered the crown jewel of Danish gastronomy, the restaurant is situated in a cozy underground vault that once served as a wine cellar for 15th century Danish king Hans. In stark contrast to Noma’s famed deconstructed cuisine, chef Mark Lundgaard and sommelier Peter Pepke have created an inspired classical experience employing premium Danish and French ingredients.
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY KONG HANS KÆLDER AND KAVALENKAVA VOLHA / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
Copenhagen is like a teenager who just got her braces off. The Denmark
Sunday 10 a.m. Stroll through Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square) and Strøget, the pedestrian walkway of charming linked squares. Boutiques abound, but Danish design is best seen at Illum Bolighus, a department store that’s been dubbed “a temple of modern design.” This homeware mecca is a purveyor to the Danish royal court. 12 p.m. If you want to see the city from the sea, Strömma Danmark provides an impeccable tour that identifies classic churches, notable homes and new structures plus provides libations along the way. For a more idyllic experience, the company’s hop-on, hop-off pass allows you to sightsee at your own pace. 3 p.m. Make your way to the self-proclaimed free state of Christiania, an alternative society-within-a-society founded in the seventies when squatters took over an abandoned military barracks. Today, the 850-person community is a thriving center for art, food and music. It’s safe to walk around, but be respectful of the community’s customs and avoid taking photos and videos. If you’re lucky, you can catch a free concert at outdoor venue Café Nemoland. 6 p.m. Cap your visit with dinner at Michelin-recommended Restaurant Hummer, known for its pairings of lobster and bubbles. Crab, mussels, oysters, scallops, rose shrimp — this eatery showcases the best of Copenhagen’s seafood. Toast to 48 well-spent hours and start planning your next trip to the Denmark capital.
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CRUISE
On the High Seas EXPLORING THE BALTIC ABOARD THE MOST LUXURIOUS SHIP EVER BUILT.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES
BY AMBER GIBSON
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When the Regent Seven Seas Explorer set sail from Monaco
on its maiden voyage in July 2016, it was touted as the most luxurious cruise ship ever built. And two years later, it still lives up to its reputation. Last summer, my mother and I set sail to explore the Baltic Sea. In just 10 days, we saw Sweden, Estonia, Finland, Russia, Latvia, Lithuania, Germany and Denmark. Our Concierge Suite was the most spacious room I’ve ever experienced aboard a cruise ship, with double sinks and a large walk-in closet. The terrace was so expansive that I nearly sabered the welcome bottle of Jacquart Brut Mosaïque Champagne in my glee. Just in time, an announcement warned us not to cast even the smallest object (say, a Champagne cork) into the ocean. All the details — from the Versace dinnerware in Compass Rose to the dazzling crystal chandeliers and vintage photographs lining the halls — convey a tasteful luxury that no other ship can match. The art collection is simply spectacular, including several Picassos, a handful of Mirós and a Chagall. It was curated by Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings President and CEO Frank Del Rio and includes many contemporary pieces he discovered during his travels. The pièce de résistance is no doubt the two-ton floor-to-ceiling Tibetan prayer wheel at the entrance to Pacific Rim, the pan-Asian eatery exclusive to Seven Seas Explorer. I made a habit of running my fingers along the engraved cast-bronze cylinders before sitting down to a meal of curry, tempura lobster, beef bulgogi or dim sum paired with sake. The Indonesian chef de cuisine happily indulged my request for extra spicy chicken curry with a flurry of diced bird’s eye chilies. And having tried it twice, I can confidently proclaim the miso black cod as better than Nobu’s. If you’re staying in the $10,000-a-night Regent Suite, a driver and guide are included at each port, plus you always have the option of booking a private tour. Otherwise, most of the 40-plus group excursions are complimentary. Regent’s tours run like clockwork, and the guides we met were all friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Our first stop was Tallinn, Estonia. After an overview of the UNESCO World Heritage fortified Old Town, we had the rest of the day at leisure. Complimentary shuttles throughout the day at all ports made solo exploration easy for more independent travelers like me. St. Petersburg, where we docked for three nights, was undoubtedly a highlight. As cruise guests, we didn’t need Russian visas so long as we stuck to group excursions. The Hermitage Museum is, in my opinion, even more breathtaking than the Louvre. Our guide nimbly
navigated a path to the collection highlights, including a whimsically over-the-top mechanical golden peacock clock, a hall of Rembrandt paintings, and Madonna and Child masterpieces by Leonardo da Vinci and Raphael. The grandeur of the space — patterned parquet floors, intricately carved columns, gilded gold-leaf ceilings, Russian mosaic malachite and lapis lazuli vases — nearly overshadowed the works of art. In Helsinki, Finland, I tried reindeer and Arctic cloudberries for the first time, and in Klaipeda, Lithuania, I toured an amber workshop while other cruisers visited a Soviet nuclear weapon site. I have an affinity for my namesake and watched the ancient tree resin transform through careful craftsmanship into a glowing gem believed to have powerful healing properties. I found Riga, Latvia, incredibly charming, with the largest concentration of art nouveau buildings in the world. There are plenty of impeccably preserved Mikhail Eisenstein structures but also clusters of simple 19th century wooden houses, some of which now house popular restaurants and pubs. Through many years of occupation and oppression, Latvians have struggled to keep their nationality, and I was moved by their patriotism. Back aboard the Explorer, it was hard not to overindulge. The Champagne started flowing at breakfast, and my mom literally ate lobster every day (always perfectly prepared, might I add). With six distinct restaurant experiences plus room service, it was impossible to get bored. Afternoon tea was served daily, too, including a particularly delightful chocoholic-themed service. I tried to work it all off with yoga and boot-camp classes in the fitness center. I found the beautifully appointed Canyon Ranch spa, complete with an aromatic steam room, sauna and hot tub, the ideal place to relax after a strenuous day on shore. Although a long daytime excursion might have you ready to call it an early night, the entertainment was always worth staying up for. An international cast of dynamic singers and dancers performed carefully choreographed numbers, from Broadway favorites to Parisian cabaret. Other activities included karaoke, swing dance, and daily organized trivia, puzzles and sporting games to help forge connections between guests. I can’t imagine a more luxe cruise experience — that is until Regent’s next ship, Seven Seas Splendor, debuts in 2020.
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Compass
EXPERIENCE THE WORLD’S MOST DESIRABLE DESTINATIONS THE ARTFUL LIVING WAY.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY FAIRMONT AUSTIN, BELMOND EL ENCANTO AND THE LORA
T O UR
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STILLWATER Considered the birthplace of Minnesota (circa 1848), Stillwater is nestled along the scenic St. Croix River that separates the state from neighboring Wisconsin. This eastern Twin Cities suburb is experiencing a resurgence, with an influx of vibrant new businesses — from boutique hotels to inventive eateries — lining the streets of this once-sleepy river town. In Stillwater, quaint can be good when you’ve got everything you need. –M I C K I S I E V W R I G H T
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE LORA
Before welcoming its first guests last year, the Lora had already earned honors in Architectural Digest as one of the world’s 15 best designed hotels. The restoration melded four buildings (including a historic brewery’s caves) to create the headlining boutique hotel, Feller restaurant, the Long Goodbye craft cocktail bar and MADE coffee shop. Drawn to Stillwater’s character, owner Corey Burstad partnered with Provenance Hotels, ESG Architecture & Design, and Zeman Construction on the project. “The city of Stillwater is currently undergoing a remarkable transformation, and it is beyond exciting,” he exclaims. Lora excels in its service and its enchanting Scandinavian-modern comforts. Guests appreciate the luxe amenities and the nods to Minnesota makers (think Faribault Woolen Mill blankets, Surly craft beer and Pearson’s Salted Nut Rolls). With a penchant for folklore, Stillwater’s Lora is hard to resist. lorahotel.com
Shop
45 DEGREES
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY 45 DEGREES AND LOLO AMERICAN KITCHEN
Grab your beanie and mittens, set the GPS to Stillwater, and enlist the experts at 45 Degrees to outfit your adventure. The recreational gear and apparel shop offers top labels like Keen, Löle and Patagonia plus up-and-coming brands like Stillwater’s own Minnesota Made. Owner Jeff Anderson prides himself on the store’s customer service; the staff here knows the brands, the people behind the brands and how clients can make the most of their outdoor pursuits. The shop also rents cross-country skis and snowshoes. Anderson explains that his Main Street storefront is uniquely positioned as a jumping-off point to three state parks as well as the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway. One of few national parks with free admission, the river is a scenic beauty contributing to the historic town’s vibrancy. Be it winter, spring, summer or autumn, 45 Degrees curates premium outdoor brands to maximize Minnesota adventures. 45-degrees.com
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LOLO AMERICAN KITCHEN Set aside your expectations at LoLo American Kitchen, an inventive eatery that’s riding the gourmet street-food movement. The thriving 12-table hot spot is locally owned and locally operated (hence “LoLo”) and dominates social media as downtown Stillwater’s go-to eatery. “We’re the smallest restaurant in town, and we try to be the best,” says co-owner Joe Ehlenz. “We push for new and exciting ingredients.” Cocktails draw from experiments, such as a recent bitter concoction derived from fresh hops. Coffee, cigarettes and donuts? There’s a drink for that, too. Most notable is the eatery’s take on street tacos. Korean hangar steak and mahi-mahi are fan favorites, but Ehlenz urges regulars to try the Cubano taco. Additional LoLo outposts are located at the Minneapolis–St. Paul airport and in Hudson, Wisconsin. loloamericankitchen.com
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MOXY CHELSEA Italian romance meets quick wit at the Lightstone Group’s latest project. Opening in early 2019, this cheeky hotel sits in the heart of the Flower District, and it sure fits the part. Upon entering this overgrown flower shop and glass-enclosed conservatory, guests are greeted with a three-story-high wall of live botanicals designed by Yabu Pushelberg. Moxy Chelsea is modern and sleek with a touch of sass. Quirky and playful phrases flash on the ceiling in the lobby, where suspended butcher blocks serve as kiosks. Rooms are efficiently sized in an effort to get guests out of their quarters and exploring the city or enjoying in-house amenities like a Neapolitan-style pizza oven, a bocce drinking game and the glass-enclosed rooftop lounge. moxy-hotels.marriott.com
NEW YORK Being one of the world’s major commercial, financial and cultural hubs, the Big Apple has a little something for everyone. Game-changing concepts seem to pop up all the time here, whether it be a tongue-in-cheek hotel or a barbershop-cum-speakeasy. The beauty of New York is that no matter when you go, you’ll always find something new to experience — in this case, a modern take on the city that never sleeps. –G E N E V I E V E C O S S E T T E
RENDERING BY THREE MARKS
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BLIND BARBER Business in the front, party in the back. With three locations across the city, including inside the Chelsea Barneys, at Moxy Times Square, and standing alone in the East Village, Blind Barber was built on the belief that a haircut should be accompanied by a well-made cocktail. The East Village outpost is open as a barbershop during the day and as a bar come night. Men flock to the shop for haircuts, beard trims, shaves and more (including hangover treatments). After 6 p.m., the Back Room opens up, with artfully crafted drinks like a French 43 and a winter daiquiri served up until 4 a.m. Schedule your cut far in advance as Blind Barber fills up (drinks) fast. blindbarber.com
Dine
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY WARREN JAGGER AND BLIND BARBER
LEGASEA This elevated yet approachable seafood brasserie and bar housed within Moxy Times Square is a new concept by TAO Group. Subway tiles, floating pendant lights, and leather and copper accents create a fun nautical atmosphere that’s perfect for lunch, dinner or drinks. The menu features top-tier sustainable seafood, but don’t worry — the non-seafood offerings are just as delicious. Executive Chef Jason Hall will not let you leave hungry, with favorites like spicy crab beignets, a lobster thermidor roll and haystack fries donning the menu. legaseany.com
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AUSTIN The capital city of Texas has a proud moniker: Keep Austin weird. The culture here celebrates innovation in craft, cuisine, music and technology. After all, it’s grown brands like Dell, Yeti, Tito’s vodka and Collings guitars. The music scene boasts more venues per capita than any other U.S. destination. With a constant churn of creativity, Austin is one of the most trendsetting cities in the West. –M . S .
ATX COCINA Few margaritas have left me feeling passionate. The same can be said of tortillas. But at ATX Cocina, natural ingredients and organic spirits come together in an unprecedented dining experience. Occupying two pages of the menu, tequila and its smoky cousin mescal are brazen contenders that prove worthy alone and in craft cocktails. Complementing the traditional agave spirit is the fare’s emphasis on masa, the basis of Mexican cuisine for thousands of years. This focus on corn makes every dish delicious (and, coincidentally, gluten-free). “Every ingredient, from the base to the garnish, is a vital component to bringing out the flavor profile for each dish,” explains Executive Chef Kevin Taylor. Bonus: The eatery recently rolled out Friday lunch service, providing even more reason to roll into the weekend a few hours early. With a conscious nod to traditional ingredients, ATX Cocina elevates Mexican flavors. atxcocina.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY ATX COCINA
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Shop
LUXE APOTHETIQUE This gem is a go-to for standout gifts plus a little pampering at the in-house salon and spa. The service-driven staff curates a selection of hip apparel and accessories from brands like Citizens of Humanity, Ella Moss, J Brand, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Ornamental Things. Makeup artists, meanwhile, are armed with BareMinerals and Jane Iredale cosmetics to highlight your cheekbones with natural colors. The latest buzzworthy gifts from Luxe Apothetique are the locally made Illuminidol candles featuring celebrity saints. For a small price, Beyoncé, Jeff Goldblum and even Ruth Bader Ginsburg can answer all your friends’ prayers. The eclectic convenience of Luxe Apothetique guarantees laughs, luxury and that long-sought-after look. Two Austin outposts plus e-commerce. shopluxe.com
Stay
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY LUXE APOTHETIQUE AND FAIRMONT AUSTIN
FAIRMONT AUSTIN Every year, Austin swells with thousands of South by Southwest and Austin City Limits Music Festival attendees. Filling a need for awe-inspiring hospitality, Fairmont Austin opened last spring as the largest hotel in town, with 37 stories, 1,048 rooms and nearly 140,000 square feet of event space. Glimmering in glass from top to bottom, it has been dubbed one of the city’s most Instagrammable hotels by Forbes. Panoramic views from rooftop bar Rules & Regs highlight downtown’s Lady Bird Lake. Equally engaging are the beautiful people socializing at the nearby pool and cabanas (each fully equipped with a Yeti cooler, naturally). On the ground level, Revue food hall blends four restaurant experiences, offering handmade pasta, steaming ramen, a raw bar and fluffy crepes. With Fairmont, a world-class hotel has arrived in Austin. fairmont.com
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SANTA BARBARA The jewel of the American Riviera, Santa Barbara is known for its Spanish Colonial architecture, its stunning landscapes and a wine scene that rivals the world’s best. Situated on California’s longest stretch of south-facing Pacific coastline, it is flanked by the dramatic Santa Ynez mountain range at its back. The charming downtown area offers unique shopping, delicious dining — oh, and did I mention wine? There’s no excuse for not exploring this gorgeous city by the sea. –E M M A C U T L E R V E L E Z
BELMOND EL ENCANTO An institution since 1981, this historic hotel is nestled cozily in the Santa Barbara hills, just a quick jaunt from the iconic Old Mission. With 70 rooms, 22 suites and a recent multimillion-dollar renovation, the property is glamorous yet understated. Expansive gardens surround the California Colonial–style bungalows, creating a scenic getaway. The spacious accommodations feature beautiful interiors, elegant custom furnishings, large soaking tubs and private terraces. Strolling the seven-acre grounds is a sensory experience where you’re surrounded by lush palms, succulents and bougainvillea. Morning yoga beside the serene lily pond is enchanting. Turtles swim laps there, and hummingbirds flutter overhead as you deep breath the salty air. And the saline pool is the perfect spot for a dip while taking in views of the Pacific. If you’re not already totally chill, the spa’s Linda Ross Beverly Hills signature facial will take you to the next level of relaxation. belmond.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BELMOND EL ENCANTO AND EMMA CUTLER VELEZ
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Dine
THE DINING ROOM AND TERRACE This eatery boasts a captivating experience, pairing Executive Chef Johan Denizot’s inspired menu with live music seven days a week. Ingredients are local and ever-evolving. The contemporary California cuisine is best enjoyed on the terrace, with its expansive views of the shimmering coastline. This is the perfect spot for a prix-fixe Sunday brunch or a romantic dinner for two. Regardless of where you are staying, the view alone is worth booking a reservation, and the exquisite fare is the icing on the cake. Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel might as well be on tap on the terrace. Yes, it’s a French interloper in Central Coast wine country, but the fruit-forward, dry-finish Rosé pairs well with the last blush of sun on the evening horizon. belmond.com
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FUNK ZONE Despite the name, the Funk Zone warehouse district is not funky but rather chic and eclectic — and not to be missed. The area spans from the ocean to Highway 101 and makes for a lovely walk. No agenda is needed. Just drop into cafes, galleries, boutiques and microbreweries. Interior designers flock to Raoul Textiles’ stunning showroom, where each vignette is more inspiring than the last. The Urban Wine Trail highlights 20 tasting rooms showcasing Santa Barbara County’s world-class vinos. The Valley Project, meanwhile, is a great spot for sipping, chatting about winemaking, and admiring the floor-to-ceiling mural exhibiting the surrounding Central Coast wine-growing region. Antique stores and vintage shops are as plentiful as hip coffee houses here, keeping things funky in the Zone. funkzone.net
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Live Music
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FLYING HIGH THE TRAVEL STYLES OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS.
BY A N N E R O D E R I Q U E - J O N E S , G I N A SA M A R OT TO A N D C I N N A M O N JA N Z E R I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y H E N R Y R I V E R S
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROMEO BALANCOURT
urious about the high-flying habits of the jet set? It often involves a private jet, a butler for becks and calls, a bodyguard for protection, and a nanny to mind the children. It might also require a personal helicopter, like the $1.6-million chopper Angelina Jolie bought for then-fiancé Brad Pitt. And why not? Their chateau in the South of France already had a helipad, so it seemed like a fun surprise. The well-to-do certainly have their own way of traveling. You can be sure the accommodations are outrageously extravagant, to the tune of $20,000 a night for a suite favored by Beyoncé and Jay-Z. And if one’s between homes — or spouses? Why, moving into a hotel suite is perfectly suitable, especially if it’s at Hotel Bel-Air. From an English estate fit for Meghan Markle to a Swiss palace once home to Coco Chanel, here’s where the rich and famous like to stay while on vacay. –Anne Roderique-Jones
THE BRAND O T E T I A R O A , F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A GUEST LIST: Barack and Michelle Obama, Ellen DeGeneres and Portia de Rossi,
Pippa Middleton, Margot Robbie
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his ultra-exclusive resort lies 30 miles north of Tahiti on the private atoll of Tetiaroa. First beloved by Tahitian royalty, it was later discovered by Marlon Brando, who came to the island while filming Mutiny on the Bounty and purchased the property in 1967 to host a slew of celebrity friends. While it’s still owned by Brando’s estate, hotelier Richard Bailey has created a sustainably chic resort that’s a favorite among the affluent. In 2017, for example, Margot Robbie honeymooned while Ellen and Portia vacationed while Obama spent a month writing his book. They were here for the beach-facing villas, the private pools and the utmost privacy, all for just $10,000 a night. (Interestingly enough, they all met in the gym.)
JET-SETTING THROUGH THE YEARS
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1910–1920S
THE RISE OF THE ROAD TRIP
OCEAN-FARING OPULENCE
Wealthy Americans ditched filthy industrial cities for the scenic countryside by car, which cost upward of $1,300 while average salaries often didn’t surpass $500 a year. Weekend road trips allowed the affluent to emulate idealized aspects of the transient gypsy lifestyle, like picnicking on the side of the road.
Crossing the ocean on a luxury liner was the next jet set status symbol. Those who could afford it traversed the Atlantic aboard steamships (think Titanic, but with more success) in upper-class accommodations akin to the finest on-land hotels and restaurants.
Artful Living
C L I VE D E N H O USE T A P L O W, E N G L A N D GUEST LIST: Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth II, Sir Winston Churchill,
Meghan Markle, Gwyneth Paltrow
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ituated near the Royal Borough of Windsor & Maidenhead, this privately owned estate has seen multiple owners throughout its history, including the Prince of Wales, the Duke of Buckingham, and Lord and Lady Astor. Today, it’s a five-star hotel set upon 376 acres of National Trust ground. The standalone three-bedroom Spring Cottage boasts the largest and most secluded accommodations, with rates starting at £2,055 a night. Featuring two open fireplaces, a country kitchen and a private garden overlooking the River Thames, it’s where Queen Victoria took afternoon tea with her good friend the Duchess of Sutherland. Most recently, Cliveden House made headlines when Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Sussex (AKA Meghan Markle) stayed here on the eve of her wedding to Prince Harry.
DENNIS RODMAN IN NORTH KOREA Not everyone can say they have Kim Jong-un on their short list of ride or dies, but former Chicago Bull Dennis Rodman did just that after traveling to Pyongyang to meet with the Supreme Leader in 2013. By all reports, the unlikely duo had a blast at a basketball game then at dinner with various North Korean officials, after which Rodman declared Kim his “friend for life.” He returned to North Korea the following year, this time with a group of retired NBA players. After singing a rousing rendition of “Happy,” the Worm led his team in an exhibition game played as a “present” to his “best friend.” The faithful-to-the-end Rodman even traveled to Singapore last June for a North Korea summit.
Crazy Celebrity Itineraries
Despite being surrounded by handlers galore, even 1 percenters can make questionable travel choices. –Gina Samarotto
BEYONCÉ AND MARIAH CAREY IN ST . BARTS PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY CLIVEDEN HOUSE
Imagine celebrating New Year’s Eve at a private bash at tony Nikki Beach Saint Barth. A favorite of A-list jet setters, the hot spot doesn’t disappoint, especially with headliners like Beyoncé and Mariah Carey. But there’s a slight catch: These fetes were hosted by the family of none other than Muammar el-Qaddafi. The Mad Dog of the Middle East helmed a government connected to terrorist attacks, including the 1988 Lockerbie bombing. Despite the host’s lineage, the parties drew well-known — if not well-informed — guests like Jay-Z, Russell Simmons and Jon Bon Jovi. And as it turns out, performing for the Qaddafi clan is quite profitable: Carey received $1 million to sing in 2009, and Beyoncé secured a cool $2 million the next year.
1920S
1930S
LUXURY ON THE RAILS
TAKING TO THE SKIES
Train travel’s heyday began in the 1920s and lasted well into the 1940s, when fine dining debuted on the rails. The well-to-do noshed on leg of lamb with mint sauce while watching scenic views roll by aboard the so-called Train of the Stars that ran between Chicago and Los Angeles.
Affordable to only the rich and famous, luxury air travel took off in the thirties. The rudimentary technology of the time allowed for 12,000-mile flights at a cost of $20,000 when adjusted for inflation. Planes held only a few dozen passengers, and accommodations were epicurean.
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LA M AM O U N I A MARRAKECH, MOROCCO GUEST LIST: Princess Caroline of Monaco, Alfred Hitchcock, The Rolling Stones,
Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Cruise, Kate Winslet
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ast year, La Mamounia was dubbed the best hotel in the world in Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards. But long before that, in 1943 to be exact, Sir Winston Churchill called it “the most lovely spot in the whole world” when inviting President Franklin D. Roosevelt for a visit. The prime minister spent so much time here that today he has a suite named after him, complete with his sculpture and hat. What draws the well-to-do to this posh property? Perhaps it’s the thousands of rose bushes comprising the garden, or maybe it’s the green-tiled pavilion next to the palatial Italian marble pool. Either way, they’re willing to shell out $10,000 a night for a stay here.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY LA MAMOUNIA
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1950S–1970S
JETTING AROUND THE WORLD
THE GOLDEN AGE OF AIR TRAVEL
The thirties also saw the introduction of the private jet, making personal air travel available for the first time. Wealthy families began buying up jets to the tune of $1 million so as not to have to mingle with the masses.
It wasn’t until the fifties that commercial air travel really came into its own. At the time, Pan Am featured fare from Maxim’s of Paris, stewardesses donned provocative uniforms designed to delight their mostly male passengers, and cigarette smoke filled the air.
Artful Living
ANTHONY BOURDAIN IN LEBANON
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY HOTEL ADLON KEMPINSKI
The stewed lamb might have been to die for, but the bombs exploding during Anthony Bourdain’s 2006 trip to Beirut were far deadlier. While in the city filming for his Travel Channel series No Reservations, the late chef found his Lebanese foray quickly going south. Instead of focusing on the flavors and culture of the Middle East’s party capital, Bourdain and his crew found themselves on the front lines of a conflict. They spent 10 tense days in Beirut before being evacuated from the war-torn city thanks to U.S. intervention, a military landing craft and the USS Nashville. On the upside, the resulting episode was ultimately nominated for an Emmy.
NAOMI CAMPBELL IN SOUTH AFRICA
HOTE L A D LO N K E M PINSKI BERLIN GUEST LIST: Sophia Loren, Steven Spielberg, Tom Hanks, Bono,
Naomi Campbell, Gisele Bündchen
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emember back in 2002 when Michael Jackson dangled his son Blanket (Prince Michael II) from a hotel balcony? It all happened at this inn’s €22,000-a-night Presidential Suite. Perfectly placed in Berlin’s city center, this German getaway has hosted an impressive roster of celebs, many of whom opt to stay in the Royal Suite (€26,000 a night) or the aforementioned Presidential Suite. The most privileged guests have their every need met by Dirk Ricardo Dürner. Donning a morning coat by day and tails come evening, the beloved butler is on round-the-clock duty to prepare afternoon tea, mix a martini or even iron the pages of the daily newspaper. Some of the more unusual requests he’s received? Filling in when a Hollywood star’s translator didn’t show up, mapping out the best walking route in a venue ahead of a president’s speech and bringing an Adlon chair to any restaurant in town at which an especially particular guest opted to dine.
1980S–1990S
AN ERA OF CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION Opulence was the name of the game in the eighties and nineties. Luxury cruises and ornate private yachts, like the 241-foot Corsair II that J.P. Morgan once owned, dominated the scene. Exclusive clubs cemented the connection between yachting and wealth, and expensive cruises allowed for island hopping.
As the story goes, during a 1997 trip to South Africa for an event hosted by Nelson Mandela to support his Children’s Fund, Naomi Campbell was gifted “a few stones” by then-Liberian dictator Charles Taylor. Initially denying the accusation, the supermodel was issued a subpoena and warned she could face jail time if she refused to cooperate with the United Nations. She eventually testified that two men representing Taylor had come to her room late one night to give her “a pouch with a couple of dirty-looking stones.” Ultimately, Taylor was brought to trial in 2012 for his war crimes and found guilty of trading blood diamonds to fund a rebellion during Sierra Leone’s 10-year civil war. Campbell managed to escape charges, though one can assume (blood) diamonds are not that girl’s best friend.
2000S AND BEYOND
(PRIVATE) ISLAND TIME As other forms of travel continue to become more accessible, 1 percenters have taken to purchasing their own islands for private escapes populated only by friends, family and staff. Trend poster boy Sir Richard Branson was ahead of the curve, purchasing his Necker Island for just $180,000 back in 1978. –Cinnamon Janzer
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE PENINSULA
THE PE NINSUL A HONG KO NG HONG KONG GUEST LIST: Clark Gable, Frank Sinatra, Roger Moore, Maud Adams
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icknamed the Grand Dame of the Far East, the Peninsula Hong Kong has long held ties to the Bond franchise. The Man with the Golden Gun was shot here in the seventies, and the cast and crew — including then-Bond Roger Moore — were guests during filming. Two-time Bond girl Maud Adams called the Peninsula “the best hotel in Hong Kong,” adding, “We were met by Rolls-Royces, which they’re famous for. Each of our suites had its own private valet. We were really treated royally.” Those famed green cars aren’t just for Bond girls; today a fleet of Phantoms is available to escort guests to and fro. The accommodations of choice? The 4,111-square-foot Peninsula Suite, which comes with a media room, dining room, kitchen and terrace and starts at just $21,500 a night.
HOTEL HIGH JINKS SALVADOR DALÍ AT THE ST. REGIS
Throughout the sixties and seventies when other notables headed south for the winter, Salvador Dalí chose to weather the cold at the St. Regis New York. The hotel was delighted to host the surrealist guest, though the staff could hardly ignore his curious behavior. He often returned to the St. Regis with his wife in tow, but she wasn’t the artist’s only company. His pet ocelot, Babou, was usually in attendance as well. His peccadillos were also known to Paris’s Le Meurice, where the indulged ocelot routinely tore the swanky digs to shreds. Wild cats weren’t the only animal Dalí favored. He once demanded a horse be brought to his suite, and on another occasion, he called room service to order a small flock of sheep.
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PRINCESS MAHA BINT MOHAMMED BIN AHMAD AL-SUDAIRI AT SHANGRI-LA No one actually enjoys paying the bill after a lavish holiday, but Princess Maha bint Mohammed bin Ahmad al-Sudairi apparently detests it. After the Saudi royal and her entourage spent five months at Paris’s posh Shangri-La Hotel in 2012, they attempted to check out without paying the bill (reported to be in the millions). Diplomatic intervention was necessary before an agreement was struck and she was permitted to leave. But the hefty hotel bill wasn’t the only debt the princess failed to pay. In response to complaints from Parisian vendors who had provided the royal with goods and services during her French foray, a court confiscated the contents of two local storage units she had leased. The goods stashed there were auctioned off in order to repay her myriad creditors.
HILARY SWANK ET AL. IN CHECHNYA
T H E B E AU -R I VAG E PA L AC E L AUSANNE , SWITZERL AND GUEST LIST: Jimmy Stewart, Ginger Rogers, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton,
Nelson Mandela, Ron Howard
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verlooking the pinch-me blue waters of Lake Geneva, the Beau-Rivage Palace dates back to 1861 and is still considered the finest stay in Switzerland. The resplendent gardens, indoor-outdoor swimming pool and belle époque interiors feel as if you’re staying at a European spa, and the entire place evokes an if-these-walls-could-talk vibe. Likely because the Beau-Rivage has played host to several historic international meetings, including the signing of the Treaty of Ouchy in 1912 (ending the Italo-Turkish War) and the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923. Those pastoral gardens were a place of respite for Coco Chanel, who took up residence in Junior Suite No. 450 in the forties and in Junior Suite No. 460 in the fifties. Today, high-profile guests prefer the Spa Suite, which boasts a private spa area as well as spectacular lake and mountain views from its sixth floor locale, all for a cool 4,500 CHF a night.
In addition to ruling what is quite possibly the most repressive country on the planet, Chechen leader Ramzan Kadyrov is perhaps best known as the first head of state to be banned from Instagram. But even if he can no longer document it on the ’gram, Kadyrov still loves a good party. And thanks to the absurd attendance fees he pays out — reputed to be in the area of half a million dollars — he doesn’t seem to have any trouble filling seats at his soirees. Hilary Swank, Jean-Claude Van Damme, Seal and violinist extraordinaire Vanessa-Mae are among the celebs who chose to put a Chechen stamp in their passports and attend the oligarch’s 2011 birthday celebrations.
MUHAMMAD MUHAMMAD ALI ALI IN IRAQIN IRAQ PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE BEAU-RIVAGE PALACE
Float like a butterfly, sting like a diplomat? In 1990, heavyweight champ Muhammad Ali went to Iraq with the purpose of rescuing American hostages. Taken by Saddam Hussein following the invasion of Kuwait, 15 civilians were being used as human shields, placed in locations deemed likely to be bombed by American forces. Despite Hussein’s initial refusal to meet and the U.S. government’s characterization of the effort as “loose-cannon diplomacy,” Ali persevered. He worked with local media, embraced starstruck Iraqis and reiterated his determination to stay until the Americans were released. When Hussein finally agreed to meet with Ali, the boxer listened patiently while the dictator extolled his virtues. In response, Ali told him he would tell “an honest account” of Iraq. Against the odds, Hussein released all 15 Americans — solidifying the boxer’s title as the Greatest of All Time.
CHARLIE SHEEN AT THE PLAZA
LED ZEPPELIN AT CHATEAU MARMONT
If there were an Oscar for Best Actor in a Hotel Fiasco, it would surely go to Charlie Sheen following his 2010 stay at the Plaza in New York City. For a trip to see Mary Poppins on Broadway, he booked ex-wife Denise Richards and their two young daughters into the Eloise Suite and ensconced himself in an adjoining room down the hall. All was going well until the authorities were called with complaints of loud fighting. Upon their arrival, police found a very naked, very irrational Sheen in the process of destroying his hotel room while his date for the evening, an equally naked (albeit somewhat more rational) porn star named Christina Walsh, hid in the bathroom. Neither the Plaza nor Walsh pressed charges against Sheen, who later apologized and offered to pay the hotel $7,000 in damages.
Legendary rockers Led Zeppelin had a penchant for hotel destruction, particularly for throwing televisions out windows. The band’s behavior was so well-known that members were forced to use false names not to outwit paparazzi, but to gain re-entry into inns that had banned them. As the story goes, a hotel front desk manager once asked the band’s tour manager, Richard Cole, what it was like to toss a television. In response, Cole handed the guy $500 and said, “Here you go, mate. Toss a TV courtesy of Led Zeppelin.” Not to be outdone, drummer John Bonham spiced up a 1970s stay at Los Angeles’s Chateau Marmont by driving a motorcycle through the hotel’s lobby. The ill-mannered thrill rider liked it so much, he also drove through the lobbies of the Andaz West Hollywood and a Hyatt.
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C ROW N TOW E R S MELBOURNE , AUSTRALIA GUEST LIST: Beyoncé and Jay-Z, Bill Gates, Sir Elton John, George Clooney
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|room so opulent, it’s only available upon request. Costing a reported $20,000 a night, the 10,800-square-foot Chairman’s Villa at Crown Towers Melbourne is among the most expensive and most exclusive in Australia. Here, there’s no need to leave or to lift a finger. Included in the grand penthouse are four bedrooms, a two-story living room, a private gym, a massage parlor, a study, a pool table and of course a grand piano — perhaps played by past guest Sir Elton John.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY CROWN TOWERS MELBOURNE
JOHN F. KENNEDY AT THE MAYFLOWER
Called “Washington’s second best address” by President Harry Truman, the Mayflower Hotel has been at the center of political circles since it opened in 1925. One of the hotel’s most loyal guests, John F. Kennedy rented an apartment here in the fifties when he was a congressman and maintained a suite well into his presidency to help expedite his legendary trysts. A biography describes “intimate get-togethers and room-service dinners for two” between Kennedy and actresses Audrey Hepburn and Lee Remick. He was also said to have entertained mafia-connected mistress Judith Exner here. But the most egregious act has to be his dalliance with actress Angie Dickinson. Rumor has it that during his 1961 inaugural ball, JFK left Jackie downstairs while Dickinson was secretly led upstairs for a presidential romp.
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JOHNNY DEPP AT THE MARK Edward Scissorhands went on quite a rampage at the Mark Hotel in New York City when he and then-girlfriend Kate Moss visited in 1994. According to police responding to the call, “There was glass all over the place and furniture upside down and broken table legs.” Depp blamed the staggering damage on an (apparently very angry) armadillo he claimed had been hiding in the closet. Unfortunately for Depp, the malevolent mammal was never found and the actor was arrested. Director John Waters, a pal of his, said at the time of the incident, “The room service must have been bad.”
STING STING IN UZBEKISTAN IN UZBEKISTAN
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE DORCHESTER COLLECTION
Even though he was “well-aware of the Uzbek president’s appalling reputation in the field of human rights as well as the environment,” Sting nonetheless accepted a 2010 invitation from Islam Karimov’s eldest daughter to perform at a private event. Apparently, the singer’s commitment to his wallet is deeper than his commitment to humanity as he pocketed a reported $2 million for the performance. In defense of his actions, he claimed to believe the concert was sponsored by UNICEF, who deftly denied any such involvement. One can only wonder if the playlist that night included “If You Love Somebody Set Them Free.”
ANGELINA ANGELINA JOLIE JOLIE THE WORLD’S IN IN THE WORLD’S MOSTCONFLICTED CONFLICTED MOST COUNTRIES COUNTRIES
H OTEL B E L-A I R LOS ANGELES GUEST LIST: John Wayne, Cary Grant, Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor,
Oprah Winfrey, Julia Roberts
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f there were ever a property known for its exclusivity, it would be Hotel Bel-Air. The property’s 103 guest rooms — including the famed Presidential Suite that starts at $11,000 a night — are so well-hidden among the 12 acres of verdant gardens that three members of the Beatles (Paul, George and Ringo) all stayed here at the same time without realizing that the others were here. This celebrity clubhouse has served as not only a refuge for the rich and famous but also a home to many. When Marilyn Monroe lived here, she was so shy that she snuck in and out of the hotel in a dark veil and never came to the desk for her mail. (Fun fact: She also packed her suite’s walk-in closet with 558+ pairs of shoes.) Judy Garland’s favorite room was 118 (now 132), while Doris Day preferred the Chalon Suite. And Tony Curtis, who lived here in the fifties, called the hotel “the best wife” he ever had. “If I could, I would marry Hotel Bel-Air tomorrow,” he said. “She doesn’t ask me where I’ve been all night. She doesn’t mind if I bring a girl home. She makes my bed every day, feeds me regularly, takes my messages faithfully and puts my laundry in little boxes tied up with a ribbon.”
She might need a security team to go to Starbucks, but that hasn’t stopped Angelina Jolie from traveling to a host of dangerous places in the name of humanity. Of her time in Sudan, she wrote in the Washington Post that “nothing separates us from Darfur but a small stretch of desert and a line on a map. All the same, it’s a line I can’t cross.” At the time of her 2007 visit, the United Nations put the death toll there at 200,000, with another 2.5 million people driven from their homes. The next year, Jolie journeyed to Afghanistan on behalf of refugees returning from Pakistan after the defeat of the taliban. And just last fall, the actress made a special trip to meet with displaced Venezuelan refugees as a UNHCR Special Envoy.
EDIE SEDGWICK AT THE CHELSEA
NICOLE KIDMAN AT THE FOUR SEASONS
Andy Warhol muse Edie Sedgwick managed to light her room at New York City’s Chelsea Hotel on fire in 1964 by reportedly smoking in bed and leaving candles burning overnight. Alas, it wasn’t Sedgwick’s first fire; she landed at the Chelsea after burning down her Manhattan apartment several months earlier. Her penchant for open flames was known to another hotel resident, Leonard Cohen, who had lectured her on the dangers of unattended candles. Following the fire, hotel management considered Sedgwick such a liability that they moved her to a room above the lobby, where they felt they could reasonably keep an eye on her and prevent further catastrophe. Coincidentally, Sedgwick’s room was just down the hall from room 106, where Sid Vicious allegedly murdered girlfriend Nancy Spungen some 10 years later.
Nicole Kidman apparently puts great stock in the restorative powers of beauty sleep. In planning a brief stay at the Four Seasons Chicago, the Australian actress insisted that her room be made up with her own imported Italian sheets. What’s more, she had them delivered to the hotel with an illustrated manual outlining precisely how the bed was to be made. The punch line? Despite such demands, she never actually showed up. And just in case meticulously planned REM doesn’t do the trick in keeping Kidman’s alabaster skin looking dewy soft, the actress has also been known to have her assistants swap out any 60-watt lightbulbs in her hotel suites with more flattering 40-watt varieties. –G.S.
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Creating New Life for You and Your Home Susan Gilmore Photography
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Distinguished individuals and families have long turned to the Distinctive Homes DivisionÂŽ of Coldwell Banker Burnet to acquire and market the finest properties across the North. Our ability to provide discretion, expertise and knowledge is frankly unmatched. When it comes to luxury real estate, we dominate the market.
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MARK GRIEGER THE GRIEGER GROUP
WHEN SUCCESS MATTERS. LAKE MINNETONKA LUXURY
6 1 2 - 3 8 2 - 4 9 5 2 | M A R K G R I E G E R @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
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5 BED / 4 BATH $2,499,000
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5 BED / 5 BATH $819,000
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6 1 2 - 7 2 0 - 4 8 2 7 | J A D A M S @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
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Spectacular 10-acre northwoods setting on Lake Lydiard. Mike Sharratt–designed, Kyle Hunt–built. 4 BED / 6 BATH $4,795,000
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Private 2.6-acre Grand View Lodge–like estate with lake views and a 32-foot dock slip. 6 BED / 8 BATH $2,995,000
Landschute-built with timeless details, 2+ bedroom suites, elevator, and rooftop deck with lake views. 2+ BED / 4 BATH $1,895,000
Sited on 1 acre in Cottagewood with lake views, main-level master and an incredible backyard. 6 BED / 5 BATH $1,590,000
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STICKNEY REAL ESTATE 9 5 2 - 4 7 6 - 3 6 9 4 | G S T I C K N E Y @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
3350 Fox Street, Orono
A world-class combination of timeless architectural design and Old World elegance. 5 BED / 8 BATH $12,900,000
2630 Countryside Drive W., Orono
5820 Loring Drive, Minnetrista Completely remodeled masterpiece overlooking 153 feet of picturesque Upper Lake shoreline. 6 BED / 6 BATH PRICE UPON REQUEST
415 Indian Mound Street, #202, Wayzata
Incredibly remodeled home boasting high-end finishes on a sprawling 2-acre setting. 5 BED / 6 BATH $1,575,000
Stunning condo with high-end finishes, open floor plan, den and 2 underground parking spaces. 2 BED / 2 BATH PRICE UPON REQUEST
4936 Vine Hill Road, Deephaven
1546 E. Minnehaha Parkway, Minneapolis
Beautifully updated home on 1+ private acres. Main-level living with upscale finishes. 4 BED / 3 BATH $924,900
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ®
Charming updated Tudor offering gorgeous south-facing hilltop views of Minnehaha Creek. 5 BED / 4 BATH $579,000
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GREGG LARSEN
6 1 2 - 7 1 9 - 4 4 7 7 | G L A R S E N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
4423 North Shore Drive, Orono
2745 Shadywood Road, Orono
1065 Bayside Lane, Minnetrista
1348 Rest Point Circle, Orono
800 Navajo Road W., Medina
7570 Dogwood Road, Chanhassen
Beautiful 2-story home sited on 1.5+ acres. 700+ feet of Lake Minnetonka shoreline. 5 BED / 4 BATH $1,885,000
Beautiful soft contemporary home with long southerly views of Jennings Bay and lakeside pool. 4 BED / 6 BATH $1,799,900
Classic brick Colonial with rolling, park-like grounds and stunning in-ground pool. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,299,900
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Nantucket beach house on Lake Minnetonka. Private peninsula with 600+ feet of lakeshore. 3 BED / 6 BATH PRICE UPON REQUEST
Stunning home on Lake Minnetonka with panoramic southerly lake views. Indoor sport court. 4 BED / 5 BATH $1,499,900
Stunning home on park-like lot with towering maples and west-facing Lake Minnewashta lakefront. 4 BED / 4 BATH $1,299,900
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495 Oxford Road Orono Lake Minnetonka estate with grand indoor and outdoor entertaining spaces, 2+ acres, and 200+ feet of west-facing lakeshore. On a private cul-de-sac in award-winning Orono Schools. Room for a pool. 5 BED / 5 BATH $4,495,000
Catherine Wersal 612-597-6661 crwersal@cbburnet.com
1230 Woodhill Avenue Orono Tucked back on 2+ acres with serene gardens, trees and wildlife sits this private Orono home. Views overlooking a beautiful backyard create the perfect setting for friends and family. 5 BED / 5 BATH $999,000
Decker and Bonnie Velie Velie Real Estate 612-747-5097 decker.velie@cbburnet.com 612-964-7865 bjvelie@cbburnet.com
214 Byrondale Avenue Wayzata Wooddale Builders is proud to offer brand-new construction in vibrant downtown Wayzata. Walk to Lake Minnetonka, shops, restaurants and more. Incredible value offered with high-end finishes and wide open floor plan. 3 BED / 3 BATH $949,900
Cindy Redmond
612-850-7015 cindy@cindyredmond.com
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ÂŽ
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JEFFREY DEWING
6 1 2 - 5 9 7 - 0 4 2 4 | J D E W I N G @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
2650 Northview Drive, Minnetrista
2520 Willow Drive, Medina
116 Salem Church Road, Sunfish Lake
625 Spring Hill Road, Orono
18640 Saint Mellion Place, Eden Prairie
2020 Edgewood Court, Chanhassen
Beautifully remodeled Whaletail Lake estate with guesthouse on 40 acres with 975 feet of shoreline. 4 BED / 6 BATH $3,575,000
Stunning East Coast–influenced masterpiece with high-end finishes. 3+ private acres. 4 BED / 4 BATH PRICE UPON REQUEST
Impeccably updated retreat offering beautiful architectural details. Serene setting on 1+ acre. 5 BED / 6 BATH $1,049,000
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Artful Living
Breathtaking Stonewood-built masterpiece. High-end finishes and indoor sport court. 5+ acres. 5 BED / 7 BATH $2,995,000
Gorgeous Sharratt-designed home set upon 4+ acres with picturesque views of Long Lake. 4 BED / 6 BATH $1,395,000
Incredibly designed and updated. Cul-de-sac setting in sought-after Pinehurst. Minnetonka schools. 5 BED / 6 BATH $998,000
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KRISTI WEINSTOCK THE WEINSTOCK GROUP 6 1 2 - 3 0 9 - 8 3 3 2 | K D W E I N S T O C K @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
18664 Melrose Chase, Eden Prairie
6807 3rd Street SE, Buffalo
19705 Chartwell Hill, Shorewood
4240 Circle Drive, Deephaven
Custom-built home by L. Cramer and a former Parade model with expansive views of the 12th fairway. Screened-in porch overlooking the golf course. Regional parks, lakes, trails, community spaces as well as Bearpath Golf and Country Club add to the fun. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,185,000
Stately custom-built home offering gracious and tranquil living on a private, wooded lot. This former Parade home welcomes you to a spacious foyer, revealing a cozy sunroom, large bedrooms, remodeled kitchen and wonderful entertaining spaces. 6 BED / 5 BATH $850,000
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ÂŽ
INTEGRITY. KNOWLEDGE. EXPERIENCE.
Perfect for the buyer with cars and toys. Enjoy this custom home on Lake Charlotte with 150+ feet of south-facing lakeshore. Great water quality and fully recreational lake. Wonderful open layout is excellent for entertaining, with plenty of room for guests or family. 7 BED / 5 BATH $1,125,000
Charming home on a large lot provides a very private and serene setting on 1.6 acres. Spacious living areas make this home great for family and entertaining. Enjoy this beautiful home as is or take the opportunity to expand or build your dream home. 4 BED / 2 BATH $550,000
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793 Ferndale Road N., Orono
2821 Westwood Road, Minnetonka Beach
Gary
Gary
A calming retreat of bespoke details with a $100,000+ refresh. Pool, privacy, tranquility. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,495,000 and I an
Petersen
952-451-0284 | garypetersen@cbburnet.com
and I an
Petersen
952-451-0284 | garypetersen@cbburnet.com
5665 Archer Lane N., Plymouth
3621 Landings Drive, Excelsior
Alisa Piazza and Erik Myhran
Erik Myhran
1105 Tonkawa Road, Orono
7104 Pioneer Creek Road, Independence
Kathy Sawicki, Sawicki Family Realtors
Kathy Sawicki, Sawicki Family Realtors
New construction by Creek Hill Custom Homes. Exceptionally designed in Wayzata schools. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,175,000 612-751-0976 | lisa.piazza@cbburnet.com
Stunning sunsets and panoramic lake views. Exceptional 1-acre site on Lake Minnetonka. $1,875,000 612-270-1001 | ksawicki@cbburnet.com
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Sprawling lakeshore lot with spectacular views of Lafayette Bay. Craft your dream home. $1,350,000
Artful Living
Prairie-style new construction in Minnewashta Landings. Custom finishes. Minnetonka schools. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,139,000 612-810-3745 | emyhran@cbburnet.com
Beautiful 10-acre site in the heart of horse country. Concept plan available. $500,000 612-270-1001 | ksawicki@cbburnet.com
COLDW E L L BAN K E R GLO BAL LUXURY SM
KRISTA WOLTER REAL ESTATE GROUP 6 1 2 - 2 4 7 - 5 1 0 6 | K J W O LT E R @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
6625 Mohawk Trail, Edina
Island Road, North Oaks
13001 Twilight Road, Onamia
Evergreen Road, North Oaks
Duck Pass Road, North Oaks
6980 Mulberry Trail NW, Walker
Architect-designed midcentury modern masterpiece on a hilltop with privacy galore. 4 BED / 4 BATH $1,795,000
Historic perfection with 400 feet of frontage on Lake Mille Lacs with separate guesthouse. 4 BED / 3 BATH $1,295,000
Midcentury modern lake home with open floor plan is a perfect 10 both inside and out. 3 BED / 4 BATH $1,150,000
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ®
Private retreat in North Oaks on Pleasant Lake. Generous spaces with lake views. 4 BED / 5 BATH $1,490,000
All-brick home with patterned hardwood floors, curved staircase and brick-paver driveway. 6 BED / 5 BATH $1,175,000
Charming lakeshore retreat on 3+ acres with 230+ feet of frontage on Leech Lake. 6 BED / 5 BATH $575,000
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BERG LARSEN GROUP
6 1 2 - 9 2 5 - 8 4 0 4 | B A R RYA N D C H A D @ B E R G L A R S E N G R O U P. C O M
1721 Morgan Avenue S., Minneapolis
5016 Skyline Drive, Edina
4604 Merilane, Edina
1601 W. 22nd Street, Minneapolis
4637 E. Lake Harriet Parkway, Minneapolis
2600 W. Lafayette Road, Orono
Treetop Kenwood Park setting. Extensively updated. Close to Lake of the Isles. 4 BED / 4 BATH $1,345,000
Wonderful Rolling Green value overlooking golf course. As-is or as a building site. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,395,000
Offered for the first time since 1937. Fabulous sunsets on .34-acre site. 4 BED / 5 BATH $1,500,000
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Gorgeous 1+ acre with stunning new kitchen, extensive terraces and outdoor pool. 4 BED / 4 BATH $1,695,000
Sun-filled home ½ block to Lake of the Isles. New kitchen, family room, ample master suite. 3 BED / 3 BATH $1,150,000
Phenomenal 160-foot riprapped shoreline on Lafayette Bay. Mint condition with screen porch. 5 BED / 5 BATH $2,295,000
COLDW E L L BAN K E R GLO BAL LUXURY SM
MATCHING HOMES WITH LIFESTYLES
11353 Fetterly Road, Minnetonka
1704 Kenwood Parkway, Minneapolis
Exceptional architectural gem. Private 1.7-acre estate with wooded and wetland views. 5 BED / 6 BATH $2,650,000
Extensively updated home overlooking Kenwood Park. Newer kitchen. Fresh decor. 3 BED / 5 BATH $1,695,000
830 Belanger Drive, Anoka
4 Merilane, Edina
6620 Iroquois Trail, Edina
3603 Abbott Avenue S., Minneapolis
Amazing Mississippi River estate. 1 owner. 1988-built home. 5 BED / 6 BATH $895,000
Outstanding kitchen/family room complex. ¾ acre with private yard and pool. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,295,000
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ®
Custom build enjoys private 1.18-acre site with pool and pond in premier Rolling Green. 5 BED / 7 BATH $2,995,000
Open-concept twin home 1 block to Lake Calhoun. Lovely master suite. Private yard. 4 BED / 4 BATH $1,139,000
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BRUCE BIRKELAND GROUP 6 1 2 - 4 1 4 - 3 9 5 7 | B B I R K E L A N D @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
2545 Huntington Avenue, St. Louis Park
2750 Woolsey Lane, Woodland
6429 Indian Hills Road, Edina
5430 Ridgewood Cove, Minnetrista
10932 Mount Curve Road, Eden Prairie
4625 Bassett Creek Lane, Golden Valley
Landmark contemporary estate with walls of glass, world-class finishes, and guesthouse. 4 BED / 5 BATH $3,850,000
Majestic Italian stone villa. Soaring interior volume, owner’s wing, elevator and pool. 5 BED / 9 BATH $2,750,000
Designer-inspired home overlooking Olympic Hills Golf Course with panoramic views. 5 BED / 4 BATH $725,000
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Park-like setting on private channel with 300 feet of shoreline, pool and tennis court. 5 BED / 9 BATH $3,495,000
Perfectly tucked into nature with ultimate privacy. Soaring volume and walls of glass. 5 BED / 4 BATH $1,495,000
Midcentury modern designer home set within one-of-a-kind park-like woodland setting. 5 BED / 3 BATH $725,000
COLDW E L L BAN K E R GLO BAL LUXURY SM
HIGH-END, HIGH-TOUCH, DOWN-TO-EARTH BRUCE BIRKELAND HAS BEEN A LEADING TWIN CITIES REALTOR FOR 30 YEARS, WITH 1,000+ HOMES SOLD AND $1 BILLION IN LUXURY HOME SALES.
2427 E. Lake of
the I sles
Parkway, Minneapolis
4315 E. Lake Harriet Boulevard, Minneapolis
2212 W. Lake of
the I sles
Parkway, Minneapolis
2406 W. Lake of
Signature Spanish Revival with theater, exercise room, elevator and sweeping lake views. 4 BED / 8 BATH $5,995,000
Remarkable estate with magnificent interior spaces and expansive water views. 7 BED / 9 BATH $3,250,000
1122 Mount Curve Avenue, Minneapolis Exceptional Colonial estate with awe-inspiring spaces and richly ornate details. 7 BED / 7 BATH $2,445,000
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ®
English-inspired Tudor with world-class luxurious renovations and historical architecture. 4 BED / 6 BATH $3,600,000
the I sles
Parkway, Minneapolis
Impeccable English Tudor with timeless design in a perfect lake- and park-wrapped location. 5 BED / 5 BATH $2,695,000
4701 E. Lake Harriet Boulevard, Minneapolis French-inspired Tudor on sprawling corner lot with picturesque views of Lake Harriet. 5 BED / 6 BATH $1,550,000
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JOHN MCWHITE
6 1 2 - 8 0 5 - 1 5 7 7 | J K M C W H I T E @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
5625 Interlachen Circle, Edina
Magnificent custom home on 1.4 acres. Private location yet close to everything. 7,502 finished square feet. 5 BED / 6 BATH $1,695,000
4521 Tower Street, Edina
4117 Abbott Avenue S., Minneapolis
5231 Green Farms Road, Edina
4502 Oak Drive, Edina
Completely redone with lovely finishes and main-level master suite. Huge, level lot. 4,400 finished square feet. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,395,000
Entertainer’s dream home. Updated rambler with large rooms and 4,700 finished square feet. Private yard. 4 BED / 4 BATH $799,900
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4850 Timber Ridge Circle, Minnetonka
Stunning home perfectly sited on a private lot overlooking Highland Lake. 6,400 finished square feet. 4 BED / 5 BATH $1,995,000
Artful Living
Completely updated home in the heart of Linden Hills. Private master suite. 4 BED / 4 BATH $1,025,000
Charming home in mint condition. Updated kitchen, open main level. Perfect location. 3 BED / 2 BATH $674,900
COLDW E L L BAN K E R GLO BAL LUXURY SM
MICHAEL WILLE THE WILLE GROUP
EXPERIENCED ADVOCATE. RESULTS-DRIVEN LEADER.
6 1 2 - 8 6 0 - 7 0 4 0 | M J W I L L E @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
4511 E. Lake Harriet Parkway, Minneapolis
1303 Mount Curve Avenue, Minneapolis
2821 Benton Boulevard, Minneapolis
120 Meadow Lane N., Golden Valley
2416 Sheridan Avenue S., Minneapolis
4905 Yuma Lane N., Plymouth
This Georgian-style home on Lake Harriet has a conservatory, pool and more. Panoramic views. 6 BED / 6 BATH $2,495,000
Great city lakes location. This layout is ideal for everyday living and entertaining. Pool. 4 BED / 5 BATH $1,099,000
Truly charming turnkey Tudor with a beautiful yard just 3 blocks to Isles and Cedar lakes. 4 BED / 3 BATH $749,000
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ®
Best value in Minneapolis. Extraordinary craftsmanship and timeless elegance. Elevator. 3 BED / 5 BATH $1,749,000
Unique opportunity to own a multipurpose home in Tyrol Hills. In-law suite. Huge lot. 4 BED / 6 BATH $749,000
Established neighborhood home with all the amenities. Overlooks pool, yard and golf course. 5 BED / 5 BATH $724,000
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1330 Willowbrook Drive, Medina
1640 Kenwood Parkway, Minneapolis
Bob Kessler
Bob Kessler
Stunning Charles Cudd custom-built home. Impeccably maintained on 4.7 private acres. 4 BED / 5 BATH $2,495,000 and J ose
Kosar
612-386-6148 | rkessler@cbburnet.com
and J ose
Kosar
612-386-6148 | rkessler@cbburnet.com
4889 E. Lake Harriet Parkway, Minneapolis
1918 Humboldt Avenue S., Minneapolis
Sarah Balestri
Fran and Barb Davis
18322 Kylie Court, Minnetonka
5007 Dupont Avenue S., Minneapolis
Craig Moen
Ruth Whitney Bowe
One of the largest, most private lots on Lake Harriet. Elevator and 4 garage stalls. 5 BED / 6 BATH $1,395,000 612-590-7703 | smbalestri@cbburnet.com
Exceptional craftsmanship. Walkout 1-story overlooking woods and marshlands. Minnetonka schools. 4 BED / 5 BATH $1,100,000 612-850-7639 | cmoen@cbburnet.com
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Exceptional architect-designed townhouse with 10-foot ceilings overlooking Kenwood Park. 3 BED / 4 BATH $1,295,000
Artful Living
Lowry Hill original beauty combined with modern living updates. Great chef’s kitchen. 6 BED / 5 BATH $1,250,000 612-925-8408 | fdavis@cbburnet.com
Stately Lynnhurst residence combines the ease of modern living with the elegance of the early 1900s. 5 BED / 3 BATH $795,000 612-805-7412 | rwbowe@cbburnet.com
COLDW E L L BAN K E R GLO BAL LUXURY SM
JIMMY AND TASH FOGEL THE FOGEL GROUP
THE HOUSE DOCTOR. EXPERT NEGOTIATOR.
6 1 2 - 8 8 9 - 2 0 0 0 | J I M M Y @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
1716 Colfax Avenue S. Minneapolis Luxurious elegance reminiscent of the double gallery–style maison of New Orleans. Spacious yet intimate and an artistic wonder in itself. Rare aesthetic touches such as imported French wallpaper and custom carpentry throughout.
6 BED / 8 BATH PRICE UPON REQUEST
2601 Euclid Place Minneapolis Elegant Italian Renaissance Revival residence located on a corner lot just steps from Lake of the Isles. Classic elegance throughout. Impressive foyer is suitable for hosting special events.
6 BED / 6 BATH PRICE UPON REQUEST
602 River Street Minneapolis The Landings. Live near the Mississippi River. Spacious, contemporary end-unit townhome. Beautiful detail throughout. Large deck off living room, dining room and kitchen, and second deck off master bedroom.
3 BED / 4 BATH PRICE UPON REQUEST
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ®
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O’FLANNIGAN GROUP 6 5 1 - 4 3 0 - 7 7 5 9 | S O F L A N N I G A N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
RETREAT AND RESIDENTIAL PROPERTIES
16200 45th Street S., Afton
16022 Oakhill Road N., Scandia
N8325 1126th Street, River Falls, Wisconsin
4401 Pateley Bridge Avenue S., Afton
4835 5th Avenue, Spooner, Wisconsin
1397 45th Avenue, Amery, Wisconsin
Private 12-acre estate with unlimited views of St. Croix River and 185 feet of riverfront. 5 BED / 5 BATH $1,689,000
SKYCREEK, an architect-designed 19-acre retreat on the Kinnickinnic River. 1 BED / 2 BATH $869,000
225 heavily wooded acres with private lake and cabin. Ideal getaway 2 hours from Twin Cities. 2 BED / 3 BATH $825,000
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SELLING WATERFRONT,
Artful Living
78 acres of total privacy with award-winning architect-designed home in St. Croix Valley. 3 BED / 3 BATH $1,100,000
Maple tree–lined drive for 7-acre home with separate studio building. Complete privacy. 4 BED / 4 BATH $830,000
Gorgeous Apple River setting for this 30-acre estate with timber-frame mansion. 6 BED / 8 BATH $1,398,000
COLDW E L L BAN K E R GLO BAL LUXURY SM
PATRICK MCGRATH 6 5 1 - 6 5 3 - 2 4 4 9 | P M C G R AT H @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
7660 N. Field Ridge Road Grant Thoughtfully designed and positioned on magical Pine Tree Lake. Private 2.5-acre estate setting only 30 minutes to downtown. Beautifully detailed inside and out.
4 BED / 4½ BATH $2,850,000
Cedarleaf Point Mahtomedi New construction. 9 wooded and lakefront lots on scenic Echo Lake. Quiet setting in convenient location. Award-winning schools. Custom design with DeWitt Homes.
4 BED / 4 BATH STARTING AT $950,000
9780 Hidden Glade Road Grant Beautiful wooded retreat close to White Bear Lake yet feels like you’re at the cabin up north. Awe-inspiring windows bring in the sun, woods and wildlife.
4 BED / 3½ BATH $950,000
C O L DW E L L BANKER BU RNET D IST INC T IVE HOM ES ®
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Help make a difference. Our mission is to support the housingrelated needs of people at all stages of life in the communities we serve. www.CBBurnetGives.com
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We Care. We Support. We Give Back. Winter 2019
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Minnesota’s Luxury Custom Home Builder and Remodeler Since 1975 Building developments in Edina, Minnetonka, Mendota Heights, Medina / Orono schools, and on buyer’s choice lots across the Twin Cities. WooddaleBuilders.com 952-345-0543 162
Artful Living
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
HOME
BUILD CABIN R E N O VA T I O N DESIGN COMMU NITY
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BUILD
OF GENIUS
Home
DENALI CUSTOM HOMES CREATES A SOPHISTICATED FAMILY ABODE, DRESSED IN ALL BLACK AND WHITE. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
B Y K AT I E D O H M A N
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Home
BUILD
When David Bieker and Chad Mayes of Denali Custom Homes took on this Minnetonka new
build, the envisioning was largely already done. The clients knew exactly what they wanted: traditional design with a modern flow that would work for a growing family, done up entirely in black and white. The young couple aimed to build a home that could expand to corral their three boys, and they were willing to wait for the perfect thing. After a year of scouting sites, Denali landed on a right-sized Minnetonka lot. “They had very specific ideas about what they wanted and where they wanted it,” Bieker explains. “And their very specific taste allowed us to really get to know them.” When designing the framework for the home, “family and friends took precedent over everything else,” adds Mayes. “The location, the lot, the land — the focus was making sure it was livable for the kids.” Priorities included a big backyard, a four-car garage, and bedrooms and bathrooms on the second level. Bieker notes that although they designed the residence for livability right now, they also kept an eye on longevity. For instance, they eschewed a traditional Jack-and-Jill bathroom for private ones. Adding to the house’s architectural clout are the myriad windows letting light pour in as well as the entryway tower stair that creates immediate drama. “It felt right to let a lot of light into the home because it faces north and also to create this amazing design element to really complement the entryway,” Bieker says. “Clients might have an idea of what they want and can describe that to us, and it’s our job to interpret what they are saying.” Which is precisely how the tower stair came to fruition. Then came the interior design, which the family was very set on: everything in black and white. “People hear about kids living in all-white houses and think it sounds crazy,” notes Bieker. “But surprisingly, the white houses hold up quite well.” Denali collaborated with Alexander Design Group and Studio M Interiors to bring the interiors to life. Along with the owners, they proved black and white isn’t boring, but rather super sophisticated and full of visual interest. Shiplap hallways, stone wall accents, patterned wallpaper and herringbone tile provide major punch. The rare pops of color — a rainbow rug in the mudroom, yellow seats on Saarinen-style chairs, and painted feature walls in the boys’ rooms — feel like joyous acts of rebellion. “Projects like these are really fun, because it’s not the same old thing,” Bieker says. “The clients’ interests and personalities are really reflected in this house.” That is, a total new design-build in anything-but-basic black and white.
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RC artlive winter19 horiz2.qxp_Layout 1 11/12/18 2:45 PM Page 1
JESSICA CHARLES • HIGHLAND HOUSE • HANCOCK & MOORE H IC KO R Y C H A I R • V I SUA L C OM FORT & C O • R E G I N A AN D R E W
r ab b it c ree k m n. c o m
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6 12 .3 5 4. 7 102
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
Home
ROCK STEADY
CABIN
AN INSPIRED ISLAND LODGE TAKES SHAPE JUST A STONE’S THROW FROM LAKE SUPERIOR. BY LINDA MACK
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Home
CABIN
Architect: Jill Lorenz of Su Casa Design Contractors: Doug McCorison and Gene Nelson • Interior Designer: Mark Suess • Stonemason: Shane Schaaf of Earthscape Stoneworks + Design • Kolbe Windows & Doors • Maison Kitchen + Bath • Amsum & Ash • •
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING AND STONEHOUSE
The Team
Compass
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The first stone came from Michigan Island. The last stone came
from Michigan Island. The 2,000 some stones in between were plucked from the 21 Apostle Islands off the Wisconsin shoreline of Lake Superior as well as the owner’s land. At first, Frank and Jill Roffers planned to simply build a screen porch and bunkhouse on an old foundation next to their rustic Madeline Island cabin. But when they received the recommendation to enclose it, they heeded the advice. And Frank started collecting rocks for the fireplace that would eventually become the structure’s centerpiece. He and daughter Eliza, then 11, would hop in the family’s Boston Whaler and head out to one of the scenic uninhabited isles. “And we’d get the finest stone we could find,” he explains. They’d carefully mark on a map the date and location of each island visit. Five years later, the Roffers are enjoying the soaring fireplace and its namesake Stone Lodge. “It always adds a dynamic when there’s something personal like that,” notes Minneapolis stonemason Shane Schaaf of Earthscape Stoneworks + Design, who worked on the project. The simple yet sophisticated structure’s sloping roof and rectangular shape mimic the look of the old cabin but, with the help of Kolbe Windows & Doors, take it to dramatic new heights. It sits on open land, offering panoramic views of Lake Superior. The lodge evolved along the way. There wasn’t going to be a loft, but the 24-foot-high ceilings allow for an open bedroom reachable by ship’s ladder stairs. There wasn’t going to be a screen porch because the front deck is plenty large, but it made sense to roof over a back deck and screen it in rather than leave it open. Furnished with a table, chairs and a low-country swinging bed, it is now Jill’s favorite place to read — or, on a warm summer night, sleep. There wasn’t going to be a window in the studio-sized kitchen, but adding one lets in light and a view of the ever-changing lake. Jill assumed she’d choose neutral-colored countertops to complement the industrial-chic decor, “but when I saw this Brazilian quartzite at the Amsum & Ash warehouse, it reminded me of Lake Superior,” she explains. Its swirling lines add depth to the space’s charcoal-colored Leicht cabinets and European appliances. The oversize furniture designed by Mark Suess enlivens the loft-like space. An aptly branded Big Ass Fan adds an industrial look and scale that play off the salvaged barn wood siding and Douglas fir beams. Throughout the process, there was the added challenge of getting building materials to the island via ferry. With only one bedroom and the loft, “it’s small, so we can’t have much clutter,” says Jill. “I like that.” And while the Roffers still occasionally retreat to their cozy original cabin, Stone Lodge allows for a new experience: visiting Madeline Island in winter.
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R E N OVAT I O N
Sweet Spot RESTAURATEUR STEPHANIE SHIMP BRINGS COMMERCIAL EFFICIENCY INTO HER HISTORIC KENWOOD HOME.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
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C
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CM
MY
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CMY
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Step into the spacious, beautifully lit kitchen of Minneapolis restaurateur
Stephanie Shimp’s historic Kenwood home, and it quickly becomes clear this is no run-of-the-mill residential kitchen. That welcoming lighting comes from a layered blend of sconces, under-cabinet lights and an art deco chandelier, all on dimmers to create specific effects. That spacious feel comes from an expertly designed floor plan that relegates functional areas to the perimeter and entertaining to the center island. The range, meanwhile, isn’t merely a range, but a professional-grade BlueStar range with customized mixed metals and hot pink knobs. Thoughtful details elevate the room from ordinary to extraordinary thanks to the expertise of Vujovich Design Director Lori Balestri. “The original kitchen was a very small, early 1900s–era space,” she notes. “It was connected to the rest of the home by a service staircase and was most likely used by servants.” Shimp, co-owner of Blue Plate Restaurant Company, loved the original art deco aesthetic but literally felt short on space. “I love to cook and entertain, so eventually I needed something more usable than a tiny refrigerator and short 1950s cabinets,” she explains. Today, the revived room marries fashion and function, but with the special touch of a restaurateur who knew which commercial details would make a residential kitchen more effective. Maintaining the home’s historic charm without sacrificing on size and style was crucial for the Vujovich team. “When Stephanie first came to
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us, she thought she might need an addition on the back of the home to get the space she wanted,” says Balestri. “My priority was figuring out how to adjust the existing square footage to fit the way modern families function.” Creative workarounds, such as removing the staircase and opening up adjacent rooms, nearly doubled the kitchen’s size. “Aesthetically, I translated Stephanie’s personal sense of style into the kitchen,” she says. The foodie appreciates classic, timeless style with character, so Balestri opted for a custom BlueStar range with open-flame burners as well as a makeup air system as would exist in a commercial kitchen. That serious machinery is balanced by cheerful hot pink knobs, an homage to Shimp’s signature color. “Most chefs don’t use microwaves, and neither does Stephanie,” Balestri notes. “We installed a pullout steam oven and a warming drawer instead, which are perfect for heating up leftovers.” A regular sink as well as a prep sink on the island allow Shimp to cook while chatting with guests or kids. Small touches, like placing the KitchenAid mixer at waist height so as to avoid constantly needing to store a heavy device, create ease. The room is even sectioned into zones by function: prepping, baking, entertaining and eating. Finally, and most importantly for a historic house, the updated kitchen feels like a natural extension of the original home. “When we design or build, we ensure that any changes we make feel cohesive,” says Balestri. “No matter how gorgeous the home is, you can’t tell where the old ends and the new begins.”
Don’t be left in the dark
Illuminate your view
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DESIGN
Sleek Sensibility
DOM INTERIORS’ ASCENT SYSTEM INFUSES LIVABLE LUXURY INTO ANY HOME. BY MERRITT RETHLAKE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
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Scratch-resistant. Heat-resistant. Trend-resistant. The beauty of DOM Interiors’ Ascent cabinetry
system lies in its seamless blending of Italian style and American accessibility. Just peek inside this Excelsior home, whose kitchen, bathrooms, laundry room, wet bar and back foyer are outfitted entirely with this durable modern solution. This residence was designed to echo the warm, contemporary look crafted by Spence Developments while keeping budget in mind — which is where DOM Interiors came in. “We developed a line of American-minded, Italian-made cabinetry to make Italian design attainable,” says Regional Sales Director Katie Stewart. “Our model allows us to bring the luxury look to the market at an accessible price point. With the Ascent line, we help people achieve their design goals without sacrificing on quality or sustainability.” Available in glass, wood veneer and an innovative acrylic resin called Fenix, the highly durable solution combines the best of Italian design, ergonomics and sustainability. The collection was created by DOM Interiors founder Brian Jevremov as a way to introduce livable luxury to the States. “Fenix is an Italian-based material that’s widely used for interior applications because of its durability,” notes Stewart. For this Excelsior residence, it was a no-brainer to install Ascent throughout the most highly used areas given its water-repellent, mold-resistant and enhanced antibacterial properties. “It’s an amazing product,” Stewart continues. “Think about what you need for cooking, cleanliness, kids and pets. This home was designed for the active family.” The collection also features a highly engineered LED channel integrated into every wall unit for superior work top visibility. Ascent can be customized, but it rarely needs to be given the breadth and depth of available options. The DOM Interiors team happily collaborates with builders, architects and designers to make a dream combination come together. “Exploring materials is part of the fun,” says Stewart. For this home, the designer and developer chose locally sourced stone to complete the look and add a little Minnesota flavor. This personalized pairing echoes the high contrast and tasteful mix of materials seen in the house’s architecture, with Ascent’s intense color depth beautifully offsetting the natural countertops. Together, the solution nails that sleek yet inviting feel the team set out to achieve.
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ORGANIC MODERN
INTERIORS BY MARTIN PATRICK 3
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REMOVE THE BOUNDARY BETWEEN INDOORS AND OUT Introducing the new MultiGlide™ door as part of the Andersen® Architectural Collection. With an array of styles and configurations for both contemporary and traditional spaces, the MultiGlide door offers ultimate design freedom that can transform any space into something extraordinary.
“Andersen” and all other marks where denoted are trademarks of Andersen Corporation. ©2018 Andersen Corporation. All rights reserved.
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Artful Living
AT HOME ON THE
SAVANNA
LIVING CLOSE TO THE LAND IN STILLWATER’S NEWEST COMMUNITY.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
B Y K AT I E D O H M A N
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COMMUNITY
A twisting road winds through hundreds of acres of rolling hills
that give way to small ponds. Trumpeter swans, sandhill cranes, white-tailed deer, turkeys and hawks appear, almost as if on cue. Oaks with their gnarled branches and wise trunks stand stately and omniscient, bearing witness to the development of this land across recorded history. It’s a true slice of Midwestern Americana, the kind of imagery that comes to mind when you read Laura Ingalls Wilder. Just a few miles outside picturesque Stillwater in pastoral Grant Township, something is afoot. This idyllic rural scene is the site of a unique, architecturally driven community. Carefully developed by David Washburn, Bob Appert and Dan Larson, it is appropriately named White Oaks Savanna. These savannas, the fleeting transition between forest and prairie, are some of the most quickly disappearing ecosystems on the planet, and this community aims to protect and preserve them — all while inviting people to live in kinship with the land, as it was meant to be. Nearly 30 five- to seven-acre custom luxury properties are available for those looking to blend country living with easy access to not only the Twin Cities but also the charming river towns along Minnesota’s border. Acclaimed firms Peterssen/Keller Architecture and Rehkamp Larson Architects will design the blueprints to work in concert with clients’ lifestyles and the landscape, and Hagstrom Builder, Elevation Homes and Redstone Architectural Builders will bring those plans to life.
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Bales of hay indicate where each residence will take shape, but you can only really spot them if you look closely, as each space has been designed so as not to be too obtrusive, in true Midwestern ethos. And yet, each home will still enjoy sweeping views and wide open spaces among the beneficent land that has quite literally fed and nurtured this community for centuries. On the northeast edge of the property, a quaint barn stands its ground and awaits a light renovation, the shakes on its roof holding steady after years of sun, rain, snow, ice and melt. And yet, as back-to-the-land as the savanna feels, the buzz of nearby Stillwater is palpable. In a happenstance that seems like the universe truly conspiring for good, the riverside town is enjoying its own renaissance. New luxe boutique hotels, charming brick-and-mortar shops, and the relocating and reopening of the bridge all mean that a night out or a weekend away is just a few miles down the road. To the west, meanwhile, stand some of the giants of Minnesota’s economic engine: 3M and other businesses that helped shape Minneapolis and St. Paul. But then back to the land it is, with those oaks standing tall, a reminder of Grant’s past and a testament to fortitude and stewardship over sacred land. Beautifully designed by nature and impeccably protected by experts, White Oaks Savanna is creating a unique legacy by preserving that rare slice of land between forest and prairie, country and city, history and future.
White Oaks Savanna is creating a unique legacy by preserving that rare slice of land between forest and prairie, country and city, history and future.
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A DVE N T U R E
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FARE
Playing with
CHEF JON WIPFLI WANTS YOU TO GET OUTSIDE AND GRILL SOME OYSTERS THIS WINTER. BY JULIA HEFFELFINGER
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ELIESA JOHNSON
FIRE
It’s a crisp 10 degrees out, and Jon Wipfli is stoking a wood fire while donning
his favorite canvas overalls and a T-shirt. “You want to keep your body warm,” he says, “but it gets hot when you’re working over the flames!” The Minneapolis chef (known for his Minnesota Spoon brand) braves a cold day like this for only one kind of feast: an oyster roast. This low-country tradition involves shoveling mollusks onto a hot grill, covering them with a wet burlap sack and cooking them until they plump up and pop open from the steam. Oysters? In winter? In Minnesota? The concept may seem like a hard sell, but Wipfli believes there’s something fittingly Northern about this Southern way of cooking. “To me, an oyster roast is about reveling in the challenges of winter, not hiding from them,” he explains. “You’re huddled around the fire, drinking a beer, and everyone gets involved with the shucking. We thrive on that sense of community in the colder months.” In the summer, an iced oyster on the half shell is refreshing. But when an oyster is gently smoked and basted in butter, it becomes downright decadent. “This is my kind of comfort food,” Wipfli declares. “When it’s cold all around you, the heat of the oysters is so satisfying. It warms you to the core.” Plus, oysters are at their best come wintertime; the pearly white mollusks become incredibly fatty and succulent in icy waters. And with fantastic local resources like the Fish Guys (Wipfli’s go-to), sourcing fresh oysters from both coasts is easy. When he opened Animales Barbecue Co. — a 33-foot trailer-meets-smokehouse at Northeast Minneapolis’s Able Seedhouse + Brewery — last August, Wipfli knew that oysters would be a big part of the experience. Alongside 16-hour smoked brisket, locally sourced ribs and Lowry Hill Meats sausage, he cranks out roasted oysters for the masses in the colder months. To help in this endeavor, he commissioned a custom 150-pound steel oyster roaster with a shiny flat top and room for burning logs below. Foodies in the know can snag tickets for the all-you-can-eat feasts, where Wipfli and his team shovel roasted oysters onto the long, paper-covered outdoor tables at Able (yes, even when the ground is covered in snow). It’s an immersive experience: Guests get a quick shucking lesson before digging into the heaps of steaming mollusks and tossing their discarded shells into buckets. The flurry of activity and radiating heat keep everyone warm. On a normal day, the Animales crew will cruise through 300-plus oysters in a couple hours. With more than 4,000 roasted oysters under his belt, Wipfli believes this is something that you can — and should — be doing at home (albeit, at a slightly more relaxed pace). “The classic Southern style is a fun down-and-dirty way to do it,” he says, “but when I’m entertaining friends, I opt for the slower pace of a buttered oyster roast.” To pull this off in your own backyard, Wipfli recommends some essentials: a hot grill, a bag of oysters, your thickest winter coat and a few helpful friends. A shoveled path leads through the snow to the grill. With a clean towel at the ready and an oyster knife peeking out from the front pocket of his bibs, Wipfli carefully arranges oysters on the piping hot grate. Once the shells pop, it’s all hands on deck for the shucking. People balance their beers while cradling the hot oysters in towels, taking care not to spill any of the precious juices. After the top shells come off, the oysters return to the grill for a crowning dollop of butter studded with bacon or spicy Thai chilies. The cold air fills with smoke, and everyone creeps in a little closer, eagerly waiting. It’s a friendly melee of shuck, butter, slurp, repeat. It’s low country meets North country. And for Wipfli, it’s the ultimate way to pass a cold winter afternoon. “Minnesotans spend the summer outside around the grill,” he says. “Why don’t we do the same in January?”
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Compass XFXAXRXEX Adventure
H ow to H ost a Wi n t e r O yst er Roast Don’t be intimidated at the idea of hosting a winter oyster roast. If you have your tools at the ready and a friend to help with the shucking, you can easily pull this off for a crowd. Start by grilling one or two oysters at a time until you hit your stride, then move up to larger batches.
Equipment A good pair of kitchen tongs Several kitchen towels for holding the hot oysters • Several oyster knives (unless you plan to do all the shucking yourself ) • Your warmest winter gear • •
Smoke A gas, wood or charcoal grill will do. Wipfli highly recommends scattering some soaked wood chips over the hot coals or placing a small smoker box under the grate of your gas grill. The aromatic smoke will go a long way to flavor the oysters. Whichever route you choose, make sure your grill is piping hot.
Oysters When selecting oysters, defer to your fishmonger. You’re looking for medium-sized, reasonably priced ones from cold waters. No need to splurge; the unique nuances of a high-priced oyster will be overpowered by the smoke and flavored butter. East Coast oysters like Wellfleet and Blue Point are great options. For serving size, Wipfli suggests starting with six mollusks per person. If you’re inviting over some serious oyster enthusiasts, up that to eight to 10. Lastly, be sure to grill your oysters bowl side down. That way when the top shell pops open from the heat, the briny, flavorful oyster liquor will stay inside the shell.
Butter Add some variety by experimenting with different flavored butters. If you’re pinched for time, use a good salted butter and serve with your favorite hot sauce. Bring butter to room temperature for easy scooping.
Libations Pair your oysters with a creamy, malty stout like Able BLK WLF. This dry, dark beer balances out the fatty saltiness of the oysters. Prefer some vino? Local libation connoisseur Erik Eastman recommends pouring the refreshing, refined Via Emilia Cantina di Carpi Sparkling White Lambrusco. He describes it as “light, but not a shrinking violet, with plenty of things to say on the palate without dominating the conversation.”
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Butt ered O yst er Roast Makes 6 to 8 servings 4 dozen
medium-sized oysters, rinsed and scrubbed compound butter
1. Set up grill for indirect cooking. If using a gas grill, preheat half of burners to high and leave others off. If using wood chips, place soaked chips in smoker box. Using tongs or sturdy grilling gloves, carefully lift grate on hot side of grill and place box on top of burners. Replace grate. If using a charcoal grill, heat coals until glowing. Scatter soaked wood chips over coals. Carefully push coals to one side then set grate on grill. 2. When grill is very hot, cook oysters in small batches, arranging bowl side down on hot side of grill. Cook uncovered 3 to 5 minutes, until flat top shell pops open. Using tongs, transfer to a platter, taking care not to spill any oyster liquor. Working one by one and cradling with a towel, quickly remove top shells and loosen oysters from bottom shells. Top each oyster with ½ tsp. compound butter and return to cool side of grill. Cook uncovered 2 minutes, until butter is just melted. Transfer to a platter and let cool slightly before serving. Repeat with remaining oysters.
Baco n Butt er Makes 2 cups
Compound butter acts as an instant flavor enhancer when melted atop roasted oysters. The salty bacon here is a nod to Oysters Casino and adds the perfect touch of smoke. This recipe makes more compound butter than you’ll need, so save the leftovers for smearing on toast, glossing over pasta or stirring into brothy mussels. Can be made and refrigerated up to a week in advance. 4 strips
apple wood–smoked bacon (about 4 ounces), finely chopped
1
medium shallot, minced
2
minced garlic cloves
1 Tbsp.
fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp.
black pepper
½ cup
packed flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped
1 pound
unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 Tbsp.
finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp.
fresh lemon juice
1. In a medium nonstick skillet over moderate heat, cook bacon 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until crisp. Drain excess fat. Add shallot, garlic, thyme and pepper, and cook 1 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, until shallot and garlic are translucent. Remove pan from heat and let cool completely. Fold in parsley. 2. In a medium bowl, combine bacon mixture, butter, lemon zest and lemon juice until evenly incorporated. Scrape into a storage container, cover and refrigerate until ready to use. For easy portioning, bring to room temperature.
Spicy G inger Butt e r Makes 2 cups
The peppery ginger and the clean heat of Thai chilies are unexpected complements to plump, smoky oysters. Any leftover butter is precious; use it to sauté shrimp or baste a thick ribeye steak. Can be made and refrigerated up to a week in advance. 4
Thai chilies or 1 Fresno pepper, stemmed and minced
1
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1
minced garlic clove
2 tsp.
finely grated lime zest
2 Tbsp.
fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp.
soy sauce
1 pound
unsalted butter, at room temperature
1. In a medium bowl, combine chilies, ginger, garlic, lime zest, lime juice and soy sauce. Let sit 1 hour. Add butter and mix until evenly incorporated. Scrape into a storage container, cover and refrigerate until ready to use. For easy portioning, bring to room temperature.
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Adventure Compass GET XA XW XX AX Y
Taking Aim A CONSUMMATE OUTDOORSWOMAN’S PICKS AMONG AMERICA’S PREMIER SPORTING LODGES. BY LAURA SCHARA P H OTO G R A P H Y BY 2 N D T R U T H
Life is only fully lived when we get out to explore. Minnesota
ON LOCATION AT THE LODGE SOCIAL CLUB | HAIR AND MAKEUP BY JULIE PHAXAY
offers endless outdoor experiences; however, there are many wild adventures to be had in other beautiful places across the country. If you prefer indulgence to roughing it, five-star hunting, fishing, horseback riding and culinary experiences await you at these luxurious sporting lodges.
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G E TAWAY
R AWA H R A N C H Colorado In the language of the Ute people, “rawah” means “abundance,” and that is exactly what this historic dude ranch has to offer. Fishing and fitness are two activities that stand out at this property nestled into northern Colorado’s wilderness. The legendary fly-fishing takes place along a private stretch of the Big Laramie River. And more than 15 beautiful hiking trails will satisfy fitness fanatics. Of course, no ranch experience is complete without a trail ride or two. Guests can saddle up and ride through thousands of acres of undisturbed peaks and valleys of high country. Nine cozy cabins ensure you’ll have all the comforts of home, including gourmet cuisine that’s made from scratch daily, honoring the cowboy way of life. rawahranch.com
PAU L N E L S O N FA R M South Dakota
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TYLER HILL AND GINA SAMAROTTO
Upland bird hunting more your style? There is opulence to be experienced on the pheasant-filled plains of South Dakota. Paul Nelson Farm is a top-of-the-line lodge that sits on 5,000-plus acres of prime hunting land just east of the Missouri River. The property has just 35 guest rooms, meaning the fields never feel overcrowded. If you don’t feel like lugging your gear along, not to worry; complimentary shotguns and ammo are provided. And if you want to keep shooting after the hunt, unlimited sporting clays await you. New to the farm is a long-range rifle shooting facility. Targets are set up to 2,000 yards — if you can hit that, your marksmanship bragging rights will go through the roof. paulnelsonfarm.com
BIG CEDAR LODGE Missouri
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BIG CEDAR LODGE AND TRIPLE CREEK RANCH
If there’s one family that knows how to build a wilderness experience, it’s the Morris clan, who owns Bass Pro Shops. First founded in the 1920s, Big Cedar Lodge is rich in history. The Morris family spared no expense restoring this 4,600-acre property hidden in the Ozarks. From private log cabins to ultra glamping, this resort has it all. Available activities touch nearly every aspect of the outdoors, including guided fishing trips, bow fishing, boat rentals, waterski school, five PGA golf courses, horseback riding and the Bass Pro Shops Shooting Academy. There’s definitely something for everyone in your family at Big Cedar Lodge. bigcedar.com
TRIPLE CREEK RANCH Montana Old West living appeals to even the most contemporary city slickers. There’s just something about riding horses out on the frontier that puts us in touch with our ancestral roots. At Triple Creek Ranch, guests can partake in cattle drives, whitewater rafting, guided fly-fishing, ATV adventures, dogsledding, snowmobiling, archery lessons, cooking classes and more. Your stay includes all-inclusive gourmet meals, and the menu changes nightly. The atmosphere here is first-class, yet so is the comfort level. The dress code is “ranch casual,” meaning boots, jeans, shorts, sandals or whatever feels best. Just don’t forget to pack your cowboy hat and bring along your best yee-haw. triplecreekranch.com Laura Schara is a lifelong outdoor enthusiast and cohost of the television series Minnesota Bound. You can find her blog at wildlyliving.com.
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A GOLD E AMO AMUSE SOCIETY CITIZENS OF HUMANITY CURRENT/ELLIOTT ELIZABETH AND JAMES EQUIPMENT HABITUAL JBRAND JOHN & JENN KORAL ACTIVEWEAR LAMADE LEVI’S LINE MCGUIRE MONROW MOUSSY NATION LTD SUNDRY VINCE
3909 W 50TH ST. EDINA, MN 55424 (952) 746-8675 WWW.BLUEBIRDBOUTIQUE.COM BLUEBIRDEDINA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY T.THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY
Adventure Compass
E XQ XX UX UX S
The Way of the
WI LD HOW A MINNESOTA NONPROFIT HELPED IN THE NATION’S LARGEST HORSE RESCUE MISSION. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
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Seven blind mustangs. That’s how the Hastings-based nonprofit This Old Horse
first became involved in the country’s largest horse rescue mission. But once founder Nancy Turner learned of the plight of more than 900 mustangs in South Dakota, she couldn’t help but stay involved throughout the 18-month process. It began in the fall of 2016, when state officials contacted Elaine Nash, founder of Colorado nonprofit Fleet of Angels, to help rehome 270 horses. Found starving and neglected, they had been seized from a failed sanctuary that had originally set out to preserve some of America’s original mustang herds. The outlook was grim, with winter fast approaching and no easy answers in sight. Nash realized that the horses’ likely end would come at the hands of kill buyers, so she eventually took custody of all 907 at-risk mustangs, who became known as the Hallelujah Horses. Tapping her resources from across the country, she went on to lead a Herculean effort requiring hundreds of volunteers and hundreds of thousands of dollars — not to mention blood, sweat and tears. “People came together for this like nothing I’ve ever seen,” she explains. “It was absolutely incredible how people helped fund this and what people did on the ground in South Dakota in the most horrific conditions and circumstances. It was also very, very tough working with the sanctuary owner, who was battling to keep the horses.” Rehoming these mustangs was no easy feat. Because of their wild nature, they had developed tight-knit bonds, and many had unique concerns, such as blindness or permanent lameness. On top of that, corralling, loading and hauling the horses were unimaginably challenging tasks. After making the noble decision not to tear apart bonded pairs or groups, Nash began shamelessly, selflessly reaching out to individuals and organizations to ask for help. That’s how she first got in touch with Turner, who was moved by the mission and agreed to take in those seven blind mustangs. Never mind that This Old Horse had no experience with mustangs. The nonprofit’s staff and volunteers were determined to make it work and quickly became knowledgeable in their care and management. The organization went on to adopt 19 more Hallelujah Horses. A year after Nash first embarked on this mission, she had found remarkable success, finding homes for 887 horses across the United States and into Canada. But the 20 that remained, dubbed the Hallelujah Stallions, had particularly special needs. Most of them were elderly stallions who were too old to be castrated, and several were blind or going blind. Finding a suitable sanctuary for them seemed like an impossibly tall order, one that kept both Nash and Turner awake at night for many months. But then, the unimaginable happened. Turner found them a proper foster home, at Josh and Ricka Kohnstamm’s 66-acre Firefly Farms in Goodhue. They agreed to transform a portion of their hobby farm into the Wells Creek Wild Mustang Horse Sanctuary. The Hallelujah Stallions took up residence there last May, and that’s where they will live out the rest of their days, under the care and custody of This Old Horse. “It was exactly one year and one day from the time the court turned the horses over to us in January 2017 until we had all of them adopted,” explains Nash, who received the ASPCA’s first-ever Equine Welfare Award for her efforts. “Because one day after the year mark, Nancy made a full commitment to take the last 20 horses. No one in this country besides Nancy was willing to take on those horses. She’s a hero.”
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INTEGRITY
T R A N S PA R E N C Y
EMPOWERMENT
K R O I S S D E V E L O P M E N T. C O M 350 Hwy 7, Suite 218, Excelsior, MN 55331
612-590-8099
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BEST-IN-CLASS SERVICE
HONESTY
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FRESH A DEEP DIVE INTO THE GRAPHIC WORLD OF TATTOOS. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE P H OTO G R A P H Y BY R A L F M I TS C H
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Once a year, stunned vacationers at the upscale Arizona Biltmore find their posh summer retreat invaded by hordes of scantily clad, tattoo-laden guests. Hundreds of artists and enthusiasts descend upon the Phoenix hotel for the Hell City Tattoo Festival, a sort of mecca for lovers of body modification. These deeply devoted fans, or “Hellions,” as they call themselves, can get fresh ink, watch their favorite artists in action and even show off their own tats to win prizes. This year, a virgin-skinned writer from Minnesota joined the throng. I trotted through the doors of Hell City wearing cheerful nautical stripes and embroidered flamingo espadrilles — an outfit that had seemed like a better idea back in the confines of my hotel room. My fellow convention-goers, adorned in head-to-toe tattoos, gauge earrings and the like, were braving the sweltering summer heat to smoke cigarettes and weed outside the building, creating a pseudo gauntlet that I awkwardly ducked through. I tried to casually nod as if I, too, were in the know and that my stripes were hiding some badass barbed-wire tattoo. In return, all I got were a few stony glares and a puff of sweet-smelling smoke blown in my face. Why was I even at this rowdy convention?
Several artists show me tattoos of burning crosses they got as ”a fuck you to religion.” To dig into this billion-dollar industry. Hell City in particular is legendary for its raucous traditions, including freak shows and live burlesque. During the day, busty women are ogled on stage as they compete for the coveted honor of being named the No. 1 hottie in the Hell City Hotties pageant. Come night, pool parties offer the perfect opportunity to display new ink in skimpy bikinis. This crowd’s passion is permanently modifying their bodies and having a damn good time doing it. Within minutes of my arrival, I find myself chatting with a California artist appropriately named Big Greg, who greets me with the word “beefcake” tattooed in Gothic lettering on his knuckles. “It’s funny partly because I’m a fat guy and partly because a beefcake is what you call a male stripper,” he tells me. We laugh together, although frankly, I’m only about 20 percent clear on the joke.
Little do I know, beefcake is just the beginning. At least Big Greg’s tattoo is intentional; I meet dozens of Hellions who have alcohol-induced ink and no memory of receiving it. Shockingly questionable tats (and explanations) are a dime a dozen. Ohio artist Nathan Varney explains very seriously that his tattoo of a waffle is an homage to his grandmother, who used to make him — you guessed it — waffles. Several artists show me tattoos of burning crosses they got as “a fuck you to religion.” And yet I also meet many Hellions who have deeply personal, meaningful reasons for each piece of artwork on their bodies. One attendee’s grandfather received an arm sleeve to commemorate his World War II service; he has come to Hell City to put that same tattoo on his arm. Some attendees want the handwriting of a deceased loved one placed
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on their bodies as a sort of physical memorial. Stories of redemption and hope are everywhere. One of the most popular Hellions is an armless man receiving a full-color octopus tattoo over his chest and back, with an arm being inked onto the stub of his own arm. “When I was 10, I touched a power line, and it blew out a breaker at 62,000 volts,” he explains. “I lost my arm and most of my toes, and my feet are scarred. My tattoos represent ways that my family and I are survivors. Today, we’re finishing this octopus, because when you cut off an octopus’s arm, it grows back.” These days, tattoos are considered socially acceptable, if not mainstream; nearly 29 percent of Americans had tattoos in 2016. But that saturation wasn’t always the case. Until the late eighties and early nineties, tattoos were often an unspoken sign of a long-term prison sentence. Still today they have that same association, and for good reason: Tattoos remain an incarceration rite of passage. Although prison rules have clamped down on illegal inking, a 2017 VICE report revealed the creative ways in which prisoners give themselves tattoos: “We’d scrape bits off the shoes with a blade — nothing too visible to avoid getting caught,” explained one convict. “We burned the pieces under some glass, then dissolved it in piss, which turned it into a type of ink. We would then dip a sewing needle, with thread we got from towels, into our ink. The tattoos were drawn by tearing the skin. After a while, your skin couldn’t take it anymore. But I kept doing it because everybody else was.” Some tattoos are more common than others. In a sample of 100,000 prisoners, The Economist found 117 inmates with a variation of the phrase “Mother Tried,” 31 with “Fuck the Police,” and seven with “Your Name” on their penises. The most frequent crime-related tattoos have their own lexicon. A watch with no hands indicates a life sentence, signifying time standing still. An outline of a teardrop implies that a murder is coming, and if the murder is successful, the teardrop is filled in. In Russia, where the government tattooed prisoners until 1863 and 95 percent of
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high-security convicts are tattooed today, an incredibly complex code language operates. Playing cards, for instance, have specific meanings, with spades representing a thief, diamonds indicating an informant and hearts
signaling someone seeking romance. Some inmates have churches on their backs or chests, with cupolas marking the number of convictions and bells signifying a conviction without parole. Pedophiles reportedly receive mermaids on their stomachs, and murders often get skull tattoos. I ask Hellion Jordan Bender if he’s ever been stereotyped as a con thanks to his face and neck tattoos. He nods: “You get all sorts of weird reactions. Some people get scared at the
sight of me. I remodel homes, and my company has to call clients beforehand to warn them that I’m fully tattooed and tell them I’m not actually a felon.” “All this horseshit stuff, like script on people’s foreheads — I don’t care who does it, you look like you just got out of prison,” adds celebrity tattoo artist Josh Payne. That transgressive quality, however, seems to be part of the allure for a rising number of millennials eagerly sporting face tattoos. Younger generations see them as a commitment to achieving success in a creative field. When The New York Times interviewed 30-year-old creative director Travis Hardy, he noted that his face tattoo was a permanent mark of his desire to avoid corporate culture: “There’s no turning back. There’s no normal job or whatever. I’m going to continue to creative direct or write treatments for music videos or stage design. I’m not going to turn around. This served as a stamp: I believe in myself.” At Hell City, face tats are considered a universally bad idea, but they’re by no means the worst tattoos these people have ever seen. Big Greg and his partner, [Big] Jeff, laugh uproariously at their favorite horrible tattoo, even showing me photos on their phones. It’s a man’s torso with a life-size tattoo of his internal organs and intestines, with feces making its way to the colon. A banner exclaiming “This, Too, Shall Pass” waves proudly above it. Some of the bad tattoos are lighthearted, while others are just disturbing. One artist tells me about a man who came into his shop requesting tattoos of his stillborn baby’s footprints crawling over his torso. Other artists have had to correct mistakes.
Apple Store in here,” Miley Cyrus told The New York Times when she showed up for some new tats (her mom’s signature on her arm and an impromptu ankle tattoo displaying “slang for part of the female genitalia”). Acclaim often comes from tattooing movie stars and rock stars, as was the case for Bang Bang owner Keith McCurdy. He achieved international fame after tattooing Rihanna and
today is sought out by well-to-do clients from around the world. His shop tattoos a mile-long list of the rich and famous, including Orlando Bloom, Nicolas Cage, Katy Perry, and Kylie and Kendall Jenner. Justin Bieber, meanwhile, will fly McCurdy across the globe when he wants a tattoo; the artist traveled to Panama on a moment’s notice for a reported $10,000 to give the pop star some fresh ink. For his part, McCurdy owns Amazon stock, plans to launch a Netflix show about Bang Bang and just purchased an entirely new set of teeth. Technology has transformed the industry, with tools and materials at a premium. In 2018, VICE followed rapper 2 Chainz’s quest to find the most expensive tattoo in the world. He settled on Hart & Huntington Tattoo Co. in Las Vegas, owned by freestyle motorcyclist Carey Hart who’s equally well known for being singer Pink’s husband and being the first motorcyclist to ever do a backflip. Although the tattoo was small, the ink alone cost a reported $9,000 per bottle — and only 10 bottles existed. It was made from exhaust carbon ash and smoldering tire remains collected from tracks left by Hart’s own motorcycle. But for those who don’t require the royal treatment, tattoos remain a relatively accessible form of art. By the end of the Hell City convention, I find myself chatting and laughing with everyone from Vietnamese gang members to middle-class parents, each with an interesting story to tell. I escape without too many questions as to why I don’t have tattoos myself — that is, until the last day. I’m cornered by two of my new artist friends, Sean and Nathan, who are dead set on making a sacrifice to the tattoo gods (i.e. tattooing virgin skin). I stutter and stammer. To tell the truth? I finally understand the appeal of an instantaneous yet permanent declaration of yourself on your own skin. I escape only by promising that I’ll be back to get inked.
Younger generations see face tattoos as a commitment to achieving success in a creative field.
One tells me of a client who came in to have his face tattoo fixed; he had requested “Chief” but had gotten “Cheif.” Some Hellions are too afraid to tell me about their tattoos for fear their relatives might read Artful Living. This application and removal may sound simple, but in truth, it can be outrageously expensive. These days, acclaimed tattoo artists charge between $100 and $500 an hour, and that’s once you can get off their waitlist. Celebrity artist Scott Campbell, whose clientele includes Penelope Cruz, Josh Hartnett, Marc Jacobs, Courtney Love and Kanye West, charges $2,000 an hour. At New York City’s Bang Bang tattoo shop, junior artists complete black and gray arm sleeves for prices nearing $20,000. The shop recently underwent a $1-million renovation and now boasts a koi pond, fridges filled with Fiji water, and video screens displaying content from the shop’s full-time videographer. “It’s like the
Ralf Mitsch’s book Why I Love Tattoos features 50+ portraits of people who share the inspiration behind their ink.
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Human Nature
THE BURNS ARCHIVE IS A MOST CURIOUS COLLECTION. BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H
PHOTOGRAPHY © STANLEY B. BURNS, MD/THE BURNS ARCHIVE
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Tucked inside a handsome brownstone in the Murray Hill neighborhood of New York City is a photo
collection like no other. It’s a private assemblage of some one million historical images that show the forgotten, unseen and disquieting aspects of life: medical oddities, crime scenes and post-mortem images. They are hard to look at yet impossible to ignore. “The photographs I find most impactful are those that show the humanity and inhumanity of humankind,” explains Stanley B. Burns, MD. “We are forced to recognize the extremes of behavior, both individually and collectively.” The ophthalmologist began collecting the vintage images in the seventies, and today, his home is a living museum, with walls filled with framed photos, drawers full of daguerreotypes and boxes brimming with printed materials. The archive is known in particular for its documentation of early medical history from the 1830s to the 1950s. There are images of rare anatomical conditions, photos of students performing dissections, even an x-ray of a serial killer’s brain.
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The collection also delves into the often unseen aspects of human behavior, from war to crime and punishment. “The archive preserves the only surviving image of water torture in America: Sing Sing prison in 1860,” Burns says. “Images that show actions that have been spoken of but rarely seen are enlightening. Once seen, the visual impact stays forever.” Burns has devoted his life to the collection and has written nearly 50 books that delve into specific subject matters. Stiffs, Skulls & Skeletons highlights medical photography and symbolism, while the much-heralded Sleeping Beauty showcases memorial photography. The archive has been the subject of countless articles and exhibitions. Burns has also served as an advisor for such television series as Cinemax’s The Knick and PBS’s Mercy Street. “I have been interested in history since childhood, collecting documents and books,” he notes. “I wanted to preserve the past and to educate. In 1975, I recognized the availability of unique original historic photographs and aggressively sought out areas of historic interest to me: medicine, crime, ethnology, war, post-mortem/memorial, African American, Judaica and Holocaust.” Thousands of historians, researchers, writers and filmmakers have used images from the archive, and it is recognized as one of the most important private historical photography collections in the country. Visitors can see the archive up close by booking a private tour. Burns’ daughter, Elizabeth, serves as tour guide into this intriguing home, which feels like a small museum. Ring the buzzer, and you
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are ushered into the garden-level waiting room. She explains how the collection came to be then guides you up a staircase filled with even more photos. Haunting portraits, scenes of war — your eyes try to take it all in. Once on the second floor, you have entered the heart of the archive. Saffron-colored walls hold hundreds of the most prized images. Desks in this working atelier are piled with books, photo albums and ephemera. Drawers are filled with glass negatives. Closets are jam-packed with archival boxes. Even the bathroom has visual treasures on the walls, along with files stacked on the floor. You feel like a privileged guest inside a private world. “There are many challenges to maintaining such an extensive collection, including but not limited to storage, preservation and cataloging,” explains Elizabeth. Standing in the middle of it all, you are struck by the enormity of that task. The sheer volume and intensity of the collection is assembled all around you. The outside world has slipped away, and you have entered another realm entirely. And that’s why the Burns family works so hard to maintain this most curious collection that provides an unforgettable glimpse into the human psyche and its many complexities. “The photos in the Burns Archive increase our understanding of humanity, history and the world,” Elizabeth muses. “They are visual evidence of lives past and how we got to where we are today. Because in George Santayana’s words, ‘Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.’”
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Intel
HISTORY
Medical
Marvel
A WHO’S WHO OF FAMOUS FIGURES WHO’VE FLOCKED TO
MAYO CLINIC THROUGHOUT HISTORY.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY MAYO CLINIC
B Y T O R E Y VA N O O T
Aliases, entourages, Secret Service teams sweeping the halls: These
trappings of a Hollywood thriller might seem out of place at a hospital, much less one in rural Minnesota. But the Mayo Clinic isn’t your typical medical center. The sprawling Rochester campus has become the doctor destination for the world’s most famous figures over the past 130 years. The remote location does cause some grumbling. A young John F. Kennedy reportedly called it the “goddamnest hole I’ve ever seen.” And comedian Richard Pryor once cracked, “You know this shit is bad when you gotta go to the fucking North Pole to find out what’s wrong with you.”
And yet, Mayo’s sterling reputation has led heads of state, Hollywood elite and world-class athletes to flock to the so-called “miracle in the cornfield” for their most pressing health concerns. Although stories of some of the institution’s most famous visitors — from baseball great Lou Gehrig to President George H. W. Bush — are enshrined in the clinic’s Heritage Hall, patient privacy reigns supreme at Mayo. So it comes as no surprise that many hospital-gown-clad appearances by the rich and famous have remained shrouded in secrecy. Artful Living went digging in search of some of the most riveting — and consequential — tales of celebrity medical treatment over the years.
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JOHNNY AND JUNE CASH
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM SHEEHAN
n August 1981, tens of thousands of faithful fans packed into a stadium in Calgary, Canada, to see Johnny and June Carter Cash perform. But unlike on other tours, the first couple of country music wasn’t headlining the multi-day affair. Instead, they were there to support Johnny’s good (albeit unlikely) friend the Reverend Billy Graham as he delivered the gospel on one of his famed preaching crusades. But by the end of the two-day appearance, instead of riding high on God’s glory, Johnny was seriously ill. A private jet ferried the country crooner to Mayo, Graham’s hospital of choice. Doctors diagnosed him with an attack of bleeding ulcers, a potentially life-threatening condition. Luckily, he recovered quickly and was released after just four days. That emergency trip wasn’t the duo’s only trek to see Mayo doctors. Two years later, the Cashes returned so June could undergo surgery for “benign” abdomen issues. “Nothing serious,” Johnny insisted to local reporters at the time. June also turned to the Rochester clinic for help treating her anxiety. But the cause of her stress, it seems, couldn’t be cured by Mayo’s experts. “One of the doctors there who understood both of them pretty well told June, ‘Your biggest problem is being the wife of Johnny Cash — you’ll have to do something about that before we can do anything for you,’” longtime Cash bassist Marshall Grant told biographer Robert Hilburn. Mayo doctors were also unable to save Johnny later in life, because they didn’t have the chance. When his health deteriorated following June’s death in May 2003, Graham urged him to return to Rochester for care. Johnny declined. “[He] didn’t have the strength to even consider it,” wrote Hilburn. He died just months later at the age of 71.
CLARA BOW
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY MOVIESTORE COLLECTION LTD / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO AND STORMS MEDIA GROUP / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
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lara Bow couldn’t breathe. The famed flapper had spent the 1920s charming the masses, becoming one of the biggest stars of the (silent) silver screen. But beneath the gilded surface, Hollywood’s original It girl was increasingly ill and desperate for answers. And so, in December 1939, the 34-year-old boarded a train from Nevada to Minnesota in search of a cure. Claustrophobic and plagued with panic, she didn’t sleep for days. Bow’s doctors back home had tried and failed to pinpoint the cause of her complaints, a mélange of maladies that included headaches, insomnia and chronic back pain. Just years before, a series of nervous breakdowns had ended her career. Her husband, actor Rex Bell, hoped Mayo’s experts could crack the case. Bow stayed for three weeks of tests and observations, but answers eluded her doctors. One, Frederick Moersch, gave the “delightful and cooperative patient” a clean bill of health. He dismissed her symptoms as being of “little consequence” and the result of “a personality problem.” On New Year’s Day, the starlet checked out. But that clean bill of health was short-lived at best. Bow’s physical and mental health continued to deteriorate. In 1944, after her husband launched a congressional run, she tried to end her life. In a note, she declared that she preferred death to another turn in the spotlight. Several years later, she checked into a psychiatric hospital in Connecticut. The diagnosis? Schizophrenia. Bow didn’t believe it. She fled and lived as a recluse until she died of a heart attack in 1965 at age 60.
Celebrity Fan Club Although details of Mayo visits remain closely guarded, these high-profile patients have shared their health stories with the world in recent years.
TOM BROKAW A 2013 visit for back pain led doctors to diagnose the veteran newscaster with multiple myeloma, an incurable form of blood cancer. Statistics suggested he could have just five years to live. But his treatment, which included chemotherapy, spinal surgery and bone supplements, was successful in warding off the disease. Now in remission, Brokaw has become an outspoken supporter of Mayo’s work. He published a book based on the journals he kept during his treatment, took viewers behind the scenes of his care in a Dateline special and, most recently, appeared prominently in Ken Burns’ documentary about the institution.
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THE DALAI LAMA The Buddhist leader has made the long journey for care at Mayo many times. He’s been known to greet (and bless) fans and fellow patients and even delivered a talk about compassionate care during a 2016 visit to address a prostate issue. The holy leader doesn’t mind the trek to Rochester. In fact, he’s cited Mayo’s location as one of its draws. “Sometimes I feel like big city looks like big machine, their daily life without much thought of human feeling,” he said in an interview for Burns’ documentary. “I prefer people in rural area. Farmers, you see, more closer relation to nature. Farm area, rural area, more sense of community.”
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MUHAMMAD ALI
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uhammad Ali was hungry for a comeback — and some cash. And so in the summer of 1980, just months after he had officially retired, the boxing champ’s team decided to stage one final blockbuster match. He’d go up against heavyweight titleholder Larry Holmes, a skilled boxer in the prime of his career. It would be Ali’s first fight in two years. With reports swirling about Ali’s deteriorating health, including a potential kidney condition, Nevada boxing officials insisted he get a doctor’s sign off before returning to the ring. He agreed, so long as he could go to Mayo for his care. In late July, he checked into the Kahler Grand Hotel, the inn of choice for the hospital’s high-end guests, ahead of a series of exams that included a brain scan. Ali was so confident about his ability to fight that he held an impromptu press conference in the hotel lobby. But the results were mixed at best. One physician found the boxer in “excellent general medical health,” while a neurologist documented troubling symptoms. Ali admitted that basic tasks like touching his finger to his nose and hopping on one foot proved difficult. But even with those issues, Mayo doctors declared him fit to fight. “A staff of seven of the world’s best doctors gave me the green light today,” Ali boasted to reporters, “and that proved all the liars wrong.” And so on October 2, 1980, the Greatest of All Time stepped into the ring at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas, where promoters had built a 25,000-seat outdoor arena to meet ticket demand. Millions in bets were on the line. The match was dubbed the Last Hurrah, but for Ali, it might as well have been called A Giant’s Fall. Holmes clobbered the battered former heavyweight, landing punch after punch. After 10 brutal rounds, Ali’s trainer called an end to the fight. Sylvester Stallone likened the scene to “watching an autopsy on a man who is still alive.” Ali walked away with loads of cash, but the damage was done. When he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease in 1984, many blamed that fight for exacerbating his condition.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY FOCUS ON SPORT, LBJ PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO AND JEREMY SUTTON-HIBBERT / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
KEN BURNS The famed filmmaker’s first interaction with Mayo was a routine physical offered during a visit to speak on the campus in 2014. Burns was “blown away” by the quality of care, especially his doctors’ attention to detail. That introduction inspired his latest epic project, a nearly two-hour documentary about the hospital’s founding, rise and place in the world of modern medicine. Debuting last fall, The Mayo Clinic: Faith – Hope – Science quickly racked up rave reviews. Burns, who has tackled subjects ranging from baseball to the Civil War, wasn’t surprised it touched a nerve, noting that “it’s a uniquely American story.”
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY MARA VIVAT, HOMER SYKES ARCHIVE / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO AND PETER JORDAN / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
HELEN KELLER
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BILLY GRAHAM “America’s pastor” was known to sing the clinic’s praises throughout a lifetime of care. In addition to routine checkups, Graham turned to Mayo for help managing symptoms of Parkinson’s disease following his 1989 diagnosis. He was also admitted for fluid buildup in his brain in 2000 as well as sinus surgery in 2002. And the minister’s trips to Rochester resulted in more than just recoveries: His son Nelson married a Mayo nurse he met while visiting his father after a fall in the seventies.
KING HUSSEIN OF JORDAN The king’s relationship with Mayo began in the early 1990s, when he traveled to the clinic for successful renal cancer treatment. Then, in 1998, Mayo doctors diagnosed him with non-Hodgkin lymphoma. They were initially optimistic, but after two years, treatment failed. He flew back to Jordan, where he soon died. The royal family showed gratitude for his care with many generous gifts over the years; an ornate mother-of-pearl box containing a Bible sent as a thank you in the nineties remains on display at the clinic.
s her historic 1937 voyage to Japan came to an end, Helen Keller and her companion, Polly Thomson, traveled to Mayo for their annual checkups. For years, the famed author and activist, who lost her sight and hearing as a young child, had complained of stomach pains. A routine physical uncovered a potentially serious cause for her discomfort: a diseased gallbladder. Doctors recommended removing the organ. Keller agreed, writing to a friend that she thought it was best to “get rid of this obstacle to continued health and usefulness” while she was strong and well. Her one concern? Having to take time off work as an international advocate for the blind and deaf. “The only shadow,” she wrote, “is my distress at the thought that I shall not be at my post in October.” Still, Keller reveled in her good fortune to stay in the “sweet, quiet, tree-shaded town.” “Everyone at the clinic is so kind and the atmosphere is so cheerful and wholesome, it heals and strengthens us,” she wrote. She recounted being attended to by some of the clinic’s top doctors, including founding physician Charles Mayo himself. “His noble presence and modest simplicity reminded me of Einstein,” she noted. “Each day, I realize more fully what a worldwide beneficence the Mayos are spreading through the clinic.” And that kindness went both ways. Keller developed a reputation as a beloved patient as she forged close relationships with doctors and nurses. She was also known for being a gracious guest at local gatherings. At one memorable dinner party, she stood at the piano for a child’s impromptu performance so she could feel the vibrations of the music. And during World War II, Keller was known to make an appearance at farewell affairs for local residents departing for service, taking the time to wish each person good luck.
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JESSE JACKSON JR. In the midst of a federal investigation into campaign cash violations, the congressman went on a mysterious medical leave in June 2012. Weeks later, the Illinois Democrat surfaced in Rochester. Mayo officials confirmed he was undergoing “extensive inpatient evaluation for depression and gastrointestinal issues.” He returned to the clinic for another month-long stay that October, less than six months before he was indicted on federal charges that landed him in prison.
NANCY AND RONALD REAGAN While Mayo has been the provider of choice for many first families, the Reagans were some of the clinic’s most loyal patients from 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue. Nancy’s stepfather was good friends with a longtime Mayo surgeon, and the coupled turned to the clinic for care throughout their lives. In 1987, hospital staff even flew to Washington, D.C., to operate on Nancy following a breast cancer diagnosis. Two years later, surgeons at Saint Marys removed fluid from the former president’s brain. The couple returned for yearly checkups long after leaving the White House.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BETTMANN, DIGITAL FOCUS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO AND DENNIS BRACK / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
n November 30, 1960, Ernest Hemingway checked into Saint Marys Hospital (part of the Mayo campus) under a false name. At the time, the Nobel Prize–winning author was one of the world’s best-known writers, so discretion was of the utmost importance. But news of his month-long stay didn’t remain secret for long. Rochester residents spotted Hemingway around town, and soon local reporters were badgering the clinic for information. Eventually, Mayo released a brief statement saying he was being treated for high blood pressure. But news reports and biographies suggest the real reason for his visit: a bout of severe depression. Doctors prescribed electric shock therapy for his mood disorder and also treated him for diabetes and an enlarged liver. The writer charmed his caregivers and, at times, seemed to enjoy his stay. Like many famous patients at the time, he was known to socialize at doctors’ homes, where he would sing French and Italian songs alongside wife Mary. “[He] had happy times,” one physician told a biographer. “Although I saw him when he [was] ill, he still had a great, great sense of humor.” In January 1961, Ernest was released and sent home to Ketchum, Idaho. But he was far from cured, and the rounds of electric shock therapy were said to have lingering effects on his memory. Within three months, a severely depressed and suicidal Ernest returned to Rochester. Once again, doctors put him through electric shock therapy. Although he was under close supervision, the writer was allowed to leave hospital premises. Residents spotted him at a local watering hole and at the target range. By late June, doctors cleared him for release, and Mary reluctantly brought him home to Idaho. He died of a self-inflicted gunshot wound less than a week later.
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Charles R. Stinson Architecture + Design, 21
Kolbe Windows & Doors, 194
Talla Skogmo Interior Design, 124
Charlie & Co. Design, 188
Kroiss Development, 202
Terry John Zila Catering, 164
Citizens One, 6–7
Kurt Baum Architects, 53
The Hotel Landing, 124
City Homes, 86
Land Rover Minneapolis, inside front cover, 1
The Loupe by JB Hudson Jewelers, 10
Coldwell Banker Burnet, 138–159
Lecy Bros. Homes & Remodeling, 107
The Sitting Room, 91
Coldwell Banker Burnet Foundation, 160–161
Lucy Interior Design, 49
Top Shelf, 209
Crave American Kitchen & Sushi Bar, 137
Luther Luxury, 208
Twin Cities Closet Company, 60
Crutchfield Dermatology, 19
M. Elizabeth Bridal, 64
Twin City Fireplace & Stone, 167
David Heide Design Studio, 92
MA Peterson Designbuild, 136
U.S. Bank FlexPerks, 114
Denali Custom Homes, 59
Maison Kitchen + Bath, 94
Union Place, 172
Distinctive Drywall & Painting, 58
Martha O’Hara Interiors, 69
Vujovich Design Build, 97
Douglas Flanders & Associates, 58, 209
Martin Patrick 3, 11
Warners’ Stellian, 13, 48
Elevation Homes, 180
Max’s, 78
Westin Edina Galleria, 92
Eminent Interior Design, 102
Meyer Place at Ferndale, 29
White Oaks Savanna, 4–5
Erickson Outdoor Lighting, 177
Minnetonka Travel, 101
Wixon Jewelers, back cover
Erotas Custom Building, 71
Muska Lighting, 112
Wooddale Builders, 162
Executive Health Care, 49
Nancy Norling, DDS, 93
WorkOptional, 167
Fantasia Showrooms, 101
Nor-Son Custom Builders, 34
Artful Living
F R A N K B E T O
The Best of Friends I lost one of my best friends a year ago in a senseless accident. Scott Trautman was an extraordinary person, and his sudden death knocked me for a loop. In an instant, a constant in my life was gone. For months, I lived in a state of shock and experienced complicated emotions. Best friends are difficult to come by. There’s a hierarchy of relationships that starts with acquaintances, moves up to casual associations and, for just a select few, culminates in intimate friendships. This requires shared experiences that can only be built over time. Philosophers have historically valued our friendships as our most significant relationships. The creation of our friend set can be the most important work we do in our lifetime. Young people find it particularly easy to make friends. They have more time to socialize, have access to new networks and tend to fall hard for people. Creating friendships later in life is more challenging. In the wake of Scott’s passing, I intentionally started reuniting with old friends from my past. I have mostly found that the chemistry still exists and that the dynamics have deepened with our respective experiences in the interim. It’s been like looking backward to receive an emotional boost for going forward. The best kind of friend is selfless, demonstrating the value of friendship by expressing the desire to do what is best for the other, with mutual understanding and compassion. In the new year ahead, consider connecting with an old friend. Be brave, test the waters and go slow. Chances are the person that you reach out to will be glad to hear from you. Cheers,
Frank Roffers
Publisher + Editor-in-Chief
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