SUMMER 2018
DRIVE BEYOND THE ORDINARY
2018 RANGE ROVER
2018 RANGE ROVER SPORT
Starting at
Starting at
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$66,750
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Be inspired by the world renowned capabilities of a Land Rover vehicle. With innovative technology that’s designed to deliver confidence and control, renowned capability, and sophisticated technology that take your travel above and beyond. Contact us to schedule an appointment today.
Land Rover Minneapolis
8905 Wayzata Blvd, Golden Valley, MN 55426 763.222.2200 LandRoverMinneapolis.com
2018 RANGE ROVER VELAR
2018 RANGE ROVER EVOQUE
Starting at
Starting at
$49,900
*
*Prices based on MSRP. Excludes $995 destination/handling charge, tax, title, license, retailer fees, and optional equipment. Visit Jaguar Minneapolis for details.
$41,800
*
NATURAL BEAUTY. CLOSE-KNIT COMMUNITY. EXCELLENT SCHOOLS. Experience an idyllic lifestyle in Medina, surrounded by woodlands, wetlands & preserved open spaces just 20 minutes from Minneapolis & within the Orono School District. Enjoy the miles of trails & spend time outdoors at nearby Baker Park Reserve.
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612.470.8120
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1101-1199 HOMESTEAD TRAIL, ORONO, MN
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John Kraemer & Sons
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Swanson
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Wooddale
Sandy Mahoney 612.597.8900
Steve Schwieters 952.345.0543
L I V E E X C E P T I O N A L LY MINNEAPOLIS DESIGN CENTER Exquisite Furnishings. Superior Design Services. Kitchen & Bath. Visit us at imsdesigncenter.com
T H E M O O O I P ER CH LIGHT B R ANCH CHANDELIER F R O M T HE CO LLECT IO N O N 5
Experience more than 200 rare, original cars, boats and motorcycles along the shores of Lake Minnetonka.
Sunday, July 22 Excelsior, MN 9am – 4pm
Enjoy food, refreshments and live entertainment. For tickets and details visit: 10000LakesConcours.com
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at
Premier custom homebuilder Streeter & Associates crafts exquisite homes that demand only the finest selections, such as legendary refrigeration, cooking and dishwasher brands Sub-Zero, Wolf & Cove, known for the most innovative features at the highest quality. The Appliance Specialists at Warners’ Stellian combine our expertise in Sub-Zero, Wolf & Cove appliances with our knowledge of the project to deliver kitchens that perfectly complement the homeowner. EDINA
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F E A T U R E
T HE ADVENTURE IS S UE 110 Did Minnesota’s White Bear Lake inspire F. Scott Fitzgerald’s greatest novel?
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY PICTORIAL PRESS LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
G AT S B Y G O E S TO T H E L A K E
“ L O O K G O O D , F E E L G R E AT W I T H B E AU T I F U L S K I N ”
FAC E OF A T OP M I N N E SOTA DER M ATOLOGIST
Recognized by physicians and nurses as one of the nation’s best dermatologists, Charles E. Crutchfield III, MD’s countless honors include the Mayo Clinic’s Karis Humanitarian Award and being named to Minnesota Medicine‘s “100 Most Influential Health Care Leaders in Minnesota.” Dr. Crutchfield is a physician, teacher, author, patented inventor, entrepreneur, and philanthropist who mentors the next generation of physicians. Whether for medical or aesthetic concerns, if you or a loved one deserves the highest quality skin care from a leading dermatologist, Crutchfield Dermatology is the right call.
T AES
HETIC
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CRUTCHFIELD DER MATOLOGY “Experience counts. Quality matters.” Team Dermatologist for the Timberwolves, Twins, Vikings and Wild. Mayo Clinic Medical School Graduate Top Doctor Minneapolis St. Paul Magazine | Best Doctors for Women Minnesota Monthly Magazine
1185 Town Centre Drive, Suite 101, Eagan | 651.209.3600 | www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com
TM
C O N T E N T S
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Culture
Compass
Autos optimized for summer joy riding.
Awaken your inner explorer at Jamaica’s Royalton Negril.
36 E N T E R TA I N I N G
88 D E S T I N AT I O N
Wandering Kitchen serves up next-level catering.
Venture off to Shanghai and Hong Kong.
40
95 TO U R
32 N I C E R I D E
Desirable destinations the Artful Living way.
43 AG E N DA The season’s hottest happenings.
49 A R T
58
Inside an incredible Edward S. Curtis collection.
Style
58 T R E N D Disposable tableware has never looked so good.
62
Q +A Molly Dickson finds her way in the fashion world.
67 G U I D E What to buy now.
72 FA S H I O N Our favorite trends from this year’s swimwear collections.
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY 2ND TRUTH AND ROYALTON NEGRIL
FA R E Diane Yang shares a summer-ready recipe.
83 G E TAWAY
C O N T E N T S
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Home
Intel
INSIDER’S GUIDE Designer Kate Regan shares her favorite things.
E S S AY One writer falls in love all over again.
170 D E TA I L S
233 H I S TO R Y
Transform your walls by switching up switch plates.
Wisconsin Death Trip 45 years later.
166
Kroiss Development builds dream Kenwood duplexes.
176
T E C H N O LO G Y Must-have devices for the modern smart home.
180
BUILD Steven Streeter creates a work of art on Lake Minnetonka.
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N O R T H N OTA B L E S The region’s best and brightest.
In Every Issue
122 P R O P E R T Y G A L L E R Y 248 A DV E R T I S E R S I N D E X 250 C LO S I N G R E M A R K S 252 B AC K PAG E
191
Adventure 191
EQUUS A look back at the Windsor Charity Polo Cup.
198 R E C R E AT I O N Is Sturgis Motorcycle Rally starting to show its age?
206 E XC U R S I O N There’s no place quite like Utah’s Amangiri resort.
214 E X P E D I T I O N Searching for dinosaur fossils in North Dakota.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY LANDMARK, ANGELA PHAM/BFA.COM AND MARY JO HOFFMAN
173 D E V E LO P M E N T
226
DISTINCTIVE
© 2018 Nor-Son, Inc. All rights reserved. MN Lic.#BC001969 ND Lic.#25361
to fit your lifestyle.
2017 BUILDER OF THE YEAR Associated Builders & Contractors
NOR-SON.COM
CUSTOM HOMES ■ RENOVATIONS ■ ADDITIONS ■ LAKE HOMES
F R O M
T H E
E D I T O R S
Each season, we bring our readers the best the North has to offer. Here’s a preview of what we have in store for you this summer. H AY L E Y S A U N D E R S : Our summer issue is a coffee-table fixture for four months, so we always make sure it has a really interesting mix of content. There’s truly something for everyone in this issue, from fashionistas to globetrotters to history buffs. K AT E N E L S O N : It’s really a tour of our region, with a first-person retelling of digging for fossils in North Dakota (page 214), an in-depth analysis of South Dakota’s aging Sturgis Motorcycle Rally (page 198), a look back at the über-creepy Wisconsin Death Trip (page 233) and of course plenty of interesting stories from our own North Star State. H S : On the style front, we interviewed Molly Dickson, North Dakota native turned celebrity stylist (and also a college classmate of mine!) about her experiences in Hollywood and her favorite fashion trends (page 62). We also tapped the always chic Chris Plantan, a talented creative director and product designer we are lucky enough to call our good friend, for her take on the latest craze to hit at-home entertaining (page 58). Trust us — you’ll be surprised. And, as we do in every issue, we offer a curated collection of must-have wares with our handpicked Guide (page 67). K N : Speaking of fashion, I had the envy-inducing opportunity to meet polo player/Ralph Lauren model Nacho Figueras earlier this year during a charity polo match at Windsor, a private sporting community in Florida. I tried my best to play it cool but did end up asking for a selfie with him, a decision I absolutely don’t regret. I stopped fangirling just long enough to write a recap of the festive equestrian affair (page 191). H S : Our home section always provides plenty of inspiration, but one lakefront residence we feature in this issue is particularly remarkable. Steven Streeter, who is known for building some of the area’s most stunning properties, brought together a dream team of collaborators to help him create his own shorefront home on Lake Minnetonka (page 180). K N : And of course we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention our showstopping feature, “Gatsby Goes to the Lake,” in which writer Chris Clayton investigates if Minnesota’s own White Bear Lake inspired native son F. Scott Fitzgerald’s literary masterpiece (page 110). HAPPY READING. Looking for commentary from Publisher + Editor-in-Chief Frank Roffers? Turn to page 250.
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Kate Nelson
Hayley Saunders
Executive Editor
Managing Editor
DOM INTERIORS
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A RESOURCE FOR LIVING
•
M I N N E A P O L I S • 275 MARKET STREET #145, MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55405 • T E L . 6 1 2 - 3 4 1 - 4 5 8 8 • INFO@DOMINTERIORS.COM • WWW.DOMINTERIORS.COM NEW YORK
•
CHICAGO
•
TORONTO
O U R
T E A M
Publisher + Editor-in-Chief FRANK ROFFERS Managing Editor HAYLEY SAUNDERS Executive Editor KATE NELSON Creative Director MANDY EBERT Director of Sales EMMA CUTLER VELEZ Director of Marketing GENEVIEVE COSSETTE Assistant Art Director MARGARET COOPER Project Managers KATHLEEN GILDEA, MITCHELL LAMBERT Style + Product Coordinator JILL ROFFERS Contributors WR I T E R S : Chris Clayton, Katie Dohman, Amber Gibson, Marguerite Happe, Steve Hoffman, Wendy Lubovich, David Mahoney, Chris Plantan, Hillary Richard P H OTO GR APH E RS : 2nd Truth, Mary Jo Hoffman, Spacecrafting
Advertising Sales Contact Emma Cutler Velez at 612-803-1910 or ecutler@artfulliving.com.
Subscriber Services Contact Kathleen Gildea at 952-230-3133 or kgildea@artfulliving.com.
Artful Living 218 Washington Avenue North, Suite 220, Minneapolis, MN 55401
Artful Living is published by Roffers Group, LLC, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without permission. Roffers Group, LLC cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. Artful Living is committed to preserving the environment and demonstrates this by printing efficiently and sustainably. In consideration of environmental impact, this magazine is 100-percent recyclable.
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E L E VAT I O N H O M E S P R E S E N T S
INVITING COUNTRY HOME ESTATES IN MEDINA
TOUR OUR COUNTRY HOUSE MODEL Friday – Sunday, 12-6 PM • June 8-10, 15-17 & 22-24
CONTACT Bill Costello at Elevation Homes
ELEVATIONHOMES.COM BUILDER Elevation Homes
952.346.2496
Bill@ElevationHomes.com
DEERHILLPRESERVE.COM
ARCHITECT Imprint Architecture + Design
FURNISHINGS Room & Board
INTERIORS Merry Vogt Home
I N
P R I N T
On the Cover The art adorning our summer issue cover is the work of none other than Gray Malin, the inimitable American photographer best known for his incredible aerial shots. This image of a wooden boat cruising on Italy’s Lake Como is part of his renowned Á la Plage series. It simply oozes with summertime essence, perfectly capturing the season’s joy, freedom and endless sunshine. The talented 32-year-old has experienced a meteoric rise in recent years, having gone from selling prints for $65 a pop at Los Angeles flea markets to today having his photography plastered on everything from iPhone cases to Sperry Top-Sider boat shoes. Malin’s motto, which is clearly reflected in his work, is one we can all get behind: Make every day a getaway.
About Artful Living, the Magazine of the North, is an elegant, intelligent publication highlighting art, culture, travel, fashion, home, food, wine and profiles meant to inspire and entertain. Founded in 2008, this quarterly magazine features beautiful design and engaging original content, bringing the best of the North to an affluent audience with impeccable taste. The Artful Living lifestyle brand is headquartered in Minneapolis.
Distribution Artful Living is mailed to a select group of homes and businesses in the North. It is also distributed through a number of key marketing partners, including Coldwell Banker Burnet, Delta Sky Club, Galleria and International Market Square. You can find Artful Living exclusively for sale on newsstands at Barnes & Noble and Kowalski’s Markets.
Subscriptions To subscribe to Artful Living or order back issues, visit ArtfulLiving.com. For bulk copies, contact Kathleen Gildea at 952-230-3133 or kgildea@artfulliving.com.
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BUILDER LICENSE #BC635245
N E W
N E I G H B O R H O O D S
Woodland Hill Preserve MEDINA
Rick Denman
Hawks Pointe EXCELSIOR
612.889.6980
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M O D E L S
The Cove
ON LAKE MINNETONKA
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O N L I N E
ArtfulLiving.com
Visit our website to read previous issues, peruse the archives, and enjoy our online-exclusive content, like an uncut interview with celebrated Northern art collector Christopher Cardozo, our list of the Twin Cities’ best brunch spots and more. And while you’re there, enter our travel sweepstakes for the chance to let U.S. Bank FlexPerks bankroll your dream vacation.
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EMPOWER THE DRIVE with the ALL-NEW 2019 INFINITI QX50 The all-new 2019 INFINITI QX50 was designed with one thing in mind: You. Every inch, every feature and every innovation has been carefully designed to inspire, enhance and fulfill your inherent potential. From the world’s first production-ready Variable Compression Turbo engine and empowering ProPILOT Assist technology to a driver-centric design, you are the center of QX50’s universe. For added convenience in your busy life, we offer White Glove Luxury Pickup and Delivery Service for our customers. One of our qualified team members will drive up to 90 miles to pick up your vehicle for service, while delivering you a new 2018 or 2019 INFINITI loaner vehicle to use while your vehicle is being serviced.* When the service is complete we return your vehicle to you. It’s that easy. 1500 W 81st St. Bloomington, MN 55431 • 866-699-8533
INFINITI OF BLOOMINGTON
DESIGNED TO MATCH Fisher & Paykel products are designed for every size space from a compact apartment to a spacious family room. With the performance required by both a weekday cook and a weekend gourmet, we have the perfect match for your kitchen and the life lived within it.
ALL Inc. • 185 West Plato Blvd. • St Paul, MN 55107 • 651-227-6331 • allinc.com
Outdoor living is easy
Galleria | Edina | 952.927.1500 Little Canada | 651.634.6700
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Visit our design studios. Let our talented designers help with your next project.
PRE-LEASING FOR EARLY FALL Thirty stories of stylish living in Downtown Minneapolis featuring Tower & Penthouse Collection suites. Designed to inspire. Presentation Center open daily. Located at Marquette Avenue and 4th Street.
365Nicollet.com | 612-255-9706 Developed by The Op u s Gr o u p . Ma na g ed by Th e Excel si o r Gr o u p .
CULTURE
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY CHRISTOPHER CARDOZO
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Culture N I C E R I D E
NICE THE HOTTEST WHEELS FOR SUMMER JOY RIDING. BY M I TC H E L L L A M B E RT
2 01 8 M E R C E D E S - B E N Z A M G GT C R OA DST E R If you’ve ever wanted to hit racecar speeds with the top down, the AMG GT C Roadster was made for you. The aggressive and sporty design lets everyone know that this Mercedes-Benz is one serious machine. Its impressive V8 twin-turbo engine can output a staggering 550 horsepower — enough performance to keep you more than satisfied for years to come. Transforming the Roadster into an open-air cockpit requires nothing more than the push of a button and takes mere seconds. Inside, the automaker’s trademark attention to detail, premium leathers and carbon-fiber accents add an extra touch of elegance. Feldmann Imports, feldmannimports.com, from $185,295
2019 INFINITI QX50 With its aerodynamic and bold exterior styling, the revamped QX50 easily sets itself apart from the competition. Constructed with premium products, the midsize SUV is dramatically lighter and more fuel-efficient than its predecessors. Its variable combustion turbo engine gives you a mix of performance and eco-friendly driving. The high-end materials can also be found inside, where supple leathers and customizable trim create a luxe atmosphere. Infiniti also gave the QX50 an immense amount of new automotive technology, making for an enjoyable ride for all passengers. Luther Infiniti of Bloomington, lutherinfiniti.com, from $39,345
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RIDE 2 0 1 8 V O LV O S 9 0 T 8 Performance, efficiency, styling and comfort all in one sedan — can it get any better? Whoever said hybrids are dull has never been behind the wheel of a Volvo S90 T8. With its combustion and electric motors, this sedan can propel you to 60 mph in an astonishing 4.7 seconds. In addition to its insane acceleration and impressive 71 MPGe fuel rating, the comfort the S90 T8 offers is without rival. Along with its sleek exterior styling, the cabin boasts wood trim, plush leather seats, an enormous amount of legroom and a concert-like sound system, resulting in a chic, cozy environment. Borton Volvo, bortonvolvo.com, from $64,545
2 01 8 L A N D R OV E R R A N G E R OV E R S P O R T The much-anticipated face-lift to the Land Rover fleet is finally here, and it’s better than ever. Although the overall appearance is deceptively similar to that of its predecessors, the Range Rover Sport has received a fresh redesign inside and out. The exterior acquired a slimmer grille, aggressive lower fascia and revamped LED headlights that give the SUV a dynamic stance. But the biggest improvement — a plethora of cutting-edge intuitive touchscreens — can be found inside. The Range Rover Sport can handle any situation you throw at it while staying exceedingly stylish. Land Rover Minneapolis, landroverminneapolis.com, from $67,745 artfulliving.com
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Get more from your money. Money Market Special
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*Annual Percentage Yield (APY) is effective March 7th, 2018 - December 31st, 2018. This promotion is for new money only. The minimum balance required to earn the advertised APY is $100,000 and must be deposited in a single transaction. Offer valid for personal, business, and IRAs. Not valid for brokered deposits, certificates of deposit, or public funds. APY is a limited-time offer and subject to change. Member FDIC. Equal Housing Lender.
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Culture E N T E R T A I N I N G
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PROMOTION
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAMILLE LIZAMA
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MERRY
MAKING WANDERING KITCHEN GIVES EVERYONE A SEAT AT THE CHEF’S TABLE. B Y K AT H L E E N G I L D E A
After working countless years in conventional eateries, the pros behind Wandering Kitchen have created a customized experience that brings the chef’s table into clients’ homes. It’s a great way to host a family gathering or close a business deal without all the hustle and bustle of a busy restaurant. A Wandering Kitchen in-home catering experience is so much more than simply hiring someone to cook behind the scenes. The team is extremely thorough in its planning to ensure that party hosts can sit back and actually enjoy themselves. “We pay attention to detail so that every guest feels welcome and part of the festivities,” explains consummate hostess Jamie Compton. And the talented, gregarious chefs add an element of unexpected entertainment; impromptu cooking classes often arise when guests gather around the kitchen island to observe them in action. Although Wandering Kitchen caters and hosts events throughout the year, Executive Chef Colin Murray’s favorite time to entertain is late summer and autumn. “This time of year yields the largest Minnesota bounty to work with,” he explains. “Foraged mushrooms, perfectly ripened vegetables and local fish are at their finest.” The team pays particular attention to the nuance of each season to curate inspiring menus. To complement its in-home catering experiences, Wandering Kitchen recently opened a virtual restaurant called Chef2Go. It features the company’s trademark high-quality fare to go, perfect for busy families and health-conscious folks. Customers simply place an order that is delivered directly to their home, reheat and enjoy. All menus are carefully reviewed by a nutritionist and are prepared as fresh as can be. With its in-home catering and Chef2Go offerings, Wandering Kitchen ensures everyone gets a seat at the chef’s table.
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Bringing livestyle into living spaces. Spacecrafting Photography
International Market Square 612-338-2020 VUJOVICH.COM MN Lic#BC006077
BANK WITH SOMEONE WHO’S SUCCESSFUL, SAVVY AND RESPONSIVE. LIKE YOU. From the moment you walk into a Bridgewater Bank branch, you notice what makes it unique. No long lines. No automated messages. No inefficiencies. Clients are known by name, not an account number. We’ve earned our reputation by building relationships with successful individuals, entrepreneurs and real estate investors who appreciate the flexibility of a local bank. Depositing or withdrawing from your checking or savings accounts is fast, easy and hassle-free. And, you can enjoy all of the interest-bearing accounts, mobile banking and security at your locally-owned Bridgewater Bank. And that’s why a big bank, won’t rank. bridgewaterbankmn.com
Culture F A R E
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LIBBY ANDERSON AND ELIESA JOHNSON
Fruit Forward CELEBRATED PASTRY CHEF DIANE YANG SHARES A REFRESHING SUMMERTIME SWEET. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
Diane Yang has been busy making the Twin Cities a sweeter place. She’s the ace pastry chef behind the exquisite dessert menus at acclaimed eateries Bellecour and Spoon and Stable, where she complements chef and restaurateur Gavin Kaysen’s talent and zeal. Both were named James Beard Award nominees this year; her for Outstanding Pastry Chef and him for Best Chef: Midwest. Raised in Junction City, Wisconsin, and trained locally at Le Cordon Bleu, Yang made a name for herself at such Twin Cities institutions as Aquavit, Solera and La Belle Vie. When we tapped her for a summer-ready recipe, she offered up this home-chef-friendly take on her mouthwatering frozen meyer lemon parfait.
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“I love to finish dinner with a light, airy dessert, and this is right up my alley. It just cleanses the palate and is perfect for summer.”
Diane Yang’s Frozen Meyer Lemon Parfait Makes four servings
Meyer Lemon Curd
Parfait
½ cup ½ cup ½ cup 1 4
2 cups 9 1 cup 4 ½ cup 1 ½ ⅛ tsp. ¼ tsp.
sugar meyer lemon juice butter egg egg yolks
1. Bring sugar, lemon juice and butter to a boil. Set aside. 2. Whisk together egg and egg yolks. Slowly temper into lemon juice mixture. 3. Cook over a double boiler until super thick. 4. Strain through a chinois then chill over an ice bath.
cream egg yolks sugar gelatin sheets meyer lemon curd meyer lemon, zested vanilla bean, scraped on one side salt citric acid pistachio brittle mandarin orange segments lemon sherbet
1. Whip cream to medium stiff and set aside.
Pistachio Brittle ½ cup ¼ cup pinch
sugar chopped pistachios salt
2. Whip egg yolks on high. 3. Bring sugar and ⅓ cup water to a dark caramel. Dilute with ¼ cup water. 4. Pour hot caramel into thick whipped egg yolks. 5. Wring out gelatin sheets and add to hot egg yolks. Whip until cool.
1. Cook together sugar and ⅛ cup water until a dark caramel color. Turn off heat.
6. Fold in lemon curd, lemon zest, vanilla bean, salt and citric acid.
2. Stir in pistachios and salt. 3. Pour mixture out onto parchment and let cool.
8. Pour mixture onto half sheet pan with double parchment. Freeze for 24 hours then cut to desired size.
4. Once cooled, break into small pieces. Using a food processor, pulse into a small crumble. Store in a dry container.
9. To serve, position semifreddo on a cold plate and top with pistachio brittle and a spoonful of orange segments. Serve with lemon sherbet.
7. Fold mixture into cream and taste.
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An SUV with the heart and soul of a sports car. The Mercedes-Benz GLE 450 Coupe AMG. Available at Feldmann Imports Sleek, sensuous and self-confident. What defines a Mercedes-Benz coupe is not just its body but its soul. And among SUVs, nothing reveals true depth of character with an unmatched breadth of capabilities like the Star in its grille. From its aggressive stance to its muscular shape, the GLE Coupe is a new breed of thoroughbred performance.
4901 American Blvd. W. | Bloomington, MN 55437 | 952.837.6300 | FeldmannImports.com
Culture A G E N D A
The
AGENDA THE SEASON’S HOTTEST HAPPENINGS.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LANDMARK | HOME BUILT BY STONEWOOD, LLC
B Y K AT E N E L S O N
ARTISAN HOM E TOUR JUNE 8–24 • TWIN CITIES The fifth annual Artisan Home Tour by Parade of Homes showcases residences across the metro area conceived and constructed by 27 talented Northern builders and remodelers. On display are the evident artistic vision and expert craftsmanship behind each abode — not to mention the hottest trends in design, technology and the like. Prepare to be inspired. artisanhometour.org
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Culture A G E N D A
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LES TENSION
KOHLER G RAND PRIX JUNE 21–24 • ELKHART LAKE, WISCONSIN Come Kohler Grand Prix weekend, IndyCar fans descend upon Road America, one of the world’s fastest permanent road racing tracks, to take in the action as an impressive lineup of international drivers takes to the track. New this year is the Turn 14 Experience, which boasts prime viewing from a fully furnished, climate-controlled chalet complete with complimentary food and drink. roadamerica.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY TRAVELSOUTHDAKOTA.COM
BADLANDS ASTRONOMY FESTIVA L JULY 6–8 • BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK, SOUTH DAKOTA On any given night, Badlands National Park visitors can take in some 7,500 stars. Although summer night sky viewing is offered here Friday through Monday, the park’s annual astronomy festival is the real star of the show. It attracts professional and amateur astronomers alike, who come for the daily family-friendly activities, the evening presentations and, of course, the nightly telescope viewing. nps.gov/badl
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Culture A G E N D A
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFF CORCORAN
CYC LO- CROSS WORLD CU P SEPTEMBER 28–30 • IOWA CITY, IOWA For the third consecutive year, Iowa City will host a round of the UCI Cyclo-Cross World Cup, a season-long competition crisscrossing the globe. The sport is considered the highest level of bike racing and involves cycling, running and jumping over obstacles on courses with steep hills, tricky turns and terrain ranging from pavement to gravel to mud. jinglecross2.com
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M I N N E S OTA | W I S CO N S I N | F LO R I D A
Culture A R T
The Spirit Hunter CHRISTOPHER CARDOZO HAS AMASSED AN UNREAL COLLECTION OF EDWARD S. CURTIS WORKS.
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY WING TA AND CHRISTOPHER CARDOZO
B Y D AV I D M A H O N E Y
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Culture A R T
Forty years is a long time to devote to another person. A commitment of that intensity would be difficult to sustain if the relationship didn’t offer substantial rewards. Christopher Cardozo, who has dedicated the past four decades to collecting and disseminating the work of celebrated Wisconsin son Edward S. Curtis, has no doubt that the benefits he has reaped have more than repaid his efforts. “Collecting Curtis’s work has profoundly informed my life,” notes Cardozo, surrounded by Curtis photographs in his Minneapolis home near Lake of the Isles. “It’s been a window and a mirror. It has helped me understand so many things about myself and about the world.” Cardozo’s unwavering commitment to Curtis parallels the famed photographer and ethnologist’s own dogged determination during the first 30 years of the 20th century to create a record of native North Americans in photographs and words. The resulting 20-volume set of The North American Indian stands as a landmark achievement in the arenas of photography, publishing and ethnographical research. The life trajectories of Curtis, who is the subject of several sesquicentennial celebrations this year, and Cardozo, who celebrates his 70th birthday this year, have intersected in surprising ways. Both had their first significant exposure to photography as teens in St. Paul, Curtis as an apprentice in a portrait studio and Cardozo as a high-school student. And both had transformative experiences in faraway places among native peoples. Curtis’s watershed experience happened the summer of 1900, when he accompanied prominent anthropologist George Bird Grinnell on an expedition to Montana. There, living among the Blackfoot people, he witnessed one of the last great enactments of the sun dance ceremony before it was outlawed by the federal government. Because Grinnell had earned the trust of the Blackfoot people over the course of 20 seasons of fieldwork, they were willing to talk with Curtis about their personal histories and their spiritual beliefs and practices. Although by this time Curtis had established a successful portrait studio in Seattle, he hit the road again soon after returning from Montana, this time on a self-financed trip to Arizona to photograph the Navajo and Hopi peoples. After that, Cardozo explains, Curtis “never turned back. That became his life, his passion.” For Cardozo’s part, soon after graduating from the University of Minnesota with a BFA in photography and film, he drove to Mexico to help a professor make a film. The instructor ultimately chose not to pursue the project, but he did suggest Cardozo explore a tiny village high in the Sierra Madre mountains of Oaxaca. He ended up spending almost six months there, taking photographs, shooting film and making sound recordings. “It was probably the most incredible experience I had ever had in my life,” says Cardozo. “Most of the people thought they lived on an island. There was no electricity. There was very little contact with the outside world. Most of them had never heard of the United States.” Because the native people spoke an obscure, unwritten dialect, Cardozo would go for days without speaking to anyone. That left him free to observe and to film what he observed.
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Cardozo’s first fateful Curtis encounter came in 1972, a day or two after returning from his Mexican sojourn. He stopped off in Albuquerque, New Mexico, to visit a friend and fellow photographer and to show her the prints he had made of his photos from the Oaxacan village. She insisted he see the work of Edward S. Curtis, which had just become available for the first time in a contemporary book. When Cardozo laid eyes on the tome, he felt “a shock of recognition” at seeing photography so reminiscent of what he had just shot. Back on the road to Minnesota, Cardozo made another stop in Boulder, Colorado, to see more friends, including a Native American art dealer from St. Paul. When Cardozo showed him his newly acquired book, the art dealer informed him that a group that had recently purchased the mother lode of Curtis archives was supplying a small gallery right there in town. The gallery turned out to have several photogravures intended to go into volumes of The North American Indian. After some internal debate, Cardozo ended up buying two of them for $35 apiece. “That was the start of it,” he says, reflecting on his first steps along the Curtis trail. Having worked for a few months and saved a few thousand dollars, Cardozo spent it all on Curtis prints. In order to recoup some of his investment, he sold some prints, establishing the strategy he pursued for the next several decades as he built what is widely acknowledged to be the broadest Curtis collection in the world. Although Cardozo takes great pleasure in owning such a rich cache of Curtis’s work, he also gains great satisfaction from sharing that work with others. Over the years, he has published books about Curtis, mounted international exhibitions of his photography, printed and sold contemporary photography made from his negatives, and even operated a gallery devoted to him. “I feel a really strong moral obligation to bring his work to the world,” says Cardozo. “It transcends Curtis; it transcends native people. If you look at the best of his work, it is really a profoundly human story.” This article is from the Artful Living archives. It first appeared in our autumn 2013 issue. Visit our website for an exclusive Q + A with Christopher Cardozo.
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DISPOSABLE HAS NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD. B Y C H R I S P L A N TA N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY 2 N D T R U T H
We Northerners can’t get enough of summer and find any reason to be outside during our warmest season. The living is easy, and to keep alfresco gatherings simple, A-list hostesses are increasingly turning to paper dining goods and pairing them with elegant serveware. When your occasion calls for a disposable solution, turn to our favorite find, Wasara. This Japanese brand’s tableware is elegant, convenient and fully biodegradable. But sheer beauty is only half the story. Manufactured from tree-free materials (specifically bagasse and bamboo), these paper goods are both waterproof and oil-resistant, making them functional and versatile. Plus these pieces aren’t tied to one particular event or season, so you can use them year-round — no need to worry about storing themed party wares. If you love summertime soirees but hate cleaning up, feel good about using a disposable solution that’s beautiful, convenient and eco-friendly.
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Style Q + A
DRESS CODE NORTH DAKOTA NATIVE MOLLY DICKSON FINDS HER WAY IN THE FASHION WORLD. BY AMBER GIBSON
After cutting her teeth at Marie Claire and as celebrity stylist Leslie Fremar’s assistant, North Dakota native Molly Dickson started flying solo within the past year. The 31-year-old New Yorker has quickly made a name for herself, having styled memorable red-carpet looks for hot new Netflix stars Katherine Langford (13 Reasons Why) and Sadie Sink (Stranger Things). Here, she dishes on her favorite summer looks, must-have accessories and more.
What does a day in the life look like for you? The first thing I do when I wake up is check emails in bed in case there’s anything urgent, especially considering the time zone difference working with designers in Europe. Then I like to start the day with a high-intensity workout; sweating helps manage my stress and keeps me in a positive mood. Then coffee. I spend a lot of my time communicating with fashion houses trying to get the best clothes and accessories for my clients. Just because I like a dress doesn’t mean it’s necessarily available. There is generally only one dress being shared between all the stylists and fashion magazines. A magazine might have it on a shoot in Paris the day before my fitting in Los Angeles. So coordinating how to share that one dress is very logistical and time-consuming.
How do you stay healthy while traveling and working crazy hours? I am in Los Angeles a lot, so whenever I have a break between fittings and appointments, I try to get in a quick hike. I also find that Y7 yoga really helps calm me when I’m feeling overwhelmed. I work out hard so that I can eat what I want, like In-N-Out Burger or Shake Shack.
How has your style evolved since you attended the University of Minnesota a decade ago?
What accessory should be in every woman’s closet? Every woman, regardless of age, needs a great pair of black booties. They are comfortable, and they last several seasons. They can be paired with black skinny jeans and a tee for a casual look or with a dress for an elevated look. I even sometimes wear my booties with my Adidas track pants to mix it up a bit.
What are the hottest fashion trends this summer? Bright yellow, as seen on the runways of Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and Brandon Maxwell. Thick-soled sneakers (Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton). Polka dots (Dior Haute Couture, Valentino). And sportswear (Christian Dior, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton). I could not be happier that sneakers are now very on-trend since I am a tomboy myself. I think this summer we will be seeing lots of cute sneakers paired with summery floral dresses. I like the juxtaposition of tomboy and girly.
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When I was at university, I dressed for comfort. Being stylish was the last thing on my mind while walking from the East Bank to the West Bank in sub-zero temps. Now I pretty much wear black yoga pants and Hanes cropped tees paired with black moon boots. So I guess not much has changed in terms of my personal style — still comfortable and a bit sporty. I have always been a very active person and dressed accordingly, so I’m very happy that athleisure wear has become so trendy in the past couple years.
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Previous PIERRE FREY FABRIC IN TUTTI FRUTTI, Holly Hunt, hollyhunt.com, price upon request • CARMEN SOL GRAZIA MINI TOTE IN WHITE, Big Island Swim & Surf Company, bigislandswimandsurf.com, $125 Above INDEGO AFRICA POPPY PALM POM TOTE, indegoafrica.org, $110 • LOEFFLER RANDALL GABI LEATHER AND CANVAS POMPOM SLIDE, Pumpz & Co., pumpzco.com, $295 Right SERENA & LILY UMBRIA BEACH TOWEL IN MIDNIGHT, serenaandlily.com, $68 • ALBERTO FERMANI NAVELLI PUMP IN BIANCO, D.Nolo, dnolo.com, $395 • SENSI STUDIO BEACH BAG, Pumpz & Co., $185 • SERENA & LILY UMBRIA BEACH TOWEL IN COBALT, $68 • THIERRY LASRY PROBABLY SUNGLASSES IN GOLD AND BROWN, InVision, invision-optical.com, $625
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LOEFFLER RANDALL VERA RUFFLE SLIDE SANDAL, Pumpz & Co., $375 • MIRADOR SARONG, stylist’s own
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AWAKEN YOUR INNER EXPLORER AT ROYALTON NEGRIL. BY M A N DY E B E R T
I bumped along the road to my destination in Negril, Jamaica, the ride punctuated with frequent laughter and “ya mons.” I had known my travel companion, a Montego Bay local, for all of five minutes, yet already I felt a sense of camaraderie with the man with a constant twinkle in his eye. This is the way of the Jamaican people; you’ll be hard-pressed to find someone who isn’t eager to strike up a conversation or crack open a Red Stripe with you. Several small villages, two bamboo-tree tunnels and one fiery sunset later, I arrived at Royalton Negril, a waterfront resort offering a new brand of all-inclusive with a distinctively luxurious feel.
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As I descended to the beach level with an icy cocktail in hand, I took in the campus of pristine pathways, rocky coves and lush greenery. The far-reaching property curls around the bay, with a band shell at its center. Royalton Negril boasts 407 luxe guest rooms, every last one equipped with a balcony or terrace, a rain shower, and a signature DreamBed. The cherry on top? 24-hour butler service to meet your every need during your stay. Royalton Negril balances relaxation with excitement, all without requiring you to set foot off the grounds. There are Royalton Fit activities galore, global-inspired dining options, private beach harbors and lively water parks. Plus the aforementioned band shell regularly hosts concerts for a truly Jamaican experience. If you do opt to venture off property, the beach city of Negril has plenty more to entice the explorer in you. Just an hour from the resort, Mayfield Falls is an experience you won’t want to miss. With the help of Nexus Tours, you can make your way up the falls with a fun-loving crew to show you the way through the many small pools and to direct your attention to the lush plant life that surrounds you. The refreshing sea-foam green water left me feeling rejuvenated and at least a few years younger. To truly appreciate the signature turquoise Caribbean waters, I recommend an excursion on a glass-bottom boat. Famous Vincent is your best bet, as Vincent himself and his trusty team will make it a day you won’t forget. You can snorkel from the boat or just sit back, relax and view the majestic marine life on display, including starfish, stingrays and sea turtles. For a lively evening of reggae and cliff jumping, Rick’s Café is a great final stop for the day. Locals and tourists gather here to take in the incredible sunset views. The animated crowd sticks around until just after sundown, then the once boisterous spot mysteriously empties. That raucous liveliness is replaced with a quiet serenity, making this the supreme setting to let the sun set on your Jamaican adventure to Royalton Negril.
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EXPLORING SHANGHAI AND HONG KONG. BY FRANK ROFFERS
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A TALE OF TWO CITIES
SHANGHAI
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID COWAN/THE BRANDMAN AGENCY
If You Go
Shanghai is a city with two personalities: the older Puxi district and its young Pudong counterpart. Essentially, China’s past and future battle for space in a 24-million-person metropolis. The city is built around a waterfront, where the Bund and the Huangpu River bring together these two distinct halves. Shanghai translates to “on the sea” and is best described as a coastal metropolitan dynamo with an anything-goes attitude. Located above Shanghai’s financial epicenter, the 58-story Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong is a gleaming glass tower that nods to the city’s past but offers a distinctly modern spin. It’s directly above the IFC mall, which is filled with luxury brands. The hotel’s 285 opulent guest rooms and suites take inspiration from the art deco period, bringing travelers back to the excitement of Shanghai’s golden era. The lobby is an intimate hexagonal room that sets an indulgent tone with its eel-skin-upholstered walls, cushioned seating areas and art deco chandeliers. Best described as otherworldly, the interior design pairs well with the space-age structures and astounding architecture in the surrounding
WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Shanghai is April to June or the early autumn months of September and October. During these times, temperatures hover around 70 degrees. WHAT TO PACK Shanghai tends to be fairly casual. Don’t worry about packing too much; if you forget something, you can buy it here. WHAT TO KNOW Be prepared to go off the grid. Many popular Western websites are banned in mainland China, including Google, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and YouTube. One way around this is to install a virtual private network. The WeChat smartphone app also comes in handy for calling and messaging. GETTING AROUND The easiest mode of transportation is Didi (China’s version of Uber), which launched an English-language interface last year. Note that most taxi drivers do not speak English.
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panoramic skyline. Guests can upgrade to gain Club Level access, which includes personalized service, several daily food presentations and free-flowing drinks. And despite being popular with business travelers, the hotel is family-friendly, offering kids’ programming and complimentary childcare services. There are several dining venues, from Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Jin Xuan to Flair Rooftop Restaurant & Bar, one of the hottest spots in town and the highest alfresco dining venue in mainland China. Located on the 52nd floor, Aura is a sophisticated spot for high tea and tiers of bite-size treats by day that transforms into a jazz bar boasting 30 varieties of Rosé Champagne come night. Shanghai is a shopper’s paradise, featuring custom clothing and accessories as well as quality souvenirs like chopsticks, jewelry, scarves and tea. The city is also notorious for its high-quality fakes. Knockoff Cartier jewelry, Hermès handbags and Moncler jackets can be purchased for a pittance. Not-to-be-missed attractions include Yuyuan Garden, a well-preserved ancient garden with a 400-year history, as well as nearby Chenghuang Temple, which was built during the Ming Dynasty. Travelers can witness the amazing skyline along the Bund, featuring the Oriental Pearl Tower and the Shanghai Tower, as well as several Colonial buildings along the Huangpu River. Architecture buffs will enjoy taking in the diverse structures that remain as relics of the city’s history of foreign occupation.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID COWAN/THE BRANDMAN AGENCY
HONG KONG As Asia’s longtime financial capital, Hong Kong remains one of the region’s most urbane cities. After a 99-year lease to the United Kingdom, the port was handed back to China in 1997. The British Empire’s influence is still apparent at every turn, from post boxes to road names. Hong Kong is a place where the streets are always full and the lights always bright. The world’s tallest hotel, the Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong is situated on the 102nd through 118th floors of the iconic International Commerce Centre located on the West Kowloon waterfront. All 312 guest rooms have unrivaled views of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong Island. The Club Level on the 116th floor boasts exclusive benefits, panoramic vistas through its floor-to-ceiling windows, and six daily food and beverage presentations, including all-day pours of Louis Roederer Champagne. The six onsite restaurants afford diners the opportunity to try a different cuisine every night. The two-Michelin-starred Tin Lung Heen serves refined Cantonese cuisine against a backdrop of contemporary decor and dramatic vistas. Sky bar Ozone combines inventive drinks and incredible views up on the 118th floor, making it the world’s highest bar. Patrons can indulge in signature cocktails and Asian tapas while enjoying DJ beats and the captivating panorama. Following suit, the plush spa by ESPA is also the highest in the world. With a feeling of being in the clouds, it serves as a respite for weary travelers and offers treatments addressing
If You Go WHEN TO GO Hong Kong has a subtropical climate, with sweltering temperatures and frequent monsoons and typhoons during the summer months. The prime time to visit is October through February. WHAT TO PACK Most importantly, pack an umbrella as the rain here comes on suddenly and unexpectedly. Hong Kong is casual by day and dressier come night. If you’re here on business, it’s best to keep it formal. GETTING AROUND Getting to and from the Hong Kong International Airport is quite simple and takes less than half an hour. Contrary to popular belief, taxis are relatively inexpensive here. Uber is also available, but it is more costly than taxi service.
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every specific need. Also on the 116th floor are the state-of-the-art fitness center, indoor infinity pool, outdoor terrace and whirlpool. Hong Kong’s frenetic pace feels like an amped-up New York City. But one of the biggest surprises here is the unspoiled nature that exists just minutes away from the most crowded parts of the city. Travelers can take a day trip to the mountains or the beach for an urban time-out. The city’s diverse street markets offer unique ambiances, catering to various consumers with different merchandise. For instance, the Ladies’ Market on Tung Choi Street specializes in women’s clothing and accessories. Temple Street Night Market is a bustling nocturnal bazaar complete with fortune tellers and opera singers. And Stanley Market, which occupies an old fishing village on the southern coast of Hong Kong Island, boasts jewelry, souvenirs and home decor. The Peak on Hong Kong Island affords the most incredible views of the city and the countryside beyond. The Star Ferry is also an absolute must. This vessel transports guests along a scenic route between the Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong Island. Amazing photo ops abound, especially at night.
Business Class on Cathay Pacific boasts an ultra-luxe experience for travelers wanting privacy, space to work and a place to sleep. It feels like occupying an exclusive suite up in the air. Nonstop service to Hong Kong is offered from several American cities, including Boston, Chicago, New York City, Los Angeles, San Francisco and more. Business Class offers priority check-in and boarding, premium lounge access, and luxurious amenity kits. The elite cabin features fine dining, state-of-the-art entertainment and seats that lay flat into beds. The Business Class menu incorporates local, seasonal ingredients. To complement a meal, travelers can choose from a top-shelf selection of wines and spirits as well as fine chocolates. Cathay Pacific has long been known for having the finest airport lounges in the world. The lounges in Shanghai and Hong Kong offer complimentary beer, wine and spirits along with self-service buffet options, including the iconic Noodle Bar. Before a long-haul flight, it’s like a stop at your favorite restaurant.
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THE NORTH
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY MOGLEA AND THE PFISTER HOTEL
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THE WRITE STUFF An Iowa company is reviving the art of the handwritten note. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
Handwritten letters have fallen by the wayside in recent years in favor of instant-gratification emails and text messages, but Iowa-based letterpress company Moglea is helping the written word make a comeback with its undeniably chic stationery. Chad and Meg Gleason launched the line back in 2012 and since then have designed and built a studio and wood shop on his family farm in rural Audubon to house the growing business and its talented team. The handmade goods are in high demand across the country, available online and at such stores as Anthropologie and Paper Source. Each and every item is unique, having been “crafted with joy” at Moglea headquarters. That means wares like greeting cards, notepads, sketchbooks, gift wrap and art prints are hand painted, dip dyed, foil stamped on the company’s Kluge press or printed on one of the three in-house letterpresses. The artful creations are enough to inspire even the most tech-obsessed to drop their devices and put pen to paper. Moglea, 2061 215th St., Audubon, Iowa, 712-304-0797, moglea.com
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A STITCH IN TIME The Pfister Hotel celebrates 125 years. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
Combining tradition and grace, the historic Pfister Hotel has stood as a downtown Milwaukee icon for the past 125 years. Upon entering the lobby, guests are often awestruck by the incredible Romanesque Revival architecture and the extensive Victorian art collection. The hotel has earned numerous accolades and awards over the decades, including the prestigious AAA Four-Diamond status for an impressive 40 consecutive years. Envisioned by businessman Guido Pfister and his son, Charles, it was considered one of the most lavish hotels of its time, having cost nearly $1 million to construct. Early guests enjoyed groundbreaking innovations including fireproofing, electricity throughout the building and individual thermostats in every room. In 1962, movie-theater mogul Ben Marcus purchased the aging property and restored it to its former glory. Today, the 307 guest rooms combine Old World charm with contemporary amenities. Five dining venues give patrons plenty to choose from, including indulging in the over-the-top brunch at the Rouge or grabbing a drink at martini bar Blu up on the 23rd floor. The in-house Well Spa + Salon offers innovative treatments like the re-mineralizing hydrotherapy bath and the phytonutrient stem-cell facial. And the artist-in-residence program, now in its 10th year, highlights regional and national creatives, giving them the opportunity to showcase their work at the historic property. The Pfister Hotel, 424 E. Wisconsin Ave., Milwaukee, 414-273-8222, thepfisterhotel.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAUGE COLLECTIVE
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RISE AND SHINE Fairgrounds Coffee & Tea flips the java script. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
Fairgrounds Coffee & Tea takes a unique approach to the typical caffeine fix, bringing together cult-favorite craft brands from across the country. The brainchild of Chicago entrepreneur Michael Schultz, the café has been turning coffee culture on its head since opening its Windy City outposts last year in Bucktown and inside the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel. This year, Schultz has set his sights on Minneapolis and Los Angeles. Designed by Chicago-based Barker/Nestor and Ingrassia Design, the North Loop outpost is set to debut in early summer. The space will blend white marble, reclaimed wood and exposed brick and will boast an alfresco seating area prime for warm-weather lounging. Dubbed “roaster agnostic,” Fairgrounds features such brands as Spyhouse (Minneapolis), Colectivo (Milwaukee), Dark Matter (Chicago), Verve (Los Angeles) and Stumptown (Portland, Oregon), even offering flights so coffee snobs can sample a variety. Tea aficionados will enjoy the inventive tea program created in partnership with Rishi (Milwaukee), including matcha and organic whole-leaf options. A selection of kombuchas, cold brews and sparkling teas will also be available, as will specialty elixirs and housemade sandwiches, salads and snacks. Fairgrounds Coffee & Tea, 116 Third Ave. N., Minneapolis, fairgrounds.cafe
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Compass T O U R
NEW YORK TO UR
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADRIAN GAUT
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ARTISTIC LICENSE A free-spirited Flatiron District fixture is reborn. BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H
The former George Washington Hotel was once home to artists, writers and musicians. Now the historic 1928 Flatiron property has been reborn for a new generation of creatives. Things get a little sketchy in the lobby, where a custom mural by a Bard College graduate student adorns the wall. It’s one of many works Bard students have created throughout the hotel, lending a casual, curated ethos. Some guest rooms feature tricked-out bunk beds in a variety of configurations. The vibe here is American Craftsman, with warm woods, vibrantly colored textiles and custom lighting. Sprawling penthouse suites offer a more upscale vibe. Standout in-house eatery Simon & the Whale has quickly become a New York hot spot. Crave-worthy cuisine — chicory tonnato, bright crudos and tartares, and the trademark roasted-barley black bread — is served with a rustic sensibility. In the hotel’s former library is the George Washington Bar, a clubby Old World space offering drinks and small bites like deviled eggs and caviar with latkes. Studio, meanwhile, serves sweet and savory pastries along with North African–tinged fare all day long. Freehand, 23 Lexington Ave., New York, 212-475-1920, freehandhotels.com
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FRENCH CONNECTION Discover a clandestine Jazz Age supper club. BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H
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Feel like a Jazz Age Parisian flapper when you head to this French-inspired bistro set up like a clandestine supper club. To get there, you’ll pass through a nondescript door. Then right before your eyes unfolds a darkly lit room dressed up with floral wallpaper, velvet seating and long, silky lavender drapes. Indulgence and the spirit of cabaret come alive at Doux Supperclub. A jazz band and burlesque show will surely keep you entertained, and light bites and delectable desserts will keep you satiated. There’s also brunch as well as sweet and savory dinners for parties of two or more, complete with a curated live show. The mood is soft and sultry with dark woods, mirrored walls, and thickets of wisteria dangling from the ceiling. It feels as though you’ve snagged a coveted invite to a private party on the Île St.-Louis. The menu proffers a list of decadent cocktails paired with specialty chocolates. The Summer in St. Germain features Champagne, elderflower liqueur and strawberry purée, while the Viva La Révolution mixes mescal, ancho reyes chili liqueur, honey and blood orange juice. C’est magnifique. Doux Supperclub, 59 W. 21st St., New York, 212-359-4200, douxsupperclub.com
POWER DRESSING Behold the Suistudio pantsuit. BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H
At a time when American women are taking aim at the corridors of power, it makes sense that the classic pantsuit is being reconsidered in a whole new way. Suistudio is the brainchild of Amsterdam-based menswear brand Suitsupply, which is known for delivering the perfect fit at an affordable price. Now the company is tailor making its goods for women, extending the menswear concept to the female form. The staff here is specially trained in fitting trousers and jackets for a variety of female bodies. High-quality fabrics come in classic cuts and styles. The shop’s racks are filled with single-breasted jackets both short and long as well as double-breasted blazers in plaids and tweeds. Rounding out the selection are blouses, vests and a variety of pant styles, from slim to relaxed. Dresses and skirts are designed for the boardroom then dinner afterward. Best of all, the expert team will tailor your suit right on the spot. Seamstresses can narrow pant legs that seem too wide and hem them to the perfect length. Waistbands can be adjusted and jacket sleeves shortened. Go have lunch, and when you return, your tailor-made power suit will be ready for action. Suistudio, 230 Vesey St., New York, 315-873-2693, suistudio.com
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LOS ANGELES
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GETAWAY PLAN A peaceful escape awaits at Calamigos Guest Ranch. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
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PLANT POWER Crossroads Kitchen elevates the vegan dining experience. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
Crossroads Kitchen features industrial-chic lighting, white tablecloths, leather-backed chairs and delicate glassware, almost epitomizing the aesthetic of the modern steakhouse. The key word here is “almost,” because Crossroads is not what it looks like: It’s a fully vegan venture. For founder and chef Tal Ronnen — a pioneer in the plant-based dining movement and a favorite amongst such celebrities as Don Cheadle, Mick Jagger, Joaquin Phoenix, Ruby Rose and more — the aim was to serve vegan food in a refined, upscale environment. “There are no obvious vegan cues, and most guests don’t even make the connection that the menus are plant-based,” he says. Ronnen’s creativity is evident in the diverse offerings. Among the weekend brunch standouts are the creative Jann’s bagel, a twist on the classic that features an incredibly delicious smoked heirloom carrot “lox” in place of salmon, and the savory crepe, which boats wild mushrooms, Brussels sprout leaves, pearl onions and Chardonnay cheese sauce. But really, there are no bad choices to be made here as all the cuisine is carefully crafted and expertly executed. Crossroads Kitchen, 8284 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, 323-782-9245, crossroadskitchen.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY CALAMIGOS GUEST RANCH AND TAL RONNEN
Few places have the power to take away the breath of seasoned travelers, but Calamigos Guest Ranch is undoubtedly one of them. High in the rugged mountains of Malibu sits this luxe family-owned resort, home to more than 70 cottages, bungalows and estate rooms set on 200 acres of prime real estate. The property is unobtrusive yet spectacularly clever in its design. Guests are greeted by glowing chandeliers that hang among the pine trees, leading the way to the glass-fronted reception area that boasts a soaring fire on cooler evenings. Though the ranch is just a quick drive along the ocean from Los Angeles, the peaceful spot has none of the hustle and bustle of the city. Instead, guests can cozy up in a private bungalow with a fenced-in outdoor deck and shower, take a dip in one of the three pools, or hop down to the resort’s exclusive beach club on the Malibu coast with open access to chairs, umbrellas, paddleboards and beach games. The resort’s expertly trained staff will coordinate wine tastings, pizza-making classes, horseback riding and much more. For travelers who think they’ve seen it all, Calamigos Guest Ranch is sure to delight. Calamigos Guest Ranch, 327 S. Latigo Canyon Rd., Malibu, 818-575-4400, calamigosguestranch.com
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY MANSUR GAVRIEL
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THINK PINK Mansur Gavriel colors outside the lines. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
Blush pink, minimalist bucket bags and potted lavender characterize Los Angeles’s newest luxury boutique, charming café and feminine flower shop. Mansur Gavriel, the ethereally chic brand beloved by stars like Karlie Kloss, Emma Stone and Reese Witherspoon, quietly opened its Melrose Place outpost this spring. But the space is so much more than a store; it was conceptualized by owners Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel to house their multiple enterprises. Just outside, delicate café tables speckle the bougainvillea-framed patio, like something from the French Riviera. Café Flora serves avocado toast, oatmeal, coffees and salads dreamed up by Tartine’s Scott Boggs for shoppers in need of a little healthy fuel. Citrus, olive and pomegranate trees provide the café’s natural roof. Potted gardenia, jasmine and lavender plants surround the space and are available for purchase. This magical boutique-cum-café is a haven for those looking to make their latest fashion investment or those simply wanting to splurge on luscious florals and fantastic fare. Mansur Gavriel, 8475 Melrose Place, Los Angeles, 323-591-0434, mansurgavriel.com
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BOOKISH B & B This West Loop hideaway is Chicago’s best-kept secret. Situated on a little side street in Chicago’s trendy West Loop, the Publishing House combines the charm of a traditional B & B with the chicness of a boutique hotel. Having opened last June, it’s still an under-the-radar gem. Husband-and-wife innkeepers Shawn Uldridge and Kimberly Lowery are consummate hosts, quickly making guests feel like old friends. They cook breakfast to order each morning, happily accommodating dietary restrictions and special requests (think gluten-free corn fritters topped with spinach and poached eggs). The spacious common area features a grand piano, a wood-burning fireplace and a lovely hodgepodge of midcentury modern furniture. Eleven guest rooms are inspired by authors who have written books based in Chicago. The Sinclair is stocked with copies of Upton Sinclair’s The Jungle, while the Audrey is named for Audrey Niffenegger, author of The Time Traveler’s Wife. Even non-bookworms will appreciate the industrial furnishings, heated bathroom floors, and Malin + Goetz toiletries. Ladies can get coiffed and made up at the Solo Salon without leaving the building, and the intimate Press Room wine bar is a cozy spot for a nightcap. The Publishing House, 108 N. May St., Chicago, 312-554-5857, publishinghousebnb.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA HAINES
BY AMBER GIBSON
CHICAGO PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMILIA CZADER
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VIVA MÉXICO Iconic Topolobampo is better than ever. BY AMBER GIBSON
Last year, Topolobampo won the highest honors at the James Beard Awards, picking up the prize for Outstanding Restaurant after many years of Outstanding Service nominations. Chef Rick Bayless’s Michelin-starred gem has been dazzling Chicagoans with elegant, authentic Mexican cuisine since 1989. And in today’s fickle culinary landscape, that’s no small feat. After the big win, Bayless nixed the eatery’s à-la-carte menu in favor of three tasting menus. This past winter, the seasonal seven-course option was playfully based on seven different beaches in Mexico. Skipping touristic Cabo and Cancun, Bayless turned to namesake Topolobampo in Sinaloa for aguachile negro and to Puerto Escondido in Oaxaca for a seared-scallop course with sumptuous uni-infused yellow mole poured tableside by passionate, knowledgeable servers. Bayless brings the entire staff on an R & D field trip to Mexico each May. This year, the team visited the Yucatán Peninsula; their culinary and cultural experiences there will spark ideas for the autumn menu. The current summer menu, meanwhile, is inspired by the collection of Mexican artwork on display at the eatery, connecting ingredients with emotions. Topolobampo, 445 N. Clark St., Chicago, 312-661-1434, rickbayless.com
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INDIE COOL At Ad Hoc, chic local fashion rules the day. BY AMBER GIBSON
Bomber jackets, fringe jeans, alligator-leather bracelets, scarab earrings: Ad Hoc’s eclectic array of womenswear and accessories makes it easy to design a whole new outfit. You’ll find mostly independent designers at this Ukrainian Village boutique, with a few bigger brand names scattered throughout the well-curated mix. The creative collection of small goods — candles, essential oils, tarot cards and the like — makes Ad Hoc the perfect spot to pick up a thoughtful gift, too. “We try to carry items that you can’t find elsewhere,” explains owner Kat Heil. “Many lines are made in the United States or at least sourced ethically and designed here. We’re always on the hunt for indie makers of cool lifestyle and home goods.” Local company Bird Trouble also has a studio in the shop, where visitors can watch founder Alexz Sandoval dying leather and designing and sewing handbags. The studio also doubles as a gallery space in the evening, hosting pop-up events and occasional artist exhibitions. Ad Hoc, 1948 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago, 312-343-9991, chicagoadhoc.com
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PORTLAND
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Visiting the Portland Japanese Garden is a transformative experience. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
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COUNTER INTELLIGENCE Nomad.PDX serves up a tantalizing tasting menu. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
One can only patronize so many eateries on a trip to this decidedly foodie city, but Nomad.PDX better be on every visitor’s short list. The self-proclaimed “artistic think tank focused on revolutionizing the experience of fine dining” opened its doors last year to much fanfare after operating as a pop-up and underground supper club. The best seats in the house are at the chef’s counter, where unassuming Executive Chef Ryan Fox and his team serve up course after course of perfectly portioned, expertly crafted cuisine. The menu changes regularly and is vague enough that diners don’t know quite what they’re in for; it lists only key ingredients like uni, oyster, poached egg and black trumpet mushroom. Wine pairings are on point, and those craving a cocktail can enjoy intriguing libations from the acclaimed Ash Bar. The Oh, Snap! features local Aria gin, snap pea, mescal rinse and mint, while the Way We Burn combines coconut-washed rum, orange flower, clarified lime and honey. The eatery’s successful execution of its tasting menu has not gone unrecognized. In fact, prior to its debut, Nomad.PDX was dubbed one of 2017’s most exciting restaurant openings by Food & Wine magazine. These days, the reviews are consistently rave ones, and reservations are an absolute must. Nomad.PDX, 575 NE 24th Ave., Portland, Oregon, 503-206-4085, nomadpdx.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID ALVARADO/TRAVEL PORTLAND AND JORDAN FOX/RABBIT HOLE
Nestled in the West Hills, the Portland Japanese Garden offers a welcome respite from the city it overlooks. Established in 1963, it features eight different garden styles as well as an authentic teahouse across its 12 acres. It’s a place to “discard worldly thoughts and concerns, and see oneself as a small but integral part of the universe.” The garden’s history is as compelling as its flora. When it was conceived in the late 1950s, the goal was to forge a healing bond between Oregon and Japan after World War II. Revered landscape architect Takuma Tono of Tokyo Agricultural University was secured to design the space, at that time just 5.5 acres. He opted to highlight five different styles — an unusual approach — to represent the historical evolution of the Japanese garden. His creation has long been considered one of the most authentic gardens outside the island nation itself. The garden recently underwent a massive expansion centered around the development of a cultural village as designed by world-renowned architect Kengo Kuma. The new additions include a gallery, a library, a learning center and the Umami Café, a glass-walled eatery made for enjoying matcha and mochi while taking in the surrounding tranquil scenery. Portland Japanese Garden, 611 SW Kingston Ave., Portland, Oregon, 503-223-1321, japanesegarden.org
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE NINES
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TO THE NINES A downtown Portland hotel blends style and sustainability. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
Portland’s most stylish stay is ideally situated downtown in the historic Meier & Frank Building. The Nines is just steps from Pioneer Courthouse Square and within walking distance of great dining and shopping, like Nike’s flagship store and upscale mall Pioneer Place. The LEED silver-certified hotel emphasizes sustainability without sacrificing on style. The imposing terra-cotta structure was erected in 1909 to serve as the headquarters and flagship store for Meier & Frank, which was once heralded as the largest retailer west of the Mississippi River. The transformation into the Nines began in 2005, with an official debut in 2008. In fact, the hotel’s name is an homage to the shop’s reputation as a “beacon of dressed-to-the-nines fashion.” Following suit, the 331 guest rooms are glammed up with tufted leather headboards, blue velvet recamiers, crystal pendant lights and original art created by Pacific Northwest College of Art students. Bathrooms are stocked with products from Gilchrist & Soames’s BeeKind collection, which is formulated without parabens, phthalates or petrol-derived ingredients and supports University of California, Davis honeybee research. The exclusive Club Lounge features personalized concierge service as well as inventive food and drink presentations throughout the day. In-house eatery Departure boasts a can’t-be-beat rooftop patio and inspired Asian fusion cuisine from James Beard semifinalist Gregory Gourdet. And sprinkled throughout the hotel is an eclectic collection of local artwork as curated by former Andy Warhol confidante Paige Powell. The Nines, 525 SW Morrison St., Portland, Oregon, 877-229-9995, thenines.com
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Perfectly Planned
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DID MINNESOTA’S WHITE BEAR LAKE INSPIRE F. SCOTT FITZGERALD’S GREATEST NOVEL? B Y C H R I S C L AY T O N
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PHOTOGRAPHY © MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY/CORBIS/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES
Home X X X X X
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Feature
For me, that shadow is The Great Gatsby. You remember — the book we had to read in high school, the one about star-crossed lovers, American exceptionalism and 1920s drinking habits? Gatsby started shadowing me in senior English class, where I fell hard for its poetry and moody melodrama. It followed me through my twenties and into my thirties, at which point I realized that it’s less a doomed romance than a cautionary tale about desire and hard choices and the fact that everyone, no matter where you stand, must look into the void at some point and take stock. In other words, it’s a story about adulthood. I lost track of the book for a while, though I did see Baz Luhrmann’s film adaptation, which is basically a two-hour music video starring Leonardo DiCaprio’s angry eyebrows. Then, one day in 2016, the shadow re-emerged. My family and I had just moved to the east side of White Bear Lake, and while we were settling into our new community, someone casually mentioned that F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife, Zelda, used to hang out at the White Bear Yacht Club and in the surrounding Dellwood area. Like many lifelong Minnesotans, I knew of the writer’s deep St. Paul roots, but I had never heard about his connection to the iconic lake and the club that’s still in business today situated less than two miles from my house. Compelled by my inner fanboy and reporter’s spidey sense, I decided to dig deeper. In a dusty corner of the Internet, I came across a letter Fitzgerald sent editor Max Perkins from Dellwood in 1922. Scott and Zelda were near the peak of their fame at the time, drunken avatars of the Jazz Age who had danced naked in New York City water fountains and dined with the Churchills in London. But Fitz had yet to produce his greatest work. At the yacht club, he began outlining his third novel. In the letter to Perkins, he wrote that it would be set in “the middle west and New York of 1885 I think. It will concern less superlative beauties than I run to usually and will be centered on a small period of time. It will have a catholic element.” That’s not exactly how The Great Gatsby turned out, but the skeleton is there. Minnesota versus New York. The short, not-so-sweet timeline. Less superlative beauties, like Myrtle Wilson, the novel’s doomed mistress. Though well-known to Fitzgerald scholars, the letter made me wonder if, in obsessing over Gatsby’s Long Island parties and manic Manhattan energy, the experts had underestimated the influence of Dellwood and White Bear Lake. The book was set in the summer of 1922, after all. Are there other, less obvious connections? Is there a chance that this Great American Novel is, in some small way, a Minnesota lake novel? Am I a hubristic jerk to think I know better than the historians? “You can’t repeat the past,” notes Gatsby narrator Nick Carraway in one of the novel’s most famous scenes. To which the eponymous billionaire responds, “Can’t repeat the past? Why of course you can!” Now, we all know that’s not true — just ask Gatsby himself, whose misguided optimism proves to be his fatal flaw — but surely you can rethink the past, right?
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PHOTOGRAPHY © JEFF KRUEGER
MINNESOTA’S GREATEST F. SCOTT FITZGERALD HITS — PLUS A COUPLE B-SIDES FOR THE NERDS.
Thomas Boyd arrived at the two-story Colonial in Dellwood sometime in the afternoon. The young literary critic and a friend had left work early that day, driven from the stuffy St. Paul Daily News offices by the late August heat. On a whim, they’d grabbed a bottle of gin and motored out to White Bear Lake, kicking up dust as they passed pumpkin fields and farmhouses along the county road. When they reached Dellwood, they flagged down a laundry truck and asked the driver if he knew where they could find the famous writer who was renting a house in the area. He led them to a pretty summer cottage half a mile from the northeast corner of the lake. Boyd parked the car, grabbed the gin and walked up a brick pathway to the front door. “I’ll be down in a minute,” came a voice from inside. Boyd and his friend retired to the screen porch, and a moment later, there he was: F. Scott Fitzgerald, all of 24 at the time, dressed in robin’s egg blue pajamas and holding lemons and oranges to pair with the gin. Though Boyd had never met the author in person, Fitzgerald had sent him a letter earlier that year asking why the newspaper never reviewed his work. Boyd responded by becoming a super fan, and now here he was, face to face with the author in the summer of 1921. “Why, I thought you’d be wearing a frock coat and a long white beard,” said Fitzgerald, teasing the 23-year-old book reviewer. “And I thought you would be a baby with rouged lips,” Boyd shot back. They spent the rest of the afternoon riffing on everything from poet Carl Sandburg to World War I. Fitzgerald remained uncharacteristically sober. Boyd got good and tanked, and those hot, boozy hours must have made an impression, because he would eventually write four different articles about that day. “Scott Fitzgerald is a youth that American literature will have to reckon with,” he predicted in the August 28, 1921, edition of the Daily News.
481 LAUREL AVENUE, ST. PAUL Francis Scott Key Fitzgerald (what a name) was born on September 24, 1896, at his parents’ apartment. And, yes, he was named after the national-anthem lyricist, who happened to be a distant relative on his father’s side. This three-story structure is on the National Register of Historic Places and has been designated a Literary Landmark.
294 LAUREL AVENUE / 499, 509 AND 514 HOLLY AVENUE, ST. PAUL It’s easy to see where the writer got his wandering streak. Between 1908 and 1913, his family bounced around to various row houses in the Summit Hill area.
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Magazine of the North
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MONDADORI PORTFOLIO/MONDADORI PORTFOLIO VIA GETTY IMAGES
Nearly a century later, I walk up to that same Dellwood house and knock on the front door. The exterior looks nearly as it did in 1921, though the screen porch was swapped out years ago for a four-season addition. I half expect the ghost of Minnesota’s most famous literary son to answer, but instead I’m greeted by semi-famous Minnesota state Representative Matt Dean, whose family now lives here. He invites me in and points out the area where Fitz and Boyd would have met. It’s a sitting room now, but the traditional furnishings make it easy to imagine that 1921 happy hour. I ask Dean how he feels about the home’s Fitzgerald connection, and he responds in the most Minnesotan way possible: “Kinda neat.” It is kinda neat! Not only is that blue house off Highway 96 notable for being the site of the only extended interview Fitzgerald ever gave, but it’s one of the few tangible pieces of evidence we have from his often-overlooked White Bear period. After a quick stay in Zelda’s native Alabama, the nomadic couple moved north, spending August, September and part of October at the cottage. They returned to Dellwood a year later and rented an apartment at the White Bear Yacht Club for the better part of three months. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. To truly understand Fitzgerald’s time in Dellwood, you should know that White Bear is a lake of stories. It takes its name from a Dakota legend about a giant bear killed on Manitou, its only island. After white settlers drove out Native American inhabitants in the mid 1800s, the lake became a playground for upper-crust St. Paul residents who were drawn to its spring-fed waters and wooded lagoons. By the end of the century, resorts lined its western shores. Visitors arrived by train, among them Mark Twain, who wrote the following appreciation in his 1883 memoir Life on the Mississippi: “It is a lovely sheet of water. … There are a dozen minor summer resorts around about St. Paul and Minneapolis, but the White-bear Lake [sic] is the resort.” Other narratives aren’t nearly as flattering. In the 1930s, the lake was a hideout for Ma Barker and other gangsters. And later came the horrifying murder of three-year-old White Bear resident Dennis Jurgens by his adoptive mother, a case that made national headlines when she was prosecuted in the late 1980s. These stories and others sit on the bookshelves of the White Bear Lake Area Historical Society library. Or, more specifically, in a small research room that smells like cigarettes and musty attic. If you ask nicely, a staff member will help you find a large bound book filled with original copies of the area’s long-running weekly rag, the White Bear Press. Paging through yellowed 1922 editions of the paper one afternoon, I find a short item that reads, “Mr. and Mrs. F. Scott Fitzgerald, of St. Paul, moved to the White Bear Yacht Club this week, where they will remain during the summer months.” The news ran on June 1, 1922, in the publication’s Ripples Around the Lake section, an exceedingly polite gossip column that tracked the comings and goings of notable residents. For all the shenanigans the couple was rumored to have partaken in that summer, I’m surprised the four-line blurb is the only mention I can find of them.
94 DELLWOOD AVENUE, DELLWOOD As a teen, Fitzgerald visited friend Elizabeth Clarkson, who summered with her family at this Alpine-style lake home.
Before leaving the library, I ask the woman working that day why Fitzgerald still matters. “It’s the sentences,” she says. “In just a few words, he can bring you right there. He lulls you into this perfect place.”
IMAGERY PROVIDED BY DAVE PAGE
56 DELLWOOD AVENUE, DELLWOOD (WHITE BEAR YACHT CLUB) In desperate need of more ripples around the lake, I turn to Dave Page, historian and author of multiple books about the writer’s time in the Twin Cities. His latest is coffee-table tome F. Scott Fitzgerald in Minnesota, a glossy tour of sites that doubles as a biography. I skip past the St. Paul trivia (born there in 1896, returned with his family in 1908) and head straight for the chapter about White Bear. Page, bless the man, has done his homework. Fitzgerald’s White Bear story starts in his teenage years. Though his family always had money (they lived in a string of cushy Summit Avenue row houses), he ran with the über-rich — a lifelong habit that he wrestles with in all of his best work. And back in the 1910s, St. Paul’s über-rich summered at White Bear. Privatization of the lake was in full effect. The public still flocked to the amusement park in Mahtomedi, but many of the resorts had burned down and in their place stood enormous lake retreats. A teenage Fitzgerald spent time in some of these homes, including the Manitou Island cottage of hardware wholesaler Charles H. Bigelow, grandfather of Fitzgerald’s friend Alida. He also visited his friend (and crush) Elizabeth Clarkson at her parents’ chalet-style getaway in the exclusive new Dellwood settlement. In September of 1913, the Clarksons invited him out to the lake for dinner. Afterward, they all went down to the White Bear Yacht Club and watched a staging of Coward, a play the 17-year-old Fitzgerald had penned as a member of St. Paul’s Elizabethan Drama Club. That fall, Fitzgerald went off to Princeton, and, as far as I can tell, didn’t return to Dellwood until he and Zelda rented the two-story Colonial in 1921. The years between visits were dizzying for Fitzgerald. He graduated from college, joined the Army, met and dated a Southern belle who eventually dumped him because he didn’t have any money, and published a well-received debut novel,
When he wasn’t hanging out at private lake homes, a young Fitz swam, sailed and played tennis at the White Bear Yacht Club. Years later in the summer of 1922, he and wife Zelda moved into an apartment here and partied hard; some say they were kicked out for bad behavior. Sadly, that building burned down in 1937, though an American Colonial–style clubhouse was quickly built to replace it.
2279 MARSHALL AVENUE, ST. PAUL (TOWN & COUNTRY CLUB) While home on break from Princeton in 1915, the writer and his friends threw a party at the swanky Town & Country club. Chicago socialite Ginevra King was in attendance, and Fitz fell hard for her. Though she broke his heart, she would later inspire some of his most memorable female characters, including Daisy Buchanan in The Great Gatsby.
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Home X X X X X Feature
This Side of Paradise, that gave him some money and ultimately convinced the Southern belle to marry him. Cue the Champagne pop and big-band soundtrack. The author must have felt like a king returning to Dellwood. He had written the book and gotten the girl. And unlike his teenage visits, he was no longer someone’s plus-one in this land of summer privilege. Though Fitzgerald polished his next novel, The Beautiful and Damned, and wrote a couple short stories, he mostly drank. And drank. Writes Page in his book: “After one particularly boozy night, Scott forgot to veer right in his shared drive and ended up in the neighbors’ flower garden. Mr. Donahower awakened to discover an open-topped Pierce Arrow blocking his way, its famous driver fast asleep at the wheel.” The other juicy Fitzgerald story from the summer of ’21 is likely fictional. According to local lore, the cottage’s owner, Mackey Thompson, asked Scott and Zelda to leave in October after they caused a plumbing accident. Some say it was a burst pipe, though it could have been an overflowing sink or tub. When I visit the house, Matt Dean directs me to a flight of stairs leading up to the second floor. They’re warped, which he says could be proof of an incident that started in the bathroom at the top of the steps. In reality, the couple probably left on their own accord so the pregnant Zelda could give birth to daughter Scottie, their only child, in St. Paul. When the Fitzgeralds moved into the yacht club the following summer, they brought a nurse to look after the baby, which freed them up to swim and golf with friends like Charles Oscar Kalman and Alexandra Robertson, who had a summer place in Dellwood. The couple was also tight with Lucius Pond Ordway, one of the original partners in 3M, and his wife, Jessie. Stories swirl around that summer like wind off the lake: Sinclair Lewis drank the couple under the table one night. Scott performed a Scottish sword dance with his putter on a golf green. Zelda passed out during dinner and had to be carried back to their apartment. These could all be myths, but somebody smarter than me once said that a myth is actually a poetic telling of a basic truth. Speaking of truth, thanks to that letter Fitz sent Perkins, we know with some certainty that the author started to think about his third novel in the summer of 1922. I call Page to needle him about deeper White Bear–Gatsby correlations. “Something at Dellwood inspired Fitzgerald to do an Edith Wharton–like New York novel,” he tells me. “But what it is, I don’t know.” He mentions Mary Jane LaVigne, another Fitzgerald scholar and supposed expert on the Dellwood period, but he says she probably won’t talk. And he’s right. LaVigne is almost comically guarded when I get her on the phone. She won’t even let me record the call. But I get it; historians can be territorial with their findings. And if she’s got a Fitzgerald scoop, why would she share it with an outsider like myself? I start to worry that my quest to find Gatsby at the lake is as foolish as his plan to win back Daisy Buchanan after all those years.
In So We Read On, Maureen Corrigan’s excellent deep dive of Gatsby, she writes, “Gatsby’s magic emanates not only from its powerhouse poetic style — in which ordinary American language becomes unearthly — but from the authority with which it nails who we want to be as Americans. Not who we are; who we want to be. It’s
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GATSBY’S
PHOTOGRAPHY © JEFF KRUEGER
599 SUMMIT AVENUE, ST. PAUL
that wanting that runs through every page of Gatsby, making it our Greatest American Novel.” Well, Maureen, I’ve got a serious case of the wantings. Maybe what I want is some ownership over Fitzgerald. Isn’t that what we always do with our heroes: project our hopes and fears onto their work in a borderline possessive way? My favorite scene in The Great Gatsby takes place at Tom Buchanan’s secret love shack in Manhattan. In chapter two, he and mistress Myrtle Wilson throw an impromptu party at the apartment, and at one point narrator Carraway gives his drunken take on the scene: “High over the city our line of yellow windows must have contributed their share of human secrecy to the casual watcher in the darkening streets, and I was him too, looking up and wondering. I was within and without, simultaneously enchanted and repelled by the inexhaustible variety of life.” Like so many Fitzgerald passages, this one is a layer cake. On its surface, it’s drunken poetry. Who hasn’t had one cocktail too many and marveled at the overwhelming beauty of it all? But Fitzgerald is also tipping his hand, reminding us of his lifelong struggle to fit in while also wanting to check out. This insider-outsider dance hits home. I live in a relatively modest stucco home on the non-lake side of Mahtomedi, and I’d be lying if I told you I wasn’t a little jealous of the residents of the much larger, much nicer houses that sit along the water. At the same time, I’m a big proponent of the old “money doesn’t buy happiness” adage — though that’s easy to say when you live someplace where nearly everyone is well-off. (First-world problems, right? Sigh.) Unsure where to turn next, I go back to my notes, looking for clues, a sign, anything. Everyone I’ve talked to thus far shares a love of Fitzgerald’s writing at the line level, from the woman at that White Bear library to Robert Steven Williams, a filmmaker who argues that Westport, Connecticut, also deserves some credit for inspiring Gatsby. (Scott and Zelda spent the summer of 1920 there; Williams claims to have proof that they stayed in a small house next to a towering mansion owned by a mysterious billionaire.) Maybe the clues have been on the page this whole time. I comb Gatsby once more for any direct references to Dellwood or White Bear. Is the robin’s egg blue uniform worn by Gatsby’s chauffeur a nod to the pajamas Fitzgerald donned when he met Boyd, the book reviewer? What about in chapter six, when Carraway gets oddly
Fitzgerald’s parents lived in this three-story apartment building, known for its grand tower, from 1918 to 1919. After college and a stint in the Army, he moved in with them and completed his debut novel, This Side of Paradise. The apartment survives today thanks to its inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places.
374 SELBY AVENUE, ST. PAUL (W.A. FROST) Before it was a restaurant with one of the best patios in town, W.A. Frost was a pharmacy. Fitz often stopped here with friends.
14 DELLWOOD ROAD, DELLWOOD Scott and Zelda rented this summer cottage in August 1921. Instead of writing, he mostly drank, and one night he crashed his car in his neighbor’s flower bed. Legend has it that their landlord evicted the couple that October after they caused a plumbing accident.
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Feature
specific about the date — July 5, 1922? Fitzgerald would have been at White Bear at the time, but only history knows if anything important happened beyond, perhaps, a post–Fourth of July hangover. I turn to other texts. Somehow I’d missed a short story called “Winter Dreams,” written just before Fitzgerald left White Bear in September of 1922, and years later described by the author as “a sort of first draft of the Gatsby idea.” The story contains obvious nods to White Bear and Gatsby. It takes place on Black Bear Lake. It concerns a proto–Don Draper who chases the idea of perfection as embodied by an unattainable beauty. Fitzgerald scholars know “Winter Dreams” well, yet they tend to get bogged down by the story’s thematic similarities to Gatsby. But if we accept that the story is a first take on his masterpiece and at the same time clearly based on his White Bear Lake period, then shouldn’t we also compare nonfictional 1922 Dellwood to fictional 1922 Long Island? Look who Dellwood attracted back then: Old money. New money. Artists. Touring vaudeville performers. It’s just the kind of sociocultural jumble you’d expect at one of Gatsby’s epic pool parties. In a book about the history of White Bear Lake’s east side, historian Paul Clifford Larson describes a fledgling Dellwood as having a pronounced East Coast vibe, noting that an early iteration of the White Bear Yacht Club looked like an Adirondack lodge. He also writes that Dellwood made yachting culture the center of residents’ social and recreational lives, similar to “many resort settlements on the Atlantic seaboard.” Larson doesn’t state it outright, but Dellwood circa 1922 sure sounds a lot like Long Island on the lake. Finally, look at the geography. White Bear Lake has two distinct features that have been occupied by the affluent for more than a century and are given prominent placement in “Winter Dreams”: Manitou Island to the west and the peninsula to the east. Looking at a map of the lake, it’s not a stretch to think that these landmasses could be rough precursors of East Egg and West Egg, the fictional Long Island communities in Gatsby. OK, so “Winter Dreams” isn’t quite the smoking gun I was looking for. It doesn’t prove that Fitzgerald’s 1922 Dellwood stay is the most important summer vacation in literary history. But it’s something better. It’s the green light at the end of Daisy’s dock. It’s hope. It’s something to build on. (Your move, historians!) Near the end of winter, I drive onto Manitou Island. Technically, I’m trespassing; it’s a gated community with signs warning the plebes to stay out. But I press on in my crappy minivan, past old estates and new McMansions. Near the south end of the island, I look out across the water. The lake is still frozen, though the top layer of snow has nearly melted. About three-quarters of a mile off sits the peninsula. There are no docks out yet, of course, just beautiful home after beautiful home. One of them is the old Read cottage, where Fitzgerald sometimes stayed as a teenager. Apparently he liked to sit on the big, airy front porch and daydream. If you squint from my vantage, you can picture him there, a young man with so many stories ahead of him.
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79 WESTERN AVENUE, ST. PAUL (COMMODORE HOTEL)
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SCIENCE HISTORY IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO AND © JEFF KRUEGER
Just before the birth of their daughter, Scott and Zelda decamped for the fancy Commodore Hotel. Today, the building houses a celebrated bar and restaurant, making it one of the few Fitzgerald sites open to the public.
626 GOODRICH AVENUE, ST. PAUL When baby Scottie entered the scene, her parents decided a jazz hotel with a speakeasy in the basement wasn’t the best place to raise a child. So they rented part of this large Victorian home that was owned by a friend’s relatives.
420 SUMMIT AVENUE, ST. PAUL (UNIVERSITY CLUB) Yet another favorite haunt during Scott and Zelda’s St. Paul heyday, this 105-year-old club still stands today. Did the author really carve his initials into the bar here? That’s members-only information, old sport.
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BATHROOMS: 8
$5,995,000
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
HIGH-END, HIGH-TOUCH, DOWN-TO-EARTH BRUCE BIRKELAND HAS BEEN A LEADING TWIN CITIES REALTOR FOR 30 YEARS, WITH 1,000+ HOMES SOLD AND $1 BILLION IN LUXURY HOME SALES.
2 6 5 0 B U R N H A M R O A D MINNEAPOLIS
6 4 2 9 I N D I A N H I L L S R O A D EDINA
Glass-walled contemporary with soaring interior volume and sprawling views on Cedar Lake.
Majestic Italian stone villa. Soaring interior volume, owner’s wing, elevator and pool.
BEDROOMS: 3
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 3
$1,450,000
BATHROOMS: 9
$2,950,000
7 0 5 5 T U R N E R R O A D INDEPENDENCE
9 3 5 E . L A K E S T R E E T, # 2 0 2 WAYZATA
19-plus-acre estate in the heart of horse country. Open floor plan and walls of windows.
Luxurious residence in heart of downtown Wayzata. Large windows and exceptional finishes.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 2
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,195,000
BATHROOMS: 3
$1,399,000
2 5 4 5 H U N T I N G T O N A V E N U E ST. LOUIS PARK
2 8 2 5 L I T T L E O R C H A R D W A Y ORONO
Landmark contemporary estate with walls of glass, world-class finishes, and guesthouse.
European-inspired estate with luxurious owner’s suite, theater, guesthouse and more.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5
$4,495,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
BATHROOMS: 10
$11,900,000
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4 3 4 9 / 4 3 5 1 A L D R I C H A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS
2 0 0 PA R K A V E N U E , # 1 1 3 MINNEAPOLIS
Classic duplex with spectacular architecturally renovated owner’s unit on upper 2 floors.
Large 2-level end unit with great entertaining space, private walled garden and patio.
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 3
BEDROOMS: 3
BATHROOMS: 3
$950,000
FRAN AND BARB DAVIS
FRAN AND BARB DAVIS
612-925-8408 | FDAVIS@CBBURNET.COM
612-925-8408 | FDAVIS@CBBURNET.COM
1 6 4 0 K E N W O O D PA R K W A Y MINNEAPOLIS
1 3 3 0 W I L L O W B R O O K D R I V E MEDINA
Exceptional architect-designed townhouse with 10-foot ceilings overlooking Kenwood Park.
Stunning Charles Cudd custom-built home. Impeccably maintained on 4.7 private acres.
BEDROOMS: 3
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,345,000
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5
$2,495,000
BOB KESSLER AND JOSE KOSAR
BOB KESSLER AND JOSE KOSAR
612-386-6148 | RKESSLER@CBBURNET.COM
612-386-6148 | RKESSLER@CBBURNET.COM
3 2 2 0 W. C A L H O U N PA R K W A Y, # 3 0 2 MINNEAPOLIS
4 1 4 7 B E A R D A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS
Stunning Lake Calhoun condo with sweeping views of the lake and city lights.
Stunning Linden Hills new construction with high-end finishes just steps to 2 lakes.
BEDROOMS: 3
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BATHROOMS: 2
$799,900
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,325,000
DAVID AZBILL GROUP
DAVID AZBILL GROUP
612-925-8402 | DAVID@DAVIDAZBILLGROUP.COM
612-925-8402 | DAVID@DAVIDAZBILLGROUP.COM
Magazine of the North
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
5800 LONG BRAKE TRAIL EDINA Quiet cul-de-sac setting on wildlife pond. Rare main-level living meticulously maintained with 5,500+ gracious square feet. Walk out to large backyard with park-like setting. Enjoy the feeling of being with nature yet within minutes of shopping, restaurants and the Minneapolis international airport. BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5 $925,000
MARYANNE GROBE
612-308-2090 MGROBE@CBBURNET.COM
2600 SPIRIT KNOB ROAD WOODLAND This Frank Forster–designed French Normandy home sits on 360 feet of west-facing Lake Minnetonka shoreline. This sprawling estate includes 2 acres of beautiful landscaping and architectural wonder. From the cobblestone drive and ivy-covered all-brick exterior to the vaulted great room with hand-hewn timbers, you’ll feel as though you’ve been transported to the European countryside. BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5 $5,750,000
PATRICIA WALL AND JIM SEABOLD
612-791-0717 PATRICIA@BOLDMARKETING.COM 651-276-8555 JIM@BOLDMARKETING.COM
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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1 4 1 0 S U M M I T A V E N U E ST. PAUL
8 9 W O O D L A N D C I R C L E EDINA
Summit Avenue Tudor on oversize lot with full front porch, classic details and 3rd-floor owner’s suite.
Minnehaha Creek on .54 acre. Classic 1954 walkout rambler with 3,000 square feet on each level.
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 4
$895,000
BEDROOMS: 5
WARNER GROUP
WARNER GROUP 651-983-4863 | LKWARNER@CBBURNET.COM
4 9 0 6 F R E M O N T A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS
6 0 1 6 L E S L E E L A N E EDINA
Beautifully updated with bright, open public rooms near Minnehaha Creek and Lake Harriet.
Spectacular newer home with main-floor master. Romantic porch with woodburning fireplace.
BATHROOMS: 3
$649,000
BEDROOMS: 4
$2,350,000
STEVE SCHMITZ
612-805-7412 | RWBOWE@CBBURNET.COM
952-484-6045 | STEVESCHMITZ@SELLSHOUSES.COM
1 7 8 3 C O L F A X A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS
2 6 0 1 E U C L I D P L A C E MINNEAPOLIS
Classic Colonial Revival in Lowry Hill.
Elegant Italian Renaissance Revival steps from Lake of the Isles.
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,250,000 BEDROOMS: 6
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BATHROOMS: 4
RUTH WHITNEY BOWE
BEDROOMS: 6
Artful Living
$1,259,900
651-983-4863 | LKWARNER@CBBURNET.COM
BEDROOMS: 3
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BATHROOMS: 6
PRICE UPON REQUEST
JIMMY FOGEL AND TASH CASSO
JIMMY FOGEL AND TASH CASSO
612-889-2000 | JIMMY@CBBURNET.COM
612-889-2000 | JIMMY@CBBURNET.COM
Magazine of the North
COL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
THE BRAMAN BROTHERS 612-643-5533 | INFO@BRAMANBROTHERS.COM
660 HIDDEN CREEK TRAIL, M E N D O TA H E I G H T S
ARCHITECTURAL GEM ON 1.25 PRIVATE ACRES Custom designed and built by Tom Mihm in 2004. Situated on 1.25 private wooded acres. Meticulously landscaped front and back yards with dramatic outdoor lighting. Luxurious main-level living with generous spaces throughout. No detail overlooked. Custom millwork and high-end finishes including red birch floors and imported African Mahoganies. New Marvin Ultimate windows with hidden screens. Walkout lower level features large 2nd great room, guest rooms, home gym, high-tech media room, greenhouse/hot tub room and more. 5,700+ square feet of perfection. BEDROOMS: 4 $1,495,000
BATHROOMS: 4
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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2 1 5 C H I C A G O A V E N U E N . WAYZATA
4 4 0 W. PA D D O C K C I R C L E MEDINA
Wayzata village living at its best. Open floor plan and private, fenced backyard.
Estate-like setting with high-end detailing and updating. Gourmet’s delight kitchen.
BEDROOMS: 5
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BEDROOMS: 6
BATHROOMS: 6
$1,299,000
MEREDITH HOWELL
MEREDITH HOWELL 952-476-3692 | MHOWELL@CBBURNET.COM
1 7 8 7 5 B R E E Z Y P O I N T R O A D WOODLAND
3 5 9 4 N O R T H O M E R O A D DEEPHAVEN
Sought-after cottage-style home just across the bay from Wayzata. Gracious open floor plan.
Just inside the Northome gates on a private wooded lot. Elegant entertaining spaces surround the pool.
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,550,000
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,875,000
MEREDITH HOWELL
MEREDITH HOWELL
952-476-3692 | MHOWELL@CBBURNET.COM
952-476-3692 | MHOWELL@CBBURNET.COM
7 3 6 5 H I G H W A Y 1 2 INDEPENDENCE
1 4 9 2 H U N T E R D R I V E MEDINA
A most magical country estate just west of Maple Plain. Every view is captivating.
Private Mooney Lake estate with indoor and outdoor pools, tennis court, indoor sport court and more.
BEDROOMS: 4
Artful Living
$1,075,000
952-476-3692 | MHOWELL@CBBURNET.COM
BEDROOMS: 5
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BATHROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 8
$1,950,000
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 9
$4,975,000
MEREDITH HOWELL
MEREDITH HOWELL AND MARK SCHILL
952-476-3692 | MHOWELL@CBBURNET.COM
952-476-3692 | MHOWELL@CBBURNET.COM
Magazine of the North
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
2410 OAKLAND ROAD MINNETONKA Meticulously manicured, the Birdsong Estate is privately located near the intersection of I-494 and I-394. Beautifully sculpted and dotted with mature trees and ponds. Easy access to Wayzata and downtown Minneapolis. Ready for development or to be purchased as a singular estate with a unique Lloyd Wright–designed home (son of Frank Lloyd Wright). BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5 $4,700,000
MEREDITH HOWELL AND JEFF MARTINEAU
952-476-3692 MHOWELL@CBBURNET.COM 952-210-2626 JMARTINEAU@CBBURNET.COM
1400 BRACKETTS POINT ROAD ORONO Steeped in history and lovingly restored, Southways (the Pillsbury Estate) is one of the last remaining icons of Lake Minnetonka. Sweeping views both east and west across Bracketts Point and Lake Minnetonka. Close proximity to Wayzata. Inquire with listing agents about the adjacent buildable lot. BEDROOMS: 7
BATHROOMS: 13 $7,900,000
MEREDITH HOWELL AND BRIAN BENSON
952-476-3692 MHOWELL@CBBURNET.COM 612-227-8629 BKBENSON@CBBURNET.COM
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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DREW HUELER
EXCEPTIONAL OUTCOMES FOR
6 1 2 - 7 0 1 - 3 1 2 4 | G A H U E L E R @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
DISCERNING CLIENTS
2 1 0 9 I N D I A N R O A D W. MINNETONKA
7 6 0 8 P E LT I E R L A K E D R I V E LINO LAKES
Scandinavian contemporary. Great proximity to all local amenities. Wayzata schools.
Perfect family home beautifully remodeled in 2018 with west-facing recreational lakeshore.
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$500,000
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$749,000
1 2 3 0 0 R I V E R V I E W R O A D EDEN PRAIRIE
16 acres of natural beauty and breathtaking views of the Minnesota River Valley.
Serene, open-concept estate with commanding views over Minnesota River Valley. BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 3
PRICE UPON REQUEST
4 3 0 L A F A Y E T T E A V E N U E EXCELSIOR
3 6 1 9 L E R I V E W A Y CHASKA
Downtown Excelsior lakeshore at its finest. Enjoy breathtaking sunsets over Lower Lake.
Stunning custom home with 150 feet of south-facing lakeshore. Resort-like pool and backyard.
BEDROOMS: 6
Artful Living
BATHROOMS: 4
X X R I V E R V I E W R O A D EDEN PRAIRIE
$1,000,000
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BATHROOMS: 4
PRICE UPON REQUEST
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 7
$1,995,000
COL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
CINDY REDMOND
REAL-ESTATE WARRIOR. EXPERIENCED. TRUSTWORTHY.
612-850-7015 | CINDY@CINDYREDMOND.COM
1 9 5 C R Y S TA L C R E E K R O A D ORONO
2 1 4 B Y R O N D A L E A V E N U E WAYZATA
Beautiful cottage home by Pillar with sensational curb appeal. 5 acres. Orono schools.
Beautiful new villa by Wooddale Builders. Walk to vibrant downtown Wayzata. Move-in ready.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 3
BATHROOMS: 4
PRICE UPON REQUEST
BATHROOMS: 3
$985,000
4 7 7 8 D U N I B A R R I D G E MINNETONKA
1 2 3 0 0 R I V E R V I E W R O A D EDEN PRAIRIE
Incredible Lecy-built home with open floor plan, outdoor sport court and Minnetonka schools.
Magnificent charmer surrounded by nature with acreage on river bluff. Move-in ready.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5
PRICE UPON REQUEST
BATHROOMS: 3
PRICE UPON REQUEST
3 6 1 9 L E R I V E W A Y CHASKA
3 7 0 F E R N D A L E R O A D W. WAYZATA
Denali custom build on 1.5 acres and 150 feet of recreational Lake Bavaria shoreline.
Stylized, cutting-edge home with resort-style backyard. Walk to downtown Wayzata.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 7
$1,995,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
BATHROOMS: 5
$3,349,000
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MIKE STEADMAN 6 1 2 - 2 9 6 - 0 9 0 0 | M B S T E A D M A N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
4205 WILD MEADOWS DRIVE MEDINA Private setting. Home backs up to 200 acres of protected land throughout Wild Meadows neighborhood. Formal and informal spaces, high-end finishes, and amazing lower level. BEDROOMS: 5 $974,900
BATHROOMS: 7
17254 62ND AVENUE N. MAPLE GROVE Stunning custom-built 2016 Creek Hill home in secluded Whistling Pines neighborhood with pool. High-end finishes and expansive spaces with sport court. Wayzata schools. BEDROOMS: 6 $1,299,000
BATHROOMS: 5
5445 BLACK OAKS LANE N. PLYMOUTH Professionally built, artfully designed New England–style home with a modern vibe in prestigious O’Donnell Woods. Great entertainer home with outdoor kitchen, pool and spa. BEDROOMS: 5 $1,595,000
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BATHROOMS: 5
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
3 4 1 R A M S E Y R O A D W. WAYZATA Built by one of Minneapolis’s founding families, this completely remastered 1949 estate sits high at the end of a wandering private drive inside Harrington Gates. BEDROOMS: 6
BATHROOMS: 8 $2,995,000
DECKER AND BONNIE VELIE
612-747-5097 DECKER.VELIE@CBBURNET.COM 612-964-7865 BJVELIE@CBBURNET.COM
19680 LAKEVIEW AVENUE DEEPHAVEN Enjoy expansive views of Lower Lake from this magical setting on Grandview Point in Cottagewood. Stunning newer lake home with main-floor owner’s suite. Minnetonka schools. BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5 $3,995,000
BETTY VOGT
612-669-4231 BVOGT@CBBURNET.COM
9 9 0 H E R I TA G E L A N E ORONO Tanager Estates features this luxurious traditional custom home by Stonewood. Property-only option priced at $2.6 million with 3.46 private acres, 205 feet of shoreline and expansive views. BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 6 $4,775,000
BONNIE VELIE AND MIKE STEADMAN
612-964-7865 BJVELIE@CBBURNET.COM 612-296-0900 MBSTEADMAN@CBBURNET.COM
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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JEFFREY DEWING 6 1 2 - 5 9 7 - 0 4 2 4 | J D E W I N G @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
1 1 6 9 8 C E D A R PA S S MINNETONKA
4 9 5 7 I S L A N D V I E W D R I V E MOUND
Incredibly updated with an open floor plan, high-end finishes and natural-light-filled spaces.
Stunning like-new Lake Minnetonka retreat with high-end finishes and south-facing views.
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
PRICE UPON REQUEST
1 8 6 4 0 S A I N T M E L L I O N P L A C E EDEN PRAIRIE
1 4 9 5 M E D I N A R O A D MEDINA
Gorgeous home with beautiful architectural details. Serene 1.28-acre setting in Bearpath.
Impeccably built home with top-of-the-line finishes. 24+ private acres. Orono schools.
BEDROOMS: 5
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BATHROOMS: 6
$1,149,000
BEDROOMS: 6
BATHROOMS: 7
$1,599,999
2 1 2 2 P O R T I C O G R E E N MINNETONKA
2 6 5 0 N O R T H V I E W D R I V E MINNETRISTA
Beautifully designed and maintained executive residence with modern finishes and wetland views.
Stunning Whaletail Lake estate with high-end finishes, guesthouse and 975+ feet of shoreline.
BEDROOMS: 4
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BATHROOMS: 5
$1,649,900
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 6
$3,575,000
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
ELLEN DEHAVEN 9 5 2 - 4 7 6 - 3 6 4 6 | E D E H AV E N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
4 3 0 F E R N D A L E R O A D W. WAYZATA Hidden Ferndale luxury estate with exquisite custom finishes throughout. Set on 2.61 acres with commanding southerly views of 200 feet of prime lakeshore. Rare opportunity. BEDROOMS: 6
BATHROOMS: 15 $8,995,000
3580 NORTHOME ROAD DEEPHAVEN Truly a rare offering. A highly unique, epic and landmark estate. 3.5 private acres, 250 feet of west-facing lower lakeshore, and spectacular guesthouse and boathouse. BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 11 $7,395,000
2 8 6 5 L I T T L E O R C H A R D WAY ORONO Idyllic Orono lakeshore estate. Inviting, open, light-filled spaces perfect for entertaining. Sweeping lawn, gardens, huge patio and deck enhance the lakeside experience. BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 7 $5,995,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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STICKNEY REAL ESTATE 9 5 2 - 4 7 6 - 3 6 9 4 | G S T I C K N E Y @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
1 0 0 3 R D A V E N U E S . , # 4 0 6 MINNEAPOLIS
2 4 0 3 H I G H O V E R T R A I L CHANHASSEN
Stunning unit in the Carlyle with upscale finishes, 12-foot ceilings, den and private balcony.
Beautiful like-new home with an open floor plan. Quiet cul-de-sac setting.
BEDROOMS: 2
BATHROOMS: 2
$565,000
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$774,900
1 0 6 0 6 S O N O M A R I D G E EDEN PRAIRIE
2 1 7 2 H O M E S T E A D T R A I L MEDINA
Exquisite home with many upgrades and amenities, floor-to-ceiling windows, and gourmet kitchen.
Gorgeous countryside retreat with high-end finishes, an open floor plan and 21 private acres.
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$925,000
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,999,000
2 8 0 3 6 W O O D S I D E R O A D SHOREWOOD 2 3 2 8 H U N T I N G T O N P O I N T R O A D W. MINNETONKA BEACH Breathtaking Steiner & Koppelman home overlooking 175-feet of west-facing Lake Minnetonka shoreline. BEDROOMS: 4
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BATHROOMS: 4
$3,150,000
Incredibly built and maintained masterpiece with 200 feet of premier southwest-facing lakeshore. BEDROOMS: 6
BATHROOMS: 11
$4,395,000
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
JOHN F. ADAMS 6 1 2 - 7 2 0 - 4 8 2 7 | J A D A M S @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
5 4 4 R I C E S T R E E T E . WAYZATA
2 4 0 M I N N E T O N K A A V E N U E S . , # 3 0 4 WAYZATA
Built by Landschute with timeless details, 2+ bedroom suites, elevator, rooftop deck and lake views.
New-construction boutique condominium built by John Kraemer & Sons. Easy walk to 20+ restaurants.
BEDROOMS: 2+
BEDROOMS: 2+
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,895,000
BATHROOMS: 3
$2,095,000
3 0 5 6 H I G H L A N D B O U L E V A R D MOUND
2 8 1 2 0 B O U L D E R B R I D G E D R I V E SHOREWOOD
Historic estate with a picturesque speakeasy, a boathouse, 191 feet of lakeshore and 1.23 acres.
Private 4-acre Grand View Lodge–like estate with incredible entertaining spaces indoors and out.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 7
BATHROOMS: 3
$1,895,000
BATHROOMS: 9
$3,995,000
3 3 2 0 R O B I N S O N S B A Y R O A D DEEPHAVEN
6 8 6 F E R N D A L E R O A D W. WAYZATA
Built by Landschute on a .81-acre setting with 100 feet of west-facing lakeshore and a sandy beach.
Commanding water views and 150 feet of south-facing lakeshore. Sited just 45 feet from the water’s edge.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5
$3,995,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
BATHROOMS: 8
$4,695,000
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GREGG LARSEN 6 1 2 - 7 1 9 - 4 4 7 7 | G L A R S E N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
3 7 8 0 B A Y S I D E R O A D ORONO
2 3 1 8 T A M A R A C K D R I V E MEDINA
Recently renewed home in Orono on 1.5 acres with water views of Stubbs Bay. Orono schools.
Private estate setting in Medina. 10-acre lot with marshland views. Orono schools.
BEDROOMS: 3
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BEDROOMS: 3
BATHROOMS: 3
$799,900
3 9 3 5 C O U N T Y R O A D 4 4 MINNETRISTA
Pristine Baycliffe home sited on park-like lot. Large entertaining spaces inside and out.
Lake Minnetonka building site with 170 feet of west-facing lakeshore. Use your own builder.
$1,249,900
$899,000
1 0 6 5 B A Y S I D E L A N E MINNETRISTA
2 5 5 L A K E V I E W A V E N U E TONKA BAY
Beautiful soft contemporary home with lakeside pool and long, southerly views of Jennings Bay.
Stunning lakeshore home in Tonka Bay. 125 feet of shoreline with a true sand beach.
BEDROOMS: 4
Artful Living
$799,900
6 4 1 5 T H O R N B E R R Y C U R V E EXCELSIOR
BEDROOMS: 5
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BATHROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 6
$1,999,900
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$2,599,000
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
UNPARALLELED PROFESSIONAL REPRESENTATION
ERIC AND SHARLA STAFFORD 9 5 2 - 4 7 0 - 2 5 7 5 | I N F O @ S TA F F O R D FA M I LY R E A LT O R S . C O M
2 9 1 8 P E L I C A N P O I N T C I R C L E MOUND
2 8 5 9 G A L E R O A D WOODLAND
Enjoy main-level, maintenance-free living with lake views and dock on Lake Minnetonka.
A Sid Rebers–built center-stair Colonial nestled on a private 2-acre lot in Woodland.
BEDROOMS: 3
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 3
$1,095,000
BATHROOMS: 4
$899,000
2 2 7 5 G O L D P O I N T VICTORIA
9 9 6 0 D E E R B R O O K D R I V E CHANHASSEN
From pillar to post, a combination of beauty and quality on a premier lot in Watermark.
A beautifully updated in-town estate home on 6.8 private acres with a saltwater pool.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$939,000
BATHROOMS: 5
$995,000
6 6 2 4 A L D E R W A Y CHANHASSEN
1 4 5 0 H U N T E R D R I V E MEDINA
An executive rambler equipped with high-end fit and finishes just minutes from Excelsior.
A stunning home on a private, park-like setting with pond, stream and gardens on 4.5 acres.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,050,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
BATHROOMS: 6
$1,299,000
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2 0 0 5 Q U E E N A V E N U E S . MINNEAPOLIS
1 9 6 1 5 M A N O R R O A D DEEPHAVEN
Unique Kenwood opportunity. Completely reimagined and stunningly executed renovation.
Masterpiece of the unexpected. Harmonious blend of historic elements and visionary design.
BEDROOMS: 4
•
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,525,000
IAN AND GARY PETERSEN
IAN AND GARY PETERSEN 612-910-6005 | IJPETERSEN@CBBURNET.COM
1 3 6 0 F R E N C H C R E E K D R I V E ORONO
1 4 8 7 S H O R E L I N E D R I V E ORONO
Sophisticated, updated and fresh. Brick 2-story with a great yard in coveted French Creek.
Breathtaking views from a rare Browns Bay location. Open plan with stunning details.
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,695,000
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5
$2,595,000
GARY AND IAN PETERSEN
GARY AND IAN PETERSEN
952-451-0284 | GARYPETERSEN@CBBURNET.COM
952-451-0284 | GARYPETERSEN@CBBURNET.COM
1 6 5 C R I S T O F O R I C I R C L E ORONO
5 2 0 1 K E L L O G G A V E N U E EDINA
Orono schools. Private setting with open, sun-filled rooms. Green geothermal infrastrucure.
Price reduced. Walk to 50th & France. Meticulously renovated on a double lot.
BEDROOMS: 5
Artful Living
$975,000
612-910-6005 | IJPETERSEN@CBBURNET.COM
BEDROOMS: 5
148
BATHROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,190,000
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,950,000
ELLEN PHELPS
ELLEN PHELPS
612-750-7555 | EPHELPS@CBBURNET.COM
612-750-7555 | EPHELPS@CBBURNET.COM
Magazine of the North
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
INTEGRITY. KNOWLEDGE. EXPERIENCE.
KRISTI WEINSTOCK THE WEINSTOCK GROUP 6 1 2 - 3 0 9 - 8 3 3 2 | K D W E I N S T O C K @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
1 8 3 3 4 K Y L I E C O U R T MINNETONK A
1 8 6 6 4 M E L R O S E C H A S E EDEN PRAIRIE
Stunning custom-built home situated on a private cul-de-sac with lovely wetland views.
Custom-built home by L. Cramer in Bearpath with expansive views of the 12th fairway.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$995,000
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,185,000
6 9 3 5 L U C Y R I D G E L A N E CHANHASSEN
5 3 5 0 Y E L L O W S T O N E T R A I L MINNETRISTA
Exciting home with modern architecture, wonderful spaces and views. Access to Lake Lucy.
Beautiful custom home by Denali offers deeded access and a boat slip on Lake Minnetonka.
BEDROOMS: 6
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 6
$1,325,000
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,399,000
1 9 4 0 0 A Z U R E R O A D DEEPHAVEN
2 1 1 2 0 E X C E L S I O R B O U L E V A R D GREENWOOD
Nantucket-like views from this exceptional lakeside retreat offering main-level living.
Sandy beach with amazing views of St. Albans Bay. Walking distance to downtown Excelsior.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 3
BATHROOMS: 4
$2,150,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
BATHROOMS: 5
$2,199,000
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ZINN FAMILY REALTORS 9 5 2 - 4 7 4 - 4 4 4 4 | C Z I N N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
2 7 9 8 5 S M I T H T O W N R O A D SHOREWOOD
6 4 1 5 L A N D I N G S C O U R T EXCELSIOR
Luxe finishes and extraordinary craftsmanship make this home feel like new construction.
Rich main-level living on premier lot in executive neighborhood of Minnewashta Landings.
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,049,000
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,175,000
7 9 0 P L E A S A N T V I E W R O A D CHANHASSEN
5 1 7 5 Q U E E N S C I R C L E GREENWOOD
Christmas Lake offers an up-north experience less than 30 minutes from downtown Minneapolis.
Large lakeside lawn with south-facing grade-A shoreline on St. Albans Bay.
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,690,000
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,850,000
2 1 2 9 0 E X C E L S I O R B O U L E V A R D GREENWOOD
5 7 9 0 C H R I S T M A S L A K E P O I N T SHOREWOOD
Sweeping views over St. Albans Bay with 6,000 finished square feet of living space and 70 feet of lakeshore.
2+ acres with 600 feet of sandy lakeshore and a 300-degree view of close-in Christmas Lake.
BEDROOMS: 6
150
ZINN SOLD MINE
Artful Living
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BATHROOMS: 5
$1,950,000
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5
$4,350,000
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
KYLE HUNT 6 1 2 - 3 6 9 - 2 8 3 6 | K Y L E . H U N T @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
4205 CHIMO E. DEEPHAVEN Beautiful wooded 1.34-acre setting on cul-de-sac with deeded lake access on Carson Bay, including dock and sandy beach. Wonderfully detailed classic Tudor family home with exceptional spaces to entertain and large indoor sport court. Level yard off generous stone terrace. Open porch with auto screens and stone fireplace. Nearby access to walking trail. Minnetonka schools. BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 4 $2,095,000
5135/5115 WEEKS ROAD GREENWOOD Spectacular views on prime south-facing St. Albans Bay homesites. Lot 1 offers .77 acre with 145 feet of shoreline and permanent dock/slip, charming stone storage shed, and unique extensive deck at shoreline. Lot 2 offers .63 acre with 107 feet of shoreline. Convenient access to Excelsior shops and dining. Minnetonka schools. Call for guided tour.
LOT 1
LOT 2
LOT 1: $2,195,000 LOT 2: $1,795,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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151
1 4 1 W I L L O U G H B Y W A Y W. MINNETONKA
1 1 2 5 H U N T E R D R I V E WAYZATA
Beautifully finished end unit with main-floor master suite and views of nature. Light and bright.
Charming fully restored farmhouse. Entertaining barn with additional bed and bath.
BEDROOMS: 2
•
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 3.5
$889,000
CAROLYN OLSON
MELISSA JOHNSON 612-670-3465 | MELISSA.JOHNSON@CBBURNET.COM
5 6 6 5 A R C H E R L A N E N . PLYMOUTH
7 5 2 1 W A L N U T G R O V E L A N E N . MAPLE GROVE
Impressive Creek Hill Custom Homes design under construction. Serenity on the Greenway.
Creek Hill Custom Homes rambler on wooded lot in the Woods at Rush Creek. Sites available.
BATHROOMS: 5
PRICE UPON REQUEST
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$845,000
LISA PIAZZA AND ERIK MYHRAN
LISA PIAZZA AND ERIK MYHRAN
612-751-0976 | LISA.PIAZZA@CBBURNET.COM
612-751-0976 | LISA.PIAZZA@CBBURNET.COM
1 8 3 2 2 K Y L I E C O U R T MINNETONKA
1 9 0 5 C O N C O R D I A S T R E E T ORONO
Exceptional craftsmanship. Walkout 1-story overlooking woods and marshlands. Minnetonka schools.
Lake Minnetonka shoreline with west-facing views. Great homesite and renovation opportunity.
BEDROOMS: 4
Artful Living
$544,900
952-270-5784 | CHOLSON@CBBURNET.COM
BEDROOMS: 5
152
BATHROOMS: 3
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,100,000
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 3
$1,179,900
CRAIG MOEN
JEFF MARTINEAU
612-850-7639 | CMOEN@CBBURNET.COM
952-210-2626 | JMARTINEAU@CBBURNET.COM
Magazine of the North
COL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
1 4 7 5 9 T I M B E R W O L F T R A I L N W PRIOR LAKE
1 9 0 2 5 T O W E R I N G O A K S T R A I L CREDIT RIVER TOWNSHIP
Stunning walkout on quiet cul-de-sac overlooking the 9th green of the Wilds Golf Course.
Luxurious custom-built home on 4.89 acres set among oak trees, woods, small creek and pond.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 6
BATHROOMS: 4
$799,900
BATHROOMS: 5
$839,900
IVERSON REALTY GROUP
IVERSON REALTY GROUP
612-414-7100 | PIVERSON@CBBURNET.COM
612-414-7100 | PIVERSON@CBBURNET.COM
1 1 7 1 2 E C K E R T A V E N U E S E DELANO
2 4 4 0 K E L L E R R O A D MEDINA
Beautiful executive home on Rice Lake with 3+ acres and pool. Award-winning Delano schools.
Former model home in Medina Meadows with beautiful pool and patio. Walk to Orono schools.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 4
$779,000
BATHROOMS: 5
$995,000
CATHERINE WERSAL
CATHERINE WERSAL
612-597-6661 | CRWERSAL@CBBURNET.COM
612-597-6661 | CRWERSAL@CBBURNET.COM
9 6 6 3 F E N N I N G A V E N U E S E DELANO
3 9 8 3 P I N E P O I N T R O A D SARTELL
Impressive custom ranch-style home on 2+ acres. Award-winning Delano schools. High-end finishes.
Prime 300 feet of Mississippi River frontage. Exotic architectural concepts and upscale features.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$599,999
BATHROOMS: 6
$1,800,000
BECKY AND DOUG SCHAUST
SUE PLADSON
612-799-7889 | BSCHAUST@CBBURNET.COM
320-267-0124 | SPLADSON@CBBURNET.COM
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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O’FLANNIGAN GROUP
RESIDENTIAL, WATERFRONT AND
6 5 1 - 4 3 0 - 7 7 5 9 | S O F L A N N I G A N @ C B B U R N E T. C O M
RETREAT PROPERTIES
N 6 6 9 1 C O U N T Y R O A D F CLIFTON TOWNSHIP, WISCONSIN
1 2 4 8 H I G H W A Y 3 5 N . HUDSON, WISCONSIN
Create your own concept of a retreat. 37 wooded acres with 1,000 feet of St. Croix riverfront.
Contemporary design overlooking St. Croix River and new river crossing at Stillwater.
$799,000
BATHROOMS: 4
$879,500
W 6 1 3 3 6 9 0 T H A V E N U E BELDENVILLE, WISCONSIN
2 3 2 3 5 S T. C R O I X T R A I L N . SCANDIA
60-acre retreat with lodge-style home, guest cottage and huge storage building. Gorgeous setting.
Architecturally designed home with St. Croix River views and access to private marina.
BEDROOMS: 4
154
BEDROOMS: 3
Artful Living
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BATHROOMS: 5
$949,000
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,100,000
4 3 3 C R O I X V I E W D R I V E S . AFTON
4 7 5 8 5 C H A P I N W O O D R O A D CABLE, WISCONSIN
Executive retreat 20 minutes from St. Paul includes pool, tennis and indoor racquetball.
Historic Chapinwood estate offers 24 acres of total wooded seclusion on Diamond Lake.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 5
Magazine of the North
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,295,000
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,699,000
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
STEVE AND PARKER PEMBERTON 6 1 2 - 3 8 6 - 8 5 7 0 | S T E V E @ P E M B E RT O N H O M E S T E A M . C O M
5426 FRONTENAC CIRCLE LONSDALE Beautiful walkout rambler with 38 acres of majestic, rolling countryside. Great room with large west-facing windows. Large sun-filled kitchen with Cambria island. BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 3 $675,000
17715 KINGSBURY CIRCLE LAKEVILLE Gracious home with sport court and pond shore. 7,000 feet of living space, 12-foot coffered ceilings, Sub-Zero/Wolf kitchen, full lower-level kitchen, billiard room and more. BEDROOMS: 6
BATHROOMS: 5 $775,000
4 3 5 E . C R Y S TA L L A K E R O A D BURNSVILLE South-facing prime shoreline on Crystal Lake. Former Remodeler’s Showcase home. Large, sun-filled windows, incredible master suite and views from nearly every room. BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 3 $885,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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DANIEL AND JULIE DESROCHERS DESROCHERS REALTY GROUP 6 1 2 - 5 5 4 - 4 7 7 3 | D A N I E L @ D R E A LT Y G . C O M
1 0 0 2 7 B L U F F R O A D EDEN PRAIRIE
6 6 1 2 PA I U T E PA S S EDINA
Grand custom build recently remodeled with laundry on main floor plus master and laundry up.
Fabulous home with 4 bedrooms up, remodeled kitchen, hardwood floors and a huge backyard.
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 4
•
BATHROOMS: 3
$525,000
7 1 0 8 L A N H A M L A N E EDINA
5 0 2 9 N O B H I L L D R I V E EDINA Magnificent 2-story with an in-law suite and a 5-car garage on a gorgeous cul-de-sac lot.
BATHROOMS: 4
$850,000
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 6
$1,050,000
6 5 1 9 D A K O T A T R A I L EDINA
1 4 4 5 0 N I C O L L E T C O U R T BURNSVILLE
Exquisite custom walkout with wine cellar, 5 fireplaces and room for nanny quarters.
Fantastic centrally located 1.67-acre commercial lot at the junction of I-35E and I-35W.
BEDROOMS: 5
Artful Living
BEDROOMS: 4
Inviting home with expansive spaces, 4 bedrooms on 1 level, a large sun porch and deck. BEDROOMS: 5
156
PRICE UPON REQUEST
Magazine of the North
BATHROOMS: 8
$1,400,000
$1,499,000
COL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
AT DESROCHERS REALTY GROUP, WE DON’T JUST BUY AND SELL REAL ESTATE — WE BUILD RELATIONSHIPS. WE PROVIDE A HIGHER STANDARD OF SERVICE FOR YOUR HIGHER STANDARD OF LIVING.
8 5 9 1 T I G U A L A N E CHANHASSEN
5 9 0 1 O L I N G E R R O A D EDINA
Private log home retreat on 4.25 wooded acres with in-floor heat and detached guesthouse.
Gorgeous custom build on a half acre with gourmet kitchen, 4 fireplaces and great room.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 3
$650,000
BATHROOMS: 6
$1,850,000
8 6 8 2 A M B E R G AT E D R I V E VICTORIA
1 4 4 5 6 W I L D S PA R K W A Y N W PRIOR LAKE
Stunning, like-new 5,000-plus-square-foot walkout rambler with main-level living.
Dramatic custom build with spectacular panoramic south-facing golf course and lake views.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 3
$825,000
BATHROOMS: 4
$850,000
7 6 2 1 P R A I R I E G R A S S PA S S PRIOR LAKE
X X M U R P H Y L A K E B O U L E V A R D CREDIT RIVER TOWNSHIP
Impeccable home with indoor sport court, gourmet kitchen, and laundry and 4 bedrooms up.
Great investment/development opportunity. 2 large lots along Murphy-Hanrehan Park Reserve.
BEDROOMS: 5
$595,000–$995,000
BATHROOMS: 5
$850,000
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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DANIEL AND JULIE DESROCHERS DESROCHERS REALTY GROUP 6 1 2 - 5 5 4 - 4 7 7 3 | D A N I E L @ D R E A LT Y G . C O M
3 5 5 1 5 3 R D A V E N U E SOMERSET, WISCONSIN
2 3 4 1/2 A V E N U E CLAYTON, WISCONSIN
Beautiful 2-story walkout on 5.48 acres with a private tree-lined yard and a 5-car garage.
Turnkey 36-acre professional horse farm with fantastic home and great outbuildings.
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$599,900
BEDROOMS: 3
BATHROOMS: 5
$694,900
2 4 0 3 7 C O U N T Y R O A D X SHELL LAKE, WISCONSIN 8 9 8 5 L E G E N D S C L U B D R I V E CREDIT RIVER TOWNSHIP Beautiful log home with 2 master suites privately nestled on 40 acres with great views. BEDROOMS: 5
$774,900
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 5
$1,349,000
1 8 8 9 6 B R O O K W O O D R O A D CREDIT RIVER TOWNSHIP
9 1 3 0 1 9 5 T H S T R E E T E . CREDIT RIVER TOWNSHIP
Amazing 9,500-plus-square-foot custom home on Legends Golf Course. Theater and indoor sport court.
Unbelievable 9,000-plus-square-foot custom home with guesthouse, pool, tennis court and more.
BEDROOMS: 4
158
BATHROOMS: 4
Picturesque 8,700-plus-square-foot home on Legends Golf Course with an indoor sport court.
Artful Living
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Magazine of the North
BATHROOMS: 7
$1,648,500
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 8
$1,899,900
C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
AT DESROCHERS REALTY GROUP, WE DON’T JUST BUY AND SELL REAL ESTATE — WE BUILD RELATIONSHIPS. WE PROVIDE A HIGHER STANDARD OF SERVICE FOR YOUR HIGHER STANDARD OF LIVING.
6 0 5 T U R N B E R R Y C O U R T NORTHFIELD
2 5 7 3 3 C E D A R L A N E NEW PRAGUE
Beautiful home on a golf course with many updates, a 4-season porch and pond views.
Remarkable 2-story walkout with gourmet kitchen, 4 bedrooms up and deeded lake access.
BEDROOMS: 4
BEDROOMS: 5
BATHROOMS: 3
$517,000
BATHROOMS: 3
$599,900
1 2 9 1 7 G R E Y S T O N E A V E N U E N . HUGO
8 9 8 9 I N G R A M A V E N U E N W ANNANDALE
Custom walkout on 2.9 acres with 4 bedrooms, laundry and bonus room up. Mahtomedi schools.
Serene lake living on Cedar Lake with an expansive paver patio, deck and 3-car garage.
BEDROOMS: 5
BEDROOMS: 4
BATHROOMS: 4
$650,000
BATHROOMS: 6
PRICE UPON REQUEST
5 9 6 6 B L A C K B E R R Y T R A I L INVER GROVE HEIGHTS
2 0 2 1 3 C H I P P E N D A L E A V E N U E FARMINGTON
Remarkable 6,400-plus-square-foot rambler with heated floors, theater and wine cellar.
Amazing investment opportunity. 76 acres of raw land with 2 homes and 2 detached garages.
BEDROOMS: 3
$2,360,000
BATHROOMS: 4
$1,399,900
COLDWELL BANKER BURNET DISTINCTIVE HOMES®
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CEDARLEAF POINT MAHTOMEDI Nine wooded and lakefront lots on quiet cul-de-sac setting with easy access to freeways, shopping, parks and award-winning schools. Custom design and build with DeWitt Homes. PRICE UPON REQUEST
PATRICK MCGRATH
651-653-2449 PMCGRATH@CBBURNET.COM
5283 TRIDENT LANE SW ROCHESTER Spectacular new model home with a cosmopolitan design features 5 bedrooms, 6 bathrooms, a fully finished lower level and a 4-car garage. 2 private acres. BEDROOMS: 5 $1,475,000
BATHROOMS: 6
SHAWN BURYSKA
507-254-7425 SBURYSKA@CBBURNET.COM
1 2 1 5 1 D A N B U R Y WAY ROSEMOUNT Stunning walkout rambler nestled in quiet Rosemount community. 14 acres of wooded land with pond views. Grand living spaces and almost 14,000 finished square feet. BEDROOMS: 5 $1,950,000
BATHROOMS: 7
STEVE AND PARKER PEMBERTON
612-386-8570 STEVE@PEMBERTONHOMESTEAM.COM 612-386-8575 PARKER@PEMBERTONHOMESTEAM.COM
160
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C OL D W E L L B A N KE R GL OB A L L U XU R Y ℠
A R C H I T E C T U R A L
P H O T O G R A P H Y
612.353.4073 | www.spacecrafting.com
Interiors Designed by MartinPatrick 3 Studio with Purcell | Remodeling & Renovation
INSPIRING DESIGN, INSPIRED BY YOU.
A FAMILY-OWNED CORPORATION COMMITTED TO EXCELLENCE & CUSTOMER SATISFACTION Edina Location 6521 Cecilia Circle 952-941-2685 Sales@TwinCityFireplace.com
Woodbury Location 7828 Hudson Road 651-204-0112 Woodbury@TwinCityFireplace.com
LIGHTING SOLUTIONS by MUSKA LIGHTING
MuskaLighting.com
DREAM HOME BUILT by ZAWADSKI HOMES
ZawadskiHomes.com
ARTFULLY CRAF TED
952.401.4300 EROTASCUSTOMBUILDING.COM LC#BC004898
HOME
PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL CROSBY
166 I N S I D E R ’ S
170 D E T A I L S • 173 D E V E L O P M E N T 176 T E C H N O L O G Y • 180 B U I L D G U I D E
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Home I N S I D E R ’ S G U I D E
Insider’s Guide DESIGNER AND RETAILER KATE REGAN SHARES A FEW OF HER FAVORITE THINGS. BY K AT H L E E N G I L D E A
Interior designer Kate Regan established the Sitting Room, an Excelsior design studio and home-furnishings boutique, 15 years ago. Since that time, she and her team have earned a stellar reputation among clients, builders, remodelers and architects alike for their timeless yet fresh take. We asked Regan to share some of her design favorites.
TEXTURE I love mixing textures in a room. An especially nice fabric combination for our ever-changing climate is a lightweight linen paired with an aged velvet. Partner these fabrics with a densely woven wool rug to anchor the furniture in a room. Some of my favorite rugs remind me of the comfort of a heavy cable-knit sweater and provide such great texture and softness underfoot. And you can never go wrong adding in an organic material like rattan or seagrass. I particularly love this modern wing chair from Palecek.
PAINT COLOR
PATTERN I love a great print with an inspiring color palette. Many rooms I design start with this “magic fabric,” as I like to call it. This new fabric from Schumacher is a great example; I can’t wait to use this in a project.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY LANDMARK
Benjamin Moore Gray Owl is one of those enigmatic colors that works as a neutral in all types of rooms. It feels fresh and crisp but somehow doesn’t feel cold. It can read gray, blue or sea glass depending on the light. I love how accent colors like berry, cobalt and yellow work with this paint color.
DESIGN ERA Sixties Palm Beach style. I love the vibrant color palettes and the organic materials. It had such a happy, casual vibe while still being very cool and sophisticated.
HOME TECHNOLOGY This is a tough one for me as I’m not very high-tech. I bought my twin girls a Google Home last Christmas, and I love being able to use it as my personal DJ.
INSPIRATION SOURCES Instagram and Pinterest are great sources of inspiration and are very effective ways of translating ideas to clients. Like most people, I find inspiration when I travel. I recently spent some time in Savannah, Georgia, and Charleston, South Carolina, and was overwhelmed by the charming architecture as well as those great little parks with magnolia trees and Spanish moss.
ROOM TO DESIGN Lately I’ve been doing some fun kids’ rooms. Anything goes in a kids’ space (as long as it’s durable), and it’s fun to push the envelope a bit. It’s a great place to mix multiple patterns and textures.
LUXURIOUS TOUCH Every room can use a beautifully monogrammed cashmere throw. This adds a subtle touch of luxury without making a room feel too formal or unapproachable.
DESIGN MANTRA Create beautiful livable spaces.
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PERSONAL TRAINING AND LASER BODY CONTOURING TEAM YOUR
WHOLE BODY CARE, ONE CONVENIENT LOCALE 6 5 6 5 F R A NCE AV E S OU TH, S U ITE 3 5 0 , E DINA, M N 5 5 4 3 5 PURE LU X
T R E S S PO RT S
952-460-0160
952-486-8433
MYPURELUX.COM
T R E SS PO RT S . CO
lucyinteriordesign.com
International Market Square 2 7 5 M A R K E T S T R E E T, S U I T E 3 1 1 MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55405
Executive Health Care invites you to experience the most efficient, comprehensive, and convenient physical examination program available.
Call to schedule your one day executive physical at 612-871-6268.
W e understand the demands of your career, your schedule, and your life.
W e know how your health affects the well-being of your family and the vitality of your company.
Dudley M. McLinn, M.D.
|
Jason J. Reed, M.D.
BOARD CERTIFIED IN INTERNAL MEDICINE
Located on the Campus of Abbott Northwestern Hospital | www.ehc.bz | Minneapolis, MN
Home D E T A I L S
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Magazine of the North
Light It Up TRANSFORM YOUR WALLS BY SWITCHING UP SWITCH PLATES. B Y C H R I S P L A N TA N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY 2 N D T R U T H
Wall switch plates and outlet covers work around the clock hiding electrical connections that keep our homes humming. But just because they’re practical doesn’t mean they have to be dull. Whether you’re looking for turn-of-the century accents or the newest high-tech styles, there are enviable options available to complete a cohesive aesthetic. Opt for formats that disappear on your wall elegantly, like these clear glass plates from Forbes & Lomax. These invisible light switches add a tasteful touch to any room and are available in a toggle style, a European look that has been wired for today. When you want to make more than a singular statement, look for a line that accommodates all your needs with multi-format pieces in a variety of finishes. Turning this overlooked detail into an architectural accent is as easy as turning a screwdriver.
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outside cook. live. be.
7101 France Ave South Suite 102, Edina, MN 55435 952-922-1770 International Market Square Suite 166, 275 Market Street Minneapolis, MN 55405 612-305-1090
Home D E V E L O P M E N T
The Livin’ Is
EASY KROISS DEVELOPMENT BUILDS DREAM DUPLEXES ON KENWOOD PARKWAY. BY M A R G U E R I T E H A P P E
Downtown Minneapolis’s condo renaissance is no secret in the real-estate world, but Todd Simning of Kroiss Development knows that lifestyle isn’t for everyone. “A home on Kenwood Parkway or in Lowry Hill offers something slightly different than the downtown condo market does,” he explains. “Living on Kenwood Parkway offers space that you simply don’t have living with hundreds of other people in a condo building. A flat in a duplex still provides some sort of yard, privacy and a tremendously nice neighborhood with Kenwood Park right across the street, plus you’re practically downtown when you want to be.”
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The company’s Kenwood Parkway project features two buildings with two units each, offering the aforementioned amenities coupled with staggeringly high-quality design. As the developer looked for new spaces to create distinctive contemporary duplexes in the neighborhood, they came across a lot for sale. Unbeknownst to the Kroiss team until after the sale, the lot had already been split and zoned for duplexes. All that was left to do was design and build. Simning notes that they wanted to explore the modern style taking the Minneapolis market by storm without obscuring the value or existing tone of the neighborhood. “The Kenwood area tends to feature traditionally styled duplexes,” he notes. “We sought out Peterssen/Keller Architecture to help create something unique but with really great architectural lines that wouldn’t be obtrusive.” The resulting units, which are currently for sale, meld cutting-edge design with unparalleled outdoor space and city access. Inside and out, the excellence is in the details. “We paid attention to many areas of the home where most builders might not have put in the extra money,” says Simning. “We included a heated driveway, because we noticed the grade and wanted to ensure that no one would ever slip down it. In both buildings,
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there are individual elevators to ensure privacy and security. We also spent time and effort on the windows to achieve a maximum sound-transfer rating, so that the units could have stunning views and natural light but not pick up sound from traffic. From cast-iron plumbing to quality slow-closing cabinetry, we went through every design element to ensure that someone can move in and feel incredibly comfortable.” Floor-to-ceiling Kolbe VistaLuxe windows highlight each space. “We decided not to add framing between windows so as not to detract from the clean lines and architecture,” Simning adds. “By using heavy-duty windows stiffened with steel, we were able to incorporate an entire wall of windows instead of taking away from the sightlines that we wanted to capture within the Bryn Mawr neighborhood and of downtown Minneapolis.” “Ultimately, these units have been custom built and designed from the ground up,” he concludes. “These stylistic choices are very intricate, and as a general contractor, we’re proud to have a crew of tradespeople who can bring together all of these details. Whatever style you want to build — whether it’s a lake cottage, a Dutch Colonial or a modern home — we have the team and the expertise to make it happen.”
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Home T E C H N O L O G Y
Tech
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HELP FROM THESE SMART APPLIANCES AND DEVICES. BY A M B E R G I B S O N
IRON CHEF With dual ovens, a six-burner cooktop and an electric griddle, Dacor’s Modernist steam range makes preparing even the most extravagant feast an easier feat. A Wi-Fi-enabled LCD control panel shows cooking functions, preprogrammed settings and easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions. The IQ Kitchen app lets you adjust times, temps and lighting all from your smartphone. The range’s combination of power and precision makes it extremely versatile, letting you sear meat on one dual-stacked burner while melting chocolate on the next. And softly shutting doors and smooth-as-butter gliding racks create an effortless effect. Dacor Modernist 48-Inch Pro Dual-Fuel Steam Range, ALL, Inc., allinc.com, $13,499
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L A U N DRY L I F E SAV E R Even the dirtiest of clothes don’t stand a chance against the Miele W1. The high-intensity quick wash cycle removes stains in less than an hour, while the patented honeycomb drum is gentle on garments. TwinDos technology utilizes two detergent containers to dispense just the right amount every time. For items requiring a special application, CapDosing disburses a pre-portioned capsule of cleaning solution at just the right moment. And with the Miele@mobile app, you can check the status of a cycle remotely or even see when it’s time to buy more detergent. Miele W1 Front-Load Washer, ALL, Inc., allinc.com, $1,499
PRIME PROVISIONS At 48 inches wide, Sub-Zero’s side-by-side refrigerator easily fits enough to feed the varsity football team or prep for an eight-course dinner party. The smooth, sculpted design belies the technological prowess behind this impressive appliance. The showstopper? The triple-pane UV-resistant glass panel that lets you see what’s inside without having to open the refrigerator door. Triple evaporators allow each section to be controlled independently, and the automatic icemaker has an advanced water-filtration system that will have home bartenders swooning. Sub-Zero Built-In 48-Inch Side-by-Side Refrigerator, Warners’ Stellian, warnersstellian.com, from $11,599
SUPERIOR SNOOZE A good night’s sleep is one of the most coveted prizes for modern Americans. It’s hard enough to drift off with your mind whirring away let alone with your partner tossing and turning beside you. Sleep Number’s 360 Smart Bed creates two ideal beds within one, with comfortable layers and temperature-balancing fabrics to simulate the weightless feeling of zero gravity. The mattress’s responsive air technology automatically adjusts comfort, firmness and support, ensuring peaceful sleep for both you and your partner. Plus embedded SleepIQ technology tracks your slumber for quantifiable proof of the bed’s superiority. Sleep Number 360 Smart Bed, sleepnumber.com, from $2,299
AT YOU R S E RV IC E With daily life getting busier and stress at an all-time high, Amazon’s Alexa home system is here to help. It offers a simple solution to shop, play music, update your calendar, and even control compatible devices, like lights and thermostats. It’s like having concierge service in the comfort of your own home. Ask about the weather in Tokyo while packing for your next trip or turn on the lights when you arrive home with an armload of groceries. Bonus: It’s always improving, so the Echo smart speaker you buy today will be even smarter a year from now. Amazon Echo Smart Speaker, Union Place, unionplace.com, $99.99
TECHNICOLOR FANTASY We’ve come a long way since watching I Love Lucy in black and white. Quantum dots provide literally a billion shades of color on Samsung’s QLED smart TV and, combined with its Q Contrast Elite feature, create an incredibly detailed picture that has to be seen to be believed. When you’re not watching a show, ambient mode will display low-energy imagery that matches the surrounding environs and provides details like the time and weather. The TV also works with Samsung’s SmartThings app, letting you monitor compatible, connected devices like cameras, kitchen appliances and even laundry machines. Samsung 65-Inch QLED Smart 4K UHD TV, Abt Electronics, abt.com, $2,600
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Trusted Tried True Spell Estate is committed to delivering exquisite expressions from great vineyards while embracing the integrity and beauty of the varietal. spellestate.com
DESIGN IMPACTS LIVES. When you hire an ASID interior designer, you get more than great design. You gain an experienced professional who will create your ideal home or work environment – and help you get the most for your investment.
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Home B U I L D
LAKESIDE SPLENDOR A NEWLY BUILT STREETER FAMILY BEACH HOUSE IS A WORK OF ART. B Y K AT I E D O H M A N
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL CROSBY
When it comes to crafting waterfront residences on Lake Minnetonka, Streeter & Associates sets the tone. The Wayzata firm has created six family homes of varying architectural style and scope in Deephaven’s Cottagewood neighborhood alone as well as built or remodeled 30-plus properties along the sparkling shores of Lake Minnetonka. So it goes without saying that Steven Streeter knew exactly what he was looking for when he and wife Robin Wettengel started planning their next lake home — this time a sophisticated but beachy retreat that balances a luxurious feel and casual appeal. He rallied a dream team of longtime collaborators for the project, including Gabriel Keller and Bob Le Moine of Peterssen/Keller Architecture, Darril Otto of Otto Painting Design, interior designer Nada Bibi, and landscape architect Travis Van Liere.
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“Projects like this are the ones where you think to yourself, ‘I can’t believe I get paid to do this,’” says Keller. “Steven certainly had a vision for what he wanted, but he is a good listener, plus he has exquisite taste and great art.” The home’s scale is perfect for the setting. From the exterior, it nestles right into its environment alongside Lake Minnetonka. And at some 4,400 square feet, it’s neither too sprawling nor too tight. The main level’s mostly open floor plan makes it both sun-drenched and party-perfect. Taking a page from French interior designer Christian Liaigre, the team infused the space with cherished artwork and custom furniture from the family’s former home just next door. “Art, design and custom finishes are still important features in our new home,” Streeter explains. “But the end result is always relaxed elegance combined with durability for family, friends and our Portuguese water dog, Harley.”
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BOB LE MOINE, AIA; GABRIEL KELLER, ASSOCIATE AIA; NADA BIBI; DARRIL OTTO; LARS PETERSSEN, AIA; AND STEVEN STREETER
“This house has a stunning display of distinctive materiality, craftsmanship, architecture and creativity while still maintaining a strong connection to the lake,” he adds. Indeed, the art and furnishings are placed in service of water vistas and how the family lives in the home. The nearly floor-to-ceiling windows frame the lake as its own work of art. The open living area and kitchen are excellent spots to enjoy the view and one another’s company. Behind that flowing space sit the scullery kitchen, the brilliantly planned breezeway and the garage, which has a designated spot for son Griffin’s hockey gear plus a place for caterers to set up for parties. Upon entering through the Brombal Italian steel and glass entrance, guests can peek through to windows overlooking the lake or upstairs to an art gallery featuring salon-style works from the Weinstein Hammons Gallery that evoke water and the outdoors. The second floor, meanwhile, offers a respite from the openness of the main level. The master suite, the guest bedroom, and Griffin’s bedroom and living space are all pared-down and private; they feel almost like separate wings but without being spaced too far apart. While the home’s color palette is a minimalist white, cream and black, the variety of textures adds warmth and coziness: to wit, the sophisticated combination of matte and glossy white paint on the living-room ceiling; the varied textiles in the creamy, sunny guest room; the
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grass-cloth walls in the laundry room; and the unique, subtle plaster patterning on the walls throughout. And while most of the residence radiates with gorgeous natural light, the den just off the front entrance is black, accented with Otto-designed custom built-ins and a navy cashmere sofa — perfect for an evening of Netflix. “This home is a collection,” Streeter says. “You breathe certain new life into your favorite pieces when you put them in a new context.” The joy of living is evident here, which he credits to Peterssen/Keller’s masterful sense of function and flow, Otto’s intuitive brilliance with color and texture, and Bibi’s keen ability to mix new design elements with existing pieces. “We’re always trying to stretch and mix styles to do something different,” he adds. “It has to be livable and also have meaning to it.” In this case, the sophistication of a French salon with the casual coziness of a beach home.
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Strength for your future Call today for a complimentary consultation.
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THE SPORT
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A LOOK BACK ON THE WINDSOR CHARITY POLO CUP. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
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Situated just outside the elegant coastal town of Vero Beach, Florida, Windsor is an exclusive sporting enclave that sits upon 425 lush acres. It boasts such amenities as an 18-hole golf course, eight tennis courts, a gun club and, most notably, an impressive equestrian center, complete with a full-size polo field. That was added at the behest of Canadian businessman W. Galen Weston, who with his wife, philanthropist and former Ontario Lieutenant Governor Hilary, founded the private residential community back in 1989. They enlisted celebrated urban designers Andrés Duany and Elizabeth Plater-Zyberk to bring to life their vision for a village by the sea. Since that time, polo has remained an integral part of the community. The biennial Windsor Charity Polo Cup has become the social event of the season, and this year’s affair was no exception. Cohosted by Hilary and Salvatore Ferragamo (grandson of the esteemed Italian footwear designer), the event drew more than 2,000 attendees from around the world. Proceeds provided support to those struggling with Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s diseases and helped fund related research, benefitting the Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinson’s Research on a national level and the Alzheimer & Parkinson Association of Indian River County locally. Overseen by Windsor’s Director of Equestrian Operations Max Secunda (himself a professional polo player), the match featured an all-star lineup of international athletes, including Ferragamo, Argentina’s Lucas Criado, Brazil’s Rodrigo Andrade, John Walsh of America’s Most Wanted fame and the crowd-pleasing Nacho Figueras, who in recent years has become the poster boy of polo. He and wife Delfina Blaquier (both equine aficionados and Ralph Lauren models) are considered the power couple of polo and are on a mission to help the sport gain mainstream popularity. The cloudless blue sky and above-average February temperatures made for a perfect day for polo. Dressed in their finery, guests perused Porsches and the luxe wares on offer in the retail village (think J.McLaughlin and India Hicks) while sipping on Whispering Angel Rosé and the signature Indian River pink grapefruit margarita. The lively crowd then retired to their seats in the field-side tent to savor a three-course luncheon designed by Windsor Executive Chef Robert Meitzer. A kids’ match kicked off the festivities. Spectators were in for a treat as the headlining match was one of the most exhilarating in the event’s history, with spectacular feats of athleticism from both horse and human on full display. Come halftime, the crowd took to the field for the requisite divot stomping then enjoyed a spirited performance by traditional Scottish band Vero Beach Pipe & Drums. Team Pezuñas Caliente, captained by Figueras, narrowly beat out Team Falasiri, captained by Andrade, with a final score of 9–8. A visit to Windsor on a sunny late-winter afternoon makes clear why generation after generation continues to flock to this village by the sea. After all, it’s not simply a place; it’s a lifestyle. And for the sporting set — particularly equestrians — it’s a dream destination.
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TRAVEL SWEEPSTAKES Enter to win 60,000 FlexPoints worth $900 on airfare, hotel stays and car rentals provided by U.S. Bank FlexPerks Rewards.
One winner of the Artful Living Sweepstakes will receive 60,000 FlexPoints worth $900 on airfare, hotel stays and car rentals. FlexPoints can also be redeemed for merchandise, gift cards, event tickets and more. Sweepstakes ends September 1, 2018. Open to legal U.S. residents who are 18 years or older.
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No purchase necessary. Sweepstakes held by Artful Living Magazine, 218 Washington Avenue North, Suite 220, Minneapolis, MN 55401. Odds of winning 1 in 60,000. Winner will be randomly selected by Rafflecopter©. Winner will be notified via email. Sweepstakes runs 6/1/2018-9/1/2018. Open to legal U.S. residents who are 18 years or older. All travel reservations must be booked online through the Rewards Center at usbank.com or by phone at 888-229-8864 (only airline tickets may be booked over the phone). If you book travel by phone, a $25 Travel Advisor Consultation fee will be charged per award ticket, and please refer to additional terms and conditions provided on your travel itinerary. If you do not have a FlexPerks credit card, you will be provided with a FlexPoints ID via email after you have qualified for the FlexPoints. At that time, you can visit flexperksrewards.com and click “Sign Up Now!” under the “Log In to Your Account” button to enroll. There you can enter your FlexPoints ID along with your first and last name to get access to online reward point redemption. You are responsible for any federal or state taxes owed on the FlexPoints. Consult your tax advisor should you have questions about the taxability of this promotion.
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY TRAVELSOUTHDAKOTA.COM
STURGIS RIDES OVER THE HILL AS THE LEGENDARY MOTORCYCLE RALLY NEARS ITS 80TH ANNIVERSARY, IS IT STARTING TO SHOW ITS AGE? BY MARGUERITE HAPPE
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For 11.5 months each year, Sturgis exists as a sleepy South Dakota hamlet. Then, August. The dog days of summer herald an infusion of people that increases the town’s population of 7,000 by upward of 12,000 percent, bloating the Black Hills with bevies of motorcycle-riding bacchanals. Rowdy, tattooed bikers swarm the area for the infamous 10-day Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, one of the largest, most historic gatherings of its kind. The citizens of tiny Sturgis, meanwhile, lock their doors and head for the hills as their hometown is overrun by boozehounds and bar brawls. At least, that’s the narrative most people know. These days, however, media coverage is more likely to read “World’s largest motorcycle rally getting tamer” (USA Today, 2017) than to cite grim reports of stabbings and police chases (The New York Times, 1990). And longtime attendees like Tom Brenden, general manager at the Harley-Davidson outpost in Alexandria, have noticed the changes in recent years. “This year will be my 28th in a row,” he explains. “When I started going, there might have been 150,000 to 200,000 people in the crowd. Now, I’m 57, and guys my age are pretty common. You don’t see a lot of young people anymore. It’s not nearly as
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wild and crazy as it was back 25 or 30 years ago.” In other words, as rally goer Robert Huddleson of Vista, California, so eloquently told USA Today, “There aren’t so many naked ladies anymore.” In a way, as the rally grows tamer, it’s returning to its roots. Nearly 80 years ago, the event originated under the moniker Black Hills Motorcycle Classic. According to Sturgis legend, in 1938, J.C. “Pappy” Hoel hosted a dirt-track race with nine riders; it was eventually sanctioned by the American Motorcyclist Association. Back then, motorcycle culture was wholesome and family-oriented, and people who joined a club bonded over their love for racing and the art of the motorcycle as they spent the day on the track with family and friends. But as these clubs grew more popular, so did their “outlaw” counterparts, a term used to describe clubs that weren’t affiliated with the American Motorcyclist Association. They quickly became known for wreaking havoc, racing on the streets of small towns that lacked sufficient law enforcement to stop them. In 1947, a group of 500 outlaw motorcyclists caused a riot in Hollister, California, when they “rode their motorcycles into bars and restaurants, through traffic lights, tossed bottles into upper-floor windows, and relieved themselves of the beer
they had been drinking in the streets,” Daniel Wolf writes in his book The Rebels. This riot turned the tide of public perception against bikers, associating them with rowdiness, violence and organized crime. Then, in the sixties, as Daniel Krier and William Swart explain in “The Commodification of Spectacle,” their incredibly detailed cultural history of Sturgis, “a new genre of biker-themed cinema became widely popular. Especially important was the 1969 film Easy Rider, [which] depicted motorcycle touring as an expression of the rising youth movement. To young people disenchanted with establishment values, the outlaw/hippie biker embodied countercultural desire for freedom in an authoritarian world.” During this time and in the decades that followed, many of these outlaw organizations attended Sturgis, and the sheer number with which motorcyclists descended upon the town often overwhelmed its law-enforcement resources, causing an uptick in crime. Even as late as the nineties, media outlets like The New York Times published stern articles bemoaning the “virtual occupying army in black leather, boots and tattoos” that took over Sturgis each year. With crime reports citing drunk driving and indecent exposure, blame was easy to place — and the media coverage often failed to mention the millions of dollars spent during those 10 days, virtually bankrolling the town’s budget for the rest of the year. The well-known (and extant) Buffalo Chip Campground made moralizing headlines especially easy to write, hosting events like its fake orgasm and homemade bikini contests, “midget bowling,” “beers and burps,” and “women of wrestling’s wringing wet and wild throw down.” In the past two decades, however, this imagery has become more of a faint echo than a reality. These days, the crowd is as likely to be filled with bankers, doctors and lawyers moonlighting as badass bikers as it is with authentic rogues of the road. Part of the reason, of course, is economics. Simply owning and operating a motorcycle requires a hefty financial investment; on top of that, Sturgis itself has reached unprecedented levels of price gouging, taking financial advantage of its cult status. A room at the Holiday Inn, for example, typically goes for $94 a night but runs upward of $600 during the rally. Camping and other lower-cost options have burgeoned in recent years, but food and drink costs have simultaneously skyrocketed. This price gouging means that the affluent are often the ones who can afford to attend. Tom Brenden explains that at the 75th anniversary rally in 2015, he heard people complaining about the aggressive pricing and swearing they’d never return. “And they didn’t,” he says. “I haven’t seen them since.” Neil Johnson of Trapper Creek, Alaska, makes the trip every year and notes that rally goers rarely purchase souvenirs until the last day, when vendors lower their prices. “Last year, T-shirts were three for $50,” he says. Like many others, he works hard to find the best deals in town. He stays at the Elk Creek campground for $25 a day and eats his meals at the Lutheran church ($7 for breakfast) and the American Legion ($10 for dinner).
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The town, for its part, has gone to great lengths to cater to rally goers. It required historic zoning to ensure that facades of bars remained in a Wild West aesthetic, and massive campgrounds, music venues, parking lots, cafeterias, snack shops and bathrooms were constructed to host the masses — and of course to profit from them, too. Experiences like Sturgis, Krier and Swart suggest, are evidence of a new type of luxury taking the travel industry by storm. Much like a vacation to Europe or the Caribbean, hopping on a motorcycle and heading to a rowdy biker rally provides a departure from normal everyday life. Instead of a stay at the Four Seasons, one can visit a town essentially constructed in the image of an American mythos. It’s like a real-life version of Westworld — sans the creepy futuristic scheming, the robots and the blood baths. The 2018 rally, if it follows the trajectory of recent years, may well be the tamest yet. In 2017, Sturgis Police Department statistics showed a decline in nearly every crime committed during the festivities. With no citations for indecent exposure or careless driving and only three citations for throwing burning items from a vehicle, the rally, at least on paper, is technically the safest it has ever been. Plus just 32 people “deposited filth in public” last year as compared to 44 people in 2016. So there’s that. The lower crime rate, smaller numbers and aging crowd are symptoms of a trend in recreational travel that extends well beyond Sturgis. Last year, for example, Harley-Davidson, which represents half of the United States’ big-bike sales market, sold far fewer motorcycles than expected. Research firm AllianceBernstein cites millennial habits as the reason: “Our data suggests the younger Gen Y population is adopting motorcycling at a far lower rate than prior generations,” analyst David Beckel told Business Insider last year. “Gen Ys are aging into the important ‘pre-family’ cohort of riders, and Boomers are increasingly handing over their keys to the smaller Gen X population.” Tom Brenden’s experience at his Harley-Davidson shop underscores these findings. “We can’t get 18- to 35-year-olds on motorcycles,” he explains. “When I was young, I wanted to go on rallies and poker runs, but there aren’t very many young people who want to do that anymore, and the industry is really suffering.” Why is this happening? “If I had the answer to that question, I’d be a rich man!” he laughs. While many attribute this decline to millennial spending habits, others suggest that motorcycle makers need to market lower-priced models, slimmed down and modernized for a new era of economic efficiency. As much as Sturgis is aging, says Brenden, there’s still something very special about it that makes it worthwhile. “Once a year, bikers invade this sleepy little nothing town,” he notes. “It’s unlike any rally based in a major area — Daytona Bike Week, Laconia Motorcycle Week, Arizona Bike Week. People from all over the world come to Sturgis, but the majority of them are from the Midwest. They’re friendly and outgoing. You can sit down for a beer, and the guy to the left of you might be a world-famous surgeon while the guy to the right of you pumps gas at the Cenex down the road. It doesn’t matter at all. Everyone just wants to talk about their Harleys.”
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Into the Great Wide Open THERE’S NO PLACE ON EARTH QUITE LIKE AMANGIRI. B Y K AT E N E L S O N
Amangiri is in the middle of nowhere. And, to be very clear, that’s entirely on purpose. It’s one of the main reasons the exclusive Canyon Point, Utah — wait, where? — property is such a coveted destination for celebrities and elite travelers alike. Getting there involves a series of flights or a scenic road trip from, most often, Phoenix or Las Vegas. But trust us, it’s well worth the trouble.
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We opted to fly into nearby Page Municipal Airport and let a driver bring us the rest of the way. Which really was for the best, because I’m not sure we would have found our way otherwise. At the end of a series of long and winding roads, up rises a geometric concrete fortress seemingly right out of the untouched southern Utah desert. Surrounding the 600-acre property are five national parks, numerous national monuments and the Navajo Nation, the largest Native American reservation in the country. One of 33 ultra luxe resorts around the globe from acclaimed hotel group Aman, Amangiri has just 34 suites. All have fireplaces, terraces, unreal views and private courtyard entrances; some also boast pools and sky terraces with daybeds. There’s an incredible feeling of seclusion here, so much so that you may wonder if you and your traveling companion are the only guests on property. Even the most well-traveled of Aman junkies will tell you there’s no place quite like this. Curled around a rock escarpment, the swimming pool is simply breathtaking and beckons you to its warm waters. Treatments at the spa — from facials and massages to crystal sound baths and floatation therapy — employ Navajo healing traditions to restore
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hózhó, meaning “beauty, harmony, balance and health.” Fitness offerings include a well-equipped gym, personal training sessions, and Pilates and yoga classes. Not to be overlooked is the excellent cuisine, from the cast-iron pancake at breakfast to the fry bread taco for lunch to the buffalo filet mignon come dinnertime. But the name of the game here is adventure. Onsite excursions range from hiking one of the many picturesque trails to saddling up for a guided horseback ride to challenging yourself on a via ferrata climbing route. Nearby natural wonders include Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell, the Colorado River and Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, among others. Taking to the sky by plane, helicopter or hot-air balloon is the best way to take in the otherworldly landscape. Perhaps best of all, there’s no need to consciously disconnect. There’s no digital detox ploy here. And that’s because the Amangiri experience is so all-encompassing that you can’t help but live in the moment. You can’t help but stand in awe of the natural beauty that surrounds you. And, if you’ve done it right, you can’t help but bring some of that childlike wonder back with you upon your return to reality.
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THE LAND BEFORE TIME WHEN DINOSAURS ROAMED NORTH DAKOTA. BY HILLARY RICHARD
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA_JAMES/ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
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On a blisteringly hot June day in the North Dakota Badlands, there are very few signs of life aside from birds, snakes and wandering livestock. The landscape is tall, stark and punishing, with loose rocks to trip you and serrated cliffs to cut you should you fall. Conical peaks rise from the ground, each striated layer full of potential discovery. This was once a land of savannas and plains, with rivers and lakes. Unrecognizable creatures with disproportionate limbs, spikes, shells, horns and unfathomable teeth roamed freely, feeding on the tall grass and, oftentimes, one another. On this summer day, I’m perched precariously on a steep, uncomfortably jagged mountain ledge that pokes sharply even through my kneepads, the flat head of my rock hammer poised over a sharp chisel. The harsh summer sun casts a shadow over my tools, which are anchored in a crevice only millimeters deep. I pause. “How old did you say this is?” I ask. “That? Around 34 million years,” answers paleontologist Clint Boyd. When I first said I was going to North Dakota, the reaction of family and friends was universal: “What’s there?” Images of vast, unobstructed spaces that blur into the horizon don’t typically spark a tourism frenzy. But that pristine, lonely landscape has allowed nature to preserve one of North Dakota’s greatest intrigues: its prehistoric residents. Nearly the entire surface of the state is sedimentary rock, largely untouched by glaciation, making it perfect for fossil preservation. There are ancient bones everywhere in North Dakota. In what is now called the badlands, an area so named because nothing much grows here, rhinos once roamed. Lakes and rivers in what is now a bone-dry landscape once sustained a population of large land tortoises. Cinematic favorites like triceratops and T. rex traversed North Dakota. The state and its fossils have a unique, constantly evolving relationship, thanks in part to modern-day discoveries made on public digs. Die-hard dinosaur fans return each year to assist paleontologists, but the public digs are not well-known outside the world of fossil enthusiasts.
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habitats where rhinos live. This landscape is anything but flat. Walking through the mountains requires good balance and close attention to each step. Only by cracking the surface of these inhospitable rocks can you begin to discover the curious world of wildlife that once roamed here. The public digs have happened organically, in a very North Dakota way. Whenever residents would discover bones on their property (which still happens often), they would call the paleontologists from the state-funded Geological Survey, who would drive out to assess the situation. Once there, they would rely on local volunteers to help properly collect and transport the fossils to the lab in Bismarck. Over time, this practice evolved into an open sign-up for volunteers to accompany the paleontologists on their annual fieldwork. The digs are hard work. It takes a dedicated, curious person to play paleontologist with the Geological Survey for a few days each summer to unearth creatures that no longer exist. Most of the excursions are free, save for a refundable deposit. There are a number of dig sites, like the one outside Dickinson, where volunteers are guaranteed to uncover fossils. The three paleontologists whom I meet — Boyd, Barnes and Jeff Person — also discover several small creatures they have never seen before
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANIE OSBORNE/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX
The bones I am to excavate are hidden, save for two inches of a rib sticking out of the mountain. The thin, khaki-clad paleontologist assures me that rhinos were very common in this area and that I won’t ruin anything beyond repair. I swing the hammer onto the head of the chisel, sending a huge crack through stone that had been impossible to chip with just a trowel. With a second hit at a 45-degree angle, a chunk flies off, and I can see the rhinoceros’s rib bone, which had settled millions of years ago into the landscape outside Dickinson, due west of the capital city of Bismarck. A few peaks and valleys over, Becky Barnes, another paleontologist, clad in jeans and one of her many humorous dinosaur-themed T-shirts, bends over a fossilized tortoise shell, her long braid poking out beneath a tan, wide-brimmed hat. She nicknames the shell “Bruce’s tortoise” in her field notebook. Bruce is neither an early explorer nor a notable scientist. Bruce, like me, is just your typical volunteer on a dig in western North Dakota. He happened to chip into a mountain and find a stylemys (similar in appearance to an outsize Galápagos tortoise), which lived about the same time as my rhino. In the Eocene Epoch, which lasted from roughly 55 million to 34 million years ago, this area looked similar to the African
FOR THOSE FAMILIAR WITH NORTH DAKOTA HISTORY,
DINOSAURS ARE JUST A PART OF
at this site, mainly types of fish and oreodonts (“walking food,” as Barnes calls them, referring to their place on the food chain). Last year’s public digs were scaled back to four from five in 2016 because of budget cuts. The Bismarck area dig is the only one that focuses exclusively on dinosaurs. At Pembina Gorge, volunteers can dig up sea life from 80 million years ago, like giant squid and mosasaurs. The Medora dig, near Theodore Roosevelt National Park, uncovers swamp creatures from 55 million to 60 million years ago. And the Dickinson dig has the youngest mammal fossils, at 30 million to 40 million years old. Volunteers can join for one day or stay the entire five days. At 7:30 on the morning of the Dickinson dig, I meet up with the paleontologists in the parking lot of the North Dakota Heritage Center & State Museum in Bismarck, off a highway dotted with chain stores and hotels. A group email had informed volunteers about what to wear (closed-toe shoes, long pants, brimmed hats), what to bring (plenty of water), what not to bring (iPods and headphones), and what to watch for (rattlesnakes, prickly pear cactus). Our car convoy heads west on I-94 following their truck, which stands out from the sea of trucks on the highway thanks to its trailer hauling a black fat-wheeled utility task vehicle. The landscape changes as soon as the sprawl of big-box stores and Bismarck roadways disappears in the rearview mirror. The nearly 100-mile drive dispels any myth that North Dakota is flat. As I follow the convoy in my rental car, we pass rolling hills with emerald-green grass, farmhouses dotting acres of fields, and wild, rocky landscapes. Tall signs advertising the Medora Musical, a popular Western cabaret show, and the Enchanted Highway, a scenic route dotted with large sculptures, punctuate a big sky with swift-moving clouds. The convoy — eight adults, including a mother with an adolescent boy — turns off the highway and ventures into farmland, kicking up rocks and dust on unmarked roads before parking in a green field that slants upward. We outfit ourselves with awls, brushes, picks, trowels and collection vials. We hike 15 minutes through prairie pastures before arriving at our test site, a flat and dry former pond, where the paleontologists can observe our techniques as we scour the ground inch by inch in search of tiny fossils, which initially appear quite similar to rocks. The paleontologists hold unabashedly nerdy debates about whether dinosaurs had feathers in between effortless explanations of terminology and time periods for the novices in the group. Their well of patience and enthusiasm seems endless as they examine countless pieces of rock we volunteers mistakenly present as fossils. A group of elk watches with interest from a far-off plateau as we crawl in a prairie field where cows graze. For every dozen rocks that look like bones, there is one legitimate fossil. Finding that first fossil is crucial, however, because after that, everything clicks into place. Suddenly, the array of tan rocks starts to look more like shapes and small bones, and people start to differentiate previously imperceptible changes in color and texture.
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I HAVE A GREATER APPRECIATION OF OUR FLEETING PLACE IN HISTORY, OUR SMALLNESS ON THIS EARTH AND HOW MUCH THERE IS LEFT TO DISCOVER ABOUT THE
From there, we hike and take turns in the two-seater terrain vehicle to reach more dig sites up into the badlands. The group splits into pairs and heads for different regions, each accompanied by a paleontologist. During the next six hours, my mind flashes back to the rhinos I had seen in Botswana and Namibia, majestic and awe-inspiring. I try to picture them stamping along these fields, their strong, stumpy legs trotting where I now sit, surrounded by creatures that no longer exist. I ask the paleontologists about dinosaurs, geology, science, the state and whatever else comes to mind. The conversation gets existential at times, as six-hour conversations tend to do, and we wonder who would be digging up our bones millions of years from now and what kind of snap judgments they would make about our time here on Earth. An hour into excavating, I find the rhino rib cage that I have unearthed is more whole than anyone expected, which means I have to dig directly into the mountain instead of chipping pieces near the surface. A few hours and several blisters later, an unmistakable hip bone with a ball socket pops out of the rock, accompanied by a two-inch piece of dismantled spine. The rhino, it seems, had a tough 34 million years. While rhinos in the area are commonplace (along with saber-tooth cats and mesohippus, three-toed horses standing about two feet tall) other public digs have unearthed many surprises. The Pembina Gorge dig near Canada excavated a species of mosasaur, a sea creature similar to a very large Komodo dragon with flippers, which had never before been found in North Dakota. In Watford City, a small community northwest of Bismarck, a group discovered one of the most complete fossil birds ever found in the state. Bird skeletons are extremely rare (their light and hollow bones rarely survive the test of time), so the paleontologists haven’t yet been able to identify it. But at 60 million years old, this mystery bird existed just after the dinosaurs went extinct. The dig south of Bismarck went back even further, uncovering bones from the edmontosaurus, a duck-billed dinosaur that averaged 30 to 40 feet in length. For those familiar with North Dakota history, dinosaurs are just a part of life. Museums across the state present fossils that could easily join a collection in the American Museum of Natural History. The Dickinson Museum Center, for example, has 11 full-scale skeletons and an impeccable triceratops skull that looms large over display cases of beautiful geodes, which seem to garner more attention from local visitors. “We have so many incredible dinosaur resources in the state,” says Kim Schmidt of the North Dakota Department of Commerce’s Tourism Division, “that I think sometimes
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANIE OSBORNE/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX
people forget this is unusual — that you can’t find what we have everywhere.” But there is one dinosaur that can impress even the most nonchalant of North Dakotans. Dakota, the 67-million-year-old mummified hadrosaur, a duck-billed dinosaur, was discovered on a ranch near Marmarth, a city in the far southwest of North Dakota. This “dino mummy” is one of the most important discoveries of its kind; it was found with a layer of preserved skin and tendons. Dakota is on display at Bismarck’s Heritage Center & State Museum, an impressive contemporary building with a thorough dinosaur exhibit that covers the state’s entire paleontological history. North Dakota is part of the Hell Creek Formation, a set of rocks from a geological period that records the very last slice of time before the dinosaurs went extinct. For paleontologists, digging around the state offers a more comprehensive twist. It has the Hell Creek Formation layer of ground, the extinction layer and a thick Paleocene layer on top. This means that they can study the last generation of dinosaurs as well as the flora and fauna that survived them. By holding digs across the state, paleontologists can gain insight into an intriguing and mysterious window in time. As Boyd puts it: “Having a nice complete section means we can look at exactly what happens to the mammals, the turtles, the fish, the plants. In North Dakota, you can study the extinction and what that did to the entire fauna better than you can in a lot of places in the country.” Deep down — very deep down, hundreds of feet in some cases — there are dinosaurs almost everywhere. Digs in the southwest and south-central parts of the state frequently turn up dinosaur fossils. A good fossil is one that was buried quickly by the elements, avoiding predators and scavengers. North Dakota had a large delta during the Hell Creek Formation, which occurred
roughly 65.5 million years ago. Rain and sediment washed carcasses from shorelines into moving water, which buried them and effectively preserved them for eternity. On a public dig in 2015, Barnes and her crew discovered a mosasaur that would have been between 33 and 49 feet long, “a big sea monster,” she affectionately calls it. They unearthed most of its skull and a large portion of its neck and shoulder, with most of the bones articulated. When Barnes was cleaning the neck jacket in the lab, she noticed something. “There were six cervical vertebra all in a row, and there were massive tooth marks on the bottom side of the neck,” she says. “Something had chomped on the neck of this particular creature. It’s got a pathology, which is kind of neat.” The public digs attract all kinds of people. There’s a core group of dedicated volunteers who sign up each summer, driving from the far reaches of neighboring states to work on bones that will one day go on display in a North Dakota museum. Then there are summer road trippers, seeking a unique experience on their way to Yellowstone. There are tourists looking for a day activity from Bismarck or Theodore Roosevelt National Park and, on occasion, travelers from abroad. There are dinosaur-obsessed children, of course, but an equal number of dinosaur-obsessed parents, like the mother with her son in our convoy. Then there’s me, the East Coast journalist with a penchant for seeking new adventures in remote locations. At the end of the day, I leave the dig dusty, blistered, sunburned, scraped and exhausted, but thrilled with everything I’ve seen and learned. I have a greater appreciation of our fleeting place in history, our smallness on this Earth and how much there is left to discover about the places we think we know. This article is reprinted in collaboration with The New York Times.
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LAVIE ENROSE FINDING MY FIRST LOVE A SECOND TIME. BY STEVE HOFFMAN
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The Porsche, the Benz, the Beemer, the Harley, the big black truck: all of the standard American midlife-crisis autos are variations on the same theme. Their purpose is to wrap the softening, slow-moving, sparse-haired 50-something male frame in a hard, shapely carapace that says, more or less transparently, “Don’t look there; look here.” Here is how fast I used to run. Here is how beautiful the lines of my torso were. Here is what a monster I was coming off the line of scrimmage. Here is how people used to stop and stare. My own midlife crisis happened in France, during a six-month family stay in rural Languedoc, where the rules of midlife crises are generally the same, if expressed in their own regional idiom. Mine proceeded like so many others: a certain longing for something I’d had when I was younger. A bit of surreptitious online browsing. Photos exchanged. A rendezvous secured. Thoughts of love and possession. I had fallen in love once before in France, some 30 years ago. I spent nine months of my 22nd year in Paris, visiting the elderly for the Little Brothers of the Poor. It was where I learned to speak French, in dimly lit living rooms full of furniture from other centuries, with people who wanted to talk about anything at all for as long as I would stay and who sometimes wouldn’t have another guest until my next visit. I arrived in Paris barely conversational and left fluent. In the course of my work, I drove so extensively around the city that my Parisian colleagues started asking me for directions. The car I drove was a Renault 4: a dark blue, bulbous, compact sort of proto-SUV with skinny tires, a rackety underpowered engine, and a manual gearshift mounted into the dashboard that required a laborious process of pushing and pulling to wrestle the car up through its gears. She seduced me. She was my regular companion, my partner
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in crime. She drove me reliably to scheduled appointments and naughtily to stolen hours in cafés, where she stood by as I snuck a cigarette and a grand crème over several pages of Camus. She represented all of Paris, all of its inconvenient, stubborn, mundane glamour. Thirty years later, married, with two kids, on a very different kind of adventure — an adventure about family and legacy and finding domesticity in a foreign place — I found my old love online. There she was, posing in three-quarter profile: elegantly upright, a little dented, white this time (but don’t we all grow a little white with age?). Her birthdate was 1988, and her nickname was Savane. She jumped out from a list of thumbnail photos on a website called Le Bon Coin (the French equivalent of Craigslist), and all the neurons fired in that corner of the id that convinces middle-aged men the world over of the absolute rightness of their most adrenal and impulsive decisions. It was true love. There could be no question. The day of our meeting was brilliantly sunny, a remnant late-September ember of summer heat chilled by a steady wind sliding down from the shoulders of the Pyrenees and across the Mediterranean coastal plain. With a little twist in my stomach made of combined excitement at this new thing in my life and fear that I was doing something I might regret, I walked out our front door onto Avenue de la Liberté in the tiny village our family had called home for the past two months and held the passenger door open for my wife, Mary Jo, as our two kids piled into the back seat of our rented, sensible, roomy, late-model crossover. I got behind the wheel, set the GPS for Pézenas and leaned over to give Mary Jo a kiss on the cheek. “Thank you for understanding,” I said. “Let’s go meet her,” she replied.
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Some very unsettling things were happening in Black River Falls, Wisconsin, from 1890 to 1900: epidemics, insanities, suicides, burnings, bank closings, early deaths. This darker side of life was chronicled in the 1973 book Wisconsin Death Trip, a poetic and disturbing collection of photography and newspaper accounts about life in small-town America. The tome struck a cord and quickly became a cult classic. And now, 45 years later, the fascination continues. But why? “I’m not really sure,” confesses author Michael Lesy. “The book took on a life of its own for reasons beyond me.” Now a professor of literary journalism at Hampshire College in Amherst, Massachusetts, the 73-year-old surmises that “maybe it reminds people of their own predicament, this gigantic, relentless nightmare of being alive.” It all started quite by accident in 1968, when Lesy was a college student in Madison. Bored one day, he found himself at the Wisconsin Historical Society. He remembers the space was dark and empty. Janis Joplin was playing somewhere in the distance. He met curator of iconography Paul Vanderbilt, who introduced him to an archive by turn-of-the-century portrait photographer Charles Van Schaick. “I thought some of the studio portraits were pretty amazing.” Lesy recalls. “The whole experience that day seemed like a separate universe.” Intrigued by these striking images, he wanted to know more. So he scoured spools of microfilm and read countless newspapers from that time period. What he found were often haunting, dryly written accounts of the harsh existence in this small Wisconsin town: banks closing, children dying of disease, admissions to the local asylum — the American dream gone wrong.
Van Schaick was the ultimate small-town photographer, in the business of creating visual records made to order: births, marriages, families, businesses, homes, even horses as visual proof of their breeding potential. He wasn’t trying to be an artist, just a competent county photographer. His portraits show basic ideas of form and composition but were intended simply to freeze a moment in time, to preserve a likeness. “Commercial photography, as practiced in the 1890s, was not so much a form of applied technology as it was a semi-magical act that symbolically dealt with time and mortality,” Lesy writes in the book’s introduction. This description is particularly apt when it comes to creating postmortem portraits of children. Heartbreaking images of small babies posed inside their tiny, satin-lined caskets. Even side-by-side coffins of siblings who had died together. Although these images may seem harsh to modern eyes, back then they were acts of love. So many children were dying of diphtheria in the 1890s, and grieving parents wanted physical records that their children had existed. Family snapshots had not yet been invented, so these formal portraits of death were the only visual reminders of what their loved ones looked like. All told, Van Schaick left behind 30,000 glass plate negatives when he died in 1940. They sat in his studio for 30 years until the Wisconsin Historical Society salvaged 8,000 of them. Of those, Lesy chose fewer than 200 for his book. We see a stern-looking woman with a vacant glare posing in a doorway. Young men in formal suits standing amidst a sea of deer mounts. A young mother’s face with searching eyes. These seemingly timeless visual touchstones are the kinds of images that stay with you. “The idea of trusting what you see is crucial to this kind of work,” posits Lesy. “It’s neurological — registering in the present, but it’s about the past.”
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY | WHS-28724 AND WHS-28597
The Photography
PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY | WHS-28921
The Written Word
The Badger State Banner was a weekly newspaper tasked with reporting both the mundane and the morose goings-on in Black River Falls and surrounding Jackson County. It was edited by Frank Cooper and his son George. They told their stories in small chunks of copy, written in a pared-down, matter-of-fact style. Nuggets of daily life chronicled tales of arson, murder and madness swirling around this small Northern town. Often they were turning deeply personal matters like suicide and mental illness into public conversations, confirming the many whispers people had already heard. And yet, these news tidbits were also a way for the community to collectively share in their plight. This weekly dose of reality was delivered in a most distinctive tone. “The major voice that drones throughout the 10 years of loss and disaster — cold, sardonic and clear, like black marble — belongs to Frank Cooper,” Lesy writes in Wisconsin Death Trip. “His blocks of prose are veined here and there by the acute, sensual style of a novelist.” As it turns out, there were many of these news nuggets from which to choose. All across America, financial difficulties were causing banks to close. This depression hit Black River Falls hard. Area businesses were closing down; people were out of work. The mostly German and Norwegian immigrants endured long, bleak winters in this isolated landscape. And when disease ravaged the community, all seemed hopeless. This was not the new opportunity they had traveled across an ocean to find.
The Alchemy
It’s hard to categorize Wisconsin Death Trip. Is it history? Poetry? Photojournalism? There’s something about the way the images and text are combined. We see pages of compelling photography, yet no captions to indicate who these people are. We read newspaper snippets and wonder which faces might possibly connect with which stories, if any at all. It’s all left to our imagination. It’s an “alchemy,” as Lesy calls it, of carefully chosen fragments of history layered together. “It’s a way of using pictures and words to tell a story, a history,” he notes. “I wanted to provide people with an experience.” The author explains that the book’s overall theme is “death and rebirth.” It’s divided into five distinct parts: The introduction and conclusion have to do with being born and dying young, while the middle three chapters delve into how men and women come together and apart. There are also five distinct voices that guide readers: the father-and-son newspaper editors, a medical-records keeper for the state mental asylum, a town historian and a town gossip. When asked about the book’s title, Lesy pinpoints the phrase to the time period and the counterculture cravings of the 1960s. “Oh yes, my friends and I did drugs, certainly acid,” the author admits candidly. “We all tripped.”
“LA CROSSE WAS SOMEWHAT AGITATED LAST WEEK BY AN
ALLEGED GHOST, MANIFESTING ITSELF BY THE
USUAL SYMPTOMS.” 3/13, STATE
“JOHN KUCH, A FARMER LIVING IN THE TOWN OF OAKLAND, WAS FOUND IN HIS BARN THE OTHER MORNING
HANGING BY HIS NECK. … NO CAUSE WAS KNOWN. ABOUT 12 YEARS AGO, HIS FATHER
HANGED HIMSELF IN THE SAME BARN.” 1/16, LOCAL
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“A WOMAN WAS RECENTLY FOUND WANDERING ABOUT THE STREETS OF EAU CLAIRE WITH A
DEAD BABY IN HER ARMS. SHE WAS FROM CHIPPEWA COUNTY AND HAD LOST HER HUSBAND AND WAS
DESTITUTE.” 7/5, STATE
“THE MALIGNANT
DIPHTHERIA EPIDEMIC IN LOUIS VALLEY,
LA CROSSE COUNTY, PROVED FATAL TO ALL THE CHILDREN IN MARTIN MOLLOY’S FAMILY, FIVE IN NUMBER.
THREE DIED IN A DAY. THE HOUSE AND FURNITURE [WERE] BURNED.” 10/1, STATE
HAVE CLOSED.” 8/24, STATE
“THE 60-YEAR-OLD WIFE OF A FARMER IN JACKSON, WASHINGTON COUNTY,
KILLED HERSELF BY
CUTTING HER THROAT WITH A
SHEEP SHEARS.” 8/3, STATE
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY | WHS-23745
“THE BANK OF BLACK RIVER FALLS, CAPITAL $10,000, AND THE BANK OF ELLSWORTH, CAPITAL $35,000,
The Art
Lesy has always insisted that Wisconsin Death Trip was not just a portrait of one particular town but rather the psyche of a group of people who lived in a certain time and place. “It was the state of the whole region,” the author reminds us. “The book is about all of us; it’s our shared history — the whole catastrophe.” In the 45 years since the book was published, he has not returned to Black River Falls. And while it’s been more than a century since these particular inhabitants of this Northern town were alive, he wonders if the emotional history hasn’t lingered all these years later. “All that dreadful stuff is likely still alive and well in terms of trauma memory,” he posits. There has always been something cinematic about the sequencing of the book: patterns and rhythms of life. Simultaneous dream and nightmare. In fact, Lesy first imagined Wisconsin Death Trip as a movie back in 1968; a lack of financing prevented it from coming to fruition. But in 1999, a movie was made. Not by Lesy, but by British director James Marsh. The mostly black-and-white docudrama combines re-enactments of the book’s newspaper accounts accompanied by distinctly dry narration. An arthouse success, it has been featured on Netflix in recent years and is available for viewing on YouTube. Although these days Lesy is busy working on other books, Wisconsin Death Trip continues to send tentacles out into the world. It has inspired a number of musical works, including opera, bluegrass and even a song from a British post-punk band. It has been made into a dance. Many novelists have cited it as inspiration, among them Stephen King, who credits the tome as an influence for the novella 1922. Even the Bob Dylan biopic I’m Not There used visual elements from the book. “The only reason to do art is to make more art,” Lesy concludes. “The book has spawned dozens of different art forms. It’s radioactive; it has a life.”
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ART
WA L KA B L E EXPERIENCE
Hennepin Theatre Trust’s Made Here is a walkable urban art experience that invigorates downtown Minneapolis for all to enjoy. The celebrated tenth round and current installation, Avenues, features the work of local community organizations and Minnesota artists. Their works explore the theme “avenues” — a way of approaching a problem or making progress toward something. Twice per year, Made Here transforms windows and other underused spaces throughout downtown with art made by local artists.
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Photo by Steven Lang. Made Here Showcase by The Illuminated Reef Collective.
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3/27/18 1:52 PM
Intel N O R T H N O T A B L E S
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NORTH
NOTABLES THE REGION’S BEST AND BRIGHTEST. B Y K AT I E D O H M A N
Joe Mauer M I N N E S O TA T W I N S
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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE MINNESOTA TWINS
Twins fans have watched St. Paul’s hometown boy Joe Mauer grow up out on the field. No longer a breakout rookie, he has matured into not only a statesman in the last year of his contract but also a husband, a father and a philanthropist. “It’s been a unique perspective for me,” he says. “It literally hits close to home: I can see the impact my service has had over the years on our community.” He’s seen the growth working with the Highland Friendship Club, a group cofounded by his best friend’s mother, Pat Leseman, that offers age-appropriate social activities for youth with disabilities. “It’s a special group that is close to my heart,” he notes. “It has been a lot of fun to see these kids turn into young adults and watch how much they’ve progressed.” And his signature Mauer and Friends Kids Classic at Target Field has also grown, in part thanks to insight from his wife, Maddie, who is a nurse at beneficiary Gillette Children’s. He’s also partnered with the league on the Minnesota Action Team, whose aim is to get kids volunteering in their communities. “My life has changed a lot in the past 15 years; I have a wife and kids, and I’m aware of the examples I set,” he says. “Hopefully I can help others get involved, too. It’s pretty special for me to play in the community I grew up in, and I try to make a difference with the platform I’ve been given. When my playing years are done, I’m sure I’ll do more. I’m proud of where I grew up and happy to do whatever I can.”
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Landyn Hutchinson L I V I N G W I T H L A N DY N
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
One morning during Super Bowl week in the Bold North, Landyn Hutchinson was having a full-circle moment. Standing in front of a sold-out crowd of fans of Living With Landyn, her lifestyle blog, she was kicking off the day with shots of ginger juice. The day didn’t let up until around 6 p.m., when they celebrated with cocktails and confetti. “I’m just a girls’ girl,” she says from her home in Nashville, Tennessee, where she and her husband, former Viking Steve Hutchinson, moved after he retired. “But I turned into a personal shopper, best friend and therapist.” Even three years ago, when she was consigning clothes to save for a website and sharing recipes on Facebook, she couldn’t have dreamed of this. But her Minnesota event sold out in less than two minutes. “It just really was this Oprah-like moment,” she exclaims. “I am the luckiest girl on the planet.” Now, as her husband embraces his retirement, she has book, podcast and national tour plans in the works. And while she might know the perfect white T-shirt or the best under-eye concealer, she also wants to combat the manufactured perfection people tend to see online. “It’s a lot of conversations being real with these women,” she explains, while also admitting that her nine Instagram squares are always perfect. “But my Instagram Stories show me burning dinner. It’s like a boomerang: I put so much energy and good stuff out there, and all that’s coming back to me.”
Kayla O’Rourke
THE BAR METHOD TWIN CITIES
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
Usually when you hear about finding a community while bellying up to a bar, something of the corner-pub variety comes to mind. Turns out there’s a healthier alternative: The Bar Method Twin Cities, where members instead belly up to a barre to complete hour-long isometric classes that promise to elongate, strengthen, and build grace and poise for a lifetime of mind and body wellness. “We often call it the type-A workout,” says owner Kayla O’Rourke. “Our workout never becomes easier, but don’t let that turn you away. You will feel constantly and continually challenged on multiple levels, and in a way that could become a healthy addiction.” The studio hosts clients from age 15 to 78 and often attracts medical professionals, physical therapists and more on account of the physical therapist–approved workouts and the deep understanding of wellness. “Our on-staff physical therapist evaluates every exercise, telling us which ones we can combine to keep joints and bodies from getting hurt,” she notes. On top of that, teacher certification requires six months versus the one to three weeks that many other programs require. This enables instructors to master not only the art of teaching but also the art of client connection and how to weave together an efficient, effective workout with a sense of community. O’Rourke prides herself on the community feel at her North Loop studio and loves seeing that focus expand to the new Edina locale. Even if you’ve tried aerobics, distance running, high-intensity interval training, P90X, TRX, Pilates, yoga or even personal training, she says, “you won’t see results like the ones you get with the Bar Method.” Trust her — she did the legwork.
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Barbara Marshall, Kip Clayton, Donna Fahs and Alan Ackerberg
P A R A S O L E C O N S U LT I N G Chino Latino, Manny’s Steakhouse, Pittsburgh Blue, Salut Bar Americain: Parasole has launched some of the most memorable eateries in town — as well as the marketing campaigns behind them. But perhaps the restaurant group’s best-kept secret is that it has consulted on plenty of others, too. “For 40 years, we’ve created many different brands from ground zero,” explains Kip Clayton, vice president of marketing and partner in Parasole Consulting. “We bring the same talent to bear on client projects as we do to our own projects.” In fact, the group does it all, from launching restaurants to breathing new life into struggling concepts. “The process is not transporting Parasole mentality or culture; it’s understanding the market, the business, and the client’s vision and objectives,” he says. “An architect won’t tell you what a house should look like; she will spend time with you and translate that into the design.” Consulting projects can last weeks to years and include everything from identifying markets and concepts to creating brands, developing menus and performing operations audits. “Fast-forward to management and systems training as well as supporting the client during the restaurant opening,” adds chief development officer and partner Alan Ackerberg. “We have a massive breadth and wealth of expertise and experience across multiple brands in multiple states. We draw upon the resources in all of our restaurants — general management, social-media pros, chefs — whatever specific expertise clients need.” The secret weapon? Empathy. “It’s hard to run a restaurant and make a dollar,” Ackerberg notes. “We do reasonably well. We get satisfaction in getting our cadre of consulting clients doing that, too.”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SPACECRAFTING
Jaime and Marc Langva WO R KO P T I O N A L When it comes to wealth management, WorkOptional founders and certified financial planners Jaime and Marc Langva say it’s time to think differently. Instead of narrowly defining wealth with the stats of dollars, stocks and bonds, people should widen the lens on their financial landscape. “Often, people don’t take into account time and energy — the wealth they are putting into their lives,” says Jaime. “The whole idea behind WorkOptional is this: How do you transfer that time into dollars for more time and energy to do what you want?” They rarely talk about stocks and bonds, though they may be a piece of the puzzle. Portfolio isn’t a common word around the office, either. Marc might encourage a client to invest in farmland, Ferraris, watches or rare whiskies — after all, he does. “It’s about making small smart decisions that add up to create a better life,” he explains. “That’s what we’re offering.” Their definition of wealth expands beyond traditional assets to also include the richness that comes from a sense of happiness, contentedness, good health and diminished stress. “Once you focus on the roots, the other investments come,” Jaime says, drawing on her decades of experience. Even clients use a totally different vocabulary. Instead of focusing on retirement, they’re simply looking forward to the day when work becomes optional. How’s that for a choice?
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A D V E R T I S E R
248
I N D E X
10,000 Lakes Concours d’Elegance, 8–9
Halunen Law, 54
R.F. Moeller Jeweler, 77
2nd Shade Patio Furniture, 205
Heidi Libera Contemporary Landscape Paintings, 82
Rabbit Creek, 213
365 Nicollet, 30
Heidi Mckeown Art, 232
Ramsey Engler, 213
6Smith, 222
Heinrich + Schultz, 61
Rehkamp Larson Architects, 39
Abitare Design Studio, 61
Hendel Homes, 12
ResTech Systems, 223
All Seasons Fireplace, 172
Hennepin Theatre Trust, 239
ReVamp! Salon Spa, 220
ALL, Inc., 28
Hewing Hotel, 246
Revision, 249
American Society of Interior Designers, 178
Highmark Builders, 35
RLH Studio, 34
Art Resources Gallery, 172
Hoffmann Executive Suites, 78
Rosenthal Interiors, 121
Artful Living Travel Sweepstakes, 197
Holly Hunt, 66
Royal Building Products, 175
Artisan Home Tour, 85
Indulge & Bloom, 60
Rubble Tile, 196
Aulik Design Build, 251
International Market Square, 6–7
Sanctuary Salonspa, 187
Blackbox Container Studios, 186
InVision Distinctive Eyewear, 86
Scheherazade Jewelers, 79
Bluefin Bay Family of Resorts, 78
Ispiri, 109
Southview Design, 231
Borton Volvo, 87
Jaguar Minneapolis, 212
Spacecrafting, 161
Bridgewater Bank, 39
JB Hudson Jewelers, 2–3
Spell Estate, 178
Bruce Kading Interior Design, 65
John Kraemer & Sons, inside back cover
Stonewood, 247
Calhoun Beach Athletic Club, 82
Katie Bassett Interiors, 239
Studio M Interiors, 53
Charles Cudd Co., 25
Keenan & Sveiven Landscape Architecture, 107
Sunrise Banks, 108
Charles R. Stinson Architecture + Design, 17
Kolbe Windows & Doors, 229
Swan Architecture, 120
Charlie & Co. Design, 188
Kroiss Development, 224
Talla Skogmo Interior Design, 196
Chazin Interiors, 220
Kurt Baum Architects, 71
The Hotel Landing, 121
Christopher Cardozo Fine Art, 230
Land Rover Minneapolis, inside front cover, 1
The Knobbery, 107
Citizens Bank, 238
Landmark Build Co., 194
The Living Room / Prohibition Bar, 47
Crutchfield Dermatology, 15
Lecy Bros. Homes & Remodeling, 203
The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago, 80
David Heide Design Studio, 54
Lucy Interior Design, 169
The Sitting Room, 71
Deer Hill Preserve, 4–5
Luther Infiniti of Bloomington, 27
Top Shelf, 187
Denali Custom Homes, 211
Mahogany Bay, 204
Total Luxury Limousine, 223
Distinctive Drywall & Painting, 195
Martha O’Hara Interiors, 56
Tradition Capital Bank, 34
DOM Interiors, 21
Martin Patrick 3, 13
Tres Sports, 168
Elevation Homes, 23
Max’s, 232
Twin City Fireplace & Stone, 162
Elite Destination Homes, 86
Minnetonka Travel, 204
U.S. Bank FlexPerks, 94
Eminent Interior Design, 162
Morrie’s Luxury Auto, 10
Union Place, 210
Erickson Outdoor Lighting, 179
Muska Lighting, 163
Urban Eatery, 220
Erotas Custom Building, 164
Nancy Norling, DDS, 55
Vujovich Design Build, 38
Executive Health Care, 169
Nob Hill, 195
Warners’ Stellian, 11
Feldmann Imports, 42
Nor-Son Custom Builders, 19
Westin Edina Galleria, 106
Finance of America Mortgage, 221
Parasole Restaurant Holdings, 93
Wings Financial Credit Union, 65
Gabberts Design Studio & Fine Furniture, 29
Pink Wealth Management Group, 190
Wixon Jewelers, back cover
Gianni’s Steakhouse, 108
Prestige Pools, 190
Wooddale Builders, 64
Hagstrom Builder, 48
Pure Lux, 168
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design & renovate 612-462-4000 www.RevisionMN.com 153 E. Lake St., Wayzata
C L O S I N G
R E M A R K S
Off the Grid I recently lost my phone in Shanghai. After the initial shock, I fell into five stages of grief. Denial: I double-checked my luggage and my person. Anger: I scolded myself for being so irresponsible. Bargaining: I attempted to convince myself this wasn’t a big deal and began contemplating how I was going to live without it. Depression: I felt dejected as I considered the consequences of being out of contact. Acceptance: I took responsibility for being so careless. Then I settled into a pre-Internet way of life that felt oddly soothing. I had to figure out trains, planes and automobiles without translation apps, Google or Siri. On average, we check our phones every 12 minutes. Many of us sleep with or next to them. For some, it’s like playing a slot machine for hopeful rewards — the chance for emails, texts, likes and follows. This constant buzz of fast and shallow communication can make us anxious and weaken our attention span. One of my biggest pet peeves is when someone sends a “call me” text. It’s lazy and absurd. This type of behavior is called bread crumbing: when people get our attention with erratic, noncommittal messages that are enough to keep us wondering but not enough to make anything happen. On my journey home from China, I did a lot of thinking. With no Internet access, I decided to focus on our content for our summer issue. I re-read The Great Gatsby and an F. Scott Fitzgerald biography. As most know, this St. Paul son is considered one of America’s preeminent authors. I thought about life during the Roaring Twenties. I also learned that after he completed his greatest masterpiece, Fitzgerald’s life began to unravel. He died of a heart attack in 1940 at age 44, believing himself a failure since none of his works achieved more than modest critical success during his lifetime. Several months ago, gifted writer Chris Clayton pitched us a story idea about how life around White Bear Lake in the 1920s inspired Fitzgerald to write The Great Gatsby. We decided it was a feature-worthy. It turned out to be a brilliant account of the author’s early years in the North. When I returned home from China, I intentionally waited a couple days to replace my phone. I emerged calmer and brighter, with new insight into what is important and what can wait. When my new phone arrived, I disabled alerts, notifications and location services. I even silenced my ringer. This has prevented a nonstop waterfall of noisy nonsense and has allowed me some undistracted time for myself. Old habits have begun creeping in, but I’m trying hard not to get suckered into always being “on.” I wonder if I can keep this up, and like many things in life, I sometimes miss the way things were before. It reminds me of Gatsby’s most famous line: “Can’t repeat the past? Why of course you can!” Cheers,
Frank Roffers Publisher + Editor-in-Chief
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— JACK KEROUAC
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEE THOMAS KJOS
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