Written by RICH MANNING
A gain for
NEUTRAL GRAIN How has the TTB's 2020 Standards of Identity change impacted craft vodka?
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The IMPACT of the REVISION
rior to April 2020, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) defined vodka through its stanFrom a practical standpoint, the TTB’s revision brings clarity to how vodka dards of identity as “to be without distinctive character, is perceived. “The scientific definition of vodka is one thing. The public’s defiaroma, taste, or color.” This description caused problems. nition is another,” said Umberto Luchini, founder of Wolf Spirit Distillery, in It didn’t necessarily hinder sales — it’s still the best-sellEugene, Oregon. “This created a disconnect within the category.” ing spirit in the US with nearly 80 million cases moved in The new definition helps to fix this disconnect. What’s more, it does so in 2020. But it hurt the spirit’s reputation within the industry a way that reaches down to the level of the consumer, who judges a vodka’s and among craft spirits geeks who unwittingly relegate the merit on taste rather than adherence to standards of identity. It’s a bridge spirit to be dull. The description also turned vodka into a that some craft distillers thought was a long time coming. “The TTB is comdreadful category to judge at spirits contests. If a tasting ing around to modern times by changing panel got the neutral grain spirit foisted the definition,” said Danette Newton, upon them for a round of assessment, othco-founder and CEO of Lass & Lions er tables would likely know about it due to Unfettered by the shackles of Vodka in Chattanooga, Tennessee. “In a the panel’s copious amounts of bitching. way, it almost felt inevitable.” restrictions on character, craft This changed on April 1, 2020, when While vodka’s new standard is more in the TTB revised its definition of vodka. In brands can potentially attain more tune with public perception, it doesn’t necan instant, the restrictions on distinctive essarily aid the casual vodka drinker. This character, aroma, taste, and color were confidence in how they present is fine — they bought vodka before the lifted. Judges rejoiced, or at the very least change, and they’re still buying vodka after their vodkas, particularly since became less salty about getting served vodthe change. The craft sector, on the other ka tastings. More importantly, the revision hand, stands to gain quite handsomely they no longer need to worry about caused excitement for craft distillers who from this revision. Unfettered by the shackhad devoted time trying to help the spirit a craft enthusiast busting their les of restrictions on character, craft brands overcome its reputation as liquid boredom. can potentially attain more confidence in chops over flavor or aromatics. As we approach the two-year anniversary how they present their vodkas, particularly of the change, the excitement hasn’t worn since they no longer need to worry about off yet, as the opportunity for advocacy a craft enthusiast busting their chops over on behalf of the oft-maligned spirit is still abundant. “The flavor or aromatics. This confidence could lead to the kind of deeply nerdy change matters to us, because there are still a ton of peoconversations traditionally reserved for other spirits. “There are all kinds of ple in the industry that just say, ‘vodka’s vodka,’” explained variables that go into producing a vodka, just like there are all kinds of variAndrew Bozcar, vice president of Grand Teton Distillery in ables that go into producing whiskey,” Bozcar stated. “But nobody ever talks Driggs, Idaho. “Nothing could be further from the truth.” about that. I’m hopeful that this eventually changes.” 62
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