Magazine1 eng by Segers Fabriker

p. 9 / Karl Ljung hunts and serves game. p. 14 / The chef’s jacket - details and its future. p. 20 / Fredrik Björlin on the experiment in Rättvik.

mag a zine

segers

Nº1 / 2016

SEGERS

INTRODUCTION

MAGAZINE

Some people want things to stay the way things have always been. Some people only want to have the best of the best. Some people would rather have the latest innovations. Including fashionable clothes. No-one can make a chef jacket that suits everyone. But seeing as we have our own production facilities, and continually listen to those of you who wear our clothes, we think we’re getting pretty close to that goal. We have a jacket for everyone. This magazine has all of our jackets, and a couple of chefs we met whilst we were out and about. You can find all our products at segers.com – both classics and modern.

Mia Kinn / Marketing Manager at Segers

HILLENBERG

SEGERS

“It is a wonderful feeling to get up early in the morning to go hunting, and then serve the meat to the guests in the evening.”

HILLENBERG

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KARL LJUNG HEAD CHEF / HILLENBERG

HILLENBERG

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HILLENBERG

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INTERVIEW / KARL LJUNG / HILLENBERG

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INTERVIEW / KARL LJUNG / HILLENBERG

“Red deer venison has a wildness about it that is absolutely magical.” Karl Ljung on game meat.

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Hillenberg has game on the menu. What does game mean to you? Game means a lot to me. Partly because it’s Swedish meat, obviously; that the animals live close by in the forests around us, and partly because the meat is completely free of all additives, stress or antibiotics. The animal also lives an incredibly good, free and natural life, right up until the moment it is quickly despatched. The killing is ethically correct and respectful to the animal. Then there’s the constant discussion about how much meat we should be eating, or if we should eat it at all. Personally, I’ve decided it’s OK that I eat meat, and I think that game is the best meat you can eat. It feels honest to nature, if you put it in perspective to the huge meat industry. Game is also a fantastically lean and tasty product. Do you hunt? Yes. We’ve now opened a restaurant, which takes a lot of time, so this year I haven’t been out more than twelve or thirteen times. But it is a wonderful feeling to get up early in the morning to go hunting, and then serve the meat to the guests in the evening. We hunt around an hour outside Stockholm on an estate run by owners who are involved in the whole process. They are eleventh generation, I think. People often don’t realise that it’s thanks to the driven estate and landowners that we even have game in Sweden. A hundred years ago, the forests were primarily empty of animals, due to a lack of food amongst the population - the majority of the animals were simply shot and eaten. Today we have elk, deer and other game animals thanks to our committed and involved estate owners who ensure they create a good balance for the plant and animal life in the forests. There are now also wolves who pick off some as prey for themselves, which closes the circle, but initially it was the landowners who recreated the animal life in the forest. Do the guests appreciate the game? Do the chefs get to experiment? My experience is that the guests appreciate the game in a fairly classical way. They don’t directly ask for new varieties, but mostly think it’s great to have game on the menu at all. Game sells well, but it has long been pretty difficult to get hold of Swedish game. The hunters keep a lot of the meat for themselves, at home in their chest freezers. For example,

we make our meatballs from venison and boar mince. It tastes different, and it also gives you the experience of knowing the animal has been running free in the forest. My children don’t want any other meat than game in their bolognese at home. Will game dominate the menu at Hillenberg? We will focus on game in the right periods of the year. The season is traditionally September to January. We won’t likely serve game all year round. It’s also something of a challenge to serve game when we’ve got three hundred covers in the restaurant. Game isn’t butchered in the same way as other meat in the industry, where all the sections are roughly the same size. If you get fifty kilos of venison silverside, it comes in extremely differing sizes, colours and textures. It takes a lot of time and needs large areas of workbench in the kitchen if you’re dealing with that many guests. But it is a great experience. Which meat is your personal favourite? Red deer venison. It has an incredibly beautiful gamey taste. It doesn’t have those powerful undertones, like you get in reindeer for example. Reindeer can almost be too gamey for my taste. Venison has a dark coloured flesh with a wild element to it that’s just magic. Generally, I believe here in the north we have the best game, even if I haven’t actually eaten game in every country around the world. But it’s kind of like seafood. Our cold climate somehow brings out the flavour. After all, elk hunting is a significant event around the country. Have we forgotten any animals? Aside from the red deer, I think wild boar is interesting. It is both tasty and the animals are spreading out widely throughout Sweden. Unfortunately we do not have a tradition of eating wild boar in Sweden, and it shows. We’ll have to learn how. For example, you could have a boar Christmas ham or cold cuts made from boar, but it’s easily overlooked. For us chefs, it’s about inspiring people to use more parts of the boar and game in general. To use more parts, experiment, ideally to not turn so much into mince. I mean, making sausages from boar meat is fabulous. I also hope that people will buy these unusual meats and animal parts, and support the landowners who want to develop new things. There’s already so much mass-produced Italian stuff in the food stores. Personally, I’d have loved to train in game charcuterie - that sounds great fun.

HILLENBERG

SEGERS

HILLENBERG

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CHEF’S JACKETS

SEGERS

1069 271 / CHEF’S JACKET. Stretch. Concealed, tapered closure with two hand-sewn fabric buttons that can handle mangling. Quality: 57% cotton/40% polyester/3% XLance. Size: C44-60. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. Rec. price: € 93,57

CHEF’S JACKETS

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1051 290 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE, STRETCH. Slim Fit. Breast pocket. One-way zip. Slits in the sides. Quality: 63% cotton/33% polyester/4% XLance. Size: C46-60. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price: € 59,40

INTERVIEW / DIME MENCEVSKI / SEGERS

SEGERS

INTERVIEW / DIME MENCEVSKI / SEGERS

“We developed along with the industry. Sometimes the chefs even take the pen and draw designs themselves.”

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Dime Mencevski – an expert in chef’s jackets? Haha, yes perhaps. Sales Manager is my official title - I’ve worked at Segers for over 20 years, so I’ve done my time here along with the product developers at the company. And I’ve spent a lot of time with the chefs too, for that matter. What do chefs in 2016 want to be wearing when they prepare food? There are as many preferences as there are restaurants, with different focuses. But the latest trend is primarily for the fit. Before, it was all about a straight-line jacket. A working garment that will be durable, wash after wash. But now the restaurant chef is something different. Nowadays the chefs almost work as if they are on a stage, with the guests looking on. Some even meet the guests to chat, so naturally, they want to look stylish and neat. It should be the right fit and be clean and fresh looking, just like kitchen hygiene in general. And some chefs even work in normal clothes? Absolutely, some restaurateurs are testing normal outfits in the kitchen. I don’t want to be negative about this - everyone should experiment. But the problem with fashionable clothes is that they’re exactly that - fashionable. They look great, but they’re not designed to cope with the rigours of washing that the restaurant world demands. Here at Segers, we look at new materials and shapes for our clothes, but we also have to remember that we’re dealing with work clothes. Before we showcase a new material, we have to guarantee that it will stand up to the washing process, night after night. Otherwise the restaurants would ring us after a few months to ask why their clothes were damaged. The shape is important of course, but it cannot take over at the cost of quality and function. That’s how we see it. What’s new this year? When it comes to the more narrow, fitted chef’s jacket, we have better stretch material than ever. The material copes with multiple washes, and at the same time, the chef doesn’t have to be as skinny as a rake or spend all their time down the gym to look good in a more dressed up style. It’s often simply enough to go up a size compared to a straight cut. For our premium jackets, we have mixed in design ideas from exclusive

shirts, which allows for a more dressy twist. The sleeves are more detailed than ever. The collar is strengthened with Vlieseline interfacing, which is glued to the inside of the fabric and then sealed in place with heat. This strengthens the collar and helps it keep its fixed shape, wash after wash. The collar won’t fall down and lie limply on the jacket - that would lose you the sense of aplomb. In total, there are between 20-30 parts of the jacket that have been redesigned in product development. Everything is important, and the jacket should help create professional pride. Is there any part you’re particularly proud of? The hand-sewn buttons. That kind of thing can’t be done by machine. It’s 100% hand-sewn, from bottom to top. Ten buttons on each jacket. Then you’ve also got the organic fabrics, obviously. We use organic cotton in some of our jackets. We’re also looking into recycled polyester. We use polyester in some of our jackets, and it has a durability that cotton can’t match. However, polyester can never be organic. But if we can use recycled polyester in our jackets, we can help the environment that way. What do you think of fashion and the development of the chef’s jacket? We work closely with the Chef Of The Year association, plus several personalities in the industry. They’re awesome at giving constructive criticism, I must say. Sometimes they even pick up a pen and draw their own requests. We’ve also released a sport-inspired chef’s jacket this year, with a zip instead of buttons. A very functional feeling, with stretch and other types of seams. The material has been tested by chefs and received top marks. We’re also quite far along with development of a ‘college jumper’ material that we want to test. Now all that’s left is to ensure the material meets the environmental and washing requirements. What’s it like working in a chef’s jacket made from the same material as a college sweatshirt? The fabric is very forgiving and gives great freedom of movement. A work shift in a restaurant kitchen can easily be like a session at the gym. It’d be great to test out.

CHEF’S JACKETS

SEGERS

1. 2030 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, MEN’S. 2035 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, WOMEN’S. Extra fine quality Batavia. Tapered closure. Hand-sewn, fabric buttons that can handle mangling. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: B44-56, C46-64, Women’s C36-50. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price: € 124,40 2. 1048 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, WOMEN’S. Extra fine quality Batavia. Slim Fit. Long sleeves with cuff, snap button and slits. Concealed closure with snap buttons. One visible snap button at collar. Breast pocket. White piping on yoke front/back, on sleeves. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: C34-50. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price: € 141,07 3. 1033 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Extra fine quality Batavia. Slim Fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Breast pocket. White piping on yoke front/back, on sleeves. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: C46-60. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price: € 124,40 4. 1034 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE, WOMEN’S. Extra fine quality Batavia. Slim Fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Breast pocket. White piping on yoke front/back, on sleeves. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: C34-50. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price: € 124,40

CHEF’S JACKETS

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1047 650 / CHEF’S JACKET. Extra fine quality Batavia. Slim Fit. Long sleeves with cuff, snap button and slits. Concealed closure with snap buttons. One visible snap button at collar. Breast pocket. White piping on yoke front/back, on sleeves. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: C46-60. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price: € 141,07

CHEF’S JACKETS

SEGERS

1053 201 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Slim Fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Quality: 65% polyester/35% cotton. Size: C44-60. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. Rec. price: € 23,57

CHEF’S JACKETS

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1. 1055 201 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Slim Fit. Piping on breast picket, one pen pocket. Concealed fastening, snap buttons, one visible at collar. Slits in the sides. Charcoal grey details at collar, pockets. Quality: 65% polyester/35% cotton. Size: C46-60. Colour: 000 white/charcoal grey woven check. Rec. price: € 49,88 2. 1601 201 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Straight cut. Removable stud buttons included. Button colour same as stud colour. Quality: 65% polyester/35% cotton. Size: C44–64. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. Rec. price: € 24,88 3. 1604 201 / CHEF’S JACKET, WOMEN’S. Classic cut, with bust darts, slightly waisted. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Quality: 65% polyester/35% cotton. Size: C36-50. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. € 24,88 4. 1607 201 / CHEF’S JACKET. Straight cut with seams at the back. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Quality: 65% polyester/35% cotton. Size: C44-64. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. Rec. price: € 24,88

INTERVIEW / FREDRIK BJÖRLIN / BOBERGS MATSAL

“I don’t care whether the mozzarella has turned into halloumi. You have to be bold and test.” Fredrik Björlin on experimentation. What is enjoyable about being a chef? There are many answers to that question, but one of the key points is that you always have the chance to try new thing. To learn something new. It’s actually offset by how many experiences you get in your job - you never stop learning as a chef, just as in many other industries. But being a chef itself, that’s really exciting to experiment with. It’s like a free time hobby, but instead it’s linked to my job. What do you like to experiment with yourself? Everything I can. The time when I took part in the Chef Of The Year competition was characterised by many tests and investigation around food. The 13 of us had the same mindset and were all obsessed with food. In theory, it was purely about shutting yourself in the basement, testing, tasting and then learning what you wanted to create. But personally I thought that our many trial attempts and curiosity contributed to why we were so successful in the competition. We wanted it so badly, and were spurred on by the competition atmosphere. You had to learn new things too. It was incredibly educational. And now? It’s been a few years of dried ham, cold cuts and charcuterie. Aside from that, I’ve tested two new things. Mozzarella and cider. It’s not at all at the same high level or under the same performance stresses as the competition, which is mostly down to curiosity. I do it firstly because it’s fun and only then do we see what it will become. For example, I tried the mozzarella together with a friend who has a summer farm outside Rättvik, where we have our summer place. Our basic situation and conditions were insanely good. Her cows roam around up in the forest all day and she usually makes cheese from their milk. So you just have to test out making mozzarella. How did the tests go? The cows were milked one morning, then we heated the milk. You add a starter culture, let it take effect and add rennet to the cheese to then form it into mozzarella balls. This was after all just a holiday project, and we didn’t have a pH meter. But if you don’t wait long enough and get the acid levels down enough, it’ll be halloumi instead of mozzarella. So we got a brutal batch of halloumi instead of the creamy, beautiful mozzarella we were expecting and hoping for. But like I say, this was our first attempt and a great holiday project.

Often - but not always - the quality was better for the guests. The restaurant visit can be more expensive, and as a restaurateur, you have to work out where the ‘pain boundary’ is. What do the guests think they’re paying for? It’s difficult. To walk the line. If you were to only check newspapers, blogs and Instagram, you’d be forgiven for thinking everyone was eating solely organic vegetarian food. On the other hand, it’s not going too badly these days for the meat-focused restaurants either. When guests order food, it’s not always the healthiest choice on the menu. Of course we try to make conscious choices and provide exciting dishes on the menu. But it’s also a difficult balance to maintain. The market, and what guests order - that’s what is the deciding factor. And will any of your projects find their way to Bobergs? Maybe! We work in a prestigious location and of course we want to serve up classic tastes that are classically recognisable. But at the same time, we want the space to think outside the box and change up the dishes in our own way. Our Baked Alaska, for example, doesn’t look like it did at the Stadshotellet in 1975. We wanted to adapt it into a more modern variation for 2016, and the same thing with the ‘Gubbröran’, or ‘Old Man’s Mix’ - finely chopped boiled eggs and anchovies. And it would be wonderful if we could serve homemade mozzarella at some point in the future.

SEGERS

I don’t care. You have to dare to experiment, and we’ll try something new soon. Are Swedish chefs humble enough to try something new? Hard to say. I can only answer for myself, when I was in the Chef Of The Year competition, and we encouraged each other to find new ways of making dishes. But nowadays, anyone can learn the basics of it all, even if you haven’t actually been to catering college. My wife, by the way, is a baker and confectioner, and was on the jury for the TV show Årets Sockerbagare, where children compete in a baking competition. It was frightening how talented these little kids were. They tempered chocolate as if they’d been doing it their whole lives, and when you asked them how they learned their skills, they just replied: “YouTube”. Nothing was a problem for them, they just took time to look for what they needed. Impressive. What won over the guests from all the chefs’ experimentation then?

INTERVIEW / FREDRIK BJÖRLIN / BOBERGS MATSAL

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FREDRIK BJÖRLIN CHEF / BOBERGS MATSAL

BOBERGS MATSAL

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BOBERGS MATSAL

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BOBERGS MATSAL

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BOBERGS MATSAL

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CHEF’S JACKETS

SEGERS

1. 1038 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE, WOMEN’S. Extra fine quality Batavia. Slim Fit. White piping around the collar. Hand-sewn, fabric buttons that can handle mangling. Slits on both sides at the front. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: C34-50. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price: € 124,40 2. 1039 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Extra fine quality Batavia. Slim Fit. White piping around the collar. Hand-sewn, fabric buttons that can handle mangling. Slits on both sides at the front. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: C46-60. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price € 124,40 3. 1037 621 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. ETwill. Short sleeves with raglan cut. Hanging loop in the collar. Concealed snaps. A hand-sewn fabric button in the neck that can handle mangling. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: C46-60. Colour: 000 white. Rec. price: € 58,10 4. 1030 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, MEN’S. 1032 650 / CHEF’S JACKET, WOMEN’S. Extra fine quality Batavia. Tapered closure. Piping around the collar, front edge, sleeves, cuffs. Hand-sewn, fabric buttons that can handle mangling. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality: 100% cotton. Men’s C46-60, Women’s C34-50. Colour: 015 black piping/white Rec. price: € 132,02

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