NÂş2 2018
segers maga zine
P10 / Restaurang Kometen. P16 / Segers – For a better world P22 / Gastronomy and marine biology below the waves
SEGERS
INTRODUCTION
MAGAZINE
According to a Latin proverb, “Times change, and we change with them.” In the vast majority of cases that’s true, but not always. For this edition of the magazine we have interviewed Snøhetta, the Norwegian architectural practice responsible for new restaurant Under, which sets new standards for what a restaurant can be. We have also taken our environmental and sustainability work a step further to ensure that you can wear our garments with an even clearer conscience. Last but not least, we have interviewed Janusz, a waiter with more than 30 years’ experience of the business, from celebrated restaurant Kometen in Gothenburg, where some things never change.
Mia Kinn / Marketing Manager at Segers
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1094 245 / 261 / SHIRT – WOMEN’S. Slim fit. Long sleeves with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop on outside of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 50/50 polyester/Tencel. Size C34-50. Colour 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black. 1091 245 / 261 / SHIRT – MEN’S. Slim fit. Long sleeves with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop on outside of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 50/50 polyester/Tencel. Size C44-60. Colour 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
StĂĽende bild
SEGERS
5330 201 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Classic straight cut. Removable black stud buttons included. Double pen pocket on left sleeve. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size: C44-C60. Colour: 002 navy, 014 grey, 024 sand, 028 brown, 041 red, 043 dark red, 086 olive. (This model is also available with long sleeves, art. no. 5331 201). 4574 201 / 280 / 628 / BIB APRON. Adjustable neck strap with buttons. No pockets. Quality 201/280 65/35% polyester/cotton, 628 100% cotton denim. Size: approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 000 white, 002 navy, 011 light grey, 014 grey, 015 black, 024 sand, 028 brown, 033 orange, 038 rust, 041 red, 043 dark red, 083 apple green, 086 olive, 076 dark blue.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
ALL COLOURS ART. NO. 4574. Colour: 000 white, 002 navy, 011 light grey, 014 grey, 015 black, 024 sand, 028 brown, 033 orange, 038 rust, 041 red, 043 dark red, 083 apple green, 086 olive, 076 dark blue.
Stående bild
MAGAZINE
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
1073 628 / CHEF’S JACKET, LONG SLEEVE. Classic straight cut. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Loop on outside of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 100% cotton denim. Size: C44-C60. Colour: 076 dark blue. 1706 628 / HAT. Elasticated back. Quality 100% cotton denim. Size: S/M (approx 54-58 cm), L/XL (approx 59-63 cm). Colour: 076 dark blue.
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SEGERS
Närbild
DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
1071 628 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Classic straight cut. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Loop on outside of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 100% cotton denim. Size: C44-C60. Colour: 076 dark blue. 4080 765 / BIB APRON. Braces adjusted with snap hooks at the front. Loops at the sides. Breast pockets, double pouch pocket. Quality 50/50% linen/cotton. Size: approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 002 navy marl.
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INTERVIEW / KOMETEN
SEGERS
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INTERVIEW / KOMETEN
Janusz and the angel of Kometen
MAGAZINE
In the unassuming dining room at Kometen on Vasagatan in Gothenburg, Janusz Tarnowski is preparing for an evening at work, like so many o ther serving staff at restaurants throughout the city. While for some it may be their first evening in the job, Janusz has a routine that’s hard to beat. He has worked at Kometen for over 30 years. Kometen was first opened as a restaurant in 1934 by Austrian Hans Breitneder. Hans, who was a musician, played at restaurants throughout Europe, accompanied by his wife and his sister-in-law. During a prolonged visit to Gothenburg, Hans passed by the building that houses the restaurant and hit upon the idea of entering the restaurant business. Even before Kometen became Kometen, the premises served as a restaurant in a unique housing experiment. The building contained 20 apartments, none of which had their own kitchen. The idea was that the building’s residents would order food from the restaurant on the ground floor and have it delivered to the apartment, where the table would be laid with a white tablecloth and silver cutlery. The idea never really took off, and in 1938 a new public entrance was created for paying customers off the street. That same year Hans employed Solvig Magnusson, who began her career at the restaurant as a cashier. Her dedication would prove valuable in securing the restaurant’s future. Following the death of Hans Breitneder in 1962, Solvig took over the business, which she then ran until her death in 2008 at the age of 91. “Solvig was an angel, both to customers and staff. I really enjoyed working for her, and it is because of Solvig that I’ve stayed here so many years,” says Janusz.
How do you think the waiting profession has changed in those years? “You have to know a lot more now, about both the food and drinks. Diners have a great deal more food knowledge these days. At the same time you have to be aware that not all diners want you to stand there and lecture them about what’s on the plate. You have to respect that and be able to tell how much information is required. As a waiter, however, I think it’s important to always have that knowledge ready to share. We also live in a fast-paced society today, which is evident during the lunchtime service. More customers are in a hurry now. You could take your time serving people when I first started in the business.” What type of service do customers want today? “There is a broader range of restaurants these days, and the waiting profession is also more wide-ranging. There are a lot of new places where the service is more relaxed, which suits that style of restaurant. I think variety is great, but the basics are still the same. We are here for the diner and have to ensure that diners leave happy, no matter what restaurant we work at. I’m a pupil of the old school, however. Everything has to be perfect when you sit down at the table. The cutlery must all be laid the same way. I was taught that at the Sheraton, and I still follow the same rules today. At the same time though, the experience has to be personal. I think that’s how you should experience Kometen. A high standard of service, delivered with real warmth. There are certainly a lot of diners who appreciate our style of service. Diners frequently tell us how much they enjoy coming to the restaurant; that they are coming to a place where they will be well looked after. We usually recognise a returning diner, and they can dine here again with confidence.”
How did you become a waiter? “A friend convinced me to start waiting tables. At that time I hadn’t long arrived in Sweden from Poland, and I had to learn Swedish quickly in order to get a job. After taking an upper secondary-level course for adults, I started as a trainee waiter at Europa Hotell and then moved to the Sheraton, which had recently opened here in Gothenburg. There was a head waiter named Lars at the Sheraton, who was very knowledgeable. I felt that he invested in me and I learned a great deal working alongside him. Lars was meticulous, and everything had to be done to a professional standard. That approach rubbed off on me.” And so you ended up at Kometen? “Yes, for a while I worked at a lot of different places, almost around the clock. It was exhausting and I wanted to work fixed hours. So I took a stroll down Avenyn and introduced myself to the various restaurant owners. Eventually I got to Kometen. I was offered work on a trial basis, but it would be a year before one of the older women retired and a job became available. Still, I worked the trial period and the restaurant kept its promise and took me on a year later. I’ve been here for over 30 years now.”
Is there anyone else who has worked at Kometen a long time? “Yes, there are four of us altogether who have worked here for between 20 and 30 years. It says a lot about the restaurant as an employer, and I find it has a number of advantages. For example, after a while you feel at home and you get to know both the staff and the diners on a deeper level. A kind of personal service develops, like a relationship, a feeling that’s impossible to achieve if you are new to a place. We are like a small family and we trust one another implicitly.” Kometen has been under new management since autumn 2017. Will anything change? “No. We want to continue to be this genuine restaurant, where you can always be sure of getting good food and good service. That goes for our regulars and all the new younger diners that we attract. As a restaurant we are a little out of the ordinary now, but we add something to what’s on offer in the city, and that’s a sense of what things used to be like. A little like Sturehof in Stockholm.”
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INTERVIEW / KOMETEN
SEGERS
Janusz Tarnowski
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INTERVIEW / DANIEL BERLIN
MAGAZINE
1380 515 / WAISTCOAT, MEN’S. Fitted style with collar. Breast pocket, side pockets, inside pocket. Adjustable pull tab at the back. Fully lined with 100% polyester. Quality 44/54/2% wool/polyester/lycra. Size: C44-58. Colour: 015 black. Women’s style also available, art. no. 1385 515.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
4667 201 / SOMMELIER’S APRON. Adjustable neck strap with buttons. Pen pocket on bib. Side pockets. Tie strap. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size: approx. 85 x 100 cm. Colour: 015 black. 1215 306 / SHIRT, MEN’S. Classic cut. Quality 60/40% cotton/polyester, fil-à-fil. Size: S-XXL. Colour: 000 white, 006 light blue, 053 cerise, 071 aqua, 078 midnight blue, 111 light grey. 1311 999 / TIE. Quality 100% polyester. Colour: 015 black.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
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SEGERS / ENVIRONMENT AND CSR
SEGERS
New shirt in Tencel®, available in men’s and women’s style (see page 4).
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SEGERS / ENVIRONMENT AND CSR
For a better world
MAGAZINE
The restaurant industry is careful about what is happening on the plate. Organic and near-produced is the future. At Segers we are equally carefull about what you have on while working. Historically, textile production has been a burden on nature, people and the environment. In order to take greater responsibility and lead development towards a more environmentally friendly textile industry, Segers actively works with environmental issues.
code of conduct and instead joining amfori BSCI, which is one of the world’s largest sustainability initiatives for creating more responsible supply chains. Amfori BSCI is run by the Foreign Trade Association (FTA) in Brussels. It has around 2,000 member companies that each apply the same code of conduct to improve working environment conditions around the world. Our production process will be inspected by an independent institution on behalf of amfori BSCI in order to guarantee a sustainable working environment. Assistance in interpreting environmental legislation We also do everything in our power to comply with the EU’s chemicals legislation (REACH). This legislation includes the EU’s list of hazardous chemicals (Substances of very high concern/SVHC). The SVHC list is constantly changing and when new chemicals end up on the warning list, it can be difficult for our suppliers to keep up. This is why Segers, together with an external consultant, has created a tool to help suppliers focus on which chemicals are considered to be hazardous, and also keep up to date with substances used in a button or zip, for example, supplied to our factories. We are also currently developing a system to communicate and ensure that our suppliers have procedures to test the products they provide to us. Segers takes random samples to check that no prohibited and regulated substances remain in the products. As a member of the Chemicals Group at Swerea IVF, Segers receives continuous updates on any legislative changes. We are also participating in research projects to be able to replace products that are hazardous to the environment and to human health. Segers is also looking at alternative solutions for a more sustainable world. For example, cotton growing needs huge amounts of water and is an unsustainable strain on the environment. So, we are looking into how Tencel® (lyocell), for example, can work as a more eco-friendly alternative. We already have several garments in our range made with Tencel®. Please feel free to contact us if you have any more questions!
Toxic chemicals, precarious employment and unsustainable production methods. Certain segments of the textile industry have an unfortunate history and there is much to be done to make things 100% sustainable. However, the industry also boasts many players who are working actively to take responsibility for the environment and sustainability. Segers is one of them. Attitudes to human rights and healthy working conditions vary hugely at factories around the world. Here at Segers we accept social responsibility for contributing to a fairer world – and for ensuring that you can wear our workwear with a clear consistence. The garments you are wearing have been produced at Segers’ own factories in Estonia and Ukraine. By owning our own factories we can personally guarantee that our employees are well treated and that you as a customer are free to visit our factories at any time to see how we manage our environmental and social responsibility. Always satisfactory conditions Our employees work in light, clean and hygienic premises with good heating and ventilation. They have the right to their entire wage even if the order books aren’t full. Normal 40-hour working weeks are standard and everyone receives remuneration for overtime, 28 days’ paid holiday, plus pension and insurance contributions. One of our CSR projects involves sponsoring the local music school at our production unit in Ukraine. This has nothing to do with our production activities, but it is important to the local community. We have been promoting the concept of a good working environment for many years, by virtue of Segers’ own code of conduct. However, from 2017 we will be moving on from the
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
7220 515 / JACKET, WOMEN’S. Three buttons. Collar and lapel. Breast pocket, side pockets with flap, inner pockets. Lining 100% polyester. Length centre back 60 cm. Quality: 44/54/2% wool/polyester/lycra. Size: C32-48. Colour: 002 navy, 015 black, 116 anthracite. 1226 306 / SHIRT, WOMEN’S. Classic cut, slightly fitted at the waist. Quality: 60/40% cotton/ polyester, fil-à-fil. Size: XS-XXL. Colour: 000 white, 006 light blue, 053 cerise, 071 aqua, 078 midnight blue, 111 light grey.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
6009 515 / WAISTCOAT, MEN’S. Breast pocket, side pockets, one inside pocket. Adjusted with pull tab/buttons at the back. Lining 100% polyester. Length centre back 58 cm. Quality: 44/54/2% wool/polyester/lycra. Size: C44-60. Colour: 002 navy, 015 black, 116 anthracite. 1215 998 / SHIRT, MEN’S. Classic cut. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: S-XXL. Colour: 603 blue/red/white woven check.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1215 998 / SHIRT, MEN’S. Classic cut. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: S-XXL. Colour: 602 blue/beige print. 4079 771 / BIB APRON. Adjustable neck strap with buttonholes. Breast pocket, pen pocket and side pocket. Quality: 55/45% linen/cotton. Size: approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 023 beige. This style is also available in green, art. no. 4079 764.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
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REPORTAGE / UNDER
Gastronomy and marine biology below the waves narrow window cutting across the surface of the sea down into the depths. From the bar, diners can also look down on the seabed of the restaurant, with two large dining tables and several smaller tables positioned in front of the panoramic window. But Under is about so much more than just looking. It’s about tasting too. The head chef will be Nicolai Ellitsgaard Pedersen from renowned restaurant “Måltid” in Kristiansand. The menu, not surprisingly, will be inspired by the sea and coast, featuring fish, shellfish, marine plants, seabirds and Norwegian sheep that have grazed on meadows alongside the water. “Under has been an exciting and unique journey for us here at Snøhetta. It opens up a brand new world below the waves and our constant focus has been the overall experience for diners. It’s a matter of combining safety, atmosphere and unique food with knowledge of the ocean and the food that comes from it. All these themes must be reflected in the architecture,” explains Rune. An artificial mussel reef Form and materials have been selected with a view to interaction with the geographic context and local flora and fauna. The concrete facade will provide an excellent surface for mussels to cling to, and over time Under will evolve into a kind of artificial mussel reef. The mussels will both purify the water and attract other aquatic life. Local oak from the coastal area has been sawn into planks and will now be used in the construction process. The planks will gradually fade to tones of grey, matching the concrete. The muted colours of the champagne bar draw inspiration from the coastline and are reminiscent of shells, pebbles and sand. The sunken dining room will feature shades of dark blue and green evoking the seabed, seaweed and the sea. Oak has been chosen for the furniture to bring a sense of warmth to the dining room and serve as a contrast to the cool coastal colours. However, Under will not only be serving up food. The restaurant will also welcome research teams studying marine biology and fish behaviour. The researchers will help to create optimised conditions on the seabed, so that fish and shellfish can flourish in the vicinity of the restaurant. Under is expected to open in 2019.
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SEGERS
In the far south of Norway, between Kristiansand and Stavanger, is a small village by the name of Båly. If you have never heard of Båly before, that’s hardly surprising. To date, this little village has been a rather quiet place. But that is about to change. Europe’s first underwater restaurant will soon be opening here. A fine-dining experience five metres below the surface offering a totally different kind of ocean view than we are used to. You will be able to gaze out across the seabed while tucking into shellfish, fish and marine plants. The restaurant will be called Under. With seating for 100 diners, it will be Europe’s first, and the world’s largest, underwater restaurant. A homage to the Norwegian coast and the wild fauna of the ocean. The project is the brainchild of brothers Gaute and Stig Ubostad, owners of the Lindesnes Havhotell. “Under is about creating a unique attraction that will appeal to people the world over. We believe that the combination of exciting architecture, marine biology and gastronomy can make this a success,” says Gaute Ubostad. Architectural practice Snøhetta, also known for having designed Oslo Opera House, is responsible for the design. The restaurant has been designed as a single large block that appears to be slowly sliding down into the ocean. However, the entrance sits firmly on land and the concrete walls are over a metre thick to withstand the forces of nature. Through the huge panoramic window diners will experience the seabed with their own eyes. “Under is a restaurant that ties together sea and land in a highly dramatic way. As a diner walking slowly through the restaurant, you will descend from the rocky shoreline all the way down to the seabed. You will then sit and dine with a full vista of what is happening at the bottom of the sea. It will be like a gigantic diving mask, allowing you to see how the ocean changes appearance, reflecting the weather and the differing seasons,” explains Rune Grasdal, senior architect at Snøhetta. From the rocky shoreline down to the depths The experience at Under begins on the rocky shoreline. From the entrance and cloakroom, you are guided through into the champagne bar, which marks the transition between land and sea. The transformation is reinforced by a
REPORTAGE / UNDER
MAGAZINE
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1058 201 / CHEF’S SHIRT, LONG SLEEVE – WOMEN’S. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size C34-50. Colour 000 white, 015 black.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
1053 201 / CHEF’S SHIRT, SHORT SLEEVE – MEN’S. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size C44-64 (C146-154 in white). Colour 000 white, 015 black.
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DESIGN / KONCEPT CONCEPT
1056 201 / CHEF’S SHIRT, SHORT SLEEVE – WOMEN’S. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size C34-50. Colour 000 white, 015 black. 1053 201 / CHEF’S SHIRT, SHORT SLEEVE – MEN’S. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size C44-64 (C146-154 in white). Colour 000 white, 015 black.
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SEGERS
Liggande bild
DESIGN / KONCEPT CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
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SEGERS FABRIKER AB Företagsgatan 30, SE-504 64 Borås Tel. +46 (0)33-23 10 00 / www.segers.com / info@segers.com
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