NÂş2 2019
segers maga zine
P 08 / From starred restaurant via winner’s podium to art bakery. P 16 / Sustainable production of clothing in Pakistan. P 24 / Locally produced zero-waste interior furnishings.
SEGERS
INTRODUCTION
MAGAZINE
NK's new market hall has finally opened in Stockholm. One of the stalls in the market hall is Art Bakery, where world championship gold medal winner from the Swedish Chefs Team, Frida Bäcke, will delight her café guests with her beautiful and artistic craftmanship. Aesthetics are also key for Anders Ölund, a carpenter who transforms old trees into furniture, furnishings, chopping boards and butcher’s blocks. These are stunning utensils that will look great on Instagram. We also looked into how Segers’ work with CSR at their production facility in Pakistan.
Mia Kinn / Marketing Manager at Segers
3
DESIGN / CONCEPT
X
SEGERS
1271 - SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL Stand up collar. Outside tab on the collar for apron straps. Cuff with slit/button. Breast pocket. Yoke on back with box pleat. Contrasting colour fabric on inside of collar, the inside of sleeve, plus a triangle of fabric at the bottom side seams. Single buttonhole with orange thread. Qual 321: 65/35% polyester/cotton, mix. Wash 40°C. Colours: 007 denim blue, 076 dark blue
4078 - BIB APRON, APPROX. 75 X 90 CM Waist tie strap. Double pocket. Elasticated braces, art. no. 0568, must be purchased separately. Must be removed before washing. Qual 282: 65/35% polyester/cotton, Canvas. Wash 85°C. Colour: 043 dark red, 026 khaki, 002 navy, 010 dark grey, 015 black
4
DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
5
DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1271 - SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL Stand up collar. Outside tab on the collar for apron straps. Cuff with slit/button. Breast pocket. Yoke on back with box pleat. Contrasting colour fabric on inside of collar, the inside of sleeve, plus a triangle of fabric at the bottom side seams. Single buttonhole with orange thread. Qual 321: 65/35% polyester/cotton, mix. Wash 40°C. Colours: 007 denim blue, 076 dark blue
6
DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
7
INTERVIEW / FRIDA BÄCKE
SEGERS
8
Photo: Sebastian Pettersson
INTERVIEW / FRIDA BÄCKE
From starred restaurant via winner’s podium to art bakery.
MAGAZINE
also an honour to put Swedish gastronomy and all our producers of good ingredients on the top step of the podium. And now you’ve left competitions to become head pastry chef at the Art Bakery in Stockholm. Tell us more about that? Johan Sörberg and Melanders Group have developed the Art Bakery together at NK Parkaden. It’s an innovative concept that blends a bakery with an art gallery. The bakery is intended to convey the relationship between art and baking, because as a pastry chef you’re also an artist. Cakes are a good example: using different styles and shapes you can create sculptures and taste sensations. It makes a fantastic mix. Here we can offer everything from bread, cakes and pralines to desserts, salads and art. What goals do you have for the Art Bakery? I want to be able to offer a good place to work – a creative playground with great breadth where the range feels vibrant and modern. A good, strong team enables us to give our customers an all-round experience with a variety of pastries. This will naturally put demands on me as a leader. I want to arouse curiosity and make it difficult for customers to choose from all the pastries in different colours and shapes with flavours according to the season. That’s the best part, selling really good pastries that are available to more people than just judges in different competitions. You had your official opening last week. What was it like? Great fun. Everyone’s worked very hard and production has gone well. There were lots of people who tried our pastries and admired the art around the premises. People are aware and want to buy beautiful, tasty pastries without additives. I’m looking forward to a bright future.
Frida Bäcker is a confectioner who has competed as a member of the national chefs team for five years in all. After winning last year’s world championship gold, she chose to leave the competition behind her. And instead of baking for judges, her focus is now on satisfying café guests with her colourful pastries at the Art Bakery in Stockholm. You have competed with the national chefs team for a total of five years. What has this given you as a pastry chef? It’s been five fantastic years where I’ve been able to develop at a rapid pace. On the national chefs team I’ve had the opportunity to experiment freely and get to be creative together with other talented food creators. What I have first and foremost brought away with me, regardless of whether I’ve been working at a pastry shop or a starred restaurant, is to never be satisfied and always ask yourself if things can be improved. You’ve spent about 40 hours a week competing without payment on the national chefs team. What’s been your driving force? To learn something new. Sure, it’s a lot of time but you get so much back. I’ve been to the best school I can imagine. At the same time as I’ve made friends for life where we challenge and support each other all the way. Everyone puts their heart and soul into representing Sweden and continuing to develop Swedish gastronomy. So how did it feel to win the championship? Totally wonderful. It means that the effort in terms of time and energy is worth it. It’s incredible fun to compete as a team, and of course even more rewarding to win as one. It’s
9
INTERVIEW / FRIDA BÄCKE
SEGERS
10
INTERVIEW / FRIDA BÄCKE
MAGAZINE
11
Photo: Sebastian Pettersson
DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1022 - CHEF’S SHIRT, WOMEN’S, C34-50 Slim fit. White piping around the collar. Hanging loop in the collar. Fabriccovered buttons. Slits on both sides at the front. Yoke front. Longitudinal seams front/back. Qual 261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Tumble dry at max 50°C, iron dry. Colours: 000 white, 015 black
12
DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
13
DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1022 - CHEF’S SHIRT, WOMEN’S, C34-50 Slim fit. White piping around the collar. Hanging loop in the collar. Fabric-covered buttons. Slits on both sides at the front. Yoke front. Longitudinal seams front/back. Qual 261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Tumble dry at max 50°C, iron dry. Colours: 000 white, 015 black
1021 - CHEF’S JACKET, MEN’S, C44-60 Slim fit. White piping around the collar. Hanging loop in the collar. Fabric-covered buttons. Slits on both sides at the front. Yoke front. Longitudinal seams front/back. Qual 261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Tumble dry at max 50°C, iron dry. Colours: 000 white, 015 black
4078 - BIB APRON, APPROX. 75 X 90 CM Waist tie strap. Double pocket. Elasticated braces, art. no. 0568, must be purchased separately. Must be removed before washing. Qual 282: 65/35% polyester/cotton, Canvas. Wash 85°C. Colour: 043 dark red, 026 khaki, 002 navy, 010 dark grey, 015 black
14
DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
15
INTERVIEW / SEGERS
Sustainable production of clothing in Pakistan. can be dire if a woman dares to think differently. The question is; how much pressure should we as a western company apply in trying to change the Pakistani culture? Where can we provide support? How is this matter discussed? In my mind, it would be easier for women to discuss this at home if she could say that almost all her female colleagues go back to work once the children are older. Together they are
and paid education for their children.
stronger. At our factory, for example, 96% come back to work after spending some years at home with their families. As far as I know, this is the highest ratio in Pakistan. What other measures do you take in Pakistan? We have an onsite HR Manager, Adil Aamir, who we work with. He is worth his weight in gold and is full of ideas and has made numerable changes to the workplace. One of these is a vaccination programme, where we vaccinate all our employees against typhus and hepatitis A and B. All our employees and their families are entitled to healthcare via PESSI (Punjab employees social security institution). We also make contributions to the education of our employees’ children via the Workers Welfare Board, and continue to make these payments even when a member of staff decides to leave. Our employees also receive pensions and life insurance. However, our biggest problem is actually illiteracy. When we introduced and offered these benefits to our employees, we fully expected them to be delighted. However, it turned out that many of them were sceptical about all kinds of paperwork and documents, because they cannot read. Quite a few of our employees also have a completely different approach to the concept of time. In their minds, if they don’t feel unwell at that point in time then they have no need for insurance. And the idea of retiring in the future is something very distant. They are confident that their children will look after them in the future. How do you solve this conflict? Adil works very hard to encourage all our employees to sign the documents and to have access to these benefits. We have also considered contacting relatives who can read to help our employees and encourage them to accept the benefits offered. It’s actually very similar to the situation
Segers has produced textiles in a facility just outside Lahore in Pakistan for several years now. The facility has space for 500 employees and supplements Segers’ former production units in Estonia and the Ukraine. How do customers feel about the clothes they buy being produced in Pakistan? "Thanks to reports in the media and documentaries in recent years, particularly from Bangladesh, Pakistan now also has an unfavourable reputation. That’s how the news works. We see one set of pictures and they stay with us and colour everything else we see. Of course, there are bad workplaces in both countries, but there are also very many textile factories that take responsibility and work hard to provide employees with a sustainable working life. What is Segers’ strategy for the unit in Pakistan? In summary, we do our best to implement our values for a humane and safe workplace at the same time as paying full respect to the Pakistani culture and their way of life. This requires a balancing act, and some decisions are tougher than others. Who works in the factories? The textile industry in Pakistan is dominated by women. Generally speaking, they are quite young and usually work in the textile industry from the age of 18 to 21. At the age of 21, they tend to leave working life as tradition dictates that women of a certain age should stay at home and take care of the children. At Segers, we always try to explain to the women that they are welcome back to work once the children have grown up and are so old they can look after themselves. But this is also a tough choice for many of the women. It’s quite common in some families for the husband and relatives to believe that women should not work but stay home, with full responsibility for the household, and the consequences
with encouraging women to come back to work after having children. The more who try and find out it works, the more will follow.
16
SEGERS
For years now, the clothing industry in Asia has had a bad reputation for unsatisfactory working environment and low salaries. At Segers’ factory just outside Lahore in Pakistan, a lot of time and effort has been invested for many years in proving this reputation wrong and creating a humane working environment that can be compared to those found in the west. Employees receive a good salary, have healthcare
INTERVIEW / SEGERS
MAGAZINE
17
DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1274 - SHIRT, WOMEN’S, XS-3XL Stand up collar. Outside tab on the collar for apron straps. Cuff with slit/button. Breast pocket. Yoke on back with box pleat. Contrasting colour fabric on inside of collar, the inside of sleeve, plus a triangle of fabric at the bottom side seams. Single buttonhole with orange thread. Qual 322: 80/20% cotton/polyester, woven stripe. Wash 40°C. Colours: 005 Blue/White
4088 - WAIST APRON, APPROX. 75 X 56 CM Side pockets in sheepskin. Tone in tone stitching on pockets. Loop for hanging. Qual 765: 55/45% linen/cotton. Wash 40°C. Colours: 002 navy marl DELIVERY: end of April
18
DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
1271 - SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL Stand up collar. Outside tab on the collar for apron straps. Cuff with slit/button. Breast pocket. Yoke on back with box pleat. Contrasting colour fabric on inside of collar, the inside of sleeve, plus a triangle of fabric at the bottom side seams. Single buttonhole with orange thread. Qual 322: 80/20% cotton/polyester, woven stripe. Wash 40°C. Colours: 005 Blue/White
4089 - BIB APRON, APPROX. 75 X 90 CM Adjustable neck strap with button/buttonholes. Side pockets in sheepskin. Tone in tone stitching on pockets. Loop for hanging. Qual 765: 55/45% linen/cotton. Wash 40°C. Colours: 002 navy marl DELIVERY: end of April
19
DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1094 - SHIRT, WOMEN’S, C34-50 Slim fit. Fabric-covered buttons. Long sleeves with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Yoke, longitudinal seams front/back. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop on outside of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Qual 245/261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Colours: 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black
1091 - SHIRT MEN'S, C44-60 Slim fit. Fabric-covered buttons. Long sleeves with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Yoke, longitudinal seams front/back. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop on outside of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Qual 245/261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Colours: 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black
20
DESIGN / CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
21
DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
0574 - POCKET, APPROX. 22 X 28 CM Channel, approx. 5 cm, for threading onto a waistband or belt (purchased separately). Inside pockets for telephone, pens, etc. Qual 282: 65/35% polyester/cotton, canvas. Wash 85°C. Colours: 015 black
22
DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
MAGAZINE
1219 - SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL Slim fit. Qual 306: 60/40% cotton/polyester, fil-à-fil. Wash 40°C. Colours: 000 white, 006 light blue, 013 graphite
23
INTERVIEW / ANDERS ÖLUND
Locally produced zero-waste interior furnishings. allows us to cut really big logs. How much artistry do you blend in when you create
been making unique furniture, interior furnishings and articles made of wood in undulating shapes and beautiful patterns since 1988. On our visit we also see cutting boards and butcher’s workbenches. Do you make things for the restaurant industry? – Absolutely. I have made several large buffet tables for Ulvereds Hjorthägn for example. There’s also a restaurant called Rökeriet in Laholm. I made almost all their furniture for them. The raw materials, the wood I used, came from historical trees from St. Nikolai church in Halmstad. Up to between 150 and 200 years old, the trees have now been given a new life at the restaurant. Locally produced interior furnishings you might say. Do you sometimes work directly with chefs? – Yes, I’ve worked together with Stefan Holmström. He has over 50 years’ experience as a chef and often says that what a chef needs is good ingredients, a good knife and a good cutting board. Now he sells my cutting blocks that I’ve made from end grain. What makes my cutting blocks different from others is that I work with combinations of patterns. You can see undulating patterns and figures on the boards,
things? – Artists don’t usually create utility articles. As an artist, you work more with the actual appearance, perception or feeling. I myself only create utility articles and there tends to be a fairly sharp division between the two disciplines. But I don’t deny that I try to combine both ways of thinking. I’ m first and foremost an engineer and know all about strength, ergonomics and the technical aspects. On the other hand, I always try to create objects that arouse feelings or are beautiful to look at. The aesthetic aspects are important, but I’m not an artist in that sense. How do you work if a restaurant, a chef or a hotel for example were to contact you? – I listen to what they need and then we usually take it from there. I’ve been doing this for over 30 years now, and I have realised that these 30 years have in actual fact just been a period of preparation. A build-up phase. Now I’ve collected so much material that almost anything can be created. If someone should need a table that is four metres long and two metres wide, it’s not a problem. I can make a table like that with just two planks. I can basically produce a table that is as large as a student flat, but of course I can also make smaller
making them extremely beautiful. A kind of life and a harmony that I’ve never seen in store-bought cutting boards. End grain is also so hard that the knife just glides on top of the wood. There are no cracks in the end grain where bacteria can enter. What woods do you work with? “– Mostly local Swedish elm that I’ve cut myself. There’s been a really good supply of elm for the past 25 years because of Dutch elm disease that came in from mainland Europe. But we’re beginning to run out of elms and many are unfortunately being burned. I have tried to get hold of as many elms as I could to preserve the beautiful patterns so that the elms can live on in another form. But we also have oak, ash, birch and other woods in stock, depending on what we want to create. We have worked a lot with smoked oak and now people also seem to have discovered its beauty. Here at our carpentry shop we’ve also built our own saw that
knife handles for cutting blocks and corkscrews. A hardwood bathtub and a urinal are probably the most exclusive items I’ve created so far. If you’re looking for something unique that’s made of recycled material and locally produced, you can come to me. Do you have any exciting projects coming up? "Yes, a man came into the carpentry shop three years ago. He stood looking at my stuff for a long time and it turned out that he was a forest manager at the Royal Djurgården Administration, the organisation that looks after the Royal National City Park. I suppose many trees on the king’s estates have started to grow old and now he wanted to see how the trees could be recycled into furniture. I’ve delivered some of the tables, but I don’t know if they’ve reached the king himself yet. But I should nonetheless be a royal purveyor soon, I think.
24
SEGERS
In Ränneslöv, 10 kilometres outside Laholm, we find Anders Ölund and his carpentry shop. Anders has
INTERVIEW / ANDERS ÖLUND
MAGAZINE
25
DESIGN / CONCEPT
SEGERS
1271 - SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL Stand up collar. Outside tab on the collar for apron straps. Cuff with slit/button. Breast pocket. Yoke on back with box pleat. Contrasting colour fabric on inside of collar, the inside of sleeve, plus a triangle of fabric at the bottom side seams. Single buttonhole with orange thread. Qual 321: 65/35% polyester/cotton, mix. Wash 40°C. Colours: 007 denim blue, 076 dark blue
4061 - WAIST APRON, CA 75 X 56 CM Double pouch pocket. Qual 282: 65/35% polyester/cotton, Canvas. Wash 85°C. Colour: 043 dark red, 026 khaki, 002 navy, 010 dark grey, 015 black
26
DESIGN / KONCEPT CONCEPT
MAGAZINE
5330 - CHEF’S JACKET, C44-60 Classic straight cut. Removable black stud buttons included. Seams at the back. Double pen pocket on left sleeve. Hanging loop in the collar. Qual 201: 65/35% polyester/cotton, Twill. Wash 85°C. Colours: 002 navy, 011 light grey, 014 grey, 024 sand, 028 brown, 038 rust, 041 red, 043 dark red, 086 olive green
4574 - BIB APRON APPROX. 75 X 90 CM Adjustable neck strap with buttons. No pockets. Qual 201/280: 65/35% polyester/cotton, Twill. Wash 85°C. Colours 201: 011 light grey, 024 sand, 033 orange, 038 rust, 083 apple green, 086 olive Colours 280: 000 white, 002 navy, 014 grey, 015 black, 028 brown, 041 red, 043 dark red
27
SEGERS FABRIKER AB Företagsgatan 30, 504 64 Borås Tel. +46 (0)33 23 10 00 / www.segers.com / info@segers.com T H I S CATA LOG U E I S P R I N T E D O N C H LO R I N E - F R E E PA P E R A N D C O M P L I E S W I T H T H E S I S R E Q U I R E M E N T S FO R S W A N E CO - L A B E L L E D PA P E R .
P H OTO : PAT R I K H A G B O R G . C O P Y: M E C K A