Magazine no.2 2017 eng by Segers Fabriker

Nยบ2 2017

maga zine

segers P. 10 / Frida Ronge is going Japanese at TAK. P. 22 / A visit to the fishing port.

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INTRODUCTION

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March 2017 sees the opening of TAK – an entirely new restaurant concept at Petter Stordalen’s new hotel in Stockholm. This will include over 1000 m2 of restaurant space, plus a magnificent rooftop bar. Frida Ronge is the brains behind this concept, and we met up with her to talk Japan, soba noodles and a raw bar. Watch the film with Frida at segers.se Speaking of all things raw, we also stopped at Gothenburg’s fish auction to meet Martin Petersson, who just loves haddock.

Mia Kinn / Marketing Manager at Segers

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1087 769 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Breast pocket, sleeve pocket. Hanging loop in the collar. Slits in the sides. Yoke and longitudinal seams at the back. Slightly rounded hem at the back. Shrinkage approx. 4 – 6%. Quality: 47% linen, 53% cotton. Size: C46– C60. Colour: 005 blue mix.

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1088 769 / WOMEN’S WRAPAROUND JACKET, 1089 769 / MEN’S WRAPAROUND JACKET Buttoned with concealed snap buttons and a tie band at the side. Pockets in longitudinal seams at the front. Slits in the sides. Yoke and longitudinal seams at the back. Hanging loop in the collar. Shrinkage approx. 4-6%. Quality: 47% linen, 53% cotton. Size: Women’s C34 – C50, Men’s C46 – C60. Colour: 005 blue mix.

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1. 4077 283 / BIB APRON. Breast pocket, side pockets. Quality: 60% cotton, 40% polyester, canvas. Size: Approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 015 black. 2. 4077 763 / BIB APRON. Breast pocket, side pockets. Shrinkage approx. 7% in length. Quality: 60% cotton, 40% linen. Size: Approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 028 brown, woven check. 3. 4077 769 / BIB APRON. Breast pocket, side pockets. Shrinkage approx. 4 – 6% in length. Quality: 47% linen, 53% cotton. Size: Approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 005 blue mix. 4. 4060 283 / WAIST APRON. Side pockets. Quality: 60% cotton, 40% polyester, canvas. Size: Approx. 75 x 56 cm. Colour: 015 black. 5. 4060 763 / WAIST APRON. Side pockets. Shrinkage approx. 7% in length. Quality: 60% cotton, 40% linen. Size: Approx. 75 x 56 cm. Colour: 028 brown, woven check. 6. 4060 769 / WAIST APRON. Side pockets. Shrinkage approx. 4 – 6% in length. Quality: 47% linen, 53% cotton. Size: Approx. 75 x 56 cm. Colour: 005 blue mix. 7. 0566 890 / SET OF LEATHER DETAILS. Three leather straps, fastened with metal buttons, neck strap adjustable with D rings. For bib apron, art. no. 4077. Dry clean/Leather clean. Quality: 100% goat leather, vegetable tanned. Colour: 028 brown. Leather details and straps must be purchased separately. Must be removed before washing.

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Create your own apron. Choose from various leather details, pockets and shoulder straps.

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1255 634 / SHIRT, SHORT SLEEVE. Stand-up collar, breast pockets. Wider front opening. Not buttoned through. Slightly rounded hem. Yoke front/back. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: UNISEX, XS–XXL. Colour: 002 navy, woven pattern, tone on tone.

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INTERVIEW / FRIDA RONGE

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INTERVIEW / FRIDA RONGE

Japan meets Scandinavia at Stockholm’s largest roof terrace.

influenced my style. The first time I travelled to Japan, I had

March 2017 sees the opening of At Six, and Hobo, at Brunkebergstorg, a new hotel complex in the centre

the belief that everyone would be eating sushi everywhere -

of Stockholm. A thousand square metre restaurant

and of course that really wasn’t the case. Sushi is only a small

and Stockholm’s largest roof terrace will be filled

part of Japanese cuisine. That said, I’m glad it took me so

with customers. Frida Ronge, known for Råkultur and

long to visit Japan; My dishes are very evocative of Japan,

vRÅ, is now developing the Japanese concept for TAK.

but they’re not created entirely from the complete art of the

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tradition. And Japanese tradition is incredibly strong, with So why a focus on Japanese?

clear rules on how sushi should be cut and served. From here in Sweden I could be more playful and creative, And I also

Japan has followed me my entire career, you could say. More precisely, it’s about modern Scandinavian food culture

want to transfer this mentality to my employees. Do keep an

of local raw ingredients, influenced by Japanese preparation

eye on tradition – but find a path through it to suit you. We

methods and flavours. For me, it began around 2005–2006

really want to surprise our customers with something new. How will the Japanese influence be seen at TAK?

when I worked on the Seafood Bar at the Högfjällshotell in

The basis of the TAK concept is to reach a wider

Sälen. I’ve never been the kind of chef to enjoy just standing over the grill or oven; I much prefer taking the time to prepare

audience. We have over 1000 m2 of restaurant space, two

food. Most often this would be for cold foods. Standing there

floors and two large hotels. There will be many guests who

making sushi suited me perfectly.

want to eat here, and we will be running a commercial restaurant. When I saw the floor plans, I knew straight away

Sushi was a fairly new thing in Sweden at that time, and wasn’t at all the same thing it has become today. We worked

that we had to divide up the space, as I think we won’t have

a lot with frozen ingredients. Everything was delivered in frozen

one specific type of guest that wants to eat one type of menu,

trays or blocks that we would thaw and then slice. I knew that

seven days a week. But you really will feel that this is “flirting”

it had to be possible to develop the concept so much more,

with Japan. For example, if I go to a traditional Japanese

but the market and the routines just weren’t yet in place.

fine dining restaurant, it can often be lacking in flavours.

I continued on to Yasuragi Hasseludden, a Japanese-inspired

Just fish, nothing else. Which is, of course, quite right, if it is

spa just outside Stockholm. This is where I encountered

traditional Japanese food you want to prepare. But we will

teppanyaki and food preparation in front of the customers.

create a Nordic fusion with bolder flavours. As far as possible,

I really enjoyed the style of Yasuragi and its atmosphere,

we’re working with fish, seafood, meat and vegetables from

which just increased my interest in Japan. I then got an offer

Sweden and the Nordic countries. We’ve said no to frozen

of a job as head chef at Råkultur in Stockholm as they were

fish from Asia and the Mediterranean. Instead, we view

about to open. Here we had the opportunity to take food

Japan as a resource for rice, rice wine vinegar and some

to its extreme and only worked with fish and seafood from

spices. We’re now ready to dry some raw ingredients and use

Sweden and the North Atlantic. It was a huge success; we

Japanese flavourings in different fermentations.

were always fully booked. After around 3 years, I got the

A 1000 m2 restaurant. How will you manage it? The ground floor will be a large à la carte area, with

chance to start vRÅ in Gothenburg, and went full in with fish from the North Atlantic.

160 covers. We’ll serve snacks, starters, hot dishes, mains

How traditionally Japanese is your style?

and desserts. Amongst other items, I’m thinking of having two sushi dishes, a dish of salted cod with a sauce made

Of course I respect the tradition, but I’m not particularly traditional in myself. I’d probably worked with Japanese food

from saké instead of wine, one dish with steak tartare,

for 5-6 years before I got the chance to visit Japan. It really

one with Kalix caviare where we add a Japanese element,

INTERVIEW / FRIDA RONGE

for me, because then I was able to create my own plan for my new job. But at the same time, it was insanely stressful and the first 6 months were solely about creating contacts with different collaboration partners who “perhaps, eventually, maybe” were interested in joining with us. How did you deal with that? It felt remarkable at times. It’s an entirely new thing for me to work on one thing for a whole week, and for that to then be discarded or put to one side; to just throw away that idea. It felt that all that time spent on it was for nothing; just gone. But when I spoke with my friends who had experience of this type of work, they just said: “Yeah, it’s the same all the time with my job, Frida”. It’s only now after a year that I can notice just how much we’ve actually done. Everything’s now in progress. The vegetables we want are being grown. The crockery that we’ve had so many discussions about, is now being made. All the goods I chose out in Japan are now being loaded onto the boat. The Japanese beer with yuzu has been brewed and got its label. Do you now feel comfortable in the role? It feels like I’ve skipped over several steps in the hierarchy when I took this job. I still feel ill and I get a stomach ache every day when I go to work. But that’s just how it is with me. That’s how I work best. When I’m comfortable, I’m uninspired. I want to be challenged and not feel too satisfied. The staff I’ve hired are better than me in so many ways. That’s my strategy. I need to have staff who know things in a different way to me. I’m good at leading, inspiring, and obviously at cooking, but there are chefs here who are so much better at certain things than me. These are the skills we want to have here, and it’s what’s needed to keep me on my toes. Do you enjoy traditional Japan? I love most things to do with Japan, even the traditional. I had absolutely the best sushi of my life in the city of Kanazawa. The chef was definitely over 65 and had run the same traditional sushi restaurant all his life, 5 days a week, year after year. I was really moved by the level of focus, that someone can be so disciplined and dedicate their whole life to one thing. If I ever get tired of my job, or restless, I usually think of that sushi chef in Kanazawa. But it’s also kind of funny. If you go to the new places in Tokyo, many of the younger chefs have begun to introduce international influences, like putting toppings on the sushi. We’d started doing that in the Nordic countries about six, seven years ago.

Watch the film with Frida at segers.com

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hot or cold, and perhaps a crème brûlée that we flavour with soya. Japanese takes on dishes for a wider audience. On the lower floor we’ll also have a separate area of 8 covers. This will be an entirely different type of food for more gastronomically-adventurous customers. Upscale Japanese cooking is not something we’re used to seeing in Sweden. On the upper floor will be the large bar with Stockholm’s largest outdoor terrace. Guests can come here for a cocktail, or try our Japanese beer flavoured with yuzu. On the terrace, you can eat comfort food like burgers, and hotdogs in buns made from fermented Japanese chilli paste. I’ve also managed to find some wonderful buckwheat soba noodles. With those we’ll perhaps add a dashi from woodsmoked Jokkmokk pork shoulder, rather than the traditional bonito flakes. Grilled yakitori skewers is another thing, as well as chirashi sushi. It’s not all 100% agreed yet; it’s important for me that my head chefs and sous chefs to be involved in what we create. I’m a concept developer and creative leader, but as a chef I always perform best if I can feel involved in what I do. I want to give this opportunity to everyone at TAK, too. I will also insist that the central concept/theme is followed the whole time, but this is a business we’re building together with the staff. And no raw food? Oh yes, I’m doing a raw bar linked with the terrace. I love raw food and think it would’ve been crazy not to highlight it. There’ll be around 35 covers with a focus on sashimi, tartares, seafood, but also Swedish classics. Think about a cured salmon with a dill and mustard sauce instead of salt, and where the salmon is cut as sashimi instead of the thin slices you see on the Christmas table. How did you resolve going from chef to concept developer in such a short time? January last year was pretty tough. Back then I was new at the job, and life at the office is totally different from life in the kitchen. As a chef, you’re used to ordering raw ingredients, getting them delivered, processing them, preparing something, seeing guests eat their meals and then paying for it. Your working day is then done, and it starts all over again the next day. Now and then you change the menu. In an office, it’s not quite the same. The first day I was shown how to use the photocopier and the restaurant, then half the day had pretty much already gone. It felt like time was running away from me and I was forced to come up with a plan. But there wasn’t one – I was the one employed to create that very plan. And that was probably the best thing

INTERVIEW / FRIDA RONGE

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1250 632 / LONG-SLEEVE SHIRT, WOMEN’S. Stand-up collar, breast pocket. Wider front opening. Long sleeves with cuffs/slits. Straight hem. Yoke front/back. Back opening for wraparound. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: XS–XXL. Colour: 000 white. 2256 / 770 APRON DRESS. Simple design, adjustable braces with buttons at the back. Side pockets. Quality: 100% linen. Size: XS/S, M/L, XL/XXL. Colour: 013 graphite.

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1029 621 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Twill. French cut. Tapered closure. Piping around the collar, front edge, cuffs. Hand-sewn, fabric buttons that can handle mangling. Seams at the back. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality: 100% organic cotton. Size: C46– C60. Colour: 914 black with grey piping. 4077 283 / BIB APRON. Breast pocket, side pockets. Leather details, art. no. 0566, must be purchased separately. Must be removed before washing. Quality: 60% cotton/polyester, 40% canvas. Size: Approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 015 black.

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1092 770 / CHEF’S JACKET, WOMEN’S. Slim fit. Long sleeve with cuff, button, slit. Concealed closure. Visible buttons at collar. Breast pocket. Yoke, longitudinal seams front/back. Slits in the sides. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality: 100% linen. Size: C34– C48. Colour: 013 graphite. 4062 764 / WAIST APRON. Side pocket with inner pocket. Shrinkage approx. 7% in length. Quality: 50% linen, 50% cotton. Size: Approx. 75 x 56 cm. Colour: 085 green mix.

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1090 770 / CHEF’S JACKET. Slim fit. Long sleeve with cuff, button, slit. Concealed closure. Visible buttons at collar. Breast pocket. Yoke, longitudinal seams front/back. Slits in the sides. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality: 100% linen. Size: C46– C60. Colour: 013 graphite.

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1251 632 / LONG-SLEEVE SHIRT, MEN’S. Stand-up collar, breast pockets. Wider front opening. Long sleeves with cuffs/slits. Slightly rounded hem. Yoke front/back. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: S–XXL. Colour: 000 white. 7219 515 / MEN’S JACKET. One-way stretch. Two button model with a slimmer fit. Collar and lapel. Breast pocket, side pockets with flap, inner pocket. Lining 100% polyester. Length centre back 75 cm. Quality: 44% wool, 54% polyester, 2% lycra. Size: C44 – C60, C146 – C156. Colour: 002 navy, 015 black, 116 anthracite. 8481 515 / MEN’S TROUSERS. One-way stretch. Classic model with smooth front, hook-and-eye waistband, loops. Angled front pockets, back pockets. Knee lining at front. Quality: 44% wool, 54% polyester, 2% lycra. Size: C44 – C60, C146 – C154. Colour: 002 navy, 015 black, 116 anthracite.

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1200 253 / WAITER’S JACKET, WOMEN’S. Stand-up collar. Seams at the back. Breast pocket. Side pockets. Loops for shoulder straps. Loose metal buttons, art. no 1001, one set (ordered separately). Remove from garment before washing! Quality: 48% polyester, 52% cotton satin. Size: C34– C50. Colour: 000 white. Also available in men’s sizes.

REPORTAGE / FISH

A visit to the fishing port.

Fish has been one of our most important staple foods through history, and Sweden is spoiled with a long coastline. But the fishing opportunities are different depending on where in the country you are. The Kattegatt/Skagerrak waters have hundreds of species in its depths, compared with only around fifty up in the Gulf of Bothnia. Modern technology also means that the number of fishermen needed to haul up the catches is decreasing. In the country today there are around 1500 boats licensed for professional fishing. The Gothenburg fish auction has fish from around the whole country, both freshwater and saltwater. The biggest product is cleaned, whole fish, on ice. Some species are sold uncleaned. The auction also deals in fish roe, some fillets and seafood. Many fishing boats choose to land their fish in their home port, to then transport it by road to the auction. In the larger districts on the west coast, such as Varberg, Rönnäng and Öckerö, the fish is collected in the local port to then be transported in one batch to the fish auction in Gothenburg. The number of boats landing directly in Gothenburg’s fishing port is currently only a handful. What is a working day at Fiskeboa like? Martin: The auction begins at 06:30 every day. How long we stand and call out fish will depend on how much fish has been caught. This could be anything from 50 boxes to 3000 boxes. The difference can be that great, and each box weighs around 20–40 kilos. The amounts fished will obviously depend on the weather, wind, the season and how many boats have been out. Our company Fiskeboa is a fairly small wholesalers, with nine employees. We work with high quality fresh fish from Gothenburg. We also then import fish from Norway, the Netherlands and Denmark. And finally, we supply fish to 70-80 restaurants, primarily in Gothenburg. Every day. How does an auction work? Martin: The auctioneers make sales boat by boat. You can buy individual boxes of fish, or whole batches of the same kind. It’s often quite targeted, specific fishing that occurs at sea. The prawn boat generally only catches prawns. The boats fishing for tuna mostly only catch tuna, but also other similar round fish like haddock and saithe. We have our favourite boats we usually buy from, and we also have

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continuous dialogue with the restaurants and chefs about what is in season. If anyone wants to come and take a look, they can just turn up. The fish auction is open to everyone, although you do have to be registered to actually make purchases. How did your interest in fish begin? Martin: My paternal grandfather was often down at Feskekôrka. At that time, I was bored of school, so I hung out with him and began working in the fish industry instead. Pretty quickly I started my own business and began selling fresh fish to pubs. This is how my interest in food began in the same vein. Good food is my biggest interest and as luck would have it, my family is behind me. We try and go out to eat together as often as we can. Sometimes it’s fine dining, other times it’s simpler restaurants. I appreciate both, as long as the food is good. Has Sweden’s interest in fish changed at all? Martin: I think the interest has grown more and more. Ten years ago, people had the same attitude, when it was mostly tuna, sole, turbot and that sort of classic fish you see at restaurants. Now people are curious about more species. There’s a lot more raw food around, and it’s no problem to serve fish raw either. Here in Gothenburg perhaps we’re spoiled with good prices - we earn a lot of money and you can’t complain about the quality. What’s your favourite fish? Martin: Haddock is a favourite - it feels more like a lunchtime fish if you look at the restaurant menus nowadays. But it’s got a good taste, great consistency and a fine structure. It can feel somewhat like a loose fish, but once it’s prepared and cooked, it’s a fantastic consistency. Same with lemon sole, even if it doesn’t sound as fancy as other classic classy fish. The potential is great, but to discover entirely new fish, and get a larger market for them is quite hard, I think. Gurnard is an example of a fish that is quite a rare one - it doesn’t come up on the menu very often. For a restaurant that writes a new menu every day it’s no problem, but if you’ve got a fixed menu then it’s harder. How do you get new inspiration in the fish industry? Martin: When I travel. But I don’t want to take any glory here. Finding new opportunities and dishes, that’s actually thanks to the chefs - no doubt about it. It’s the chefs who read and study different parts of the world and culinary differences. It’s the chefs who prepare the food, create interest and create the demand for specific types of fish. Obviously I’ll help by talking about different cuts, what’s in season and supplying good fish. This is about maintaining a dialogue with them and supplying great quality food.

If you’re a young resident of Gothenburg and bored of school, you could always hang out with your granddad at the Feskekôrka fish market. Which is exactly what Martin Petersson did. Today, he runs the exclusive fish wholesalers Fiskeboa, in Gothenburg, and has worked up a real interest in food over the years.

REPORTAGE / FISH

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1087 769 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Breast pocket, sleeve pocket. Hanging loop in the collar. Slits in the sides. Yoke and longitudinal seams at the back. Slightly rounded hem at the back. Shrinkage approx. 4 – 6%. Quality: 47 % linen, 53 % cotton. Size: C46– C60. Colour: 005 blue mix.

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1226 998 / LONG-SLEEVE SHIRT, WOMEN’S. Classic cut, slightly waisted. Quality: 100% cotton. Size: XS–XXL. Colour: 603 blue/red/white woven check. 4763 628 / BIB APRON. Garment washed. Adjustable neck strap. Breast pocket, side pockets. Quality: 100% cotton denim. Size: Approx. 75 x 85 cm. Colour: 076 dark blue.

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