Magazine Segers No.4, 2017 fi by Segers Fabriker

Nº4 2017

segers maga zine

P10 / Berlin in Skåne Tranås. P22 / Quayside farmers.

SEGERS

INTRODUCTION

MAGAZINE

How local can you actually be? In this edition of the magazine we meet three people who have taken the concept of locally grown and produced food and goods to a whole new level. Daniel Berlin, for example, asked a childhood friend to make the furniture for his restaurant in Österlen. And on the quayside at Frihamnen in Gothenburg, William Bailey and Jonas Lindh are growing microgreens of the highest quality for the city’s restaurants. Delivered within one hour. On an electric bike, of course. And don’t forget to check out the new website at segers.com!

Mia Kinn / Marketing Manager at Segers

DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1053 201 / CHEF’S JACKET, SHORT SLEEVE. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Longitudinal seams front/back. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality: 65 % cotton, 35 % polyester. Size: C44–C64. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. RRP: € 23,60, excluding VAT. 8619 201 / TROUSERS – MEN’S. Slightly slimmer fit and leg width. Full waistband with belt loops. Side pockets. Braided back pocket. Quality: 65 % cotton, 35 % polyester. Size: C44–C64, C146–C154. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. RRP: € 35,62, excluding VAT.

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1605 201 / CHEF’S JACKET. Straight cut with seams at the back. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: C44–C64. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. RRP: € 24,94, excluding VAT. 1807 699 / TOWEL. 6 pack. Quality: 100 % cotton, approx. 270 g/m2. Wash: 85°C. Size: Approx. 50 x 80 cm. Colour: 005 blue. RRP: € 17,75, excluding VAT.

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1015 271 / JACKET – WOMEN’S. Stand-up collar. Slits in the sides. 3/4 sleeve. Pen pocket. Hanging loop in the collar. Loose metal buttons, art. no. 1001. Quality: 57 % cotton, 40 % polyester, 3 % elastolefin. Stretch satin. Size: C34–C48. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. Men’s style also available, art. no. 1010 271. RRP: € 62,13, excluding VAT. 4902 201 / WAIST APRON. Slit at centre front. Kangaroo pouch with key holder. Loop for hanging. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: Approx. 100 x 85 cm. Colour: 033 orange, 038 rust, 086 olive. RRP: € 24,61, excluding VAT.

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2030 650 / CHEF’S JACKET LONG ARMS. French cut. Tapered closure. Hand-sewn, fabric buttons that can handle mangling. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality: 100 % cotton. Extra fine quality Batavia. Size: C46–C64, B44-B56. Colour: 000 white. Women’s style also available, art. no. 2035 650. RRP: € 124,49, excluding VAT. 4570 201 / BIB APRON. Adjustable neck strap with buttons. Kangaroo pouch with key holder. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: Approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 033 orange, 038 rust, 086 olive. RRP: € 23,60, excluding VAT.

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INTERVIEW / DANIEL BERLIN

SEGERS

INTERVIEW / DANIEL BERLIN

Berlin in Skåne Tranås.

MAGAZINE

His childhood friend Anton has made the furniture. Lena in Åhus is responsible for the chinaware. His dad is the sommelier, and his mum looks after the garden. With its small-scale approach and local contacts, Daniel Berlin Krog is constantly winning new fans in the gastronomic world.

One of my early objectives was for the restaurant to become a meeting place for people out in the country. The previous owners had done incredibly well, and I wanted to continue where they had left off. But in my own way.” What sort of reception did you get from the locals? “People here were rightly curious about what sort of person I was. What would become of the place now, with a young chef from Malmö’s restaurant scene coming to Österlen and opening a new restaurant? However, it seemed to me that everyone was very open to the idea and happy that we were here. The entire district wanted to see the restaurant remain open and do well. Nevertheless, to make the project financially viable, we needed a larger customer base than was available locally in and around Skåne Tranås. To bring in some money I worked the lunch service at a pub in Malmö and then drove down here to the restaurant in the evenings. My own restaurant was new, a good way out in the country, and there was no social media to be able to publicise it. All we could do was produce the best food possible and hope that word would spread. Repeat customers were incredibly important for us during this period. I clearly remember two regulars who came here every Friday and sat at the same table every time. They still come here today.” What is unique about ingredients from Österlen? “We have a long growing season here and a great range of classic Swedish ingredients of a very high quality. But you still have to be selective and identify products you really like. Over the years we have built up a network of contacts and producers to work with. Anything we don’t grow ourselves, someone else grows for us. We support local producers as

In 2009 you left Malmö to open a restaurant in more rural Skåne Tranås. Why? “The idea was to get closer to nature. To have an opportunity to be myself and not be reliant on the people around me, as was the case in Malmö and Stockholm. I wanted to produce great food in a relaxed setting and be able to give the people here in Österlen access to a really good restaurant.” What links did you have with Österlen before moving here? “Practically none. Of course, I was familiar with Österlen from having worked in the restaurant industry. When I worked at Petri Pumpa in Malmö and other restaurants up in Stockholm, we always used to get ingredients from this area. Österlen was something akin to a brand. But I didn’t have any personal connections here. It was something of a struggle for me, but that just made the whole experience more exciting.” How do you go about establishing roots in a small town where no one knows who you are? “The very first thing I did was try to get to know the area. I went out in the car and drove around the various producers. I wrote personal letters and hand-delivered them as a way of introducing myself and explaining what I wanted to do. I also tried to arrange community evenings involving local residents.

INTERVIEW / DANIEL BERLIN

practically sitting and eating among the ingredients. In my case, it took a long time to get the restaurant exactly how I wanted it, but we prepare food in a very natural way that I never experienced when I worked in the city. We are closer to the ingredients, but detached from the city. And that distance in no way hampers us. Thanks to social media, anyone can see what we are doing out here. When a diner travels a long way to eat at Daniel Berlin Krog, he or she gets to experience superb food, an exciting new culture and ingredients that are generally unfamiliar to him or her. We are local and personal with a particularly exotic feel.” Have you discovered everything there is to discover about Österlen? “I believe that there is still an incredible amount to be done as far as Nordic cuisine is concerned. We are not quite there yet. But at little Daniel Berlin Krog, that takes time. I don’t have the same resources to experiment with as the big restaurants. But I regard that as something of a strength. The team here understands that it’s not like pressing a button and having millions roll in. We have to let things evolve in their own time. This restaurant is the focus of a lot of attention right now, and so obviously we feel under some pressure to be innovative. We want that kind of pressure, and we want to lead the way when it comes to new ideas and techniques. But that does not happen overnight, and I’m OK with that. I didn’t move here from the city to continue to stress.” People from all over the world are now visiting Skåne Tranås. How important are your local regulars? “Extremely important. Our definition of a local diner is an inhabitant of Skåne who returns season after season. The aim is to have a good mix of diners who visit the restaurant for a variety of reasons. Some people may come here to celebrate, others might be curious about the food, while some have travelled some distance or are just here on holiday. Shifting diner dynamics have an impact on what we do here. This is a restaurant for the diner, and we must never forget that. If someone is here just to cross us off a list of restaurants to visit, thinking “Daniel Berlin, check”, then we have failed in our mission. We want people to come back, to dine here during a different season or at a different time of year next time. Or to bring someone different along. Regulars who come here and recognise certain things on the menu and are surprised by a few new dishes are the type of diner that leaves me with a profound sense of satisfaction. When that happens the dialogue is often unique, quite unlike the dialogue with international first-time visitors. And when new diners can sit and listen to that dialogue, then their first encounter with Österlen becomes even more pleasurable. A feeling that you are entering a unique, local world on earth. A genuine and exotic sensation.” How far can you take Daniel Berlin Krog? “When I started this restaurant, Österlen was flying well below the gastronomic radar. We never had a visit from Guide Michelin or 50 Best. Nowadays everyone is watching what we do, and that creates a whole new set of challenges for the experience we offer. There are so many different ways to run a good restaurant, I think. It’s my belief that we can improve in all areas, but how do we best go about measuring that? With stars or a place in the top 50? Those are just two ways. What’s important for me is maintaining the basic idea behind the restaurant: producing food that reflects and is from Österlen and Skåne.”

SEGERS

much as we can, and we benefit fantastically from being able to manage in detail what we want supplied. For example, a miniature pointed cabbage or a particular type of flower. If I want lamb, the abattoir is just five minutes from here, and I have the added benefit of always being able to pick exactly the animal I want. I appreciate being able to do that, and it’s a vital component in ensuring that the restaurant maintains its high standards. The downside of working locally is that your options will be limited. Our ingredients are of an exceptional quality, but we are still restricted by what is available in the area. Obviously I love restaurants that serve fantastic scallops, langoustines and similar fare, but for us, that’s simply not possible. It isn’t what we are meant to be. Sourcing ingredients can be extremely tricky at certain times of the year.” How important is it to have your own garden? You surely can’t get more local than that? “We do have our own garden and have always put a lot of work into it, but anything we cannot grow to a sufficiently high standard, we buy in from elsewhere. There is something of a romanticised notion in Sweden about having your own garden. Everyone has to have their own garden these days. I like the idea, but having had a garden for so many years I now have some experience of them, and know that I’m not really a fan. You can never justify putting an ingredient on the menu just because you have grown it yourself. You can only justify that decision if the quality is there. Then, and only then. That is something we fell down on previously. It was often the case that we would serve something just because we had it to hand. We no longer do that. We want to maintain a certain standard that reflects the restaurant’s ambitions. Maintaining a garden is also a very protracted process. If you have a bad season, you sometimes have to wait a year before you can try again. You often need a well-tuned organisation and a system if you want to be able to supply a quality product year after year. Gardening is a time-consuming task. But if it works for you, go for it.” How do the furnishings at Daniel Berlin Krog reflect the locality? “The restaurant needs to reflect our location. The furnishings are relatively simple and I have chosen appropriate natural materials. Things are not super-shiny here, for example. The furnishings are more a reflection of what we serve and how we prepare the food. At the same time it is important for me to have a contact or to feel that everyone is contributing something. Everything that our diners can see here in the restaurant is the result of cooperation with good friends and close partners. My childhood friend Anton from Landskrona made the furniture. Lena from Åhus, who produces our chinaware, is incredibly important. I switch out the artwork every year, but our walls are always adorned with works by a local artist. We haven’t employed an interior designer; instead I’ve chosen most of the furnishings myself. It is my way of creating something that is timeless.” How do you see the future developing for local destination restaurants? “Destination restaurants are fashionable right now, and I do believe that they have a future. When I was travelling ten years ago, people wanted sun, beaches, culture and other things from their travels. Food was just part of the package. Now, however, diners experience so much during a meal and their visit to a restaurant that there is even more reason to travel. The restaurant mirrors its locality and the place you have travelled to. You are

INTERVIEW / DANIEL BERLIN

MAGAZINE

DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1604 201 / CHEF’S JACKET, WOMEN’S. Classic cut, with bust darts, slightly waisted. Concealed closure with snap buttons. 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: C36–C50. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. RRP: € 24,94 excluding VAT. 4078 765 / BIB APRON. Waist tie strap. Double pocket. Kangaroo pocket. Elastic braces sold separately, art. no. 0568. Must be removed before washing. Wash 60°C. Colour: 002 navy mix. RRP: € 41,01, excluding VAT. 0568 449 / ELASTIC BRACES. Adjustable, fastened with leather straps and metal buttons. Must be removed before washing. Colour: 015 black, 028 brown. RRP: € 24,94, excluding VAT.

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1087 769 / CHEF’S SHIRT, SHORT SLEEVE. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Breast pocket, sleeve pocket. Hanging loop in the collar. Slits in the sides. Quality: 47 % linen, 53 % cotton. Size: C46–C60. Colour: 005 blue mix. RRP: € 59,44, excluding VAT. 4076 628 / BIB APRON. Garment washed. Adjustable braces with buttons/buttonholes at the sides. Breast pocket, side pockets with flap, the right one with a key holder. Quality: 100 % cotton denim. Size: Approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour: 076 dark blue. RRP: € 36,85, excluding VAT.

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1085 628 / WAITER’S JACKET, MEN’S. Garment washed. Patterned details. Breast pockets. Side pockets, one with a key holder. Metal buttons. Seams at the back. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality: 100 % cotton denim. Size: C44–C60. Colour: 076 dark blue. RRP: € 63,03, excluding VAT.

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SEGERS

6110 199 / T-SHIRT, WOMEN’S. Fitted design with round neck. Long sleeves. Quality: 95 % cotton, 5 % elastane, approx. 180 g/m2. Size: S-XXL. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. Men’s style also available, art. no. 6111 199. RRP: € 17,53, excluding VAT. 2645 231 / WAIST APRON. Pocket on right side with bellows pleat and key holder. Loop for hanging. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: Approx. 75 x 85 cm. Colour: 024 sand/black, woven check. RRP: € 20,90, excluding VAT.

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1069 271 / CHEF’S JACKET. Stretch satin. Fold up ¾ sleeve. Concealed, slim fit closure with snap buttons. Quality: 57 % cotton, 40 % polyester, 3 % elastolefin. Size: C44–C60. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. RRP: € 93,60, excluding VAT. 2337 231 / BIB APRON. Adjustable neck strap. Pocket on right side with bellows pleat and key holder. Loop for hanging. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: Approx. 75 x 110 cm. Colour: 024 sand/black, woven check. RRP: € 24,16, excluding VAT.

INTERVIEW / KAJODLINGEN

Quayside farmers. Is there any risk involved in farming in the middle of a city? “I understand that people may think there is when you compare an idyllic field in the country with our plot on the quayside. But appearances can be deceptive, as they say. Of course there are rules that say that your crops have to be grown at least 25 metres away from a heavily trafficked main road, but a lot of it also has to do with the soil you use. Here we use our own soil on top of asphalt. There’s no risk whatsoever of any contaminated soil reaching our plants. Then there’s the fact that a field isn’t a protected area just because it is outside the city. The reports I have read clearly show how vulnerable Sweden is to pollution carried on the wind from Russia. The wind has absolutely no regard for national borders. Unfortunately, there is cadmium everywhere. Birds, insects and other pests are present in the countryside and in the city. From a broader perspective, I can’t really see any major differences.” How has the culture of urban farming developed in recent years? “I think pick your own will continue to be popular. In human ecology we talk a lot about people having become entirely disconnected from food production. We Swedes became so sickeningly modern in the 1960s that anything that had to do with soil was abhorrent. Everything had to be in tins or jars. And then suddenly we had cut ourselves off from how food is produced. But now there has been a backlash, in much the same way as with real bread. Suddenly people want to do everything themselves. That reflects some kind of need we all have within us, I think. That things have to be done right. People have been farming for 10,000 years, and it wouldn’t surprise me to learn that it’s in our genes. Here on the quay, for example, we are open for pick your own a couple of days a week. We thought that people would point to what they want and we would have to pick it, but the opposite has happened. People pick the produce themselves and most come back time and again. They get to spend a bit of time around the plants and then go home and eat. We don’t cost any more than regular shops either.” What is your objective? “We started our farm after having been inspired by Curtis Stone in Canada. He realised that there was money to be made from leafy vegetables. Leafy vegetables have worked well for us. We have now started work on a plot on the roof of Clarion Hotel Post, the former post office building – a completely disused space that could supply their restaurants with produce. Otherwise, our objective remains to maximise this space, up to 600-700 square metres per grower. I think that is something that Jonas and I can do. More generally, I hope that more developed areas in the city will be set aside for food production. That people start to view it as a rational enterprise. Out with the nonsense; run it as a business and show people that you can actually live as an urban farmer.”

SEGERS

Two farmers are hard at work on a 300 square metre patch of asphalt at Frihamnen in Gothenburg. William Bailey and Jonas Lindh are the two founders of Kajodlingen, which supplies fresh organic vegetables to the city’s restaurants. “Both Jonas and I studied human ecology and were looking for a way to make the city greener and more resource-efficient. I’m originally from the country and my mum has always grown fruit and vegetables. My interest in farming goes back a long way. Our aim was to grow organic produce but in a commercial manner. To cut through the nonsense and show that it is actually possible to be an urban farmer and grow high-quality produce.” How does the quality of your produce compare with traditional growers? “We have the advantage of being able to deliver produce that is fresh from the ‘field’. The restaurants take delivery a little over an hour after harvesting, which essentially amounts to chefs getting produce from a garden round the back. Obviously, having only 300 square metres of growing space means we have to choose our crops carefully. For example, there’s no money to be made in growing potatoes. Instead, we have chosen to grow microgreens, which make for a more profitable crop when space is limited. Whereas a traditional farmer sows one crop and gets one harvest, we sow multiple crops and try to maximise the number of harvests per season.” What are you growing at the moment? “A lot of brassicas, flowers, beans, rocket and spinach. Flowers start to look a bit sad once harvested, so they really need to be as fresh as possible. Microgreens grow again quickly after harvesting, meaning we can harvest the same area about four times. This year we have trialled a brand new brassica called Wasabina, which we’d got a tip about from a chef who liked its flavour. It proved to be the case that it worked brilliantly with our method of cultivation. Common sorrel is another example of a crop that has worked well for us. Cooperation with ambitious chefs is extremely important in our business.” What do you do to ensure top quality produce? “Provided you have good soil, you’ll have good crops. We spend a huge amount of time getting the soil right. The first year we purchased soil from a supplier here in Sweden and had it delivered to us. This year, however, we have enriched the soil with compost from waste and recycling company Renova here in Gothenburg. Excellent, nitrogen-rich compost that has been recycled from material from the city’s parks. This enables us to create a local intracity cycle and do away with the transport aspect. From what I’ve heard, the rooftop farm enterprise Brooklyn Grange in New York gets much of its compost from Philadelphia. That’s quite a transport distance to then grow organic crops. We’d rather buy direct from the city. And the more freshly harvested the produce, the better it tastes. We don’t have a problem with quality.”

INTERVIEW / KAJODLINGEN

MAGAZINE

DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1706 230 / HAT. Elasticated back. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: S/M (approx. 54–58 cm), L/XL (approx. 59–63 cm). Colour: 018 black/grey, woven check. RRP: € 11,80, excluding VAT. 6106 299 / POLO SHIRT – WOMEN’S. Fitted shape, with short sleeves. Ribbed collar and cuffs. Placket with four buttons. Crescent reinforcement in the neck. Slits in the sides. Quality: 57 % cotton, 40 % polyester, 3 % elastolefin. Size: XS–XXL. Colour: 000 white, 002 navy, 005 blue, 006 light blue, 015 black, 032 orange, 041 red, 053 cerise, 071 bright aqua, 083 apple green. Men’s style also available, art. no. 6107 299. RRP: € 21,12, excluding VAT.

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2645 230 / WAIST APRON. Pocket on right side with bellows pleat and key holder. Loop for hanging. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: Approx. 75 x 85 cm. Colour: 018 black/grey, woven check. RRP: € 20,90, excluding VAT.

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SEGERS

1706 229 / HAT. Elasticated back. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size: S/M (approx. 54–58 cm), L/XL (approx. 59–63 cm). Colour: 078 midnight blue, 116 anthracite, woven stripe. RRP: € 11,80, excluding VAT. 1290 223 / WAITER’S JACKET, WOMEN’S. Slightly waisted design. Short sleeves with back slits. Stand-up collar. Hanging loop in the collar. Snap buttons. Breast pocket. Side pockets in longitudinal seams at the front. Longitudinal seams at the back. Slits in both sides. Stitching in contrasting colour. Quality: 65 % polyester, 35 % cotton. Size XS–XL. Colour: 078 midnight blue, 116 anthracite, mix. Men’s style also available, art. no. 1293 223. RRP: € 70,34 excluding VAT.

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