maga zine
segers
Nº4 2019
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Paul Svensson on sustainable pleasure
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New! Segers creates new chef’s jacket with Atacac
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Amass on zero waste
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Nº4 2019
Fashion company Atacac does things differently. They design their clothes digitally. And they make them on demand – once the customer has clicked buy.
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Impressed and inspired, we let them loose on a chef’s jacket for us. Another company going against the flow is top restaurant Amass, with its zero-waste positioning. They are delighted to tell us about their journey to ever-increasing sustainability. We also talk to Paul Svensson, who is well on his way to
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being known to Swedes as Mr No Waste. Enjoy your read!
Mia Kinn / Marketing Manager at Segers
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FIVE QUICK QUESTIONS / PAUL SVENSSON
FIVE QUICK QUESTIONS PAUL SVENSSON
PHOTO: KNUT KOIVISTO
Creative leader at Fotografiska, regular lecturer focusing on sustainable pleasure.
1. What is your culinary philosophy? That the sustainable option is better in every sense. Not just the pleasure from what’s on the plate, but also how the food got there. 2. What is the thinking behind increasing sustainability in the kitchen? The principle is to match what the ecosystem can actually offer us. A plant-based plate is a sustainable plate. We don’t have to stop eating meat completely – just think more vegetables, along with a small portion of meat. 3. What are you doing to raise the status of vegetables? Number one is to make a vegetarian plate better in every sense than one with meat. Vegetables haven’t been explored or given as much attention as fish and meat. But they can offer unparalleled new experiences every day.
4. You’ve started Paul’s food truck, the pop-up where you order your meal in the spring and get it in the autumn. Tell us about the initiative. Above all, it’s about bringing out how long it takes to get good food on the table. It takes six months to plant, grow and harvest the raw ingredients for the food we serve. The dishes we serve are determined completely by the area available for cultivation at Rosendal. 5. What do we have to do to become more sustainable in Sweden? We must understand that we have to work with nature, and accept what we are given. Today, the chef asks the farmer for x kilo of broad beans. But it should be the other way round, with the farmer saying, “this is what you can have”. We also need to get better at appreciating what’s grown locally. Quality comes when we support our own farmers.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
1260 STRETCH SHIRT, WOMEN’S, XS-3XL. Classic cut, slightly waisted. Men’s style also available, art.no. 1261. Qual. 323: 63/34/3% cotton/polyester/stretch, poplin. Wash 60°C. Colours: 000 white, 015 black. 4576 WAIST APRON, 100 X 50 CM. Double pocket at front centre, with bellows pleat, key holder. Hanging loop. Qual. 628: 100% cotton denim, garment-washed. Wash 60°C. Colours 628: 076 dark blue. 1021 CHEF’S SHIRT, MEN’S, C44-60. Slim fit. Piping around the collar. Loop in collar. Fabric-covered buttons. Slits in the sides. Women’s style also available, art.no.1022. Qual. 261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Colours: 000 white, 015 black. 1706 HAT S/M, L/XL. Elasticated back. S/M (approx.: 54–58 cm), L/XL (approx.: 59–63 cm). Qual. 628: 100% cotton denim, garmentwashed. Wash 60°C. Colours: 076 dark blue. 1073 CHEF’S JACKET, C44-60. Classic straight cut with seams at the back. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Loop outside back of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in collar. Short-sleeved style also available, art.no. 1071. Qual. 628: 100% cotton denim, garment-washed. Wash 60°C. Colours: 076 dark blue.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
1260 STRETCH SHIRT, WOMEN’S, XS-3XL. Classic cut, slightly waisted. Men’s style also available, art.no. 1261. Qual. 323: 63/34/3% cotton/polyester/stretch, poplin. Wash 60°C. Colours: 000 white, 015 black. 4579 BIB APRON, 70 X 100 CM. Adjustable neck strap with snap buttons. Pocket with bellows pleat on right side, key holder. Hanging loop. Qual. 201/280: 65/35% polyester/ cotton, twill. Wash 85°C. Colours: 000 white, 002 navy, 011 light grey, 014 grey, 015 black, 024 sand, 028 brown, 041 red, 033 orange, 038 rust, 083 apple green, 086 olive. 1017 CHEF’S SHIRT, C44-60. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Double pen pocket on left sleeve. Loop in collar. Women’s style also available, art.no. 1012. Qual. 201: 65/35% polyester/cotton, twill. Wash 85°C. Colours: 002 navy, 011 light grey, 038 rust, 086 olive. 4078 BIB APRON, APPROX.: 75 X 90 CM. Waist tie strap. Double pocket. Elasticated braces, art. no. 0568, available separately. Remove before washing. Qual. 282: 65/35% polyester/cotton, Canvas. Wash 85°C. Colours: 043 dark red, 026 khaki, 002 navy, 010 dark grey, 015 black.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
You can easily unbutton and vary the leather straps. In addition, the straps cross at the back, so any strain is on the shoulders instead of the neck.
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INTERVIEW / ATACAC
THEY USE INNOVATIVE METHODS TO DESIGN NEW CHEF’S JACKETS Atacac, the fashion lab at Ringön in Gothenburg, is challenging the way clothes are currently designed, produced and sold. Before making up any samples, they design and present the garments visually using 3D models. Their most recent project was a collaboration with Segers, who briefed them to develop a new stretch-effect chef’s jacket. We met one of the two founders, designer Rickard Lindqvist.
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INTERVIEW / ATACAC
The two founders: designer Rickard Lindqvist and digital creator Jimmy Herdberg. SEGERS MAGAZINE 
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INTERVIEW / ATACAC
Atacac are the pattern designers behind Segers’ new chef’s jacket. How did it all happen? It all started when Anna-Karin (Supply Chain Manager) contacted me. She knew about Atacac and could see the benefits of a collaboration. We arranged a meeting at our factory at Ringön in Gothenburg. Anna-Karin and Mia Kinn (Marketing Manager) brought with them lots of different jackets that we pored over and discussed. We talked about what makes a chef’s jacket. Is it the collar? The sleeves? The lapels? The buttons? Once my questions had been answered and I knew what Segers wanted, I started thinking about patterns and began designing on the computer. And that’s where the creative process begins. What did you do next? We were given a framework for this project. It’s a protective garment that should work whether the wearer is a pizza baker, sushi master or star chef at a luxury restaurant. It should be obvious that it’s a chef’s jacket. And for Segers, the most important thing was for it to have a stretch effect.
we produce the garment in physical form. The way we work means garments have fewer parts than using the traditional way of creating patterns. In turn that means fewer seams. Then what happened? Once we had finished garments, Segers were able to look at them. The process went smoothly, with just two samples before we found a style we were all happy with. The brief was to develop a stretch-effect chef’s jacket. How did it go? Really well. We had to produce a chef’s jacket in the material Segers usually uses. Our brief was to find a natural stretch effect in a rigid fabric. Creating patterns in the classic way can make this seem impossible. But when we create patterns, we lay the fabric out on the bias. In other words, slightly at a slant. By working with the threads we can find natural stretch in the garment. The result was a jacket that allows you to move freely even with an apron on. The stretchiness also makes the garment suitable for both men and women.
I design using a 3D program called Clo. I test and re-test in Clo. When I’m satisfied it looks good on the computer,
“The result was a chef’s jacket that allows you to move freely even with an apron on. The stretchiness also makes the garment suitable for both men and women.”
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INTERVIEW / ATACAC
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INTERVIEW / SEGERS
SEGERS STRETCHES THE BOUNDARIES We will soon have a new jacket in our range. It might look like just one in a crowd. But there is a significant difference that makes it stand out. The chef’s jacket is in a rigid fabric but has natural stretch thanks to an innovative method. The jacket naturally comes with trousers that are just as easy to move around in. Mia Kinn, Marketing Manager, talks about the collaboration.
Why are you working with Atacac? We are very pleased with the fabric we are currently using. The polyester/cotton blend allows the clothes to be washed frequently at high temperatures without losing colour or shape. At the same time, we are constantly trying to offer our customers an even better and more sustainable product. We turned to Atacac because their way of designing allows natural stretch to be obtained from fabric that is otherwise rigid. Why is having a stretch effect important? Sustainable clothing with stretch is something our customers demand. But stretch fabrics present certain challenges. One, stretch material is often too expensive. And two, they lose their elasticity. Which are two reasons why we want to retain our current fabric. And instead change the way we design. How would you describe the project? It has been a fantastically enjoyable and energizing project. It’s obviously exciting to be part of a project where clothes are created in an innovative way – no one has seen anything like this before. The aim of the project was to develop a chef’s jacket with stretch properties without having to change fabric. We have succeeded in that – we can’t be anything but satisfied.
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“It’s obviously exciting to be part of a project where clothes are created in an innovative way – no one has seen anything like this before.”
INTERVIEW / SEGERS
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INTERVIEW / SEGERS
FROM CONCEPT TO FINISHED PRODUCT
The clothes are designed in a 3D program, and Atacac don’t sew a stitch until they feel the pattern is right. This means the fabric is used more economically and waste is reduced.
The natural stretch in the material makes the jackets more unisex and a better fit – whether it’s a man or a woman in the kitchen.
The pattern has fewer parts compared with the classic way. That means fewer seams to be sewn, and we can improve sustainability and efficiency.
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INTERVIEW / SEGERS
2020
You can buy the new chef’s jacket from January 2020.
Atacac’s 3D model of the chef’s jacket.
The method Atacac developed gives us stretch in the otherwise rigid material. It makes the garments more flexible and easier to move around in. This is important for chefs, who have to reach and bend.
The new garments will be part of our standard range, and are available in black and white. The trousers are available in black. Like our other chef’s jackets, it is in 65/35% cotton/ polyester. The cotton carries the BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) label, and 20% of the polyester is recycled. The jackets are in sizes XXS-XXXL, with three-quarter length sleeves that make them stand out in our range.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
Mix and find your own style. This collection is available in a wide range of qualities. Choose from striped, plain and floral.
1271 SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL. Stand-up collar. Outside tab on the collar for apron straps. Cuffs. Breast pocket. Yoke on back with box pleat. Contrasting fabric on some details. Buttonhole with orange thread. Women’s style also available, art. nos. 1272 & 1274. Qual. 321: 65/35% polyester/cotton, melange. Wash 40°C. Colours: 007 denim blue, 076 dark blue.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
1019 CHEF’S SHIRT, C44-60. Slim fit. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Double pen pocket on left sleeve. Loop in collar. Women’s style also available, art.no. 1014. Qual. 201: 65/35% polyester/ cotton, twill. Wash 85°C. Colours: 002 navy, 011 light grey, 038 rust, 086 olive. 1272 BLOUSE, 3/4 SLEEVE, WOMEN’S, XS-3XL. Stand-up collar. Outside tab on the collar for apron straps. Sleeve edge with slit/button. Breast pocket. Contrasting fabric on some details. Buttonhole with orange thread. Men’s style also available, art.no. 1271. Qual. 636: 100% cotton, flower print. Wash 40°C. Colours: 005 blue/white. 4078 BIB APRON, APPROX.: 75 X 90 CM. Waist tie strap. Double pocket. Elasticated braces, art. no. 0568, available separately. Remove before washing. Qual. 282: 65/35% polyester/cotton, Canvas. Wash 85°C. Colours: 043 dark red, 026 khaki, 002 navy, 010 dark grey, 015 black.
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INTERVIEW / AMASS
A BETTER WORLD BEGINS IN COPENHAGEN Top Copenhagen restaurant Amass not only cooks fantastic food, but also does it responsibly. By constantly challenging themselves to throw less away, they bring more pleasure to their guests. They have managed to reduce their waste by 75% in just a few years. We talked to head chef Maximillian Borgemann to find out how on earth they did it.
You’re an important zero-waste player and inspirer. What motivates you? Our main motivation is to cook superb food responsibly. Sustainability should run through everything. We believe that together we can contribute to a food revolution. We’ve certainly come a long way at Amass. But there’s infinitely more to do. We have a strong working relationship with the farmers, and for us it has become like a game to come up with the next cool thing to make us even more sustainable. Your positioning on sustainability is very clear. But how did it all begin? When Amass had been open for a year, founder Matt was really keen to take the step to invest in sustainability. We wanted to cook in a more meaningful way, and run a restaurant we could all be proud of. We decided there and then to constantly challenge ourselves to become more sustainable. The most important thing for us is to have a close working relationship with the farmers. This means that we always have access to choice in-season ingredients. We work with what’s available, which helps us grow as chefs and is very inspiring. At Amass, we put the ingredients at the centre. And we are constantly trying new methods to help us waste as little as possible.
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How do you get new ideas? I’d say Matt has created a culture where everyone working here really wants to improve. Excellent ideas emerge when you have 20 or so people all motivated to constantly raise the bar. We also have a close dialogue with our suppliers and come up with smart new solutions together. What dish are you most proud to have served? It’s one that has always stood out, one that encapsulates our entire food philosophy. It’s made of the whole Crown Prince pumpkin – skin, flesh and guts. We confited the flesh in mushroom oil. We prepared the skin by blackening it. It was kept at 60°C for two months, then puréed. Finally, we topped the dish with fermented and dried pumpkin seeds. The cool thing was that we used the whole pumpkin with nothing wasted. I’m obviously biased, but it was also really delicious. You can preach and prattle about sustainability as much as you like, but unless the food tastes good it’s irrelevant. The great thing is that we’re far from alone in working like this, which feels fantastic.
INTERVIEW / AMASS
“We wanted to cook in a more meaningful way, and run a restaurant we could all be proud of.”
Dish made of the whole pumpkin – skin, flesh and guts.
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INTERVIEW / AMASS
Five things Amass does for the environment Food In principle, we use the whole raw ingredient, and turn skins, seeds and stems into dried flavourings, miso or crisps, for example. Composting What we can’t use in cooking is composted in our garden, becoming food for our worms. Biofuel Everything that can’t be composted, including frying oil and fat, is taken care of by Daka ecoMotion and converted into biogas. Recycling We only work with suppliers that take all plastic and paper packaging back for recycling. Glass and cardboard are recycled. We melt candle stumps in egg cartons to make firelighters. Water By not throwing away half-full bottles of water from the dining room, and water from various operations in the kitchen, we can save 90 litres of water per day. We use it to water plants or heat it for washing floors after closing.
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INTERVIEW / AMASS
Maximillian describes the garden at Amass as the soul of the restaurant. They currently have over 80 different plants, berries, herbs and flowers that they use in their menu every day.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
2645 WAIST APRON APPROX.: 75 X 85 CM. Pocket with bellows pleat on right side, key holder. Hanging loop. Qual. 229: 65/35% polyester/cotton. Wash 85°C. Colours: 078 midnight blue, 116 anthracite, woven stripe. 1261 SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL. Slim fit. Women’s style also available, art.no. 1260. Qual. 323: 63/34/3% cotton/polyester/stretch, poplin. Wash 60°C. Colours: 000 white, 015 black. 4579 BIB APRON, 70 X 100 CM. Adjustable neck strap with snap buttons. Pocket with bellows pleat on right side, key holder. Hanging loop. Qual. 230: 65/35% polyester/cotton. Wash 85°C. Colours: 018 black/grey, woven check.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
1219 SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL. Slim fit. Qual. 305: 55/45% cotton/ polyester, poplin. Wash 40°C. Colours: 015 black. Qual. 306: 60/40% cotton/ polyester, end-on-end. Wash 40°C. Colours: 000 white, 006 light blue, 013 graphite.
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DESIGN / CONCEPT
1228 BLOUSE, WOMEN’S, XS-3XL. Slightly waisted. Open-neck buttoning. Fold-up 3/4 sleeves with pen pocket on left side. Rounded hem. Qual. 305: 55/45% cotton/polyester, poplin. Wash 40°C. Colours: 015 black. Qual. 306: 60/40% cotton/polyester, end-on-end. Wash 40°C. Colours: 000 white, 006 light blue, 013 graphite, 111 light grey.
4574 BIB APRON, APPROX.: 75 X 90 CM. Adjustable neck strap with buttons. No pockets. Qual. 201/280: 65/35% polyester/cotton, twill. Wash 85°C. Colours 201: 011 light grey, 024 sand, 033 orange, 038 rust, 083 apple green, 086 olive. Colours 280: 000 white, 002 navy, 014 grey, 015 black, 028 brown, 041 red, 043 dark red.
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1022 CHEF’S SHIRT, WOMEN’S, C34-50. Slim fit. Piping around the collar. Loop in collar. Fabriccovered buttons. Slits in the sides. Men’s style also available, art.no. 1021. Qual. 261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Colours: 000 white, 015 black.
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Tencel® brand fibre is made of
cellulose and is a sustainable
alternative to cotton. Segers
is working to include more
Tencel® garments in its range.
DESIGN / CONCEPT
1271 SHIRT, MEN’S, XS-3XL. Stand-up collar. Outside tab on the collar for apron straps. Cuffs. Breast pocket. Contrasting fabric on some details. Buttonhole with orange thread. Women’s style also available, art. nos. 1272 & 1274. Qual. 639: 100% cotton, flower print. Wash 40°C. Colours: 076 dark blue.
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DESIGN / SUSTAINABILITY
BETTER FOR YOU, BETTER FOR THE ENVIRONMENT. We are working hard to offer you a product that’s as sustainable as possible. We do this in many different ways. For example, it’s important for us to design timeless garments that incorporate smart solutions to make them comfortable and convenient to wear. And to select materials carefully.
1. Chef’s shirt 1091 is in Tencel®, the environmentally friendly lyocell material. It’s a natural fibre made from cellulose, and produced in closed processes in which all water can be reused. That’s why we are constantly striving to include more Tencel® garments in our range.
2. Chef’s jacket 1605 is made according to an original pattern from the 60’s. Timeless design is at least as important as using a sustainable material, which in this case is hardwearing cotton and polyester.
1091 SHIRT, MEN’S, C44-60. Slim fit. Fabric-covered buttons. Long sleeves with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Yoke, longitudinal seams front/back. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop on outside of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in collar. Qual. 245/261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Tumble dry at max. 50°C, iron dry. Colours: 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black. 1605 CHEF’S JACKET, C44-64. Straight cut with seams at the back. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Loop in collar. Qual. 201: 65/35% polyester/cotton, twill. Wash 85°C. Colours: 000 white, 015 black.
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DESIGN / SUSTAINABILITY
3. Apron 4078 has removable leather straps and is a sustainable choice in two ways. If you need to replace the apron fabric, the straps are easy to remove. In addition, the straps cross at the back, so any strain is on the shoulders instead of the neck.
4. Apron 4574 in Tencel®, the environmentally friendly lyocell material. A fibre made from cellulose. In addition, the adjustable neck strap is wider, making it more comfortable to wear.
4078 BIB APRON APPROX.: 75 X 90 CM. Waist tie strap. Double pocket. Elasticated braces, art. no. 0568, available separately. Remove before washing. Qual. 282: 65/35% polyester/cotton, Canvas. Wash 85°C. Colours: 043 dark red, 026 khaki, 002 navy, 010 dark grey, 015 black. 4574 BIB APRON APPROX.: 75 X 90 CM. Adjustable neck strap with buttons. No pockets. Qual. 245/261: 50/50% polyester/Tencel. Wash 60°C. Tumble dry at max. 50°C, iron dry. Colours: 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black. 4579 BIB APRON, 70 X 100 CM. Adjustable neck strap with snap buttons. Pocket with bellows pleat on right side, key holder. Hanging loop. Qual. 201/280: 65/35% polyester/cotton, twill. Wash 85°C. Colours: 000 white, 002 navy, 011 light grey, 014 grey, 015 black, 024 sand, 028 brown, 041 red, 033 orange, 038 rust, 083 apple green, 086 olive.
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SEGERS FABRIKER AB Fรถretagsgatan 30, 504 64 Borรฅs Tel. +46 (0)33 23 10 00 / www.segers.com / info@segers.com T H I S M AGA Z I N E I S P R I N T E D O N C H LO R I N E - F R E E PA P E R A N D C O M P L I E S W I T H T H E S I S R E Q U I R E M E N T S FO R S W A N E C O - L A B E L L E D PA P E R . P H OTO : A M A S S .
