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S D AR S R AW E N NN AI I R EW AH H B T
Heinz Beck
Time for tea
Michelin Maestro
The art of the perfect brew
Oliver Glowig
Top Chef
Nourish
Healthy eating
Julie Watson
The best in business
The natural choice
Our top 5 airlines
THE VERY BEST OF ITALIAN STREET FOOD
THE ITALIAN JOB Bath
Cathay PaciďŹ c
Kerala
Raspberries
VOL 5 ISS 4
Australia
Editor Charlie Thompson Associate Editor Ali Ahmed Art Director Rebecca Teece Paye Art Editor Maggie Bonner Review Editor Mona Mohammed Online Editor Husain Khaled Social Media Editor Darcey Gibbs Features Editor Nick Baines Contributing Editor Adrian Back Contributing Editor Anthea Rowan Editor-at-Large Marie Barbieri Editor-at-Large Kevin Pilley Feature Correspondent Sophie Ibbotson Feature Correspondent Joe Worthington Feature Correspondent Thomas Williams Editorial Director Arabia Anisa Al Hawaj Executive Director Salah Alhaiki Account Director Oliver Davies Editorial Enquiries editor@foodandtravelarabia.com Sales & Advertising sales@foodandtravelarabia.com General Enquiries info@foodandtravelarabia.com Food and Travel, UK Mark Sansom, editor mark.sansom@foodandtravel.com Food and Travel, Germany Stefanie Will, editor stefanie.will@foodandtravel.com Food and Travel, Mexico Cecilia Núñez, editor cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx Food and Travel, Turkey Mehmet Tel, editor mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr Food and Travel, Italy Marco Sutter, publisher publisher@foodandtravelitalia.com Food and Travel, Portugal Jose Fragoso, publisher jose.fragoso@foodandtravel.com.pt
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WINNER PPA Publisher of the Year Food and Travel Magazine is published by Green Pea Publishing Ltd, Ingate Place, London, UK. Food and Travel & Food and Travel Arabia are published under license from Turnstart Limited, a UK company. Gulf Publishing Ltd, a UK company and Gulf Digital WLL are the exclusive licensed agents for Food & Travel Arabia in the GCC under copyright of Green Pea Publishing. All rights of the licensed material belong to Turnstart Limited and may not be reproduced whether in whole or in part without its prior written consent. The name “Food and Travel” is the property of Turnstart Limited. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the Publisher. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are not accepted and will not be returned
Taste the experience
Experience the taste
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n the Middle East, we are now amongst the world’s most adventurous travellers and gastronomers. Horizons are broad, tastes eclectic. Every month, Food and Travel Arabia brings these two naturally complementary interests together in a single magazine. Food and Travel Arabia is about adventure, the quest for new foods and new flavours, and the discovery of new places and new friends. Our best travel and food writers have been briefed to search the world for exciting destinations, the latest restaurants and the finest cooking. The result is award winning editorial covering the world’s favourite pastimes food, drink and travel. Every month we get up close and personal with some of the region’s kitchen favourites to talk seasonal produce and personal culinary development, inspiration and of course key interviews. Our expert team seeks out gastronomic gems in some of the world’s most exciting destinations marrying food and travel in beautifully photographed features to whet your appetite. Get the low down on the latest in haute cuisine with expert opinion and insights from some of the world’s most talented award winning and Michelin Starred chefs. Read honest and independent hotel and restaurant reviews from around the region and around the world; Recreate the chefs’ favourite dishes at home from our detailed recipe section and follow the progress of your favourite restaurant, hotel or destination throughout the year in the Food and Travel GCC Awards.
Bon Appétit
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April 2018 ARRIVALS 7
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Arrivals Farzi Café, the modern spice bistro from Zorawar Kalra, offers global cuisine with a distinct Indian and Arabic twist, and a touch of molecular gastronomy
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News This month we visit the region’s latest places to stay and eat
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The interview We speak with master of gastronomy, three Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck who has firmly established his unique style of casual fine-dining in Dubai The last word with Julie Watson - her career has taken her from South Africa to Head Chef at Nourish, Dubai. Julie shares her vision of health and wellness through food
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2018 Bahrain Tourism Awards See who has won the accolade of Best in Bahrain
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Come fly with me Our top 5 business class airlines. We haven’t seen such high levels of comfort and service since the golden age of commercial aviation in the 1950’s & 60’s
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Kerala Truly God’s Own Country
There’s no business, like Cathay business We try the rarefied business class service on Cathay Pacific, undeniably one of the world’s leading airlines
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Bath time Discover slices of culture and flavour in this picturesque English town – you just need to know where to go. Let Food and Travel be your guide
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Walking on sunshine Hiking through the Sunshine Coast’s verdant hinterland leads to lichen-flecked rainforests, rock pools and retreats
The pantry This month Clarissa Hyman celebrates raspberries – tart and sweet, these perfumed fruits pair beautifully with vanilla, almonds, chocolate and even game Time for tea - The Art of the Perfect Brew Tetley Master Tea Blender Sebastian Michaelis took time to speak with Food and Travel when he visited Dubai recently The Italian job Street food in Italy can be traced back to Pompeii, where hawkers were immortalised in dust after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius
Recipes This month’s collection of mouth-watering recipes for you to try at home
DESTINATIONS
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Nourish Affordable healthy food, offered in beautifully unique and convenient surroundings
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Places to eat The quest for new foods and new flavours, the discovery of new places & new friends, the latest restaurants and the finest cooking
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Places to stay Exciting destinations, fabulous hotels, serving up the bes the world has to offer
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arzi Café, the modern spice bistro from Zorawar Kalra, is celebrating its second anniversary. This delightful outlet offers global cuisine with a distinct Indian and Arabic twist, and a touch of molecular gastronomy. The menu includes innovative twists on Indian classics such as Smoked Beef Patthar Ke Kabab; marinated and seared slices of tenderloin served with Kashmiri walnut and wasabi cream and Shawarma Biryani; crusted layered rice biryani with grilled chicken served along with fried egg, green chili curry and labneh raita. The menu skilfully embraces Eastern flavours, with the Farzi Mezze, a platter of duck samosa, vin leaf sausage, fatayer falafel, pita, mohamas, walnut and green apple mohamarra hummus and chutney, whilst the dessert selection showcases the artistry and delicacy of the pastry kitchen including Pear Baklava with Pistachio Launji and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Located at Citywalk 2, Dubai +971 4394 2556 Open daily from 10am – 11pm farzicafe.ae
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Arrivals NEWS SMOKING GUNUNGS Looking for a bona fide global hotspot? Witness nature’s majesty on a volcano exploration tour that gives you an insight into the power of the Earth’s core. Ethereal vistas are a given on Selective Asia’s 14-day trip (from £1,249pp) to Java, Indonesia. Here, gunungs (volcanoes) hold deep spiritual significance, and you’ll cycle through villages at the base of smouldering Merapi. You’ll also catch the sunrise over Mount Bromo before riding horseback to the rim of its bubbling crater, and trek to the summit of Mount Ijen. A little closer to home, KE Adventure’s eight-day family trip (from $1,260pp) to the Aeolian Islands and Sicily sees you walk up Mount Etna and witness the ‘Stream of Fire’ on Stromboli, which has ‘erupted’ every 15 minutes since records began. selectiveasia.com keadventure.com
News from the worlds of food and travel
NAUMI AUCKLAND New Zealand It’s time to bid farewell to claustrophobic pod-like vaults that masquerade as airport hotels and say hello to the brand-new Naumi Auckland Airport. It’s great to see the start of an upgrade to pre-flight lodgings and Naumi is leading the design- driven charge when it comes to on-point airport overnighters. Pronounced ‘know-me’. You’ll find it three kilometres down the road from the terminal, the benefit of the distance revealing itself in the form of extra space within the boutiquey rooms and landscaped gardens. A vibrant, playful style ripples throughout, and design by Material Creative pays homage to the iridescent blue-green plumed tui bird, native to the country. Expect bold colour flashes set against earthy tones, 24-carat gold leafed walls, plenty of greenery and eclectic modern art: the tui’s song is captured in Judi Bagust’s visual flurries, which hang over beds. Bathrooms are a geometric dream of black, slate and gold with innovative fuschia, teal and cherry grouting. Most of the 193 nest-like rooms feature patios or balconies and there’s an outdoor pool to enjoy as well as restaurant Paska, offering Asian-inspired dishes that will set you up for the flight ahead. naumihotels.com
AVIGNON FRANCE Enjoy a break on the banks of the Rhône, in Avignon, a medieval city with a certain je ne sais quoi. Start in the old town and get your bearings at the Palais des Papes – the austere 700-year-old site is the largest Gothic palace in Europe. Then have lunch at Christian Étienne. The menu of one- star dishes is a snip at $450pp. christian-etienne.fr or potter around the Rocher des Doms, an urban oasis that overlooks the remains of the medieval St-Bénézet Bridge and River Rhône. Make like an Avignonais and take time out by its peacock-dotted pond. It also has an on-site vineyard and bar where you can try local Côtes du Rhône. There are great galleries here: Musée Angladon displays works by Picasso, Van Gogh and Degas, while Collection Lambert is made for contemporary art fans. But the city’s best- kept secret is the 50 or so trompe-l’oeil frescoes by Dominique Durand and Marion Pochy that adorn buildings. musee-calvet.org collectionlambert.fr A trip to France isn’t complete without sampling serious patisserie. Maison Jouvaud makes some of the finest in Provence. Expect les cloches de Pâques (chocolate bells), elegant cakes and tarts – try one with local apricots. Everything is beautifully packaged and they sell très chic homewares. patisserie-jouvaud.com Bed down at hotel La Mirande, close to the cathedral. It has all the trappings of a palace hotel but comes in at around half the price of its Parisian equivalents. Its cooking school is led by Alain Ducasse protégé Daniel Hébet. la-mirande.fr 8
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ITALIAN STYLE DUBAI
SPRING INTO THE CITY OF SPIRES Czech Republic It was 25 years ago that the Czech Republic parted peacefully from Slovakia in a pact known as the ‘Velvet Divorce’. This year the country, along with Slovakia, is celebrating its 100th anniversary too, so visitors can expect the party to be in full swing. Strolling across one of the medieval bridges which loop the Vltava River in April is the best way to appreciate the place’s majesty. Prague sings in spring and it’s the best time to visit before the summer hordes arrive. Enjoy the gentle charm of hidden gardens shaded by tulip trees, and a litre or two of Pilsner Urquell on Little Square as you watch city life roll on by. In April, Old Town Square hosts its annual Easter Market. It’s a visual feast of painted eggs and flower garlands with a backdrop of baroque buildings painted in sorbet hues. Farmers’ markets begin again in earnest, too, as crops rise from their slumber. Try Naplavka for white indigenous asparagus, Holešovice, to mingle with muddy-fisted farmers punting their wares of beautifully aged pork and Jirák for regional snacks such as wild garlic and butter on wedges of fresh bread. On 30 April, locals celebrate Pálení Carodejnic (Witches’ Night), a pagan farewell to winter’s evil spirits. From 7pm, the gothic streets around St Nicholas Church are haunted by ghouls, ghosts and gremlins, who parade to Kampa Park to burn witch effigies. Watch the procession from the roof terrace of the Domus Henrici hotel domus-henrici.cz – a top-value option in a medieval building which was once owned by Emperor Rudolf II. L’Fleur lfleur.cz on V Kolkovne in the Old Town, channels the atmosphere of Jazz Age Paris with its flickering chandeliers and enormous bubbly list. The dining scene is also developing rapidly. Michelin-starred restaurant Field fieldrestaurant. cz is our dinner pick, serving up traditional produce such as pike perch and verjus reimagined in contemporary dishes, while Kantýna kantyna.ambi.cz is the place to go for a quick lunch. This former Ringhoffer bank reopened last year as a temple to Czech meat, incorporating several butchers’ shops and an excellent steak house. prague.eu
GIA Dubai is the new Italian restaurant located at The New Fashion Avenue at The Dubai Mall. Airy bright whites and a palette of light colours add a touch of chic style to the dining room, blending classy modernity with a twist of retro. Dine Alfresco on the terrace, with its cosmopolitan elegance and fantastic views of The Dubai Fountain, or try the intimate private dining room for somewhere away from the spotlight, either way this is a stylish, informal venue for any time of the day or night. Despite its contemporary feel, the cuisine reflects traditional Italian ’trattoria’ style recipes. Hand-picked ingredients bring genuine Italian heritage and flavour to the menu, especially crafted by Tuscany’s own Tommaso Gonfiantini. The menu pays homage to the classics, perfectly balancing the rustic with the avant-garde, offering ndulgent classics that are hard to resist, such as the Lasagna, with a secret blend of cheese fondue, a range of signature appetizer including the Polpette Al Sugo, slow cooked Wagyu beef meatballs in a fresh tomato sauce; Fegatini Di Pollo and Parmigiana Di Melanzane. Mains feature Ossobuco E Risotto Alla Milanese, veal shank and bone marrow with a saffron risotto, Branzino de Sale, a salt encrusted and slow roasted sea bass dish perfect for sharing, and of course freshly prepared pasta and pizza. And to finish your meal, Chef Tommaso has kept the deserts nostalgic, yet full of flavour, with a traditional Tiramisu Classico, Baba Ai Frutti Di Bosco and Profiteroles Nutella & Nocciole. Tel: +971 4 234 9986
BEACH CHIC Ras al Khaimah Located on the shores of the Arabian Gulf, a short drive from the urban sprawl of Dubai, The Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Hamra Beach is the perfect getaway, seamlessly blending natural beauty and timeless luxury to create an intimate beach retreat. The resort features 32 luxurious tented villas, each with its own pool and direct beach access, offering comfort and privacy complemented by breath-taking views and indulgent amenities. Two villa types are available: the Al Naseem Villas featuring designs inspired by traditional Bedouin architecture, which offer an elevated level of seclusion, while the Al Bahar Villas include open views and private beachfront access. Discover the natural beauty of the area with an afternoon of paddle boarding, a fishing trip on the coast of Ras Al Khaimah, a sunrise or sunset yoga experience overlooking the seashores, or simply relax on the resort’s private beach. Young guests can enjoy the Ritz Kids® program, where they can explore the beachfront, gain a better understanding of the marine life through educating yet fun beach activities, or develop their inner artist with beach-inspired arts and crafts. The Ritz-Carlton Spa offers holistic treatments in the comfort of dedicated treatment pavilions; and two fitness centres are available 24 hours a day. The culinary scene offers a tempting array of fresh seafood and cuisines prepared with a local twist alongside tranquil sea views from the resort’s signature Shore House restaurant. And for those of you who want a more private dinner experience can dine on the beachfront, in a secluded beach cabana overlooking the crystal blue waters of the Arabian Gulf. www.ritzcarlton.com
FLIGHT OR FRIGHT UAE Ras Al Khaimah’s new Jebel Jais zip-line has flown into the Guinness World Records to be crowned the world’s longest zip- flight. Launch from a height of 1,680m, hitting speeds of 93mph as you whizz 2.83km over the UAE’s tallest mountain peak. Only the brave need apply. $180pp. toroverdeuae.com
DOLCE VITA BRUNCH ABU DHABI Cipriani Yas Island presents its ‘Dolce Vita’ brunch experience. Served once a month, traditional Italian delicacies and free flowing bubbles await you. The new brunch menu is built around simple Italian food made to perfection, blended with offerings from the popular Japanese inspired Yotto menu and of course Cipriani’s outstanding hospitality. Savour a selection of fine appetisers, rich main courses and irresistible desserts, all prepared to be shared and served, directly to the table. In addition, a live sushi chef prepares exquisite specialities. To begin, appetisers encompass an array of Maki and Cipriani signature favourites including, Burrata with Cherry Tomato and “Taggiashe Olives”, Calamari Fritti with Tartar Sauce, and Aubergine Parmigiana, Vitello Tonnato. Mains include Lightly Baked Taglionlini Cipriani with Veal Ragu, Chicken alla Milanese or Grilled Salmon Teriyaki. To finish an array of delectable desserts include, Cipriani cakes, fresh sorbets and indulgent ice creams. With seasonal changing menus and touches including live artisan mixology for the spirited occasion, the all-Italian team present the hottest new brunch offering in town. The Cipriani Yas Island ‘Dolce Vita’ Brunch takes place once a month from 1pm to 5pm. Upcoming dates include April 13 & May 11. Prices start at $120pp. For more information visit www.ciprianiyasisland.com or call +971 265 75 400 10
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THE INTERVIEW
H E IBN Z ECK Master of gastronomy, three Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck has firmly established his unique casual fine-dining in Dubai hen sitting down with Heinz Beck to discuss his storied culinary career it does not take long to fully appreciate his unrelenting drive and intense work ethic. In Dubai for just two days to deliver a seven-course menu at his signature restaurant, Social at the Waldorf Astoria, the acclaimed chef has barely stepped outside the kitchen, let alone the front door of the hotel. But this is normal practice for the German-born chef who has taken Italian cuisine to new heights. For more than two decades he has worked night and day to help La Pergola achieve and maintain three Michelin stars. For Beck, a day off is a rarity and a holiday is taken just once in a blue moon. “You know a very interesting man said once that if you do something you love then you will never work a day in your life,” Beck says during a brief moment outside the kitchen. “I am never crying about hours spent in the kitchen or working. I am never thinking about having more time off. I don’t care about it.
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“For Beck, a day off is a rarity and a holiday is taken just once in a blue moon.” “The day’s where I work less it is like 16 hours and I tend to work seven days a week. My last day off was August 27 and my next is December 25. “You know from 1984 until 1991 I didn’t even have a vacation. But I didn’t even think about it as I was working the whole time. There was never really time for a holiday. It was the same from ’91 to ’99, I didn’t have a vacation either. But it was okay, it never entered my mind and it didn’t bother me at all.” As you would expect then, a two-day trip to Dubai is not viewed as a holiday. And while Beck may have been working on his sevencourse menu for a number of months, once he arrived he rarely spends a moment outside of Social’s kitchen. “I don’t have time to try other restaurants or do anything else really. I come here to Dubai for two days and for two days I stay in the kitchen,” reveals Beck. “When I am here I have to stay with my staff and work with them. We work on new dishes, new menus and new concepts. So two days is almost nothing. FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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THE INTERVIEW HEINZ BECK
This spread, clockwise: Lobster medallions; Smoked scallop tartare and red beet shell; Amberjack; Heinz Beck in the kitchen at Social; Lamb rack.
“We work for five months on creating something new in order for it to be perfect. But of course you have to be prepared for things to go wrong. Take this meal for example, we are having to change two of the seven dishes because of problems with suppliers. So just one hour before the meal we are making changes.” This is the kind of scenario that Beck thrives in. Even some 37 years after first entering the kitchen, he loves the challenges that present themselves on an almost daily basis. It is obvious that he adores his work, so it is somewhat surprising to hear that food was not his first love. “I didn’t want to become a chef at all, I actually wanted to be a painter,” says Beck. “But my father didn’t want me to go to art college as he saw it more as a hobby. “He actually wanted me to study something serious, like economics or business. In the end the first job I found was working in a kitchen and at 16 that allowed me to leave home. Even since then I have been in the kitchen.” The art world’s loss has certainly been the culinary world’s gain with Beck earning an impressive array of awards and accolades over the past three decades. Having quickly discovered that he had a natural talent when it came to cooking, his artistic nature also meant he could create dishes of rare beauty. “If you look at my dishes you will see that I am working with forms and colours,” he says. “Of course I’m very much into beauty and for this, the fact that I wanted to be a painter, for sure I am doing this as a chef. 14
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“We work for five months on creating something new in order for it to be perfect.” “I found a way to express myself and I am very happy to have become a chef. It was not easy in the beginning, but I am very happy I chose to work in that first kitchen.” Beck does still love to paint, and he proudly produces images of his latest creation which can be found in a small art gallery in Italy. But the time restraints he places on himself make it impossible for him to have a dual career as an artist and a chef. Instead he remains firmly focused on creating new dishes and helping La Pergola maintain it’s status as one of Italy’s finest restaurants. But having been head chef at the restaurant since 1994, was he not ever tempted to leave once the three stars were awarded? “No, never. I like Rome, I like my staff, I married a Sicilian. Why should I leave? I am not the type of person to think about what comes next,” admits Beck. “To be honest I thought I would only be there for two years. It seemed a great way to learn a new language and a new culture. Now it is 23 years later and I couldn’t imagine being anywhere else.” Much has changed for Beck since he made the move to Rome. He started with a small team of cooks who were simply hoping to create good food. Then when recognition started to come their way, the objectives changed and now they take great pride in making sure Michelin does not take away their stars. “You don’t really think about success, it just happens,” he says. “When we first started my first brigade was five in the kitchen, four plus me. And when we got our first star it was that team.” “Even when we got the second there was just six of us. And with the third there was only eight. Now there is 22 people and we are much more settled. We have our awards and we work to make sure we will not lose them for a very long time. “But perhaps most important is that we are still busy. For 21 years the restaurant has been fully booked. There is not one single day that there has been a spare seat. So these are the real rewards as the restaurant is not small.” Keeping the restaurant busy for more than two decades is no easy task but Beck’s insatiable desire to create means the food is FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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THE INTERVIEW HEINZ BECK
This page: Fagotelli Carbonara; Social by Heinz Beck dining room; Heinz Beck in at the Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah
always evolving. “You see me now with the boys, we are changing something every single day,” says Beck. “I hope it will last, that I still do new things and have new ideas. The day I have nothing else to say will be the day I retire.” Fortunately that day seems a long way in the future. It is impossible to imagine Beck being anywhere but in the kitchen and that is thanks in large to the role played by his wife, Teresa. The pair met in Italy and have become partners in every way. Teresa not only shares her husband’s love for food, but also his incredible work ethic. “I can tell you she does not take days off either,” says Beck. “The company is Beck and Maltesa and we are running everything. It is 14 restaurants worldwide. You have to think about how much logistic, administrative and financial work that is. “I was very happy I met my wife as she made the company happen. Every day she has statistics and numbers and every day I come home and we have a briefing. I am married now for 17 years and I have never found her in pyjamas or in bed. And I come home late, normally around 2am.” So while Heinz is the creative force, it seems it is Teresa who has the head for business. And with such demand for Beck’s food, there are always those interested in working with the husband and wife team. “All of the work is through Teresa. She makes the strategies, does 16
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all of the administration and the logistics. It’s quite a different set up to all these famous chefs,” he adds. “They have a company and are running the business for lots of people. For us it is different, the company is just the CEO, Teresa and one operational manager, Heinz, that is it. “I do the operation part and I know we will open something soon in Milan but don’t ask me more because I don’t make the deals. That is purely Teresa. I don’t think ahead at all.” Clearly the partnership is working well and the pair’s ravenous appetite for work means we will likely be seeing much more from Heinz Beck. And for food lovers around the world, that can only be a good thing.
Words: Adrian Back Images: Waldorf Astoria, F&TA; iStock
“When we first started my first brigade was five in the kitchen, four plus me. And when we got our first star it was that team.”
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PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY
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Raspberries KEY IN G RED IENT:
MACERATED RASPBERRIES; RASPBERRY SAUCE; RASPBERRY DRESSING; RASPBERRY AND LEMON THYME VINEGAR RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
o give someone a raspberry is a delicate, poetic, Jane Austen-esque gesture: to blow them one, however, is something else altogether. It seems curious that the fruit has attracted such a vulgar double meaning, but it is true the raspberry induces both delight and distress. The latter, in food circles at least, is largely on account of a design fault – its seeds. To fans such as myself they are barely noticeable and, when so, are part of the berry’s unique charm. Exquisite in shape and colour, the fruits possess a captivating
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fragility and an intermingling of both tart and sweet juices. The flavour shot is intense. As a wise woman once said, nobody can be insulted by raspberries and cream. On the other hand, some people simply cannot get over the seeds. They get stuck in their teeth. They are rough and raspy in the mouth. Such fussy types insist on sieving them out when making jam, a wimpish move that, to my mind, strips the fruit of character. Believed to originate in the east, raspberries have a rich, exotic look and
beautiful perfume that stamps the berry, according to writer Waverley Root, as ‘Made in Asia’. The finest raspberries of antiquity were said to have been found on Mount Ida in Turkey, which accounts for the botanical name, rubus idaeus. Raspberries are said to have been around since prehistoric times but were only widely cultivated in Europe during the 16th century. At this time they were mostly cooked or used as the basis for cordials and drinks, as fresh fruit was commonly regarded as harmful to the digestive system. FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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THE PANTRY SWEET RASPBERRY, CUCUMBER AND | MINT TABOULI RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
The Old English name for raspberry was ‘raspis’, connected possibly to ‘raspise’, a sweet, rose-coloured wine. It was also once called a ‘hindberry’, its leaves loved by female red deer (hinds). Uncultivated fruit has an outstanding flavour, so canes (cuttings with a piece of root) taken from the wild are often planted by horticulturalists and crossed to improve yield and disease resistance. But its natural habitat is damp woods, and it likes a cooler climate. Some of the best commercial raspberries in Britain are grown around Blairgowrie in Perthshire. The raspberry is a richly coloured, triangular fruit, with velvety, slightly hairy 20
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drupelets clustered tightly around a central core. When ripe, the small, cup- like fruit comes away from this solid centre, which remains as a hard, white cone on the stem. It makes the picking easy, and the consumption easier still. Raspberry cultivation is not especially dif cult: it is more about a need for space than constant care. The main thing to consider is that once a cane has fruited, the whole branch dies and should be cut away to allow new canes to rise from the base. Different varieties crop at different times: Glen Ample is the most widely grown, with the extra-large berries appearing throughout
July. Glen Moy is also regarded as a connoisseur’s choice: the Royal Horticultural Society has given the fruit its Award of Garden Merit. Heritage Red is a late-fruiting berry with excellent flavour that also makes good jam, as does Tulameen, but the mainstay is Autumn Bliss. As gardener Sarah Raven notes, the good thing about autumn berries is you don’t have to net; at this time of year, birds have plenty of choice of feed. Red is the usual colour, but there are also white, yellow and golden raspberries. Tart black ones, which are known as Black Caps, are common in the Eastern US and
THE PANTRY
ROSE AND RASPBERRY PANNA COTTA WITH FAIRY FLOSS AND ROSE PETALS
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THE PANTRY
RASPBERRY AND COCONUT SEMIFREDDO RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
Canada, and are good for cooking, juicing and country wine. In summer and autumn, look for firm, dry berries with a good colour. They’re best when fully ripened on the cane and are highly perishable, so avoid punnets stained with juice: this is a sign the fruit is past its best. Don’t buy ones that are damaged, shrivelled or have brown spots, and try to use them on the day you buy them. If you can resist eating them ‘au natural’, there are endless ways to prepare them. 22
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Paul Hollywood uses the fresh fruit in Danish pastries, Peter Gordon suggests folding them into a mix of cream, yoghurt and honey to make an easy honey fool pudding, while Eric Lanlard adds basil to the berries to boost their flavour in an intriguing baked raspberry and basil tart. Raspberries are a quintessential fruit of summer, part of seasonal pleasures such as pavlova, peach Melba, raspberry cranachan and summer pudding. Their flavour pairs with almonds, honey, vanilla,
cinnamon, chocolate and red wine, but also works with poultry and game. Raspberry vinegar was once a popular remedy for sore throats or as a basis for summer drinks diluted with soda. It came back into vogue with the fashion for nouvelle cuisine in the latter years of the 20th century, and it still has its place in the repertoire of marinades and salad dressings. And if you’re still worried about those pesky seeds, I can only use the F-word. Floss.
FOOD FOCUS
RASPBERRY AND WHITE CHOCOLATE BAKED CHEESECAKE
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BOOK A LUXURY ROOM WITH GRAND SEA VIEW INCLUSIVE OF BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER FOR 2 Complimentary Full Board for children below 12 years old, up to 2 per room. Valid during weekdays only (Sat - Wed) OFFER VALID UNTIL 30TH APRIL 2018. Terms & Conditions Apply
SOFITEL BAHRAIN ZALLAQ THALASSA SEA & SPA
105 ZALLAQ HIGHWAY, BUILDING 2015, BLOCK 1055, ZALLAQ AREA, P.O. BOX 5554 MANAMA, KINGDOM OF BAHRAIN TEL. +973 17 63 63 63 - FAX. +973 17 63 63 64 EMAIL: H6722@SOFITEL.COM - WEBSITE: WWW.SOFITEL.COM/6722
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“To the winners my congratulations, to the finalists well done and if at first you don’t succeed, try, try again – because you will get better and better with every day.” - Paul Bocuse
We called and you answered in your millions to help us choose the best of the best for the 2018 Food and Travel Bahrain Awards. So a big thank you to all those who helped make it happen. From the initial call for nominations back in February to the gala awards FHUHPRQ\ WKDW ZDV KHOG DW +RWHO 6RÀWHO %DKUDLQ RQ 20th March 2018, it was a journey of epic proportions. The results were closer than we could ever have imagined and our expert panel once again had a hard time in picking the winners in some categories. The gala dinner was a packed affair with a stunning PHDO IURP WKH DPD]LQJ WHDP DW 6RÀWHO DQG D VSHFLDO thanks to all our sponsors for their support and vision throughout the year. Read on to see who won the coveted Food and Travel gongs... Salah Alhaiki, Executive Director
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CATEGORIES TOP TABLE: • CARÊME AWARD • EXECUTIVE CHEF OF THE YEAR • CHEF OF THE YEAR • RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR • HOTEL OF YEAR
• THAI CUISINE • CHINESE CUISINE • JAPANESE CUISINE • CONTEMPORARY INDIAN CUISINE • ASIAN FUSION CUISINE • FINE DINING AWARD
RESTAURANTS: • BREAKFAST • AFTERNOON TEA • RAMADAN TENT • BRUNCH • BEACH CHIC • FAMILY RESTAURANT • RISING STAR • HEALTHY DINING • ALL DAY CASUAL • ON THE TOWN • CASUAL CHIC • STEAKHOUSE & GRILL • INTERNATIONAL CUISINE • CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC CUISINE • MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE • MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE • INDIAN CLASSIC CUISINE
HOTELS: • 4 STAR HOTEL • 4 STAR RESORT • FAMILY RESORT • CITY HOTEL • BUSINESS HOTEL • WEEKEND DESTINATION HOTEL • 5 STAR RESORT HOTEL • 5 STAR HOTEL OTHER CATEGORIES: • LOCAL PRODUCE CHAMPION • SPECIALIST RETAILER • ARTISAN FOOD • BANQUETING • SPA
BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
HOTEL OF THE YEAR A worthy winner amongst top competition
Swiss-Belhotel Seef Swiss-Belhotel Seef Bahrain punches well above its weight; a 4-star international hotel that provides excellent facilities and high standards of service, located in Bahrain’s central business and commercial district and only a 20-minute drive from Bahrain International Airport and ideally convenient for both Seef and Bahrain City Centre Mall. The guest rooms and public areas boast breathtaking panoramic ocean and city views. The hotel has a wide range of facilities, including large guest rooms and suites, a fully equipped gymnasium and pool area, as well as extensive banquet and specialty dining venues, delivering a truly welcoming environment for both business and leisure travellers. swiss-belhotel.com
RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR A restaurant for your bucket list
CUT by Wolfgang Puck Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay The critically acclaimed CUT by Wolfgang Puck, widely recognized as one of the top steak restaurants in the world, is located in the Four Seasons Bahrain Bay. Entrance is via a dramatic spiral staircase from the lounge & bar below, taking you into sleek modern décor of this tribute to fine meats and beyond. The menu features a vast array of the finest beef and produce available; from prime dry and wet-aged beef to shellfish sautéed and roasted whole fresh fish. Diners are treated to a view of the international celebrity chef’s stateof-the-art kitchen and a striking panorama that extends over the pool, across the Hotel’s lush grounds to the sparkling vista of the Manama skyline. fourseasons.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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CHEF OF THE YEAR We honour a chef who’s passion and dedication shines through. Step forward the man of the moment... Brian Becher
CUT by Wolfgang Puck – Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay The panel spent a great deal of time debating, what was another very close call and probably one of the most difficult decision of the awards. Chef Brian’s evident passion and unbridled talents have helped to keep Wolfgang Puck’s exceptional restaurants in the Four Seasons at the head of a very talented pack. We look forward to seeing more from this exceptional chef. fourseasons.com
INTERNATIONAL CHEF OF THE YEAR What more can we say about this legend of French cuisine...
Christian Knerr
Ritz-Carlton Bahrain Chef Christian was first exposed to the culinary world at the age of 16 through an internship training program in Reit im Winkl in Germany. He joined The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain from the world-renowned Harrods London, where he served as the Executive Chef of the entire mall culinary operations. Prior to Harrods, Christian has a wealth of international experience including the Executive Chef at the pre-opening phase of the InterContinental Hotels Group in Dubai Festival City. And the pre-opening team at the Fairmont Raffles Hotel in Manila. ritzcarlton.com
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BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
THE CARÊME AWARD What more can we say about this legend of Italian cuisine, who receives this award for his outstanding contribution to the industry Oliver Glowig Ritz-Carlton Bahrain Chef Oliver Glowig earned his first Michelin Star at the ‘Acquarello’ restaurant in Munich in 2001 before departing to follow his passion for Italian food at the Capri Palace on Italy’s Amalfi coast. In 2010 this accomplished chef set his sights on Rome to showcase his unique take on classic Italian cuisine, very quickly earning two Michelin stars for his eponymous restaurant at the chic Hotel Aldrovandi Villa Borghese, with its breath-taking views overlooking the Eternal City. www.oliverglowig.com ritzcarlton.com
BEST 5 STAR HOTEL It just keeps winning ...
Four Seasons Resort An architectural icon on its own exclusive island, Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay towers on the north-eastern waterfront of Manama, capital city of Bahrain. Unparalleled in design, this 68-storey tower is an urban hotel with a resort-style atmosphere. The 273 guest rooms and suites are enhanced by six restaurants and bars, including outlets from superstar chef Wolfgang Puck, a spa and five swimming experiences. fourseasons.com
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BEST 5 STAR RESORT HOTEL
Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain is a sophisticated and elegant resort close to the city, yet far enough away to retain its serene atmosphere. Set amongst lush gardens and sandy beaches the hotel provides a lavish welcome. Whether you choose to stay in the main hotel or one of the secluded villas, try one of the many fine restaurants or relax in the spa, the Ritz-Carlton will cosset you in luxury every moment of your stay. ritzcarlton.com
BEST WEEKEND DESTINATION HOTEL
Hotel Sofitel Bahrain Located on the pristine waters of Zallaq and with the only spa on the island dedicated to thalassotherapy, and every room boasting a sea view. French hospitality combined with elements of Arabian décor and a definite focus on luxury, resonate an opulent style in every space. The hotel boasts some of the best restaurants on the island making it a culinary destination in its own right. sofitel.com
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BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
BEST BUSINESS HOTEL
InterContinental Regency Bahrain Modern-classic design meets timeless hospitality at this luxury Bahrain hotel. Conveniently located in Manama Centre, close to the Bahrain World Trade Centre and its elegant shopping mall, across from Bahrain Financial Harbour, easy access for City Centre Mall and just a short stroll from Manama Souk, this luxurious hotel features stylish rooms, suites and butler service, stunning views and an array of places to eat and drink. Let the expert team at the Regency indulge your every need throughout your stay. Ihg.com
BEST CITY HOTEL
Westin City Centre Bahrain Ideally located in the heart of Manama, The Westin Bahrain City Centre is the first-ever Westin Hotel to grace the island. Thoughtfully devised with a host of novel and innovative facilities, guests are afforded the opportunity to sample the unique Westin feel-good promise when staying for business or leisure. The Westin is attached to City Centre Bahrain, the island’s most popular retail and leisure destination with more than 340 retail stores. One of the hotel’s two entrances leads directly to the mall’s ground floor, and is a few steps away from the luxurious Saks Fifth Avenue department store. www.westinbahraincitycentre.com
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BEST FAMILY RESORT
ART Rotana Reminiscent of the iconic Jumeirah Beach Hotel the ART Rotana provides a tranquil and secluded ocean front oasis, with a private beach that enjoys the gently lapping warm waters of the Gulf. All of the 311 luxurious rooms and suites are ocean facing; and with a wide array of 5 Star luxuries, the hotel is an ideal haven for families, couples and business travellers alike. The hotel enjoys a wide range of restaurants and bars, and facilities that are sure to make any stay a special experience. rotana.com
BEST 4 STAR RESORT
Elite Resort & Spa Tucked away just off the Sheikh Hamad Causeway, Elite Resort & Spa offers a haven of tranquillity and relaxation. This resort has magniďŹ cent views of Bahrain Bay, and features spacious modern suites complete with the latest amenities including a fully ďŹ tted kitchen, a home theatre system with surround-sound and stereo DVD. Elite Resort & Spa promises a great escape in the heart of the city. elitegrouphotels.com
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BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
BEST 4 STAR HOTEL
Swiss-Belhotel Once again a worthy winner. Swiss-Belhotel Seef Bahrain provides excellent facilities and high standards of service. The hotel has a wide range of facilities, a fully equipped gymnasium and pool area, as well as extensive banquet and specialty dining venues; the hotel provides varied accommodation, dining and meeting facilities to ensure a truly welcoming environment for both business and leisure travellers. swiss-belhotel.com
BEST RESIDENCE
The Diplomat Radisson BLU Hotel, Residence & Spa Located in the heart of Manama’s business and diplomatic area, the Diplomat Radisson has an impressive lobby. The residence has large, sea-facing rooms that are understated and tasteful. The hotel also offers a gym with sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, a swimming pool, squash courts, oodlit tennis courts, a spa and a choice of beautifully designed restaurants and bars. www.radissonblu.com
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BEST SPA
Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay The Spa at the Four Seasons is a well-deserved winner in a hotly contended category. The Spa encompasses four interconnected buildings woven together with pathways and gardens with modern design filled with natural light, reflecting modern Moroccan and Turkish influences. Treatments, including a signature Bahrain massage, are inspired with traditional healing therapies from Asia, India and the Middle East, making it the perfect place to relax and experience sheer indulgence. fourseasons.com
BEST BANQUETING
ART Rotana
Elegant and modern, ART Rotana offers an exquisite venue to commemorate any celebration event. The Thuraya ballroom welcomes you with impeccable style: private reception area, incredible menu options and seamless service. The hotel caters to both small and large events, live entertainment, beautiful table decorations, with indoor or outdoor locations suitable for all events and occasions. rotana.com
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BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
FINE DINING AWARD
Primavera Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain Offering an inspired twist on the Trattoria Moderna style, chef Oliver Glowig’s menu successfully marries the best of authentic Italian cooking with local flavours and ingredients, delivering a refreshing gastronomic experience for the discerning diner. The sophisticated charm of the discreet Italian décor provides an inviting ambiance to enjoy the reinterpreted signature dishes of chef Oliver. A visit to Primavera is truly memorable epicurean experience. ritzcarlton.com
ASIAN FUSION CUISINE
Re Asian Cuisine | Wolfgang Puck Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay Sitting in the serene and simple art-deco elegance of re Asian Cuisine, you can see the Wolfgang Puck touch everywhere, from the mouth-watering culinary treasures of his innovative Asian cuisine to the understated luxury and personal service; matched by only by the sweeping vista of the Bahrain skyline commanded by the 50th floor restaurant. Let your senses take you for a gourmet journey. fourseasons.com
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CONTEMPORARY INDIAN CUISINE
Rasoi by Vineet The Gulf Hotel
Watch the talented chefs at work as you dine in the elegant comfort of this chic restaurant. With a verve to excel, an innate desire to make a statement, and boundless energy, chef Vineet serves the best of India on every plate; enjoy a heart-warming adventure through his modern re-telling of India’s favourite dishes. Enjoy the contrast in textures & flavours of imaginative dishes that will delight your palate. gulfhotelbahrain.com
JAPANESE CUISINE
Mirai
This long-established innovative Japanese restaurant shows that you can stick with success. The trendy restaurant has a relaxed in-vogue ambience and is the ideal setting for a relaxing lunch or night on the town. Let the intricate flavours dance over your taste-buds as you savour the modern interpretation of fine Japanese cuisine. mirai- restaurant.com
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BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
INDIAN CLASSIC CUISINE
Nirvana Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain The very name ‘Nirvana’ is evocative of the essence of India and immediately prepares your senses for something special as you soak up the opulent décor and sophisticated atmosphere, as modern chic blends seamlessly with ageold tradition in this restaurant. Complex flavours and delicate aromas slowly engulf your senses as you savour the delights of the fragrant dishes. ritzcarlton.com
STEAKHOUSE & GRILL
CUT by Wolfgang Puck Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay The critically restaurant is widely recognized as one of the top steak restaurants in the world, is located in the Four Seasons Bahrain Bay. Entry is via a dramatic spiral staircase from the lounge & bar below, taking you into the sleek modern décor of this tribute to fine meats and beyond. fourseasons.com
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MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE
CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC CUISINE
Masso
La Vinoteca Barcelona
An established favourite of the Adliya dining set chef Susy Masseti brings her own unique style and passion to Masso. Sitting beside the Palace Boutique Hotel, Masso has become one of the go-to places; the décor complements the innovative Italian cuisine. massorestaurant.com
Enjoy a little piece of Iberia at La Vinoteca Barcelona, a stylish and relaxed restaurant that celebrates the passionate culture and gastronomy of Spain with a selection of Mediterranean tapas and signature dishes prepared from quality produce by Spanish chefs. vinotecabcn.com
The Palace Boutique Hotel
MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE
Golestan Iranian Restaurant
Royal Thai
Situated in the Sheraton Hotel this authentic Iranian restaurant offers appetizing, delicately flavoured specialties and fresh home-baked breads. Golestan combines a fusion of classic Iranian style with contemporary elements in a magnificent setting. Golestan imbues the greatest of Persian arts, hospitality coupled with delicious dining makes any visit a memorable experience. www.golestanbahrain.com
The décor of the large restaurant has an authentic Asian feel, to accompany some of the best Thai cuisine available in Bahrain. gulfhotelbahrain.com
Sheraton Bahrain Hotel
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THAI CUISINE
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
The Gulf Hotel
BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
Cantina Khalo
ON THE TOWN
Bushido
Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain Chef Cesar De Leon Torres brings a wealth of talent and his authentic Mexican cuisine to the Ritz-Carlton Bahrain; mouth-watering traditional dishes, impressive cocktails and Mexican chic decor provide a genuinely vibrant atmosphere. ritzcarlton.com
CASUAL CHIC
Bushido has an opulent and refined décor, juxtaposed to the blend of world lounge music, which slowly evolves into a more dynamic ethno-house style as the night progresses; and its cuisine sets a benchmark for the Japanese restaurant scene in Bahrain. bushido.com.bh
CHINESE CUISINE
La Mer
David’s Stir Fry Crazy
Perched on a jetty jutting out into the waters of the Arabian Gulf, La Mer instinctively invites you to eat on the deck and enjoy the gentle strains of the waves lapping beneath you as you enjoy a much-anticipated gastronomic treat. Or eat inside and bask in the dining room imbued with a refined serenity of warm tones hewn from nature. La Mer is definitely worth the drive to Zallaq. sofitel.com
Since opening his doors 7 years ago, David’s has become a firm favourite with both locals and visitors alike; serving the finest of traditional and contemporary Chinese cuisine, complemented some tasty culinary delights from across the Orient. stirfrycrazy.com
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ALL DAY CASUAL
Nomad Eatery
Asia de Cuba
Located at the Courtyard in Seef this home-grown stylish all-day destination brings its own class to Bahrain. The designer décor is perfectly matched by an eclectic menu that has something for everyone. The attention to detail, eclectic décor, and appealing menu make Nomad Eatery a must visit destination at any time of day. instagram.com/nomadeatery
Located at Gallery 21 in Bahrain’s famous Block 338, Asia de Cuba has been making waves ever since it opened. The internationally renowned Chino-Latino restaurant, lounge brings its own unique culinary twist; the innovative menu, created by Cuban-born Executive Chef Luis Pous, brings that perfect marriage of Asian and Latin flavours and techniques. asiadecuba.com
HEALTHY DINING
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RISING STAR
FAMILY RESTAURANT
Baker & Spice
Café Lilou
The local outpost of bakery and restaurant chain Baker and Spice is located in Al Aali Mall. The chic modern minimalism offers a clean and simple space where the food is the star attraction. In addition to its much-loved speciality artisan breads and pastries, the restaurant also serves its local, organic and homemade and wholesome classic and signature dishes to provide healthy and fresh options to its customers. www.bakerandspiceme.com
Always a favourite of visitors to Bahrain, Café Lilou conjures up the essence of an early twentieth century Parisian brasserie, with its opulent décor. Café Lilou offers something for the whole family. Visit Café Lilou at Adliya, Seef or Riffa Views. www.alghalia.com
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
ARTISAN FOOD
BEST BRUNCH
Maya La Chocolaterie
Bahrain Bay Kitchen
Luxury confectioner Maya La Chocolaterie has established itself as one of the regions leaders in the art of fine chocolates and sweet treats, skilfully crafted in to a cacophony of rich yet subtle flavours are the hallmark of this fine emporium. Enjoy lovingly created a designerselection of hand-crafted chocolates. www.maya-la-chocolaterie.com
Located in the Lower Lobby of the 68-storey tower this lively indoor-outdoor restaurant features an incredible Friday brunch; a special dining experience for the whole family. fourseasons.com
BEACH CHIC
Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay
BEST RAMADAN TENT
La Plage
Hotel Sofitel Bahrain
Located between the pool and the white sands of the beach at Bahrain’s iconic Ritz-Carlton, La Plage is the perfect spot for those seeking the vibrant al fresco dining, with stunning views of the Arabian Gulf. ritzcarlton.com
Undoubtedly one of the best Ramadan Tents in Bahrain, offering not only consistently great quality and service, but also a wide variety of mouth-watering dishes. An ideal way to break the fast for the whole family. sofitel.com
Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain
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BEST AFTERNOON TEA
The Orangery Tearoom & Pâtisserie
Alosra Supermarket
The charming tea-room and patisserie exudes a quintessentially Laura Ashley-esque Englishness. Comfortable sofas, inviting armchairs, neo-classical Nash style décor lead on to a terrace overlooking the serenity and charm of its secret garden. Open all day from breakfast until 10pm you are spoilt for choice. orangeryme.com
Alosra has built a well-deserved reputation for freshness, quality and customer service; by working closely with local communities and suppliers to provide a wide range of local sustainable produce. You will find the freshest locally grown vegetables, fish and dairy products alongside home-baked breads and pastries – and if you are too busy to visit the store then let Alosra visit you, delivering your order straight to your door. alosraonline.com
Palace Boutique Hotel
BEST BREAKFAST
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LOCAL PRODUCE CHAMPION
SPECIALIST RETAILER
Gallery Café
Maya La Chocolaterie
Open daily, from breakfast through to late night dining, Gallery Café offers a range of freshly prepared savoury and sweet treats from their in-house bakery complemented by signature coffees, available for both dine-in and takeaway. The main menu has something to tempt any palate; from Scottish smoked salmon to hearty steaks; and a simply delightful afternoon tea. gallerycafebahrain.com
For the true connoisseur of chocolate, luxury confectioner Maya La Chocolaterie has established itself as one of the regions leaders in the art of fine chocolates and sweet treats. Treat yourself to an indulgent chocolate fondue – as you dip bananas, strawberries, marshmallows, and mini cup-cakes into a veritable river of the thickest tastiest smooth chocolate you ever tasted. www.maya-la-chocolaterie.com
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
This spread, clockwise: Singapore Airlines Chinese cuisine; Singapore Airlines Business Class; Etihad Business Suite
Come fly with me OUR TOP 5 BUSINESS CLASS AIRLINES
We haven’t seen such high levels of comfort and service since the golden age of commercial aviation in the 1950’s & 60’s f you are planning to spend that extra dollar and travel Business Class your will probably want to know who offers the best Business Class service? Our well-travelled team has reviewed their favourite airlines, taking into consideration their experiences from booking and check-in to arrivals and baggage claim, and business lounge and on-board comfort to quality of service and amenities. Nowadays Business Class travel has become the cabin-of-choice for premium air travel, with many airlines moving away from the more expensive first-class cabins. Over the last decade we have seen dramatic improvements in business class offerings, harking back
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to the golden age of airline travel in the 1960’s. Today we are spoilt with lie-flat sleeper seats, state-of-the-art in-flight entertainment, WiFi, and gourmet menus devised by world-renowned chefs. Our chosen airlines are widely considered to offer the best allround business class service, but competition is fierce, and you’ll find that many airlines are upping their game to provide better luxury services and amenities too. So if you want to know who are the best business class airlines look no further than these airlines who made our Top 5; offering exceptional service, up-to-date aircraft, comfortable accommodation and fine food.
WORLD TRAVELLER
“If you are planning to spend that extra dollar and travel Business Class your will probably want to know who offers the best Business Class service?” ETIHAD AIRWAYS Etihad Airways luxury Business Studio suites with flatbed seats offers Arabian boutique chic that cossets you with sheer comfort. The seats are substantial and fully-recline to over 2 metres, with a choice of privacy or side-by-side options for a couple travelling together, but don’t be concerned if you want additional privacy - every seat has its own retractable screen; and a generous 47cm touch screen entertainment unit too. Another benefit of travelling Etihad Business Class is not only the fine cuisine, but also the ability to dine restaurant style, ordering from the menu when you feel hungry. To complete the luxury experience Etihad business class travel also offers complimentary limo service to and from the airport, use of their top-notch lounge, as well as luxury amenity kits, slippers and pyjamas, and the Lobby Lounge and bar on their Airbus 380, which comes complete with mobile and Wi-Fi service. A great way to fly for any business traveller. www.etihad.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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This spread, clockwise: Qantas Business Class seat; Cathay Pacific Business Cabin; Singapore Airlines Indian Cuisine; Virgin Australia Business Seat; Qantas Tail Fin; Qantas Dreamliner Business Cabin
CATHAY PACIFIC Cathay Pacific Business Class provides the very best of warm Asian hospitality, delivered with a discreet, personal touch, where flight attendants greet you by name, providing friendly and efficient service throughout your journey. The award-winning Business Class seat provides exceptional comfort, adapting to your personal preferences, with easy-to-use pre-set buttons for sitting or sleeping and additional controls to make smaller adjustments to ensure your comfort be you are sitting or taking advantage of the full flat bed. The Business Class menu uses locally sourced, sustainable ingredients that are in season, and also offers= lighter and healthy dining alternatives. As you would expect your Cathay Business Class seat is also your office in the sky, with privacy partitions, a generous sized table, power outlets, and adjustable lighting. And if you want to relax, enjoy the state-of-the-art in-flight entertainment system, with your own touchscreen TV, or freshen up with the Jurlique skincare products in the luxury amenity kit. Genuine Asian hospitality guaranteed to ease any journey. www.cathaypacific.com
VIRGIN AUSTRALIA Virgin Australia has never been afraid to think outside the box and always looks to be the best at whatever it turns it hand to. ‘The Business’, the airline’s new business class offering is an extraordinarily chic, relaxed and refined way to fly with Virgin Australia. Enjoy the environs of your own private suite or a drink at ‘The Bar’, as the dedicated Virgin Australia team ensure your journey is every bit as important as your destination. The new cabin layout on the 777 jets guarantees everyone has aisle access, the 54cm wide leather lay-flat seats stretch out to over 2 metres, and come with a turn-down service and mattress, luxurious pillows, duvet and Julie Grbac designed pyjamas when it is time to slumber. The table offers plenty of space to work, power & USB and a 45cm touch screen to enjoy the ample choice of in-flight entertainment. Indulge yourself with à la carte cuisine served on elegant crockery, paired with a fine grape and served on-demand to your suite, or if you would like to dine as soon as you’re in the air, you can with Express Dining. Along with priority check-in and boarding, limousine service, and exclusive lounge access ‘The Business’ offers the ultimate in luxury and entertainment for any business class traveller. www.virginaustralia.com 46
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WORLD TRAVELLER
“Our chosen airlines are widely considered to offer the best all-round business class service.” SINGAPORE AIRLINES
QANTAS
Singapore Airlines has long been the standard bearer for luxury airline travel, known for its flawless and sophisticated service, and amazing facilities; a long-time pioneer of exceptional travel. Business Class travel features their hand-crafted leather loungers that extend to 2 metres in laid-flat mode, and the requisite fine bed-linen too. There is plenty of room to work and relax, a 45cm flat screen with on-demand entertainment to keep you amused. In addition to the incredible array of fine food available on board you can even choose your meal up to 24 hours before you board, leaving you plenty of time to make your choice from the airline’s carefully curated selections of food and grape. But of course, the star of the show is Singapore Airlines multi-award-winning service; from fast-track services, lounge access, and outstanding staff to fine dining and serene comfort. Your airline of choice for fine cuisine, first-class service and Asian style. www.singaporeair.com
Australia’s flag carrier without doubt offers a superior business class service. The business class seats cocoon you perfectly, providing enough privacy from neighbouring travellers. Whether you opt to use the turn-down-service or just convert the seat yourself, you will be able to enjoy a comfortable 2 metre flat bed, which also includes massage functions, personal phone, USB & power outlets and a 30cm touch screen for the in-flight entertainment; its perhaps no wonder they have won awards for their design. If you are feeling peckish savour an 8-course tasting menu by Qantas Chef Neil Perry, which is served by silver service trained cabin staff. And of course, Qantas provide the best of amenities such as pyjamas and skincare lotions. And if you want to stretch your legs or enjoy the large 58cm screen try the onboard lounge. Certainly a relaxing way to make any journey. www.qantas.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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GOURMET TRAVELLER This spread, clockwise: Cathay Pacific in flight; The Pier Business Lounge - Relaxation Room; Business Seat Workspace
THERE’S NO BUSINESS, LIKE CATHAY BUSINESS
THE CATHAY PACIFIC EXPERIENCE We try the new business class service on Cathay Pacific, undeniably one of the world’s leading airlines usiness travel today is about much more than a dedicated check-in desk, airport lounge and a larger seat; seasoned traveller expect personalised service across every step of the journey. Now marking more than 40 years of serving the Middle East, Cathay Pacific provides a first-class service regardless of the cabin you fly and leads the way with its customer-first approach to innovation and service – its Business Class cabin and lounges offering the best in style and luxury. Flying with Cathay Pacific Business Class is definitely a refined experience, which is delivered with a personal touch. You are greeted by name and enjoy the signature Cathay touch throughout
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your journey; and once in your award-winning Business Class seat, having already enjoyed priority boarding, sit back and enjoy the typically warm Asian hospitality that is guaranteed to ease any journey. The ergonomically designed seats can be adjusted to your preferences in flight, with two pre-set options for sitting and sleeping; and individual controls to fine tune your comfort. You can opt for privacy with the touch of a button or slide your seat forward to speak with your neighbour. And when it’s time to sleep, take advantage of the full flat bed, complete with fluffy pillows and soft duvet to help you get a relaxing sleep, before you freshen up with the Jurlique skincare products from the luxury amenity kit.
WORLD TRAVELLER
“Cathay Pacific has long been renowned for first-class service regardless of the cabin you fly…and leads the way with its customer-first approach to innovation and service.”
“The Cobb is where Meryl Streep stood with Jeremy Irons in the poignant scene from The French Lieutenant’s Woman.”
Fine Dining in the air has always been one of Cathay Pacific’s signature offerings and the Business Class menus, featuring locally-sourced and sustainable in-season ingredients, show that the airline has enhanced its culinary touch again. There is even a selection of light and healthy dining alternatives, not to mention an exceptional selection of grape and beverages, accompanied with fine chocolates. As you would expect your Cathay Business Class seat is also your office in the sky, with generous working and storage space, power outlets and adjustable lighting. And if you want to relax, enjoy the state-of-the-art in-flight entertainment system via your
own touchscreen TV, where Cathay offers carefully curated monthly media highlights and the latest in movies, TV and music, whatever your flight. Flying into the airline’s home, Hong Kong International Airport, has the added advantage of Cathay Pacific’s premium lounges available for Business Class passengers across Terminal 1. The Deck is the airline’s newest addition, with an open-ceiling veranda offering an oasis of tranquillity and a magnificent vista across the apron and taxi-ways. Located close to gate 16 the new lounge has a chic ambience of understated luxury providing an undeniable sense of well-being. Dining is at the heart of The Deck, with the Main Lounge FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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WORLD TRAVELLER This spread, clockwise: Passenger sleeping; Flat-bed seat; The Deck; Hong Kong Harbour; The Pier Business Lounge Tea House; Cathay Pacific Business Class Cuisine; Cabin service
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“Fine Dining in the air has always been one of Cathay Pacific’s signature features, and the Business Class menus, featuring locally sourced, and sustainable in-season ingredients show that the airline has not lost its culinary touch.?” providing a range of self-service, freshly made international dishes. A not-to-be-missed experience is The Noodle Bar, an iconic favourite amongst seasoned Cathay Pacific travellers, offering a selection of local classics, including wonton noodles in a hearty broth, fish ball noodles and a variety of dim sum and buns. The lounge also has a relaxation room zone featuring bespoke Solo chairs, as well as eight shower suites, washroom facilities and a range of comfortable seating. Cathay Pacific’s other lounges at Hong Kong International include
The Bridge, The Pier Business and First Class lounges, The Wing Business and First Class lounges and The Arrival, which is conveniently located in the arrivals lounge between Terminal 1 and 2, where you will receive the perfect welcome to Hong Kong with a selection of light food and snacks, and shower suites to freshen up in before continuing on with your journey. Cathay Pacific flies to almost 200 destinations with probably one of the youngest fleet of aircraft operating today. www.cathaypacific.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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TRULY
God’sOwn COUNTRY
Rasa Gurukul: A dream come true 52
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WORLD TRAVELLER This spread: Kerala hillside; Rocky outcrop
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There is nowhere like Rasa Gurukul” I was told by a member of the Rasa family (close family of work colleagues, not relatives) who did not stop smiling from the moment we met at Cochin Airport arrivals until my departure a few days later. Sometimes people working for a hotel or resort use this sales patter to make their accommodation seem better than their competitors, so I didn’t really believe him, but how wrong I was! The drive to the Rasa Gurukul resort was my first real taste of India, and the roads were hectic, uneven, and people seemed to just walk into oncoming traffic without a care for their own safety, but this all added to the uniquely Keralan-ness of what I would experience. Behind the heavy wooden gates of the Rasa resort compound everything changed as soon as I entered. Gone were the constant car horn sounds, replaced by cows and bullocks mooing, the car fumes changed to fresh and fragrant air, and the landscape transitioned immediately from a series of tightly-packed ramshackle huts into wide open manicured lawns, traditional Keralan villas and bungalows, endless forests of sugar cane, rice paddies, countless fruit and vegetable plants, and the tallest coconut palm trees that I had ever seen. FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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This spread: Paddy field; Hindu Temple; Plantains; Rasa Gurukul resort
The pure waters of the Chalakudy River separated the resort from nearby villages hidden by palm trees at one end, locals tending to cows and totally organic crops at the other, and everything revolved around the kitchen, an impressive building at the heart of the resort with a traditional Hindu oil lamp at the entrance, a central pagodalike atrium in the centre with a mural of the founder’s mother on the back wall, two dining rooms, and an industrial kitchen seemingly large enough to feed the whole of Kerala. There are also a number of self-enclosed bungalows, and two large villas, all with views of the river and farms. I found the staff at Rasa to be one of the main highlights of my stay, they always tried to include me in the cooking, gathering of organic ingredients from the resort’s own farms and plantations, and teaching me new recipes for foods, such as rice and gram flour dhosas dipped in coconut chutney and idli steamed pancakes,
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“Top chefs from around the world are visiting the resort to learn the fine art of Keralan cookery from those who know it best, Keralans” which are now my stand-out favourite snacks. I was lucky enough to meet Das Sreedharan, the founder of Rasa Gurukul, who spoke to me for over an hour about a dream that he had one night that resulted in his creation of Kerala’s, if not India’s, first wholly organic resort that combines highlighting the pleasures of wholesome vegetarian foods with helping underprivileged locals to make a life for themselves and their families through a diploma training course in Keralan cookery. Das wanted to preserve a traditional Keralan village atmosphere that has largely disappeared, ensuring that none of the food produced at Rasa harmed the planet, and was tasty and healthy. This dream has come to fruition, and now top chefs from around the world are visiting the resort to learn the fine art of Keralan cookery from those who know it best, Keralans. So why visit Rasa if it is a village away from the main cities? Well, the resort is no more than an hour’s drive from some of India’s most historic attractions. The oldest synagogue, Paradesi, and oldest mosque, Cheraman Jumaa, are nearby, and it is thought that this is the only place in the world with a street sign that points to both a synagogue and a mosque. A historic Hindu temple, complete with curved walls designed to stop enemy elephant attacks, and the Dutch Mattancherry Palace built originally by the Portuguese and extended by the Dutch to thank local rulers for their support in the war against Portugal. So, guests at Rasa Gurukul have no reason to be bored, they can either explore India’s rich history, or while away FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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This spread, clockwise: Mill; Old Church; Cattle grazing; Bronzesmith; Lake on grounds.
“The drive to the Rasa Gurukul resort offers a real taste of India; the roads are hectic, uneven, and people seemed to just walk into oncoming traffic without a care for their own safety.” the hours learning about Keralan organic cookery and savouring tasty local foods.
MUNNAR: A NEW MEANING TO THE TERM “HIGH TEA” Munnar’s natural landscape is simply spectacular, there is no other word worthy of describing this hill town that developed around the booming tea industry established by the British in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Munnar town is nothing to write home about, but just minutes outside of the town, row after row of green tea bushes, painted on the landscape in neat lines that follow the natural curves of the 56
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land, and endless mist-shrouded hills and mountains make this one of Kerala’s worst kept secrets – yes, “worst” kept secrets! Munnar was a popular hill retreat for British officers and officials based in India throughout the British Raj, and it has kept its popularity since then. I tried hard to find somewhere in Munnar that didn’t offer views that would look more at home on a fine oil painting, but this was nigh on impossible. Literally anywhere along the various twisting and winding roads that originate from Munnar town centre boast views over rolling tree-lined hills dotted with quaint Keralan houses, and morning mists creating mythical images like nowhere else on the planet.
I was immensely grateful that Younis at Alhabib Travels had arranged a car and driver for me that was at my disposal throughout my time in Munnar, because although the views are unforgettable from everywhere, having access to a car allowed me to visit some hidden gems that are not on the well-trodden tourist trail. My personal driver took me to Mattupetty Dam, which seemed to be a popular local haunt, with Indians from across the southern states hiring pedal boats to explore the expansive green lake, surrounded by, yes you guessed it, tea bush-lined green hills. The bustling local market around the dam was also my first taste of haggling in India, I highly recommend it, even though the stallholder refused to budge on the measly 100 Rupees for a tub of homemade halwa. My driver, Dri, also took me to a spot overlooking a wild elephant reserve at the edge of the forest surrounding Munnar, to experience a traditional Keralan theatre performance, kathakali, and martial arts
show called kalaripayattu. Although I had absolutely no idea what was happening, other than people in intricate costumes dancing around a stage pulling faces, it was most certainly a uniquely local experience. By far the highlight of my time in Munnar was visiting the world’s highest organic tea plantation, Kolukkumalai, in the hills dividing Kerala and the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu. We had to hire a 4x4 to get to the plantation, as it is an understatement to say that the roads are unpaved, they are full of rocks, pot holes, and sheer drops thousands of metres down, still, the back-breaking journey there are back was more than rewarded by the inspirational views of hundreds of seemingly endless fields covered in row-after-row of identical green tea bushes. Before visiting Munnar I hadn’t heard of Kolukkumalai, but after visiting and meeting a jolly local man who was obviously high from
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KERALA
This spread, clockwise: Das Sreedharan; Rasa Gurukul entrance; pots drying; meditation; okra; selection of vegetables
KERALA BACKWATERS: A LOCAL WAY OF LIFE
the caffeine fumes after working in the former British tea factory for more than 45 years, singing Malayalam songs as loud as possible, I decided that it would become my mission to get more people to visit the area, and thus generate much-needed money for the dedicated tea farmers living at the top of the world. Of course, I can’t not mention the actual tea, which is an organic green tea that has a unique flavour that comes from a combination of altitude, tried-and-tested cultivation time, and the water used in the area for its brewing. It was a little dry in the mouth, slightly bitter, and fragrant, all of which explains why Kolukkumalai tea has remained highly-prized around the world for so long.
The Kerala backwaters is something that the state tourist board tries hard to market to foreign tourists, largely because of the unique way of life in Alleppey. Josemon Thyparambil and Rajesh N. Balan, the owners of South India by Car and Driver, took me on a unique river cruise through the tranquil backwaters on a traditional wood and bamboo boat. While the cruise itself was relaxing, totally alien to what I am used to, and an experience that will stay with me forever, it also offered an insight into a way of life in Kerala that made me long for a more relaxed pace in my own life. As our boat slowly sailed along the river, passing submerged rice paddy fields on artificial islands, and locals washing their clothes in the waters like their ancestors would have done over centuries, traditional Keralan houseboats passed by. These large wooden boats, usually single-level with unique curved bamboo roofs, have been home to Malayali families for generations, and what a way of life this is. Imagine it, sailing along rivers, wind blowing through your hair, living the simple life with those closest to you. Don’t you wish you were there? We stopped off at a local riverside restaurant which served food in the traditional Malayali style, a mound of rice in the centre of a large banana leaf, topped with a soup-like sambar, and with various dhals and chutneys dotted at the top of the leaf, each with their own specific place that has remained unchanged for centuries. And of course, it would not be India without scooping up the food and shovelling it into our mouths with our hands!
FORT KOCHI: MALAYALI HISTORY IN A MICROCOSM Jose also took me on a tour of Fort Kochi, the historic part of Kerala that was developed in part by Portuguese settlers in the 15th century, Arab Muslims, European Jews, various Christian FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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This spread, clockwise: room at resort; terrace, yoga instructor; Kerala hillside; countryside vista;
groups, and the British from the 19th century. Each neighbourhood in this part of Kochi (also known as Cochin) has distinguishable architecture and peoples that offer a glimpse of what life was once like there. In the aptly named Jew Town, one of India’s oldest surviving synagogues stands at the end of a discerning street, which is also home to spice shops, former warehouse buildings that have been developed into high-class restaurants and galleries, and the home of the last permanent Jewish resident in the city. The waterfront area of Fort Kochi, as Jose pointed out, is home to a well-preserved Portuguese fort, grand British colonial houses 60
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that are now owned by local families, and the famous Chinese fishing nets, which, as the name suggests, were introduced to the area by Chinese migrants centuries ago. It is a sight to behold watching the counterweights pulling the nets up out of the fish-rich waters of the Arabian Sea. The locals didn’t seem bothered that the nets often came out empty, they tried again and again. Fort Kochi tells the story of Kerala’s past, initially developing into a bustling trade route by Jewish and later Arab traders, then being fortified by Vasco da Gama and the Portuguese, who were pushed out by the Dutch, and then the region was further developed under the British. There really is nowhere quite like Fort Kochi.
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“Our boat slowly sailed along the river, passing submerged rice paddy fields on artificial islands, and locals washing their clothes in the waters like their ancestors would have done over the centuries”
Practicalities of travel in Kerala It can be difficult to travel around Kerala without the aid of experienced travel companies working in India, who are experienced with local rules and regulations, navigating the many narrow winding village roads across the state, and pointing out the hidden gems worth visiting. Asking an India-based travel agency to arrange hotel bookings and a car and driver who will stay with you in Munnar is the most convenient option for visitors both short on time and in search of the best attractions in the historic hill station resort. At night, the narrow and winding roads up to Munnar are almost impossible to self-drive, so this is when an experienced tour company becomes indispensable. Alhabib Travels arranged my stays at the Misty Mountain Resort in Munnar, stay at Abad Plaza in Kochi, and the car and driver who accompanied me throughout my visit to Munnar and took me for my early morning flight on the last day of the trip. Younis, from Alhabib, was always at the end of the phone and assisted with any problems that I encountered quickly and efficiently, making 62
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travel to Kerala as simple as possible. For more information: alhabibtravels.com; +91 997 1782785 Exploring the most famous part of Kochi, old Fort Kochi, is also done best when in the hands of the experts who have been doing it for years. South India by Car and Driver, which also has a division catering exclusively to the increasing number of cruise excursions under the name Shore Excursions India, are undoubtedly the best choice. Even the BBC commissioned the company’s experienced and charismatic founder, Josemon Thyparambil, to show British celebrities around old Kochi for the popular British reality series The Real Marigold Hotel – which is offered as a tour in its own right. More information is available at southindiabycaranddriver.com; or +91 484 2204211. Rooms at Rasa Gurukul start at $155 per night, with a hearty Keralan breakfast and tailored cookery lessons included. More information about the resort can be found at rasagurukul.com; booking@rasagurukul.com; or +91 984 6040468.
Words: Joe Worthington Images: Joe Worthington; Nomad Sahil
This page, clockwise: Atrium building; River boat; Chalakudy River view
Time FOR TEA
THE ART OF THE PERFECT BREW
Tetley Master Tea Blender Sebastian Michaelis took time to speak with Food and Travel when he visited Dubai recently iscovered in China, thousands of years ago, tea was revered as both drink and medicine in their culture. Now it is grown around the world, with each origin having its own unique characteristics, and each culture adopting its own traditions, on how and when to serve and drink it. England is famous for High Tea in china cups, as well as strong milky cups of builders’ brews, while Moroccans tend to favour a green tea with mint and sugar. Black tea is the drink of choice in the Middle East, served with sugar,
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Although I grew up drinking tea, like most people I never gave much thought as to where tea came from or how it was made, until twelve years ago. A recent university graduate, looking for inspiration for my next steps, I stumbled across an advertisement for a job at Tetley. They were looking for someone who held a university degree, was willing and able to travel, and was interested in tea. The role, professional tea taster and blender. Not a job that you often hear about, and a definite departure from the usual 9 to 5 office job.
“The second most consumed drink in the world, beaten only by water, tea is more than just a drink, and there are few places where you won’t find it on offer.” although sometimes cardamom or mint is preferred. The second most consumed drink in the world, beaten only by water, tea is more than just a drink in the Middle East, and there are few places where you won’t find it on offer. It’s what you welcome guests with when they enter your home, it’s what you offer when someone is upset, it plays a key role in any, and every celebration or occasion. People use it to take a break from a busy day at work, and most importantly it brings people together, connecting them through conversations held over a cup of tea. 64
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Tetley is 180 years old, and has a reputation in the industry for its taster training program. It takes five years to qualify, and involves over a year of travelling to tea gardens around the world, gaining knowledge along the way of how tea is grown, produced and everything about this amazing plant’s journey from tea garden to your kitchen. After a rigorous round of interviews, I began my intensive five-year stint as a trainee tea taster and found myself tasting thousands of teas a week, in order to build up my palate and be able to recognise the thousands of different flavours and
FOOD FOCUS Opposite page, left to right: Tea field; Sebastian Michaelis - Tetley; Tea pickers; Afternoon tea; Tea plantation; Tea tasting.
characteristics of each leaf. There are thousands of different teas produced across the world, each unique in their own way, with a variety of different tastes. Both black and green tea come from a specific species of plant called Camellia Sinensis. To manufacture the tea, you have to pluck the freshest leaves from the top of the bush, allow them to wither naturally for half a day, then cut or shape the leaf, before finally drying it out in an oven. While the process may sound simple, the slightest changes in the soil, weather, or production technique has an enormous impact on the end product. Even the same tea garden will produce vastly different tastes week after week due to the smallest changes in the amount of sunshine and rain. This is where my job as a tea taster comes in, it is up to my colleagues and I to create the perfect balance of flavours for our
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FOOD FOCUS TIME FOR TEA
blends. Each individual teabag or loose-leaf packet sold can contain up to twenty-five different varieties of tea leaf, and unless those combinations are blended in the exact right way, you can end up with very dull looking, flavourless brews. It can take up to four months for us to perfect a blend, and a huge amount of effort goes in to ensuring that the quality is consistent across the board. The way in which you choose to drink your tea is very personal, everyone enjoys a different strength, sweetness or milky-ness. Despite this, I am often asked how to create the perfect brew. The simple answer is that whichever way you choose to drink your tea, however you decide to brew your cup, is the perfect cup. Chances are you may not like the way that some of your friends, family, or even the way I drink tea. However, I can share a number of tips to ensure you get the most flavour from your leaf. Choosing the right tea is the most important step. Some cheaper teas use poorer quality or badly blended leaves, while a good
“To manufacture tea, you have to pluck the freshest leaves from the top of the bush, allow them to wither naturally for half a day, then cut the leaf, before drying it in an oven.” quality blends will not only taste ‘lively’, as tea tasters say, but will also look bright and ‘sparkly’ when you brew it. A natural product, tea, while essentially just dried leaves, is incredibly delicate and fragile, so must be handled with extreme care. To preserve the flavour of your tea, I always recommend placing the leaves in an airtight container, as strong-smelling products in the kitchen such as spices or washing detergent can easily spoil your tea’s flavour if stored too close to one another. When it comes to brewing, I always recommend using freshly drawn water, as opposed to water that has been in the kettle since your last cup. This is because when water is re-boiled it 66
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experiences chemical changes that can alter the taste of your tea, so fresh water is always best. You should also always use boiling water for black tea. The hotter the better so make sure to pour as soon as your kettle reaches boiling point. There is also the question of whether one should brew in a pot or just pout straight into your cup, and while the cup may seem more convenient, brewing in a pot is ideal for allowing your tea to move around. However, it’s very important that you heat your pot before adding the tea and water. If you pour boiling water into a cold pot, it will drop in temperature and you won’t get the optimal brew you desire.
“To preserve the flavour of your tea, place the leaves in an airtight container, as strong-smelling products in the kitchen such as spices or washing detergent can easily spoil the flavour.”
Time is also a factor. Give your tea the time to brew properly. You may prefer it weaker or stronger, but I recommend you adjust the quantity of leaf you add rather than the brewing time. One heaped spoon of loose tea is about right per person, but brewing should only take between three to five minutes. Just enough time for you to walk from the kitchen to your desk, or your living room, and get settled in. The same rules are also applied when it comes to green tea, except avoid using boiling water and aim for roughly 80 degrees centigrade or so. This is because boiling water will affect the taste of the tea, making green tea taste very bitter and astringent. I’d advise letting your kettle cool off for one to two minutes after boiling, which will naturally bring the temperature down. Finally, the most important thing to remember is to make sure you ask your guests how they like to take their tea. It’s easy to forget how personal everyone’s tastes are, and nobody enjoys a ‘bad’ cup. For more information on Tetley Tea visit www.tetleyarbia.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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This spread, left-to-right: Roman baths by torchlight; The Pump Room
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B AT H T I M E Discover slices of culture and flavour in this picturesque town – you just need to know where to go. Let Food and Travel’s Thomas Williams be your guide.
hether you are arriving into Bath by car or by train, you are instantly struck with the feeling that you are stepping into the past. The world of Jane Austen, arguably the city’s most famous ex-resident, is all around you, with the orange-tinted greys of the stonework catching the eye of any new visitor. As Bath is based around a relatively small centre, the sheer amount of things to do and experience can be a little overwhelming, contained as they are all in a very easily traversable area. As with most cities, we would recommend not attempting to do too much; less is always more; and resisting the urge to cram as much in as possible is a great idea. Bath is the sort of city that is best observed slowly and calmly, allowing time to truly pay attention to the finer things it has to offer. With that in mind, here is our guide for a short break in the historical city of Bath.
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DAY ONE EVENING
Spending the first evening simply getting orientated can be a joy in itself. The natural place to start is around the railway station, taking the opportunity to stroll up through the city centre towards Milsom Street. There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way to do this; the joy is in just ambling through the largely pedestrianised streets, stopping to look at whatever grabs your fancy. Wandering into side alleys is a great idea, and getting lost really isn’t a problem, as everything naturally flows towards Milsom Street. As Bath is best explored on foot, it’s a fantastic first introduction. Due to the proximity of Bath’s Royal Crescent and The
Circus (no1royalcrescent.org.uk), it may be that seeing them for the first time is appealing, but both are better explored and appreciated more fully, especially if the evening is drawing dark. Instead, a trip to The Circus Restaurant might be in order, located in a beautiful Georgian house, between both locations. Here the food is English, locally sourced and always fresh, and the family-run establishment provides the sort of welcoming and friendly environment much needed on a first visit to a city. The restaurant is small however, and booking is advised if possible. Alternatively, Clayton’s Kitchen on nearby George Street is also a fantastic choice. Also found in a historic Georgian house, it offers an informal experience, with seasonal meals based around traditional British favourites. If a drink to round the evening off is required, the attractive and inviting environs of Corkage on Walcot St are a tenminute walk away. This wine bar offers a vast array of quality wines to suit all tastes, as well as small plates, should they be needed. Its small size and popularity can mean things get a little busy, especially on weekend evenings, but tables can be reserved.
DAY TWO MORNING
An absolutely essential part of any visit to Bath should be to visit the ancient Roman Baths. The immense popularity of the unmissable attraction means that getting in as near to the 9 am opening as possible is the best chance of avoiding the crowds. An audio-guide leads you around the natural hot springs that Bath was founded on, and the Roman pavements and bathing sites leave you with a true idea of what past life contained. Seeing it fully takes around two hours, after which the attached Pump Room Restaurant is worth a visit, to try a glass of the drinkable hot-spa water, famed for its health-giving properties. Before lunch, a walk up to see the Royal Crescent is a great way to work up an appetite. The row of 30 terraced houses that make up the Crescent were built between 1767 and 1774, designed by the architect John Wood, and are Grade 1 listed. A walk down the length of the houses will reveal the many blue plaques that have put in place to commemorate the past notable residents. No 1 Royal Crescent is now a museum that is well worth a visit. The experience is best completed by a walk back through the park, along Royal Avenue, where the full imposing power of the Crescent can be truly appreciated. The Circus, which lies a very short distance away is also worth seeing. Forming a circle, the selection of townhouses FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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This spread, clockwise: Bath Abbey at night; Pulteney Bridge; Holburne Museum; Scallops from Clayton’s Kitchen; Suite at the Royal Crescent Hotel
“There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way to do this; the joy is in just ambling through the largely pedestrianised streets, stopping to look at whatever grabs your fancy.” date back to the same period as the Royal Crescent, is also Grade 1 listed, and lists the painter Thomas Gainsborough as it’s most famous past resident. Lunch can be taken at the nearby Café Lucca on Bartlett Street, where an Italian feel is present, but the experience remains very much traditional and in keeping with the overall feel of Bath. A selection of light food is offered, with salads, bruschetta, quiches and terrines all being a big part of the menu.
AFTERNOON The Holburne Museum (www.holburne.org), on Great Pulteney Street, could possibly lay claim to being the most attractive building used for such a purpose in England. Now Grade 1 listed, it was originally designed as a hotel, but now holds an impressive array of artwork. Gainsborough features heavily, as well as many Renaissance treasures. The former ballroom is set out as it would be for a banquet. The founder of the museum, Sir William Holburne, houses his collection here, and it is possible to get a real sense of the history of Bath via the many paintings and artefacts from the city’s past. The ground floor café is bright, with large glass windows offering lovely views of the gardens, and is a great place to get an afternoon tea, should it be required. Depending on the amount of time taken up by the Holburne Museum, and whether the subject is of interest, a trip to the Museum of Bath Architecture can be fitted in. Here visitors are able to explore how the city embraced classical design, and how many of its most famous buildings came into being.
EVENING The Bath Priory Restaurant, part of the Bath Priory Hotel on Weston Road, gives the opportunity to experience 3 AA Rosette quality whilst looking out across the remarkable gardens the hotel prides itself on. Much of the produce used is grown here, with a real focus placed on French dishes, given a local and seasonal flavour, making it a perfect place for an early evening meal. Having a look at the schedule of the Bath Theatre Royal (www.theatreroyal.org.uk) in advance and booking into a performance there is the perfect way to follow things up. The building itself is superb, refurbished in 2010 but retaining its Georgian origins, it’s host to an incredible varied selection of performances. Theatre productions make up much of its schedule, with ballet and music also featuring highly. Many visitors to the city will plan their entire trip around a performance at the Theatre Royal, a policy it is difficult to argue with given its reputation. Following the performance, the nearby Vino Vino offers a chance for a post-show drink. A wine cocktail bar, with a 70
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covered terrace that features heaters in colder weather, the selection of wines and drinks on offer is seriously impressive. Bar staff will also make up new and interesting cocktails should you wish, and, if you still have any appetite left after dinner, trying some of their locally sourced cheeses is well recommended.
DAY THREE MORNING
Start off the day with a visit to the Bath Assembly Rooms. Fully restored after taking damage in the Second World War, these are Grade 1 listed, and were used for high society events such as balls and concerts. With Jane Austen and Charles Dickens among those who attended, it’s a powerful and informative step back into the past. The lower floors are home to the Fashion Museum, which is also well worth a visit. A short walk away, and near to the Roman Baths (www. romanbaths.co.uk), is Bath Abbey, a former Benedictine monastery. Its impressive exterior provides a wealth of detail to look at and admire, with many special features and details for the more eagle-eyed to discover. Still in active use, it is possible to look around the interior, or take the tower tour, which provides a highly recommended and informative insight into how the Abbey runs. The view from the tower justifies the tour in itself, giving perhaps the best view across Bath available. For lunch, Hunter & Sons (hunter-sons.co.uk) in Milsom Place, located just off Milson Street offers up the sort of
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The Royal Crescent
“A walk up to see the Royal Crescent is a great way to work up an appetite” light, friendly and casual atmosphere needed to round off a trip to Bath. The food is high quality, with a definite emphasis on local and traditional, but make sure you take the opportunity to sample some of their craft beer, which they take seriously, and the staff are very knowledgeable about.
AFTERNOON The best way to end a trip is via a walk across Pulteney Bridge, one of only four bridges in the world to have shops across both of its sides. The views the bridge provides
across the River Avon are marvellous, and taking a bit of time to wander around the surrounding streets makes for a perfect goodbye to the city. If time permits, The Victoria Art Gallery (www.victoriagal. org.uk) is nearby, and houses an impressive array of works. Gainsborough inevitably features heavily, but by no means dominates. Travelling exhibitions often visit, which are usually of a very high standard and always worthy of viewing. As the Gallery is large but not huge, it doesn’t feel overwhelming, and its location makes it very convenient for brief visits, as well as longer ones.
Where to stay
ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL, ROYAL CRESCENT Forming part of the Royal Crescent, this hotel’s location couldn’t be more iconic. Arguably the best location in the whole of the Bath, steeped in history and instantly recognisable, the Royal Crescent Hotel also provides service that is amongst the best in the country. Oil paintings, large staircases and chandeliers bring classicism, while saunas, steam rooms, fitness areas and a spa provide the modernity. A major advantage if travelling to Bath by car is the hotel’s free valet parking, removing something that visitors to the city frequently find difficult. www.royalcrescent.co.uk THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA, BEAU STREET One of Bath’s most famous past resident lends his name to this ideally located
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5 star hotel, whose unique attraction is its access to natural thermal waters. Found in the heart of the city, it’s a perfect embodiment of what Bath does well; mixing the traditional and the modern, with the utmost taste. The Spa Village has all the features the name suggests, and a replica Roman mosaic acts as a reminder that people may have been receiving similar treatments so long ago, while the glass ceiling creates a wonderfully light appearance and touch. www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk SPECIALIST TIMES TO VISIT A city of such culture as Bath naturally has a packed schedule of festivals and events taking place across the year that visitors may like to tailor their stay around. The Bath Festival is perhaps the biggest, and has been running for over 70 years. visitbath.co.uk Taking place over 17 days in May the festival brings in a variety of national and international talent to venues and locations across the city for a very varied calendar of events. The Bath Carnival takes place over one day, usually at the end of July, and a ten-day Jane Austin Festival in September always proves a popular draw. There is also a section of very attractive and well populated Christmas markets that set up around the Abbey area, and regularly feature over 200 stalls, catering to all tastes. bathfestivals.org.uk
Images: Food & Travel; iStock; Bath Tourism
THE BATH PRIORY, WESTON ROAD Peaceful, quiet and exceptionally refined, The Bath Priory is located close to Royal Victoria Park, and within very easy walking distance of the City Centre. A country house style dominates throughout, and the beautiful gardens are perfectly in keeping with the Georgian feel. A spa and swimming pool bring the hotel into the modern-era, but attentive staff and classical décor provide an overall feeling of nostalgic luxury. Its restaurant, as detailed above, is a real bonus, and is open to non-residents. www.thebathpriory.co.uk
FOOD FOCUS
THE JOB
Italian Street food in Italy can be traced back to Pompeii, where hawkers were immortalised in dust after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. These recipes celebrate a tradition as old as the land itself RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS FROM ITALIAN STREET FOOD BY PAOLA BACCHIA PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAOLA PACCHIA AND IAN SUMMERS (SMITH STREET BOOKS)
PIZZETTE CON GORGONZOLA E FUNGHI
FOOD FOCUS
EARTHY MUSHROOMS AND PIQUANT BLUE CHEESE ARE IDEAL TOPPINGS FOR THESE BITE-SIZED PIZZAS, WHICH ARE SERVED IN MOST BARS. RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
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POLPETTINE DI MELANZANE
DEEP-FRIED BALLS OF AUBERGINE, SALTY PARMESAN AND CRISPY BREADCRUMBS. WHAT MORE COULD YOU WANT FROM A SPUNTINO (SNACK)? RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
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FOOD FOCUS
CANNOLI AL CACAO CON RICOTTA THINK SICILY AND THINK OF DELICATE PASTRY TUBES FILLED TO THE BRIM WITH SWEET RICOTTA. THIS CHOCOLATE VERSION IS TOPPED WITH CRUSHED PISTACHIOS.
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FOOD FOCUS
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
TORCINELLI
TRADITIONALLY EATEN AROUND EASTER, THESE POTATO FRITTERS WITH ANISEED, SUGAR AND CINNAMON ARE SURPRISINGLY LIGHT. RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
FOOD FOCUS
PANINO CON VITELLO
ROASTED ROLLED LOIN OF VEAL LACED WITH GARLIC, ROSEMARY AND FENNEL THEN SIMPLY SERVED IN BREAD ROLLS WITH PIECES OF CRACKLING AND A SPRINKLING OF SEA SALT.
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WALKING ON
SUNSHINE Hiking through the Sunshine Coast’s verdant hinterland leads to lichen-flecked rainforests, rock pools and retreats
s morning dew rises, the forest awakes. An eastern whipbird casts his whip-crack from the foliage until the female replies. Spears of sunlight spotlight the twigs that snap underfoot as we follow the snaking path. Led by Steve Grainger, owner and guide of Tropical Treks, we’re covering a section of the 58km-long Sunshine Coast Hinterland Great Walk that winds through the Blackall Range. Today we’ll cover around 12km on this rainforest walk, in Queensland’s glorious Sunshine Coast Hinterland. Kondalilla National Park is a living, breathing slideshow of Australia’s subtropical rainforest inhabitants. We delight at the tall dome-shaped bunya pine, sacred to the Gubbi Gubbi Aboriginal people. Fruiting only every three years, its football-sized nut was once the epicentre of the
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celebratory Bunya Nut Feast. This triennial culinary and cultural festival lasted many months when hundreds of members from various tribes gathered to unite and honour the prized nut, which would be roasted, ground down to make bread, or used as a spread. We see a gorgeous red bloodwood tree, sporting sap that sits on its bark in sticky beads. Twisting, peeling blackbutts then join the path. Blackbutt eucalypts were used for railway sleepers, and constructed some of Brisbane’s heritage buildings. We admire a mighty 300-yearold specimen that escaped the saw. Trained through many years of exploring the Australian bush, Steve has a hawk’s eye. He then tracks the flight of a golden whistler bird. And above a climbing pandanus, a fan-tailed cuckoo voices its
WORLD TRAVELLER
“Kondalilla National Park is a living, breathingslideshow of Australia’s subtropical rainforest inhabitants”
This spread, clockwise: Purple pea bush lights up the trail; The rock pool at the head of Kondalilla Falls; A beautiful grass tree, Black-butt soars; Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat pavilion.
melancholic call. “This a bird’s nest fern,” he says. “Its crimped fronds harbour an inner cluster of unfurled fronds, which give the plant its name.” Amazingly, it’s growing directly from a rock. Nearby, a young staghorn fern clasps to a trunk. Reaching Narrows Creek, we see the wait-a-while vine, named so due to its hooked barbs. Steve demonstrates its stubborn clasp on his shirtsleeve. Aboriginal fishermen used this spiky vine to ensnare unsuspecting catch. A two metre-high termite mound captures our attention. Resembling upside-down terracotta pots, they house ants by the million, to include the queen ant’s residence, ant nurseries and fungi zones. This one is around 100 years old, and has been created by ants that feed on grass trees. Mixing mud with their saliva and excrement, they construct these high-rise homes, making them waterproof and FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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WORLD TRAVELLER WALKING ON SUNSHINE
“Creeping onto the path are the buttress roots of a giant fig tree, contrasted by a dainty candle vine climbing a trunk—its leaf resembling a flame.”
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This spread, clockwise: The view from Peregrine Lookout; Obi Obi Creek at Flat Rock; Shadows in the forest; Mapleton Falls Lookout; Billabong connected to Obi Obi Creek; Breakfast hamper at Narrows Falls
fireproof: quite the ingenious engineering feat. The trail soon dresses up in grass trees, blue quandong trees and a dash of tiny lilac flowers from the purple pea bush. Creeping onto the path are the buttress roots of a giant fig tree, contrasted by a dainty candle vine climbing a trunk—its leaf resembling a flame. “Have a look at this,” says Steve, crouching. “It’s the home of a trapdoor spider.” Steve uses a tool to flip open the trapdoor, completely camouflaged in the earth. “The spider cleverly constructs near-microscopic trip lines. When an insect disturbs them, out strikes the spider, capturing its prey.” At the halfway mark, we reach Flat Rock bordering Obi Obi Creek, and unbox our gourmet picnic. I adore Maleny Cheese’s ‘Chilli Con
Cheddar’ (sweet chilli and pepper-blended cheese). The creek dissects two ecotones. Behind us is subtropical rainforest, and over the water is (drier) wet sclerophyll forest. The forest has many faces. Back on our feet, we pass an ancient hoop pine (a close relative of the bunya pine). Incredibly, it takes 200 years for the female hoop pine to produce cones. We climb an escarpment on the Kondalilla Falls circuit. An attractive stand of grass trees, sporting tall nectar-rich flower spikes, becomes nature’s fence. We’re soon rewarded with a tranquil rock pool, fed by Skene Creek. From it, the falls plummet 90 metres into the valley. ‘Kondalilla’ is, after all, Aboriginal for ‘rushing waters’. At nearby Mapleton Falls National Park, we join the short Wompoo circuit. Featuring open eucalypt and riparian rainforest, both sides of the boardwalk are alive and kicking with all manner of creatures. We hear a wompoo fruit dove voice its deep call. This bright green, yellow and purple rainforest-dwelling (pigeon-like) bird feeds on vine fruits in the rainforest canopy. Reaching Mapleton Falls lookout, we breathe in the Obi Obi Valley and Mary River Valley beyond. Mapleton Falls (dry today) drops 120 metres down basalt rock into Pencil Creek below. Above is a peregrine falcon nesting site, but we don’t see the elusive predator today. We do however spot a white-browed scrub wren. Also sharing this forest is the attractive carpet python, as well as the venomous red-bellied black snake (which, fortunately, remains covert today). The walk becomes most scenic, filled with dense piccabeen palm colonies. From this palm, indigenous locals weaved baskets and bowls and constructed roofing, with the wait-a-while vine forming the framework. Now in the wet sclerophyll forest of the Obi Obi Valley, we see a tangled strangler fig, choking its host tree, near to where some fine FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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WORLD TRAVELLER WALKING ON SUNSHINE
This page, clockwise: Tree canopy; Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat Lounge; and bedroom.
“Back on our feet, we pass an ancient hoop pine; incredibly, it takes 200 years for the female hoop pine to produce cones.”
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Travel Information GETTING THERE Emirates flies daily between Dubai and the Sunshine Coast (Maroochydore Airport) via Melbourne: www.emirates.com LUXE TREKKING PACKAGE The Luxe Trekking guided walk package for two comes with an all-inclusive two-night stay at multi award-winning Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat. Also included is dinner at a restaurant in nearby Montville (transfers also included). Price: $1,235 per couple: www.narrowsescape.com.au VISAS Travellers to Australia require a Visitor Visa, available online from: www.border.gov.au RESOURCES www.visitsunshinecoast.com
I could enjoy a barbeque hamper on my veranda, but opt instead for dinner delivered to my room—and this is no ordinary room service. At 6pm, the knock at my door is by the retreat’s owner, carrying an aromatic basket of home-cooked Mediterranean chicken marinated in tomatoes, onions, capsicums, and olives. It’s accompanied by rice, a fresh salad and garlic bread, with a cheesecake for dessert. I turn down the lights and turn on the taps, and pour essential oil-infused bath gel into the spa bath. Reclining into the bubbles, my aching legs sigh with relief. I lay back listening to the cacophonous chorus of the forest’s nocturnal residents.
Words & Images: Marie Barbieri
examples of elkhorn ferns grow. Unlike the large broadleaved staghorn fern, elkhorns are spindly and hang downwards. We see juvenile grass trees, a fine specimen of a brush box, blackwood acacias, and the hand-like five-leaf water vine that climbs on forked tendrils. And all around, lighting up like an artist’s palette, mosses and lichens paint the tree barks in greens, whites and oranges, while shadows play puppet theatre on sunlit barks. In a clearing, a flooded gum sits peeling, while another, 300-500 years old, rises to the sun. Birds, possums, gliders and glossy black cockatoos take refuge in its shady hollows. “Look down, everyone,” says Steve. “Spot the funnel-web spider holes in the leaf litter? And over there is a golden orb weaver—hanging between the two trees.” This is not the place for arachnophobes. As this creature-filled journey nears its completion, I prepare to become a creature myself (with added creature comforts). Just outside the village of Montville, I enter the grounds of Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat. On the banks of a trickling creek steeped in privacy and peace are six luxury pavilions constructed in local timbers. Climbing the steps of my villa, I spot through its stilts a brush turkey sweeping the foliage into a mound. He’s preparing for the arrival of a female! Opening my door, an aroma of freshly cut flowers and a subtly lit living room welcomes me in. A natural log fireplace stands to one side, while a spa bath beckons from the other. In the kitchen, a hamper sits filled with gourmet breakfast items, with a note promising freshly baked croissants to arrive, come morning. Upon the bed is a bag of chocolate truffles, with a welcome card, printed with my name. It’s the personal touches…
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Tried
&
NOURISH DUBAI f you are struggling to find delicious yet healthy food, then visit Nourish! Located at the Located at Dar Al Wasl mall in Jumeirah, Nourish is more than just a restaurant; it’s a lifestyle movement, specialty coffee and juice bar; a holistic ‘clean eating concept’, where natural food tastes really good, headed by South African Chef Julie Watson. Priding itself on being transparent, hands on, educated and most of all passionate about what they serve, Nourish is a unique dining concept that has been crafted to attract people looking for affordable healthy food, offered in chic surroundings. What makes this ‘homeaway- from-home’ so unique, is the space that features both a marketplace and a restaurant. You can enjoy food either inside the sleek and stylish dining space; or dine alfresco on the terrace whilst enjoying one of the many tasty healthy dishes. Nourish is
I
also perfect if you are looking to work remotely - with lots of natural light and power points by every table, Nourish has created a seamless workspace. All the food is freshly prepared from scratch with ingredients sourced locally where possible; from fermenting mustards, tabasco and ketchup, to culturing vegetables, kneading unbleached, stone ground bread, and so much more; Nourish doesn’t do short cuts, it doesn’t do processed; just real! Nourish is also big on coffee. Serving high-quality single origin specialty coffees and cold brew, the team work alongside farmers who maintain sustainable practices, building on generations of experience, and responding to new and ethical methods. So think healthy, eat well and ‘Nourish’ yourself! nourishme.ae
COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS APPS HOTELS FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
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Eat
Where to
Tried&Tasted EAT
This month, we eat like a local in Milan, go French in London’s Smithfield, indulge ourselves at Asia’s top eatery and dine alfresco Oriental style in Abu Dhabi TIMELESS CLASSIC
Club Gascon Smithfield London he superlative foie gras still features, but much else is new and improved at this bastion of Gallic flair Some restaurants earn the epithet ‘timeless’ because they refuse to change. Others achieve longevity by moving with the times. Until recently Club Gascon fell into the former camp. A menu in thrall to foie gras and interiors that had barely changed since the first tablecloth was unfurled in 1998 assured its status as a stalwart, albeit not one necessarily at the top of your ‘must-visit’ list. How times change. A recent refurbishment has transformed it into everything you’d expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant on the edge of The City, complete with ostentatious gilt frosting and banquettes covered in teal velvet. The new menu is organised into three sections that reflect chef Pascal Aussignac’s thoughts on the past, present and future of dining. It’s safe to say that the future is looking bright for vegetarians and non-dairy eaters. The wine list has also shrunk and – traditionalists look away now – actually includes cocktails. For a sophisticated taste of south-west France try the Gascon signature pour, which features armagnac, cognac and champagne sweetened with a sugar cube.
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What hasn’t changed is the miniature surprises which flow out of the kitchen on a stream of effortless brilliance at the start of the meal. No fewer than seven amuse bouches amaze with their taste, texture and imaginative presentation. Smoky pork crackling arrives swaddled in a haze of tomato mousse bolstered with comforting bean purée, while kale crisps, as arid as the earth on a scorching summer’s day, are expertly balanced by sweetcorn consommé sipped from a sea urchin shell. The only misfire is prune and cream spritzed with Armagnac, which falls on the wrong side of contrived, in our opinion. After this prelude, the thought of three courses may seem a little intimidating, but each plate is so carefully curated, with every ingredient earning its place, that you’ll find yourself eating them with gusto. The highlight is foie gras with pine mushrooms, served with saline razor clam and a glass of Rancio Sec from Domaine des Schistes, a fortified wine rarely seen outside of France. Equally good is the beef fillet. Served rare in flagrant disregard of our request for medium, when it arrives, blushing, doused in dashi and scattered with hibiscus, we acknowledge that chef knows best. +44 20 7600 6144, www.clubgascon.com
Eat
Tried & Tasted
G lobal Gourmet
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone Milan ITALY
Sure, talking about Italy’s carb-driven delights is a conversation that’s as old as time. But, rest assured, when it comes to Milan’s Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone, it’s a discussion of great importance. A family-run institution since 1957, the menu here is a veritable roll call of Italy’s finest cuisine. An orange tree-laden terrace and elegant interior featuring stone walls, marble statues and dark wood gives way to a lively open kitchen. Carefully sourced bresaola and creamy burrata
are as flavourful an antipasti as you’ll find. For primi, a heady Milanese risotto with just that little bit of bite and a simple, rich home-made tortelloni al pomodoro may well have you considering moving here permanently. Veal cutlet is an essential main and tiramisu is our pick for pudding, though a strong espresso will do just as nicely. Don’t let the proximity (a ten-minute walk) to the tourist-strewn Duomo put you off: Il Salumaio is tucked away in a historic courtyard off a backstreet flanked by chic boutiques. This is a local hangout, make no mistake. + 39 02 7600 1123, ilsalumaiodimontenapoleone.it
Gaggan BANGKOK, THAILAND
Hakkasan Abu Dhabi
For the fourth year running, Gaggan has won the coveted number one spot at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2018 as ‘Best Restaurant in Asia’ and the ‘Best Restaurant in Thailand’. As culinary CVs go, Gaggan Anand’s could get no better. He was the first Indian chef to undertake an internship with Ferran Adrià’s research team at El Bulli, before working at some of the very best Indian restaurants in the world. From there he chose to open the world’s finest Indian in Bangkok. The dishes and their respective names could be fresh out of Willy Wonka’s factory: Chocolate Eyeball (poppadum with fresh herbs, garam masala and pomegranate), Liquid Salad (cucumber juice jelly with beetroot and carrot purée) and Mom’s Love (carrot porridge with saffron and silver leaf) are some of the more outre. But while they sound outrageous, the flavour profiles are sound. Quite clearly a student of the great Adrià and the only chef practising his principles to such an extent with Indian food anywhere in the world. eatatgaggan.com
Hakkasan Abu Dhabi has launched the new Hakkasan Terrace, with views across the picturesque gardens of the Emirates Palace and the city skyline. The terrace boasts a stylish bar area complete with bespoke cocktail menu and laidback cabanas. Following the extension, the Abu Dhabi restaurant is now the biggest Hakkasan outpost in the world. Open daily from 6pm until 2am, and brunch on Fridays from 12pm, Hakkasan Terrace not only makes a perfect weekend spot, but an ideal place to hit once the last brunch calls have been made. To complement the drinks, Hakkasan Abu Dhabi Head Chef Lee Kok Hua has designed a special small plates menu. Ideal for sharing, dishes include Hakkasan signature Peking duck, Hakka steamed and fried dim sum platters, soft shell crab salad with fresh mango, Jasmine tea smoked Wagyu beef ribs and Black sesame Cantonese bun. www. hakkasan.com
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Places to
Stay
This month, we enjoy fifty shades of blue in the Maldives, bird watch on Sri Lanka’s south coast, salute the neighbours on London’s South Bank, and enjoy palatial splendour in Abu Dhabi
Baros MALDIVES Spend a week at Baros and you’ll find that clichés can be a very good thing. Palm trees sway in the wind, white beaches fringe the shoreline and aquamarine waters stretch into the blue sky. It’s blindingly beautiful. You’ll arrive at the resort by speedboat – a 20-minute crossing from the Maldives’ main island, Malé. Once a small coconut plantation, the interior is lush and green with shrubs, trees and flora. Today, Baros is home to both overwater and beach villas and a spectacular living house reef. While on other islands you’d need to take a boat to get friendly with fish, here you can quickly swim the 15m out from shore. Float above the coral with complimentary snorkelling gear and watch schools of exotic fish dart past.
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If you’re lucky, you might spy a turtle or a blacktip reef shark lurking in the shadows. Back on land you can explore the entire island on foot in less than an hour, before chilling in a hammock in the shade. Dining options bump the romantic vibes up a notch: feast on tuna tartare laced with truffles on the beach by candlelight or watch the sun set at The Lighthouse restaurant, perched over the ocean. A delicate lobster bisque is rich and smooth, while Wagyu beef flamed tableside is quite the show. As for bedding down, beach villas are huge and come with outdoor showers, but the overwater option is still the best. Some have private infinity pools, and all have steps leading straight into the ocean, meaning you’ll be lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves crashing beneath. Doubles from $735. baros.comw
Sleep
Tried & Tasted
MARRIOTT COUNTY HALL LONDON A word of warning for guests staying in one of Marriott Hotel County Hall’sfabulous riverside suites: bear in mind that directly outside your window, amere stone’s throw away from your terrace, towers the CocaCola London Eye – complete with podfuls of tourists, many of them waving and taking photographs. This is, perhaps, not a room in which to drip dry. Tourists notwithstanding, that view alone is worth checking in for. With the illuminated wheel to the right and the iconic Houses of Parliament to the left, souvenir-stand postcards of the capital pale in comparison.
Sympathetically converted from the old Greater London Council building, the hotel is centrally located – just moments away from Westminster Bridge and the South Bank, within walking distance of a multitude of attractions – and boasts crisp, contemporary styling punctuated by period detailing throughout. Rooms feature deluxe bedding and marble bathrooms, and there’s an indoor pool and gym, where guests have complimentary access to fitness classes. There’s also in-house destination dining, in the form of Gillray’s Steakhouse & Bar and, should you wish to don a dressing gown and enjoy a night in, 24-hour room service, too. Doubles from $410. marriott.com
ANANTARA PEACE HAVEN TANGALLE SRI LANKA
THE RITZ-CARLTON ABU DHABI Found just a few minutes from downtown Abu Dhabi, The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi, Grand Canal is one of the most opulent hotels in Abu Dhabi; inspired by the Italian renaissance the palatial property still hints at its Arabian heritage. Lush verdant manicured gardens and babbling fountains greet you upon arrival. In the morning, the sun shimmers off Al Maqta Creek, while the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is lit beautifully as the sun serenely sets each evening. The dining options at the hotel take you on a culinary voyage around the globe; with each of the hotel’s eight restaurants offering a distinct dining experience. Steaks and renowned wineries are highlighted at The Forge; traditional Middle Eastern cuisine is served with live performances at Mijana; the energy and variety of Southeast Asian culinary culture is brought to life at Li Jiang and an indulgent Friday brunch and view of the gardens are what draw many to Giornotte. Take advantage of the Staycation Friday Brunch and Stay; book an overnight stay together with two classic Friday brunch packages and enjoy complimentary house beverages. Prices start at $475 per room per night, and include overnight accommodation, two Friday brunch packages with house beverages, early check-in at 10am, late check-out at 4pm & complimentary pool and beach access. The offer is valid through to April 30, 2018. For terms and conditions visit www.ritzcarlton.com
Kissed by the Indian Ocean, this is a tropical hideaway of the finest order. Tucked on a rocky outcrop on the southernmost tip of India’s Teardrop and sprawling across a coconut grove, it feels more like a botanical garden than a hotel. Interiors are modern and fresh with plenty of blue accents and dark wood. Great views come as standard and most of the rooms overlook the ocean. If you can, plump for one of the villas. They’re super spacious and offer much more privacy, featuring a terrace with a gloriously oversized plunge pool. While the villas don’t uniformly offer coastal vistas, the gardens provide a joyful array of birdlife that’s entertainment in itself. Kingfishers take flight, peacocks strut their stuff, and you’ll soon be able to tell your babblers and bulbuls from your barbets as they flit between swaying palms. If you hear a bang on the roof, don’t panic: it’s just the purple-faced monkey clan doing the rounds. Four good restaurants, tennis courts, a huge double-tier pool with sunken loungers and a dream of a spa complete the look. Doubles from $335. tangalle.anantara.com
APRIL For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range. 1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml
THE PANTRY PAGES 18-23
Raspberry dressing MAKES ENOUGH TO DRESS A LEAFY SALAD FOR 6-8 PEOPLE
1tbsp raspberry vinegar ½ tsp Dijon mustard 3 tbsp. lemon-infused olive oil Pinch of caster sugar
Put all the ingredients plus a pinch of salt into a screw-topped jar and shake to emulsify. Pour over a leafy salad just before serving.
Raspberry and lemon thyme vinegar MAKES APPROX 600ML
The vinegar will keep for at least four months – use for dressings. Regular thyme can replace lemon thyme if the latter is unavailable. 750g raspberries 500ml white balsamic vinegar 2 lemon thyme sprigs
Macerated raspberries
Raspberry sauce
SERVES 4-6
MAKES APPROX 500ML
250g raspberries 2 tbsp. icing sugar 3-4 tbsp. balsamic vinegar Clotted cream, to serve
This sauce can also be transformed into a quick sorbet by freezing it until almost solid, pulsing in a processor until completely broken down, then re-freezing for 45 minutes before serving. The sauce works very well with red fruits, peaches and ice cream.
Place the raspberries in a bowl, sift over the icing sugar and pour over the balsamic vinegar. Leave to macerate for 30 minutes. You can crush some of the raspberries if you wish. Lovely served with clotted cream. 92
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500g raspberries Juice of 1 lemon
3 tbsp. icing sugar
Place all the ingredients in a blender and whizz to a purée, then strain through a nylon sieve set over a bowl, pushing the purée through with the back of a ladle. Discard the seeds. Taste and add more icing sugar if needed, depending on your preference and how acidic the fruit is. Store the sauce in a covered container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.
Place the raspberries in a glass or ceramic bowl and squash with a potato masher. Pour over the white balsamic and push the lemon thyme sprigs into the mixture. Cover with cling film and leave in a cool, dark place for about a week for the flavour and colour to develop. Squash the raspberries with a fork every few days. Pass through a fine nylon sieve and fish out the thyme. If there are still solid bits in the vinegar, pass through a muslinlined sieve so it is clear. Pour into a clean, sterilised bottle and store in the cupboard.
Raspberry and white chocolate baked cheesecake MAKES 9 SQUARES
20g salted butter, melted and cooled, plus extra to grease 200g soft amoretti 1½ tbsp. fine rice flour 350g good-quality white chocolate, broken into small pieces 300ml double cream 500g full-fat cream cheese 75g caster sugar 3 large eggs 400g raspberries icing sugar, sifted, to dust 6-7cm deep, 20cm-square loose-bottomed tin
Grease the sides of the cake tin and line the base and sides with 2 wide strips of non-stick baking paper. Break the amoretti into a food processor, add in the rice flour and pulse to a fine crumb. Mix in the melted butter then press the crumbs evenly over the base of the cake tin and place in the fridge to chill. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 170°C/340°F/Gas 3. Place the chocolate and cream in
a bowl and set over a smaller pan of just simmering water, without letting it touch the water. Remove from the heat after 6 minutes, stir well until combined and completely melted, and set aside to cool for about 10 minutes. Whisk the cream cheese until light then whisk in the sugar and the eggs, one at a time, until smooth, and stir in the chocolate mixture. Pour one-third of the cream cheese mixture over the chilled base, and scatter over 100g raspberries. Follow with another third of the mixture, and another 100g raspberries, then pour over the remaining mixture. Place the tin on a baking tray and bake for 45-60 minutes, until the surface of the cheesecake is tinged a pale golden colour, and the centre has a slight wobble. Turn off the heat and leave the cheesecake in the oven for 30 minutes, then remove to cool in the tin on a wire rack for 1 hour. Remove the sides of the tin and place the cheesecake in the fridge overnight. Just before serving, scatter over the rest of the raspberries, sift over a little icing sugar, and cut into 9 squares.
Rose and raspberry panna cotta with fairy floss and rose petals MAKES 4-6
Persian fairy floss, called pashmak, is available from Middle Eastern grocers and some highend food halls such as Selfridges. For the panna cotta 500ml double cream 50g caster sugar 3 gelatine sheets 3 tbsp. rosewater For the raspberry layers 200g raspberries 2 tbsp. rosewater 2 tbsp. icing sugar To decorate 3 tbsp. pistachios, crushed fresh, Unsprayed pink rose petals (optional) Rose-flavoured Persian fairy floss (optional)
To make the panna cotta, place the cream and sugar in a saucepan over a low heat for 15 minutes, until the cream has
reduced a little. Be sure not to let it boil. Meanwhile, place the gelatine in a bowl and cover with cold water for 5 minutes until soft, then remove from the bowl and squeeze out the excess water. Pour the cream mixture into a bowl and stir in the gelatine, which will dissolve right away. Leave to cool, then stir in the rosewater and transfer to the fridge until the mixture is just starting to gel and hold its shape, about 40 minutes. For the raspberry layer, roughly crush the raspberries in a bowl with the rosewater and icing sugar, then divide half the mixture between 4-6 glasses. Spoon over half the chilled cream mixture and place in the fridge for 30 minutes to firm up. Divide the rest of the raspberry mixture between the glasses and top with the remaining cream mixture, then return to the fridge for a few hours to set. When ready to serve, scatter over some crushed pistachios and serve with rose petals and fairy floss, if using.
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RECIPES
Raspberry and coconut semifreddo MAKES 8 SLICES
For the raspberry layers 180g caster sugar 350g raspberries 150ml coconut cream For the coconut cream layer 2 egg whites (or equal quantity pasteurised egg whites if preferred) 110g caster sugar 150ml coconut cream 125ml double cream 125g firm, dry raspberries 19cm x 11cm x 8.5cm tin
Line the tin with cling film, leaving a large overhang. To make the raspberry layer, put the sugar in a saucepan with 125ml cold water and place over a low heat. When the syrup becomes clear, remove from the heat and pour into a measuring jug. Put the raspberries in a blender and whizz to a purée, then strain through a fine nylon sieve set over a bowl, pushing the purée through with the back of a ladle. Discard 94
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the seeds and pour the purée into the measuring jug with the syrup. Whisk in the coconut cream, then pour just slightly less than half the mixture into the tin and place in the freezer for 1 hour. Meanwhile, to make the coconut layer, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form. Add the sugar, 1tbsp at a time, whisking between each addition until firm and glossy. Without washing the whisk, whisk the coconut cream and cream together until floppy then fold into the meringue mixture. Spoon half the coconut mixture over the raspberry layer in the tin and arrange the raspberries on top, then spoon over the rest of the coconut mixture and place in the freezer for 30 minutes. Pour the rest of the raspberry mixture carefully over the top (right to the top of the tin) and freeze overnight. To unmould, invert the serving dish over the tin with the overhanging cling film sticking out then turn up the right way. Leave for about a minute to loosen, then ease the cling film outwards to release the semifreddo. Let soften for a few minutes then slice and serve.
Sweet raspberry, cucumber and mint tabbouleh SERVES 4 AS A DESSERT
Serve the tabbouleh as a dessert with the vanilla ricotta (below) or as a sweet salad with spicy Middle Eastern-style meat dishes. 75g fine bulgar wheat 25g caster sugar 1 orange 4tbsp limoncello ½ cucumber, roughly peeled, deseeded, finely diced 8 large mint leaves, finely chopped 200g firm raspberries For the vanilla ricotta 125g ricotta, drained 1tsp icing sugar ½ vanilla pod, split and seeds removed
Place the bulgar wheat in a pan, pour over 200ml boiling water
and simmer over a low heat for 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover with a cloth and leave to cool. Put the caster sugar and 1tbsp water in a small saucepan, grate in the orange zest, and place over a low heat. Once the sugar has dissolved into a syrup, remove from the heat and let cool a little, then add the limoncello. Remove the skin and pith from the orange and slice away each segment from between the membrane. Place the segments in with the bulgar, then squeeze the juice from what’s left into the limoncello syrup, pour this over the bulgar and mix to coat. Add the cucumber, mint and raspberries to the bulgar, gently mix to combine, then cover with cling film and chill until 30 minutes before serving. For the vanilla ricotta, place the ricotta, icing sugar and vanilla seeds in a bowl and mix to lightly combine. Serve with the tabbouleh.
THE ITALIAN JOB PAGES 74-79
Pizzette con Gorgonzola e funghi (Gorgonzola and mushroom pizzette) MAKES 30 X 8CM
splash of olive oil 1 garlic clove, peeled and bruised Swiss brown button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced few thyme sprigs, leaves only, plus extra to serve Plain flour, for dusting 1 quantity basic pizzette dough (see recipe, next) Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling Gorgonzola or other creamy blue cheese, sliced Sea salt flakes Pizza stone 8cm cookie cutter
Heat the olive oil and garlic in a frying pan over a medium heat. When the garlic turns fragrant, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, for a few minutes then reduce the heat and add a few thyme leaves. Simmer until the mushrooms have softened, adding a splash of water if they become too dry. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. Preheat your oven to 220C/425F/ Gas 7 and place a pizza stone on a high shelf. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough, flipping it around and over occasionally until you get a roundish shape. Using the cookie cutter, cut out circles of dough. Rub each circle with a little olive
oil. Place a slice of Gorgonzola on each pizzette followed by a small pile of cooked mushrooms. Carefully transfer the pizzettes to the pizza stone and bake for 12 minutes until golden. Drizzle a little extra virgin olive oil on each pizzette, sprinkle over some sea salt and garnish with a sprig of thyme. Serve warm.
Basic pizzette dough 500g plain flour 10g instant dried yeast 1tsp olive oil 1 ½ tsp. salt 40g butter, at room temperature, cut into small cubes
Combine the flour and yeast in a large bowl, then tip on to a clean work surface. Make a well in the centre and gradually add the olive oil and 250ml tepid water. Work the flour into the liquid using a fork, starting from the centre and moving outwards until you have a rough dough. Add the salt and a few cubes of butter and knead into the dough. Keep adding cubes of butter until it is all incorporated and the dough is smooth. Place in a large bowl, cover with cling film and place in a draught-free spot for at least 1 hour or until doubled in size.
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RECIPES
Torcinelli (potato fritters with aniseed) MAKES 15
Polpettine di melanzane (aubergine polpettine) MAKES 14-16
You will need to start this recipe a day ahead. 2 medium aubergines 1 egg, lightly beaten 40g parmesan cheese, grated 40g breadcrumbs, plus extra to crumb 10 mint leaves, finely chopped Grapeseed, peanut or sunflower oil, for frying Food thermometer
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/ Gas 4. Place the aubergines on a roasting tray, prick a couple of times with a fork, then roast for about 45 minutes until the they feel tender when prodded. Set aside and when cool enough to handle, make a slit from the stem to the base. Scoop out the flesh and transfer to a fine-meshed sieve. Push the aubergine pulp through it with the back of a spoon to drain as much liquid as 96
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possible. Place the sieve over a bowl and put in the fridge to drain overnight. The next day, squeeze the flesh to release any remaining liquid (you should have about 250g drained aubergine) then chop finely. Transfer to a large bowl and add the egg, parmesan, breadcrumbs, mint leaves and a pinch of sea salt. Mix well with a spoon to combine. Wet your hands and make golf ballsized polpettine with the mixture before rolling them gently in the extra breadcrumbs. If the mixture doesn’t hold together, simply add a few more breadcrumbs and re-roll them. In a small saucepan or deep fryer, heat enough oil for frying to 180C. Test the temperature by dropping in a cube of bread. If it turns golden in 5 seconds, the oil is ready. Place a few polpettine in the oil without overcrowding the pan and cook, turning regularly, for 4 minutes. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside while you cook the remaining polpettine.
1 large or 2 small Desiree potatoes (you need 175g cooked potato) 175g plain flour 1 tsp instant dried yeast 40g caster sugar, plus extra for dusting 30ml tepid milk 1 egg 40g sultanas, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes ½ tsp aniseed Grapeseed or peanut oil, for frying Light olive oil, for rolling Ground cinnamon, for dusting Food thermometer
Scrub the potato and place in a small saucepan of salted water and bring to the boil. Simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes or until tender. Drain, peel and mash then set aside and keep warm. Place the flour, yeast and sugar in a bowl and lightly whisk to combine. Add the warm mashed potato, milk and egg, and stir with a wooden spoon for 5 minutes or stand mixer until the mixture is
homogenous and smooth. Drain the sultanas, squeeze out any excess liquid, then add them to the mixture along with the aniseed and a pinch of salt. Give it a final stir – the dough will be quite soft. Cover with cling film and set aside in a warm place for about 1 hour or until doubled in size. Heat enough oil for deep frying in a heavy-based saucepan or deep fryer to 180C. With well- oiled hands, take 1 heaped tablespoon of dough, roll into a short baton then twist so that they form the traditional shape. Repeat with the remaining dough. In the hot oil, cook 3-4 torcinelli at a time for 2-3 minutes on each side until pale golden all over and cooked through. Break open the first torcinello to check it is cooked and adjust the oil temperature, if necessary, before proceeding with the remaining torcinelli. Drain on kitchen paper, then transfer to a bowl and toss in the extra sugar while still warm. Dust over a little ground cinnamon just before serving.
Cannoli al cacao con ricotta (cocoa cannoli with ricotta) MAKES 20-24
Grapeseed, Peanut or sunflower oil, for frying 1 egg white, for brushing For the pastry 250g plain flour 40g caster sugar 2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp dark bitter cocoa 2 tsp finely ground coffee 50g cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 2 tsp white wine vinegar 50ml dry white wine 1 egg, lightly beaten
Panino con porchetta (porchetta rolls) SERVES 12
You will need to start this recipe a day ahead. 8 large garlic cloves, minced 1½ tbsp. rosemary leaves, finely chopped 1½ tbsp. wild fennel or fennel fronds, finely chopped 2 tbsp. sea salt, plus extra to serve 1 tbsp. olive oil 3kg veal loin attached, skin on To serve Bread rolls Kitchen string
In a small bowl, make a paste with the garlic, rosemary, fennel, salt and olive oil. Score the flesh side of the veal and rub the paste
into it with your fingertips. Roll up tightly and tie with kitchen string at 6cm intervals. Place the rolled vitello on a wire rack in a roasting tin and set aside in the fridge, uncovered, to rest overnight. Remove the veal from the fridge and pat dry with kitchen paper if the skin is damp. Allow it to come to room temperature for 1 hour before cooking. Preheat the oven to 160C/ 320F/Gas 3. Place the vitello into the oven and cook for 3½ hours. At the end of cooking, turn up the heat as high as your oven will go for about 30 minutes, turning the veal regularly and checking that it doesn’t burn. This ensures that the skin gets crispy. Remove from the oven and rest uncovered for at least 30 minutes. Cut the bread rolls and slice the vitello. Pile the meat on each roll with pieces of crispy skin. Sprinkle with sea salt and serve.
For the filling 600g firm ricotta 150g caster sugar To serve pistachio nuts, crushed Icing sugar Pasta maker (optional) 9cm cookie cutter Metal cannoli tubes Piping bag (optional) Food thermometer
To make the pastry, place the flour, sugar, cinnamon, cocoa, coffee and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Scatter over the butter and using your fingers, work the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the vinegar, wine and egg and stir until well incorporated. Tip the dough on to a lightly floured work surface and knead for about 2 minutes until smooth. Wrap in cling film and place in the fridge for at least
1 hour. To make the filling, mix the ricotta and sugar in a bowl until you have a smooth cream then set aside in the fridge. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface to 1-2mm thick. You can use a pasta machine to roll out the dough, taking it down as far as the thirdlast setting. Using the cookie cutter, cut out circles of dough. Heat enough oil in a saucepan or deep fryer to 170C or until a scrap of dough dropped into the oil bubbles immediately. Wrap the dough circles around cannoli tubes so the edges overlap slightly. Seal the edges with egg white and press firmly. Brush a little egg white over the shell as well. Cook the cannoli tubes one at a time for 2-2½ minutes until brown. Lift the cannoli out with tongs (or take out the basket if using a deep fryer). Shake the shell from the tube and place on kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil. If the shells don’t come off easily, leave them to cool slightly then hold them gently with kitchen paper and use the tongs to pull the tubes from the cooked pastry. Wipe the metal tube with kitchen paper and wrap another uncooked pastry circle around the tube, sealing it well with egg white. Repeat until they are all cooked. Fill the cooled shells with the ricotta cream, using a knife to push the mixture in from either end. Alternatively, put the sweet ricotta in a piping bag and pipe into the tubes using a wide nozzle. To serve, dip the ends of the cannoli in the crushed pistachio nuts and dust with icing sugar.
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LAST WORD WITH
Julie Watson
Her career has taken her from South Africa to Dubai. Now head chef at Nourish, Julie shares her vision of health and wellness through food Did you always want to become a chef / restaurateur? In all honesty, it just happened. I have found myself in this industry from the tender age of 9 or 10, helping our neighbour at the time, and decorated chef in our neighbourhood, with a busy function, as some of his staff did not show. I was friends with his daughter and the two of us were tasked to retrieve used crockery. It was on that evening that I got my first glimpse into the life of a busy kitchen. I remember vividly the smells that came from the huge stock pots simmering away on the range. It was all very exciting for an already adventurous little girl. You are a champion of ‘Farm to Plate’ healthy organic cuisine; is this more difficult to achieve in the UAE? Oh yes. As we all know, most of the produce found in UAE is imported. Trouble is, I cannot just get on the phone with a supplier every morning, ask what’s good today, place my order and have delivery within a few short hours. What we do here at Nourish is research our suppliers. We form close connections with our designated sales persons and ask for all the details on the produce that they source. We are very selective on the origin of our produce, the treatment of the animals and the agricultural practises of the farms. What does ‘good food’ mean to you? I consider good food to be ingredients processed as little as possible. Good food is produce that has been treated with the utmost respect, left in its most natural, most nutritious, state. Good food is where time and natural resources were spent to create it rather than money invested to find short cuts and capitalize on those who are naïve, too busy or just too lazy to take the time in turning it into a meal. Is there anyone you would like to cook for but haven’t yet got the chance to? I have cooked for many, many celebrities, world leaders, influencers, comedians, even for Prince Harry, but the one person that I really wanted to cook for was Leonard Cohen. What I enjoy most now a day, is entertaining friends and family at my home. I love throwing a huge party, and I almost always over cater. What made you decide to open this new concept in Dubai? While going through interview processes to find my place, my mind was set on having the right team behind me. The owners of Nourish were just that. Their passion for great tasting, simple food shone through during our mutual interview, so we gave each other a shot, and it is working. Funny enough, I was working on a concept of my own a few short months prior to developing this, and I titled it Nourish. What do you like doing in your spare time? I do not know this thing you call ‘spare time’. Being a chef and restaurateur is a labour of love. We give it all our time. We sleep, dream, and eat F&B. My spare time, being driving to and from work, the hour of unwinding before bed consists of some more R&D, a hot shower and a quick cuddle with my kitty, Sage. LOL! Even my pets are named after food. I also have 2 beardies named: Curry & Turmeric. When I’m really desperate for something not relating to food, I paint, swim & braai! nourishme.ae