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EASTERN EYE April 22, 2011 29
WOMENZone Farrah Chaudhry is a freelance writer and playwright
LE CAREER AND WINNING AN OSCAR where there were also shows being done, but cinema was always my passion because it gave me scope to express my creativity. It enabled me to do everything from period pieces to contemporary designs. For me costume designing is so satisfying and fulfilling and it has got a timeless life, whereas fashion trends will come and go,” she says.
Meanwhile, the amazing work that Bhanu was doing in commercial Hindi films hadn’t gone unnoticed in the west and she was asked to design for Richard Attenborough’s multi-Oscar winning drama Gandhi. “Internationally people abroad raved about my work in Gandhi, but in India, most said ‘Madam, what did you do? Everything looks so normal’,” she says laughing. “Those people thought that doing something for western cinema has to be outlandish, but designers from abroad said what I had done was amazing.” The simple yet effective pieces that had been designed for Gandhi led to Bhanu becoming the first Indian to win an Academy Award in 1983. “At the Oscar function when three of us were sitting in a row waiting to be called, my competitors said, ‘we don’t stand a chance because it is going to be yours.’ “I asked why they thought that, and they said because my canvas was so huge. The 50-year span of Gandhiji’s life, and showing the transformation in his own personality was such a handful, and the crowd of thousands had to be dressed. They could see that every stage of Gandhi’s life and where he visited was there. “So much had to be contributed and I was ready for it. Richard Attenborough was making a complex film and needed someone who knew India inside out,” she says. So how did Bhanu feel about winning an Oscar? “I
went up on stage and held the statue in my hand. I just thought, this is too good to be true. I thanked Sir Richard Attenborough for focusing world attention on India and thanked the Academy. Gandhi became a hit all over the world and it continues today,” she says. “Of course there was a great vision, great script and wonderful acting by each person. A film like this cannot come your way all the time. You’re talking about a well-known personality who has made a contribution to the world and being made by a director who is so right in his thinking. The win was ultimately thanks to the hard work each person put into it, like Ben Kingsley.” Instead of resting on her laurels, Bhanu continued to design costumes for the biggest films in the 1980s and 90s in films like Agneepath, Henna, Prem Rog Rog, 1942: A Love Story and Chandni. The turn of the millennium didn’t stop the hardworking designer as she delivered costumes for critically acclaimed feature films including Swades and Oscar-nominated movie Lagaan. “I would say the combination of the story, the directors’ vision and actors flair to get into the spirit of the costume combine to make a deep impact on the audience,” she says. Unfortunately though, the ace designer wasn’t able to keep the stunning costumes she designed. “Well, costumes become the producers’ property. Once in a while you might find an actress putting all her clothes into a suitcase and taking them home. Salma Agha loved my costumes (for Nikaah) so much that she told the producers, ‘I’m going to take these home with me.’ But otherwise most of the time the costumes belong to the producers so I don’t have a right to take them.” When talks veers towards to the present-day Bollywood, Bhanu thinks the industry is doing itself a massive disservice when it comes to costume design. “My approach to work has always been to listen to the director first. So I am a director’s designer. This trend today where the stars dictate who should design their costumes is not healthy for cinema. Being a director’s designer and having worked with the best, my belief is that contribution to cinema is different to contribution to fashion. You have to understand that fashion is separate to costume designing. Nowadays designers are more concerned with doing ramp shows and getting the actors to model, which is good for their business but bad for cinema.” Despite being in her 80s, Bhanu still has an appetite for her art and is ready to do more. “Well, you know, I wake up in the morning with so many ideas. I want someone to tap me on the shoulder and say, ‘Will you do this?’ and I’ll say, sure. If the subject is good then I am ready,” she says.
‘Cinema gave me the scope to be creative’
Waheeda Rehman in Guide
Greener English grass As we embrace the spring in the UK, the royal wedding is also gracing us with its presence. It will be hard to escape the event, no matter which way you turn. Even if you fly to the ends of the earth for the Easter break, every news channel will be talking about the momentous occasion. When Prince William announced the engagement last year, the whole world started talking about it and the impending wedding of the heir to a tiny nation’s throne became a hot topic of discussion no matter what your views about the monarchy. London next week will be filled with people from all over the globe, lining the streets to catch a glimpse of the royals. What’s interesting is that while most of us Londoners want to pack our bags and escape, the rest of the world is coming to Britain this month, through the TV channels, internet or radio. Maybe the grass is greener here sometimes too? Mauritian melting pot When it comes to good food, Mauritius seems to have incoporated dishes from all over the world to produce a unique melting pot of local cuisine. Featuring some Chinese sweet and sour chicken, French daube (beef stew) and Muslim biryani, with a little bit of satini on the side (or chutney as we know it), Mauritius has opened its doors to all corners of the goble. Although hesitantly at first, I tried the rich cuisine for the first time at a little eatery in north London recently. As someone who is not adventurous when it comes to food, I was pleasantly surprised by what the family-owned restaurant had to offer and left wanting more. The tantalising flavours showed the benefits of giving things a try before saying no. Out with the old, in with the old High street store River Island hasn’t subscribed to the old saying of out with the old and in with the new. The retailer has based a new line on the store’s foundation – popular high street boutique from the 1960s, Chelsea Girl. This vintageinspired collection boasted trends that have been swept under the carpet over the decades and took style back to where it all began. (Chelsea Girl was the UK’s first fashion boutique chain, way before we knew it as the River Island we see now). So before you give your clothes away because they are ‘out of fashion’, take a moment to consider that the things we get bored of and throw out today may become stylish again in the not-so-distant future.
HairCare with Asgar
What is the best way to persuade my man to get a brand new hairstyle? For the longest time, good hair care hasn’t been top priority for most British-Asian men. Their regime has usually consisted of a quick shampoo followed by a towel dry and some unenthusiastic styling. Things have changed pretty dramatically in the past decade and men are now a lot more conscious about the importance of good hair care. Today guys are open to everything from highlights to a dramatic cut and that is why it’s a good time to talk to your man about a change. Encourage him to get a low maintenance cut that is effective and suits his lifestyle, face shape and build. Once you have a good stylist who can come up with a trendy style that suits him, it’s important that your man adopts the right haircare regime. There are a lot of products on the market that have been specially developed for men and it is essential to use them if he wants the hairstyle to last. Last, but not least, make sure you give him plenty of compliments on his new look. Celebrity stylist Asgar is at Daniel Galvin Hair Salon, 58-60 George Street, London W1U 7ET