Preservatives Newsletter Ashland Consumer Specialties
Nature-Identical Preservatives On The Move Trend scouting with help from Mintel shows that phenoxyethanol remains as the main preservative system in skin care, soap and bath products. There is a major transition, however, toward nature-identical organic acids like benzoic acid/sodium benzoate and Dehydroacetic Acid (DHA). Globally, DHA is currently ranked as one of the top 14 with 20% increased use from 2013 to 2014. Skin Care, Soap and Bath Products - Mintel Data
Customer Edition June 2015
Contents Click on the item to read the article Nature-Identical Preservatives On The Move Optiphen™ P Preservative Platform Web-based Preservatives Selector Tool Regulatory Update Preservatives Highlighted in this Issue
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This edition of the Ashland preservatives newsletter is dedicated to a “new to the world” preservative technology that answers the global trend toward nature-identical and cost-effective preservation.
Industrial Biocides Divested Ashland recently announced that it has agreed to sell the industrial biocides business within Ashland Specialty Ingredients to Troy Corporation, a global leader in microbial control products and performance additives. Industrial biocides are used to help control and prevent the growth of bacteria, mold and other microorganisms in a wide range of coatings, construction materials and energy products. Ashland’s lineup of preservative products, used in a wide variety of personal care products in consumer markets, is excluded from the Troy agreement. Ashland remains committed to the further development and growth of its preservatives business.
Disclaimer : Ashland Inc. and its subsidiaries (“Ashland”) believe that all information provided with respect to its products is accurate at the time such information is provided. All statements, information, and data presented herein are believed to be accurate and reliable, but are not to be taken as a guarantee, an express warranty, or an implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which Ashland assumes legal responsibility. They are offered solely for your consideration, investigation, and verification. All recommendations or suggestions contained herein must be evaluated by the user to determine their applicability or suitability for a particular application. Users are encouraged to read and understand the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) and to abide by all use and safety recommendations detailed therein and on all product labeling. No freedom to use any patent owned by Ashland is to be inferred.
With good chemistry great things happen.™
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Preservatives Newsletter (Customer Edition)
June 2015
Optiphen™ P preservative Platform Companies are faced with market pressure to move away from certain preservative chemistries due to, new regulatory requirements and due to ever changing end-product formulation trends. Formulators are thus challenged to find a preservative system that fits all products and at the same time offers broad-spectrum protection. The formulators often look for preservatives that do not contain alcohol, parabens, isothiazolinone, halogens, or formaldehyde donors. Furthermore, formulators require progressive preservative systems that are cost-effective. The Optiphen P preservative technology platform was developed to address these needs and offer a solution for end-product preservation. This new to the world technology is based on an optimized delivery system that maximizes efficacy of the actives, which will have minimal impact on the rheological properties of end products. Optiphen DP preservative is the first technology from this platform to be introduced to the market. This patent-pending delivery system boosts the performance of the active ingredients, with no or minimal interference or destabilization of the end product. The product provides comprehensive antimicrobial protection in both aqueous and emulsion-type formulations. Additionally, this preservative meets the growing consumer trend for natural products and conforms to the requirements for several eco-labels, including Bra Miljöval (Good Environmental Choice), Nordic Eco-labelling (Swan), and the EU Eco-label (Flower) 2014/893/EC. Optiphen DP preservative is easy-to-use. The following examples indicate how Optiphen DP preservative performs well in wipes, shampoo, and lamellar gels. Wipes: The addition of 1% Optiphen DP preservative showed excellent efficacy when combined with 0.3% of the booster, Optiphen OD preservative booster, in wipes systems. As shown in chart 1 baby wet wipes (pH 4.5 – 5.0) were inoculated with mixed microbial suspensions containing approximately 107 cfu/mL microorganisms. The wet wipes were stored at room temperature in the dark and the microbial load was evaluated after 7, 14, and 21 days after inoculation. No growth of bacteria, yeast or fungi was detected after 21 days of inoculation. Chart 1: Baby Wipes Challenge Tests Wet Wipe with 1% Optiphen DP preservative + 0.3% Optiphen OD preservative booster
Wet Wipe Unpreserved 1.0E+06 cfu/g
1.0E+05 1.0E+04 1.0E+03 1.0E+02 1.0E+01 1.0E+00
1.0E+07
Bacteria
Bacteria Yeast Fungi
1.0E+06
Yeast
1.0E+05
Fungi cfu/g
1.0E+07
1.0E+04 1.0E+03 1.0E+02 1.0E+01 1.0E+00
Inoculation
7d
14 d
21 d
Shampoos: A mild clear conditioning shampoo of the formula shown in Table I was prepared by dissolving the cocamidopropyl betaine and SLES in water, then adding the Ceraphyl™ 41 ester, C12 - 15 alkyl lactate, citric acid, sodium chloride and Optiphen DP preservative at 0.5% by wt. The system was then inoculated with microorganisms (bacteria, yeast and fungi) following the 28 day double inoculation test protocol. The microbial suspension contained about 105-6 cfu/g microorganisms. The inoculated product was stored at 30°C and the microbial load was evaluated after 7, 14 and 21 days after inoculation. After 21 days, the formulation was reinoculated with the same microorganisms at a similar strength. As shown in Chart 2, the shampoo passed the 28 day double inoculation tests with excellent preservation delivered by the 0.5% Optiphen DP preservative. Also shown in Chart 2, excellent preservation of the shampoo was obtained with already 0.5% Optiphen DP preservative. No yellowing of the system was detected.
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Preservatives Newsletter (Customer Edition)
June 2015
Table I – Mild Clear Conditioning Shampoo Ingredients
INCI Name
Deionized Water
Water
%W/W
Tego™ Betain C 60*
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (46.4%)
Emal™ 270th*
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (70%)
1.00E+07
13.00
Ceraphyl 41 ester
C12-15 Alkyl Lactate
1.00E+06
KAO Chemicals Bacteria
1.00
Ashland
Citric Acid (25% Aq. Solution)
Citric Acid
Sodium Chloride (25% Aq. Solution)
Sodium Chloride
Unpreserved Control 6.50
cfu/g
1.00E+05 1.00E+04 1.00E+03
1.00E+03
Fungi
0.5% Optiphen DP preservative @ pH 5.3 1.00E+06
Bacteria
Bacteria
1.00E+05 Yeast Fungi
1.00E+04 cfu/g
cfu/g
1.00E+04
4.00
Yeast
1.00E+00
Unpreserved Control
1.00E+05
0.09
1.00E+01
Chart 2: Shampoo Challenge Test
1.00E+06
Evonik
1.00E+02
* Tradename owned by a third party.
1.00E+07
Supplier
75.41
1.00E+03
1.00E+02
1.00E+02
1.00E+01
1.00E+01
1.00E+00
Yeast Fungi
1.00E+00
cfu/g
Lamellar Gels: 0.5% A lamellar with excellent Optiphen gel DP preservative @ pH 5.3skin care properties was prepared following directions in Table II. The system was then inoculated with microorganisms (bacteria, yeast and fungi) following the 28 day double inoculation tests described above. The 1.00E+06 Bacteria addition of 1.6% Optiphen DP preservative was able to offer good protection to this system passing the 28 day double inoculation 1.00E+05 test without any yellowing development. (Chart 3). Yeast 1.00E+04 1.00E+03
Fungi
1.00E+02 1.00E+01 1.00E+00
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Preservatives Newsletter (Customer Edition)
June 2015
Table II – Lamellar Gel Ingredients
INCI Name
%W/W
Supplier
Phase A Deionized Water
Water
77.23
Versene™ 220 Crystals*
Tetrasodium EDTA
0.07
Dow
Glycerin
Glycerin
5.00
RITA
TEA
Triethanolamine
0.05
Ruger
UltraThix™ P-100 polymer
Acrylic Acid/VP Crosspolymer
0.50
Ashland
ProLipid™ 141 lamellar gel
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and) Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol
4.50
Ashland
Ceraphyl™ 847 ester
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
4.00
Ashland
Ceraphyl 424 ester
Myristyl Myristate and Myristyl Laurate
2.00
Ashland
Ceraphyl 494 ester
Isocetyl Stearate
3.00
Ashland
Belsil™ DM 100*
Dimethicone
1.00
Wacker
Emulsynt™ GDL emulsifier
Glyceryl Dilaurate
1.00
Ashland
Vital™ ET biofunctional
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates
1.50
Ashland
TEA
Triethanolamine
0.15
Ruger
Phase B
Phase C
Total
100.00 Unpreserved Control
* Trademark owned by a third party. 1.00E+07
cfu/g
1.00E+06 Procedure 1. Add Phase A ingredients in the water. 1.00E+05 2. Disperse UltraThix P-100 polymer in Phase A, heat to 75°C. Helix blade, 500 RPM. 1.00E+04 3. Combine Phase B ingredients in a separate beaker, heat to 75°C. 1.00E+03 4. At 75°C homogenize Phase A with Turrax. After a couple of minutes add Phase B with Turrax. 1.00E+02 5. Cool to 50°C, add Phase C, homogenize with Turrax then switch to blade mixer.
Bacteria Yeast Fungi
1.00E+01
pH 5.4 – 6.0; White shiny cream; Viscosity: 21,000
1.00E+00
Chart 3: Lamellar Gel Challenge Tests 1.6% Optiphen DP preservative @ pH 6.0
Unpreserved Control 1.00E+07
1.00E+06
Bacteria
1.00E+06
1.00E+04
Yeast Fungi
1.00E+03 1.00E+02
1.00E+01
1.00E+00
1.00E+00
1.6% Optiphen DP preservative @ pH 6.0 1.00E+06
4
1.00E+05
Bacteria Yeast
cfu/g
1.00E+04 Fungi 1.00E+03
Yeast Fungi
1.00E+03 1.00E+02
1.00E+01
Bacteria
1.00E+04
cfu/g
cfu/g
1.00E+05
1.00E+05
Preservatives Newsletter (Customer Edition)
June 2015
Conclusion In multiple challenge tests conducted in our global laboratories, Optiphen DP preservative has been shown to protect products in the range of 0.3% to 2.0%. The technology is based on organic acids, so it is recommended for products at pH of 6.0 or lower. Optiphen DP preservative can be used to preserve wet wipes systems, rinse-off cosmetics (shampoos, shower gels, foam bath, body washes, conditioners, etc.) and care products (moisturizers, cream, sunscreens, lotions, gels, foundations, etc.). Optiphen DP preservative is the first product launched from the Optiphen P preservative platform. This patent-pending delivery system boosts the performance of the active ingredients, with no or minimal interference or destabilization of the end product. This new technology contains nature-identical and naturally derived actives and conforms to Eco-label requirements from several organizations.
Web-based Preservatives Selector Tool
Use the Ashland preservative selector tool in your day-to-day work. It is easy to navigate, and helps you determine the preservative technology that best fits your needs. The tool is accessible from any desktop computer or mobile device. If you have yet to use the tool, check it out under preservativeselector.com.
Regulatory Update European Commission publishes two regulations restricting the use of parabens and CMIT/MIT On 18 September 2014 EU Commission regulation No 1004/2014 was published amending Annex V of the EU Cosmetics Regulation and confirming that propyl and butyl parabens are safe for use in cosmetic products where the sum of individual concentrations of propyl and butyl parabens does not exceed 0.14% (as acid). The same regulation also prohibits the use of propyl and butyl parabens in leave-on cosmetic products designed for application to the nappy area of children below 3 years. Leave-on products not intended to be applied to the nappy area of children less than 3 years should be labelled with “Do not use on the nappy area�. Under the amending regulation, companies had 6 months to place compliant products onto the EU market (from 16 April 2015) and 12 months to remove non-compliant products (until 16 October 2015). Also published on 18 September 2014 was Commission Regulation (EU) No 1003/2014 amending Annex V of the EU Cosmetics Regulation and banning the use of CMIT: Chloromethylisothiazolone & MIT: Methylisothiazolone in leave-on products. Companies have 9 months to place compliant products onto the EU market (until 16 July 2015) and 18 months to withdraw non-compliant products from the market (until 16 April 2016).
European Commission proposal for formaldehyde Following the reclassification of formaldehyde as a Category 1b Carcinogen from the 1st January 2016, the European Commission plans to remove the entry for formaldehyde from Annex V (Preservatives List) of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (1223/2009/EC). Its entry in Annex III which permits use in nail hardeners will also be updated in accordance with the recent SCCS: Scientific Committee of Consumer Safety conclusions on this use. By the 1st of January 2016, all products containing formaldehyde should be removed from sale and should be reformulated to remove formaldehyde apart from the permitted use in nail hardeners. There is no proposal from the European Commission to remove the entries for any of the formaldehyde donor preservatives from Annex V. We understand that the Commission instead plans to assess the formaldehyde coming from the donor preservatives through SCCS evaluations of the individual preservatives themselves.
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Global Headquarters Ashland Inc. 50 East RiverCenter Blvd. Covington, KY 41012 USA Tel: +1 859 815 3333 Ashland Specialty Ingredients 8145 Blazer Drive Wilmington, DE 19808 USA Tel: +1 877 546 2782 Regional Sales Offices North America Bridgewater, NJ USA Tel: +1 800 505 8984
Preservatives Newsletter (Customer Edition)
Preservatives Highlighted in this Issue Trade Name Optiphen DP preservative
INCI Name Propylene Carbonate (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Propanediol (and) PVP
Optiphen OD preservative booster
Caprylyl Glycol
Latin America São Paulo, Brazil Tel: +55 11 3649 0454 +55 11 3649 0450 Europe Barcelona, Spain Tel: +34 93 298 0700 Fax: +34 93 298 0705 Asia Pacific Singapore Tel: +65 6775 5366 Fax: +65 6775 5433 Shanghai, P.R. China Tel: +86 21 6090 6606 Fax: +86 21 6090 6699 Middle East/Africa/India Turkey Tel: +90 216 538 08 00 Fax: +90 216 538 08 80 personalcare@ashland.com ashland.com ® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries © 2015, Ashland PC-13231
The information contained in this brochure and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk after they have performed necessary technical investigations, tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. This material is for informational purposes only and describes products for use as ingredients in cosmetic products intended to enhance appearance and provide other cosmetic benefits. Certain end uses of some products may be regulated pursuant to rules governing medical devices or other regulations governing drug uses. It is the end user’s responsibility to determine the applicability of such regulations to its products. While the information herein is believed to be reliable, Ashland Inc. does not guarantee its accuracy and a purchaser must make its own determination of a product’s suitability for purchaser’s use, for the protection of the environment, and for the health and safety of its employees and the purchasers of its products. Neither Ashland nor its affiliates shall be responsible for the use of this information, or of any product, method, formulation, or apparatus described in this brochure. Nothing herein waives any of Ashland’s or its affiliates’ conditions of sale, and no statement, information and data is to be taken as a guarantee, an express warranty, or an implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which Ashland and its affiliates assume legal responsibility. We also make no warranty against infringement of any patents by reason of purchaser’s use of any information, product, method or apparatus described in this brochure.
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June 2015
Features and Benefits • Microbiostatic spectrum of activity, in some formulations additional booster is needed • Effective up to pH 6.0 • Global use† • Cost-efficient preservative based on uncontroversial ingredients • Optimized delivery system without alchoholic antimicrobials • Moisturizing agent • Solvent for active ingredients • Humectant • Preservative booster
† For country - specific details, please contact your technical service representative.