UNICORN IS IN THE BOX by asta lab

unicorn is in the box

UNICORN IS IN THE BOX WHAT: Conceptual Fashion Exhibition during the Berlin Fashion Week WHEN: July 7-13, 2014 WHERE: PANKE Culture, Berlin (Germany) During the Berlin Fashion Week 8 Lithuanian fashion designers questioning the concept of fashion by means of contemporary art were presented at an exhibition at the â&#x20AC;&#x153;PANKE cultureâ&#x20AC;? spaces. It was the unconventional fashion exhibition contradicting commercial implications and consumer culture, constantly articulated by the fashion industry. The exhibition revolved around the search of conceptual topics as well as nonconformist means of expression (using objects, installations, audio and video works) and invited both artists and visitors to ponder upon the boundary between fashion and art.

unicorn is in the box

Artistic creation levitates above the majority of human activities. Being nonfunctional as well as non-causal, it transmits the full-scale information of not only what is already visible, comprehensible or meaningful. Creation is a phenomenon one can be either devoted or ignorant to; however, despite one or another strategy used, one may be gripped, shocked or emotionally overwhelmed by their direct contact with it. The only possible self-liberation here is an analysis or an imitation of one’s encounter with a creative process; it is either an attempt to forget the experience, or to fully immerse oneself in it. This exhibition is therefore a certain confrontation with repetitive, yet unanswered questions, quite frequently articulated within the fashion discourse: is fashion art? what is the relationship between fashion and art? The works presented at the exhibition invite their viewers to contemplate and critically evaluate the crossover of fashion and art, as well as their clichés and ideologies. The authors challenge the related topics conveying their explanations through fashion instrumentation and representational forms of contemporary art. “Unicorn is in the Box” is a poetic and a little infantile name of the exhibition, referring to the lack of theoretical and analytical approach to the fashion discourse. In this case, terms such as trendy, fashionista, must-have, vintage, retro, style, icon used by fashion media are rather inadequate to properly describe and develop on both the conception and the significance of a fashion piece. That is why even utilitarian fashion designers get rather frustrated to have their works described in terms of plastics only. The title “Unicorn is in the Box” may be interpreted both as fashion criticism and an invitation to analyze not only the outer part of the “box”, but also its content. While questioning these aspects, we will eventually come to realize that we consume not only clothing products, but also symbols and ideologies aﬀecting both individual emotions and psychocultural features of the society. Curator Asta Labžentytė

unicorn is in the box

u unicorn is in the box

unicorn is in the box

Designers

vidmina stasiulytė kristina valančiūtė Jurga sutkutė BENAS BOGUšAS Agnė Biskytė rūta zlatkauskienė rūta sakalauskaitė ANETA MACKONYTĖ

unicorn is in the box

vidmina stasiulytė 1984 09 24 vidmina@gmail.com +37061111465

It‘s a vocation (smiles). 2. If I wasn‘t a designer, I would A teacher/professor or an astronaut. 3. Is it difficult to create? What/who is your main drive? It is, if one is a perfectionist. If not, then it‘s easy. 4. Does the creative process of designing casual outfits differ from that one of creating conceptual pieces of fashion/art? If yes, how? The process is absolutely diﬀerent. When creating conceptual pieces of fashion/art, one does not have in mind a regular consumer, the most important thing then is to purify one‘s own idea. In other cases it a wearer that matters most. 5. Where does your inspiration come from? It comes from petty things. 6. What is an outfit for a person? The second skin, one of the ways to express oneself and one‘s own ego. 7. What is fashion for you? Something that will always generate public interest. 8. The chicken or the egg? The rooster. 9. What do you most appreciate in creation? The process. 10. When creating, do you ask yourself, “Why am I doing this?” Every time. 11. Which is more important: idea or form? Process or result? Idea + process. 12. When is the best time to create? When no-one disturbs me, when I‘m surrounded by silence or my favourite music. 13. Music. What‘s currently on your playlist? Right now it‘s Maritime rites by Alvin Curran. 14. What is the latest book you have read? The I Ching by Wilhelm Baynes. 15. Who are the artists you admire? Ansel Kiefer, Joseph Beuys, Méret Elisabeth Oppenheim, Antoni Tapies, Jannis Kounellis, Lucio Fontana, Olafur Eliasson, Walter de Maria and many more. 16. What is the film you have seen and would undoubtedly watch once again? Stalker by Andrej Tarkovsky. 17. How will a human look like in 2100? Possessing wider eyes and a bigger heart. 18. What does a person‘s body, outfit or looks reveal to you? Each of us is exceptional. 19. Why fashion? Vocation and genes (smiles). 20. What does public acclaim or attention mean to you? It means I am simply myself and I follow the right path. 21. What are you most proud of? I‘m proud of everything I have accomplished, no matter how small or big those achievements have been. I cannot single out the particular one. 22. What is Lithuanian fashion/design like? It‘s creative. 23. What is the best piece of advice you have ever received? “Don‘t be afraid to be yourself.” 24. What is the dearest or the most important thing on earth? Love. 25. What is your favourite item? A book. 26. What makes you laugh? Mostly my students and my friends. 27. What upsets you? It‘s when I wish to help but have no power to do so. 28. Is there something you would never wear? Clothes which are too small for me. 29. What is the most unpleasant question? So when are you getting married? (smiles) 1. How do you describe designer‘s profession? be…?

unicorn is in the box

IN A I AS ST Y UL TĖ

Based on scientific space explorations, the artwork by Vidmina Stasiulytė examines the phenomenon of the origins as well as the structure of micro (a human) and macro (the universe) worlds. The author‘s creative collections rest upon the Big Bang and the Black Dot theories, claiming there was neither time, nor space 14 billion years ago; it was only a single black point existing in the vast nothingness out there. Compressed within the Black Dot, the DNA of the Universe was diﬀused into constellations, planets and galaxies at the time the Big Bang happened. The exhibition presents amoebic costumes made by using a unique method of folding and pleating the rectangular-shaped fabric, the pieces of which being joined by using magnets and metal plates. The exhibition also demonstrates the author‘s unique accessory made out of two pieces of optical glass filled with metal dust, magnetic needles and metal granules. While moving either a flat or a ball magnet placed on top of the optical glass, the metal particles mutate and transform making a cracking noise. A meditative video with a soundtrack composed entirely of buzzing noises made by the radio and the accessory teleports its viewers even further to the outer space. The unique footwear decorated with metal rivets as identification codes of various constellations, leaves no chance to escape cosmic experience watching Vidmina‘s works.

DM VI

“GENOME OF THE UNIVERSE“ 2011.

unicorn is in the box

kristina valančiūtė 1986 09 05 kristina_valanciute@yahoo.com +37068484972

...Inquiries...“Creative nightmares“, communication, colours, forms, layout, textures, material, fabrics, models... 2. If I wasn‘t a designer, I would be...? I would simply like to be MYSELF...3. Is it difficult to create? What/who is your main drive? It isn‘t, it‘s more diﬃcult to materialize the ideas sitting at the back of your mind. 4. Does the creative process of designing 1. How do you describe designer‘s profession?

casual outfits differ from that one of creating conceptual pieces of fashion/art? If yes, how?

While creating, one always faces diﬃculties. A casual piece of clothing should be comfortable, yet attractive. An object of conceptual fashion may be unconfortable, yet it must have a reason, a justification. Both forms of creation require dedication and sincere work. 5. Where does your inspiration come from? It comes from my dreams, contemplations, music, travels, feelings, views captured...... The most significant source of inspiration, however, is the desire to move forward and to do things better than the last time. 6. What is an outfit for a person? Firstly, it‘s a means of protection against diﬀerent climatic conditions. Secondly, it‘s a body disguise. Thirdly, it‘s a way of self-expression. 7. What is fashion for you? An interesting and bizzare process. 8. The chicken or the egg? The feathered egg. 9. What do you most appreciate in creation? Panic-free process. 10. When creating, do you ask yourself, “Why am I doing this?” Nearly every time. This question lurks in my mind until I, find reasonable arguments and answers. 11. Which is more important: idea or form? Process or result? Integrity and good feeling is what matters most. 12. When is the best time to create? When the time comes... 13. Music. What‘s currently on your playlist? When tough, chaotic, yet interesting projects are over... I enjoy the SILENCE... With a window opened, I listen to birds... Tomorrow there will be modern classics, like MURCOF... It might be a radio station on the day after tomorrow... Everything depends on the mood and the feeling... 14. What is the last book you have read? The Shack by William Paul Young. 15. Who are the artists you admire? Tilda Swinton, Tim Burton, Rick Owens. 16. What is the film you have seen and would undoubtedly watch once again? Factory girl. 17. How will a human look like in 2100? I think people will continuously form two contrasting groups: the ones getting closer to nature, and the others will be interested in technologies. 18. What does a person‘s body, outfit or looks reveal to you? It encourages thoughts upon the harmony and the whole: is the person being himself? I try to avoid hypocrites! 19. Why fashion? Why not? 20. What does public acclaim or attention mean to you? Possitive assessment shows I‘m on the right track... I think public acclaim is more important to my relatives. Having realised my success, they believe in me more and know how to encourage me to move forward when I need it most... Attention means LOVE, which is my PERPETUUM MOBILE... 21. What are you most proud of? An opening of the Riga Fashion Week with a collection “Evolution”, a photoshoot for the American magazine “Runaway”, a photoshoot and a cover for a book “The Road to Modelling Success” by Vaiva Tučkuvienė. 22. What is Lithuanian fashion/design like? Lithuanians are rather conservative, yet very creative... Having in mind the conditions, I dare to say Lithuanian design is PERFECT and manages to keep up with the global rhythms. 23. What is the best piece of advice you have ever received? „Do only what you know best and what gives you pleasure...“ 24. What is the dearest or the most important thing on earth? ME. 25. What is your favourite item? I don‘t like to attach to things. I‘m more addicted to feelings. 26. What makes you laugh? Strange misunderstandings, recurrent real life situations. 27. What upsets you? Loss, injustice, lying. 28. Which websites do you check daily? www.theyallhateus.com, www.style.com, kristinavalanciute.tumblr.com 29. Is there something you would never wear? Never say never... Wrong outfit on the wrong time?.. Well, if there is a proper mood, I think I can wear anything... 30. What is the most unpleasant question? What‘s up?

unicorn is in the box

kr n

ti is

“Evolution“ 2012 - 2014

l va či

an ė ūt

“Evolution” has been shown on the catwalks of Riga Fashion Week (Latvia), London Fashion Night Out (Great Britain), as well as Fashion Infection (Vilnius, Lithuania). The author, however, has designed new models adapted for the exposition displayed at the Berlin Fashion Week.

The way Kristina Valančiūtė combines avant garde fashion with its utilitarian functionality is mainly based on the usage of traditional and unconventional materials. Following post-industrial aesthetics, the works analyse fundamental transformations and mutations of both nature and culture. Adapted for fashion design, they grow into phenomenal must-haves. The work presented compares the laws of human evolution to the ones of non-traditional materials, for these laws basically determine the links between creative and industrial fashion design. According to the author, any industry/consumeroriented fashion object starts with an ideologically strong motive, however, as the object goes through the manufacturing process, it loses most of its experimental qualities in order to become more functional. “Evolution” demonstrates the author’s eﬀorts to design both emotionally and visually strong and shocking costumes which can be transformed into an extraordinary part of one’s wardrobe worn daily if additional details, i.e. headwear or footwear, are removed.

unicorn is in the box

Jurga sutkutė 1981 01 02 jurga.sutkute@gmail.com +370 682 54 202 www.jurgosoda.lt

1. How do you describe designer‘s

It‘s a very creative,but requires talent, patience, determination and a diﬀerent approach. 2. If I wasn‘t a designer, I would be...? A florist, a ceramist. I wouldn‘t completely escape art (smiles). 3. Is

profession?

it difficult to create? What/who

It isn‘t, because an artist has a gift to see things diﬀerently and an ability to employ various means of expression. Artist can pause physically, yet his/her imaginative carrousel of crazy ideas is always in action. 4. Does the

is your main drive?

creative process of designing casual outfits differ from that one

creating

conceptual

pieces of fashion/art? If yes,

What is an outfit for a person?

An outfit = a person. 7. What is The game I have been playing since my childhood (smiles). I’m not a professional fashion designer. I rather tend to look at this phenomenon through the eyes of an artist and curator. 8. The chicken or the egg? The egg. 9. fashion for you?

What do you most appreciate in

Human is my permanent topic and I just love it. I explore this topic in both conceptual and utilitarian ways. 10. When creating,

creation?

do you ask yourself, “Why am I doing this?”

No. It‘s a discharge. 11.

Which is more important: idea or

Idea and result. 12. When is the best time to create? When everything goes smooth. When there is a restless desire to fight a new task, to check how cool you are. 13. Music. What‘s currently on your playlist? Jazz radio streaming online. 14. What is form? Process or result?

the latest book you have read?

Papa, You‘re Crazy and Mama I Love You by W. Saroyan. 15. Who are

the

artists

you

admire?

Marina Abramovic. 16. What is the

film you have seen and would undoubtedly watch once again?

The Shine.

17. How will a human

look like in 2100? He/she will be wearing a wool sweater and a pair of jeans (smiles).

18. What does a person‘s body,

I like to witness a person going through some kind of transformation. I like to watch his/her appearance modified by time, environment, status, profession, other people. I capture these changes in my mind. 19. Why fashion? My mum has exercised my passion for it. 20. What does public outfit or looks reveal to you?

acclaim or attention mean to

Self-assessment. 21. What are I am proud to have fulfilled the goals I have set to myself: I had a series of exhibitions named Po oda (Under the Skin), joined the Lithuanian Artists‘ Association, participated at Mados infekcija (Fashion Infection), the greatest fashion event in Lithuania, I am now curating the project Ikra Mada. 22. What is Lithuanian

you?

you most proud of?

fashion/design

Lithuanian-like. Conservative.

like? 23.

What is the best piece of advice

you have ever received? When I thought public opinion to be extremely important for me, I got the following piece of advice: “Dude, chillabit, no-one really cares about you!“ 24. What is the dearest or the most important thing on earth?

Family. 25. What is your favourite item? A pair of glasses (smiles). 26. What makes you laugh? Currently, my children. 27. What upsets you? Coldness and indiﬀerence when it comes to human relationships. 28.

Which websites do you check daily?

Standard ones.

29. Is there

something you would never wear?

Yes, it‘s a double strap bodycon dress. 30. What is the most unpleasant question? I don‘t know.

unicorn is in the box

how? When working on conceptual pieces, one frees the form, volume, materiality. When creating functional clothing one is forced to transform and adjust their creative discoveries. 5. Where does your inspiration come from? It comes from the environment I find myself in and my ability to discover as many sources of inspiration as possible. 6.

unicorn is in the box

“Kabura“ (Russian: кобура – a holster). 2009

Ju a rg su ė

ut tk

According to Jurga Sutkutė, the skin a person lives in is perceived as a leather holster (kabura) which eventually turns into a shield serving as a protection against the outer world. This shield forms our understanding of both physical and social environment, emotions and events. In her work, the author defines the skin as a “holster“ of one‘s personal existence. Using minimally treated leather, Sutkutė constructs hyperbolized, geometrically shaped shells and thus re-interprets the significance of an apparatus of manipulation and self-protection to a modern person‘s life. The exhibition shows achromatic kaburas (leather objects), functional minimalistic footwear and the photography capturing both the uniqueness and transformations of the skin.

unicorn is in the box

BENAS BOGUšAS 1983 02 03 benasbogusas@gmail.com +37067226495

Unsolvable puzzle. I‘ve never pondered this question. 3. Is it diﬃcult to create? What/who is your main drive? It is, yet when creating, one is improving. This process is endless. 1. How do you describe designer‘s profession? 2. If I wasn‘t a designer, I would be...

4. Does the creative process of designing casual outfits diﬀer from that one of creating conceptual pieces of fashion/art? If yes, how?

It comes from the environment that surrounds me. It‘s like feathers for a bird. 7. What is fashion for you? The system. 8. The chicken or the egg? The chicken. 9. What do you most appreciate in creative process? Constant improvement. 10. When creating, do you ask yourself, “Why am I doing this?” No. 11. Which is more important: idea or form? Process or result? Everything is important. 12. When is the best time to create? I don‘t have an agenda for that. 13. Music. What‘s currently on your playlist? I now rarely listen to music. 14. What is the latest book you have read? The Snowman by Jo Nesbø. 15. Who are the artists you admire? Magdalena Abakanowicz, Anish Kapoor, Dan Flavin, Sasha Waltz, Pina Bausch, Meredith Monk... 16. What is the film you have seen and would undoubtedly watch once again? The Silence of the Lambs 17. How will a human look like in 2100? Beautifully. 18. What does a person‘s body, outfit or looks reveal to you? He/she is a person. 19. Why fashion? Why not? 20. What does public acclaim or attention mean to you? It‘s not my aspiration. 21. What are you most proud of? Making other person happy. 22. What is Lithuanian fashion/design like? It does have potential. 23. What is the best piece of advice you have ever received? “Remember to say “thank you“. 24. What is the dearest or the most important thing on earth? The better half. 25. What is your favourite item? A ring. 26. What makes you laugh? Something really simple and incredibly stupid. 27. What upsets you? Ill-being. 28. Which websites do you check daily? The most popular ones. 29. Is there something that you will never wear? High heels. 30. What is the most unpleasant question? A question that makes one lie. 5. Where does your inspiration come from? 6. What is an outfit for a person?

unicorn is in the box

It does. More attention is given to a physical body in the former case, whereas the latter case usually deals with a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s emotional form.

unicorn is in the box

(UNI)FORM – (MULTI)FORM” 2010. In his installation “(UNI)FORM – (MULTI)FORM”, Benas Bogušas analyses the links between a creative personality and the world around him/her. Having employed a cube as a geometrical form and a symbol of a reserved personality, the author manipulates its integrity. When dividing and transforming its rigid form, the author seems to be freeing the creator imprisoned inside the cube. Bogušas alters the structure of the cube as well as the colours and a number of its sides to expose both the process of transformation and the transition between the dark and the light, closure and exposure. The harmony of black and white is what dominates in Bogušas’ achromatic objects. Its symbolism rests upon the traditional Western iconography, where the colour black symbolizes death, anger, mourning and repentance and the colour white is a symbol of light, joy, future and hope.

unicorn is in the box

BE BO AS Uš

unicorn is in the box

Agnė Biskytė

1. How do you describe designer‘s profession?

A designer is a person that turns art into function. 2. If I wasn‘t a designer, I would be...

A costume designer (smiles) 3. Is it diﬃcult to create? What/who is your main drive?

Creation is one of the most wonderful things in life... It‘s a pure joy, no torture involved! 4. Does the creative process of designing casual outfits diﬀer from that one of creating conceptual pieces of fashion/art? If yes, how?

It doesn‘t. All you need is knowledge and experience to create something truly valuable. 5. Where does your inspiration come from?

An inspiration to create arises from the surroundings... As well as from something both positively and negatively thrilling. 6. What is an outfit for a person?

An outfit is a shield used within a society... 7. What is fashion for you?

“Fashion“ is a visual expression that embodies the spirit of the particular time. 8. The chicken or the egg?

God (smiles) 9. What do you most appreciate in creation?

Originality and an ability to stay unique. 10.When creating, do you ask yourself, “Why am I doing this?”

No!!! (smiles) When breathing or loving you don‘t question its purpose. Either you create, or you don‘t. 11.Which is more important: idea or form? Process or result?

Everything is important: an idea which dictates the form; a process which is propelled by one’s desire to achieve a perfect result. 12.When is the best time to create?

It is when you know what you are going to create. (...when you have a vision...) 13. Music. What‘s currently on your playlist?

Silence and nature sounds... 14. What is the latest book you have read?

Kazuo Inamori. 15.Who are the artists you admire?

Everyone who is unique and exclusive. 16.What is the film you have seen and would undoubtedly watch once again?

La Grande Bellezza by Paolo Sorrentino; Dogma by Kevin Smith; Howl‘s Moving Castle by Hayao Miyazaki. 17. How will a human look like in 2100?

He/she will reflect the spirit of the time. 18. What does a person‘s body, outfit or looks reveal to you?

It reflects his/her inner world... 19. Why fashion?

...as fashion is eternal by its temporality... 20. What does public acclaim or attention mean to you?

....appreciation. 21. What are you most proud of?

...I am happy when I accomplish my goal, no matter how big or small it is... 22. What is Lithuanian fashion/design like?

Lithuanian fashion/design is a growing phenomenon striving to “fit“ the global fashion trends... 23. What is the best piece of advice you have ever received?

“To live my live in such a way so that I could boldly look into other people‘s eyes.“ 24. What is the dearest or the most important thing on earth?

Love. 25.What is your favourite item?

I‘m not attached to things... 26.What makes you laugh?

Sincere, comical, real life situation; Desperate situation I find myself in; Good joke... (smiles) 27. What upsets you?

...INHUMANNESS...vanity...moral poverty... 28.Which websites do you check daily?

www.bisabisfashion.com (content management) and emails. 29.Is there something you would never wear?

a....something I don‘t like... 30.What is the most unpleasant question?

... It depends on time and situation...

1979 12 19 info@bisabis.eu +37061002794 http://bisabis.eu/

unicorn is in the box

BON TON – EMANCIPATION“ 2008 - 2009 The artwork by Agnė Biskytė questions iconographic femininity and refers to the 20th century processes of gender transformation, the outcome of those being a new strategy for gender identification. “BON TON – EMANCIPATION” illustrates the early 20th century woman‘s “escape” from the long-lasting patriarchal femininity having been attributed to her centuries ago. The woman seems to have rejected good manners (bon ton) to finally reveal the zone of her erotic capital (i.e. her legs) having been hidden for centuries. “BON TON – EMANCIPATION” thrives with iconic symbols of visual culture. Some of them might remind a viewer of a famous scene from the film The Seven Year Itch (1955) directed by Billy Wilder, where Marilyn Monroe is shown laughing as the wind blows up the dress and uncovers her legs. The others might recall a song named Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend from the musical Gentlemen Prefer Blondes as they look at the crystallized shoe soles. This work invites its viewers to reflect upon the dominating standards and symbols of beauty, femininity and masculinity as well as their meanings and representations that are heavily exploited by today’s modern culture. ------Bon ton: in French for good tone, sophisticated manners and politeness; emancipation: in Latin for a release of a child or other dependent from the paternal power; an elimination of prejudices and a gain of equality.

unicorn is in the box

rūta zlatkauskienė 1975 07 11 rut.zlat@gmail.com +37061250325 1.

How do you describe designer‘s profession?

Responsibility. 2.

If I wasn‘t a designer, I would be...

I would only like to create. 3.

Is it diﬃcult to create? What/who is your main drive?

It‘s not. It‘s a fascinating process. 4.

Does the creative process of designing casual outfits diﬀer from that one of creating conceptual pieces of fashion/art? If yes, how?

It does. The former case is dominated by a wearer, whereas the latter one is controlled by a creator. 5.

Where does your inspiration come from?

It comes from the work. 6.

What is an outfit for a person?

A mirror. 7.

What is fashion for you?

A process of change. 8.

The chicken or the egg?

The chicken. 9.

What do you most appreciate in creation?

Creation itself. 10.

When creating, do you ask yourself, “Why am I doing this?”

No. 11.

Which is more important: idea or form? Process or result?

An idea. A process. 12.

When is the best time to create?

When one feels safe. 13.

Music. What‘s currently on your playlist?

Ambient. 14.

What is the latest book you have read?

The Origin of the Work of Art by Martin Heidegger and Hans-Georg Gadamer. 15.

Who are the artists you admire?

I try not to limit myself to one artist. 16.

What is the film you have seen and would undoubtedly watch once again?

Films by Andrej Tarkovsky and Peter Greenaway. 17.

How will a human look like in 2100?

Dressed-up. 18.

What does a person‘s body, outfit or looks reveal to you?

It implies a person‘s self-perception. 19.

Why fashion?

It a reflection of everydayness. 20. What does public acclaim or attention mean to you?

It‘s joyful. 21.

What are you most proud of?

I think it’s still in the future. 22.

What is Lithuanian fashion/design like?

It‘s progressive. 23.

What is the best piece of advice you have ever received?

“Don‘t stop” 24.

What is the dearest or the most important thing on earth?

An ability to understand and to forgive. 25.

What is your favourite item?

A pair of glasses. 26.

What makes you laugh?

A good joke. 27.

What upsets you?

Lack of tolerance. 28.

Which websites do you check daily?

My email. 29.

Is there something you would never wear?

Never..? I don‘t know. 30. What is the most unpleasant question?

“?“.

unicorn is in the box

Rūta Zlatkauskienė The title: “to (mis) carry“ The year: 2010 m. Six objects by Rūta Zlatkauskienė draw a parallel between the life of a person and an outfit as well as capture and compare the phases of human‘s birth, maturity and death. The source of inspiration for the work described has become a linen shroud, i.e. a traditional Lithuanian cloth, ethnographically characterized as a symbol of both the beginning and the end. Traditionally, a linen shroud would be used to wrap up a newborn, to veil newlyweds, or to cover the deceased. Serving its purpose throughtout diﬀerent stages of human‘s life, this piece of cloth would become a highly valuable and cherished family relic. The objects as well as the creative process are classified into “trinomial“ groups: the birth marks an appearance of an idea and a purification of sketches and models, the maturity stands for a realization of objects, whereas the death is related to a final result, its exposition and a possibility for new interpretations. Each phase is illustated by two objects. The first one, depicting the birth, is made from dark, solid and crude linen, where an obscure construction of a garment is just about to reveal itself. The second piece of clothing resembles an actual garment; its sleeves, however, are still attached to the cloth, which is both an allusion to an umbilical cord and a metaphor for one‘s connection with the beginnings. Nine buttons represent nine months of pregnancy and a deep neckline stands for a process of giving birth to a child. At the maturity stage one can witness two jackets: a pair of objects representing two diﬀerent genders. Streched out on a frame, their linings capture and at the same time reject their utilitarian function. At the death stage the first object reflects decay (aged and crumpled linen is used here) and the second one, made from thin cotton, refers to rebirth, reincarnation and a new beginning.

unicorn is in the box

rĹŤ ta zl k at Ä&#x2014;

s au

unicorn is in the box

rūta sakalauskaitė Within itself, designer‘s profession embraces many diﬀerent artistic, technical and technological aspects. In fact, designers remind my sculptors: they both construct spacial forms by going from the very idea to its material realization. 2. If I wasn‘t a designer, I would be...? I‘d like to own a dog shelter (It‘s my childhood dream). 3. Is it difficult to create? What/who is your main drive? I think the complicated part here is to stay marketable. 4. Does the 1. How do you describe designer‘s profession?

creative process of designing casual outfits differ from that one of creating conceptual pieces of fashion/art? If

It diﬀers greatly, at least for me. When designing casual clothing, the key factor is a person wearing it, whereas when creating conceptual pieces, it is an idea that matters most, one is less constrained by technical stuﬀ. 5. Where does your inspiration come from? It‘s a daily routine: people, dreams, walks with my dog. I like watching the environment, I always do it. 6. What is an outfit for a person? It may simply be a body cover or a means of self-expression. For some certain outfit might be a dream come true. 7. What is fashion for you? Fashion fascinates me as the history marking society’s political, cultural and economic changes and transformation. Today I’m more interested in a single design object rather than the entire fashion. Having immersed in a creative process, I don’t think about directions, styles or tendencies; I rather think of what I’m determined to say or to do and what I feel. 8. The chicken or the egg? The egg. 9. What do you most appreciate in creation? A relationship between improvement, freedom and a possibility to play. 10. When creating, do you ask yourself, “Why am I doing this?” Sometimes I do. 11. Which is more important: idea or form? Process or result? Everything is important. It is the whole that pushes to move forward. 12. When is the best time to create? It is when I find myself in a cosy place listening to my favourite music, having had wild dreams, with the head teeming with thoughts. 13. Music. What‘s currently on your playlist? Deux - Game and Performance. 14. What is the latest book you have read? At the moment I‘m reading Crime and Punishment by Fyodor Dostoyevsky and Frank Kruk by Petras Cvirka. 15. Who are the artists you admire? Aitor Throup, Jan Svankmajer, Renato Guttuso and many more. 16. What is the yes, how?

film you have seen and would undoubtedly watch once

Big Fish by Tim Burton. 17. How will a human look like I guess he/she will look diﬀerently from today. 18. What does a person‘s body, outfit or looks reveal to you? It‘s an initial grasp of a person. One can get to know the person‘s lifestyle, hobbies, preferences, etc. 19. Why fashion? If it wasn‘t the fashion, there would be something else. Yet who knows, there still might be something awaiting. 20. What does public acclaim or attention mean to you? It is rewarding, for one feels wanted. 21. What are you most proud of? I am proud I have quit depressing jobs and now I am trying to fulfill my own intentions. 22. What is Lithuanian fashion/design like? I think it‘s a mixture of global fashion and design infused with our national touch. 23. What is the best piece of advice you have ever received? „You have to shake hands firmly to show your respect“ 24. What is your favourite item? My knitting machine. 25. What makes you laugh? Many things. For example, my dog made me laugh today. 26. What upsets you? In order to keep the balance, sometimes one has to stay blue for a while. 27. Is there something you would never wear? Never say never. 28. What is the most unpleasant question? What kind of nonsense are you doing here? again?

in 2100?

1988 10 31 rutasakalauskaitee@gmail.com +37062342220

unicorn is in the box

rū ta K US LA KA SA TĖ AI

“Who is in the box?” 2014 In her conceptual and yet utilitarian objects Rūta Sakalauskaitė examines a relationship between a closed and open form as the phenomena of a game, knowing, hope and astonishment. According to the author, it is the joy of discovery which is caused by the uniformed exteriors and their diverse contents. Within five wooden boxes there are diﬀerent elements of outfit (a shopping bag, a sweater, a jacket, etc.) locked inside. Having unfolded the box one is surprised to find out that its content is now decorated with the folding curves of the box. The artwork communicates the functions of unpacking, demystification of content and knowledge acquisition. It also refers to a hope chest used by unmarried Lithuanian women up till the early 20th century to store their personal assets which would later be brought to a groom’s house both as a dowry and a reminiscence of her previous home.

unicorn is in the box

ANETA MACKONYTĖ

1989 05 30 aneta.mackonyte@gmail.com +447447527801

1. How do you describe designer‘s profession? It is a mystical relationship between an object and a creator. An alchemy. An ability to ignite life as if allowing a garment to expand the body space and to become a part of one‘s identity. 2. If I wasn‘t a designer, I would be...? A creator. Art is the “profession“ that has a power to embrace infinity. It contains everything I am keen on: from experimental dance, Ayurveda, yoga, spiritual practices, holistic lifestyle, travelling, anthropology, scientific inventions, pleasures of gardening, music. I believe creativity is the main ingredient for a complete life. 3. Is it difficult to create? What/who is your main drive? It is not. The most difficult part is to put your ideas into practice. 4. Does the creative process of designing casual outfits differ from that one of creating conceptual pieces of fashion/art? If yes, how? Fashion design is limiting in a way, it is often conceived as lacking some deeper meaning. I am interested in breaking those limits. Contemporary society suffers from consumerism; different items and clothes have lost their soul, authenticity and meaning. In my case, a conceptual garment transforms into a sculpture carrying certain values and meaning. 5. Where does your inspiration come from? It comes from my connection with Nature. 6. What is an outfit for a person? Unfortunately, it is either simply an object to cover one‘s nudity or an exposure of one‘s individuality or ego. 7. What is fashion for you? I think fashion is an over-commercialized and outworn concept. However, an outfit is an element which protects both body and soul. I see clothing as a daily ritual which not only leads to a certain state but also influences the outer world. I am against mass clothing production which leaves no other option but to choose one or another brand. This is when a one-person shaped identity is imposed on a consumer. In my opinion, there lurk many problems under the cover of fashion and glamour: cheap (children) labour, ecological problems. I am for the ethical consumption, I believe that your external and internal consumption is what defines you. I admire a tribal approach to clothing, their hand-made pieces full of energy and personal mythology. It is crucially important for a person to re-create their own mythology instead of just following a model of life enforced by corporate companies. 8. The chicken or the egg? Perhaps the egg – our Planet and everything what‘s within. 9. What do you most appreciate in creation? Dedication, genuineness, work flowing from the depths of one‘s soul. 10. When creating, do you ask yourself, “Why am I doing this?” Yes. 11. Which is more important: idea or form? Process or result? A spontaneous shift from an idea to its material forms is of great importance for me. This process of transformation is the most significant one. The result is related to perfectionism, that‘s why I‘m interested in moving towards it, the more challenges, the better. Otherwise, one would soon be embraced by the boredom. It‘s the journey that matters, not the destination. 12. When is the best time to create? It‘s a mysticism. I never know when the moment comes. It simply strikes. From my own experience, however, I can tell it turns up at night. 13. Music. What‘s currently on your playlist? Dead Can Dance, Cocorosie, Diamanda Galas, Group Rhoda, ZazaZozo, Sigur Ros, Akua Naru. 14. What is the latest book you have read? Woman and Nature by Susan Griffin. 15. Who are the artists you admire? Ana Mendieta, Vali Myers, CocoRosie, Alejandro Jodorowsky, Pipilotti Rist, Lygia Clark, Jurga Ivanauskaitė. ... As well as people living in tribal societies. 16. What is the film you have seen and would undoubtedly watch once again? Ashes and Snow by Gregory Colbert. 17. How will a human look like in 2100? He will live in accordance with nature, with no harm, pollution or abuse done to it. He will recycle and provide new energy and meaning to ecology and durability. It is not a return to primitivism, it‘s a step towards freeing oneself from material addictions and practices of hoarding. I think there has to be a subconscious switch in people‘s mind, a search for a more meaningful existence. Clothes might disappear for good, which might mean a possibility to eventually be yourself, with no objects of power involved or attire declaring a certain identity. People might free themselves from the never ending shame of nakedness. 18. What does a person‘s body, outfit or looks reveal to you? Human body is like an outfit. The looks with no personal story or fantasy involved is terribly shallow, as if dead. I love people who play and experiment with their attire, looks or image, just like children. Hybridization and the appearance of new elements and sym bolistics are just great. I think the looks is important in our society, for it‘s (trade) mark which allows to recognize our ”kinsmen“ following a similar philosophy. 19. Why fashion? Fashion is just a tree branch, whereas I appreciate the whole tree. Looking from this perspective, a vast number of possibilities to perceive the branch and its different angles arises. 20. What does public acclaim or attention mean to you? It means I can get closer to other people‘s hearts. I hope to bring some more magic energy to their lives. 21. What are you most proud of? So far there is nothing I am truly proud of. 22. What is Lithuanian fashion/design like? I haven‘t been living in Lithuania for three years already, so I‘m not competent enough to answer the question. I think there is an element of copying, yet hopefully it will gradually grow into something more original. 23. What is the best piece of advice you have ever received? “Breathe”. 24. What is the dearest or the most important thing on earth? The Earth. 25. What is your favourite item? A drum. 26. What makes you laugh? Humanness. 27. What upsets you? Abuse and pollution of the Earth, human ignorance. Inequality. Human egoism and greed. Extinction of whales and other animals. Zoos and pocket-sized flats. Packaging, plastic bags and bottles... 28. Which websites do you check daily? I don‘t have ones, I don‘t really like surfing the web. I am old-fashioned, I like to get lost in the library. I try to spend as little time by the computer and online as. 29. Is there something you would never wear? I guess it‘s high heels and dress openly declaring vulgar sexuality. 30. What is the most unpleasant question? There aren‘t any.

unicorn is in the box

Aneta Mackonytė

Installation: “Beauty = Beast” 2014

In the exhibition Aneta Mackonyte rearranged a small room into a claustrophobic space filled with repetitive slowed-down voices, incenses, dimmed lights, plants and candles. Half of the room was filled with soil as a mark indicating where the weaver should not step; additionally, two red cinema chairs were put in front of the video works, which enabled a viewer to engage with and to experience the inconvenient universe oﬀered by the artist. The central role of this installation was played by two videos displayed on TV monitors arranged one on top of another. The first video explores a makeup application and a meaning of a red lipstick within society, fixed standards and a sexualized image of a woman. Questioning what is beauty and beautiful, playing with highly keyed symbols and transforming their meanings into a very personal ritual, colouring outside the lines, the artist is trying to break free from the norms imposed on a woman. The second video mimics the way our society deals with death and a concept of everlasting life. Surrounded by an artificial plastic setting, the sexualized subject is sitting in front of the camera and is repeating clichés of the everlasting stylish life. It is a parody of a human attempt to run away from death in order to stay forever young and beautiful.

unicorn is in the box

exhibition

unicorn is in the box

Performance Aneta Mackonyte Performance: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dream mappingâ&#x20AC;? 2014

Using non-verbal, one to one experience via senses, feelings, body and movement, Aneta Mackonyte presented a performance, creating a meditative interchange between her and the audience. Spectators were invited to interact with the artist while making marks on her dress. This interactive performance was an invitation for the audience to focus their mind, body and spirit on the present moment, and through a simple gesture to tap into collective unconsciousness and to become a creator of the new Myth.

unicorn is in the box

Workshop At the end of the Berlin Fashion Week a mask making workshop took place in the backyard of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Panke Cultureâ&#x20AC;?. Invited guests and random people could make a mask or a decorative paper bag for themselves using all the provided tools and materials. The workshop tried to draw attention to the mask phenomenon embedded in contemporary culture as well as its ways of transforming oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perception, identity, reaction and behaviour within society. The main goal was to invite people to tap into a creative process and openly manipulate their appearance neglecting beauty stereotypes. Have you ever noticed how many masks there are around us? The Mask, Ghostface in Scream, etc.) Adrian Wu etc.)

unicorn is in the box

ORGANIZATOR

SUPPORTED BY

SPECIAL THANKS TO

EDITOR / CURATOR ASTA *BŽENTYTĖ DESIGNER ASTA OSTROVSKAJA TRANSLATION RASA BENDORIŪTĖ

unicorn is in the box