a taste of az
the stories of arizona food & beverage
pizza to the rescue must-visit sushi spots shift kitchen & bar
renata’s hearth
mt. lemmon cookie cabin
pizza to the rescue
mekong plaza in mesa the churchill
a taste of az food & drink festival
more info! mark your calendars!
salt river fields on january 25, 2025
food | beer | wine | cocktails | music | & more
publisher’s note
As 2024 comes to an end, we near the 4th anniversary of a taste of az magazine (launched in January 2021) and the second annual a taste of az food & drink festival. Both of these are a huge accomplishment for us and our team, and we’re so excited to share it with you. With both celebrations quickly approaching, we want to take a second to say thank you to all of the lovely folks in the Arizona food and beverage scene, all of our advertisers, and our wonderful team of contributors. We also want to thank you, our lovely readers. Our magazine and content lie at the intersection of the people who we write stories about, the folks who read those stories, and the organizations that support our coverage. Cheers to all of those who fit in those categories!
our team:
publishing
writing
photos
design
Luke Irvin
Eric Walters
Alison Bailin Batz
Christina Barrueta
Marci Symington
Steven Larson
Isaac Stockton
Dena Roché
Luke Irvin
Grace Stufkosky
Isaac Stockton
Marci Symington
Paige Irvin
Emma Garcia
Renata’s Hearth
Written by: Christina Barrueta | Photographed by: Luke Irvin
At the Arizona Biltmore, Renata’s Hearth shares the story of a mythical adventurer who defies expectations and challenges traditions. Renata’s spirit is channeled through the resort’s fine dining restaurant and its hearth, which combines the elements of smoke and fire with bold flavors and vibrant ingredients.
It’s an ethos embraced by chef de cuisine Daniel Weber (pictured), a Kansas native with experience in top kitchens across the country, who has discovered a newfound passion. “When I came to Arizona, I didn’t really know much about the region,” he admits, “but learning new things and facing new challenges is how one progresses in their career.” And it was this very unfamiliarity that fueled his creativity. “Even though it was my first time with a Latin-focused menu, I've always loved Mexican food and its bold and spicy flavors,” Weber shares. “Working here has been an even better fit than I ever thought it was going to be.”
This approach is evident in Renata's Hearth's latest menu debut, which strikes a delicious balance between popular favorites and new creations. While Mexico's rich culinary heritage forms the backbone of the menu, Weber skillfully weaves in influences from
Spain and Central and South America. “Latin is a very large window of opportunity,” he explains as he describes Peruvian and Brazilian dishes he loves and ticks off favorite ingredients such as lime, dried chiles, habanero peppers, and aji amarillo.
Diners might start their culinary journey with crispy coxinha (Brazilian smoked chicken croquettes), snow crab claws gilded with jalapeño brown butter and Marcona almond crumble, or sea bass and blue crab ceviche (see on pg 8) bathed in passion fruit leche de tigre. “The ceviche will be on the menu for a long time because it’s been such a success,” says Weber. “We took it to the Taste of the Biltmore, USA Today Wine and Food, and the Devour food festivals and it was a big hit. We use colossal blue crab legs, pineapple, cucumbers, pepitas, pimentón oil, and habanero for some heat, so the dish is really vibrant and colorful.”
Craving some surf and turf? Order the Caledonian prawns enrobed in a rich smoked tomato sauce. Or, sink your teeth into the Wagyu NY strip steak encrusted in an umamirich medley of dried mushrooms, coffee, habanero chile and brown sugar. Main courses like Pollo Pibil showcase Weber's use of traditional techniques combined with his own creative flair. "We brine a half chicken for 24 hours, then apply a homemade achiote rub with annatto seeds, lime, garlic, vinegar, and a little habanero," Weber explains with evident passion for the process. “We let that marinate overnight, grill it, finish it in the oven for a nice crust, and serve it with guasacaca, a Venezuelan avocado salsa.”
Among the menu's newest additions is Weber's spin on moqueca, a Brazilian seafood stew. His prawn and sea bass version is sprinkled with a distinctive take on farofa
(traditionally toasted cassava flour) blending brown butter, panko, smoked cashews, and sesame seeds. And you’ll be just as wowed with its presentation in a covered cast iron crock. When the lid is lifted, smoke billows, setting the stage for a tableside pour of fragrant coconut-tomato broth.
But don’t forget to save room for indulgent desserts like the street corn panna cotta. “It was put together by our pastry chef and it’s so unique and flavorful,” describes Weber. “There are brown butter cake croutons, chipotle-lime meringues, micro marigolds, and a chocolate garnish. When I think about the story of Renata and making our own path, I think this dessert embodies that. Whenever anybody orders it, they're blown away.”
The elevated experience at Renata's Hearth extends beyond food, with a wine list and cocktail program that's equally impressive. Latin-inspired libations complement the menu, including El Matador (pictured above), a bold margarita with a split base of tequila and habanero-infused mezcal sweetened with hibiscus and pomegranate syrups and rimmed with black lava salt. The vibrant Cantarito is a union of blanco tequila with tropical pineapple and citrus garnished with Chamoy and the chile-lime punch of Tajin. For a sophisticated, smoky-sweet experience, the seductive Pica Fresa marries reposado tequila with Aperol, charred strawberries and spiced honey.
Weber's passion extends beyond the kitchen and into the heart of his team. He's quick to emphasize the importance of collaboration and shared creativity in Renata's Hearth's success. "It’s important to utilize your team's creativity and knowledge," Weber explains. “My team is full of great ideas and sharing those keeps them invested in what we're doing. The people we have around me have really helped us get to where we are now at Renata's."
Diners Choice 2024 by Opentable
MERCER’S KITCHEN RESTAURANT GROUP
Where Culinary Mastery Meets Sedona’s Breathtaking Views
Elevate your dining experience with the creations of award-winning Chef Mercer Mohr Indulge in an unparalleled culinary journey across our four premier Sedona restaurants, each offering its own unique flavors and ambiance From refined, contemporary dishes to mouth-watering classics, our restaurants are designed to satisfy every palate.
Mt. Lemmon Cookie Cabin
written & photographed by: Isaac Stockton
When one thinks of Tucson, or really the southwest as a whole, images of saguaros, dust, and lizards are most likely what comes to mind. It would be a stretch to think that a rustic log cabin amongst a grove of Aspen and pine trees would have any connection. Nevertheless, Mt. Lemmon Cookie Cabin at the top of Mount Lemmon is a well-known stop on the edge of Summerhaven for folks who escape the heat of Tucson by making the long drive up the hill. Sitting at a dizzying 7700 feet of elevation relative to Tucson’s 2389 ft, the green and woodsy aesthetic are a welcome relief in the heat of summer and an unexpected snowy retreat in the winter. It’s a bastion of seasons and variety in the otherwise consistent desert and evokes strong nostalgia of your best summer camp memories.
For those who haven’t made the drive up the south side Mt. Lemmon, it is a sublime example of the geographic and biologic wonder that is Arizona. The area is known as a “sky island” for its unique environment juxtaposed with that of the surrounding desert. As visitors climb in elevation they will go from ocotillo and saguaro to aspen and pines. There are a handful of restaurants at the top of Mt. Lemmon, yet the unique offerings of the Cookie Cabin make it stand out. A recent addition is a branch of the local chain Beyond Bread, but member of the Cookie Cabin founding family and manager Amara Zimmerman says the competition is of a friendly variety. “Oh no, it’s completely friendly. I mean, we even bring over our cookies at the end of the day that we haven’t sold sometimes. So yeah, it’s totally friendly.”
Part of what keeps the Cookie Cabin an integral part of the Summerhaven community is its history. Vic Zimmerman, Amara’s step-grandfather, opened the predecessor of the Cookie Cabin that went by Cabins and Cookies. “[Vic] actually started it in 1990. We used to have cabins, multiple rental cabins, as well as just the cookie shack. It was just a window where you walk up to and order cookies. We didn’t have anything besides cookies and drinks.” Amara remembers working at the shack handing out cookies with her grandpa and grandma who lived right across the way. The theme of family runs through every aspect of the establishment and is a core component of the day-to-day goings on. Samantha, Amara’s aunt, is the general manager alongside a smattering of other family like cousins, including Hillary, Amanda, Jessica, and Guillaiume, and Aunt Kate does all of the repairs and maintenance. Family is a key component of both the history and future of the Cookie Cabin.
The catalyst for the transition out of the cabin rental business was an unfortunate event in 2003. The Aspen Fire burned upwards of 80,000 acres and claimed 340 homes as well as the businesses. This tragedy altered the trajectory of many lives, but the Cookie Cabin would rise from the ashes and thrive. After surviving a second fire, the Bighorn Fire in 2020, they also managed to weather the storm of COVID-19. “I think us being on the top of the mountain in a remote location, people wanted to get away and be in nature. That attracted a lot of people that were down stuck in their homes. We’re also a family restaurant, which a lot of people were wanting to support. But I really think it was the location; it just gave everybody an escape from what was going on in the world.” The familial comfort of the cabin atmosphere is perfectly complemented by the comfort food on offer.
The key component of the Cabin’s success lies in its name: the cookies. There are several varieties on offer from the traditional Chocolate Chip, to the slightly different but wholly delicious Rachel, which is named after Amara’s mother. The Rachel is a scrumptious concoction consisting of coconut and butterscotch. The option to add another level of decadence by adding a scoop of ice cream on top is a saccharine indulgence that needs to be tried at least once. For those a bit more indecisive, the Cabin has you covered with a sampler cookie that has a little bit of each flavor on offer. The sampler consists of Chocolate Chip, Peanut Butter, Brownie, Oatmeal Raisin, White Chocolate Macadamia Nut, and the aforementioned Rachel. If your sweet tooth doesn’t make an appearance, the Cookie Cabin has a solid selection of pizza options as well as a family recipe for chili that is a growing favorite. A compelling facet of all the food is that it’s all made in house. “We used to not make everything homemade, and now everything is homemade. The cookies were always homemade, but the pizza crust wasn’t back then. So within the last few years, we started making the pizza crust and the sauce as well. We also recently brought back the beef and bean chili.” While it may still be a bit warm for the chili to take over, it is a welcome addition once sweater weather takes over.
The trek to get to the Cabin may be a bit daunting, but the escape into the cooler air with some tasty bites make the drive up and down worth it. For those outdoorsy types, there are a plethora of hiking trails at the top, including one that goes to a fire lookout tower. Making a stop at the Cookie Cabin to fuel up before a hike or as a reward for finishing one makes the Cookie Cabin a unique familyoriented fixture on Mount Lemmon.
Wipe Wipe
WHEELER
pizza to the rescue
written by: steven larson | photographed by: luke irvin
In the heart of Phoenix, a groundbreaking pizzeria is turning heads and making a difference. Pizza to the Rescue, located at Indian School & 26th Street, is not just another spot for a pie; it’s a heartfelt initiative combining delicious food with a mission to support animal welfare.
Owned by the passionate Hunter Rodgers, Pizza to the Rescue is more than a trendy new eatery. It represents a fusion of culinary excellence and charitable spirit. Partnering with the esteemed local organization Almost There Rescue, this pizza haven has embraced a cause close to many hearts in the Valley. With every pizza sold, 25% of the proceeds directly benefit this non-profit, which is dedicated to rescuing and rehabilitating dogs in need.
From the moment you step into Pizza to the Rescue, you’ll notice the thoughtful details that reflect Rodgers’ commitment to both quality and community. The restaurant’s interior strikes a perfect balance between rustic charm and contemporary design, making it a cozy spot for both casual dinners and special occasions.
But let’s talk about the food, which is where Pizza to the Rescue truly shines. The menu is a celebration of authentic flavors and innovative culinary techniques, extending far beyond traditional pizza offerings. Start with their exquisite Boquerones en Vinagre, a classic anchovy dish marinated in vinegar that is both tangy and refreshing. For a lighter option, the grilled beets paired with goat cheese salad offer a delightful balance of earthy and creamy textures, highlighting the restaurant’s commitment to fresh, often local ingredients.
The real star, of course, is the pizza. Each pie is crafted with precision and care, using only the finest ingredients. The pizzas reflect Rodgers’ dedication to authenticity while using as many local resources as possible or importing some of the finest. In addition to pizzas, Pizza to the Rescue boasts an impressive selection of housemade pasta, prepared fresh daily in their scratch kitchen. The pasta dishes here are designed to impress and satisfy.
What truly sets Pizza to the Rescue apart is its unwavering commitment to its mission. The partnership with Almost There Rescue isn’t just a marketing gimmick; it’s a core aspect of the restaurant’s ethos. By dining here, you’re not just enjoying
a great meal; you’re contributing to a cause that improves the lives of countless dogs. The cheerful atmosphere of the restaurant is a testament to the positive impact of this collaboration, with staff and patrons alike united in their support for animal welfare.
Hunter Rodgers’ vision for Pizza to the Rescue extends beyond serving exceptional food; it’s about creating a community space where people can come together, enjoy a meal, and make a difference. This unique concept is a win-win for both pizza lovers and animal advocates, making every visit to Pizza to the Rescue a feel-good experience. So next time you’re in Phoenix and craving a delicious slice, head over to Pizza to the Rescue. Your taste buds will thank you, and so will the deserving pups who benefit from your meal.
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mekong plaza in mesa
written & photographed by: marci symington
Mekong Plaza, located in a repurposed Target on the southwest corner of Dobson and Main Street in Mesa, has been the heart of Asian culture and commerce in the area since 2008. Chosen for its convenient freeway access, the location reflects the longstanding Asian influence in Mesa and is considered the catalyst for what has become known as Mesa’s Asian District—the state’s most extensive collection of Asian restaurants, grocery stores, and shops.
Mekong Plaza, along with H Mart—the Korean superstore chain out of New Jersey that opened in 2020—serves as a gateway to this vibrant Asian District that stretches south to another cluster of Asian businesses at Dobson and Southern. According to the City of Mesa, there are now more than 70 Asian businesses within a 2-mile radius of the plaza.
As one of the first Asian establishments in the area, Mekong Plaza stands as an anchor for the entire district. The plaza’s businesses include beauty salons, gift shops, and specialty stores offering everything from imported tea and Asian jerky to happy bamboo plants and lucky cats, all centered around the Mekong Market grocery store.
The dining scene is exceptionally bustling, and you will be hard-pressed to find a parking spot during popular weekend hours. The plaza’s growing popularity is evident in its ongoing $10 million, 35,000-square-foot expansion, which will bring even more options, including Haidilao, China’s largest hot pot chain. Curious to experience it firsthand, I embarked on a culinary journey across Asia, sampling Chinese, Vietnamese, Filipino, and Taiwanese cuisines, all conveniently located under one roof.
With nearly 20 dining options, the size of my stomach and budget precluded me from trying everything. So, I focused on finding a go-to dim sum restaurant that might evoke memories of my travels to San Francisco, so I started at the plaza’s signature restaurant, Mekong Palace.
Mekong Palace is a prominent tenant at the plaza, offering a spacious, well-lit interior ideal for large groups. The restaurant is renowned for its traditional dim sum, featuring options including steamed BBQ pork buns, shrimp shu mai, spareribs with black bean dumplings, and steamed chicken feet. Diners can select from a variety of freshly made items brought around the dining area on carts. The restaurant also offers delicacies à la carte, such as Peking duck served with green onions, plum sauce, and bao buns, and whole roasted pig (requires advance ordering).
Happy Bao’s is a popular Chinese restaurant specializing in handmade baos, soft, steamed buns that originated centuries ago in Northern China. The menu features a variety of baos such as xiao long bao, or “soup dumplings,” filled with pork, scallions, and chicken broth, as well as spicy chili dumplings and sheng jian bao—bread dumplings filled with a savory selection of vegetables, chicken, or pork, and pan-fried so that their sesame-crusted bottoms become crispy (seen on the following page). Happy Bao’s also offers handmade noodles and rice plates, including dan dan noodles and Hong Kong fried rice.
Sizzling House and Ramen, known for its sizzling cast iron platters, presents platters so hot they arrive with a protective ring to prevent burns. Diners choose a base of udon noodles or rice, accompanied by a protein along with shelled edamame, corn, and purple onions. The
protein is served with either black pepper or mushroom-based house sauce and topped with garlic butter. After mixing, the dish forms a delectable crust reminiscent of the Persian specialty tahdig. I was thankful for the ice-cold water jug and metal cups that tempered the heat of the dish and the AZ sun.
Coconut Jelly King specializes in coconut-based treats, particularly a coconut jelly resembling a custard. Served in a glass jar with a lid, the base flavor is plain coconut, with over a dozen mix-ins available, including fresh mango, pineapple, hazelnut-chocolate, blueberry, taro, and red bean. The shop also serves boba tea, crepes, and egg waffles.
Roll Avenue is a dessert spot specializing in rolled ice cream, a trend that originated in Thailand. To make this ice cream, a liquid ice cream base is poured onto a frozen metal surface, spread out thinly, and rolled into thin sheets before being scraped into delicate rolls. These rolls are then served in a cup and topped with a variety of ingredients, creating a visually appealing and refreshingly cold treat.
Tasty Pot is a popular Taiwanese hot pot restaurant known for its individual hot pot servings, allowing customers to customize their meals. The menu features a variety of broth bases and ingredients and diverse menu options such as spicy Szechuan, Taiwanesestyle, Korean kimchi, and more. Each hot pot comes with a mix of vegetables, proteins, noodles, and other accompaniments.
the churchill
written by: marci symington | photographed by: grace stufkosky
Located in the heart of downtown Phoenix’s Roosevelt Row Arts District, The Churchill is a vibrant space where dining, shopping, and socializing converge in a sustainable setting. Constructed from repurposed shipping containers, The Churchill supports small businesses in a modern space that prioritizes sustainability and community.
The Churchill houses ten independent businesses, including restaurants, bars, and retail shops, surrounding an open courtyard that is also used for events, live music, and art shows. The size of the containers naturally limit the businesses, aligning with the concept of fostering small enterprises. “It’s nice to see a business utilize just the space they have to construct the roots of their business before they go off and do their own brick and mortar,” explains The Churchill’s Director of Operations, Stephen Allen.
In 2018, developer Kell Duncan and former business partner Hartley Rodie opened The Churchill, aiming to create an incubator for small businesses. The intention behind such a concept is to offer low rent, with the idea that, in Allen’s words, “Rent is not a major part impacting your bottom line.” The architect responsible for this innovative space is Brian Stark, the head of Local Studio, who runs Sparkbox, a company that retrofits shipping containers into studio and one-bedroom living units.
Allen shares the philosophy behind its design: “A lot of the choices that were made in building [the Churchill] were with the thought of trying to reduce
environmental impact, so we’re using the shipping containers that were filling landfills.” Additionally, the architectural design is intriguing. Allen notes, “It’s fun to see a guest enter the Churchill for the first time…structurally it catches your eye. And it shows what you can do with shipping containers.”
There are diverse dining options, from gourmet pizza to craft cocktails and locally brewed beer. “We wanted to be a place where you could drink, eat, and shop. When selecting tenants, we try our best to have something for everyone,” shares Allen. The Churchill’s offerings reflect this vision with a mix of culinary and retail experience. You can grab a craft cocktail at So Far So Good or a local beer on tap at The Brill Line, indulge in gourmet pizza at Freak Brothers, or savor Hawaiian BBQ from Loco Style Grindz. For your sweet tooth, Scookie Bar serves up deep-dish skillet cookies, while Infruition offers refreshing smoothies and açai bowls. On the retail side, State Forty-Eight showcases Arizona apparel, Cayla Gray provides custom fragrances, and Neighbor Market
is a pantry and bottle shop. Stoop Kid rounds out the culinary options with its delicious burgers and bagel sandwiches.
At its core, The Churchill is designed as a gathering place, hosting various events, including yoga classes, art shows, and pop-up markets. The space is also available for private events, with flexible furniture arrangements and catering options provided by the on-site restaurants and bars. They can also arrange for DJs and other entertainment.
Looking to the future, The Churchill plans to expand the concept. Duncan and Allen have announced a partnership with the City of Peoria, where they have teamed up with Gavin and Lance Linderman, owners of Driftwood Coffee and Easy Tiger bar, for a project at Jefferson and 83rd Avenue called Jefferson House. “The city of Peoria is developing an entire block to focus on local, small businesses,” Allen shared, proving that The Churchill is a model for other communities. “I have always been a big fan of The Churchill and its roots. I like that The Churchill was founded with the idea of making Phoenix a better place. The goal is to build small businesses and help the area reach its full potential.”
shift kitchen & bar
written by: alison bailin batz | photographed by: luke irvin
Flagstaff has been known for many things over the years. Certainly, it is the proud home of Northern Arizona University. The four-season city also contains the world's largest contiguous Ponderosa pine forest. But Flagstaff as a preeminent U.S. food city? Thanks to epicurean entrepreneurs like Dara Wong, Flagstaff is very much earning acclaim on the national stage for all things food. And to think, Wong almost didn’t go into the culinary world at all!
Wong, a native of Colorado, grew up in a family of entrepreneurs, with both her father and oldest brother leading agriculture businesses. “I distinctly remember being in my early elementary school years and seeing the pride they took in being responsible for other’s livelihoods,” said Wong. “And while at that time I didn’t know I would go into the restaurant business, I knew that one day I wanted that same responsibility.”
Initially, Wong assumed she would find her way in business ownership, not the kitchen. The talented teen swimmer earned an athletic scholarship to attend the University of Denver after high school, where she studied hospitality and business while competing at a pre-Olympic level for the Division 1 school.
There was just one problem: once she started working in actual hotels, she hated it. “I dipped my toe in the hospitality pond while still in school, quickly learning that the hotel world was a bit more monotonous than I assumed it would be,” said Wong. “The only part I loved was talking to people, especially guests.”
Around the same time, Wong began cooking on her own, both out of interest and necessity, while coaching swimming, competing, and deciding her next move. With her degree in Business Management in hand, in 2009 Wong earned her first “adult” job.
“Nope, still not in the kitchen! I actually took a role with a climbing equipment company, but was getting more and more into cooking,” said Wong. “Completely unhappy with the corporate gig, I decided to change course completely in 2010 by enrolling in the Cook Street School of Culinary Arts in Denver. Yes, I was finally
getting into the kitchen.” Wong immersed herself in the program, quickly falling in love with the math and science of baking.
“I am dyslexic, so school could be hard for me, but not there. Everything made perfect sense. I found my place,” said Wong, who earned her first major culinary role at the Michelin Starred Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder. “It felt like I was taking a master class in baking and the business of owning a restaurant while there.” From Boulder, Wong would relocate to Vail, where she quickly became known as a premier pastry chef in town.
So, what brought her to Flagstaff? In 2014, THAT Place Projects was preparing to open Tourist Home Café, and Wong moved to the area to lead all things pastry for all
three concepts, a role that eventually led her into taking on administrative duties as well. Within a year, she was the Tourist Home general manager as well.
“With some experience under my belt, I began looking into opening my own concept with a partner, and things really started to come together when we found a cozy coffee shop space in downtown Flagstaff on the busy San Francisco Street,” said Wong. The duo re-imaged the space as a restaurant where people could gather in intimate alcoves, belly up to community seating spaces, or enjoy the action of the open kitchen from the bar.
“We knew we wanted our space to be interactive, so in addition to the open kitchen focused on shared plates and affordable twists on what many would call classics, with everything plated in such a way that it engaged folks in conversation,” says Wong, “We named our restaurant Shift because our goal was to shift expectations, both about food in Flagstaff and the concept of going out to a restaurant for a meal.”
Shift opened on April Fool’s Day in 2016, and guests quickly realized the concept was no joke. “To say we were overwhelmed with support, both from the local community and visitors from around the globe, is an understatement," said Wong. "In fact, it was the support that helped me realize my vision of true entrepreneurship when my partner left the business and I had to either shut down or take over all operations—while serving as a chef and our pastry lead—on my own.”
Determined, but admittedly a little scared, Wong jumped in headfirst, taking on the challenge like she did with so many swimming meets. The result? She successfully navigated the storm of the pandemic and
has stepped in as executive chef of the concept when required, all the while continuing in her daily operational role and as the queen of all things pastry.
Beyond that, Shift has earned a James Beard nomination, and in 2022, Wong began to expand her emerging empire with the opening of Oeno Wine Lounge just blocks from her flagship eatery. “Oeno is the Greek word for wine, and our selection is insane,” said Wong. “That being said, we also have an impressive array of wine-based cocktails, beer, and mocktails as well.”
The best part? “Folks who come in can also enjoy Shift as we created a program where guests may peruse our Shift food menu and order from the comfort of the wine bar,” said Wong. “Our team is able to spring into action, acting as your complimentary DoorDash so you can enjoy both concepts at once.”
Must-Visit Sushi Spots
wirrten by: alison bailin batz | photographed by: luke irvin & grace stufkosky
In its earliest form, sushi was developed as a means to preserve fish, and as recently as the 1800s, it was more or less a street food enjoyed primarily by Japan’s chōnin class, who started as commoners but grew over time to hold great influence in technology, art, and culture. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the humble cuisine began its ascension to a fine dining staple. Today, sushi and all of its iterations and variations, are enjoyed in both the fanciest of foodie outposts and at coziest of culinary nooks.
Uchi
While only open since February, Uchi (pictured below and right) is proving itself to be the sushi sensation of South Scottsdale. The concept is the brainchild of Chef Tyson Cole, a James Beard Award winner and American sushi master who apprenticed under iconic Japanese chef Takehiko Fuse and spent significant time living in Japan to hone his craft. The name is significant in that Uchi is Japanese for “home,” homage to the little red house where Cole developed what would become his signature non-traditional menu of Japanese specialties with Pacific Rim influences and ingredients from across the globe. When visiting his chic, modern eatery, expect a variety of hot and cool dishes including sushi, nigiri, sashimi, tempura, seaweed-wrapped makimono, and yakimono, which are dishes cooked under direct heat such as pan-fried gyoza. Can’t make it in? Uchi has also innovated takeout sushi boxes, one of which pairs exotic delicacies with caviar, potato chips, and crème fraiche.
Toro
Few are familiar with Nikkei-style sushi rolls, but after one visit to this North Scottsdale gem nestled into the TPC Scottsdale, aka home of the WM Phoenix Open, you will be hooked for life. Toro was developed by celebrity chef Richard Sandoval, a global pioneer in contemporary Latin cuisine. Its menu seamlessly blends Latin flavors with Japanese and Chinese-Peruvian influences, especially when it comes to the sushi. Each of the laundry list of offerings from the sushi menu are made in this Nikkei style. The word itself translates to emigrants and honors the cuisine that resulted from Japanese emigration across Latin America. Think traditional ingredients paired with rocoto, a small Peruvian pepper known for its burst of spice, and cancha, a Peruvian snack food made from large, dried kernels of a special type of corn. Given the eatery is connected to the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess, also expect some go-big-or-gohome offerings, notably a roll with foie gras.
Sandfish Sushi & Whiskey
The Melrose District welcomed Sandfish (pictured below and right), a magical mash-up of Scandinavian and Japanese cultures, in late 2022. It is helmed by chef Engin Onural, who is both recognized as a sushi master by Best Chefs America and previously represented the United States in the World Sushi Cup. Here, there is a distinct focus on sushi that combines traditional elements such as spicy tuna and crab with ingredients like black truffle zest, seared New York steak, and coconut flakes. As the name suggests, the eatery is especially adept at complementing the delicate flavors of sushi with the bold, smoky flavors of whiskey. For those who like a bit of booze, Sandfish has an outstanding lineup of cocktails and spirits. The list has a variety of flavors that will surprise, excite, and enhance any sushi offering here.
Roka Akor
Among the sleekest and sexiest of dining experiences in Arizona, Roka Akor is a showstopper for all of the senses. The fine dining dazzler has three separate kitchens to ensure its chefs may specialize and stay narrowly focused on their particular expertise, including a sushi kitchen. Open by design so guests may interact with the chefs and see them in action, expect sushi to be as visually appealing as it is fresh and flavorful. The chef’s selection of sashimi as well as the mind-bending bluefin tuna flight, for example, are plated using mountains of ice and decorated with edible flowers that take the entire order over the top. The chefs are clever in other ways as well, including creating a modern take on a taco by filling it with sashimi, avocado relish, and cherry tomatoes.
Sushi Friend
Uncomplicated and easy, like any true friend, this casual neighborhood option is a bit of a hidden gem. The unassuming restaurant in Phoenix where casual attire rules was named among Yelp’s top three U.S. sushi spots for 2023! The space is small by design without grand décor or specialty seating. In fact, it is so small most folks get their orders to go. The menu is exceptionally straightforward with a distinct focus on colorful platters of specialty rolls, basic rolls, nigiri, or a combination of many items. There are, of course, smaller options as well including combination selection and stand-alone rolls with everything from Australian yellowtail and bigeye tuna to king salmon and seared giant scallops. Oh, they also have a sushi cake! The eight-inch, circular platter with edible flowers required 24 hours’ notice to create, and is an edible work of raw fish art.
Harumi Sushi & Sake
An icon in Valley Japanese food for more than a decade, downtown Phoenix’s Harumi (pictured below) recently expanded to a new space and debuted a refreshed look. But, fear not, both the ultra-high-quality cuisine and surprisingly affordable prices are still the same. The team sources its rice, vinegar, and brown sugar directly from Japan, and use sea salt from Hokkaido. Fish is selected based on seasonal freshness and comes from diverse locations such as Mt. Fuji, Nova Scotia, Scotland, and the Pacific Ocean. And, in a surprise to many, Harumi does not employ an executive chef, instead rotating its resolute culinary team through the seven kitchen positions every three weeks, allowing them to gain experience in different areas such as fish cutting, sushi and sashimi preparation, and roll making. This rotation prevents monotony and ensures a well-rounded skill set.
Across the Pond
Tastefully understated with a mid-century modern vibe, Central Phoenix’s Across the Pond (pictured below) is in many ways a natural extension of the brand’s Asian-focused Clever Koi restaurant, which is located across the breezeway (or pond, metaphorically speaking) from this sushi hotspot. Open since 2018, the focus here is traditional Japanese sushi-making ingredients and techniques, with some modern as well as Southwestern twists where it makes sense. By way of example, they have a coffee-cured salmon nigiri that has been among the most sought-after items on the menu for years. And the handrolls? Have mercy! Insider tip: ask the expert-level mixology staff to pair a cocktail of their choosing with your order. They rarely miss the mark.
Mixologists’ Picks: Highball
Written by: Christina Barrueta | Photographed by: Grace Seckosky
In this issue, we’re shaking things up by swapping our usual chef’s picks to see where two cocktailprosliketodrinkanddine.
This year, Highball, the chic cocktail bar in downtown Phoenix, added two more notable distinctions to its growing list. Owner Libby Lingua snagged a Tales of the Cocktail Regional Spirited Award nomination for Top 10 U.S. Bartender of the Year, while she and co-owner Mitch Lyons, along with their talented crew, were recognized as honorees for Best U.S. Bar Teams - U.S. West.
Together, Lingua and Lyons have created an intimate oasis where exposed brick and a gleaming copper bar set the stage for their innovative cocktails. Their current menu leans into Asian influences, offering unexpected twists like the Tokyo Drift, a guava-laced margarita accented with togarashi and Japanese citrus, or the Land of the Mountains, reimagining the classic Daiquiri with melon liqueur, lemongrass, and tangerine.
This combination of creative drinks and a welcoming vibe is what keeps people coming back. “It’s a comfy, cozy neighborhood cocktail lounge where you can relax, whether you’re on a date night or hanging out with friends,” says Lingua. “Have a cocktail, something served neat from our great backbar selection, or even just a beer and a shot. We take the pretension out of cocktails and want everyone to feel welcome.”
Highball doesn’t just shine in its everyday operations; they’re also known for immersive popup events, hosting special guests and liquor showcases. This year alone, they welcomed guest bartenders from award-winning hotspots in San Diego, Chicago, and New York, just to name a few. “We like to go all out,” says Lyons. “When we host someone, we make Highball their home for the night. We change the music, lighting and décor to create a completely different atmosphere to highlight the guests and their cocktails.”
Want to know where these bar stars hang out when they’re off-duty? Lingua and Lyons share three of their favorite spots.
Lingua
Loves:
Glai Baan | 2333 E Osborn Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85016
Why: Cat and Dan are family to us. They’ve supported me and Mitch since back in our early UnderTow days and we’ve done several events with them. We’ve even had cocktails on our menu that were inspired by them, like Far from Home on our previous menu, fashioned to taste like their mango sticky rice dessert.
Favorites: I love everything there, but the dumplings and Wishing Star cocktail are my go-to starters.
Hana Japanese Eatery | 5524 N 7th Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85013
Why: I’ve been a regular for a long time. During the pandemic, and now still, I always get their sushi to go because their take-out experience is just as good as in-house. I absolutely love their food, and I could eat my body weight in sushi there.
Favorites: I love the classic staples, like pork gyozas, tonkatsu ramen and the uni shooters. And I always get their rainbow roll and add smelt roe. They used to be BYOB but now they have a great selection of Japanese beers, sakes, and whiskeys. I need to get back for the dine-in experience now that they offer cocktails.
Harvey’s Wineburger | 4812 N 16th St, Phoenix, AZ 85016
Why: I love that grungy—in the best possible way—dive bar atmosphere and, surprisingly, they have a great backbar selection too. You can get a neat pour of really great bourbon for a fantastic price, and their food is awesome as well.
Favorites: A patty melt with a neat pour of Elmer T. Lee or a beer like Coors Banquet or Dos Equis.
Lyons Loves:
Waamo | 5050 E McDowell Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85008
Why: It’s one of my favorite hidden gems, with Somalia-forward African cuisine and a little bit of Mediterranean. You feel like you’re in someone’s home, and I’m probably there once a week.
Favorites: I love the goat and they make an amazing lamb shank served over a mixture of noodles and rice. One of the coolest things is when you sit down, they’ll bring you soup and tea. The tea is absolutely delicious, with lots of African spices, and I always get another cup or two.
Taco Boy’s | Multiple locations in Phoenix & Tempe
Why: They have a few locations, but the one I frequent the most is at Roosevelt and 7th Street. They just crush street tacos with the high quality of their meat and freshness of their salsa bar. It’s my go-to spot whenever I host a pop-up—I take everyone there so we can all try a little bit of everything.
Favorites: As many tacos—like tripa, carne asada and pollo—as I can eat, and a Mexican lager, usually Pacifico.
JT's Bar & Grill | 4829 E Indian School Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85018
Why: I’ve always been a divey bar kind of person and a sports bar with good food always gets my attention. And without a doubt, I think they have the best wings in town. Never too fatty, always cooked nice and crisp, and the sauce is delicious with plenty of flavorful heat.
Favorites: Buffalo hot wings double-dipped, a beer and usually a shot of Jameson—because, why not?
southwest wine center
Written by: Dena Roché
Any wine lover who has savored a soulful Cabernet or been transported back to France with one sip of Burgundy has likely daydreamed about quitting their job to become a winemaker. Thanks to the Southwest Wine Center at Yavapai College, Arizonans who want to make the dream a reality can easily do so. Started in 2009, the Southwest Wine Center is the only such program in Arizona. It is the brainchild of the Verde Valley Wine Consortium and was born to fuel the growing wine industry in the state.
The Southwest Wine Center offers both an applied science degree in viticulture and enology, as well as certificates in enology and viticulture. “We’re one of only three junior colleges in the country that offers this comprehensive program,” said Paula Woolsey, who has been with the school since its inception and teaches the majority of the enology classes. The degree is designed to take two years, while the certificate programs are one
Photo Courtesy of: Tom Schumacher
year. Wine lovers can also take courses for personal enrichment, and there are several wine workshops offered to the community.
The programs attract a diverse student mix. According to Michael Pierce, the school’s director and the winemaker for the local winery Bodega Pierce, the average student age is 49. “Our oldest student was 80 and our youngest are in their early 20s,” said Woolsey. “We attract a lot of people looking for a career change. The program is very welcoming to people of all ages.” The school has a well-endowed, non-need-based scholarship program that Pierce urges prospective students to take advantage of.
The Southwest Wine Center curriculum focuses on practical, hands-on learning more than wine theory. This approach lets students experience all aspects of winemaking firsthand. “It’s an incredible learning lab,” said Pierce. “If you want to learn how to grow grapes and make wine, this is your place.”
The instructors are open to all questions and ideas and give students transparent insight into a career in the wine industry. In addition to winemaking, alumni have gone on to become cellar masters, wine tour operators, and winery owners. Some notable graduates
Photo Courtesy of: Tom Schumacher
include Julia Dixon, owner of 1764 Vineyards, Bree Nation, assistant winemaker at Page Springs Cellar, and Tom Messeir, assistant winemaker and cellar master at Deep Sky Vineyard.
Both the certificate and degree programs are done online and in person. According to Pierce students need to be on the Clarkdale campus about one-third of the time. “Some students from Phoenix commute for the day, others stay in hotels or at the college’s RV park,” he said. “The college is building student housing for our destination programs that will open next fall.”
To give students hands-on experience the school boasts a 13-acre vineyard planted with white and red grape varietals that thrive in Arizona. The vineyard gives students the chance to apply what they learn about soil science, water and pest management, and participate in a full harvest cycle.
Once the students harvest the grapes, they have the opportunity to make their own wine in the school’s full-production winery. The winery was repurposed from an underutilized indoor racquetball building on campus and houses a fermentation room, two barrel rooms, and a tasting room. For students who are taking the program with an eye to a job after graduation, Woolsey says there are often more jobs available than graduates to fill them.
Throughout the years, wines produced by students at the Southwest Wine Center have wowed judges at local competitions. In 2019 the school’s Viognier was named Best In Show in the azcentral Arizona Wine Competition, and in 2018 its rosé won Best Rosé in the Growers Cup. This year, alumni Julia Dixon at 1764 Vineyards took Best Red in the Arizona Governor’s Cup and the Southwest Wine Center took five silver medals and two bronze medals.
The community has the opportunity to taste all the student’s wine at the college’s tasting room. It’s open by reservation from Thursday to Sunday. “The school’s evaluation has been so fun to watch,” said Woolsey. “I run several big wine events and now they’re filled with wineries and winemakers who graduated from Southwest Wine Center.”
Photo Courtesy of: Tom Schumacher
PRESENTS
The Life Achievement Celebration 2024 The Life Achievement Celebration 2024
Join us for an extraordinary evening featuring cocktails, entertainment, a live auction, and an exceptional dining experience crafted by your favorite Food Network
Chopped Champions from Arizona.
Joining our own Jennifer Caraway will be: Adam Allison, Roberto Centeno, Tom D’Ambrosio, Simona Lauren, Peter McQuaid, and Cory Oppold.
The Joy Bus is a nonprofit organization founded in 2011 by award-winning chef, Jennifer Caraway. The sole purpose of TJB is to relieve the daily struggles of people with cancer by delivering a fresh and healthy meal with a friendly face. Our mission is to improve the lives of our recipients through good food and company.
https://thejoybusdiner.ejoinme.org/LifetimeAchievement2024
Frank’s Restaurant
written & photographed by: Isaac Stockton
There are few places left in Tucson that have the same familial draw as Frank’s Restaurant. With the slogan “Eat and Get Out” written on the staff shirts, you’d think there would be some element of hostility or passive aggressiveness, but it’s very much the opposite. Every server has an affable nature and an unrivaled sense of urgency without being pushy. “Are ya ready or do you need a minute?” Server Andrew asks each new person after they find their seat. You won’t find a host waiting to seat you but rather you’ll get a friendly “sit wherever you want, we’ll come find you.” The food comes out so fast you’d think the cook is a mind reader and knows what is about to be ordered, but every dish is made with calculated speed and precision that comes from years of skilled spatula use.
The history of the restaurant has a pretty deep lore. Initially, the restaurant opened in the early ’70s and was started by a married couple, the eponymous Frank and Elizabeth. While the name “Frank’s” remained, the doors went through a cycle of being closed, reopened, and trading hands for almost a decade. In 1982, Frank’s re-opened with current owner and Tucson native Mark Smith at the helm. He has been a fixture in the space for 40 plus years now. Frank’s was a double restaurant of sorts at one time, however, the night side of the establishment known as Francisco’s De Noche was an unfortunate casualty of COVID. But fret not, some of the more popular entrees from the night shift made their way into the Frank’s menu such as the Chorizo and some of the offerings under the “Mexican Goodies” portion of the menu.
Frank’s has been a Tucson greasy spoon staple for the better part of 40 years, in the best of ways. Located on Pima and Alvernon, it’s about as centrally located as it gets. Although to be fair, as the city has gained a more urban sprawl, the true center of town has shifted a bit east. The history of the restaurant is nailed and taped to the walls as decor, with a smattering of kitschy nicknacks. Complementing the casual ambiance, the food and drink are served in and on humble settings. Rather than bespoke coffee mugs and fancy flatware, the “fresh from the cupboard” completely random coffee mugs make it feel like you’re in your family kitchen. The regulars dot the diner-style bar and as they take a seat, the servers give them a friendly wave.
The unassuming ambiance is matched by the no-frills menu with a couple of stand-out options. The contemporary breakfast staples of omelets, pancakes, and Belgian waffles are on offer with sides of bacon, sausage, eggs; the usual breakfast plate accouterments. Though being in the Southwest, it would be some kind of cardinal sin to not offer some pretty stellar Mexican options like the Michoacan-style enchiladas. All the food is prepared on a flat-top griddle behind the diner-style bar in a perpetual state of controlled chaos. Every so often the gas burner gets ahold of an errant food scrap and causes a bit of a pyrotechnic display.
This diverse, welcoming, and high speed operation is a testament to traditional diner ethos that is an increasing rarity in the modern culinary scene. While the food may be utilitarian and as far from pretentious as it gets (see their other motto, “Elegant Dining Elsewhere”) its charm is undeniable and is filling and fresh. The prices are more than reasonable and are just another brick in the foundation that keep this pillar of the Tucson food scene solidly in place.
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