a taste of az magazine summer 2024

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a taste of az

the stories of arizona food & beverage

forêt la frida pretty penny

pretty penny

kettle heros

la frida

chef’s picks | mark tarbell

mocktails in phoenix

forêt

where’s the arizona wine?

presta coffee roasters

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publisher’s note

Chefs want us to love their food; it’s the driving force behind their culinary passion. The rebellious “I don’t care what people think” chefs are rare. Watch any episode of “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives” and you’ll see chefs eagerly watching Guy Fieri enjoy their dishes, craving that sense of approval. This desire extends to showcasing Arizona’s culinary scene, long overlooked in the food and beverage world. Recent years have shifted this perception, with global legends like Chris Bianco and Christopher Gross making waves. On June 8th, Chef Rene Andrade of Bacanora in downtown Phoenix won the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Southwest, alongside nearly a dozen other nominees from our great state. Arizona’s culinary talents are finally getting the recognition they deserve, proving that our food scene is a force to be reckoned with.

our team:

publishing

writing

photos

design

Luke Irvin

Eric Walters

Alison Bailin Batz

Christina Barrueta

Marci Symington

Steven Larson

Isaac Stockton

Dena Roché

Luke Irvin

Grace Stufkosky

Isaac Stockton

Marci Symington

Paige Irvin

Emma Garcia

pretty penny

In January, Pretty Penny opened on Roosevelt Row, bringing a more culinaryfocused concept to the celebrated Pour Bastards Hospitality team. For this newest destination, founders Sam Olguin and Brenon Stuart, known for their hit cocktail spots Killer Whale Sex Club, Disco Dragon, and F.Y.P.M., have joined forces with chef Marcelino “Mars” Ramos and hospitality director Ivan Herrera. Together, they’ve created a downtown hotspot that blends Ramos’ globally inspired cuisine with Olguin and Stuart’s acclaimed craft cocktails.

For Ramos and Herrera, alumni of Chef Gio Osso’s Virtù restaurants and owners of Carvão Catering, the opportunity to collaborate on this new venture was more than just a logical choice–it was a dream long in the making. “Sam and Brenon’s drinks are next level, as is their hospitality, and we all align in our way of thinking,” explains Herrera. “While we loved working with Gio at Virtù, it’s cool to have Mars be able to take the reins and express himself, and it’s really fun to watch.”

The team’s shared vision encompasses every detail of their hospitality. “I love the way that food brings people together,” says Ramos. “That has been my motivation from the beginning; it all comes down to the guest experience. When I think back to the special dining moments that I’ve had, the ones that stay with me, I want to provide that same feeling for our guests. Collectively, that’s the focus for everyone at Pretty Penny. How do we create the most memorable experience? How do we give guests the experience we look for when we go out to eat?”

As director of hospitality, Herrera underscores this ethos: “I want to make sure that everyone has the best time they possibly can, from the second they step through the door to the second they walk out, and that starts with a warm greeting and a smile.” This spirit of hospitality manifests itself in unique, thoughtful touches throughout. From 5-6pm, bottles of wine are half off “for those who come in that first hour,” explains Herrera, and caviar service is always offered at cost “to make it more accessible to people who haven’t tried it before.”

“I follow a simple formula,” Ramos says. “It’s to show respect in everything that we do, and hopefully it shows in the guest experience.” One standout example of his culinary approach is the octopus tostada, born from a trip to Mexico City. Ramos recalls his visit to Contramar and the tuna tostada crafted by renowned chef Gabriela Cámara. “I thought, what if I did an octopus tostada?” he explains. That spark of inspiration led to a dish that has quickly become a Pretty Penny signature. “The key is to get as much flavor into every dish as possible,” says Ramos. For this tostada, that philosophy starts with a crispy blue corn tortilla generously

topped with tender chunks of octopus tossed in a savory conserva. This kaleidoscope of flavors melds shallots and garlic with the earthy tones of oregano and achiote bolstered by the smoky warmth of chili powder and smoked paprika. Dollops of avocado puree and a spicy drizzle of salsa macha blending black sesame seeds with garlic and habaneros provide the finishing flourishes. But Ramos doesn’t stop there. “I wondered, how can I elevate the tostada and make it easier to eat?” he says, and thus sections the tortilla before frying. “It’s so smart,” adds Herrera. “It looks like a normal tostada when it’s on the plate, but when you pick it up, you realize it has already been cut into perfect bites.”

On the other hand, Pretty Penny’s roast chicken entices guests with a reimagined presentation of a classic comfort dish. Order this, and you’ll be rewarded with a juicy half chicken perfumed by a brine of brown sugar and red miso accented with herbs, citrus zest, and warming spices of cinnamon and allspice. The final, indulgent touch? A glistening baste of nutty brown butter. Accompanying the bird is a bowl of creamy pasilla pepper polenta topped with a confetti of roasted garlic, chile, and parsley, and “Chinese broccoli that might just steal the show,” says Ramos with a laugh. “We cook crumbled Chinese sausage with julienned shallots and garlic in olive oil until it starts to get a little crispy and add white wine and a good amount of black pepper to balance out the sweetness of the sausage. Then we finish it with sliced Fresno chiles and Maggi seasoning which adds a little smokiness; it’s the perfect condiment and the bridge that connects everything. It’s all about the balance.”

Providing the counterpart to Ramos’ cuisine is a concisely curated wine list and bar program featuring the exceptional cocktails that have established Pour Bastards Hospitality’s reputation. The menu is divided into descriptive categories of Fizzy, Refreshing, Silky, and Boozy. Here you’ll find stunners such as the Strawberry Rhubarb Daiquiri forming a clarified union of fermented rhubarb and strawberry with lime peel-infused rum, embellished with a frothy cap of strawberry Greek yogurt. Or, try the Red Apple Old Fashioned combining red apple juice, genmaicha tea-infused bourbon, and toasted sticky rice syrup, garnished with a shower of orange-scented chocolate.

“People seem to love what we’re doing, and we want to deliver that experience every single day,” reiterates Ramos. “It’s a challenge we all enjoy. Each day brings a new opportunity to create memorable moments for our guests, and it’s exciting to be able to keep proving ourselves.”

Kettle Heroes

Kettle Heroes, a small-batch artisan popcorn company based in Tempe, exemplifies the entrepreneurial spirit and community dedication of its cofounders, Rudi and Aaron Sinykin. Their journey in the food industry began after college as Subway franchisees. However, in 2012, they made the bold decision to sell their stores and reinvest in concepts they believed could make a significant difference in their community. As Rudi recalls, “We were tired of being in a system where we felt like we weren’t really making a difference in the local Arizona community.”

In 2012, the Sinykin brothers started Devoted Guardians, a home care agency, with the goal of improving the lives of seniors and individuals with disabilities. Nine months later, they launched Kettle Heroes as a food truck at the weekly Gilbert farmers market. As their popularity grew, the Basha family—regulars at the farmers market—suggested in 2015 that they start selling packaged kettle corn at Bashas’ and AJ’s grocery stores. This opportunity led to rapid growth and the opening of a factory in Tempe in 2017 to meet demand. Kettle Heroes expanded from local grocery stores to national chains such as Whole Foods across the Greater Southwest and Midwest regions, with plans for future availability in Costco. With flavors inspired by the Southwest, Kettle Heroes has carved a niche in the market, offering a range of nine savory and sweet options: Original Sweet & Salt Kettle Corn, Sea Salted Caramel, Prickly Pear, Hatch Green Chile Cheddar, Aged White Cheddar, Guajillo Chile Lime, Porcini Truffle Cheddar, Cinnamon Sugar Churros, and Popcorn Zen.

The Sinykin brothers’ journey was not only inspired by a desire to create delicious snacks but also by a deep-rooted commitment to service. This commitment was not just a business decision but a personal one, rooted in their family’s history of military service. Their grandparents, as first-generation immigrants from Eastern Europe, served in the Second World War, while their father served in the Vietnam War before earning a law degree and practicing law. These experiences instilled in them a strong sense of duty and sacrifice, laying the foundation for their ethos of giving back to the community.

The name “Kettle Heroes” highlights the values that enabled their relatives to make a significant impact on their community. “We are about supporting everyday heroes; heroes put service before self,” affirms Rudi. This commitment led them to partner with the Pat Tillman Foundation. Pat Tillman, a graduate of Arizona State University and a professional football player for the Arizona Cardinals, left his sports career to enlist in the US Army following the September 11 attacks. After Tillman was tragically killed in Afghanistan by friendly fire, the Tillman Foundation was created by his wife and close friends to provide educational scholarships for higher learning beyond the college level. Spouses of service men and women are also eligible to apply.

Each Kettle Heroes bag features the story of a Tillman Scholar, showcasing their dedication to service and learning. This approach not only raises awareness but also contributes to the Foundation’s mission of supporting higher education. Since they began partnering with the Tillman Foundation, Kettle Heroes has consistently allocated a percentage of sales to the scholarship program, demonstrating their ongoing commitment to supporting veterans and their families.

Currently, each of their nine flavors highlights a select Tillman Scholar. Soon, they will implement a new approach where each bag—regardless of flavor—will feature a different scholar. This change will enable Kettle Heroes to celebrate and share the stories of more scholars. By rotating the stories on their packaging, they aim to engage customers more deeply and shine a spotlight on the unique contributions of each scholar. Rudi says, “Kettle Heroes is trying to celebrate the men and women that are putting the overall community before themselves. We just want to continue to tell their stories.”

"From the canyon comes a new spin on pure refreshment."

La Frida

Situated smack dab in between the hustle and bustle of downtown Tucson and the burgeoning new growth of the easternmost part of town, lies a relatively new restaurant that is a beacon of gastronomical delight. While the heart of Tucson may lie downtown and on 4th Ave, La Frida is a testament to how good food can thrive outside of the usual cultural hub.

La Frida sits amidst a small industrial district but step inside and you will seemingly teleport directly to a lavish, bustling cantina in a cozy Mexican ciudad. Visitors are greeted by warm lights, dark wood, exposed brick, and a glorious mural of the namesake of the restaurant, Frida Kahlo.

Since opening, the door has barely been able to close as every table gets turned and re-seated within minutes. This business can be attributed to an abundance of word of mouth and the very evident passion behind the plate. “We don’t do any kind of advertising and don’t really do any social media yet, its all been word of mouth.” Owner Claudia Vindiola is an exceedingly hands-on owner who can be seen nightly running food from the kitchen and enthusiastically engaging with the clientele.

The focus of the restaurant is presentation and every aspect of the dining experience is doted on. Each plate would be at home in a most prestigious plating competition, where even the chips and salsa get a lovely treatment. “I feel like what sets me apart is really the creativity of it all.” Claudia says. “I was a [hair] stylist for 23 years so I have gotten to experience firsthand my creativity with my customers and clients. Sometimes people come in and they don’t even know what they want and I get to create beautiful artwork. I feel like I get to apply that very much to our plates and the presentation that we give to everyone.”

All of the plates on offer are edible art, and one that stands out has to be the cake which has taken our team by the heart and the tastebuds. Every dish is painstakingly made based on Claudia’s vision, and without a purely culinary background fusing that self-taught ethos with the other chefs’ need for scalability was a bit of a challenge. “We have four chefs in the back. I’m very particular and I usually like to do things in a very specific way. Sometimes it doesn’t really make sense to others. They’re

very questionable on my perspective, but we’ve made a really good team and have been able to understand each other to bring some of my ideas and dreams to life.”

Inside the high-end Mexican dining aesthetic lurks a very welcome approachability that makes simple dishes sing and complex dishes operatic. The absolutely divine cocktail selection adds a full choir that calls on all who dine in to sing their praises. Claudia takes pride in the prep as well, seeing as she has made it a scratch kitchen. “So everything has been from scratch. Every day we would make [our food] just like I would make food at home. I used to make two cups of rice at home and now I make like a whole sack three times a day. Everything is made with a lot of love and care every single day.”

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Chefs Picks | Mark Tarbell

Mark Tarbell’s fascination with cooking began at the age of 14, with Jacques Pepin’s “La Technique.” This book wasn’t just a read. It was a launchpad, propelling him towards the goal of owning his own restaurant. By 18, he had completed a culinary apprenticeship at the Sonesta Hotel in Amsterdam, Holland, and went on to attend the prestigious École de Cuisine La Varenne and l’Academie du Vin in Paris, France. In the ensuing years, he continued to hone his wine expertise and sharpen his culinary skills, spending time with some of the world’s best winemakers and sommeliers and working in Michelin-starred restaurants. At just 23, Tarbell found himself in Arizona at The Boulders Resort as the youngest food and beverage director of a five-diamond resort. And in 1994, he realized his teenage dream by opening Tarbell’s and quickly racking up national accolades, including a nomination for a James Beard Award for “Best Chef: Southwest” and two inductions into the Arizona Culinary Hall of Fame.

In the decades since, Tarbell has curated an extraordinary CV. He’s made his mark in the world of television as a Food Network Iron Chef winner as well as host of PBS’s Emmy award-winning “Plate and Pour” and “Check Please Arizona.” A modern-day Renaissance man (he is also a talented musician and an honorary Commodore of the United States Coast Guard), Tarbell is just as committed to giving back to the community. He has raised funds for charities such as Phoenix Children’s Hospital and Hospice of the Valley, served on the boards of the Phoenix Theater and Phoenix Art Museum, and is currently a National Board Member for C-CAP, a life skills initiative that prepares underserved youth for culinary careers.

He’s also channeled that boundless energy into expanding his culinary empire. In addition to his eponymous restaurant, there’s T’s Tavern, The Wine Store, T’s Catering, The Tavern at Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport, and Cha Cha Mouche wine club. In 2025 Tarbell will debut Cultivate and The Vault Speakeasy at The Bond in Phoenix. Despite his numerous accomplishments, Tarbell remains grounded. “I really feel that we have to continually earn the trust, respect, and love of the people that come to our restaurants,” he says. “It’s important for us to show everyone the ultimate hospitality and do our best to exceed their expectations.”

All these commitments keep him busy, so it’s the meals at home that he cherishes most. “I have to say, my favorite dishes are anything my wife or kids cook,” notes Tarbell. “My most joyous times are those spent with my family.” But he also recognizes the many talents in a city whose culinary landscape he helped shape. When asked to name some of his favorite spots,

he responds with a laugh. “That’s a tough question to answer. I love sushi and restaurants like Roka Akor, Uchi, and Nobu; Nobu Matsuhisa is a friend. Vincent’s and The Mick Brasserie are also great. But honestly, there are hundreds of amazing places. So many people are doing wonderful things.”

Here, he shares three:

Hai Noon

7017 E McDowell Rd, Scottsdale, AZ 85257

I met Nobuo Fukuda back in the ‘90s when he was at Yamasaka with Fred Yamada, and have always loved what he does. He is so classically trained and has a lot of authority to create his own interpretation of Japanese food. I’ve had some of the most memorable omakases over the years with him. He’s brilliant, a tremendously nice person, and just so talented.

Christopher’s at Wrigley Mansion

2501 E Telawa Trail, Phoenix, AZ 85016

I first met Christopher Gross back in ’86 or ’87 at Le Relais at Pinnacle Peak. Bill Nassikas and I were both trained in Europe and when we were at The Boulders, it was the only restaurant at that time close to us with that level of quality. Christopher has done so many things in his career, but always at that same level of craft. I think we’re all blessed that Christopher’s was built for him to have a stage to show everyone what he does.

501 E Roosevelt St, Phoenix, AZ 85004

I really think it’s great, and I like Sunny [Santana] a lot. The thing I love most is when he does tongue–it’s probably one of the best in the state. He doesn’t always have it, but when he does, he makes the best lengua tacos I have ever had.

To learn more about Mark Tarbell, tune in to A Taste of AZ Podcast’s Episode 31.

Mocktails In Phoenix

Over the past few years, there has been an explosion in non-alcoholic drinks on menus across the Valley, offering spirited – but not spirited – combinations of flavors, textures, and garnishes once pretty much solely limited to traditional cocktail options. Here are some well-worth sipping on all summer long:

32 Shea

This trendy café and restaurant – complete with a secret garden-style patio that warmly welcomes pups –now has four mocktails on its menu, each focused on marrying fresh fruit juices with herbs, cooling vegetables and a kiss of soda water or ginger beer for added zing. Guest favorites include the Rosemary Hussey, which brings together rosemary-infused simple syrup with lime juice and soda water, and the Nashville Nectar, a dizzyingly delicious combination of vine-ripened summer strawberries, which are muddled to order, as well as citrus juice, and ginger beer.

Fairmont Scottsdale Princess

Now through Labor Day, the Scottsdale Princess is celebrating “Summer at the Princess” with a resortwide summer camp theme across all of its public spaces as well as weekly fireworks, dive-in movies, fishing derbies, interactive games, crafts, and a full menu of mocktails available at each of its six sparkling pools. Of note is the Garden Party, which highlights Seedlip Garden 108, a non-alcoholic distilled spirit made with peas and a slew of herbs including rosemary, thyme and spearmint. It is paired with syrup that has been enhanced by almonds, which ramps up the sweetness, as well as lemon juice for acid, Fee Bros Celery Bitters for balance, and Fever Tree Elderflower Tonic for herbal effervescence.

Marcellino Ristorante

The Italian fine dining icon in the heart of Old Town Scottsdale now features two seasonal NA cocktails in the Rosemary Mint Lemonade and the Mango Hibiscus Spritz. The lemonade certainly has its share of freshly juiced citrus, but also rosemary from chef Marcellino Verzino’s personal garden, mint, house-made syrup, and Panna Italian spring water, while the Mango Spritz is a tropical vacation in a glass with hibiscus syrup, mango nectar, and Fever Tree Club Soda.

Sicilian Butcher

Among this ever-expanding brand’s mocktail options is a stunning aperitif, which is traditionally a spiritinfused beverage served before a meal to stimulate the senses and prepare the tastebuds for the culinary journey ahead, in the NA Pimm’s Cup. It substitutes the traditional gin-based liqueur in the build with Giffard Aperitivo, which has Campari-like notes of bitter orange, gentian root, and spice. It makes for a dreamy pairing with the rest of the ingredients, which include honey, strawberries, and lemon juice as well as a garnishment of mint and cucumber for aromatics.

Maple & Ash

Each of Maple & Ash’s five mocktails are made with premium non-alcoholic liquor alternatives, curated to assimilate the flavors of traditional cocktails. The Like a Virgin and Lavendar & Luxury offerings, for example, feature CleanCo alcohol alternatives. Like a Virgin boasts Clean T tequila alternative, which is sugar-free with notes of blue agave and sweet melon. It is paired with orange oil, lime, jalapeño and zesty Tajin, giving a margarita vibe. Lavender & Luxury is more like an upscale martini with lychee, lavender, lemon juice and either Clean T gin or vodka alternative, topped with a luscious foam. Broken Promises is another banger, shining a light on Bittermilk No. 6 Oaxacan Old Fashioned cocktail mixer, which is made with Mexican chilies, cocoa nibs, and spices. It is paired with a botanical alternative to alcohol with notes of Bergamot oranges and a non-alcoholic white vermouth.

Sanctuary Camelback Mountain

The Paradise Valley resort was an early adopter of non-alcoholic options at its eateries, iconic Jade Bar, and across its pool and spa spaces. For the summer, the crowd favorite is the Blackberry Basil Smash. Inspired by the colorful and bountiful flavors of a summer garden, it combines sweet, juicy muddled blackberries with the earthy, herbaceous notes of fresh basil as well as ginger-infused syrup made in house, and jalapeños for spice. It is finished with lemon juice, which enhances the sensationally sweet heat.

UnderTow

The sky is the limit when it comes to non-alcoholic offerings at both UnderTow’s Phoenix and Gilbert locations. The experiential bar has a staff of professional mixologist that are so well-trained that they can make virtually anything on the fly sans spirits based on guest preferences. Of course, there are predeveloped options on the menu as well, with one of the most intriguing in Anchors Up. It features both non-alcoholic takes on Jamaican run and Londin gin made from a variety of teas. They are combined with chartreuse, strawberry, coconut, ancho chili, lemon, and pineapple for the ultimate in tiki-style indulgence.

Platform 18

Like UnderTow, the team at Platform 18 are also masterful mixologists who may very well just ask the guest’s favorite flavors and create something custom to their personal tastes. However, there is a mocktail on the current menu called Eliza’s Hymns that especially pleasant and perfectly layered with an array of gorgeous flavors. A wild recipe that works on a wow level, it features red mango tea as well as the bar’s own house N.A. London-style dry gin and N.A. Aperol-style spirit. The medley of complex ingredients are paired with Makrut lime, spiced pineapple, ginger, watermelon puree, beets, lemon, and yuzu. The kicker: it is served with a guava-infused shortbread cookie on the side for added visual, aromatic, and palate appeal.

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Forêt

Talk about a story that is truly all in the family.

Forêt FLG is a lauded, French-inspired café in Downtown Flagstaff that recently earned executive chef and co-owner Sam Greenhalgh a 2024 James Beard Award nomination for best chef in the Southwest. They may have opened in 2021, but the story that brought Sam and his family to northern Arizona, and ultimately to open the restaurant, starts more than 30 years earlier.

Natasha Greenhalgh—Sam’s mother—grew up in California, where her father owned restaurants. As a young adult, she began working in them, serving in a variety of roles including server, host, and bookkeeper. Once she started her family, the restaurant business took a backseat, as did California. When her oldest child, Jake, was 2, the family relocated to Gilbert. After putting down roots, the Greenhalgh family would welcome another son and a daughter, Sam and Billy, soon after, and Natasha would get into real estate.

Clearly restaurants run in the family blood, however, because from a young age, Sam was obsessed with the Food Network—especially loving Jamie Oliver and Ina Garten. Sam continually told his mother that he would be a chef when he grew up. By the time high school came around, he was doing double duty attending traditional classes as well as a culinary program through the East Valley Institute of Technology, where he was classically trained in French cuisine. Beyond that, Sam got a job as soon as he was old enough at the casual fine dining hotspot of the time, Noca.

At Noca, Sam feels he learned how to avoid bad habits that sometimes get in the way of young chefs, and loved mentoring under chef Adam Brown. He would move on from Noca to Clever Koi, eventually earning a role as executive chef and opening a location in Gilbert, funny enough after he relocated to Arcadia. He would also hone his skills at FnB, Tratto, and North, before reaching a crossroads. By this time, Sam had been working 80hour weeks for years, and while he loved cooking, he was ready for some balance.

So, in 2018, he changed the course of his entire life by up and moving to Flagstaff, as much to escape the harsh summers in Phoenix as to be close to hiking trails,

outdoors, and greenery in every direction. In Flagstaff, he took a position at Brix, a popular eatery known for its locally sourced ingredients and seasonally changing menu. Sam eventually transitioned to bar manager to better understand the front of the house and business of running a restaurant so he could prepare for one day owning his own concept.

In 2021, while still in the heat of the pandemic, Sam started thinking about relocating yet again, but fate stepped in. A friend reached out to him with information on a real estate listing in the area—a one-time coffee shop—that would be the perfect place for his first restaurant. Intrigued, Sam called his mother with the details. Soon, she was en route up north to check it out, assuming she would be up and back home in Phoenix in short order. Except she fell in love with Flagstaff as fast as Sam did, so she decided to move up north as well and enter into business with her son.

By August 2021, Forêt FLG was born. Ever the family affair, even the name was thanks to a family friend, Mona, who came up with it as it translates to forest in French. Sam initially planned to do more of a dinner spot, but given the space was a coffee shop prior it just made sense to pivot to a French-inspired café focused on breakfast, brunch, and lunch. Fortunately he inherited a massive barista station, gorgeous pastry cases, and a small-but-mighty kitchen.

The menu at Forêt can be described as thoughtful takes on classic brunch dishes highlighting fresh and quality ingredients. You may have come to expect dishes like an egg and cheese croissant, granola with oats, or a croque madame on breakfast menus, but Forêt manages to elevate the typical fare. Take the breakfast burrito. Eggs and peppers are to be expected, but the addition of pork cheek brings flavor and character. The lunch menu starts at 11am, and while small, it brings a few heavy hitters to the table. The smash burger and porchetta sandwich show the versatility of the kitchen at this lowkey eatery.

The concept truly brought Sam back to his roots, and the overwhelmingly positive response has certainly backed that up. When visiting, expect clean, gorgeous flavors and simplicity, but of course a few guilty pleasures on the menu as well. And the coffee program? It is among the best in the state, thanks to the third family member on the team.

As Sam and Natasha started preparing the restaurant for its opening, Sam’s sister Billy—a master-level barista who worked for years at LGO in Arcadia—took an interest as well. A month after opening, Billy was up in Flagstaff as well and leading the program to its current glory.

That just leaves Jake then, right? He went the computer software route, so works with far different ‘bytes,’ but—of course—he developed the brand’s website!

What’s In You?

Available June 2024 in Arizona

Distributed by Hensley Beverage Company

Where is the Arizona Wine?

Why aren’t more Arizona restaurants serving Arizona wine?

For decades farm-to-table has been a mantra in the culinary world. Chefs and foodies clamor for local ingredients and purveyors, so why doesn’t that same mentality translate to grapes? Arizona has over 120 wineries, but only a handful of local restaurants are putting these homegrown bottles on their wine lists. Why hasn’t vineyard-to-table caught on in the Grand Canyon State?

“We’re baffled by it,” said Scott Stephens, co-owner of Beckett’s Table, a Phoenix restaurant with strong Arizona wine representation. “Restaurants support local farmers, butchers, and dairies, but it seems to stop there.”

The modern winemaking era in Arizona only dates to the 1980s, and it took winemakers time and experimentation to learn what varietals thrive here and how to coax greatness from the grapes. Now, with more knowledge and mature vines, the wines produced in Wilcox, Sonoita and the Verde Valley can stand up against wines from California, Italy, or France.

Many restaurants have limited real estate on their wine lists so they stick to tried and true regions and brands. “We don’t have a lot of customers in tune with local wines. When the market isn’t embracing it and you have limited buying power you have less allocation for local,” said Chef Christopher Gross (pictured), owner of Christopher’s, which offers a selection of Arizona wines on its massive wine list.

While diners might not be familiar with Arizona wines, according to Pavle Milic, owner of Los Milics winery and co-owner of FnB, it’s up to restaurants to educate the guest. “Way back when people didn’t drink rosé, we told them why they should drink it,” he said. “I took a valuable business lesson from Bonnie Raitt when she said, ‘Let’s give them something to talk about.’ The fun part of Arizona wine is that it opens up a conversation with your guest.”

It’s a conversation that Scott Stephens and his wife Katie (pictured below), the sommelier at Beckett’s Table, have had since 2010 when the restaurant started its Arizona Wine Sundays, with local bottles offered at half price. “Our guests really like Arizona wines,” said Stephens. “It’s easy to curate a wine list of brands people know, but the younger generation likes to explore wines and dive deep. They want the road less traveled, the new kid on the block and a unique story, and Arizona wine is all that.”

But according to Mladen Kuljanin, director of restaurants at The Westin Kierland Resort & Spa, they’ve had a different experience. The property’s new restaurant, Faro & Brag, doesn’t have Arizona wine on its list because the former concept, Nellie Cashman’s, featured a list filled with Arizona bottles, but they found needed a backup list of California, Oregon, and Washington wines. “Our guests were looking for something they knew and were afraid of trying Arizona wines,” he said. “We tried so hard to educate them but they were still hesitant to try the wine.”

According to Steve Chucri, CEO of the Arizona Restaurant Association, winemakers need to work on creating awareness of their wines. “A wine list is a tight dance card,” he explains. “To get on the list winemakers need to knock on more doors and get restaurateurs and sommeliers to try their wines.”

Arizona wines are arguably more expensive and harder to source than big brands with national distribution, but that doesn’t mean they can’t be part of a successful restaurant. “I’m not here to tell anyone how to operate their business,” said Milic. “I’ll just tell you what you’re missing out on by not offering Arizona wine.”

Two months after Pavle and his team opened FnB, it caught the attention of a New York Times writer because it was a local restaurant embracing local wine. At the time the most famous farm-to-table icon, Alice Waters, wasn’t even serving California wine at Chez Panisse.

“We didn’t showcase Arizona wine as a business decision, but because it felt right,” Milic said. “Fifteen years later it’s the gift that keeps on giving. I find that there’s nothing but upside for an operator both in terms of keeping dollars in the state, [and] being part of a community and having a new story to tell. Why wouldn’t you carry Arizona wine?”

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Presta Coffee Roasters

Tucson is known for its rich cultural heritage and scenic landscapes, but it also boasts a collection of gastronomic points of interest. If you’re looking to chow down on some of the best food the US has to offer (as denoted by the UNESCO City of Gastronomy distinction), it stands to reason that finding a quality cup of coffee may also be on your radar. Presta Coffee Roasters shines as a beacon for coffee enthusiasts with their exceptional specialty drinks and locally roasted beans for their brews. Presta Coffee is a cornerstone of Tucson’s coffee culture, offering a unique blend of quality, community, and craftsmanship.

Presta was founded by Curtis Zimmerman, who is a passionate coffee connoisseur with a vision to create a coffee shop that both serves outstanding coffee and the community. The name “Presta” is inspired by the presta valve, which is a kind of bicycle valve stem that reflects Zimmerman’s love for both coffee and cycling. This merging of worlds fits perfectly with their two downtown locations. The spot on

9th Ave is located just off of Historic 4th Ave and surrounded by various bike routes. The 9th Ave location is a good mix of shaded outdoor seating and cozy indoor bar seating. The wood, light colors, and bike accouterments that adorn the walls of this location match the aesthetics at the other two.

Arguably the more bike-centric location is inside the Mercado San Agustin, which is also home to another A Taste of AZ Magazine alum Agustin Kitchen. There are always a handful of kitted-out bicyclists occupying the plant-filled bar or open and bustling seating area. They can testify to the quality of the coffee, the tasty morsels from Houldens Rise Above bakery, and the lovely crossroads of coffee and biking which the establishment rides on.

At Presta Coffee, their quality is peerless. The team across all locations meticulously sources beans from reputable farms around the globe, ensuring that each cup is not only delicious but also ethically sourced and

produced. Their commitment to sustainability and fair trade practices is displayed in every cup, making Presta Coffee a favorite among socially and environmentally conscious consumers. Presta Coffee’s menu caters to a wide range of tastes and preferences. Whether you are a fan of a classic espresso, a smooth latte, or a refreshing cold brew, Presta has something to satisfy your coffee cravings.

Presta also offers a selection of teas, pastries, and light snacks, all curated to complement their coffee offerings. One of the most stand-out features of their menu are the seasonal drinks on rotation. Of the beverages currently on offer, the Desert Sage is the most popular as of this writing. Another classic is their cold brew and cola combination which is one of our personal favorite coffee concoctions ever.

Beyond serving great coffee, Presta Coffee Roasters has deep ties in the Tucson community. They host events, collaborate with local artists, and support various community initiatives, making Presta more than just a coffee shop. It’s a place where community spirit is fostered and coffee connections are brewed to last.

For those in Tucson or planning a visit, Presta Coffee is a mustsip destination for the caffeineminded. With multiple locations across the city, including their flagship shop on 2502 N. 1st Avenue and their bustling

downtown spot on 100 S. Avenida del Convento, great coffee is always within reach. Presta Coffee Roasters encapsulates the essence of Tucson’s dynamic and welcoming spirit. It’s a place where quality, community, and creativity converge, offering an unrivaled coffee experience that leaves a lasting impression. Whether you are a local or just passing through, a visit to Presta Coffee is sure to be a highlight of your Tucson adventure.

Learn More at www.azwater.org

PHX Beer Co. is proud to announce their new partnership with the AZ Water Association. Through 2024, a portion of proceeds from every Zanjero Juicy Ipa sale will be donated to the AZ Water Association to aid our Arizona Water workers with continued education and professional development. Water is the life blood of a brewery, and we hope our efforts will raise awareness on the importance of Arizona water conservation and management to ensure we have access to clean, usable water for many years to come.

m o o n p i e p i z z a

written: steven larson
photographed:
luke irvin

Moon Pie Pizza & Patio, Phoenix’s newest pizza spot, is bringing a new and fresh vibe to the old spot that used to house Teddy’s Preserve. Located in the heart of Phoenix on the northeast corner of Central and Roosevelt, Moon Pie Pizza & Patio is introducing a not-so-common pizza style to the valley; the ultra-thin, crispy, square-cut Chicago-style tavern pizza.

The central Phoenix area is already filled with some of the state’s top-tier pizzerias, with Bianco, Cibo, Via Della, and Il Bosco. What sets Moon Pie apart from those other pizzerias in Phoenix is its dedication to the art of Tavern Cut Pizza. Unlike the conventional triangular-cut pies, tavern-cut pizza is characterized by its square or rectangular-shaped slices and thin and crispy crust.

Inspired by the classic taverns of yesteryear, Moon Pie owners Steve Coburn and Matt Fulton went on a research and development trip of a lifetime. The duo flew into Milwaukee and road-tripped their way to Chicago eating their way through some of the area’s finest tavern-style pizzerias. Like true explorers of their craft, they would not disclose the amount of pizza they consumed. However, they shared with me the stories of the openly friendly local business owners they met along the way who were willing to share tips and tricks of the trade that would ultimately help the two thrive in bringing authentic tavern-style pizza to the Valley of the Sun.

the menu

The pizza menu itself is loaded with fire pizzas. While they do feature traditional pizza toppings, there are several pizzas on the specialty pizza menu that are sure to satisfy any fan of spicy foods. My favorite was the hot honey pizza that featured Soppressata, Calabrian chilis, pickled red onions, and hot honey.

Aside from pizza, the menu features a typical list of salads, traditional Italian sandwiches, and one appetizer you do not want to miss out on, the ricotta-stuffed, prosciuttowrapped, hot honey-drizzled, jalapenos!

Moon Pie also offers a build-your-own pizza option, allowing customers to customize their pie with a plethora of toppings. But Moon Pie is not just about pizza – it’s about creating memorable experiences and fostering a sense of community. The pizzeria hosts regular events and gatherings, from live music nights where patrons can come together to bond over their love of great food and good company. Whether it is a family dinner, a date night, or a casual hangout with friends, Moon Pie offers the perfect setting for any occasion.

the space

Moon Pie Pizza & Patio, as owner Matt Fulton put it, “There’s no way to hide it. We’re located in the lobby of an office building”. However, as a consumer, I can tell you he is being modest, and with one step inside the space, you will see what I mean. Upon entry, you will see a generous-sized dining area featuring flexible seating, a lounge area, and a small game area featuring pop-ashot and ski-ball. The friendly L-shaped bar that seats about a dozen is tucked away just around the corner from the dining area. The outside patio area is impressively sized. Large shade trees cover the comfortable outdoor seats, cornhole boards, and mobile bar.

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Page Spring Cellars

Page Springs Cellars is a boutique winery situated along the scenic Oak Creek in Cornville, nestled within Arizona’s Verde Valley American Viticultural Area. Established in 2004 by the visionary winemaker Eric Glomski, whose family ranks among the pioneering wineries in Arizona, Page Springs Cellars has become a sanctuary for wine enthusiasts and nature lovers alike. The winery is renowned for its exceptional Rhône-style wines and offers an unparalleled visitor experience, combining top-notch wines with the natural beauty of the region.

Eric Glomski graduated from Prescott College in the early 1990s with a degree in riparian ecology. While inventorying perennial streams in the Prescott National Forest, he stumbled upon some wild apples and decided to make wine from them, an experience that changed the course of his life. According to Brandi Corley, Director of Marketing at Page Springs Cellars, the wine created a “liquid gate” where he traveled back to the moment in time when he picked the apples. “He could smell the river; he could smell the vegetation. He could remember the things that were around him that were elevating his

senses by drinking this wine,” Corley explains.

Before founding Page Springs Cellars, Glomski honed his winemaking skills at David Bruce Winery in Paso Robles, California. With this experience, he returned to Arizona, driven by a vision to create a unique wine culture in a region with a lesser-established wine industry. Says Corley, “It was Eric having a vision and seeing it through.”

The winery’s location occupies prime land along Oak Creek, with Page Springs—a natural artesian spring—running the length of the property. This spring provides vital water for everything from irrigation to drinking water, truly serving as the “lifeblood” of the

vineyard. The unique terrain and soil conditions, influenced by the nearby shield volcano House Mountain, create an ideal environment for growing grapes, akin to the famed Rhône Valley in France. “I think people often mistakenly think that grapes require a lot of water, when in fact they are a very drought-tolerant crop that is well suited for an arid environment like a high desert that we are [located] in,” Corley explains.

Page Springs Cellars cultivates 15 to 20 varietals on its 35 acres, producing nearly 60 different labels annually. This diversity reflects Eric Glomski’s passion for experimentation and creativity in winemaking. “The Arizona wine industry is still very young. We are still doing a lot of trial and error to see what works best here [in terms of exact varietals],” Corley notes. This willingness to innovate keeps the winery’s offerings fresh and exciting, drawing visitors back year after year.

Page Springs Cellars offers a unique visitor experience that showcases its commitment to quality and sustainability. The entire winemaking process, from handpicking and harvesting the grapes to processing, aging, and bottling the wine, takes place on-site. This integrative approach allows visitors to witness the journey from vine to glass, making their tasting experience even more special. As Brandi Corley puts it, “Our ability to offer a tour of the vineyard, the winemaking facility, and the cellars, and then invite guests to taste the wine that’s being processed below them while overlooking the vines is what sets us apart.”

Visitors to Page Springs

Cellars can easily spend a full day exploring and enjoying everything the winery has to offer. Corley recommends starting with lunch and wine tasting in the tasting room or opting for a picnic lunch along the creek. Next, the 60 to 90-minute estate tour is particularly educational, covering the history of the area and the winery. Throughout the tour, there are opportunities

to taste the wines. After the tour, visitors can relax on the creek deck overlooking Oak Creek, indulge in birdwatching, or hike the trail to the Page Springs fish hatchery, where the spring originates. To cap off the day, a dinner paired with their exquisite wines offers a perfect conclusion to the visit.

As a celebrated name in Arizona’s burgeoning wine industry, Page Springs Cellars represents the fusion of passion, nature, and community. “People visit Oak Creek and the Verde River to birdwatch, hike, and mountain bike. Not only can we provide a place for people to enjoy those various things, but on top of that, we provide an experience that’s pulled from the landscape, placed in a bottle, and shared with all,” says Corley.

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