PIEVE A CASTELLO
ieve (pr: ‘pea-yay-veh’) a Castello is an ancient, historically and architecturally important, complex of buildings, situated in idyllic Tuscan countryside, between Florence and Siena in central Italy.
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5th century BC alabaster bust of a goddess excavated during building works. The site is believed to have been an Etruscan temple.
The large, isolated ecclesiastical buildings, an Augustinian canonry, were constructed to accommodate the high volume of early medieval pilgrims and other travellers on their way to and from Rome. Manuscript of the route of the Via Francigena, recorded in 990 AD by Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury and Chancellor of England, during his return journey from Rome.
Nicholas Breakspear, an Augustinian Canon and the only English Pope (Adrian IV 1154-1159), was among the canonry’s benefactors.
Before 20 years of restoration….
Christopher Whinney receiving the Conservation International and National Geographic ‘World Legacy Award’ for Heritage Tourism from Queen Noor of Jordan, at National Geographic, Washington DC.
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WHAT IS IT? The buildings, on a fortified site, are set around a central courtyard, and date from 600-750 AD, when, using ancient foundations, the site was developed to provide overnight accommodation for the increasing number of travellers on the Via Francigena, the early medieval ‘main road to Rome’.
700 - 1400 AD As a thriving Augustinian canonry, with extensive lands and 33 smaller dependant canonries, it welcomed (literally) millions of travellers over the centuries, including recorded visits by Popes and Emperors, on their way to and from Rome.
PERFECTLY PRESERVED The canonry was abandoned in 1400 AD, but has remained in an outstanding state of preservation, with all its architecturally important buildings intact. Its large protoRomanesque, basilica-style church, is a rare survival. Its early 8th century arcaded octagonal baptistery, is the largest and finest of only three buildings of this style and period remaining. Today, after 20 years of restoration, winning a ‘World Legacy Award’ for Heritage tourism, ‘a Castello’ again welcomes travellers as a licensed Residenza d’Epoca (historic building accommodating guests), and perhaps Europe’s oldest ‘hotel’! 3
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Room 1: Large, first-floor room with writing room, bath & shower (double/twin)
Room 3: Large, second-floor room with unique shower room (double/twin)
Room 4: ‘Cosy’ room on second floor with four-poster bed, bath & shower (double)
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Room 2: Large, second-floor room with writing room, bath & shower (double/twin)
ROOM WITH A VIEW
Room 5: Former dovecote on second floor with spacious shower (double)
Room 7: Courtyard room with bath, shower and side door to garden (double/twin)
Room 8: Courtyard room with bath, shower and side door to garden (double/twin)
There are 10 bedrooms, originally used for multiple-occupancy by early medieval travellers. In a protected building of this antiquity, every room is different, each with unique features. All bedrooms have private ensuite facilities (with bath/shower or shower), sofa, writing desk, fridge-bar, TV, cupboard with drawers and safe, and views of the central courtyard and open countryside.
Room 9: Charming, corner courtyard room with shower (single room, French-sized double bed)
Room 10: Cosy courtyard room with shower (single room with single bed)
Room 11: Courtyard room – with writing niche, shower and 8th century apse (!) (double)
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RELAX & ENJOY
Pieve a Castello, with its country setting, ancient buildings and tranquil atmosphere, is an ideal place to relax. There are comfortable indoor seating areas as well as outside in the courtyard and on shaded terraces.
THE POOL The (50x25 ft) pool, lined with travertine (marble), has salt filtration that gives the water a ‘silky’ feel with soft reflections.
…& BEYOND You can wander freely in the country* – where there is much interesting wildlife, including deer, (shy!) wild boar, porcupines, hares, polecats and tortoises. Over 60 species of birds, frequently seen, include two species of eagle, several species of falcon (including peregrine), four species of owl, golden orioles and a cacophony of nightingales from spring to mid-summer. *WHAT TO SEE & DO page 15. WHEN TO GO page 16.
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MUSIC...
There is a well-stocked library with many books about the area, its art, architecture, history, food and wine, as well as light reading; a wide selection of recorded music (CDs) and a high-quality sound system – with perfect acoustics. The Proto-Romanesque church, with its baroque interior, also has ‘perfected’ acoustics, recording facilities, and a fine Bösendorfer concert grand piano. Every Friday evening there is a classical concert in the church, followed by a gala dinner.
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BOOKS
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F O O D & W I N E 12
The excellence of Tuscany’s famous cuisine depends largely on the quality of ingredients. To ensure the ingredients are of the highest quality Pieve a Castello has gardens that provide fresh, organically grown vegetables, fruits, herbs and salads to the kitchens each day. The chef is actively involved with the planning and production of produce from the gardens, to ensure a year-round supply. The chef also works ‘out of season’ to provide ‘in-house’, conserved ingredients such as cured olives, bottled tomatoes, numerous jams and sauces etc. (and even liqueurs!). Traditionally important features of the regional cuisine also include a wide variety of local, high-quality lamb, beef and ‘free-range’ pork; as well as game from the extensive forests: wild boar, venison, pheasant and
pigeon. The area is also renowned for its delicious local pecorino (sheep’s) cheeses, a wide range of Tuscan beans and pulses, and wild mushrooms including porcini and truffles. The Pieve chickens provide excellent eggs. Si mangia bene! Local wines, to complement the local cuisine, include many of Italy’s ‘great reds’ – from Chianti, as well as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino (‘Italy’s most expensive red wine’!). There are now, also, some very successful local white wines from enterprising producers, using local grape varieties as well as the eponymous Chardonnay and Pino Blanc. Pieve a Castello carries a carefully selected stock of the area’s best wines – among the best in Europe – with at least three different wines served each evening.
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WHAT IS THERE TO SEE? Pieve a Castello, situated between Florence and Siena, is the perfect location from which to explore one of the world’s richest areas of cultural Heritage, with some of Europe’s finest and best-preserved medieval and Renaissance towns and villages, and over 60% of the greatest works of Art in the Western World within 35 miles. 4
Each week has a theme and schedule of excursions to visit outstanding features of the region.
WALKING & CYCLING Whilst the diversity of sightseeing opportunities is of an incomparably high standard – so, too, are the opportunities for exploring the area on foot. 8
ATG footloose
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ROUTE BOOKLET
PIEVE A CASTELLO
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A legacy of centuries when the bustling Via Francigena carried thousands of travellers daily to and from Rome, is a network of ancient routes that fan out from Pieve a Castello. These routes, once used by travellers and traders, are now paths and tracks, ideal for walking. They lead through vineyards, olive groves, meadows and forest to iconic destinations such as Siena, Monteriggioni and San Gimignano. A substantial booklet with over 200 miles of self-guided walks from Pieve a Castello (durations 1-7 hours) is part of the information pack provided to each guest. A range of local destinations can also be reached by cycle along quiet country gravel roads and tracks.
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Local walks Duccio's Maesta Monteriggioni Il Palio in Siena Etruscan marvels Romanesque Sant'Antimo 15th century frescoes at… …Monte Oliveto Maggiore
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Medieval San Gimignano Botticelli’s Primavera Castello di Celsa Book of independent walks Siena's iconic Duomo Hilltop towns Abbey of San Galgano Descending to Florence
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WHEN TO GO... Pieve a Castello, situated at a height of 231m/756ft, is enjoyable to visit at any time of year (see weather chart): Winter (November-February) is memorable for its clear, star-filled nights, sunny days, and occasional snow or sharp frosts sparkling white across the Tuscan landscape. Spring flowers appear in March, and by early April there are lady orchids in meadows around Pieve a Castello; swallows return to nest in beams of the loggia, and nightingales begin their day and night serenades – in the company of over 60 different species of birds, including golden orioles. In May the ancient forests are carpeted with pink cyclamen, and the scrub and meadows burgeoning with flowers including orchids. By June use of the swimming pool is ‘in full swing’ (until mid-October), fireflies flash in the cool night air, and a flush of fertility envelops the countryside. July and August, the ‘festival season’ in nearby medieval hill towns and villages, are the warmest months, bringing evocative early-morning mists, warm days with cooling breezes, and cool, clear nights. The pool is irresistibly inviting. September and most of October remain pleasantly warm. This is harvest time: grapes are ripe in the vineyards, and from narrow, medieval streets come scents of fermenting wine, whilst the local cuisine is enriched with wild boar and other game, and wild mushrooms from the forests. But whenever you decide to go, you will experience a unique insight into the area, its countryside and cuisine; its art, architecture, history, culture and heritage – and its great legacy to Western Civilisation.
WHAT IS INCLUDED? Your stay at Pieve a Castello will be on a ‘house-guest’ basis. All service, meals, wines, drinks and snacks are included. In addition, for those booked onto a scheduled trip, programme or course, everything specified in that particular itinerary is included (e.g. all transfers, scheduled visits, entrance tickets, excursions and guides etc.). 16
WHAT TO EXPECT Mornings at Pieve a Castello can be as relaxed as you like, although for those electing to participate in a scheduled activity or excursion, can expect to depart at around 9.00 am. Breakfast is served from 7.45 to 11.00 am – with cooked breakfast available between 8.00 and 9.00 am. Lunch, a buffet with local specialities, is served on the lower (covered) terrace between 1.00 and 2.00 pm each day, whilst those out on a scheduled excursion will enjoy a celebrated ATG picnic. For snacks and drinks, each room has a fridge-bar with bottled water, soft drinks, beer and light snacks. There is a Guests’ Kitchen with coffee, tea, a selection of fruit and home-made cake or biscuits to enjoy at your leisure.
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Pre-dinner drinks are served from 7.00 pm, followed at 8.00 pm by dinner in the arcaded octagonal former baptistery, or ‘under the stars’ in the courtyard. Evening meals comprise four courses of traditional and classic Tuscan cuisine, with fresh produce from the organic vegetable garden, and fine wines. After-dinner coffee, teas and liqueurs are served in the library or on the adjacent terrace.
FIND OUT MORE www.pieveacastello.com • Make a booking on-line • Scheduled trips: itineraries, dates, prices & availability • Diary, news & views • The day’s menus and wines • ’Recipe of the week’ at Pieve a Castello • Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) • Private bookings for groups of friends/family, weddings, conferences etc.
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Pieve a Castello, Strada di Pieve a Castello, 53035 Monteriggioni (SI), Italy
www.pieveacastello.com