Athens City Guide 2012 by Athens Voice

Photo VANGELIS KORONAKIS

Dear friends, As you all know, Greece is going through one of the most difficult periods of its modern history. The state and its citizens have been caught in the middle of a global economic crisis and radical changes are now required in every aspect of life and public management in order to safeguard its position, firmly within the family of democratic and prosperous nations. It is a very hard task but as the long history of this country shows, it is achievable. Greece has been through wars, occupations and national disasters and always survived and bounced back. The majority of its citizens are, once again, determined to work hard to this direction. Athens Voice, the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading weekly free press

and its staff, belong to this majority. Against the fierce economic crisis that has hit the Greek media industry, we have produced this guide to share our inside knowledge of our city with its visitors. And try to show them that for all the fiscal and economic deficits they hear about, this city has also a very important surplus: its culture. As one walks on these same soils where democracy, philosophy, science and art have been flourishing for thousands of years, one can put things in the right perspective and realise that the current difficult situation, no matter how serious it seems, is nothing more than a moment in time... Enjoy your stay

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_3

Publisher Fotis Georgeles Editorial Consultant: Stavroula Panagiotaki

Editorial Director: Angeliki Birbili

Editor: Vangelis Koronakis Art Director: Konstantina Vlachopoulou Sub-editor: Konstantinos Tzikas IT Manager: Vaios Syntsirmas Editorial Team: Yannis Nenes, Dimitris Mastrogiannitis, Nenela Georgele, Lena Chourmouzi, Panagiotis Menegos, George Dimitrakopoulos, Dimitra Triantafyllou, Takis Skrivanos, Makis Milatos, Zizi Sfyri, Maro Zina, Georgia Skamanga, Dimitris Karathanos, Giannis Dimopoulos, Elisa Synadinou, Marina Markantoni, Konstantinos Samaras,Harris Markakis Copy Editor: Dimitra Grous

Advertising Director: Louiza Nathanail Advertising Manager: Nikos Tsouanatos Key Account Managers: Veroniki Haritatou, Anastasia Bafouni Direct Market Manager: Vassilis Zarkadoulas Direct Market: George Apergis, Ioanna Bousgou, Dimitris Kalamaris, Nontas Dabanis Financial Director: Efi Mourtzi Accounting: Sotiria Psichogiou, Aspasia Hovarda An annual publication of Athens Voice S.A. Harilaou Trikoupi 22, 106 79 Athens-Greece Editorial: tel (+30) 210 3617360, fax(+30) 210 3632317 Advertising: tel (+30) 210 3617530, fax (+30) 210 3617310

www.athensvoice.gr Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

e-mail: info@athensvoice.gr Copyright ATHENS VOICE 2012

SE RECYC L

COVER ARTIST

Thodoris Bargiotas was born in Athens in 1982 and was raised in Tennessee, USA. He is a graduate of Law School, University of Athens and has a Master’s Degree in European Intellectual Property from the University of Glasgow. He works as a lawyer and graphic artist and is currently preparing his first graphic novel, titled “Pernilongo”.

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Contents 06 _ 08 _ 16 _ 18 _ 20 _ 24 _ 28 _ 30 _ 34 _ 38 _ 44 _ 48 _

Foreign Friends This is Athens 2012 Walk of the town 5,000 years of history in two pages Famous Greeks Neighbourhoods of Athens Park life Historic buildings Gateways to a glorious past Where history lives on... Acropolis Museum Summer cultural events

56 _ Exit past, enter future 60 _ Hospitable Athens 64 _ Restaurants 90 _ Greek delicatessen 92 _ Get a nightlife 100 _ Euro 2012 102 _ Dive in live 104 _ Gay Athens 2012 106 _ Shopping Athenian style 121 _ Family fun 124 _ Day trips 132 _ Take the tram to the Med 138 _ Thessaloniki 142 _ Greek islands

Th s gu ide is alsoia v onlineaailable www.at t h and as ensvoice.gr app on an iPad iTu store. nes

152 _ Books, films and music with a Greek theme 154 _Tour your way around Athens 156 _ Public transportation in Athens 158 _ Maps 162 _ Metro

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_5

FOREIGN FRIENDS

Secrets and wonders By Antonio Ferrari

or me, Athens is like a nice, kind sister. She is always present in my life, shares her secrets with me, and yet, she has her own life and I must let her, and indeed her people, speak for themselves – they have many things to say... When in Athens, I am overcome by an incredible feeling. Wherever I stand, from the cobbled streets of the ancient town, or among the throngs of people going about their daily business, I somehow feel at home. Even in difficult, or may I say, dramatic times for Greece, I like to go and meet up with my Greek friends, I like talking with them, listening to what they have to say, and I always feel that we share the same emotions. “Una faccia, una razza” (two peas in a pod), as the Greeks say about us. Even if I sometimes have serious doubts about this association (for example, the Italians don’t complain as much!), it makes me feel good. Like most foreigners visiting Greece, even after so many years of living here, I can’t resist the enchantment of her ancient wonders. It might seem a cliché, but at least twice a week, when I am in town, I go to Monastiraki and look at the Acropolis, enjoing the view of the Parthenon. I very often sit in a bar to drink a glass of beer (“Fix” is my favourite) and let my imagination run wild in this fascinating mixture of old and new, past and present, ancient and modern, that give Greece and Athens their charm. The Parthenon is always my first choice. But I have more and more “down-to earth” spots in this area that I like most , Monastiraki. There is a restaurant and an old bookshop that I have cherished for a long time. The restaurant is called Abissinia, located in a very lively and pecular place, in Abissinia Square. A friend of mine once invited me to this restaurant. Many times have I found myself walking around the square, mainly on Sunday, where there will invariably be a crowd of people bargaining around old (or simply old-looking) things, re-

minding me of similar (beloved) places in the Eastern Mediterranean, but it was difficult to imagine such an incredible and fascinating world inside this one small tavern. Of course, since then I have become a regular client. On the first floor one is met with a fabulous view of the Acropolis. But there is much more there for someone like me, who adores Greek food, especially good hearty simple food. In the beginning I would always order Cretan dakos, but after a few meals I began to discover other exquisite surprises, such as a really unique and tasty taramosalata, or a nice version of the Cypriot cheese haloumi. Frankly speaking, having travelled for decades in the Middle East, I thought that it was extremely difficult to find a haloumi Lebanese-style, which for me just has to be the best variation. Well, the haloumi of Abissinia more than cuts the mustard. The other “star” of my top places to visit is an old bookshop, named “Erato”, the kingdom belonging to my friend Giorgos Papadatos, and not far from the overground station of Thission. I heard about this old bookshop from our former leader Giovanni Spadolini, who passed away years ago. Spadolini, a great lover of Greece (a genuine philhellene, as they say here) was a collector of old books, mainly about history. Last December, I was visiting the Foundation Giovanni Spadolini in Tuscany, full of books he had collected throughout his life. I know that some of the volumes were found and bought from my friend Giorgos, a great mind, with precious memories of the old times, when passions were strong and the values shared were well protected. That is, without question, the part of Greece I love the most. These things are all, without a doubt, some of Athens’s best kept secrets, and always top of my list whenever I’m in town. Maybe I’ll see you there. After all, you can’t keep all your sister’s secrets to yourself forever.

Op-Ed writer, Corriere della Sera 6_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Beautiful Rides By Blaine L. Reininger

love to ride a bicycle. I love to ride a bicycle in Athens because I live here and it is here that I must express this love. Not because Athens is a great place to ride a bicycle. In fact, it is fairly difficult to ride here for a number of reasons. First off, there are no bicycle paths here (or so few that they amount to almost nothing). Second, and this should really be first, The drivers here are like some kind of wild animal. They wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see you, and they will run you down and back over your corpse if they think they will get to their destination 5 seconds faster. You have to watch your ass carefully, paranoically. Your perception must be ever-acute. It helps to expect the worst. In any given situation, expect the driver to do the stupidest possible thing and you will never be disappointed. When I bought my first bicycle here, back in 2000, I would see almost no one out on a bicycle. I get the impression that people thought that riding a bicycle marked you as an ignorant peasant who could afford no better, a throwback to more primitive times, or that biking was for children and not real men. I never saw women riding back then. I have watched appreciatively as the number of cyclists out braving the traffic in Athens has increased steadily over the years. I suppose it is because cycling has become trendy and because gasoline has become expensive for people with no money. I have even seen the time when cyclists passing one another on the street would ring their bells at each other in solidarity pass as cycling has become nothing all that special. I even took part in a demonstration of sorts, back in November 2007 when hundreds of cyclists rode through town out to the ministry of transport to ask (not demand, not throw stones or firebombs) that bicycles be allowed on the Metro. It was the most peaceful protest I have ever heard of. It seems to have worked. Bicycles are now allowed on the Metro all the time, as well as the Tram and the Proastiakos Suburban Railway. Because of this, Maria and I have taken some really excellent, eco-warrior bike trips on the Suburban Railway line to some of the towns on the sea between Athens and Corinth, Kineta and Agioi Theodori for example. There is excellent beach there and the trip is fabulously cheap. We also found out how to get to the sea in Athens by bicycle. One may just take the train to Palio Faliro and take the sometimes vague and uncertain path to the sea. The good way must be taught. One does eventually arrive at the beach. There is also a non-metro path I have recently found which I really love. It includes one of the few genuine bike paths to be found here. One rides along the concrete course of the ancient Illisos River where some excellent little tavernas and cafes can be found. I will include the link to my map. So, with a lot of stamina, perseverance, and eyes in the back of oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s head, a cyclist may find some really excellent and strangely beautiful rides in this city.

Co-founder of the music band Tuxedomoon CITY GUIDE summer 2012_7

THIS IS ATHENS 2012 What you hear in the news about Athens is only one of its many aspects. The city has many different faces. Its past glory is well preserved in its museums, but the city is alive and kicking out there. People are friendly and open. Athenians love to talk and communicate. They like to show the gems of their city, but it’s up to you to discover them. It can be fun.

Artwork by DIMITRIS tsoublekas, “city with dreams, 2004”

By MARIZA MANTZIOU

Syntagma Square

The big central square of the city, right in front of the Parliament. After last year’s demonstrations, maybe it is best known to the world as “The Athens’ Indignados Square”. It is the stage of major political but also cultural events, demonstrations and occasional riots. After all, Syntagma means Constitution.

cigarette. And maybe later on a cheese pie from a take away snack bar in the streets, during the rush hour. But when they really mean breakfast, then there’s honey from the mountains, butter, fresh orange juice, teas of a large variety of Greek herbs, olives, cheese, tomatoes, nuts, almonds, figs, many different kinds of freshly baked breads and cakes. It’s a Mediterranean thing.

Small hotels Greek breakfast in Plaka For many Athenians, breakfast means just a baked bread roll, a small cup of strong Greek coffee and a 8_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Near everything but located in quiet narrow streets, so you can sleep quietly. Most of them have a nice view to the Acropolis rock above and a nice terrace where you

Lycabet tus H Right in i ll t he wit

centr has to St. G mall white ch e of the city, e urch de orge on is wo dic to the hearth the effort, p. Walking upated prefera h t of mid car, kn bly not ill day (th o e w r n e ’s as telef also a c in there). eri a see the The view is be c, to take you ble whole o autiful up : Saroni f c gulf. I the city as fa you can r as the t’s idea picnic, or to w a breathtaki l for a day’s ng sun atch a the ope music concerset, n air th t eatre. in

can enjoy the sun and the view. Try to discover the patios and the pathaways intertwined among these small hotels.

as the Greek sunlight. Many Athenians love to grow small olive trees on their balconies too.

Olives and olive trees

Scaffolding Graffiti

The olive is the emblem of Athens. Best kept pickled, perfect companion for any kind of Greek “meze” (national tapas varieties). “Bread and some olives” has been the food of hundreds of thousands of poor people through the centuries. It’s a symbol of modesty and respect to the produce of the earth. The olive tree was protected by the city’s patron-goddess Athena. Dark green, grey, silvery olive groves surround the outskirts of Athens, as typical

City being rebuilt. City will survive.

Athens may be overall gray but graffiti gives it some colour. Tags that mark the walls, some loud and angry, others sophisticated and artistic. There’s no empty surface untouched, be it on a neoclassical houses, stone walls, any kind of concrete, train carriages. The first generation of street artists have paved the way for the CITY GUIDE summer 2012_9

The Parthenon

Artwork by DIMITRIS TSOUBLEKAS, â&#x20AC;&#x153;comfort & safety 1999-2001â&#x20AC;?

The ancient Greek temple that stands on top of the Acropolis hill in the middle of the city, beautiful and respected. Majestic as a symbol of all that Greece represents. In the summer nights with a full moon, poetry reading and classical music concerts take place on the hill and even stressful Athenians feel the vibe.

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acceptance of graffiti as an art form, so now you can see vast, beautiful works covering the ugly side walls of buildings, spreading their own free spirited messages and you can also see the work of graffiti artists in some Athenian galleries.

Mavili Square

A small square near the American Embassy where a big crowd of young hip Athenians gather every night in the streets outside bars. Its lively atmosphere, the small fountain, the reasonable prices and the easy access make it one of the most popular spots of the city until the wee hours of the night. Don’t forget to try the hotdog snack from the nearby canteen.

Love comics?

If you love comics in Athens there’s a large community of comic fans and the Comics Fan Club, a non profit organization open for the public every day. You can have access to the Greek Comics Library (with thousands of editions) there, meet Greek artists, get some great pieces of original art, and attend many events, presentations, forums, animation / anime screenings, play trivia games and even get a small gift. Agias Irinis 5, Monastiraki, (+30) 210 3318168

Bluest blue: the colour of Greece

You can see it all over Greece, on architecture and everyday items, especially on the white church domes and house doors of the islands, even in souvenir shops, glass beads and charms against the evil-eye. It’s the vibrant turquoise blue, a special radiant colour that is believed to have magic powers and protects the glass from breaking. Also keeps mosquitoes and flies away.

Moussaka

There’s no Greek restaurant without moussaka in their menu, but there are some old “hidden”, traditional taverns where you can get the real thing. Like in “Paradosiako Inomagirio” (Tradional Wine and Dine), only 3 minutes walk from Syntagma square (Voulis & Navarchou Nikodimou str.).

Best original haircut in the city

Near Syntagma square, on Apollonos street in Plaka, there’s a traditional barber’s shop, a “kourion”. It’s the kind of place your grandad would go to have “a proper grooming”. There’s always a friendly atmosphere, talking and arguing about politics, football or even “how do you like Athens, sir?’. There are only a few such “kouria” left nowadays and, like the traditional coffee shops (“kafenia”), barber shops in Athens are the equivalent of the ancient Agora where men would spend their day talking. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_11

Artwork by eirini iliopoulou

Cine Thiss ion wa by CNNs vaoted movie thes â&#x20AC;&#x153;Best in the wo atre in 2012rld"

Cinema under the stars Open-air cinemas: a trademark of the Athenian summer o not miss the opportunity to spend a lovely evening in one of the numerous open-air cinemas of Athens. Once the weather is warm enough, people of all ages choose to spend their evenings watching new releases or re-releases of older films under the starlit sky. Enjoy the best movies of the season in a one of a kind experience. Although most open-air cinemas are located in the centre of Athens, they are usually isolated gardens with trees. Indulge in your favourite cinema snacks and beverages along with cold summer drinks and beers and let the atmosphere guide you through the night. More importantly, screenings will pose no language problem to foreigners: in Greece, films are not dubbed but subtitled. Open-air cinemas began as an experiment in Athens in the latter half of the twentieth century and gradually became a trademark experience of the Athenian summer. Their increasing popularity during the last few years resulted in many of them screening new releases that premiere during the summertime. The ticket price ranges between € 7 and € 9. With an additional amount of money you will be able to buy snacks and drinks of all kinds. Good news for smokers: smoking is allowed at all times.

The most traditional open-air cinemas in Athens Cine Psiri

RIVIERA

(Map I6

(Map E12

Monastiraki)

Omonia)

Sari 40-44, Psiri (+30) 210 3212476 Cine Dexameni

Valtetsiou 46, Exarchia (+30) 210 3837716 Athinaia

(Map I14

(Map I16

Evangelismos)

Dexameni sq., Kolonaki (+30) 210 3623942 Egli (Map N12

Syntagma)

Zapion Garden (+30) 210 3369370 Cine Paris (Map M8

Akropoli)

Kidathineon 22, Plaka (+30) 210 3222071 Vox (Map D12

Omonia)

Themistokleous 82, Exarchia (+30) 210 3301020

Evangelismos)

Charitos 50, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7215717 Cine Thission (Map M5

Thissio)

Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thissio (+30) 210 3420864 Cine Filothei Drosopoulou sq., Filothei (+30) 210 6833398 Cine Psichiko Classique Kifisias 290 & Paritsi 2, Psichiko (+30) 210 6777330

Photo: vangelis koronakis

Buildings with Character

Architecture in Athens is by no means consistent like in many European capitals. However, the link between the city’s ancient past and present has never been cut. Many describe modern Athens as a city that lives with a rat race rhythm surrounded by a concrete drudgery. Wrong! It just needs some effort to discover the architectural gems that are hidden amongst more modern buildings. Distinguished buildings built before the turn of the century in the neoclassical style are scattered throughout the city. The style of neoclassicism flourished in Athens when it was the style followed by all the architects who were responsible for the reconstruction of the capital by order of King Otto in 1830. In the beginning, the neoclassical style copied the ancient Greek buildings. Later on it progressed to an original Greek structure, with true representative the “Athenian Trilogy” of Panepistimiou Avenue, and some buildings in Plaka as well. In the interwar era and especially after 1955, a number of Athens’ neoclassical buildings were torn down. Expressive figures of the style that was popular in the rest of Europe were the Danish architects, Theophilus and Christian Hansen, and the German, Ernst Ziller. - LENA CHOURMOUZI

- KONSTANTINOS SAMARAS CITY GUIDE summer 2012_13

sksarettes, Kio ries, cig

Artwork by KONSTANTINOS KAKANIAS (detail)

e zines, For batt g gum, maga and in , w ts e n h e c , m snacks ducts, refresh all kiosks o m r s p e y th ir r fo da ctically ore, look und pra much m ) that can be fo nd everything y tera” will fi (“perip ere. There you s, located mostl a, h s everyw . The big kio k ares of Syntagm d you nee round the squ ually stay open a s, us n w to lonaki, rnational pres down and Ko te Omonia nd also sell in d more. n ta all nigh urist guides a k the owner of to s a t, s lo They .

ou ar instructions nd TIP If yio k for nglish a the k s speak E d usually n help you fin ca y. your wa

basic greek at a glance

Hello Ya-ssou Yes Neh No Oh-khe Please/You are welcome Pah-rah-kah-low Thank you Ef-kha-ree-stow How are you Tee-kah-nees? Fine Kah-la What is your name? Pos se leh-neh? My name is… Meh leh-neh… You have beautiful eyes Ekh-ees ow-raia mat-thia I don’t understand Greek Ehh? Do you speak English? Mee-las ang-lee-ka? Goodbye Ya-sou (or Ah-dee-oh) It’s too hot today Skas-sameh seem-ehrah Where is…? Poo ee-neh? How much does it cost? Pos-oh kah-nee? It’s too much Ee-neh po-lee Food Fag-ee-tow Water Neh-row Sex Sex Condom Pro-fi-la-kti-ko I got sunburned Tchoo-roo-flee-shtee-kah Bank Trap-ez-ah Post office Tach-ee-dro-mee-oh Restaurant Es-ti-ah-tor-io Hotel Ksen-oh-dho-khee-o Breakfast Proy-ee-no Bus Lay-o-for-ee-oh Toilet Twa-let-tah Beach Pa-ra-lee-ah Harbor Lee-man-ee I would like a ticket for… Thel-oh eh-na iss-ee-tee-ree-oh yah…

What is foustanela?

It is the pleated 19th century “Greek kilt” worn by the Evzones, the elite soldiers of the Presidential guard who stand in front of the Parliament, guarding the monument of the Unknown Soldier. It is made of 300 metres of white cotton cloth, pleated 400 times to represent the number of years Greece was under Ottoman occupation.

Yes, you can take a picture for a minute, standing next to the Evzones

You can even check if they blink. Even better, wait to see them march. Every so often they do a little march and they change on the hour. Every Sunday morning, just before 11:00 you can watch the full official ceremony when the whole Presidential Guard march to the monument followed by a military band. Just don’t stand in their way – they’re not allowed to stop for any reason and they’re allowed to march-kick any obstacles with their “tsarouchia”.

“Tsarouchia”: The pom-pom shoes

Another emblem of Athens. Those were the hard pointed shoes worn as a weapon, so they could kick the enemy, during the 1821 War of Independence. They are red hard leather clogs (3 kg each) with 60 heavy hobnails embedded in the sole and heel (so they don’t slip). Attached to the front there’s a black woolen pompom which discreetly covers the pointed edge, also serving as a cleaning pad for the shoes.

Monastiraki

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

One of the oldest neighbourhoods of Athens, right beneath the Acropolis. It boasts the best known flea market of the city, a bustling maze of alleys, trendy bars, traditional coffee houses and many little antique shops selling everything, from beads to rare vinyls, decapitated dolls, collectible magazines and ephemera, furniture, military gear, even vintage motorbikes. Most of the shops are in the picturesque central Avissinias square. Try to bargain, enjoy the experience â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and after closing time, enjoy the traditional raki and ouzo parties outside the nearby tavernas, accompanied by live music street bands.

Athens can be a great place to walk around. In fact, many of its most impressive sites and neighbourhoods are within walking distance from its principal square, Syntagma square. Here you can read a suggested two-day schedule for some great Athenian strolls. You can use this as a springboard from which to pick what suits you best. By KONSTANTINOS SAMARAS - Photos: vangelis koronakis

DAY 1 1111

Start early for a beautiful summer walk along the foremost square of Greece: Syntagma sq. Be sure to pay a visit to the Greek Parliament and watch the ceremonial changing of the guard (tsolias) every hour. Walk down Amalias Ave. and make your second stop at the National Gardens to enjoy an oasis of greenery in the heart of Athens. Pass Zapion to reach your third destination for the morning: the historically important Panathenaic Stadium that housed the first Olympic Games in 1896. Afterwards, walk down Vasilissis Amalias Ave. and reach the pedestrian route that leads to Plaka, the main tourist area of Athens. Take your time in its beautiful, picturesque streets and cul-de-sacs. If hungry, you can have lunch at one of the numerous traditional Greek restaurants. Next, visit the Acropolis Museum that is located on Dionisiou Areopagitou str. before you climb the Acropolis hill to admire Parthenon, the emblem of western civilisation. Subsequently, stroll down pedestrianised Apostolou Pavlou str. and head to Thissio. Continue along the same route to reach Monastiraki where you will experience the hustle and bustle of the Flea Market. Alternatively, you can continue to the adjacent, equally buzzing district of Psyri.

DAY 2 1111

Begin your day with a walk or rather, a hike on the majestic path to Lycabettus Hill. It is worth the effort: at the top you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the entire Attica basin. There is also a theatre and small church on top of the site. Walk down the hill and head to the area of Kolonaki. Filled with hundreds of shops, many of them designer brand shops, Kolonaki invites you to indulge yourself in some shopping or, at the very least, window-shopping and a relaxing coffee in its main square. Finish your day with a lovely dinner at one of the alternative restaurants in the nearby neighbourhood of Exarchia. Or go to the cool Karitsi sq., also an ideal place where you can cool down and grab a beer.

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Thissio Karitsi sq.

Acropolis view from Filopapou Hill Flea market

Do t le ave your hnoote without s l room unscree a pa a hatiranodf sunglassens, , water as a bottle of tempera can rise in tures thirtiestointhe high early afte the rnoon.

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_17

561-560 Peisistratus seizes power and becomes tyrant in Athens.

c.530 New temple of Athena built on the Acropolis. 508-507 Democratic reforms of Cleisthenes in Athens

A concise overview of Athenian and Greek history from the ancient times to the present By Vangelis Koronakis

c.3000 Evidence of human habitation at the foot of the Acropolis Hill in Athens. 2700-1450 The Minoan Civilisation flourishes in Crete and the Aegean, centred on the palaces at Knossos and Phaestus in Crete, with trade relations with Egypt and Syria. 1700-1100 Rise of the Mycenaean Civilisation. Mycenaean trade with Egypt and the Eastern Mediterranean. Successive invasions of the Greek (Hellenic) Tribes: Achaeans, Aeolians, Ionians and Dorians. A royal fortress is built on the Athenian Acropolis. 1200 A legend regarding the foundation of Athens: upon his return to the city after slaying the Minotaur in Crete and rescuing Athenians held captive by Minos, King Theseus unites the province of Attica with Athens as its capital. 1100 The collapse of the Mycenaean Civilisation is followed by the Hellenic Dark Ages. Aeolian, Ionian and Dorian Greek colonisation of Asia Minor. c.1000 The city limits of Athens expand, construction of the first Agora. 8th century Greeks found colonies around the Mediterranean basin. Rise of aristocracies throughout Greece. 776 The first Olympic Games in history, held at Olympia, mark the beginning of the Classical Greek period. 621 Dracon drafts strict new “draconian” law code in Athens. c.600 Athens wins Salamis from neighbouring Megara and founds a colony, Sigeum, at the mouth of the Hellespont. 594-593 Archonship of Solon. First democratic reforms in Athens (cancellation of debts, replacement of birth by wealth as the criterion for office, creation of a people’s court). 566 First Panathenaic Games held in Athens to honour Athena, goddess of wisdom and patron-goddess of the city. 18_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

upheld by the “Eclesia” (public assembly of male Athenian citizens with the right to vote at public hearings and elect magistrates). 499 Beginning of the Persian wars with the revolt of the Ionian city-states against Darius. Athens sends a fleet in support of the Ionians. Darius pledges to avenge the Athenians. 490 The Athenians block the Persian invasion with their victory in the battle of Marathon. Legend has it that Pheidipides, an Athenian herald, ran from the battlefield back to Athens to announce the triumph with the word “nenikikamen” (we won) and died on the spot. This story inspired the modern Marathon run. 490-480 Extraction of silver ore from the mines at Laurium, used for minting the Athenian silver “owl” coins that financed the expansion of Athens’ navy. 480 King Leonidas of Sparta, vastly outnumbered by the Persian army under Xerxes, falls with his warriors in the battle of Thermopylae. The Persians sack Athens but are badly defeated in the naval battle of Salamis. 461-429 Named by historians The Golden Age of Athens. During this period, Athens establishes the Athenian (or Delian) League and takes control of a large number of Greek city-members of the League. Athens and its allies pursue an offensive war against both the Persians and the Peloponnesian League led by the Spartans. In 451BC, Athenians and Spartans sign a five-year truce, which lasts until 446, whereupon begins the period known as the Thirty Year Peace. During this period, Athens reaches the peak of its prosperity. Democracy, science, philosophy, drama, architecture, sculpture, all flourish. The Parthenon, among other architectural masterpieces, is built between 447-437BC. 431 The peace is broken with the onset of the Peloponnesian War. Athens goes at war with Sparta once again. 430-428 The plague decimates a quarter of the population of Athens, including Pericles. 415 Athenian expedition sails to Sicily under Alcibiades. 404 The end of the Peloponnesian war and Athens’ surrender usher in Sparta’s hegemony in the Hellenic World. This is followed by a short period of Theban dominance. 360 Philip II is crowned king of Macedon and the period of the kingdom’s dominance begins. 356 Alexander the Great, son of Philip II, is born in Pella. 336 Philip dies and Alexander succeeds him as King of Macedon. 334-323 Alexander is proclaimed King of all Hellenes and embarks on the conquest of Persian lands, expanding his empire as far as Egypt and India. 323 Alexander dies in Babylon and the Hellenistic Period begins. Macedonia becomes dominant in the Hellenic World. 146 Greece becomes a province of the Roman Empire. 86 Following Athens’ support to Mithridates, king of Pontus, Sulla attacks the city. Athens loses all political influence and Corinth is established as the capital of the Roman province.

54 The Apostle Paul visits Athens and delivers the Sermon on Aeropagus Hill. 150 Herodes Atticus becomes governor of Athens, constructs the theatre at the foot of the Acropolis that bears his name. 330 Constantine the Great transfers the capital of the Roman Empire to Byzantium, which is renamed Constantinople. The Byzantine Empire is established. Before his death,

Constantine the Great establishes Christianity as the official religion of the Byzantine Empire. 529 Philosophical academies closed by Emperor Justinian I, temples reconsecrated as Christian churches. 1054 Schism between the Eastern Orthodox and (Western) Roman Catholic Churches. 1204 Capture of Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade by the Franks and Venetians. 1453 Sultan Mohammed II captures Constantinople. End of the Byzantine Empire. 1456 Capture of Athens by Omar. 1460-1715 Turks occupy all of Greece after continuous warfare with the Venetians. 1687 Venetians lay siege to Athens under Morosini. The Acropolis, which was used as a Turkish gunpowder store, is partially destroyed. 1801 Lord Elgin removes Parthenon marbles to London. 1821 The Greek Revolution against Ottoman occupation begins. 1827 The fleet of the mediating powers (France, Britain, Russia) destroys the Turkish fleet at Navarino. End of Otto-

20th & 21st centuries

1910 Cretan politician Eleftherios Venizelos is elect-

ed prime minister of Greece. 1912 First Balkan War. Greece, Serbia, Montenegro and Bulgaria fight against the Ottomans. Greece obtains parts of Macedonia, Epirus and the north Aegean islands. 1913 Second Balkan War. Greece and Serbia fight against Bulgaria. Crete unites with Greece. 1914 King Constantine insists that Greece remains neutral during the First World War. Venizelos wants to enter the war on the side of the Allies. The King flees the country and Greece enters the war. 1919 The Allies award Venizelos, being on the winners’ side, certain parts of Turkish and Bulgarian Thrace and the right to place troops in the area of Smyrna on the Turkish coast, home to a large and prosperous Greek population. 1921 The Greek troops begin a massive campaign and advance towards Ankara. 1922 The resurgent Turkish army drives the Greeks back to the coast and Smyrna is burnt down on August 31. More than a million Greeks abandon their homes and become refugees on the Greek mainland. There follows a massive exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey, based on religious faith, under the Treaty of Lausanne. 1940 After occupying Albania, Italy demands the right of passage through Greece. Greeks respond to the Italian ultimatum with a single word, “No”, on October 28. Greek troops repel the Italian forces into the Albanian mountains, advancing towards Albania during the winter. 1941 In April, Germany invades Greece and the country is occupied by German, Italian and Bulgarian forces. The great famine of the winter of 1941 leaves more than 40,000 dead, mainly in Athens and other major cities. Greeks take to the mountains, form resistance groups and declare a “Free Greece” on the inaccessible mountainous mainland. 1944 The last Wermacht soldier departs from Athens on October 12. Greek and British troops enter the liberated capital. In December, fighting breaks out in the streets of Athens between communist supported resistance groups and the

man Rule in Greece.

1830 Greek sovereignty recognised under the London Protocol. Nafplio becomes the first capital of independent Greece. 1831-1834 The assassination of the first governor of Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, leads to the establishment of the monarchy by foreign powers. Bavarian King Otto I arrives in Greece and Athens is established as the new capital. 1838 The Royal Palace (now the House of Parliament) completed on Syntagma Square. 1843 King Otto grants a constitution and representative Assembly, following popular uprisings. 1863 King Otto is dethroned and prince William of Denmark is crowned King of Greece under the name George I. He brings the Ionian islands as a coronation gift from Britain. 1866 Cretan uprisings against the Ottomans lead to war between Greece and Turkey. 1877 Prime Minister Charilaos Trikoupis introduces measures that limit the power of the monarchy to interfere in democratic institutions. 1896 The first modern Olympic Games held in Athens.

National Army supported by the British. After a month of intense fighting, the guerrillas surrender. 1946 A guerrilla army is put together in the mountains by the Communist Party and a bitter three-year civil war erupts. The Dodecanese islands are united with Greece, giving the country its final shape. 1949 The National Army, with heavy support from the US, drives back the guerrillas through the northern borders of Greece. More than 50,000 communists and their families become political refugees behind the Iron Curtain. 1952 Greece joins NATO. 1962 Greece becomes the first associated member of the European Community. 1967 A group of middle ranking army officers seize power and a seven-year dictatorship begins. King Constantine II flees the country. Military junta led by Colonel Papadopoulos rules Greece. 1973 In November, an uprising of students in Athens against the dictatorial regime, known as the Athens Polytechnic Uprising, is crushed with bullets and tanks. 1974 A coup in Cyprus results in Turkish invasion and occupation of the northern part of the island. Military regime collapses in Athens. A Republic is proclaimed by referendum. Presidential democracy adopted. 1981 Greece becomes the tenth member of the European Community. 1985 Athens becomes Europe’s first Cultural Capital. 2002 Greece joins the Euro zone and abandons the drachma after 167 years. 2004 Greece successfully organises the Olympic Games. 2010 Karolos Papoulias, is elected President of the Republic for a second five year term. Greece requests financial help from the EU and the IMF. 2011 Lucas Papademos, ex central banker, becomes Prime Minister of Greece head of an interim coalition government. A rescue package worth 130 billion euros is agreed on the condition of unprecedented austerity measures for the population. 2012 General elections held in May.

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_19

A short introduction to the the lives of modern Greeks who have influenced arts, science, business and politics during the last century. By Vangelis Koronakis

Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957)

ikos Kazantzakis is one of the greatest Greek writers of the 20th century, and author of the most widely translated Greek novel, “Zorba the Greek”. He was born in Ottoman-occupied Crete and studied law in Athens and philosophy in Paris. Soon after, he started traveling extensively and while in Berlin from 1922 to 1924 he got acquainted and inspired by the new communist ideology. His curiosity led him to the Soviet Union where he examined the political system without ever becoming a true communist. He was one of the most free-spirited Greek writers and his work is deeply philosophical with metaphysical, religious and existential dimensions. He studied and was influenced deeply by Nietzsche and his ideas and his approach to the faith of God and atheism was a complicated one throughout his life. Jesus is present in many of his works with most characteristic of all “The Last Temptation of Christ” were

20_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

he is depicted as an emotional human being who is split between the sense of divine duty and the pleasures of life. The book was added to the list of banned books by the Vatican and the Greek Orthodox Church was outraged to the point of excommunicating him. His other works include “Report to Greco”, “Captain Michalis”, “The Saviours of God” and an epic translation of Homer’s “Odyssey” consisting of 33,333 verses, while a wonderful series of travel masterpieces was the result of his extensive travels to Italy, England, Rusia, Spain, Egypt, China and Japan. His works were met with skepticism by the conservative literary circles because of the language he used, a mixture of the simplified “demotic” Greek with many elements of the Cretan dialect. After WWII he was briefly involved with politics taking up a ministerial position in the government of recently liberated Greece. In 1957, after many years of trying without official Greek support, he was finally nominated for the Nobel Prize of Literature, which he lost to Albert Camus. Later that year, invited by the Chinese government, he travelled to China where he fell ill and was finally transferred to Freiburg Germany where he died. He was buried in Crete, on the Venetian wall surrounding Heraklion, as the Greek Orthodox church did not allow for a Christian burial in a cemetery. According to his wish, the epitaph on his tomb reads: “I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free”.

Eleftherios Venizelos (1864-1936)

onsidered by many as the greatest Greek of modern times, he is the man whose name you’ll encounter almost everywhere: from the Athens International Airport to hundreds of streets all over the country. Born in Ottoman-occupied Crete, he studied law in Athens, took part in several revolutions and fought for the independence and union of Crete with Greece (1913). He was elected Prime Minister of Greece and served on and off between 1910-1932 as the anti-monarchist republican pole in the Greek political scene. During the WWI he insisted, against the king’s wish, that Greece entered the war on the side of the allies. Army officers loyal to him, proclaimed a Temporary Government of National Defence based in Thessaloniki, the allies recognized them as the legitimate government of the country, the King went to self-exile and Greece entered the war. The country subsequently doubled its size with the liberated territories awarded by the allies under the Treaty of Sèvres. Despite his diplomatic success, lost the elections of 1920, and his royalist opponents continued the disastrous campaign deep in the Turkish lands that ended with the humiliation of the Greek army and the complete destruction of the prosperous Greek community of Smyrna and Asia Minor in 1922. Venizelos was called back to sign the Treaty of Lausanne which resulted in a massive exchange of populations and the yield of certain territories to Turkey. The biggest achievement of his second period after 1928 was the improvement of the Greek-Turkish relations. A second assassination attempt and an unsuccessful anti-royalist coup led Venizelos to Paris, where he died in March 1936. He was buried in Acrotiri, just outside his birthplace Chania, Crete.

Constantine Cavafy (1863-1933)

onstantine Cavafy is considered by many as the greatest Greek poet. He was born in Alexandria and was the youngest of seven sons. His father, a wealthy merchant who ran offices in Constantinople, Liverpool, London and Alexandria, died in 1870 and the family moved to England where they watched their fortunes decline before they were forced to move back to Alexandria. Two weeks before the British fleet bombarded the city, the family moved to Contantinople where they lived until 1885. Cavafy returned to Egypt, where joint BritishOttoman rule was imposed. There, he got a job as a civil servant, later working as a broker in the stock exchange. Cavafy lived with his mother or brothers until the age of forty-five and rarely traveled outside Alexandria. Soon after his brother left he started living on his own, but he limited his social life and devoted himself to poetry. He published his poems in newspapers and periodicals or printed them privately and distributed them among his close friends. No book with his work was published during his life time. Cavafy wasn’t known to the mainland Greek literary circles until 1903 but subsequently became one of the most popular poets in the country. His work deals with philosophy, history, emotion, sensual pleasures and homosexuality and his full skill and craftsmanship can only be appreciated in the Greek language. However, his friend E.M. Forster introduced him to the English speaking public through his translations in 1919. He died of larynx cancer in a hospital close to his home on his 70th birthday: 29 April 1933.

Georgios Papanikolaou (1883-1962)

eorgios Papanikolaou is the doctor who discovered the revolutionary “Pap” smear test used to this day regularly by hundreds of millions of women as a means of early detection of cervical cancer. Born in Kymi, a small town of Euboea island, he was the second son of a doctor and long serving mayor of Kymi. As a young boy he loved philosophy and upon completion of his secondary education he moved to Athens to study. He abandoned his studies in humanities and music (he was a good violinist) and switched to medicine, graduating from the university of Athens in 1904. Not very keen to work as a doctor, he moved to Germany in 1907 to study biology and clinical research in Jena, Freiburg and Munich. After a brief return to Greece during the Balkan Wars of 1912-14 he was persuaded to move to the United States where he spent the rest of his life working on scientific research. Papanikolaou introduced his screening method for the discovery of cancerous cells as early as 1927 but his findings were met with skepticism by the scientific community. It was not until 1941, when with gynaecologist Herbert Traut, he published a paper on the diagnostic value of vaginal smears and gained wide recognition by the medical community. Since then, “Pap” smear has been the standard method for early detection of cervical cancer that has saved millions of women’s lives. Papanikolaou suffered a heart attack and died in Miami while he was setting up a Cancer Research Institute in 1962. His figure was featured on the largest Drachma banknote of 10,000.

Melina Merkouri (1920-1994)

ctress, singer and politician, Melina, as she is universally known, was born into a family of politicians. Her grandfather, Spyros Merkouris, was one of the longest serving mayors of Athens. She studied drama and performed dozens of classical theatrical roles in Athens and Paris where she met figures like Jean-Paul Sartre, Jean Cocteau and Françoise Sagan, who deeply influenced her personality. Her cinema career started with the all time Greek classic “Stella” followed by other internationally acclaimed titles like “Never on Sunday” (five Oscar nominations and Cannes best actress prize), “Topkapi”, “Phaedra” and many more, most of which were directed by her husband Jules Dassin. During the seven-year military dictatorship (1967-1974), she fled the country and dedicated herself to fighting the regime abroad. As a result she lost her Greek citizenship and her property was confiscated. After the fall of the dictatorship, she returned to Greece and became a founding member of the socialist party of Greece (PASOK) under Andreas Papandreou. When PASOK won the 1981 elections she was appointed Minister of Culture, serving in this position until 1989. During her years in office, among many outstanding achievements, she started the worldwide campaign for the return of the Parthenon Marbles and masterminded the construction of the New Acropolis Museum to host them safely upon their return. Finally, she was the one who proposed the idea of the European Cultural Capital, a title that Athens held first of all European cities in 1985. She died on 6 March 1994 at New York’s Memorial Hospital and her funeral was held with full state honours. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_21

Aristotle Onassis (1906-1975)

nassis was born in Smyrna of Asia Minor (now Izmir) at a time when a prosperous Greek population existed on the Turkish coast. In 1922 he arrived on the mainland together with hundreds of thousands of Greek refugees, following the Smyrna catastrophe. He shortly emigrated to Argentina with very little money, where he started working as a telephone operator and then as a cigarette manufacturer with tobacco he imported from Turkey. The tobacco business and trading with Greece earned him a lot of money and he was eventually appointed Greek Consul in Argentina. The social status of the title and the flourishing business allowed him to buy his first ships in 1932. His shrewd, ingenious and often unconventional business tactics helped him to become one of the world’s biggest shipping magnates and a legendary figure in financial circles worldwide. In 1946 Onassis married Tina, the daughter of shipping tycoon Stavros Livanos, and they had a son, Alexandros, and a daughter Christina. In 1957 he started a passionate affair with the opera diva Maria Callas, and in 1968 he married Jackie Kennedy, widow of JFK. In 1956 he founded the world’s first private national airline, Olympic Airways, after being granted the licence from the Greek government. Under his ownership Olympic reached its heyday of glamour but failed to become profitable and Onassis returned it to the Greek state in 1975. In 1973, his son Alexandros was killed in a private airplane crash. Onassis never recovered. In fact this was the beginning of his own end, which came 2 years later on the 15th of March 1975. He was buried next to Alexandros on his private Ionian island of Scorpios which he had bought in 1963. His daughter Christina, mother of Athena the only heir to the Onassis fortune, was also buried there after her death in 1988. 22_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Maria Callas

Manos Hadjidakis

(1923-1977)

aria Callas (born Maria Kalogeropoulou in New York to Greek parents) was one of the greatest opera singers of the past century. Her life was full of personal tragedy and scandals worthy of a grand opera diva, with the press often focusing on her temperament and stage walk-outs rather than her extraordinary talent and voice. In 1937 she returned to Greece where she was admitted to the National Conservatoire in Athens and started music lessons encouraged by her mother with whom she had a difficult relationship. In 1947 Callas arrived in Italy to perform “La Gioconda”. There she met Giovanni Meneghini, a wealthy Italian industrialist and opera lover and they married two years later. Meneghini supported her career and subsequently, the doors of the biggest Italian theatres opened to her, where she performed the most difficult opera parts like Verdi’s “Traviata” and Puccini’s “Tosca”. In 1951, she started performing at La Scala in Milan, and the seven years she spent there were the highlight of her career. In 1959 she left Meneghini for the Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis and joined the international jet-set, abandoning stage performances. In 1964 she was persuaded to return to opera at Covent Garden. During the next year, despite vocal problems, she performed successfully a series of “Normas” and “Toscas” in New York and Paris but during one of them collapsed on stage. Against doctors’ advice, in July 1965 she decided to sing “Tosca” in Covent Garden, which was her last operatic performance. In 1968, Aristotle Onassis abandoned her and married Jackie Kennedy. Callas returned to non-operatic performances and international recitals, but without success. She spent her last 4 years isolated in Paris, where she died in 1977. Her ashes were scattered over the Aegean sea according to her wish.

(1925-1994)

adjidakis was one of the greatest music composers of modern Greece. He was born in the northern town of Xanthi. During the war years he supported his family by working as a harbour worker, ice seller, brewery employee and nurse. At that time he enrolled the university of Athens to study philosophy and started advanced lessons in musical theory at the National School of Music. He also took drama lessons and met with a number of influential people of the Greek literature, music and arts scene. His first works were music for theatrical plays like “Glass Menagerie”, “Antigone”, “Blood Wedding”, “All God’s Children Got Wings”, “A Streetcar Named Desire”, “Death of a Salesman” etc. He continued his career writing music for films where he met Melina Merkouri who became a life long friend. Some of the best known international productions he worked on were: “In the Cool of the Day”, “America-America”, “Memed my Hawk” and “Never on Sunday” for which he received a music Oscar Award in 1960. During his lifetime he served as a director of the State Orchestra and the Third Programme of the Greek radio. He also published “Tetarto”, a highly influential cultural magazine, founded both the Sirius record company and the progressive Orchestra of Colours. Hadjidakis’ adaptations brought discredited Rebetika songs to the wide public and introduced bouzouki to Greek mainstream contemporary music. His pioneering work combining folk and classical sounds and the nonconformist attitude to art and public affairs left a powerful cultural legacy. The most famous of his recorded works include “Magnus Eroticus”, “Gioconda’s Smile” and “Reflections” performed by the New York Rock & Roll Ensemble.

Theodoros Angelopoulos (1935-2012 )

rguably the most celebrated Greek filmmaker, Theo Angelopoulos has been an ambassador of modern Greek cinema through his highly acclaimed films. Born in Athens, Theodoros Angelopoulos studied law in the University of Athens. However, he never completed his studies, choosing instead to move to Paris and enroll in the Sorbonne. There, he read French literature, cinema and ethnology, under the instructions of journalist Georges Sadoul and ethnologist Claude-Levi Strauss. In 1962, he was admitted to the prestigious “IDHEC” film school. Later, he pursued further film studies in the “Musee de l’Homme”, where he was taught the technique of cinema verite, a style of documentary filmmaking, which profoundly influenced his own style. In 1964, he returned to Greece, where he was brutally attacked by a policeman. This incident made him more politically conscious and dramatically influenced his own films. Working as a film critic for several years, he debuted as a filmmaker in 1970, with his masterpiece “Reconstruction”, which firmly placed him on the map of internationally acclaimed film directors. His proflic career included fourteen films, including “The Travelling Players” (1975), “Landscape in the Mist” (1988) and “Ulysses’ Gaze”, all of which received honours and accolades by major film festivals, such as the Berlin and Venice Film Festivals. His film, “Eternity and a Day” (1998) received the Palm d’Or in the Cannes Film Festival. In 1992, he received the National Order of the Legion of France.He died in 2012, during the making of his last film “The Other Sea”, when he was run down by a passing motorcycle.

Dimitri Mitropoulos

Sir Alec Issigonis

(1896 – 1960)

imitri Mitropoulos is remembered as a gifted musician, composer, conductor and champion of modern music, known for having composed both orchestra pieces as well as piano solos, having arranged a selection of Johann Sebastian Bach’s organ works for orchestra, as well as supporting contemporary composers Ernst Krenek, Roger Sessions, Peter Mennin and legendary composer Gustav Mahler. Known for a photographic memory that allowed him to work without sheet music, Mitropoulos was a progressive mind, broadening classical music’s reach through televised performances and weekly performances at New York’s iconic cinema, Roxy Theatre, during his lifetime. Considering he was born into a non-musical family involved in the leather trade, Mitropoulos’ career is an extraordinary one. Cleary enamoured with music, he was educated in Athens, Brussels and later Berlin, where he assisted Erich Kleiber from 1921 at the Berlin State Orchestra. In 1924 he returned to Athens to become assistant conductor of the orchestra of the Hellenic Conservatory. Mitropoulos’ passion for music was evident from a young age – it is said that as a secondary school student, he would gather fellow musicians on Saturday afternoons to play, discuss and experience music. In 1936, he became the first modern musician to have played a solo and conducted an orchestra at the same time when he performed Prokofiev’s “Piano Concerto No.3” while conducting the Boston Symphony Orchestra from his keyboard as a guest. Two years later, he became the principal conductor of the Minneapolis Symphony Orchestra, now known as the Minnesota Orchestra, where he remained until 1949. He died in Milan at the age of 64, while rehearsing Gustav Mahler’s “3rd Symphony”.

(1906 – 1988)

elebrated as one of the most innovative car designers of the 20th century, he is best known as the creator of the British Motor Corporation’s most famous car, the Mini, as well as the Morris Minor and the Austin 1100; all monuments to design, as well as iconic symbols of British culture. Yet as a child, Issigonis allegedly showed no interest in cars, and did not even get into one until he was twelve. Nevertheless, with his grandfather and father both being engineers, perhaps it was in his blood. Born in Smyrna, now the Turkish city of Izmir, Issigonis’ father, Kostantinos, was a British citizen thanks to Issigonis’ great-grandfather Demosthenes having worked on the British-led construction of the SmyrnaAydin Railway. After studying in the United Kingdom, Kostantinos Issigonis bequeathed a love of all things British to his son, which put him in good stead for when Issigonis and his mother, Hulda, moved to Britain in 1923, after Kostantinos’s death. Issigonis enrolled on a three-year engineering course at Battersea Polytechnic. He failed the maths exam three times but his drawing skills were evident. Famous for once stating that mathematics was “the enemy of every truly creative man”, applied a creative mind on a very technical industry, and quickly gained a reputation for his individual and imaginative approach. When was ordered to create a car design that would compete against cheaper models coming from Germany and Italy using an existing engine, he created the most famous example of the Mini. When plans to put the design into production were put into question due to the cost of tools required, Issigonis designed the tools himself, thus enabling the Mini to officially launch in 1959. Almost overnight it became the best-selling car in Europe and soon became an icon of 60s. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_23

Neighbourhoods of Athens Athens exhibits a great diversity of neighbourhoods. Each one has its own distinct character and flavour. Ranging from the glamourous districts of Kifisia and Kolonaki to the alternative and Bohemian Exarchia, Athens has something for everyone. By ELISA SINADINOU

Agios Dionisios, Kolonaki 24_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

boasts Athens ehensive r . a compsport network n e a h t r public t ide and joy of dern The pr s its super-mo ned in e i capitalstem, which op ay to get w y t s s e o r b t e e he th m rbs by t ram is 2001. Tsouthern subuhundreds to the ere are also n take sea. Th s lines that ca of bu ou virtually y ere. everywh

Kolonaki

Expensive shops, famous brands, celebrities, impeccably dressed locals: all these lie in the core of Kolonaki, a chic and posh central neighbourhood. Shopping opportunities here are infinite, ideal for those who wish to spend some money in Athens. If shopping is not up your street, grab a bite of souvlaki from Derlicatessen (Tsakalof 14), open until late. And if your palate craves for something sweet, the top choice is Parliaros Patisserie at Herodotou str. Top Greek chef’s creations can tempt even those committed to a diet. Our pick: the strawberry pie. A relaxed stroll across Patriarhou Ioakeim str. will take you all the way to Kolonaki square, where you can enjoy coffee in one of the local cafés and mingle with the patrons.

Exarchia

The alternative, youthful, intellectual and Bohemian corner of Athens. Here you will find small arty shops with clothes and accessories, second-hand bookshops, cosy cafés with a lively atmosphere and tavernas offering good food at reasonable prices. The neighbourhood’s walls are adorned with graffiti and posters advertising every cultural event or demonstration in Athens. The local street market (laiki) held every Saturday morning at Kalidromiou str. is a colourful, loud place, where you can buy fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers. Exarchia is also home to many venues for live concerts. In An Club (Solomou 13-15), a legendary joint that is literally underground, hardcore metal rock fans can meet their favourite bands, both local and international. The area is abuzz with places to drink and eat. Kokki Kafe (Asklipiou 39) is a meeting point for local writers, journalists and actors. The most popular joint to eat souvlaki is the legendary Kavouras (Themistokleous 64). Along Valtetsiou str., you will find dozens of tavernas. If you like the way girls dress in Exarchia and you’d like to try on their style, take a shot at Tube (Solonos 114 ).

Photo: vangelis koronakis

Plaka

By far the most picturesque neighbourhoud of the city, Plaka is essentially the “Old Town” of Athens. Built under the shadow of the Acropolis Hill, it will carry you back in time with its small houses, neoclassical buildings and pedestrianised roads. The area is full of small memorabilia shops with souvenirs and traditional tavernas. Salesmen here are usually friendly and willing to bargain. Anafiotika, an area located right beneath the Acropolis, will give you the sense of being in a Greek island. Not accessible by car, this beautiful neighbourhood resembles the traditional architecture of the Greek island Anafi. For a drink, a good choice is Brettos bar, located at Kidathineon str. The second-oldest

Adrianou str., Thissio CITY GUIDE summer 2012_25

et for A safe b ing: take n ve a a nice erom Syntagm . f a m n i a r r the t Flisvos Ma shops sq. to e, nice coffee , lots rse eez Cool brsea and of cou ummer s e l h a t c i by rite ts. A typ of yach t and a favou ns nigh or Athenia stroll f e southern in th urbs. sub

Photo: Courtesy of MARINA FLISVOU

26_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

distillery in Europe, it started operating in 1909 at the ground level of an Athenian mansion in Plaka. Nowadays, it operates as a small bar, decorated with coloured bottles, serving more than 36 exclusive liqueurs.

Kifisia

The northern leafy suburb of Kifisia is a great commercial centre and one of the wealthiest neighbourhoods of Athens. It boasts cycling lanes, a pedestrianised centre, mansions and plenty of green space. Alsos Kifisias is a park ideal for children. It features trees, bushes, a mini lake and two fountains. A large flower fair takes place in the park every spring. The fresh air of the park may whet your appetite for food. If you feel like grabbing something sweet, try the famous Varsos Patisserie (Kassaveti 5). We recommend their tsoureki, a type of sweet bread akin to brioche. You could also try some freshly brewed coffee at Loumidis Coffeeshop (Kifisias Avenue 236). For those keen on shopping, Kolokotroni str. is the top place to discover all the illustrious fashion brands. But there’s also something here for the culture-oriented visitor: Goulandris Natural History Museum - Gaia Centre (Levidou 13, (+30) 210 8015.870, www.gnhm.gr). The nearby neighbourhood of Nea Erythrea has become a hotspot of nightlife, with its many bars, bustling with life.

Piraeus

Piraeus is the largest and most important port in Greece. If you’re lucky enough to be heading to a charming Greek island, you will have to spend a few hours around the harbour. A huge marine and commercial centre, Piraeus is a busy working class neighbourhood bustling with life. It was immortalised in Manos Hadjidakis’s song “The Children of Piraeus”, sang by Melina Merkouri in Jules Dassin’s Oscar-winning movie “Never on Sunday”. There are several areas to visit. Chief among these are Pasalimani, a harbour that is home to luxury yachts, cafés and bars; Mikrolimano (or Tourkolimano) a romantic little port with pretty fishing boats and charming tavernas by the sea; Piraiki, between Marina Zeas and the port, is also home to fish tavernas. Perhaps the most beautiful of these areas is Kastela. Old captains’ houses and a genuine Greek-island atmosphere will make you feel like you’re walking through a postcard. Visit the Hill of Profitis Ilias for a stunning view of the Saronic Gulf and a lovely small church on top. Do not be alarmed if you see red and white flags hanging from the balconies of houses and shops. These are the colours of Olympiakos, Piraeus’s football club and one of the major ones in Greece.

Glyfada

Glyfada is the hotspot of the summer period, located 14 km south of the city centre. It offers shopping, nightlife and beaches, all in one. Luxury hotels, multiplex cinemas, four marinas (fully equipped for every type of yacht) and the widest streets and pavements in Athens comprise the glamourous setting of Glyfada. Get there by tram or one of the 30 bus routes serving Glyfada from Panepistimiou str. Once host to a USA military base and therefore to a great number of American residents, Glyfada has retained an American character, evident in its high number of burger houses, steakhouses and diners. If you want to get a taste of how amusement parks in Greece used to be in the past, make sure to stop by the International Luna Park on the 4th marina of the area (open 17:00-01:00 weekly). CITY GUIDE summer 2012_27

PARK

LIFE

Athens is by no means a green city. However there are quite a few leafy retreats where you can take a refreshing break away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. By vangelis koronakis

National Gardens (Map L12)

reated and designed by Queen Amalia in the 19th century, the National Gardens provide a pleasant green haven in the heart of bustling downtown Athens. Its meandering bench-laden paths, cool trees and popular ponds, make a favourite stroll for everyone. There is a Botanical Museum for the garden aficionados and for the young (or young at heart) there is the dedicated Children’s Library. A pleasant and always shady coffee shop is also located in its grounds.

Botanical Garden - Diomidous Gardens (Iera Odos 401)

xtending over a vast area of 1,800 hectares in Athens’ western suburbs of Korydallos, Dafni and Agia Varvara, it makes for a lovely, invigorating scenic stroll. Within its expansive serene grounds you can find an overwhelming abundance of flora (more than 3,000), some of which are exceedingly rare, as well as a dedicated botanic section with pharmaceutical plants. If lucky you might bump into a concert. University students prefer this garden for their summer concerts. Open 08:00-14:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-15:00.

Lycabettus Hill (Map F16)

he adventurous reach the top of the hill on foot. The strenuous but rewarding walk to the summit via the stairs was built by the “Union of Forest Friends” during the decade from 1908 to 1918. Pine trees that offer the ideal habitat for dozens of bird species surround the path. You also ascend to the top by the funicular or by car, offering excellent views of the entire city and the Saronic Gulf. There is an open-air theatre atop the Hill that regularly hosts concerts during summer months. However the most photographed attraction of Lycabettus is the small gleaming-white picturesque church of Saint George. A coffee-shop and restaurant (see our restaurant pages) are also to be found here offering the same breathtaking views of the capital. 28_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Photo: dimitris papadopoulos

Pedion tou Areos

Pedion tou Areos (Map A11)

lovely recently renovated park located within easy walking distance (just five minutes) from the National Archaeological Museum. Its expansive tree-lined vistas make for a pleasant stroll during the day – there are also numerous impressive statues of Greek War of Independence heroes.

Zapion Garden (Map N11)

ituated right next to (and actually forming an extension of) the National Gardens, the Zapion Garden generously provides a serene get-away from the hustle and bustle. There are wonderfully crafted statues to be seen, while the café and restaurant are well worth a visit. These Gardens harmoniously combine the grand (imposing architecture of the Zapion Hall) with the pristine, in its cool shady vistas and green corner get-aways.

Filopapou Hill (Map M05)

green area south west of the Acropolis known in the ancient times as the Hill of the Muses. It is a favourite promenade of the Athenians and from there you can have great views of the Acropolis, the whole city of Athens and the Aegean Sea that surrounds Attica. In 115 AD, a monument dedicated to the exiled Roman Prince Gaius Julius Antichus Philopappos of Commagene was erected on top of the hill. A paved path starts from Philopappou and leads to the Pnyx Hill, where the great orators of Greek antiquity used to gather and discuss political issues.

Akademia Platonos (Map E2)

significant cultural centre of Athens in ancient times, Akademia Platonos or “Plato’s Academy” is where philosopher Plato taught his disciples back on 5th century BC. These days, it is an oasis of green filled with monuments, ideal for strolls and picnics. One of the liveliest parks in Athens, it is a favourite among youths who often gather here for parties, feasts and festivities. It also houses the “Cooperative Cafe”, a hangout for more alternative crowds, offering mezedes and rakomelo.

g Feedin ngry u h the ever l around w water fo ational N e h t s 's pond Gardenmust. is a

Akademia Platonos CITY GUIDE summer 2012_29

Historic Buildings Church of St. Theodoroi A guide to interesting buildings you'll stumble upon during your strolls in the city By Vangelis Koronakis

National Library Athens Academy Athens University

Arsakeion Megaron Panepistimiou 47 (Map H10 Panepistimio) Built by renowned 19th century architect Lysandros Kaftantzoglou, this imposing building is among the finest examples of modern Athenian architecture and hosts the Council of State High Court. Adjacent to the Arsakeion is the pleasant Books’ Arcade, an ideal book-lovers’ haunt and for anyone looking for a shelter during a hot day.

open-air antiquities museum and is surrounded by beautiful neoclassical buildings from the turn of the century. The City Hall also houses a valuable art collection.

folding.

Bank Of Greece Panepistimiou 21 (Map I11 Panepistimio) The headquarters of the Central Bank of Greece. The building was designed by architects K. Papadakis and N. Zoumpoulidis and its foundations were laid in 1933. The official inauguration took place in 1938, under Governor Emmanouil Tsouderos.

Athens City Hall Kotzia sq. (Map H8 Omonia) An impressive neoclassical building situated in a breathtaking cobblestone square, bristling with pleasant cafés and busy shopping centres (the picturesque Central Athens open-air meat market is right down the street). The square also functions as an 30_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

(Panepistimiou 28-32 Panepistimio) These striking neoclassical buildings were built by the Hansen brothers of Copenhagen. The National Library is reached via an impressive sculpted marble staircase. The Athens Academy is flanked by imposing statues of Apollo and Athena on either side, while the impressive frescoes at its entrance depict the myth of Prometheus.

Aristidou & Evripidou st. (Map I9 Panepistimio) Yet another structure built over the ruins of a much earlier temple. This was common practice during Byzantine ages, in an attempt to wipe out idolatry. And what less costly method than appropriating the very materials the ancient building was made of, for “holy purposes”. According to the inscription found on the west wall, this church dates back to 1065AD. The last known restoration was in 1840, following damages it sustained during the Greek War of Independence. As is the case with most churches in Greece, the bell tower was added later. As for the imposing wall paintings, they date to the 19th century.

House of Parliament (Vouli) Syntagma sq. (Map K11 Syntagma) Overlooking Syntagma

square, it was originally the Royal Palace of King Otto and Queen Amalia, the first monarchs of Greece. Designed in the neoclassical style by Friedrich von Gartner, the palace was completed in 1843. It was used as the Royal Residence until 1924 and, since 1934, has housed the Greek Parliament. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a monument in honour of the servicemen who fell in the struggle for Greek Independence, is located in the forecourt of the building. The Tomb is guarded by the Presidential Guard (evzones) in traditional dress, whose intricately orchestrated changing of the guard at the turn of the hour attracts many visitors who also take the opportunity to feed the flocks of ubiquitous pigeons.

Church of Panagia Kapnikarea Ermou & Kapnikareas st. (Map K8 Syntagma / Monastiraki) Built on the ruins of an ancient temple, which was dedicated to goddess Athena or Demeter, this miniscule church is commonly known as Kapnikarea. It is usually surrounded by hundreds of people, either waiting for someone or having their portrait drawn and even having a breather in between shopping. In a poll, it would probably be voted the best loved church in Athens. As for its background, it was erected around 1050AD, but the small porch with the two columns was built closer to the end of the 12th century. It is cross-in-square shaped,

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_31

with three apses on the east side and a narthex on the west. A chapel, dedicated to Aghia Varvara, was later added to the north side. As for the interior, which is open to the public, there are paintings signed in 1955 by Greek artist Photis Kontoglou.

ing because of its connection with the historic student uprisings against the military dictatorship, which were violently put down on 17 November 1973. There is a monument in honour of the students’ uprising situated in the forecourt of the University, on which students and politicians lay wreaths on the anniversary of the uprising, in order to commemorate the event.

National Theatre Ag. Konstantinou 22 (Map F7 Omonia) Housed in an impressive neoclassical building, with a grand colonnaded façade and beautiful interior, it is the foremost establishment of the National Theatre of Greece.

National Polytechnic University Patision (28th October) 46 (Map C10 Omonia) This building, although in an unfortunate state of disrepair due to persistent student sit-ins, is worth visit-

Observatory

Tzisdarakis Mosque

Hill of the Nymphs (Map M3 Thissio) This historic Observatory, the first of its kind in Greece and the Balkans, was designed by renowned architect Theophile Hansen and was inaugurated in 1842. It has a unique cross-shaped structure, that points to the four points of the horizon, while its resplendent golden dome can be seen gleaming in the Athens sky from quite a distance.

Monastiraki Square (Map K7 Monastiraki) Overlooking Monastiraki square, this was a historic Ottoman mosque constructed during the governorship of the “voivode” Tzisdarakis in Athens, in 1759. It now houses the Museum of Greek Ceramic Art, while its Minaret has been removed.

Old House of Parliament Stadiou 13 (Map J10 Syntagma) It was the first residence of King Otto, while he awaited completion of the Royal Palace (now House of Parliament) and subsequently housed the Greek Parliament between 1843-1854 and 1875-1932. In front of the building there stands an imposing equestrian bronze statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, among the leaders of the Greek War of Independence. Today, this stately neoclassical building houses the National Historical Museum (see museums).

Zapion Presidential Palace and Megaron Maximou Irodou Attikou 19 (Map M13 Syntagma) The imposing Presidential Palace, which was formerly a Royal Residence, now hosts the Republic’s Presidency and is guarded by evzones (Presidential Guards). It was designed by renowned architect Ernst Ziller in the 1870s. Nearby is the neoclassical Megaron Maximou, which functions as the Prime Minister’s office.

Amalias & Vasilissis Olgas (Map N12 Syntagma) Built in 1874-1878 by architect Theophile Hansen, on the order of Greek-Romanian national benefactors and cousins Zapas, this lofty neoclassical structure originally housed an exhibition hall. Surrounded by beautiful gardens, that include a pleasant coffeeshop and restaurant, as well as an array of interesting sculptures, it is now used for international conferences and commercial events.

Cemeteries First cemetery ofAthens Trivonianou 29 & Anapafseos, Mets (Map Q12 Akropoli) Most famous Greeks are buried here. It is a museum in its own right with every kind of monument and ornamental patterns, marble sculptures, columns, sarcophagi and neoclassical temples, conveying the memorial art that flourished during the 19th century along the rebirth of the new Greek state. It was founded around 1837, when Athens was also established as the capital

32_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

city of the modern Greek state (1834). It spreads on the slope of the Ardittos hill, close to the Panathinaiko Stadium.

Commonwealth war cemetery Poseidonos av., Alimos 2,028 Commonwealth servicemen of the Second World War are buried or commemorated in this cemetery. 596 of the burials are unidentified and there are also 74 men of the army of undivided India who died during the campaigns in Greece

and Crete during the Second World War. In the northeast corner of the cemetery, a plot contains the graves of servicemen and civilians who after serving in the Crimean War, died in Greece. A Memorial within Phaleron War Cemetery commemorates nearly 3,000 members of the land forces of the Commonwealth who lost their lives during the campaigns in Greece and Crete in 1941 and 1944-1945, in the Dodecanese Islands in 1943-1945 and in Yugoslavia in 1943-1945, and who have no known grave. Tram stop: Pikrodafni

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_33

Gateways to a glorious past

A trip to Athens can never be complete unless you pay a visit to its most iconic landmark, Acropolis. Universally viewed as the emblem of Western civilization, it overlooks Athens for 2500 years. Acropolis stands as a majestic, sublime guardian of the city while in its vicinity lie some of the finest monuments in the world. By Konstantinos Tzikas - Photos VANGELIS KORONAKIS

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Hadrian's Library, Monastiraki

Acropolis of Athens (Map N6

Akropoli)

pread throughout a vast area, the Acropolis of Athens is an example of a smooth integration between a natural site and a man-made construction: a cluster of monuments built atop of a rock of roughly 30,000 sq.m. The most important religious centre of Athens in the ancient times, the Acropolis houses an impressive collection of architectural works that were created during the Golden Age of Pericles (5th BC). Under the guidance of sculptor Phidias and the vision of statesman Pericles, some of the most significant monuments of the city were built during that period. Arguably the most famous among them is the temple of Parthenon, built by Ictinos (447-432BC), a shrine to the city’s patron-goddess, Athena Polias. There is also the Erectheion, dedicated to the god Poseidon. In its porch one can see the replacements of the famous Caryatids (421-406BC) that are now housed in the Acropolis museum. Other monuments include the impressive entrance to the Acropolis, known as the Propylea, designed by Mnesicles (437-431BC) and the temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC).

Parthenon (Map N7

Akropoli)

ne of the world’s most famous and instantly recognisable monuments, the Parthenon is a paragon of perfection and harmony, and a testament to the levels of expertise and craftsmanship reached during the Golden Age of Pericles. The Parthenon is also fascinating from an architectural point of view, combining the austere simplicity of the Doric order and the exquisite sophistication of the Ionic order. It is also renowned for its beautiful frieze, perhaps the most famous in the world, which depicts the religious ceremony known as the Panathinea. € Admission Fee: €12 • Concessions: €6 (+30) 210 3210219

The Theatre of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (map n6, n7

Akropoli)

ne of the world’s oldest theatres, the Theatre of Dionysus, the god of wine and fertility, lies on the South Slope of the rock of the Acropolis. The works of the three great dramatists, Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed here. Often confused with the Theatre of Dionysus and also found here is the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, established in 161AD by the Athenian magnate Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife. The amphitheatre was restored in the 1950s, using white marble from the Penteliko Mountain. Since then it has been the main venue of the Athens festival and has featured performances by many famous Greek and international artists and performers. The sanctuary of Dionysus Eleuthereus can also be found here, established in the 6th century BC as a site for the festivities known as Great Dionysia. Many of the buildings found here were converted into Christian monuments during the 5th century AD. The East Slope features the cave of Aglauros, where Athenian youths (ephebes) took an oath to protect the sacred institutions of the city, whereas the North Slope offers the spring of Clepsydra, as well as cave sanctuaries dedicated to the cults of Pan, Zeus and Apollo, the cave with the Mycenaean spring and the sanctuary of Aphrodite and Eros.

ING OPENR ! HOU S ide was

gu me this nded At the ti print, the exte ot yet n to d a g h goin ble ost ally, m r timeta summe unced. Gener n around o n pe been an logical sites o nd 19:00. o archae and close arousite in the 08:00 ish to visit a visable If you w rnoon, it is ad e hand, e late aft nd check befor until a ll May a c to during at least seasonal staff the . is hired

The Ancient Agora (Map L5

Thissio)

he ancient Agora (gathering place) was the heart of public life in Athens, a large, open square that acted as forum for social, political, commercial and cultural activity. This is literally the birthplace of Athenian Democracy. According to tradition, the first law court in Europe was at the Areopagus (“rock of Ares”, the god of war), next to the Agora. € Admission Fee: €4 • Concessions: €2 (+30) 210 3210185

PNIKA (Map M4

Akropoli)

n ancient times, the Assembly of the Demos (i.e. Public Assembly of the citizens) was held on the nearby hill of the Pnika, which offers a breathtaking view of the city.

filopapou (Map P4

Akropoli)

ext to Pnika is the Filopapou Hill, also known as Hill of the Muses. Filopapou also features a monument of the same name, as well as a modern Observatory. The monument is a funerary column erected in 114-116AD by the Athenians in honour of Caius Julius Antiochus Filopapous, the exiled prince of the ancient kingdom of Commagene. 36_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

The Roman Forum and the Library of Hadrian (Map K7

Monastiraki)

wo of the largest monuments dating from the Roman era can be found north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient Agora, in the district of Plaka, in an area of 28,000 sq.m. The Roman Forum was the commercial centre of Athens during the Roman times. It was built under the supervision of Roman emperor Augustus (19-11 BC) to house the commercial enterprises of the city. The Library of Hadrian, constructed by Hadrian as part of an effort to redesign Athens, in 132 AD, was utilized to accommodate the city’s largest library, state archives and philosophy schools. Another monument in this site is the Water Clock (Horologion) or Tower of the Winds, with sculpted depictions of wind-related deities and an internal water clock, built in the 1st century BC by Macedonian astronomer Andronikos Kyrhestes. Other monuments include the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomion and the Fethiye Mosque (Tzami).

Lysikrates Monument (Map M9

Monastiraki)

n Tripodon St., stands a structure with an unusual shape: it is a monument in honour of the founder and benefactor of the nearby Theatre of Dionysus. Also known as the Lan-

A view of Acropolis from Filopapou Hill

tern of Diogenes, it was established in 335BC by Lysicrates and is one of the best preserved monuments of its kind.

Keramikos (Map I4

Kerameikos)

orthwest of Acropolis, Keramikos used to be the potters’quarters of the city in ancient times (“keramos” means pottery-clay, from which the English word “ceramic” is also derived). It was also the site of an important cemetery. In modern times, the site houses a museum with the most extensive collection of funereal artifacts in Greece, from urns to jewellery. € Admission Fee: €2 • Concessions: €1 (over 65) € Free admission (students) (+30) 210 3463552

Temple of Olympian Zeus (Map O10

Akropoli)

his temple represents a number of different periods of Athenian history. Its construction began in the 6th century BC under the tyrants Hipias and Hiparchos, at the exact locations where lay the ruins of an earlier temple built by their father, the tyrant Pisistratus. It remained unfinished, until it was completed centuries later, in 132 AD, by the Roman governon Hadrian. Originally enormous by ancient

standards, today only fifteen of its 104 columns are still standing. A sixteenth column lies on the ground, where it fell during a storm in the 19th century. € Admission Fee: €2 • Concessions: €1 (non E.U. students) € Free admission (EU students) (+30) 210 9226330

Panathenaic Stadium (Map O13

Syntagma / Akropoli)

nother landmark of the city is the Panathenaic Stadium. A stadium on this site existed since at least the 4th century BC and was used for mystical ceremonies held for the Panathenaic Festival in honour of Athena, goddess of wisdom and patron of the city. During the occupation of Athens by the Romans, governor Hadrian had also constructed a stadium at this exact location, where gladiatorial contests were held for the public. In 1896, it was completely restored with pentelic marble, as an exact replica of the ancient one, with the purpose of hosting the first modern Olympic Games. During the Athens Olympic Games of 2004, it provided the venue for the archery event as well as for the finish of the Marathon Run. Next to the stadium is a beautiful hill, the Arditos Hill, ideal for a walk after a visit to the stadium. € Admission: €3 (+30) 210 3251744 CITY GUIDE summer 2012_37

WHERE HISTORY LIVES ON...

National Archaeological Museum

Take your pick with our easy guide to Athens museums By LENA CHOURMOUZI

hey hold treasures of inestimable value and beauty. The capital’s museums are mainly scattered around the city centre. Some are brand new, stunning pieces of contemporary architecture, like the long-awaited New Acropolis Museum. Others are bright examples of the imposing neoclassical architecture of the 19th century, like the National Archaeological Museum. They all host a diverse collection of artifacts and finds from antiquity to the Byzantine era till the present time. However, make an effort to find some of the private local museums which host smaller yet diverse collections with themes that range from ceramics and jewellery to folk art and war . Always bear in mind that weather can be scorching in summer. So, it’s always better to pay your visits in the early hours of the day. It's the key to a successful visit: you will surely find no queues, no chocking traffic and it's the safest way to avoid getting sunstroke. In the meantime opening hours can change without notice, which is an additional reason to visit Athens museums in the morning. Some museums remain closed either on Mondays or Tuesdays.

• Wednesdays are usually the quietest of days to visit any museum in the capital • Some museums let EU students in for free (others charge half price) and e Somthat ve offer reduced rates for senior citizens over 65 and tipsht prol under 19 • In general, entrance fees range from € mig usefu 5-10 • Most museums have websites with updated practical information and upcoming events. • However it’s worth visiting the Greek National Tourism Information Office (Areopagitou 18-20, just opposite the Acropolis Museum entrance), for information on current opening hours, entrance fees and events • Or even better, use this guide to experience this ancient city’s heritage. 38_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

HISTORICAL National Archaeological Museum (Map C10

Victoria)

t is by far the largest archaeological museum in Greece. A true panorama of Greek civilization from the beginnings of Prehistory to late Antiquity. It was founded at the end of the 19th century to house and protect antiquities from all over Greece, thus displaying their historical, cultural and artistic value. You will effortlessly spend an entire morning or afternoon wandering its rooms and corridors. The interior is quite spacious and the more than 11,000 exhibits are clearly labelled. Among the biggest crowd pullers is the Gold Mask of Agamemnon unearthed by H. Schliemann in Mycenae. Do not miss “Room 6”, home of a vast collection of Cycladic Art from the Aegean Islands. The abstract forms of idols will remind you of the early forms of cubist art. The highlight of the entire collection, however, has to be to the Antikythera Mechanism, an astronomical computer able to predict the movements of stars and planets. Latest additions include a 4th century BC gold funerary wreath and 6th century marble statue of a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007 by the Getty Museum in California. • Until 28th April, 2013 “The Antikythera Shipwreck The Ship the treasures - the Mechanism” All antiquities recovered in 1900-1901 and 1976 from the legendary shipwreck off the islet of Antikythera, south of the Peloponnese, are presented for the first time in a temporary exhibition at the National Archaeological Museum. The recovery of the shipwreck itself was the first major underwater archaeological expedition. It was undertaken by sponge divers, with the assistance of the Greek Royal Navy (1900-1901). The second underwater research was carried

out in 1976 by the Greek Archaeological service and J.-Y. Cousteau’s oceonographic vessel “Calypso”. The wreck dates approximately back to 60-50 BC, while its cargo from the 4th-1st century BC. Patision (28 October) 44, Victoria (+30) 210 8217724 Mon 13:30-19:45/ Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00 € Admission fee: € 7 Concessions: € 3 for E.U. senior citizens (over 65 years old), students from countries outside the E.U. Free admission: Visitors under 19 years old, students from E.U. countries, admission card holders (Free Entrance Card, Culture Card, ICOM, ICOMOS), journalists, guides, soldiers Free admission to all visitors in the last weekend of September (European Day of Cultural Heritage) and on Tue 27 September (International Tourism Day)

Benaki Museum (Map K13

Syntagma)

must visit after a brief stroll around Kolonaki upmarket district. It is located right opposite the lush greenery of the National Gardens and the garden of the Presidential Mansion. Its impressive neoclassical building continues to resist the aesthetic deterioration of postwar Athens. Its permanent collection with more than 40,000 items offers a timeline of Greek history through the private collection of Antonis Benakis; the wealthy cotton merchant who donated all he owned to the state in the 1950s. There’s a wide range of Mycenaean jewellery and dazzling embroideries. Also on display are the impeccably labeled personal belongings of one of Greece’s most revered politicians, Cretan statesman and Prime Minister, Eleftherios Venizelos. The exhibits are impeccably labeled and you can spend several hours strolling the museum. A break at the rooftop café offers a refreshing view of the National Gardens. The museum shop stocks a fine selection of art books, catalogues, CDs and stationery. Koumbari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki (+30) 10 3671000 Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 09:00-17:00/ Thu 09:00-24:00/ Sun 09:00-15:00 € Admission fee: € 6 Temporary Exhibition: € 3 Concessions: € 3 persons over 65, an adult accompanying a child Free admission: Every Thu (except temporary exhibition and guided group), academics and teachers, archaeologists, conservators, journalists, families with three or more children

Cycladic Art Museum (MapK14

Syntagma / Evangelismos)

museum that houses in two separate buildings approximately 3,000 objects from all phases of Cycladic, Ancient Greek and Cypriot art, dedicated to the study and promotion of ancient cultures of the Aegean and Cyprus, with special emphasis on the Cycladic Art of the 3rd millennium BC. Of special beauty is the glass-roofed corridor, which connects the modern building of Neofytou Douka str. to the 19th century neoclassical Stathatos Mansion, restored as an extension for temporary exhibitions. • Until the end of September Jannis Kounelis , one of the most important representatives of the Arte Povera movement, will be exhibiting a new and site specific work at the Stathatos Mansion. There are two entrances to the museum. The Main

Benaki Museum

Building (permanent collection), Neophytou Douka 4 and Stathatos Mansion (temporary exhibitions), Vasilissis Sophias & Irodotou 1, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7228321-3 Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00/ Thu 10:00-20:00/ Sun 11:00-17:00/ Closed Tue € Admission fee: € 7 Concessions: Seniors (over 65) € 3.5 - students 19-26 years old € 3.5 - groups of 15 or more € 5 each Free admission: Kids and young persons under 18, visitors with disabilities and their companion , archaeologists, archaeology and art history students, members of ICOM, ICOMOS, journalists, qualified guides

The Byzantine and Christian Museum (Map K15

Evangelismos)

time travel to the everyday life, art, religious practices and customs of the Byzantine and Medieval periods of Greece. Reconstruction of parts of early churches, wonderfully preserved mosaic floors and wall paintings. It is worth seeing the ecclesiastical artifacts from the earliest years of Christianity, like the small flasks for holy oil. Maybe the wide range of Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons will whet your appetite for a church tour in Athens. It was once the villa of the eccentric French-American phihellene Duchess of Plaisance who was so inspired by the Greek War of Independence that she decided to fund a museum. Vasilissis Sofias 22, Kolonaki (+30) 213 2139572 Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00/ Closed Mon € Admission fee: € 4 Concessions: € 2 Free admission: Under 18 years old

Epigraphical Museum (Map C10

Omonia)

true challenge. The Epigraphical Museum of Athens is the third largest museum of ancient inscriptions in the world. Its 13,536 inscriptions displayed will definately put your knowledge of ancient Greek to the test. It safeguards inscriptions, mostly on stone or marble, like decrees, tribute lists, records that mainly come from sites in Attica. It is located in the south wing ground floor of the National Archaeological Museum and comprises an internal and external courtyard, a lobby, eleven rooms, a large hypostyle corridor and a laboratory for the conservaCITY GUIDE summer 2012_39

Stathatos Mansion - Cycladic Art Museum

museum stands behind the commanding statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, one of the most respected and revered leaders of the Greek War of Independence. There are quite a few urban legends about the equestrian bronze statue of the General. Notice that he turns his head towards the Parliament House and his hand is pointing the other way to where the 19th century Royal Mews were located. Urban legend says the hero of the revolution is indicating to parliamentarians loyal to the King that their rightful place was in the stables. There is a gift shop at the museum. Stadiou 13, Syntagma (+30) 210 3237617 Tue-Sun 09:00-14:00/ Closed Mon € Admission fee: € 3 Concessions: € 1.5 for students and senior citizens (+65 years old) Free admission: On Sun and for kids under 18 years old

Museum of Ancient Agora (Map K6

Monastiraki / Thissio)

oused in the renovated Stoa of Attalos within the archaeological site of the Ancient Agora. Its collection mainly consists of finds from wells, deposits, burials, workshops and sanctuaries. It is a veritable museum of the history of Democracy and is the place where in 2003 the Treaty of the European Union enlargement was signed. Adrianou 24, Thissio (+30) 210 3210185 Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00/ Mon 11:00-15:00 € Admission fee: € 4 Concessions: € 2

ARTS-GALLERIES Islamic Art Museum

National Gallery - Alexandros Soutzos Museum (Map K18

Evangelismos)

tion of the inscribed stone monuments. There pproximately 16,000 works of paintdic are also some Latin inscriptions and a small ings, sculpture, printmaking, drawing, a l c y M C EU S U number of Hebrew funerary inscriptions of new media and decorative art which span M ART ike a touch g the 16th and 17th centuries from Mystra the history of Greek art from the postl n i u v o i y l If our e (Peleponnese). Byzantine period to date. Amongst uity in y h of antiq pay a visit to t owned Tositsa 1, Exarchia the most acknowledged outside n e m roo It is r cas . p (+30) 210 8217637 Greece are the works by Domenikos o h s ’s epli museum Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00/ Closed Mon Theotokόpoulos (El Greco). However, nning rou could u t s s t i for t. Y r € Free admission A h no other folk painter has been hont i c i w d t of Cycla bine your visi osy oured since his death as much as the c m e o The War Museum also c ht meal in th nd self-taught Theophilos. On the ground ou a lig of the gr (Map K16 Evangelismos) floor of the gallery the cubist paintings m u i r t a floor. naugurated after the fall of the military of Nikos Hatzikyriakos-Ghikas are excepregime, in July 1975, the museum’s militationally presented. The National Gallery has ristic approach explores the Asia Minor campaign, the two shops selling books and quality gifts. Balkan Wars and the Greek forces in Korea. There is also a Vasileos Konstantinou 50, Evangelismos room dedicated to Cyprus. Other than that there is a col(+30) 210 7235857 lection of 18th and 19th century swords, handguns and Mon-Sun 09:00-15:30/ Wed 14:00-21:00/ Closed Tue € Admission fee: € 5 Concessions: € 3 military uniforms. The full-scale model of the Daedalus and the fighter planes in front of the entrance are worth seeing. Free admission: Holders of ICOM & AICA cards, The nearest metro station is “Evangelismos”. students of Fine Arts, children under 12 years old, Rizari 2, Evangelismos (+30) 210 7244464 people with special needs Tue-Fri 09:00-14:00/ Sun 09:30-14:00 Herakleidon - Experience in Visual Arts € Admission fee: € 2

National Historical Museum (Map J11

Syntagma)

his historic building is the first Greek House of Parliament, later turned into a museum. It provides an insight into the history of Greece since the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453. Among its most interesting exhibits are archival records, photographs, costumes and flags. The

40_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

(Map K4

Thissio)

picturesque private museum in the heart of Athens. A striking example of neoclassical architecture, which was renovated and inaugurated during the 2004 Summer Olympics. The exhibition program is loaded with works that play or have played an important role in the evolution of contemporary art. Don’t leave without a visit to the gift shop. It offers a wide selection of collectables that have been inspired by the periodic

Numismatic Museum of Athens

One step from the sh of ing ru madden e café is one th s, le ic h ces e v olest pla of the co mmer.Very in the su allyThursday often (usu jazz and evenings)bands ic n eth live. perform

(Map J11

Syntagma)

Tue-Sun: 08:30-15:00

When he wasn’t supervising excavations in the Peleponnese, Heinrich Schliemann –the so-called “father of Mycenaean and Trojan archaeology”– lived in downtown Athens. Iliou Melathron was built and designed by German architect Ernst Ziller, as the residence of the Schliemann family. Just off Syntagma square, the museum is distinguished for its enormous collection of coins, medals, as well as gems dating from Classical, Macedonian, Roman and Byzantine eras up to the foundation of the Modern Greek state. In the 800 sqm garden backyard, copies of ancient statues mingle with plants of the Greek flora. At the back of the garden a peaceful little café is accessible even if one doesn’t want to visit the museum.

Iliou Melathron, Panepistimiou 12 (+30) 210 3632057, 210 3612834, 210 3612872 Admission fee: € 3/ Concessions: € 2 Lift access for persons with mobility problems

visual arts exhibitions including M.C. Escher, Constantin Xenakis aspects of contemporary international art. By the end of 2013 and Toulouse-Lautrec. the National Museum of Contemporary Art will have moved to • Until 31.05 M. C. Escher - V. Vasarely: From the aesthetics of its permanent premises at the former Fix brewery. A remarkart to the logic of mathematics. able industrial building, which is reconstructed in accordance Herakleidon Museum presents an exhibition of works by M. with the edificial and functional demands of the Museum. Its C. Escher και V. Vasarely, from its permanent collections. strategic location close to the historic and commercial centre The works on display will be periodically renewed and were of Athens and the New Acropolis Museum favours the creation chosen along the theme of “Art and Mathematics”. The first of a grand promenade where classic antiquity meets contemfloor section is dedicated to Hungarian-born, French artist porary art. The exhibitions’ catalogues are reasonably priced Victor Vasarely (1906-1997), universally recognised as the and are usually bilingual (Greek and English). father of Op Art. Twenty-five of his serigraphs are on disVasileos Georgiou B 17-19 & Rigilis, Syntagma play. The second floor is dedicated to the work of Dutch print (+30) 210 9242111-3 Tue-Sun 11:00-19:00/ maker and graphic artist Maurits Cornelis Thu 11:00-22:00/ Closed Mon € Admission fee: € 3 Concessions: € 1.5 Escher (1898-1972). Approximately forty of his prints are on display. Fri 13:00-2:00, SatMunicipal Gallery of Athens Sun 11:00-19:00, Mon-Thu closed. (+30) 210 Herakleidon 16, Thissio (Map G4 Metaxourghio) 3461981 Tue-Sat 13:00-21:00/ Sun 11:00rimarily designed to become Ath19:00/ Closed Mon ens’ first indoor commercial cenee a virtual preview of three Ath€ Admission fee: € 6, Students & over 65 € 4 tre nowadays the gallery hosts nearly ens museums before arriving in Free admission: Children up to 12 years old 3,000 paintings from leading 19th and Greece. The Acropolis, the Benaki and the Museum of Cycladic Art are 20th century Greek artists. The recently the latest additions to the Google National Museum of renovated neoclassical building has a Art project. A project that offers Contemporary Art long history of identities. It was abana virtual and online presentation (Map L15 Evangelismos) doned until 1854 and later housed a silk of hundreds of museum exhibits ocated temporarily in the Athens Conserprocessing plant, a shopping and resifrom around the world. The three vatory, this museum fulfils the capital's dential complex, and the headquarters Greek museums participate in the long standing requirement for a modern art of the Hellenic Police. Of special interest Project with 693 exhibits. Just type museum. Since its opening in 2000 it remains are the drawings of German architect www.googleartproject.com true to its mission to showcase the transculErnst Ziller; the so-called father of neotural, experimental and thought-provoking classical design in modern Greece.

Zoom, scroll and click Athens Museums with the Google Art Project

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_41

The Ne w Be (Pireosnaki Museum 1 3 8 ) is of mod ern arc a paragon Des h Kokkin igned by arch itecture. itects M ou and a Andrea it opene s Ko ria d in latest e 2004, makinurkoulas, museum dition in Ath g it the en s strikin . Besides its v ian archite g and memor isually ctu ab renown ral style, it is ale ed for th lso em periodic exhibit any it hosts ions . • Until 02.05 The “George Economou Collection”. An exhibition focussing on surrealism, the School of Paris, art of the first post-war decade, Neo-Fauves as well as prints from the collection. The adjacent Avdi sq. is ideal for a quiet coffee and a newspaper read in the morning.

Leonidou & Mylerou, Metaxourgio

(+30) 210 3243023

€ Free admission

The New Benaki Museum (Map K1

Kerameikos)

vast industrial art space organised around a central courtyard. It is Athens’ window to contemporary art and design with no permanent collections. The Museum shop is so luminous and filled with unique pieces like items to decorate a flat or to enrich a library. The café-restaurant on the ground floor serves a good selection of dishes and is a good place for breakfast. Pireos 138, Rouf (+30) 210 3453111 Wed-Thu-Sun 10:00-18:00/ Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00/ Closed Mon-Tue

Islamic Art Museum (Map I5

Thissio)

three storey neoclassical building with collections dedicated to the evolution of Islamic art in relation to the historic development of Islamic civilisation. Its fine collections come from the Middle East, the Far East and North Africa. Located at Keramikos district the Islamic Art Museum offers a break from Classical Athens, temples and amphorae. However, it includes a section of the ancient city wall of Athens and an ancient tomb both uncovered at the level of the houses’ foundations during the preservation works. Don’t leave without a glimpse at the view from its terrace café. Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou 12, Thissio (+30) 210 3251311 Tue-Thu-Fri-Sat-Sun 09:00-15:00/ Wed 09:0021:00/ Closed Mon € Admission fee: € 7 Concessions: € 5

MISCELLANEOUS Ilias Lalaounis - Jewellery Museum (Map O7

Herakleidon - Experience in Visual Arts

Akropoli)

thens born and bred Ilias Lalaounis is the country’s most internationally renowned artist and jeweler.

He’s said to have the Midas touch. His museum is a private non-profit organisation devoted to the historical development of the art of jewellery. Its main edifice was the original workshop of Ilias Lalounis Company. The 4,000 pieces of the permanent collection will dazzle you. Kids, though, are more likely to get stuck at the authentic jewellery workshop where one can see the house goldsmiths in action sharing tips on ancient goldsmithery techniques. Big spenders usually head straight to the shop for 24K gifts. If you are frugal there are mugs and t-shirts with the museum’s logo. Karyatidon & Kalisperi 12, Plaka (+30) 210 9221044 Tue-Thu-Fri-Sat 09:00-15:00/ Sun 11:00-16:00/ Wed: 09:00-21:00/ Closed Mon € Admission fee: € 5 € Concessions: € 4 for students, senior citizens and groups

Melina Cultural Centre (Map K2

Kerameikos)

museum named after the late actress and Minister of Culture, Melina Merkouri who heralded the campaign for the return of the Parthenon Marbles presently in the British Museum. The old stone millinery of Poulopoulos is one of Athens best kept secrets – a hidden gem of a typical early 20th century Athenian neighborhood. It houses replicas of neoclassical buildings, a traditional barbershop, shop windows with original products of the time and the interior decoration of a bourgeois house. The cultural centre regularly houses periodic arts exhibitions. Heraklidon 16 & Thessalonikis, Gazi (+30) 210 3452150 Weekdays 10:00-20:00/ Sun 10:00-14:00/ Closed Mon € Free admission

Museum of Greek Folk Art (Map M10

Akropoli)

treasure trove of Greek folk embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes and household items. The highlight is on the first floor: a reconstructed room from a house on the island of Lesvos with a series of murals by the folk artist Theofilos. For pompom shoe (tsarouchia) aficionados, this museum is a paradise, as it features tsarouchia from all over Greece. The only downside is that the museum isn’t well lit and some items aren’t properly labelled. Kydathineon 17, Plaka (+30) 210 3229031 Tue-Sun: 08:00-15:00/ Closed Mon € Admission fee: € 2 Concessions: € 1 students from non-E.U. countries, senior citizens from E.U. Free admission: Persons under 19, EU students, classical studies and Art students.

Railway Museum of Athens

museum off the beaten track of Athens city centre. A real haven for the railway aficionados run by former employees of the National Railways. You will come across the famous “Μoutzouris” steam locomotive, the smoking carriage of the Sultan, as well as the royal car of King George I of Greece. Taking photographs of the exhibits or getting on the wagons isn’t allowed. However, the museum’s managers are not too strict and they are willing to turn a blind eye. So hop on! You can take the metro to station “Attiki” and then get on to bus line No 24 until “Praktoreia” stop. Siokou 4, Sepolia (+30) 210 5126295 Tue-Sun 9:00-13:00/ Wed 17:00-20:00 € Free admission CITY GUIDE summer 2012_43

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM An inspiring must-see museum for everyone. The meeting point between present and past. By LENA CHOURMOUZI Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

nder the sacred rock of Acropolis stands a spectacular museum with a mission: to house all the surviving antiquities from the Acropolis, under one roof of international stature. Located on Dionysiou Areopagitou str., this new museum –Athens’ latest and most modern piece of architecture– faces the monumental hill of the Acropolis. Long awaited, it is by far the most popular museum in the city, as its treasures include more than 50,000 pieces unearthed during excavations in Athens. Ιt ιs impossible not to feel its positive energy. What’s more, the variety of activities organised by the museum guarantee you will have a few truly fascinating hours. 44_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Every F the Acr riday o Museu m stays polis open un 2 2 :0 til 0a restaur ant untnd its il midn Enjoy a with be special me ight. au nu of the Atiful night view cropoli s an s great va lue for d money. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_45

“You can have a Van Gogh at the Metropolitan and another at the Louvre” says architect Bernard Tschumi who co-designed the new Acropolis Museum. But, the Parthenon Marbles are “one story. It’s got to be together at the same place and there’s no better place than here”.

Make ore it m r u yo visng. Take ti s e inter enge of the ll d the cha gists-hosts an e olo e tu a ta h s c r e a ot th try to spess Athena or d d o edusa, of g s like M odditie ancer or C ctryon. Hippole

Look, listen and learn

Follow the hosts’ tips

useum archaeologists-hosts hold brief presentations for history buffs every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The presentations are held both in Greek and English. Be warned, however, participation is limited (up to 20 visitors per session). Coupons are available on a first-come, first-served basis every Fri (15:00-18:00) and Sat, Sun (12:30-16:30) at the Information Desk. Another special treat: the 3D projections that take place every weekend.

e prepared, the museum’s hosts will follow you everywhere. They are told to. It’s not that they don’t trust visitors, it’s because they have all the good stories and the knowledge (and desire) to answer all your questions about the museum exhibits. Just look for staff wearing large red and white “archaeologist” badges in the Museum exhibition areas. We asked them for their tips to help you get the most out of your visit to the

■ Always

look down, or you’ll miss all the Indiana Jones-style workmen excavating under the cool glass floor ■ Visit the museum before you head for the Parthenon temple ■ Take the metro: the “Acropolis” station offers the best preview of what you’ll see in the museum ■ Mobile phones are only permitted in the museum lobby, restaurant and cafe areas ■ Photographs are not permitted in the museum exhibition areas ■ Book your tickets online at www. theacropolismuseum.gr to avoid queueing

46_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

museum. Here they are: > If you have a choice, avoid the hours between 10:00 and 14:00, when the museum gets flooded with cruise ship passengers and school groups. > Always begin the tour of the first floor from the northeast corner. Otherwise you won’t appreciate the significance of the Acropolis in the Mycenaean Period. > The second floor escalator offers the best panoramic view of the Archaic Gallery and the Gallery of the Slopes. Dionysiou Areopagitou 15 (+30) 210 9000900 (Map O8

Akropoli)

Public entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou/ For groups from Mitseon Tue-Sun 8:00-20:00 • Closed Mon € Admission Fee: € 5 € Concessions: € 3

AthensEpidaurus Festival 2012 No doubt the largest festival in Greece. Every year, some of the most significant troupes, dance groups, choreographers, musicians and singers come together from around the world to participate in this vast event. The cultures of the east, the west, the south and the north unite to produce a wide variety of works ranging from mainstream shows to ancient dramas and comedies. All theatres (from the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus and Odeon of Herodes Atticus to the Athens Concert Hall and Pireos 260) are filled with people of every age. By Dimitris Mastrogiannitis

Among others, this year we will have the chance to see...

Photo: Harris Billios

THEATRE

The famous Berliner Ensemble featuring 2 shows: “Einfach Kompliziert”, a monologue by Thomas Bernhard, and the performance of Bob Wilson based on 24 sonnets by Shakespeare, with music by Rufus Wainwright. The Royal Drama Theatre of Stockholm stages Strindberg’s “The Ghost Sonata”. Director Rodrigo Garcia launches an attack to the Catholic education system with his performance “Golgota Picnic”. The ancient tragedy “Oedipus Rex” by Sophocles, a new version of the tragedy “Electra” based on works by three different writers and four comedies of Aristophanes –“Nepheles/ The Clouds”, “Ippeis/ The Knights”, “Ornithes/ The Birds”, “Ecclesiazusae/ The Assemblywomen” – will be presented in the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus.

48_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

When t his was goi guide ng to pri of the A nt, the schedu t festival hens-Epidau le announ had not ye rus t bee ced on date. For informa n ti s check and tickets, on www.gr the website eek or call festival.gr ( 210 928+30) 2900

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_49

Tout va bien

Photo: Marc Domage

MUSIC The adaptation of Verdi’s opera “Aida”, “Yasou Aida”, will be staged by the Neukoellner Opera in cooperation with the Thessaloniki Concert Hall (Megaron). An extremely humorous show satirising the relationships among Greece, Germany and the European Union. “Il Trovatore” by Verdi, from the National Opera. The Russian group Musica Aeterna will give a concert, while the ballet group from the city Perm will present drama dances with music by Stravinsky (“Weddings” and “Petruska”). A tribute to the American composer John Cage and to his work with choreographer Merce Cunningham. The Venice Baroque Opera performs Metastasio’s “L'Olimpiade” (The Olympiad).

Golgota Picnic

Photo: David Ruano

DANCE “Tout va bien”. The choreography of Alain Buffard is characterized by emancipation and a reaction to suppression. The famous Berliner choreographer Sasha Waltz presents the performance “Continu”. Zimmermann & de Perrot combine dance, acrobatics, music and theatre in their show “Hans was Heiri”. Brothers Ali Thabet and Hedi Thabet from Tunisia attempt an exploration of the Sufi world in their show “Rayahzone”. Julie Nioche negotiates the absence of gravity in “Nos solitudes”. The ballet group of the Marinski Theatre presents “Don Quixote” (Odeon of Herodes Atticus).

Ticket information Ticket centre

Panepistimiou 39 (Map H10 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 7234567 Mon-Fri 08:30-16:00/ Sat 09:00-14:30

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Yasou Aida

50_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Photo: Dimitris Andritsos

Dionisiou Areopagitou, Makrigianni (Map N6 Akropoli) (+30) 210 232771 Mon-Sun 09:00-14:00/ 18:00-21:00

Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus (Argolida Prefecture) (+30) 27530 23009 Mon-Thu 09:00-14:00/ Fri-Sat 09:30-21:30 www.greekfestival.gr

Onassis Cultural Centre A spectacular contemporary Greek experience

Don’t miss 18-20.05 Schaubuhne Berlin, “Protect me”. The

Schaubuhne Berlin

performance of the world-class theatre is a critique and a deep, poetic glance at the consequences of the global crisis on interpersonal and professional relationships of young people. € 15, 18, 28 24-27.05 Zoe Dimitriou, “You May!”. The Greek choreographer who thrives in London investigates the limits of tolerance and the margins of risk in our society. € 18 Until 01.07 “Faces”. An exhibition with works by Pierpaolo Campanini, Lucas Samaras, Thomas Schütte, Cindy Sherman, Margherita Manzelli et al. It is inspired from the eponymous movie by John Cassavetes. Exhibition curator: Paolo Colombo. € 8. - Dimitris Mastrogiannitis

Photo: Kostas MItropoulos

e won’t hide it: we are proud for Onassis Cultural Centre. First, because it placed Athens firmly on the global map of cities with architecturally exciting buildings. Designed by the Architecture Studio, following an international competition, the building appears to be in a constant interplay with the movement of light. However, the main reason for the success of the Centre lies within its cultural agenda. Here you will meet culture-savvy Athenians who come to watch avant-garde and contemporary performances, exhibitions and concerts from Greece and abroad. Onassis Cultural Centre also delivers in the art of food. In its restaurant, Hytra (+30 217 7071118 & 210 3316767) you can taste excellent Greek cuisine, awarded a Michelin star, and wine from a rich list of Greek producers, whilst enjoying a breathtaking view of the city. We kept the best part for last. Fro mid-June onwards, you can sit in the terrace and choose among the restaurant Hytra, a bistrot for light dinners and a big bar. All the ingredients for a magical night are there: the lit city, Acropolis and Lycabettus on the background, the sea at your feet, a light breeze through your hair, your palate satisfied, the heart-warming memory of the exhibition “Faces”, drink and music, all these will give you a night to remember and cherish. One you can look back to and make beam with a smile.

Hytra

Sygrou 107-109 (Map Q7

Sygrou-Fix)

(+30) 210 9005800 • www.sgt.gr

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_51

Technopolis

DAVID PLISSON, 2004

Pireos 100 (Map J1 Kerameikos) (+30) 210 3475 518

Events in Technopolis “SOCRATES NOW” Plato’s “The Apology of Socrates” in English

eneath the rock of Acropolis, Plato’s classic text “The Apology of Socrates” comes to life in an English-speaking performance. The audience, just like the Greeks of 339 BC, will watch from their seats, as Socrates will defend himself against politically motivated charges for atheism and corruption of youths, providing arguments with regard to justice and citizens’ duties. The role of Socrates will be performed by Emmy Award winnerYannis Simonides. Director: Loukas N. Skipitaris. Costumes: Oscar and Tony Award Winner TheoniV.Aldredge. University of Athens Museum (airy courtyard with views at the Acropolis), Tholou 5, Plaka (Map M7 Akropoli) 24-30 Jun & 693 4438748 , 1-7 Jul, 21:00, €15 booking: www.ticketservices.gr

or a cool stroll in Athens you must visit Technopolis an industrial museum and a major cultural venue dedicated to the memory of the great Greek composer Manos Hatzidakis, in the neighbourhood of Gazi, next to Keramikos and very close to the Acropolis. Technopolis is situated in the city’s former gasworks that was founded in 1857, occupying an area of about 30,000 sqm. During the summer, numerous cultural activities take place in the area. Check out the 12th European Jazz Festival (23.05-27.05) with great jazz and nu-jazz groups from different European countries and the “100% Made in Italy” Festival (25.0527.05) dedicated to artists and products from Italy, both with free entrance. Swing night on the 28th of May with Greek music groups like Vanilla Swing, Penny & the Swingin’ Cats and Nastazia & the Jazzuars swinging for hope as all proceeds will go to the benefit of a non-governmental organization supporting the homeless. Greek pianist and composer Lena Platonos was one of the pioneers of the Electronic music scene of the 80s in Athens. On the 30th of May she will perform live with special guests ECM artist Savina Yannatou, Giannis Palamidas and the anti-hero rock icon of the youth Giannis Aggelakas. Finally, get the chance to see live on the 30th of June one of the most recognizable modern composers of the Balkans Goran Bregoviç. If you want to have an idea of the contemporary Greek music scene take note of the following dates:

05.06 Lakis Papadopoulos (Greek rock) 09.06 Vodka Juniors (rock) 20.06 Nikos Portokaloglou (folk rock) 22.06 Maraveyas Ilegal (folk, latin, reggae, world music) 26.06 The Burger Project (wicked funk covers) 03.07 Imam Baildi (a unique blend of rebetiko and electro) 04.07 Locomondo (reggae and ska) 05.07 Mode Plagal (fusion jazz) - GEORGE DIMITRAKOPOULOS

52_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Athens Fringe Festival F

23-27/5

orget Edinburgh and its famous Fringe Festival, this year Athens is the place to be! For the past three years, dozens of artistic communities meet every year in Athens Fringe Festival, a non-curated event that comprises theatre, music, dance, paint-

12th European Jazz Festival

The European Jazz Festival is one of the most popular spring festivals in Athens.You will see Athenians lie on the lawns of Technopolis, drinking beer and enjoying jazz musicians from around Europe.

ing, photography and other activities. Activities are held in Technopolis and other venues, ranging from squares and streets to hotels and bar theatres. Admission will be free if the festival covers its expenses via crowd-funding, otherwise there will be an admission fee around â&#x201A;Ź 5. - DIMITRA TRIANTAFYLLOU

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_53

“Medea Redux” An avantgarde play

monologue by acclaimed American playwright Neil LaBute, “Medea Redux” is a reworking of the archetypal myth of Medea, which tackles the sensitive issue of violence and seduction in adolescence. The 28-year old heroine of the play, once seduced by her teacher in middle school, is now under interrogation for the murder of her child. The play maps out the dark underbelly of human psychology, in an English-speaking performance starring Zoe Mylonas and directed by Maria Xanthopoulidou. Poreia Theatre: Trikorfon 3-5 & 3rd Septemvriou 69, Near Victoria sq. (Map A9 Victoria) (+30) 210 8210991 Wed 20:30, Thu-Sat 22:00 / From 16.05 € Admission fee: €10 • www.poreiatheatre.com

Athens Concert Hall Megaron

Noa

Vasilissis Sofias & Kokali (Map E21 Megaro Moussikis) (+30) 210 7282333 www.megaron.gr

he Megaron, counting twenty years of life, consists of four large rooms with capacities of 1961, 1750, 450 and 400 people respectively. It has hosted great operas, classical orchestras, choreographers, directors and significant worldclass musicians and singers ranging from operas and jazz style to ethnic. Furthermore, it holds productions in cooperation with some of the largest operas in the world. Among others, you can watch the following:

54_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

22, 23, 24, 26, 27.05 Concert by George Dalaras and Noa (Israel) with Mediterranean music. 25, 26.05 The English National Ballet will perform parts from various famous works. 06.06 Even though it is in Greek, don’t miss out on the Poetic Night in the open-air garden of the Megaron where poets read their work to guests that lie in the grass under a clear summer sky (Free admission).

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_55

“The Greek Monsters" by Betroot Design& Partners, αt Benaki Museum Until 29.07

56_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Cycladic figurine, from the permanent exhibition at the Museum of Cycladic Art

Exit past enter future Athenian summer is a haven for modern

art

By DIMITRA TRIANTAFYLLOU

From May to late September, Athens is an oasis of culture. Museums, galleries and multithemed cultural spaces welcome Athenians and visitors alike with a rich variety of events.

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_57

MuseumS Benaki Museum Building at Pireos str. n annex of the main Benaki Museum, this stylish, modern building houses several fascinating exhibitions of contemporary art. ● George Vartholomaios, “Lavrium: The settings of a place”. Until 20.05. A photographic exhibition about the famous mines of Lavrium, the foremost mining area of Greece. ● Sean Scully, “Doric”. Until 15.07. Six massive paintings inspired by the Doric order, one of the three systems of ancient classical architecture. ● “From Picasso to Koons. Artist’s Jewellery”. 16.05 - 02.09. A selection of jewellery designed by major artists of 20th and 21st century, including Stephen Antonakos, Yoko Ono, Pablo Picasso, Jeff Koons and Man Ray. ● Works by Antela and Kyriakos Kyriakides. 18.05 - 29.07. Photographs and designs by one of the major architectural duos of Greece. ● Edy Ferguson. 01.06 - 29.07. A comprehensive exhibition by the London-based artist who employs a variety of techniques, from installation to performance. Pireos 138 & Andronikou (Map K15 Kerameikos) (+30) 210 3453111

Museum of Cycladic Art Ioannis Lasithiotakis: At the Byzantine and Christian Museum

Don’t miss

Face to Face - A Collector and the Artists

n exhibition of 200 self-portraits of artists, as well as portraits of collector Vlassis Frissiras. At Frissiras Museum. Until 30.09. Moni Asteriou 3, Plaka

● Jannis Kounellis. Until 30.09. In his first solo exhibition in Greece after many years, Kounellis tackles the history of Greece and its people, in the midst of the economic and social crisis. ● Ugo Rondinone. May-October 2012. Seven new sculptures by the Swiss artist, designed to reflect their surroundings. Vasilissis Sofias and Herodotou 1 (Map K15

Evangelismos)

(+30) 210 7228321

Byzantine and Christian Museum ● Ioannis Lasithiotakis. Until 03.06. Thirty studies of the human figure by one of the most illustrious contemporary artists of Greece. Vasilissis Sofias 22 (Map K14 Evangelismos) (+30) 213 2139572

Herakleidon Museum ● “M. C. Escher - V. Vasarely: From the aesthetics of art to the logic of mathematics”. Serigraphs and prints of two notable artists, from the permanent collection of the museum. Iraklidon 16 (Map K4 Thissio) (+30) 210 3461981

DESTE Foundation for Contemporary Art ● “Collecting Architecture – Territories: The Athens Minutes”. A collaboration between DESTE and Columbia University’s Graduate School of Architecture, Planning & Preservation on the topic of Collecting Architecture — Territories. Filellinon 11 & Emmanouil Pappa (+30) 210 2758490

Galleries Fizz Gallery “M. C. Escher – V. Vasarely: From the aesthetics of art to the logic of mathematics”, Herakleidon Museum 58_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

A gallery that frequently features new names of the Greek art scene. Valaoritou 9A (Map J12 Syntagma) (+30) 210 3607598

Astrolavos-Artlife

Photography Create your

The pop and design side of Athenian art. Herodotou 11 (Map J15 Evangelismos) (+30) 210 7221200

Holiday Memories

Genesis The best place for exhibitions by Scandinavian artists. Charitos 35 (Map I16 Evangelismos) (+30) 211 7100566

Thanassis Frissiras Gallery Excellent exhibitions of representational art. Kriezotou 7 (Map J11 Syntagma) (+30) 210 3640288

Zoumboulakis Gallery Various well-known artists often present their works here. Kolonaki sq. 20 (Map J14 Evangelismos) (+30) 210 3608278

Interesting exhibitions ● Dan Colen, “Βlowin’ in the Wind”, Gagosian Gallery. Until 25.05. Pop art and “trash” go side by side in this transgressive exhibition. Merlin 3 (Map K12 Syntagma) (+30) 210 3640215 ● “Logotherapy Project”, Dezaar. Until 27.05. An assemblage of logos designed by famous Greek artists, which provide social commentary on contemporary Greece. Konstantinoupoleos 42 (+30) 213 0053340 ● “Siga Siga”, Camp. Until 30.05. Fourteen contemporary

oin a small class taught by a professional photographer at New School Athens Photography. Learn how to use your camera; image composition and portfolio creation. Discover Athens’ hidden angles. Learn how to print your own Photo Album to take home! (optional). Course duration – 4 hours (half day –30/hour or 120 euros), 8 hours (two half days –25/ hour or 200 euros). Bookings through www.newschoolathens.org and or by calling +30 210 5243694.

Austrian artists meet in Athens. Apelou 2 (Map G8 Omonia) (+30) 210 3247679 ● Lynda Benglis, Kappatos Gallery. Until 31.05. The comeback of a major artist. Athinas 12 (Map J7 Monastiraki) (+30) 210 3217931

omena”” n e h p o c E “ “Utopraxia and e Art at TAFn/dtahtion Fou

AF is not a place you would easily discover if you hadn't been told. You get through a little wooden door in the area of Monastiraki to view a breathtaking Athenian courtyard dating back to 1870. The building is now transformed into an independent cultural space: one of the busiest and more accessible art establishments in the city and a great place to see exhibitions showing the latest trends in the Greek and international art scene. During the summer TAF

becomes even more attractive with visitors combining the pleasure of art with that of enjoying refreshing cocktails under the trees of the inner courtyard. The forthcoming exhibitions, “Utopraxia” and “Ecophenomena”, opening on 21 June, present diverge interpretations of the recent state of affairs through conceptual art, architectural installations and interdisciplinary projects that suggest inventive ideas and practices for a promising future potential.

Normanou 5, Monastiraki Duration: 21.06 - 02.09 Admission free

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_59

HOSPITABLE

CITY

N.J.V. Athens Plaza

A luxurious, yet affordable hotel with the best location you can get in Athens, right on Syntagma square. Spacious rooms, modern amenities and exceptional personalised service will make your stay unforgettable. Even if you don’t stay there, you can enjoy a delicious light lunch in the cool Lounge bar or an superb Mediterranean dinner with a great view of the square in the more formal “Parliament” restaurant. ( Map K11 Syntagma) |No of Rooms 182 | No of Beds 336 Vasileos Georgiou 2, Athens (+30) 210 3352400 | www.njvathensplaza.gr

Grand Resort Lagonissi Location Lagonissi | No of Rooms 346/No of Beds 689 40th Km AthinonSouniou (+30) 22910 76000 | www.lagonissiresort.gr Grande Bretagne

N.J.V. Athens Plaza

The best hotels in Athens By MARO ZINA

thens offers its visitors a comprehensive range of accommodation, as you’d expect from a city of its size. There are about 500 hotels throughout the greater Athens area, spanning all categories to suit all budgets from luxurious five star resorts to cheap and cheerful youth hostels.

Arion Luxury Collection Resort & Spa

(Map K11

Syntagma)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 320 | No of Beds 594 Syntagma sq. (+30) 210 3330000 | www.grandebretagne.gr

Location Vouliagmeni | No of Rooms 239 | No of Beds 462 Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni (+30) 210 8902000 | www.arionresortathens.com

Metropolitan Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 374 | No of Beds 698 Sygrou 385 (+30) 210 9471000 | www.chandris.gr

Athenaeum Intercontinental (Map Q8

Park (Map A11 Victoria) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 152 | No of Beds 271 Alexandras 10 (+30) 210 8894500 | www.athensparkhotel.gr

Sygrou-Fix)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 559 | No of Beds 1,086 Sygrou 89-93 (+30) 210 9206000 | www.ichotelsgroup.com

Athens Imperial

(Map F5

Metaxourghio)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 263 | No of Beds 482 M. Alexandrou 2-6 (+30) 210 5201600 | www.classicalhotels.com

Baby Grand

(Map G8

Omonia) Location Athens City

Center | No of Rooms 76 | No of Beds 121 Athinas 65 & Lykourgou (+30) 210 3250900 | www.babygrandhotel-athens.com

Crowne Plaza

(Map J21

Megaro Moussikis)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 193 | No of Beds 334 Mihalakopoulou 50 (+30) 210 7278000 | www.cpathens.com

Electra Palace

(Map L10

Syntagma)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 155/ No of Beds 291 Navarchou Nikodimou 18 (+30) 210 3370000 | www.electrahotels.gr 60_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Saint George Lycabettus

(Map I15)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 154 | No of Beds 305 Kleomenous 2 (+30) 210 7290711-19 | www.sglycabettus.gr

Art Suites Athens Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 11 | No of Beds 25 Sevastias 3 & Michalakopoulou 88A, Ilisia (+30 210 7473177) | www.artsuitesathens.gr

Alexandros

(Map F22

Megaro Moussikis) Location Athens

City Center | No of Rooms 96/No of Beds 174 Timoleontos Vassou 8, Ampelokipi (+30) 210 6430464 | www.airotel.gr

Parthenon (Map O9 Akropoli) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 79 | No of Beds 148 Makri 6, Plaka (+30) 210 9234594 | www.airotel.gr Stratos Vassilikos (Map G23

Megaro Moussikis)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 88 | No of Beds 163 Mihalakopoulou 114 (+30) 210 7706611 | www.airotel.gr

Art Hotel Athens (Map D8 Omonia) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 30 | No of Beds 56 Marni 27 (+30) 210 5240501 | www.arthotelathens.gr Athens Atrium ( Neos Kosmos) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 56 | No of Beds145 Okeanidon 21 (+30) 210 9319300-4 | www.athensatrium.gr Athens Lotus (Map D5 Metaxourghio) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 31 | No of Beds 62 Chiou 9 (+30) 210 5249050 | www.athenslotushotel.gr AVA Hotel & Suites (Map N9 Akropoli) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 23 | No of Beds 38 Lisikratous 9-11 (+30) 210 3259000 | www.avahotel.gr Coral Location Paleo Faliro | No of Rooms 88/

Luxurious Furnished Apartments

No of Beds 156 Posidonos 35 www.coralhotel.gr

(+30) 210 9816441 |

(Map I21

Megaro Moussikis)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 29/ (+30) 210 7278000 | No of Beds 58 Arnis 4 www.holiday-suites.com

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_61

Athens Hilton

An immense fitness centre, a beauty salon, barberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shop, cigar store,and jewelry store are all at your service in Athens Hilton. But its highlights during the summer, whether you stay there or not, are its fantastic pool and the elegant Galaxy Bar. ( Map K19 Evangelismos) |No of Rooms 506 | No of Beds 892 Vasilissis Sofias 46 (+30) 210 7281000 | www.hiltonathens.gr

Stanley (Map E5 Metaxourghio) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 395 | No of Beds 714 Odisseos 1 (+30) 210 5241611-18 | www.hotelstanley.gr The Athenian Callirhoe (Map Q8 Sygrou-Fix) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 84 | No of Beds 173 Kallirois 32 & Petmeza (+30) 210 9215353 | www.tac.gr Titania

(Map G9

Omonia) Location Athens City Center |

No of Rooms 398 | No of Beds 754 Panepistimiou 52 (+30) 210 3326000 | www.titania.gr

Tropical Location Alimos | No of Rooms 30 | No of Beds 54 Posidonos 74 (+30) 210 9813993/4 | www.tropicalhotel.gr Zafolia

(Map B17) Location Athens City Center |

No of Rooms 191 | No of Beds 350 Alexandras 87-89 (+30) 210 6449002 | www.zafoliahotel.gr

Oasis Location Glyfada | No of Rooms 70 | No of Beds 134 Posidonos 27 www.oasishotel.gr

(+30) 210 8941662 |

Ilissia (Map K19

Evangelismos / Megaro Moussikis)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 91 | No of Beds 166 Mihalakopoulou 25 (+30) 210 7244051-6 | www.ilisiahotel.gr

Novotel Athenes (Map C7 Larissa Station) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 195 | No of Beds 361 Michail Voda 4-6 (+30) 210 8200700 | www.novotelathens.gr Fresh Hotel (Map H7 Omonia) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 133 | No of Beds 253 Sofokleous 26 & Klisthenous 2 (+30) 210 5248511-6 | www.freshhotel.gr 3*

Achilleas

(Map J10

Syntagma) Location Athens City

Center | No of Rooms 34/No of Beds 74 Leka 21, Syntagma (+30) 210 3233197 | www.achilleashotel.gr

Athens Center Square

(Map H7

Syntagma)

Location Monastiraki | No of Rooms 54 | No of Beds 108 Aristogitonos 15 (+30) 210 3211770 | www.athenscentersquarehotel.gr

Attalos (Map K10 Syntagma) Location Monastiraki | No of Rooms 54/No of Beds 108 Athinas 29 (+30) 210 3212801 | www.attaloshotel.com Museum (Map C11 Victoria / Omonia) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 93 | No of Beds 175 Bouboulinas & Tositsa 16 (+30) 210 3805611-3 | www.museum-hotel.gr

Periscope (Map I5) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 22 | No of Beds 190 Haritos 22 (+30) 210 7297200 | www.yeshotels.gr

Golden Sun Location Glyfada | No of Rooms 60 | No of Beds 112 Metaxa 72 (+30) 210 8981353-6 | www.goldensun.gr

Amalia (Map L11 Omonia) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 97 | No of Beds 188 Amalias 10 (+30) 210 3237301-9 | www.amalia.gr

King Jason Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 114 | No of Beds 220 Kolonou 26 (+30) 210 5234721 | ww.douros-hotels.com

Amarilia Location Vouliagmeni | No of Rooms 100 | No of Beds 185 Agiou Nikolaou 13 (+30) 210 8990391 | www.amarilia.gr

Pan (Map K10 Syntagma) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 33/No of Beds 63 Mitropoleos 11 (+30) 210 3237.816 | www.panhotel.gr

Delice Hotel (Map L19 Evangelismos) Location Athens Plaka Hotel (Map K10 Syntagma) Location City Center | No of Rooms 44 | No of Beds 77 Plaka - Monastiraki | No of Rooms 69 | No of Beds Vasileos Alexandrou 3 & Vrassida 123 Kapnikareas & Mitropoleos 7 d n a (+30) 210 7238311-3 | www.delice.gr (+30) 210 3222096 | www.plakahotel.gr Smart Golden Age

(Map I21

Megaro Moussikis)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 122/No of Beds 226 Michalakopoulou 57 (+30) 210 7240861-9 | www.goldenage.gr

Hera Hotel

(Map Q8

Sygrou-Fix)

ble affordadation o accomm: Luxurious ns in Athe rnished Fu +30 ents: 7 m t r a p 8 A 07 693700

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 37 | No of Beds 74 Falirou 9 (+30) 210 9236682 | www.herahotel.gr

Herodion (Map P7

Akropoli) Location Athens City Center |

No of Rooms 90 | No of Beds 171 Rovertou Gali 4 (+30) 210 9236832-6 | www.herodion.gr 62_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Philippos Hotel

(Map P7

Akropoli)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 48 | No of Beds 84 Mitseon 3, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9223611-4 | www.philipposhotel.gr

Niki Hotel (Map L10 Syntagma) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 24 | No of Beds 45 Nikis 27 (+30) 210 3220913-5 | www.nikihotel.gr Arion Athens Hotel

(Map I7

Monastiraki, Omonia)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 51 | No of Beds 86 Agiou Dimitriou 18 (+30) 210 3240415 | www.arionhotel.gr

Omiros Hotel (Map L9 Syntagma) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 37 | No of Beds 60 Apollonos 15 (+30) 210 3235486-7 | www.omiroshotel.gr Acropolis Select (Map Q7

Sygrou-Fix)

Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 72 | No of Beds 137 Falirou 37-39 (+30) 210 9211611 | www.acropoliselect.gr

Adrian Hotel (Map L8 Syntagma) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 22 | No of Beds 44 Adrianou 74 (+30) 210 3221553 | www.douros-hotels.com Arethusa Hotel (Map K10 Syntagma) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 87 | No of Beds 158 Mitropoleos 6-8 & Nikis 12 (+30) 210 3229431-8 | www.arethusahotel.gr Dorian Inn Hotel (Map G7 Omonia) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 146 | No of Beds 287 Pireos 15-17 (+30) 210 5239782 | www.dorianinnhotel.com Iniohos Hotel (Map E8 Metaxourghio) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 134 | No of Beds 250 Veranzerou 26 (+30) 210 5230811-5 | www.iniohoshotel.gr Jason Inn Hotel (Map I5 Monastiraki) Location Athens City Center | No of Rooms 53 | No of Beds 98 Asomaton 12-14 (+30) 210 3251106-8 | www.douros-hotels.com

HOSTELS Athens Backpackers (Map P9

Akropoli)

Location Athens City Center Makri 12 (+30) 210 9224044 | www.backpackers.gr

Athenstyle (Map J7

Monastiraki) Location Athens

City Center Agias Theklas 10 www.athenstyle.com

Dioskouros

(Map N10

(+30) 210 3225010 |

Akropoli, Syntagma)

Location Athens City Center Pitakou 6 (+30) 210 3248165 | www.hotelfivos.gr

The Student and Travellers Inn

(Map M9

Akropoli /

Kidathineon 16 (+30) 210 3244808 | www.studenttravellersinn.com

Syntagma) Location Athens City Center

APARTMENTS Athens Studios

(Map Q7

City Center Veikou 3A www.athensstudios.gr

EP16

(Map H6

Epikourou 16

Akropoli) Location Athens (+30) 210 9235811 |

Monastiraki) Location Athens City Center

(+30) 210 3225010 | www.athenstyle.com

Luxurious Furnished Apartments Akropoli) Location Athens City Center Chatzichristou (+30) 6937 000787

(Map P8

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_63

Restaurants The best food in the city...

By NENELA GEORGELE - ZIZI SFYRI • Ιllustration: CINA MOUTAFIDOU

Eating in Greece is a treat for the senses. In recent years, culinary tourism has been on the rise as the world learns to appreciate the delights and health benefits of the Mediterranean diet. Throughout the capital you’ll find a range of eateries representing the country’s gastronomic scene – from traditional tavernas serving good homely Greek cuisine “just like Mama used to make it”, to chic restaurants serving up great dishes with a modern, creative twist. And, of course, the city also has many bar-restaurants, fast casual outlets, and a wide choice of international cuisine to satisfy any visitor’s appetite.

€ below 15 €€ 15-25 €€€ 25-35 €€€€ 35+

GREEK TRADITIONAL

Extra virgin olive oil, fresh seasonal vegetables, greens and herbs, crispy pies and juicy roasts, fresh fish and seafood are some of the ingredients that have established the Greek cuisine as one of the best in the world. You will find it in all tavernas and restaurants throughout the city. Vlassis

t is only two years since the restaurant reopened in its new, plain and simple space with an “intellectual” touch, but its passion for original Greek food remains intact. Splendid cooked dishes, and even better grilled or fried seafood. Closed on Sundays. €€ Meandrou 15, Ilissia (+30) 210 7256335

Butcher Shop (Map J1

Kerameikos)

modern taverna with extraordinary meat specialties and a great variety of domestic products. One of the few where you can enjoy the simple pleasure of eggs and potatoes. Fair prices, amazingly crowded. €€ Persefonis 19, Gazi (+30) 210 3413440

Asty 68 (Map J1

Kerameikos)

n original coffee joint reminiscent of the old days, dressed up in a modern suit. The smell of Greek coffee grains roasting on the embers and sweet spoon treats in the morning, traditional recipes from all around Greece and cocktails at the bar until late in the night. € Konstantinoupoleos 68, Gazi (+30) 210 3229452

Daphne's (Map N9

Kerameikos)

iscreet service and sophisticated Greek dishes in this beautiful neo-classical house. Many important personalities from the domestic and international political scene have dined on its tables and in its beautiful open yard. €€€ Lysikratous 4, Plaka (+30) 210 3227971

Tirbouson (Map F2

Kerameikos)

right, youthful and always “smiling”, with original and a unique décor, open kitchen serving genuine Greek delights, an interesting wine list and a cosy terrace from where you can watch the trains go by. Mon-Thu 17:00-01:00, Fri-Sun 14:00-01:00. €€ Konstantinoupoleos 104, Keramikos (+30) 210 341007 CITY GUIDE summer 2012_65

FINE DINING

Spondi (Map Q14) The most acclaimed restaurant in town,

Spondi already has 2 Michelin stars and many international awards to its credit. It has the best wine list in Greece, a fact that earned the restaurant yet another special award. Avant-garde contemporary French cuisine and great desserts. €€€€ Pyronos 5, Pagrati

(+30) 210 7520658, 210 7564021

Funky Gourmet (Map G3 Kerameikos) The food here is inspired by contemporary art and novelty, and you’ll find pioneering spirit and extra thought behind every culinary creation. Chefs are Georgianna Chiliadaki and Nikos Roussos. The setting is beautiful. €€€€ Paramithias 13 & Salaminos, Keramikos (+30) 210 5242727

Varoulko (Map I4 Kerameikos) Lefteris Lazarou is Greece’s star cook. Winner of multiple awards, including a Michelin star, he is a multi-tasker, restaurant business owner and TV personality. His cooking mostly features seafood with a creative twist. €€€€ Pireos 80, Keramikos (+30) 210 5228.400

Matsuhisa Athens In other words, Japan in Greece.

Both the Athenian and the Mykonian branches meet the highest standards for sushi. Highlights: black cod, nice cocktails, fantastic location on the sea front. €€€€ Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni

(+30) 210 8960510

Blue Hytra Second-time winner of a Michelin star this year, this restaurant shines with its flamboyant chef’s personality: Nikos Karathanos, who takes a Mediterranean approach to every dish. €€€ Westin Athens Hotel, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni (+30) 210 8902000

Electra Restaurant (Map L10 Akropoli) Chef Giorgos Venieris transforms classic Greek cuisine into something more. Beautiful veranda with a view of the Acropolis. €€€ Electra Palace Hotel, Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka

Milos Estiatorio ((Map K19

(+30) 210 3370000

Inside the Hilton Hotel, minimal ambience, fish and seafood experts. Fixed lunch menu at good prices. €€€€ Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis

Sofias 46

Evangelismos)

(+30) 210 7244400

Cibus (Map M12

Syntagma) Chef Dimitris Dimitriadis has

drawn on his experience working at “Noma” (twice voted the best restaurant in the world) to give Cibus a similar attitude honouring refined versions of traditional Greek cuisine. Inside the Zapio National Garden, with a view of the Acropolis. €€€€ Egli Zapiou

(+30) 210 3369364

G.B. Corner (Map K11 Syntagma) Chef Sotiris Evangelou adds style to nouvelle Greek cuisine. A modern perspective of urban. Inside the impressive Grande Bretagne Hotel. €€€€ Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma sq. & Panepistimiou 210 3330000

KUZINA (Map K5

(+30)

Thissio) Stylish modern taverna with fu-

sion dishes from chef Aris Tsanaklides. Continue your night with a drink up on the roof while enjoying the breathtaking view of Acropolis and the Temple of Hephaestus. €€€€ Adrianou 9, Thissio

(+30) 210 3240133

athiri (Map H3

Kerameikos) One of the finest restaurants of the city, also has an incredibly beautiful garden. The multiawarded, young owner-chef Alexis Kardasis produces a fresh version of Greek cuisine. Thu-Sat 20:00-01:30, Sun evening & Mon closed. €€€ Plateon 15, Gazi (+30) 210 3462983

66_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Dimokritos (Map I13

Panepistimio)

ts tables carry the weight of many years of history and thrilling memories of prominent Greek intellectuals enjoying its delicious food. And one more good reason to be there – Greek cuisine at its best. € Dimokritou 23 & Tsakalof, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3613588, 210 3619293

Kanella (Map J1

Kerameikos)

his is where you will find artistic and trendy crowds who can’t turn their back on “mama’s” cooking. The good prices and the fact that it serves all day until late at night are both reasons for its success. € Konstantinoupoleos 70, Gazi (+30) 210 3476320

Mamacas (Map J1

Kerameikos)

t has redefined the concept “modern Greek taverna”. In simple terms, this means nothing less than lovingly prepared food. A standard lunch meeting point on Saturdays. €€€ Persefonis 41, Gazi (+30) 210 3464984

Ouzadiko (To) (Map J16

Evangelismos)

ere is where Athenians meet to enjoy the original flavours of Greece. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€ Karneadou 25-59 (Lemos Shopping Center), Kolonaki (+30) 210 7295484

Skoufias (Map L1

Kerameikos)

n this part of the city, once an industrial zone but today a colourful parade of restaurants and clubs, you’ll find “Skoufias” in a quiet narrow street. Pick one of the tables around the churchyard and order Greek and Cretan treats from its charming menu-catalogue that looks like a school notebook. Low prices. € Megalou Vasiliou 50, Rouf (+30) 210 3412252

Strofi (Map O6

Akropoli)

ne of the oldest urban tavernas, right across the imposing walls of Odeon of Herodes Atticus. No better place to dine

greek tastes Greek food, like any other Mediterranean cuisine, is based on virgin olive oil, fresh products, the aromatic herbs of the Greek countryside and the talent of its cooks. Some of the most famous Greek tastes are...

Taverna Tou Psara (Map M8

Akropoli)

ne of Plaka’s traditional meeting points. Fine Greek cuisine and a friendly, cheerful attitude. Open every day, from noon till night. €€ Erehtheos 16, Plaka (+30) 210 3218733-4

Filippou (Map I15

Evangelismos)

his historic restaurant will serve you wonderful, “mama’s” food in very good prices. Saturday night and Sunday closed. €€ Xenokratous 19, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7216390

Myrovolos (Map F4

Koulouri A small bread ring coated in sesame seeds. It is a traditional Greek favourite street food sold from small stands around the city.

Metaxourghio)

ne of the best-known haunts of the area, it draws a primarily young clientele. Open from morning, with tables outside, for coffee, alcohol or Greek cuisine. Relaxed vibe and good music that keeps people until late at night. € Giatrakou 12, Metaxourgio (+30) 210 5228806

Gods' Restaurant (Map P8

Akropoli)

ou will find this taverna very close to the Acropolis museum, at the area of Makrigianni. This is your choice if you are up for some Greek homemade food, in a family environment, with a very friendly service. € Makrigianni 23-27, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9233721

GREEK CREATIVE Souvlaki The quintessential street food – loved by Greeks and tourists alike. You can find souvlaki on every corner, in every neighbourhood, all over the city. Thin slices of “gyros”, pork cubes grilled on the skewer, or even a lamb kebab, all wrapped up in a thin pita bread and served with tomatoes, onion, tzatziki sauce and fried potatoes. A full nutritious meal for under € 2. Apaki - Syglino The Greek equivalent of bacon. Salted and smoked pieces of pork, ideal for adding to salads, omelettes or just eating straight with a glass of wine, beer or ouzo. after experiencing a live performance. Authentic Greek dishes and a breathtaking view to the Acropolis from its cool breezy terrace. €€€ R. Gali 25, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9214130

Elea (Map M8

Akropoli)

ith an extraordinary view of Lycabettus and Filopapou hills, this is a “trademark” taverna of Plaka. Tasty food, and live music every Friday and Saturday. €€€ Erehtheos 16 & Erotokritou, Plaka (+30) 210 3249512

Rozalia (Map D11

Omonia)

niversity students love it. Its Greek cuisine and lush green roof garden make it very popular. Another plus is the fact that it stays open until very late at night all week. € Valtetsiou 58, Exarchia (+30) 210 3302933 68_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Greeks love their traditional homemade cuisine, and renowned Greek chefs love to tackle its recipes. What they come up with is some of the country’s most representative dishes served up “with a twist”. The finest restaurants of the Greek creative cuisine are... Black Duck (Map I10

Panepistimio)

his three -level central joint has a great ambience. It always hosts a small exhibition and very often has live music too. Open all day and night, you can grab a coffee, a drink, a snack and you can dine there too. €€ Christou Lada 9A, Athens (+30) 210 3234760

Pasaji (Map J11

Syntagma)

n elegant city meeting point. Located right next to Attica Shopping Centre and inside the light-soaked Stoa Spyromiliou, one of the most cosmopolitan places in the heart of Athens. Too bad it’s closed on Sundays. €€€€ City Link, Stoa Spyromiliou (+30) 210 3220714

Mani Mani (Map Q7

Akropoli)

ani is the rocky area in the south of the Peloponnese, and many of its local dishes are served in this superb modern restaurant, housed in a neoclassical building a few steps away from the Acropolis museum. If you are looking for real, non-tourist Greek food at surprisingly low prices, this is your first choice. We cannot recommend it enough. Closed on Mondays. €€ Falirou 10, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9218180

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_69

salads

Trapezaria (Map Q8

Akropoli)

hef Dimitris Panagiotopoulos creates Greek dishes in a warm, cosy area. The prices are very good, but it is closed on Sundays. €€ Theodorou Negri 1, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9213500

Rififi (Map E12

C Choriatiki The most famous Greek salad. The name means “village salad” and it’s a real work of art, an explosion of colour on your plate. The red of the tomatoes, deep green of the peppers, delicate pale green of cucumber, white of the feta cheese and onions, black of the olives – all topped off with a bright, glistening touch of virgin oil. Don’t forget a pinch of dried oregano to add a beautiful fragrance typical of the Greek summer. Dakos A popular Cretan dish. Small rusks, topped with grated tomato and crumbled mitzithra cheese. The secret lays in the good quality olive oil to sprinkle over it. Stamnagathi Piney chicory herb found mostly on the island of Crete, served boiled in water and lemon juice or fresh in a salad. A beautiful, powerful taste of Greek flora. P Box@Periscope (Map I15

Syntagma / Evangelismos)

t gives the impression of a grocery store – but in a very stylish way. The menu is signed and fantastically delivered by one of Greece’s greatest chefs, Chistoforos Peskias. €€€ Charitos 22 (Periscope Ηotel), Kolonaki (+30) 210 7298556

Cucina Povera (Map O14

Syntagma)

ery good wine restaurant by sommelier John Kaimenakis with a long list of wines. Enjoy your favourite wines served in glass or bottle along with the seasonal cuisine served. Closed on Sundays. €€ Eforionos 13 & Eratosthenous, Pagrati (+30) 210 7566008

Dionysos (Map O7

Akropoli)

njoy magnificent Mediterranean cuisine in this emblematic restaurant of Athens facing the Acropolis. Beautiful garden and posh customers. €€€€ Rovertou Gali 43, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9233182

2 (Duo) (Map I16

Omonia)

osy modern taverna with a menu of traditional Greek tastes that changes quite often. It is decorated in a relaxing way that helps to enjoy the atmosphere. Every Thursday, Rififi hosts special jazz nights with Greek bands. You will need a reservation. Try the farfalle with mushrooms – delicious. Daily menu at €10. €€ Em. Benaki 69A & Valtetsiou, Exarchia (+30) 210 3300237

Fragma

ave a coffee or even better enjoy Maditerranean cuisine based on local fresh produce, in the tranquil surroundings of the Marathon lake. Ideal for a small trip outside Athens, in one of the most romantic environments near the city. Taste fresh, organic products, and combine your meal with a foray to the nearby town of Marathon, one of the most historically significant locations of Greece. €€ Marathon Lake Dam (+30) 210 8143415

Arxontiko (Map F23

Ambelokipi)

n one of the oldest restaurants in the centre of Athens (since 1967), the experience of eating excellent Greek food comes true with its delicious traditional cuisine and cosy atmosphere, loved by the locals but also famous people such as Hillary Clinton. €€ Evrou 40, Ambelokipi (+30) 210 7777742

Vassilenas

inston Churchill, Sophia Loren and many others have dined here. Renato Mecolli knows how to handle seafood. By far one of Piraeus’ most well known and historic restaurants. €€€ Etolikou 72, Piraeus (+30) 210 4612457

Aleria (

Metaxourghio)

hen making your reservation, be sure to ask for a table in the beautiful garden. Aleria is renowned for its imaginative working of nouvelle Greek cuisine. €€€ Megalou Alexandrou 57, Metaxourgio (+30) 210 5222633

MEDITERRANEAN

Greece is the centre of Mediterranean cuisine and the best place to enjoy the tastiest and most creative Mediterranean dishes. New Taste

Evangelismos)

stone's throw from Kolonaki sq., famous chef Lefteris Lazarou, awarded with a Michelin star, creates majestic dishes in reasonable prices. Wonderful garden. €€€ Xenokratous 49, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7294111-2 70_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

(Map L19

Syntagma)

he restaurant of the design hotel “New” –made by Campana– with nice breakfasts and Mediterranean cuisine. €€€€ Filellinon 16, Syntagma (+30) 210 3273000

WINE L VERS

Malvazia

xquisite Mediterranean cuisine in a wonderful space that will remind you of a medieval castle. Don’t miss out on the weekday specials (menu with €19) and the live music nights on Friday and Saturday. €€ Agathimerou 1, Rouf (+30) 210 3417010

Prosopa

top choice for its location –in one of the oldest and most picturesque areas of downtown Athens– beloved for its delicious Mediterranean dishes. Enjoy food under the stars. €€ Konstantinoupoleos 4 & Megalou Vasiliou 52, Rouf (+30) 210 3413433

Vezene (Map K19

One of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions, Greece has been making its own wine for the past 6,500 years. Since the tourism boom of the country in the 1960s, retsina, a white wine with resin aroma, has become almost synonymous to Greece and Greek wine. But there is far more than that for the wine lovers. For many years now, top international varieties have been cultivated with great success. Top sommeliers, wine writers and traders have put Greece firmly on the global “wine map”. There are also many rare regional varieties, which are well worth trying. Some of the best producers and their top wines are listed below. A bottle of good white wine in the liqueur stores costs between € 10-15 and a bottle of red € 12-25.

The most important Greek wine grapes White varieties Assyrtico The finest white grape from Santorini Island. Mineral with high acidity, ages well

Malagousia Aromatic, with a scent of ripe peaches and apricots

Moschofilero A sweet, aromatic grape Red varieties Agiorgitico Rich, deeply coloured, ages well Xinomavro Greece’s answer to Pinot Noir Top Producers Aivalis Especially red Monopati Alpha Estate Εspecially Sauvignon Blanc and Xinomavro Antonopoulos Εspecially Chardonnay and Nea Dris red Arghyros Especially Vareli Assyrtico and Top Vinsanto Biblia Chora Εspecially Assyrtico and red and white Ovilos Gaia Εspecially Agiorgitico Gerovassiliou Εspecially Chardonnay, Avaton red and Syrah

Katogi Strofilia Ktima Averof red Kir-Yanni Samaropetra white, Xinomavro Manousakis Mercouri Papaioannou Εspecially Palaia Ktimata red Sigalas Εspecially Vareli Assyrtico Skouras Malamatina A white resinated wine brand of as retsina, a traditional Greek product - Giannis Dimopoulos

72_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Evangelismos)

ne of the best restaurants of the city, located behind Hilton Hotel. Reservations are required: it is always packed with afficionados of nouvelle cuisine. A restaurant that originally started in the island of Lefkada. Enjoy the delicacies from Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. Sundays closed. €€€€ Vrasida 11, Hilton (+30) 210 7232002

Fuga (Map G21

Megaro Moussikis)

he restaurant of the Megaron with modern Mediterranean cuisine from the chefs Pantaleo de Pinto and Andea Berton will satisfy your appetite. €€€€ Vasilissis Sofias & Kokali 1, Megaron Moussikis (+30) 210 7242979

Da Vinci

ocated inside a green garden, this is a multilevel space open from early in the morning for a poolside coffee. Very nice atmosphere, great cocktails, rich wine list. The highlight is the pool surrounded by palm trees. Very often, there is a live orchestra and the bar stays open until late. €€€ Agiou Ioannou, Agia Paraskevi (+30) 210 6000102

Mommy Open (Map G12

Panepistimio)

any nice dishes and modern décor. Enjoy its wonderful, “secret” garden and its variety of nice cocktails. €€€ Delfon 4, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3619682

Cartone (Map J1

Kerameikos)

new arrival in the vibrant neighbourhood of Gazi. Playful décor, with huge paper "motorcycles" and "cars" hanging from the ceiling. Open from morning till late night, for coffee, cocktails and food: pasta, burgers, risotto, grilled meat, original salads and pastry – try the cheesecake with bergamot. Tables out, good mainstream music and reasonable prices. € Persefonis 41 & Triptolemou, Gazi (+30) 210 3450202

CRETAN CUISINE

Healthy, delicious, favoured by all Greeks, and celebrated across the globe. There are many good restaurants in the city where you can sample original Cretan atmosphere and speciality dishes. Alatsi (Map K19

Evangelismos)

wner Stavros Theodorakis is a famous Greek journalist and chef Dimitris Skarmoutsos is a great cook with a

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_73

Cooked in oil (Ladera) A number of Greek summer dishes are made with fresh seasonal vegetables,added spices, oil and occasionally potatoes or rice.They are served hot or cold with feta cheese and bread for a typical, delicious summer meal after a day on the beach. Fasolakia Small green beans in tomato sauce, with garlic, onion, parsley and potatoes. Imam baildi This dish has a pedigree that dates back to the Ottoman occupation, and translates as “the Imam (Turkish holy man) fainted” – because he ate too much of it! You don’t have to go to such extremes, but you’ll love the vibrant sweetness of just fried eggplants in tomato sauce flavoured with garlic, onion and parsley. Briam Baked vegetables (courgettes with potatoes, plenty of garlic and onions, tomatoes and parsley). Gemista The king of the ladera category. Baked tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and courgettes, stuffed with rice and lots of spices (and in some cases, minced meat).

huge reputation – not only for his unbeatable culinary skills but also for his TV appearances! For all the above reasons, and its exquisite Cretan cuisine, Alatsi is always packed, so reservations are a must. The menu features different cheeses, meats, even alatsi (means salt, all pure and natural) – all delivered fresh daily all the way from Crete. Try the gamopilafo, meat with rice, a traditional recipe for Cretan weddings. €€€ Vrasida 13 (behind Hilton Hotel) (+30) 210 7210501, 697 7210501

Rakaki (Map O23)

arios is a young man from Crete and this is his restaurant. Good Cretan dishes in a neo-folklore atmosphere. Good prices too. €€ Moshonision 2-4, Kesariani (+30) 210 7237457

Spinalonga

restaurant with a highly inspiring interior that makes it look more like a mountain cave. €€ Dragatsaniou 36, Piraeus (+30) 210 4110020

Oxo Nou (Map E11

Omonia)

ocated at Exarhia, Oxo Nou makes you feel like you are in the island of Crete.This taverna combines a modern environment with music from all around the world and a traditional Cretan menu. All the raw materials come straight from Crete and are carefully chosen. € Em. Benaki 63-65, Exarchia (+30) 210 3801778

ATHENS FROM ABOVE

Main dishes

Some restaurants have an ace under their tables and that’s their privileged location. They can guarantee not only the good quality of the food but also the most spectacular views of the city. Most are housed in large central hotels or are located in the historical centre of the city. Athens Gate (Map P9

Dolmadakia Little parcels of vine or cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat, rice and vegetables –or just plain rice flavoured with herbs and spices– in a creamy egg and lemon broth or with a portion of yogurt served on the side. This is a must if you want to say you have tried Greek cuisine. Mousaka One of the most popular and best-known Greek dishes. When well-made, it is delicious, but badly done it can be inedible – so beware where you order. Slices of fried eggplants layered with minced meat in tomato sauce, covered with béchamel sauce rich in eggs and cheese. Giouvetsi It’s meat (veal or lamb) or seafood roasted in the oven, with pasta and tomato sauce. A typical Greek family Sunday lunch. Patsas Tripe soup. The ultimate pre-hangover food, really soothing on the stomach. It is served with a mix of extra strong vinegar with garlic. Cacavia Greek fisherman’s soup made of many different kinds of small fishes (the ones not easily sold at the fish market). You can order it in most seafood tavernas.

74_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Akropoli)

he restaurant of the Athens Gate Hotel. Mediterranean cuisine combined with an amazing view to the Parthenon and the historical site of the Temple of Olympian Zeus will satisfy all your senses. Open every night 19:00-23:00. €€€€ Sygrou 10, Athens (+30) 210 9238302-3

Galaxy Bar (Map K19 Evangelismos) warded as one of the best “sky bars” in the world and totally cosmopolitan. Indulge yourself with a fantastic view of the entire city, cocktails and fingerfood in martini glasses. You can also enjoy barbequed fillet steaks or fish on incandescent stones provided by The Galaxy BBQ diner. €€€€ Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis Sofias 46 (+30) 210 7281000

Gazarte (M I1

Kerameikos)

ight in the middle of the crowded Gazi area, with a view of the Acropolis, this restaurant offers perfect cocktails and Mediterranean bites to a mellow soundtrack of funky, Latin, jazz, soul and ethnic sounds. On Fri and Sat the music will take you back to long-gone decades. Closed on Mondays. €€ Voutadon 32, Gazi (+30) 210 3460347, 210 3452277

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_75

KROKOS

KAPARI

Athens Delis Kapari

(Map G12

Panepistimio)

he place to find a rare selection of specialties from all around Greece. Owners Nikoleta and Natassa are very friendly and will happily help you choose among a wide range of products, including a refined choice of cheeses, herbs, spices, olives and all sorts of organic products. We saved the best for last: before you leave their deli, they will treat you with traditional Cretan raki and mezedes. Asklipiou 22 (+30) 211 010424

Krokos (Map N9

Kerameikos / Akropoli)

nder the shadow of Acropolis, in a unique example of a neoclassical building, “Krokos – fine food and wine” covers an extensive range of traditional Greek food and wine brands and labels. Dedicated in promoting Mediterranean diet and discovering unique

Greek products and delicacies from all around the Greek countryside. Here you can also find the products of the renowned international gourmet brand Oliviers & Co. Vironos 6 & Vakhou, Plaka (+30) 210 3313509

Zempili

(Map N1

Peri Lesvou

Syntagma)

eluxe art deco interior and impeccable service. An excellent choice after shopping in what can only be branded as Athens’ most chic and historical brasserie. You’ll be sitting next to powerful businessmen, and journalists in search of their next story. Delectable Mediterranean cuisine €€€€ Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma sq. (+30) 210 3330000

Grand Balcon (Map I15

Evangelismos)

otal luxury with influences from the 70s, “creative” Greek tastes, panoramic view and beautiful music. €€€€ St. George Lycabettus Hotel, Cleomenous 2, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7290712

Ioannis (Map P9

Akropoli)

reek creative cuisine, luxurious surroundings, excellent view of the Acropolis, the Temple of Olympian

76_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

(Map I6

Monastiraki)

raditional products from the Northern Aegean (Mytilini, Limnos, Chios): butter, ouzo, olive oil, cheeses, extra-gentle soap and many more.

GB Corner (Map K11

Petralona)

fragrance of Greek food in the traditional neighbourhood of Ano Petralona, in a beautiful building dating from the 1900s. Products from every corner of Greece for those who seek quality with designation of origin. Cheese from Crete, olives from Thassos and a great variety of organic products. Troon 50, Ano Petralona (+30) 210 3460331

Athinas 27, Monastiraki (+30) 210 3233227

Arapian

(Map H7

Omonia)

landmark in the downtown Central Market since 1935, Arapian specialises in Greek and Oriental delicacies. Prices are reasonable too. The owners are a delight and will gladly give you gastronomic tips. Evripidou 41, Omonia (+30) 210 3217238

Pantopolio Stoas Athanaton (Map H7

Omonia)

he “Grocery of the Immortals’ Gallery”, as its name is in Greek, is famous for its variety of quality and traditional products. Some of the finest olives in Greece can be bought here. Pulses, fresh fish and the whole spectrum of traditional Greek food. Armodiou 2, Central Meat Market (+30) 210 3219855

Zeus, Lycabettus Hill and the centre of the city. €€€€ Athanasiou Diakou 28-34 (Royal Olympic Hotel), Makrigianni (+30) 210 9288400

Café Avyssinia (Map J6

Monastiraki)

he whole city knows this low-profile but greatly respected taverna, which still carries the good old Athenian atmosphere. The décor and the menu combines aspects of the Balkans, Europe and Middle East. Closed on Sunday evenings and Mondays. €€ Kynetou 7, Avyssinias sq., Monastiraki (+30) 210 3224501

Olive Garden (Map G9

Omonia)

ontemporary Mediterranean cuisine in surroundings that offer an impressive, surprising glance into the life of the city’s centre. Closed on Sundays. €€€ Titania Hotel, Panepistimiou 52 (+30) 210 3838511

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_77

Orizontes Lycavittou (Map F16

Panepistimio)

nchanting view and a menu heavily based on the products of Mediterranean sea. If you are not excited with the prospect of walking up the Lycabettus Hill, you can take the funicular (Teleferic of Lycabettus). €€€ Lycabettus Hill (+30) 210 7210701, 210 7227065

Parliament (The) (Map K11

Sweet Αlchemy by Stelios Parliaros

SWEET TASTES

Traditional Greek pastries are sweet, rich and soaked in flavour Halva A fudge made with sesame seed paste, sesame oil and sugar. It is offered as a dessert in many tavernas, after the end of a meal. Baclava Nuts, almonds, cinnamon, cloves and syrup. One of the most popular pastry desserts. Galaktoboureko Another popular sweet. A pie filled with custard and then doused in vanilla syrup. Loukoumades Deep fried little doughnuts served with honey, syrup or ice cream. Glyka koutaliou Various Greek fruits preserved in thick sugary syrup. They come in small jars and are an ideal gift for friends back home. Ryzogalo Rice pudding made of rice boiled in milk, sugar and vanilla, sprinkled with cinnamon. You can find it in dairies and super markets. Diples Deep fried honey rolls served with nuts.

Agapitos

(Map K10

Syntagma)

This patisserie has a long tradition linked to the sweet history of Thessaloniki. Its delicious profiteroles and famous tsoureki (sweet bread) are both highly recommended. Voulis 7, Syntagma (+30) 210 3258110

Chatzis

(Map K10

Syntagma)

Point of View (Map G7

St’ Astra Blue (Map B11)

ere, at the rooftop of the Radisson Blu Park Hotel, you can enjoy a barbecue under the stars. Turn your head to the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill: they look almost close enough to touch. Very romantic with delicious Mediterranean cuisine. Closed Sundays and Mondays. €€€ Alexandras 10, Pedion Areos (+30) 2210 8894500

Tudor Hall (Map K11

Sweet Alchemy

(Map L17

Varsos

ong and rich tradition in sweets. Specialties include ryzogalo (creamy rice pudding topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon) and delicious tsoureki. Kassaveti 5, Kifisia (+30) 210 8012472

78_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Syntagma)

uxury, style and contemporary French cuisine. Enjoy your full three-course meal (for € 40), on a roof terrace that overlooks the Acropolis. Closed on Sundays. €€€€ King George Hotel, Vasileos Georgiou 3, Syntagma (+30) 210 3222210

FISH

Omonia)

ocated on a truly privileged spot, it can give you an amazing view, from the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill all the way to the sea. Fine Mediterranean cuisine, served from noon till night. Good cocktails too. €€€ Dorian Inn Hotel, 12th floor, Pireos 17-19 (+30) 210 5231755

raditional sweet tastes since 1908. Try the baklava, the cream pie (galaktoboureko) and ekmek kantaifi with butter made from buffalo milk. Mitropoleos 5, Syntagma (+30) 210 3222647

he pastry chef who has changed the face of confectionary in Greece, Stelios Parliaros, studied art and pastry-making in France. Author of eight books, since 2008 Parliaros has hosted the weekly Greek TV show “Sweet Alchemies” on Mega channel. He has rightfully earned the title of the top Greek chef pâtissier. Irodotou 24, Kolonaki (Map K15 Evangelismos) (+30) 210 7240205 Kolokotroni 9, Kifisia (ISAP Line 1) (+30) 210 8080480

Syntagma)

uxury and elegance define both the interior and the menu. True to its Mediterranean origins, it keeps the Greek aromas pretty strong. Also has an open buffet for breakfast from 07:00 until 11:00. €€€€ NJV Athens Plaza Hotel, Vasileos Georgiou A, Syntagma (+30) 210 3352400

Fishalida

Evangelismos)

ocated close to a number of large museums like Benaki, Byzantine, Cycladic, Modern Art and the National Gallery, this is a modern fish restaurant. Begin your meal with a number of delicious seafood starters accompanied by Greek wines or tsipouro and continue with fresh grilled fish. €€ Naiadon & Antinoros (Hilton area) (+30) 210 7234551

Papadakis (Map I14

Evangelismos)

he legendary restaurant of Paros island moved to Athens a few years ago and is now considered one of the best of its kind in the city, thanks to its celebrity chef and TV personality, Argirο Barbarigou. It is essential to book in advance. Closed on Sundays. €€€€ Fokilidou 15, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3608621

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_79

FRAGMA (GREEK CREATIVE)

dishes Taramosalata This is a mousse salad made from fish roe blended with onion, lemon and yesterday’s bread soaked in water. It is the perfect accompaniment for a glass of ouzo on ice and a great appetizer before a seafood dinner. Melitzanosalata A puree of grilled or smoked eggplant mixed with olive oil, garlic, onion and vinegar. Tzatziki Greek yogurt is famous all over the world. This cool yogurt, cucumber, garlic and dill sauce blended with oil, vinegar and salt goes wonderfully with souvlaki and meze, Greece’s answer to tapas. Tyrokafteri Dip made from feta cheese, hot chilli pepper, oil and vinegar. Skordalia A pungent dip made from garlic, yesterday’s bread, oil and vinegar. It’s the perfect sauce to serve with fried battered cod croquettes. Saganaki Sagani means pan, so saganaki is the small pan and the food that is fried in it. Usually, it is crusty melted cheese served with lemon, shrimps or mussels in a tomato sauce and topped with crumbled feta. Fava A puree made of fava beans served with onion, lemon and oil. The islands of Santorini and Lefkada are famous for their fava dishes. Keftedes Small fried meatballs, an all-time Greek favourite. Variations use vegetables instead of minced meat, like tomato-keftedes, kolokytho-keftedes (made with grated or chopped courgette), or even psaro-keftedes (with fish) .

MALVAZIA (MEDITERRANEAN)

Sardelles (Map J1

Kerameikos)

onveniently located opposite the Technopolis cultural centre, this is the ideal spot for a fresh fish meal after a concert. Highlights include grilled sardines, baby octopus, French fries and the unique shrimp souvlaki. And don’t leave without your gift: a pot of fragrant basil. €€ Persefonis 15, Gazi (+30) 210 3478050

Ai Nikolas

ish from cosmopolitan chef Pino Saccheri, formerly active in Portofino and Mykonos. €€€ Sygrou 156 (+30) 210 9232919

Dourabeis

n all-time classic and justly famous. Fish cuisine of the highest standards. €€€ Akti Protopsalti 27, Piraeus (+30) 210 4122092

Thalassinos

odern taverna serving traditionally grilled fish. You must try the creamy taramosalata, the sea urchin salad and of course big grilled fishes. Closed on Sunday nights and Mondays. €€ Herakleous & Lysikratous 32, Tzitzifies (+30) 210 9404518

Jimmy and the Fish

t stands out among all the tourist tavernas of Mikrolimano. A meeting point for fish lunch on Sundays by the yachts and fishing boats. €€€€ Akti Koumoundourou 46, Mikrolimano (+30) 210 4124417

Ithaca

uxurious, formal and ideal for romantic evenings. Grilled and fresh fish served in tables with a view of the sea. €€€€ Apollonos 28, Lemos Vouliagmenis (+30) 210 8963747

Istioploikos

landmark of Mikrolimano overlooking the Saronic Gulf. On Sunday evenings it feels like you are at a beach bar. Modern, Mediterranean cuisine. The café looks like a boat deck. €€€€ Akti Mikrolimano, Piraeus (+30) 210 4134084 -184, 694 4915220 80_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_81

Kanaria

ld, authentic, fish taverna. Shrimps, open sea fish and fresh salads, all served up in a beautiful yard. €€€ Kanari 116-119, Moschato (+30) 210 9422119

Kollias

he owner is an expert of fish like no one else. Closed on Sunday nights. €€€ Plastira 3, Tambouria (+30) 210 4629620

BAR RESTAURANTS Akrotiri Boutique

lamorous crowds and a high-class atmosphere. There is a party going on almost every night. €€€€ Agios Kosmas Beach (+30) 2210 9859147-9

RIFIFI (GREEK CREATIVE)

Balthazar (Map D21

Ambelokipi)

ne of the most beautiful buildings in Athens (and once the home of famous Greek actress Kiveli), it attracts the city’s elite. Here is where politicians, businessmen, actors, artists enjoy their early meals and drinks and where Athens's power game is played. You’ll see them all – and everyone will see you. Mediterranean cuisine and a small garden, where sushi is served. €€€€ Tsoxa & Vournazou 27, Ambelokipi (+30) 2210 6441215

Dirty Ginger (Map J1

Kerameikos)

ne of the best bars in the city. Its Mediterranean cuisine is a “must try”, not to mention its cocktails. Lounge around its beautiful little garden and mingle with its crowd. €€€ Triptolemou & Persefonis 46, Gazi (+30) 2210 3468604

BLACK DUCK (GREEK CREATIVE)

T.G.I. Friday’s

ive some “flavour” to your evenings at TGI Friday’s with appetizers and cocktails at happy hour prices from MonFri, 17:00-20:00. Enjoy the rest of your day in a fun and unique

Pies Although they are appetizers, Greek pies are a whole meal of their own. Made from fyllo pastry, they are filled with a variety of ingredients depending on the season or what is available locally in the various regions,and then baked in the oven. Tiropita A pie filled with various types of cheese, usually feta or yellow mild varieties. This favorite snack of Greeks can be found anywhere, from restaurants to snack bars in the street. Spanakopita or chortopita Pie filled with spinach, wild greens and a variety of herbs. Even more delicious if cheese is added to the filling.

DA VINCI (MEDITERRANEAN)

ASTY 68 (GREEK TRADITIONAL) 82_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

atmosphere, where servers and bartenders are willing to exceed your expectations. At TGI Friday’s you will find a variety of refreshing signature cocktails and straight drinks mixed by the greatest bartenders in the world. Try the Living Well Menu. Mon-Thu menu at €12,90. €€ Kolokotroni 35, Kifisia (+30) 210 623 3947-8 • Imitou 110, Pagrati (inside Athens Millennium Mall, Map Q17) (+30) 210 7560544-5 • Neofytou Vamva 2, Kolonaki (+30) 210 722 7.721 • Kifisias & Alexandras (Map D24 Ambelokipi) (+30) 210 6475417-8 • Lazaraki 43, Glyfada (+30) 210 8982608-9 • Marina Flisvou, Pier One, Palio Faliro (+30) 210 9853281 • Vouliagmenis 276, Agios Dimitrios (The Athens Metro Mall) (+30) 210 9717223

Island

s the name suggests, it feels like you’re on an island of the Aegean sea. Located on a unique seaside spot, not far from the city, its food is inspired by the Mediterranean temperament and prepared by award-winning chef Nikos Skliras. Extraordinary cocktails and music will definitely add to the carefree spirit. €€€€ 27th klm Athinon Av., Sounio, Varkiza (+30) 210 9653563-4

Shamone (Map J1

Kerameikos)

wner -and famous actor and TV personality- Fotis Sergoulopoulos has managed to create a magnificent environment with a tasteful menu of 16 dishes in low prices (€6-14 per dish). In the restaurant’s cocktail bars you can sit, relax and watch burlesque happenings from performers every Friday and Saturday. €€ Konstantinoupoleos 46, Gazi (+30) 210 3450144

Wine Point (Map Q10

Akropoli)

ine bar with a great variety of Greek wines to choose from. Don’t miss out on the great selection of beers, cheeses and meat delicacies in a nice, warm space. Look out for the music nights and the various events. € Athanasiou Diakou & Porinou 2 (+30) 210 9227050

Mexikanos (O)

ooking for something different? This bar restaurant serves delicious, authentic and affordable Mexican food, alongside a wide choice of drinks including Mexican beers, delicious margaritas and mojitos in a colourful and friendly atmosphere not far from the city centre. Open Mon-Thu from 18:00, FriSun from 14:00. € Evdilou 15, Zografou (+30) 210 7716900

Idiston (TO) (Map P8

Akropoli)

ere you will enjoy delicious cocktails, Greek liqueurs and wines, snacks made of authentic Greek products, homemade Italian ice cream and sweets. Its open everyday, from 08:30. € Makrigianni 19-21, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9219994

Mama Roux (Map J8

Monastiraki)

ocated in the city centre, this is a new, popular addition to the restaurant scene of Athens. Multi-cultural menu: French, Mid Eastern, Mexican and Asian cuisine, plus great burgers. Sunday brunch with Eggs Benedict on fresh EngCITY GUIDE summer 2012_83

CARTONE (MEDITERRANEAN)

VINCENZO (ITALIAN)

lish muffins, omelettes, pancakes, bagels and lox, fritatta, fresh juices and a proper Bloody Mary. You can sit indoors or outdoors on the pedestrian Eolou street, with a view of the Acropolis. Soundtrack includes R&B and soul music, especially from New Orleans. Atmosphere is casual. Full bar. The quality is high and the prices are modest. € Eolou 48, Monastiraki (+30) 213 0048382, 697 4710278

Fast & Casual

They pop-up all around the city, offering nicely designed interiors and quick and cheap food. Simply Burgers (Map L19) ARXONTIKO (GREEK CREATIVE)

oft bread, high quality, fresh meat and many delicacies to choose from. € Antinoros 38, Pagrati (+30) 210 7240007

Souvlaki Bar (Map J5

Thissio)

ow about a souvlaki right beside the Ancient Temple of Hephaestus in Monastiraki? it serves Greek street food with a modern twist both in service and décor. Open all day until late – and cheap too. € Adrianou & Thissiou 15 (+30) 210 5150550

New York Sandwich

G ATHIRI (FINE DINING)

rab a bite in “New York” style. Beef sandwiches, meatballs with sauce, chicken, soups and, for dessert, a piece of the best cheesecake in town. Take-away or enjoy your food at the communal table with 20 seats. Open from 10:00-24:00. € Sinopis 3, Pyrgos Athinon (+30) 210 7778475

Schweinchen Dick (Map J1

Kerameikos)

hether you have just stepped out for the evening or are heading back to bed after a long night out, this is the place to be. Industrial “Berlin” design, blues, jazz and rock on the decks and juicy Nuremberg, Vienna or Krakow sausages, potato salads from Bavaria and Berlin, original Bavarian delicatessen and, of course, lots of beer. € Iakhou 9-11, Gazi 693 7983556

Crepa-Crepa

ROZALIA (GREEK TRADITIONAL) 84_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

ere is where crepes are worshipped. Tasty, colourful, savoury or sweet, it will be a little hard to choose what to order! € Martiou 25 & Irinis 2, Nea Smyrni (+30) 210 9317705 •

Traleon 71, Lambrini (+30) 210 2222071 • Herakliou 3-5, Halandri (+30) 210 6858138 • Skoufa 46, Kolonaki (Map H12, M Panepistimio) (+30) 211 4044803 • Iroon Sq. 5 & Pallados 24-26, Psiri (Map I7 Monastiraki) (+30) 210 3218484 • Argyroupoleos & Alexandroupoleos 34, Argyroupoli (+30) 210 993000 • Vouliagmenis 276 (The Athens Metro Mall) (+30) 210 9731190

Gazi College

his is not a library, so don’t let the bookshelves and the blackboards give you the wrong impression. Here you’ll drink your coffee and have a snack, a fresh salad or something sweet. It is open from 08:00 and on Fridays and Saturdays stays open all day – college kids need “fuel” to carry on. € Persefonis & Gargition 53, Gazi (+30) 210 3322112

Everest

here’s one on every corner. Whether you’re walking through the city centre or exploring the most remote area, every neighbourhood has its own. A dazzling array of ingredients to choose from and make your own dream sandwich. The same applies for pies, salads, pastry, coffees, beverages and drinks. Those in the city’s centre are usually open 24 hours. €

It Fresh Food

urn to “it” for a quick yet ideal snack: fresh juice, fresh salads and lunch packs, freshly baked sandwiches and wraps, all made from secret recipes. Also a variety of organic products, including Ethiopian coffee. A value for money place, located in several parts of the centre. €

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_85

Skoufa 37, Kolonaki (Map H12 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3631827 • Kifisias 64, Polis Centre, Marousi (+30) 211 1820840

Boutique Kalamaki (Map A24

Panormou)

reeks’ favorite street food, souvlaki, at its most modern and luxury version. On the side, delicious salads and cretan dakos, burgers, little chicken strips. Everything is prepared by the time you order and the food is of the finest quality. Its very close to the Panormou Metro Station. Low prices. € Karistou 3, Ambelokipi (+30) 210 6995840

Derlicatessen (Map I13 T.G.I. FRIDAY’S (BAR RESTAURANT)

Panepistimio)

ocated in the heart of the shoping district in Kolonaki, a souvlaki place with a healthier twist. Freshly cut french fries, meat with very little fat, Turkey burger, Greek water buffalo, chicken souvlaki and more. The souvlaki is handmade and everything is freshly prepared as there is no freezer in the place. Sun-Wed until 02:00, Thu until 03:00, Fri-Sat until 06:00. € Tsakalof 14, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3630284

Nice n Easy (Map H13

TO IDISTON (BAR RESTAURANT)

Panepistimio)

robably the only place in Athens with a combination of mostly organic food and calorie counts in the menu. Fresh, local ingredients used. Menu of healthy and delicious choices. Sushi Mon-Thu after 18:30. Free wifi. Kitchen open until 01:30. Open for coffee and breakfast at 09:00. € Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3617201

Sugar Inn (Map j14

Syntagma)

n the beautiful pedestrian of Tsakalof, which leads to Kolonaki Sq, you will find this café-creperie-patisserie, with tables, under the shadow of a large tree. Choose from a variety of sweet or cheesy crepes, ice-cream, waffles, clubsandwitches, hot dogs, fresh salads, created with imagination and always sticking to high quality fresh materials. Modest prices, multilingual service and free wifi. Open all day long. € Tsakalof 14, Kolonaki (+30) 211 7150332

BEER Octoberfest

MYROVOLOS (GREEK TRADITIONAL)

n authentic Bavarian corner, evident in its decoration and a large selection of beers from all over the world. Quite often you’ll come across beer drinking competitions. The food is great and includes German sausages, schnitzel and other Bavarian specialties. 19:00-20:00 is happy hour. €€ Agiou Ioannou 82, Agia Paraskevi (+30) 210 6082999

Beertuoso

beer-restaurant by the sea, it offers a range of 70 selected beer brands. Accompany them with one of the many Mediterranean dishes they serve or with the classic beer appetizers. The variety of DJ styles, the green veranda, the sea breeze will all keep you entertained. €€ Posidonos 38, Alimos (+30) 210 9836550

Deutsche Ecke - The Beer Bar

SAFKA (SCANDINAVIAN) 86_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

offee, drink and food under the sounds of jazz, soul and rock music in a friendly environment. The experienced

staff and awarded bartenders serve a wide selection of nine draught and over forty bottled beers. The bar also includes signature cocktails such as the Bamberg Whiskey and Stout XO, along with traditional cocktails and other alcoholic beverages. They also offer a variety of tasty dishes inspired by German cuisine. Open every day from 11:30 until late at night. €€ Papagou 126, Zografou (+30) 210 7774 706

FRENCH CUISINE

The city boasts plenty of fine French restaurants. Furthermore, you will find selected French dishes in the menu of almost every restaurant in Athens. Abreuvoir (Map I16

Evangelismos)

ll time classic French cuisine, elegant and stylish. Its escargot bourguignon and the filet café de Paris are “magnifique”. Enjoy the food in its beautiful garden – alongside politicians, esteemed businessmen and VIPs. €€€€ Xenokratous 51, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7229106

Chez Lucien (Map N1

Petralona)

rench chef-owner, authentic French specialties and wines at reasonable prices. It’s always crowded, so you may have to share your table with others. It takes no reservations. €€ Troon 32, Ano Petralona (+30) 210 3464236

Polly Maggoo (Map G3

Metaxourghio)

tiny French restaurant, decorated to resemble Paris in the 70s. We recommend the eggs brouille with myrrh and truffle oil. Wine catalogue with excellent prices. €€ Leonidou & Salaminos 80, Metaxourgio (+30) 210 5241120

ASIAN

Inspired chefs who keep up with international trends, Athenians who love sushi, and the city’s growing population of Oriental people, have made the exotic flavours of Asian cuisine available in many good restaurants. Aethrion (Map K19

Evangelismos)

n one of the city’s most emblematic hotels, you will find one of Athens's best Asian restaurants. Respected businessmen make deals over dishes of highly mastered Japanese recipes, in a minimal Far East environment. €€€ Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis Sofias 46 (+30) 210 7281000

Noodle Bar

eople of all ages and classes meet here for authentic dishes of delicious Asian “fast food”. Small chain restaurants, scattered around selected corners of the city. €€ Tsocha 21& D. Soutsou, Ambelokipi (Map E22 Ambelokipi) (+30) 210 6452394 • Apollonos 11, Syntagma (Map L9 Syntagma) (+30) 210 3318585

Furin Kazan (Map L10

Syntagma)

ne of the best known and crowded places in downtown Athens, with an overloaded and tempting menu, courCITY GUIDE summer 2012_87

DEUTSCHE ECKE (BEER)

Gods Restaurant (GREEK TRADITIONAL)

teous and helpful service, and good prices. Don’t let the long wait for a table put you off. €€ Apollonos 2, Syntagma (+30) 210 3229170

ITALIAN

Fine restaurants, chain brands, diners and cosy trattorias with the sights and scents of Italy. Gallo Nero (IL) (Map B11)

ΝΙCE N EASY (FAST & CASUAL)

ituated inside the Radisson Blu Park Hotel, it offers a beautiful view of the city’s biggest park. You will taste Italian cuisine in its most contemporary guise. €€€ Alexandras 10, Radisson Blu Park Hotel, Pedion Areos (+30) 210 8894500

Malconi’s (Map i16

Evangelismos)

odern décor and excellent Italian cuisine. Open early morning for coffee or drink, until late at night. Enjoy its delicacies in its beautiful, refreshing, “secret” patio. €€€ Patriarchou Ioakim & Ploutarchou 23, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7248920

Pasteria (LA)

T OXO NOU (CRETAN)

welve restaurants all over the city. With a rich wine list and a tempting menu by famous chef Ettore Botrini. €€ The Mall Athens Marousi (+30) 210 6198230 • Kolonaki (+30) 210 3632032 • Glyfada (+30) 210 8945085 • Kifisia (+30) 210 8085607 • Nea Smyrni (+30) 210 9319146 • Paleo Faliro (+30) 210 9858880 • Ambelokipi (+30) 210 6401480 • Agia Paraskevi (+30) 210 6019975 • Halandri (+30) 210 6854210 • Kato Patissia 210 223629

Cheeses Greece’s most famous and best-selling cheeses

Feta Brined curd cheese, a traditional Greek product perfect in a choriatiki salad. Kefalotiri Hard, salty, yellow cheese. Graviera Mild, yellow, table cheese good for grating. Anthotiros Soft, white, unpasteurised, low fat cheese. Xinomitzithra Soft, white, slightly sour cheese. Kaseri Chewy, yellow cheese made with full fat cow’s milk. SUGAR INN (FAST & CASUAL) 88_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

At the b ack of th a peace e garden is acces ful little café doesn’t sible even if on want to e visit the m (Map J1 useum. 1 S Iliou M yntagma) Panepis elathron, timiou 12

FABRIZIOS’ (ITALIAN)

Numismatic Museum of Athens café

Pecora Nera

njoy its tasty pasta to a soundtrack of good old rock tunes. Better yet, enjoy it in its open big terrace. Jenny, the owner, is one of the most adorable hostesses in Athens. €€€ Sevastoupoleos 158, Ambelokipi (+30) 210 6914183

Postino (IL) (Map G11

Panepistimio)

traditional taverna with walls covered with nostalgic postcards offers flavours to satisfy your senses and appetite with good, authentic “homemade” Italian food. €€ Griveon 3, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3641414

Fabrizios' (Map I15

DERLICATESSEN (FAST & CASUAL)

Evangelismos)

xcellent Italian cuisine by chef Fabrizio Buliani, personal cook of Gianfranco Ferre for many years. It has a nice vibe that will make you feel like you are dining in a genuine Italian trattoria. In other words: if you are Italian, it will you make feel at home. Tasty dishes in good prices. Ideal for a nice evening. You can bring your own bottle of wine! €€€ Spefsipou 8, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7247180

Matilde Pizza Bar (Map H1

Kerameikos)

it outside and watch the trains pass by while you indulge in authentic Italian pizza and exotic cocktails. Closed on Sundays (noon) and Mondays. €€ Konstantinoupoleos 44, Gazi (+30) 210 3411878

Vincenzo

MAMA ROUX (BAR RESTAURANT)

ere you are magically transported to some Roman trattoria. Authentic thin Italian crust, wonderful pepperoni, rich pasta. Great menu with Italian flavours to chose from. Reasonable prices and most importantly excellent, personal service. €€ Giannitsopoulou 1, Glyfada (+30) 210 8941310

SCANDINAVIAN Safka (Map H1

Kerameikos)

candinavian gourmet cuisine by chef Samu Koskinen in a Scandinavian-style environment. Enjoy the salmon mousse and the deer meat, have a drink at the bar or relax at its outdoor space, away from the street noise. Prices for a glass of wine start at €4. Sunday and Monday closed. €€€ Megalou Alexandrou 80-82, Gazi (+30) 210 5243340

MATILDE PIZZA BAR (ITALIAN) CITY GUIDE summer 2012_89

Greek

Delicatessen

They are more than tasty, they are well reputed for their quality and they travel mouth to mouth around the globe. It’s true: Greek taste products are among the finest in the world. By NENELA GEORGELE

01 Avgotaracho

The eggs of mullet are the equivalent of caviar in Greece. A delicacy on a par with foie gras and truffle, it is loved by famous chefs across the world.

02 Top Vinegar

Made from red wine of select Greek vineyards, it is an internationally acclaimed brand of vinegar.

03 Mastic A natural product with unique taste, it is endemic to the 24 Masticochoria (Mastic Villages) of the island of Chios. It enjoys a Protected Designation of Origin. Available in the Mastiha Shop.

04 Greek refreshments

Biral from Gerani, orange juice Loux from Patras, lemonade Epsa from Volos. Fragrant, pure refreshments with a flavour of Greece.

05 Olives and olive oil Olives and olive oil are typical, worldfamous products of Greece. The extra virgin olive oil of Gaea is of the finest quality, not only by Greek, but also by international standards. The Chorio olive oil of Minerva is made from the traditional Koroneiki variety.

Retsina Malamatina A white resinated wine that has been enjoyed in Greece since ancient times. First produced in 1895, it is now a staple drink that goes with all types of dishes. One of its most famous brands is Retsina Malamatina. Retsina Malamatina invites you to complete your Greek experience. Just open a bottle, fill your glass and let your heart be “unlocked”.

90_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Krocus Kozani The spice derived from the flower of Crocus sativus, commonly known as “safran”, is often affectionately called “the gold of Greek Earth”. Greek skincare brand Korres, in cooperation with Krocus Kozani and the Cooperative de Safran, have introduced a line of organic herbal tea made from Greek red safran. Available in supermarkets.

06 06 Papadopoulou Biscuits An exclusively Greek company which debuted in 1922, it has been a leading brand of Greek biscuits for many generations.

Apivita and A br Honey: ey made of hon extracted r of necta yme and from thflowers wild egean. of the A

Metaxa

Is a Greek distilled spirit, a blend of brandy and wine. It is made from sundried Sultana, Black Corinth and Savatiano grape varieties. It is said that it was the first alcoholic drink consumed in space!

Macedonian Halva

Citrus

This delicious brand of the pastry halva originated in the small industry of the Chaitoglou family, back in 1924, and over the years has become a popular brand name.

Delicious pies made in Chios with fruit, from cherry and pear to plum and strawberry. You will find them in Krokos Fine Food & Wines.

Ouzo, tsipouro & raki

These three Greek distillates are produced in a traditional way and are famous for their fragrance, taste and quality. You will find Tsipouro Apostolaki at liquor stores and supermarkets, and Ouzo Mytilini Smyrnio at Kapari grocery store. They are consumed all around the world. In Greece, they are usually served with mezedes tapas. .

09 10

Skinos

Skinos is an excellent extract from mastic, served as cold shot, and as ingredient in cocktails and long drinks. It can be found in liquor stores and supermarkets. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_91

Get a nightlife We may be in crisis, but we never sleep... By PANAGIOTIS MENEGOS

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

ill sitors wwith i v t s o “M pressedreet leave im ant st the vibraxed lifestyle, t l re e ou life andeople take tim vening e where pss coffees and ate and l e l l i d t for en dine out un ghtlife, strolls, y the city’s ni f Europe enjo r the rest o . ” te long af as gone to bedom .c h t e lan -lonelyp

92_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

THE CLASSICS

hey are old-fashioned, tradition-driven and highly important…cultural places because they promote “The Art οf Drinking”.

Galaxy (Map J11

Syntagma)

If there is such a thing as a classic bar, this small place in downtown Athens is one of them. Mr. John behind the bar serves every night –in typical “Mad Men” manner– the city’s arty types, politicians, journalists and bohemian urbanites. Stadiou 10, Syntagma (+30) 210 3227733 Closed Sun

Loras (Map F21

Ambelokipi)

Authentic old-fashioned bar, and once upon a time a meeting point for intellectuals. Two generations of Loras family keep your glasses full with fine quality alcohol. Soutsou 7, Mavili sq. (+30) 210 6428473

Vrettos (Map N9

Akropoli)

Europe’s second oldest distillery is located in the heart of Plaka and always impresses Athens visitors with its display of multi-coloured bottles containing house-produced liquors. Kidathineon 41, Plaka (+30) 210 3232110

Au Revoir (

Victoria)

Perfect example of 50s architecture designed by famous Greek architect Aristomenis Provelegios. It still maintains a bohemian chic environment that attracts adventurous youngsters, artists and old Athenians. Patision 136, Kipseli (+30) 210 8223966

THE ARTY ONES

ar hopping, booze surfing, night crawling, socialising, networking, pick your -ing and smile at the bartender (or the waitress)…

6 d.o.g.s. (Map J7

Monastiraki)

Here you can spot local arts talents in the gallery, catch a glimpse of Athens alternative music scene, listen to cutting edge DJs, relax with a glass of beer outdoors or enjoy a cocktail in its (not so) secret garden. Avramiotou 6-8, Monastiraki (+30) 210 3210510

Kerameikos)

When the summer comes it lightens up with a full-of-music-gigs and theatre performances and celebrates Athens outdoor life with its wonderful terrace. Pireos 84, Keramikos (+30) 210 3425335

Booze Map J8

❶ Kari tsi Square (J10 Syntagma )

A leading hotspot in Athens’ nightlife

It has been the place-to-be for the last 5 years and is now struggling to hold this position against the upcoming Agias Irinis Square. Here’s some bar namedropping anticlockwise... Use Bar Suppose you are a journalist who wants to write something about Athens hipsters, indie band members and faithful gig goers. Here’s your place! Shakespeare Changed its name this year. A kind of posh choice, don’t miss its homemade white sangria and don’t forget to taste the food. Gin Joint More than 65 varieties of gin shaken to imaginative cocktails and combined with really interesting music by a different disc jockey every night. Stin Priza Many have tried to count them but after a few drinks, none ever remembers how many sockets feature on its walls. It loves 90s music, especially Britpop or Madchester classics. Pairi Daeza The oldest bar on the square. Took its name from the Persian word for “heaven”. Vespa friendly and always ready to throw a party. Blink On the lower side of Karitsi right opposite the church entrance. Get your drink, mingle with the people standing on the pavement and feel the “island” vibe.

❷ Agias Irinis Square (J7

Monastiraki)

The new hip place since last summer, the current most spoken about piazza of Athens. Outdoor tables on the pedestrian street, coffees, newspaper reading and chit-chatting during the daytime, shakers flying when the night falls. Buy a souvlaki from the famous “Costa” place (it closes at 16:30) and fresh flowers from the wooden kiosk in the middle of the square. “Throubi”, “Tailor Made”, “Magaze”, “Rooster” and “Kapaki” are the 5 key café-bars in the shadow of St Irini church. They are forward thinking, gay friendly and they will feed you with snacks, cold dishes, salads and homemade sweets.

Camp! Omonoia) All-day café-bar on the ground floor and an art exhibition space once you go up to the 1st floor. Newly redecorated by Athens arts veterans Georgakopoulos brothers. Efpolidos 4 & Apelou 2, Kotzia sq. (+30) 210 3247679 (Map G8

Bios (Map I3

hot Night spot

TAF / The Art Foundation (Map K6

Monastiraki

A well-known place in the historic centre of Athens, it accommodates various spaces (on different levels) where you can enjoy coffee/booze/sandwiches, stage your play, show your artwork or throw your theme party. Once upon a time it launched a smokers’ political party. It hires only women. Kolokotroni 57 (+30) 210 3240944

Monastiraki)

Located inside the Monastiraki flea market, TAF is one of the city’s most beautiful art/bar spaces. it is an old residential complex dating back to 1870, with a diverse range of old residential rooms now used as exhibition spaces adding to the main white cube gallery and its unique central yard where you can enjoy a drink listening to jazzy sounds. Normanou 5, Monastiraki (+30) 210 3238757 CITY GUIDE summer 2012_93

Tora K44 (Map J1 Kerameikos) Every night, another party! Local bands and DJs alongside very notable foreign guests perform in an industrial space while Athens party goers hang out for chatting and trainspotting (the bar is located just a couple of steps from the railway tracks). Konstantinoupoleos 44, Gazi (+30) 210 3607941

of the Keramikos district. Its long trademark bar stands on the opposite of a wide glass partition where you can take notes on what’s happening on the street. Agisilaou 61A, Keramikos (+30) 210 3457989

THE BAR

Ivi

Galaxy Bar

(Map D11 Omonia) A new bar with tables on Exarchia Square, perfect for the spring time. Modest prices for beers and other drinks, music that changes depending on the spirit. Stays open until late. Modern design with black and wooden details. Stournari 2, Exarchia sq. (+30)210 3303345

(Map K19

Floral

Old School

Megaro Moussikis)

Located on the Athens Hilton rooftop, this is one of the most luxurious places to enjoy a drink in our city while being swept away by the mind-blowing view. It also offers a comprehensive cocktail list and interesting music. Vasilissis Sofias 46, Hilton Hotel (+30) 210 7281402

(Map P8 Akropoli) Offering refreshing cocktails and 45 different brands of beer, Located in one of Athens’s most beautiful footpaths, under the shadow of the Acropolis. Enjoy some of the most delicious coffee blends in town, listening to jazz, blues and rock. Makrigianni 19-21, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9224070

Pop (Map J9

Monastiraki)

8th Sin

Old School

(Map H1 Kerameikos) In just one year, 8th Sin has managed to become a hotspot of Athens. In an industrial space of concrete, iron and sophisticated furniture, you will mingle with well-known fashion designers, artist and models. The ground floor will serve you refreshing cocktails, while In the basement you will discover an underground dance stage on a par with those abroad. Music ranges from new disco to mainstream. Megalou Alexandrou 141, Gazi (+30) 210 3477048

Since 2001 it serves the most talked about “Zombie” cocktail in Athens and gathers scenesters who enjoy its large booze measures. Klitiou 10B, Sintagma (+30) 6980 397976

MARABOU

(Map J9

Baba Au Rum

THE BUSY ONES Belafonte (Map H4

Kerameikos)

Next to its twin bar “Nixon”, it fits well in the industrial flavour

It’s summertime and you are in Athens. Make the most of it…

Panormou str. ( Map A25

Panormou)

Just before you head for the northern suburbs stop by for a drink at “The Beach Of Athens”, or “Athens’ island”, as this neighbourhood is affectionately nicknamed. No sea in sight but definitely a place to relax with some boose.

Marabou Cool spot, cooler terrace with mind-blowing view and funk/soul/jazz vibes. In other words, summertime and the living is easy. Don’t forget to taste its delicious cocktails. The view alone could get you into a flirtatious mood or produce a relaxing, soothing effect on your mind and body. Panormou 113, Ambelokipi

(+30) 210 6910797

Santa Botella Small tables on the street and a terrace perfect for cocktail lovers. Panormou 115A, Ambelokipi

(+30) 210 6981032

Potopolion It might remind you of an Irish pub with its

wooden decoration. Playful tone with rock/funk tunes. Panormou 113, Ambelokipi

94_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

(+30) 210 6911672

GALAXY BAR

Klitiou 6 , Monastiraki

Monastiraki)

Named after the famous dessert but not a sweet shop. Instead it mixes spectacular cocktails based on rare recipes and ingredients often imported by far away places. Have a look at its little booklet-menu and if you feel confused let the staff guide you. (+30) 211 7109140

42 (Map J10

Syntagma)

The last addition in the “authentic cocktail bar” group. It offers a different drinking menu every month based on home made blends. Its noir atmosphere goes along with its elegant evening surroundings. Kolokotroni 3, Syntagma (+30) 6948 242455

THE ATHENS VALUES

e find it hard to file them under a certain category and that’s because they feel like home.

Αbariza (Map J10

Syntagma)

Impressive monastery tables, spectacular booze vitrine that works perfectly as an appetizer and strategic location, ideal for the first or the last drink of the night. Leka 14, Syntagma (+30) 210 3257644

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_95

Andrea Papandreou 15 Glyfada (+30) 210 8985180

Braziliana Petralona) In the must-discover neighbourhood of Ano Petralona. Students, artists and leftists talk with about politics, dance to afro-jazz-latin sounds and grab bites from Greek “tapas” plates. Arkadon 4, Merkouri sq., Ano Petralona (+30) 211 7108428

(Map P1

thens is by no means a sex destination. However, as a big city, it certainly offers a range of sinful pleasures to its locals and visitors. You can head for one of the numerous strip clubs, where girls will table-dance for you or just keep you company if you buy them an (expensive) drink (do not expect much more than this). Most of these clubs have an ongoing dance show, some quite explicit. Fortunately, you only pay for what you get and there aren’t frequent cases of ripping off like it happens in many other European capitals. That is not to say that what you get is cheap. Your entrance with one drink costs €10-15, a table dance of 2-3 minutes €1015 and the ladies’ drinks €20 or more. Most gentlemen’s clubs, as is their self-professed title, are to be found on both sides of Syngrou Av. and are easily recognisable by their bright neon signs, but you can find them elsewhere in town too. Your hotel receptionist will probably be able to point you to one of them.

Cantina Social (Map J5

Monastiraki)

Typical Athenian bar located in a backyard squeezed between apartment buildings. Interesting decoration resembling a junk shop, projections on the walls and well-chosen music. Leokoriou 8, Psiri (+30) 210 3251668

Huge (Map J10

Syntagma)

The exact opposite of its name, a tiny bar located in a central “stoa” (gallery), featuring eclectic electronic and funky tunes. Leka 10 (+30) 211 0145804

Faust (Map J8

Monastiraki)

New entry with an impressive decoration inspired by the interwar period. It hosts different kind of performances. You can call it a modern cabaret if you please. Athinaidos 12 & Kalamiotou, Monastiraki Smokin (+30) 210 3234095 g

Alexandrino (Map E11

Omonia)

in pub has bee lic places n Lola bannedofficially ( Petralona) 2010. I since In the heart of Kato Petralona, “talk of the town” "must" f you sm last winter. Always a good choice if you want to ask firsoke, t. move from downtown.

This small bar is like a Parisian bistrot. Always full, it epitomises the true boemian spirit of the Exarchia neighborhood. It's definitely worth giving it a shot. Em. Mpenaki 69A, Exarchia (+30) 210 3827780

Floral Omonia)

The “Blue Building” is the crest of the Exarchia sq. –one of the most typical examples of pre-World War II architecture–, and Floral on its ground floor is an all-day coffeehouse/bookstore with daily cultural events. Themistokleous 80, Exarchia sq. (+30) 210 3800.070

Inoteka Monastiraki)

Tiny bar located in the middle of antique shops on Avissinias sq. A nest for the blossoming Athens electronica during the 90s, every respected Greek DJ has spun a few records there. Avissinias sq. 3, Monastiraki (+30) 210 3246446

La Soiree de Votanique (Map E1

Kerameikos)

Cosy little bar in the upcoming Votanikos neighbourhood. They love black music played from vinyl. Every Thursday afternoon they host the Athens Vespa Club meeting. Kastorias 37, Votanikos (+30) 210 3471401

Why Sleep? (Map I1

Kerameikos)

Between a small club and a big bar, widely talked about for its “natural” décor, the big yard inside and its wonderful terrace. Voutadon 52, Gazi (+30) 693 7688266 96_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

(+30) 213 0159902

Tiki Athens (Map Q7

(Map D11

(Map J6

Kiriadon 11, Kato Petralona

Akropoli)

Vintage atmosphere, tropical decoration and a matching soundtrack mixing old/retro sounds with easy listening stuff and indie live gigs. Falirou 15, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9236908

Villa Mercedes ( Kerameikos) The last megaclub of Athens by the famous DJ/club owner Vasili Tsilichristos, it gathers celebrities and wannabes, athletes and models, mainstream lovers and careless dancers. Andronikou & Tzaferi 11, Rouf (+30) 210 3422606 -886

Barteserra (Map J9

Syntagma)

For 8 years, it welcomes in its two halls –separated by a beautiful atrium– young actors, new artists who use its alternative exhibition space and down-townies in search of a cold beer. Kolokotroni 25, Syntagma (+30) 210 3229805

Key Bar (Map I9

Monastiraki)

Run by a all-female team, it attracts large crowds who listen to quality, diversified music, take advantage of its afternoon happy hour and taste its small daily menu with gourmet plates. Praxitelous 37, Monastiraki (+30) 210 3230380

Tribeca (Map H13

Panepistimio)

Named after NY famous neighbourhood, it represents Kolonaki’s most casual part (don’t you dare call it indie). Delicious bruschettas during the day and quality music by night. Skoufa & Omirou 46, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3623541

Hoxton (Map I1

Kerameikos)

Right next to the metro entrance, industrially decorated and a touch of Chesterfield sofas, it’s a perfect spot to mingle or observe the Gazi night travelers. Voutadon 42, Gazi (+30) 210 3413395

Perfect Ten (Map J16

Evangelismos)

The founding principle of “Perfect Ten” is that you go there after Saturday shopping for a coffee or a quick lunch, and before you know it, your watch is ticking 8 hours later… Ploutarchou 10, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7210161

Nipiagogio (Map J1

Kerameikos)

Housed in an old kindergarten building, from the days Gazi wasn't a popular area to go out, it stays relevant as a place where you can listen to the best black music in town. Elasidon 8 & Kleanthous, Gazi (+30) 210 3458534

Tokyo (Map G12

Panepistimio)

Its main attraction is the Tokyo tube map on the ceiling – hence

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_97

They aren’t pharmacies, but they stay open all night, thus justifying the famous Athenian cliché of a “city that never sleeps”. 04:00 and you need a drink? Here’s where to head for and mingle with the hard workers of the Athenian night. Expect drunk looks and talk all over the place.

MGs (Map F22 Ambelokipi) Possibly the most typical after-hours watering hole. If you happen to be there before 01:00, there’ll be barely 5 people around. But don’t be disappointed: three hours later it’ll be crowded as hell with people listening to traditional rock. Soutsou 11, Mavili sq.

The Seven Jokers (Map J10 Syntagma) If you’ve had one too few or you’re a nightlife worker and have finished your shift, this is open till dawn. Music varies from Liverpool FC’s anthem “You’ll Never Walk Alone” to 60s Greek pop hits. Every Friday, the rule is... hang the DJ if he doesn’t spin Rolling Stones’ “She’s A Rainbow”. Voulis 7, Sintagma

(+30) 210 3219225

Mo’Better (Map E10 Omonia) Probably Athens’ last original rock house. Stays open until very late (or too early, if you prefer). Guitar distortion is the password, and once you go up its stairs your night gets elevated… Themistokleous 32, Exarchia (+30) 210 3812981

the name. it creates an eclectic atmosphere during winter and reproduces island bar hopping in the summertime. Sina 21, Kolonaki (+30) 213 0035558

Intrepid Fox (Map I1

Kerameikos)

A big pool table in the middle, gig posters featuring rock stars on the walls, a couple of cages to rough things up and a wide bar. It’s the place to be, assuming you don’t have a problem when music gets noisy, usually involving loud guitars. If you’re lucky you might attend a punk rock live concert. Triptolemou 31, Gazi (+30) 210 3466055

ATHENS SEAFRONT

araliaki is the signature word for the Athens coastal avenue. There you can actually enjoy your drink/food by the sea waves. Of course this is also home to the city’s summer nightclubbing.It’s posh, glam, underclothed, trendy, fresh, youthful and all these are happening within the 40-km stretch from Neo Faliro to Sounio. Just drive safely and watch out for alcohol testing by the police.

Akrotiri A great chance to experience Athens version of celebrity culture, with “Greek Nights”, R’n’B parties and “Commercial House” tributes. This summer their menu is Greek modern. King George B΄ 5, Agios Kosmas Beach (+30) 210 9859147-9

B.E.D. Boutique Yaya Mainstream dance music, R’n’B - house tunes, sexy dancers and every Thursday a party called “Sweet Disposition”. Posidonos 58, Glifada (+30) 210 8941620

Batman ( Neos Kosmos) No signs, no labels, but you can check the “connoisseur” status of your Athenian friends or guides by asking them Istioploikos to take you there. If they don’t know the capital’s most unique bar, where you can listen to Greek folk mu( Faliro) sic followed by The Beatles and mingle with origLooks like a boat’s deck as it stands over "Sfinak inal night figures, they have a lot to learn about the sea and offers a magnificent view in for sho i" stands t / "Kok their city… Vristhenis 40 , Neos Kosmos the Piraeus’ Mikrolimano district. mea al (+30) 210 9241585

ns "d o" "Bomb ead drunk" / a " equal "bad" o sa r Say "sk spoiled drink eto" wh / en want yo ur drin you k straigh t.

LATE night bites Athens is also “the city that never stops being hungry”. So don’t worry, there are always places to turn to when the night is over and your stomach is crying out for some food to soak up all that booze. We usually head for the small canteens and order “vromiko”(dirty), an enriched version of hot dog (it might include french fries, cheese/ham etc.). Top-3 choices The legendary one on Mavili sq. • The red wagon outside Panteion University at Syngrou Av. • Schweinchen Dick (Iakhou 9-11, Gazi) – new entry which brings German habits and “wursts” to Greek fast food politics. If they ask you “apola?”, have a look at the display of extra ingredients before making a quick decision. It means “everything”. Don’t say we didn’t warn you…

98_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Akti Mikrolimanou (+30) 210 4134804

Island

Just 15 km from the centre of Athens, this modern club-restaurant captures the spirit and colours of the Cyclades. Mediterranean menu at a spectacular seaside location. 27th km Athens - Sounio Road, Varkiza (+30) 210 9653563-4

Shisha Open air club with a sea view, young crowd and a musical offering that combines mainstream dance with oriental tunes, accompanied by a dazzling dance show. Piece & Friendship Stadium, Neo Faliro (+30) 210 4633701-771

The Bar All day café-bar with retro atmosphere powered by a relevant soundtrack. They love blues/rock and don’t identify themselves with the trendy crowds of Glydada suburb. Give it a shot and you ’ll know what we mean. Andrea Papandreou 15, Glyfada (+30) 210 8985180

BOUZOYKIA Fun Greek-Style

Photo : Nikolareas - daskalakis - poypoylidoy

By GEORGE DIMITRAKOPOULOS

The econommost to live t ic way experiehis exotic bookin nce is by four pe g a table for rson the cost s. Share an enjoy. d Popular Greek singer Giorgos Mazonakis in a bouzoukia pista

usic and dance constitutes an important part of daily life in Greece. The most popular, mainstream entertainment option is a type of distinctly Greek night club known as bouzoukia, a.k.a. hot club or pista. The name bouzoukia originates from the traditional Greek string instrument, the bouzouki, which gives laika (popular) songs an oriental feel. The new bouzoukia have kept the oriental elements and the sound of the bouzouki but they have also incorporated new, faster beats and loud mainstream pop tunes like Europop, R&B or even hip-hop and rap music. Prominent performers in bouzoukia or pistas include Sakis Rouvas, Anna Vissi, Helena Paparizou and Antonis Remos. Dancing on top of tables, flowers thrown in appreciation and lots of clapping all signal a typical night at bouzoukia. Book early and dip into the Greek way of fun.

Fantasia From Friday to Sunday, Nikos Vertis. Poseidonos Avenue 5, Elliniko (+30) 210 8940203

poulos. Until the end of May. Poseidonos Avenue 26-28, Tzitzifies (+30) 2109400726-7

Frangelico From Thursday to Sunday Nikos Kourkoulis. Followed by Kostas Karafotis, Eleana Papaioannou and Andreas Stamos. Poseidonos Avenue 35, Kalamaki (+30) 210 9843630, 210 9843250

Sakis Rouvas. Followed separately by Antonis Remos and Giorgos Mazonakis. Vasileos Constantinou B58, Glyfada (+30) 210 8983179

Paralia Live From Saturday to Tuesday, Angela Dimitriou Dimitris Giotis Poseidonos Avenue, Kalamaki (+30) 210 9817980 Posidonio From Thursday to Saturday, Panos Kiamos. Poseidonos Avenue 18, Elliniko (+30) 210 8941033-35

Caramela Live From Tuesday to

Romeo From Thursday to Sunday, Christos Cholidis, Yiorgos Yannias and Thelxi. Ellinikou 1, Elliniko (+30) 210 8945345

Sunday, Yiorgos Tsalikis, Chrispa. Sygrou Avenue 165, Nea Smirni (+30) 210 9323560-1

Teatro Music Hall From Friday to Saturday, Vasilis Karras - Nikos Makro-

Thalassa People's Stage

Thea From Friday to Saturday, Peggy Zina, Paola and Loukas Giorkas. Poseidonos Avenue 3, Kalamaki (+30) 210 9813950, 210 9248211 Vip@Skyladiko From Friday to Saturday, Petros Imvrios - Giorgos Marinis. Sygrou Avenue 338, Kallithea (+30) 210 9519219, 210 9570400 Vox From Thursday to Saturday, Panos Kalidis, Konstantinos Argyros, Stella Kalli. Until the end of May. Iera Odos 16, Athens (+30) 210 3411000 CITY GUIDE summer 2012_99

Santos

8 years later By Panagiotis Menegos

Μany generations of Greeks grew up, watching great football competitions with their home team absent. Greece’s first attempt was EURO 1980 in Italy which was a decent try resulting to 1 point and 1 goal in 3 matches. Our first World Cup – USA ’94 – was a whole different story. 3 matches, zero points, 10 goals conceded and a general feeling that it would have been better if we had never made it there.

o we took part in the EURO 2004 without many expectations. We were just happy to finally be there and listen to the Greek national anthem in the opening ceremony (we played the opening game against the host Portugal… and won!). And we witnessed, alongside the whole world, the greatest sport surprise of all-time. Humble Greek national football team winning the European Championship? It was way beyond a football dream and all Greeks went crazy. The 22-day party in the country’s streets climaxed on the 7th of July with the final: Portugal - Greece, 0-1. The rest is history… That unbelievable triumph was the beginning of a stable performance in the following years. However, carried away by the success, the team missed World Cup 2006, but came back in EURO 2008 's Greecend and two years later in South Africa’s 2010 World Cup. And here first roeunts: oppon 8th) - we are again this summer in Poland and Ukraine. In fact, (Jun Poland Republic we ’re again playing one of h c Cze )h t the host teams in the open2 1 n (Ju ing game (Poland, June 8th). a i s s u R Anyone mumbling: “history reth) (Jun16 peats itself”? 100_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

The Coach Portuguese Fernando Santos had a difficult task filling the shoes of the legendary German Otto Rehhagel, the coach who revived Greek football. And he delivered perfectly. Leading the team to the great tournaments, currently positioned 14th in the FIFA ranking table and with new faces in the roster. He likes discipline and defence but with an offensive strategy to exploit the opponent's weaknesses.

Some players to watch Giorgos Karagounis Τhe star captain (115 apps), he is the link with the old 2004 golden team. Vasilis Torosidis Αn all-round midfielder, fresh blood for the team. Fanis Gekas Α goal machine, has scored 21 times in 56 apps. Sokratis Papastathopoulos Νew generation quality defender, plays in Bundesliga after joining Milan. Giorgos Samaras Α Celtics player, adds class and high technique in the mix. Kostas Katsouranis The brain. The defensive midfielder of Panathinaikos is the equivalent of a coach on the field. Organises the game, guides his teammates, and scores when necessary.

WATCH IT LIVE WITH A BEER! By Lena Chourmouzi, Panagiotis Menegos

raditional Irish pubs with loud lads. Bavarian style Bierhaus where the taps spew cold Pilsner. Polish bars for crystal clear vodka shots. Squares and kafenia full of rowdy Greeks. They may differ in style but they all have big flat TV screens to watch EURO 2012 live in Athens!

to keep your fingers crossed for a British invasion James Joyce

(Map J6 Thissio) They serve the best draught beers in town as their Irish management make sure that drinks are stored and poured to the highest standards. The place has plenty of TV screens. Astiggos 12

Molly Malone’s

(Tram Paralia Glyfadas) The best place to watch football after a swim. It’s an authentic Irish pub and a very popular nightspot. Yiannitsopoulou 8, Glyfada

Wee Dram ( Panormou) A “Scotch & Whiskey” bar, screening all big sports events Konopisopoulou 23 & Logothetidi

To watch the games with the tournament semi hosts Go to Mihail Voda str. You will find many Polish restaurants and bars there as it is the main street of the Polish community district in Athens. ( Victoria)

To test if “football is a game where 22 players compete and in the end Germany always wins” Try the Bayern Bierhaus. Though a bit far from the city centre it’ s worth a visit just for its lovely, spacious yard. Hristoforou Nezer 19 (Tram Paralia Glyfadas)

To mingle with an international crowd Athens Sports Bar

(Map P8 Akropoli) The backpackers’ paradise. Happy hour every night from 19:00 till 20:00. Veikou 3A

To shout Greek style for “Hellas” Greeks prefer watching football in traditional kafenia (coffee places also serving alcohol) and of course in any café with big flat screens and a terrace mood. Mouria in Exarchia (Map 13E Panepistimio) is a great example of the former, a very typical hangout for football fans. You can also go to the modern cafés of Diomias str. (crossing Ermou).

Sattelite Sports CafÅ ( Sygrou-Fix) Almost 30 screens playing non stop sports events, “served” with club sandwiches, hamburgers and other sport friendly food. Syggrou Ave 178, Kalithea

SCHEDULE GROUP A

8 June, 19:00 Poland 8 June, 21:45 Russia 12 June, 19:00 Greece 12 June, 21:45 Poland 16 June, 21:45 Greece 16 June, 21:45 Czech Republic

WARSAW

Greece

Czech Republic

Russia

Poland

WROCLAW WROCLAW WARSAW WARSAW WROCLAW

GROUP Β

9 June, 19:00 Netherlands 9 June, 21:45 Germany 13 June, 19:00 Denmark 13 June, 21:45 Netherlands 17 June, 21:45 Portugal 17 June, 21:45 Denmark

KHARKIV

Denmark

Portugal

Germany

Netherlands

Germany

LVIV LVIV KHARKIV KHARKIV LVIV

GROUP C

10 June, 19:00 GDANSK Italy Spain 10 June, 21:45 POZNAN Croatia Ireland 14 June, 19:00 POZNAN Croatia Italy 14 June, 21:45 GDANSK Ireland Spain 18 June, 21:45 GDANSK Spain Croatia 18 June, 21:45 POZNAN Ireland Italy

GROUP D

11 June, 19:00 France 11 June, 21:45 Ukraine 15 June, 19:00 Ukraine 15 June, 21:45 Sweden 19 June, 21:45 Sweden 19 June, 21:45 England

England

Sweden

France

England

France

Ukraine

DONETSK KYIV DONETSK KYIV KYIV DONETSK

QUARTER FINALS 21 June, 21:45 A (WINNER GRP A VS RUNNER UP GRP B) 22 June, 21:45 B (WINNER GRP B VS RUNNER UP GRP A) 23 June, 21:45 C (WINNER GRP C VS RUNNER UP GRP D) 24 June, 21:45 D (WINNER GRP D VS RUNNER UP GRP C)

WARSAW DONETSK KYIV

SEMI – FINALS 27 June, 21:45 (WINNER QF A VS WINNER QF C) 28 June, 21:45 (WINNER QF B VS WINNER QF D)

DONETSK WARSAW

FINAL 1 July, 21:45 (WINNER SF1. VS WINNER SF II.)

KYIV *All times are Greek (UTC+3) CITY GUIDE summer 2012_101

Dead Can Dance

The Prodigy

You cankasa ala go to M e by train b i TerraVali” station), (“Sfendspecially on s ed buse charteryour own or with hicle. ve

Orbital

Iggy and the Stooges

Kasabian

Red Hot Chili Peppers

Dustbowl, at “Athens Voice” Stage, European Music Day 2010

Ozzy Osbourne

divE in live Make your summer in Athens bustle with music By GEORGE DIMITRAKOPOULOS

RED HOT AND CHILLY

he summer was made for open festivals and the weather in Athens is a perfect match for this type of fun. If you want to lighten up your stay in Athens, some really big music names will appear to a-usually-open theatre near you. Red Hot Chili Peppers, Iggy Pop, Ozzy, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Dead Can Dance and the recently reformed Afghan Whigs are some of them. Along with Kasabian, James, Prodigy, Moon Duo, Sepultura and Paradise Lost, these artists offer a wide variety of music choices to combine your travel with love for music and partying. This is our guide to some of the best music acts that you can experience this summer.

MAY

29.05.12 THE AFGHAN WHIGS The unexpected reformation of Greg Dulli and the Afghan Whigs. Vox

JUNE

02.06.12 SEPULTURA Brazilian heavy metal legends with guests Suicidal Angels, Flames, Hammercult and Verdict. Fuzz 07.06.12 SACRED REICH Old school Thrashers 23 years after the release of their debut album. Gagarin 205 09.06.12 METAL FESTIVAL Death and thrash metal from Exodus, Obituary, Heathen, Morgoth. Fuzz 15&16.06.12 BLIND GUARDIAN German heavy-metal quartet with voices in the dark. Fuzz 18.06.12 LYNYRD SKYNYRD Florida’s classic boogie rockers continue to tour keeping their biggest hit “Sweet Home Alabama” for the finale of their setlist. Olympic Baseball Center 23.06.12 ORBITAL Get your dancing shoes on as the veteran ravers return to Athens. More t.b.a. Olympic Games Complex 27.06.12 EJEKT FESTIVAL The first wave of acts includes British rockers Kasabian as headliners, Greek audience favourites James, Miles Kane and Katzenjammer. More t.b.a. Olympic Games Complex 30.06.12 ROCKWAVE FESTIVAL Opening Day of the biggest music festival in Greece with the new Spanish ska punk group The Locos which were recently formed by the singer of Ska-P. More t.b.a. Malakasa TerraVibe

JULY

01.07.12 ROCKWAVE FESTIVAL A chance to catch Ozzy Osbourne & Friends. Consider Slash one of them. Other bands confirmed for this year’s metal meeting include Machine Head, Paradise Lost, Unisonic, Planet of Zeus and Lucky Funeral. Malakasa TerraVibe 02.07.12 ROCKWAVE FESTIVAL Third day’s line-up includes The Prodigy ravers who enjoyed their previous gig in Athens, Iggy & the Stooges who “destroy” every gig in Athens, Everlast and Peter Hook & The Light who will be performing the seminal Joy Division album “Unknown Pleasures”. Malakasa TerraVibe 16.07.12 MORRISSEY The former Smiths frontman proves that some icons are bigger than others. Lycabettus Theatre

SEPTEMBER

04.09.12 RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS See one of the most beloved bands in the world, feel the funk metal vibe and expect to hear all the hits – “Give it Away”, “Higher Ground”, “Scar Tissue” and, of course, “Californication”. OAKA 23.09.12 DEAD CAN DANCE If you are still in Athens, do not miss the hauntingly stunning performance of this Australian duo at an excellent open theatre. Lycabettus Theatre

● LycabettusTheatre (Map F17 Panepistimio) Lycabettus Hill (+30) 210 7227209 ● Fuzz Live Music Club Pireos 209 & Patriarchou Ioakim 1, Tavros (+30) 210 3450817 ● Olympic Baseball Center Helliniko Olympic Complex, Ellinikon (+30) 210 9611240 Tram/Bus stop: Agia Skepi ● OAKA ( Neratziotissa / Irini) Kifisias 37, Maroussi (+30) 210 6834060-61 ● Vox (Map I3 Kerameikos) Iera Odos 16, Keramikos (+30) 210 210961118 ● Utopia 12@

Gazi Music Hall

(Map I3 Kerameikos) Iera Odos 7-13, Gazi (+30) 210 3428272 ● Gagarin 205 Live Music Space ( Attiki) Liosion 205, Attiki (+30) 210 8547600 ● MalakasaTerraVibe 37th km of the AthensLamia Motorway (+30) 210 8820426

EUROPEAN MUSIC DAY 2012 As in the rest of Europe, it is also celebrated in Athens, by attending concerts and music events in squares, drinking beer and dancing when the night falls. This year European Music Day is celebrated from 19.06 to 21.06 and is held at Kotzia sq., Monastiraki, Syntagma sq. and Thissio alongside many bars and art spaces. As in previous years, Athens Voice free press, publisher of this guide, has its own stage on Klafthmonos sq. We wil be happy to see you there on 21.06, enjoying the best of new Greek indie bands and solo artists we discovered this season. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_103

Konstantinoupoleos 8, Gazi Open 23:30, Thu-Sun

(+30) 694 6282845

Big (Map J1 Kerameikos) Athens bears found their favourite hangout spot in this friendly and unassuming bar. Falesias 12 & Iera Odos 67, Gazi (+30) 694 6282845 Open 22:00-03:00/ Closed Mon • www.barbig.gr Blue Train (Map H1 Kerameikos) Fun with friends, and maybe some flirting with fellow customers. Konstantinoupoleos 84, Gazi (+30) 210 3460677 Open 20:00-03:00 Fou Club (Map H1 Kerameikos) Bears and leather in one of the most famous gay clubs in Athens Iera Odos & Keleou 8 (+30) 210 3466800, 694 6222222 Open 23:00/ Closed Tue • www.fouclub.gr

GAY

ATHENS 2012 LOVE ME, IT'S FREE

Moe (Map H1 Kerameikos) Dance club, open from late night till late morning. Greek mainstream club hits and (+30) 695 5263015 drag shows Keleou 1-5, Gazi Open 24:00 Spray (Map E4 Metaxourghio) Dance, fun and flirt, sometimes even over the bar Kolonou 76, Metaxourgio (+30) 693 6595466 Open everyday 22:00 / Sat 23:30 Admission free: Fri

By MARIZA MANTZIOU

My Bar (Map J7 Monastiraki) Began 4 years ago and

ay or straight, let’s just say that Athenians are a little bit “shy” on public display of affection. Athens may not be New York or Amsterdam but overall it is a fairly tolerant place, with numerous gay-friendly beaches, gay bars and clubs. Mykonos may be the ultimate gay destination, however, Athens has its own share on gay life, with the trendy area of Gazi, where most of the Athenian gay and lesbian nightlife scene is located.

My Bar

CAFES El Cielo (Map H1 Kerameikos) Summer bar with beautiful terrace. Open every day during the summer. Special cocktails and drinks. Konstantinoupoleos 84,Gazi (+30) 210 3460677 Open 22:00-morning • www.facebook.com/elcielobar

BAR / CLUBS Bear Code ( Kerameikos) Bears, leather and dance till you drop. The club holds bear events from all over Europe. In its eighth year now, the Athens Pride will parade through the historic centre of Athens on the 9th of June with the slogan “Love me, It’s Free”. It’s an all-day free event in Klafthmonos Square (Map I10 Panepistimio) and is attended by many thousands. Community activities are scheduled for the preceding Pride Week, with a special performance by Männer-Minne, the Gay Men’s Choir of Berlin, on June 8 at 20:00 in Kapnikareas Square (MapK8 Syntagma/Monastiraki). On Saturday, Pride Square becomes alive from 11:00 onwards. The Parade is at 18:00, followed by a live concert and dance party until late.

104_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

[at] adult theaters

it has become one of the most popular bars/clubs in the city. Strong cocktails, cool and friendly atmosphere, young trendy crowds, theme Sundays, white minimal decoration, light cruising Kakourgiodikiou 6, Monastiraki (+30) 694 7439004 Open from 23:00/ Closed Wen • www.mybar.gr

Noiz

(Map H1

Kerameikos)

A warm and friendly bar for girls who like girls, brought to you by a pioneer team in the gay/lesbian nightlife scene Konstantinoupoleos 78 & Iera Odos, Gazi (+30) 210 3467850 Open 23:00/ Closed Tue • facebook.com/noizclubgaz

Rooster (Map J8 Monastiraki) New hot meeting point at the centre of Athens, an all day café-bar-restaurant on the hip square of the city. For devoted fans and art lovers it hosts a new exhibition every month. Friendly staff. Its flagship party Athens U-NiGHT! has become one of the best LGBT fund raising events in town. Agias Irinis Sq. 4, Monastiraki (+30) 210 3224410 Open 08:00-02:00 S-cape Army Academy

(Map H1

Kerameikos)

Super sized LGBT club with an army theme and a strong presence on the gay night club scene. Megalou Alexandrou 139, Gazi (+30) 210 3411003 Open everyday 23:30-04:00 • www.s-capeclub.gr

Sodade 2

(MAP I1 Kerameikos) Always packed and super fun gay club in two stages. Mixed crowd. Triptolemou 10, Gazi (+30) 210 3468657 Open 23:30-06:00

SEX CLUBS Attraxx (Map H2 Kerameikos) 220 m2 of cruising area. Clean, safe, fun. Dark rooms, projection rooms, private cabins, screens and mirrors. Iakhou 36, Gazi Open 24h/7d • attraxx.gr Fcuk

(Map H1 Kerameikos) Old-time classic dark room with hardcore screening of gay movies, private cabins, glory holes and sling. Keleou 3 • www.fc-uk.gr

SAUNAS Alexander Sauna

(Map H1 Kerameikos) A sauna with a cruising area, a cosy patio, the largest Labyrinth steam & foam playroom in town and an X-action zone for xxx-parties and events (including international porn stars) Megalou Alexandrou 134, Gazi (+30) 210 6980282, (+30) 6936959134 Open 17:00-3:00 /Fri-Sun 19:00-17:00 € Admission: €15 Happy hour: 17:00-19:00/ €10 Three visits tourist pass: €35 • www.alexandersauna.gr

Flex Sauna Men's Spa

(Map I8

Monastiraki)

Gym and sauna under the same roof in the centre of the city. 3 saunas, 2 Jacuzzis, a steam room, cruising area, glory holes, roof garden, rest and dark rooms, free wifi Colourful Planet: and a “military/leather” The only gay bookstore in room to keep you busy Athens. You will find a wide for hours. variety of publications, both Polyklitou 6 Greek and international. (+30) 210 3210539 Antoniadou 6 & Patision Open 14:00-03:00, (+30) 210 8826600 weekends 14:00-07:00 www.colourful € Admission: €10 planet.com Bear day every Wed • www. facebook.com/flexsauna

BOOKSTORE

CINEMAS [at] adult theaters

(Map E6

Metaxourghio)

New and very spacious erotic place with cinema, private cabins, dungeon, glory holes, thematic nights. Karolou 8, Metaxourgio (+30) 210 5225038 Open daily/ Sun-Thu 23:00-03:00 & Fri-Sat 23:00-04:00 Admission: €7 www.adulttheaters.gr

BEAUTY & THE BEASTS 8-10 June 2012

· Athens Pride Weekend, www.athenspride.eu · Fou International Bear Weekend ÉÉÉ at the Fou Club · Mister Gay Greece & Cyprus 2012 event at the S-Cape Army Academy CITY GUIDE summer 2012_105

g heotouurrisst s Opeepntin p for th ost sho

Εxc e Plaka, m and ots, lik on Sundays th the p s t o h wi sed are clo l Holidays – , patisseries, a s p n l o o i h t s Na wer Officia n of flo and the like. 9:00-21:00 o i t p e c ex s are 0 stores liquor opening hour:00-20:00 on ller 9 a s s 0 ( e busin n weekdays ver, many smking e r o o w o w r H ays). e olde Saturd esses keep th fter 15:00 on n a n i s d e u s b clo betwee hours ( ed, Sat and on Tue, W Mon, 0 and 17:30 . ri) 14:3 Thu, F

By ELISA SINADINOU 106_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

espite the current economic situation, Athenians still love shopping, usually hitting the streets every Friday afternoon and Saturday morning for some window-or-realshopping. If you’re willing to spend your money shopping, you’ll find plenty of opportunities downtown, suitable for all budgets. Bargaining/haggling is not a common practice in the shops of Athens, especially in chain stores. However, if you ask for a better price in a small shop, it is likely that you will be given one. Watch out for discounts and special offers across stores of every type – in the last couple of years, they have become quite common. For souvenir and gift shopping, museum shops offer a wide variety of quality products with a distinctly Greek character.

Basic Tips

ales The official sales periods are mid-anuary to mid-February and mid-July until the end of August. In the last couple of years, discounts are bigger than ever.

redit cards Use of credit cards in Greece is popular and will be accepted in most shops, especially in tourist areas. However, keep cash handy for smaller shops, such as flower shops, periptera or souvlatzidika (small establishments which serve the local delicacy of souvlaki).

here to shop Downtown. Whether you’re up for some luxury shopping or eager to explore a flea market for collectors and vintage lovers, you won’t be let down. A visitor’s first choice is usually Plaka: here, you’ll find standard memorabilia that tourists love and Athenians despise. If you look carefully, though, you might find some real gems, like hand made jewelry and shoe wear. Nearby, Monastiraki is home to a famous Athenian flea market, which will fulfill the desires of vintage lovers, as well as aficionados of records, jewellery, clothes, and shoes. Shop owners in this area are usually bargain-friendly. In fact, you will often find them outside their stores, inviting you to come in. Athens’ Central Market is the perfect place to buy some local herbs to take home. Ermou str. is a shopping paradise: a pedestrian street with large windows, and a great variety of goodies, from clothes and jewellery to shoes and gifts. Last but not least, Kolonaki is the place to be if you’re looking for some expensive brand shopping. Prices here are high, salespersons are sometimes a bit lofty, but you can find any piece of luxury clothing you desire. Check here for special prizes, as well. Just beware: it is tempting to buy counterfeit sunglasses and bags from illegal traders you will meet in the streets, but the quality is not guaranteed, there is no returns policy and this kind of trading is illegal in Greece. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_107

100% Greece Ioanna Soulioti and Maria Yeroula, two dynamic and creative women active in fashion and business over the last 20 years, have created the all-Greek brand name “is my scarf”. Their passion for creativity and love for Greece have encouraged them to develop an activity that highlights modern Greece through an integrated system of production. From raw materials and production to design and distribution, everything utilized in this project is 100% Greek. Three different patterns captured in this top quality, exclusively Greek silk give shape to what until now was only an idea. Fifteen famous Greek fashion photographers will shoot “is my scarf”, each in their own artistic way, in a venue that promotes modern Greek creativity: the Benaki Museum. The exhibition will be held on Wednesday 30 May at 20:00. Revenues from sales of projects will go to the museum. The scarves are sold at the Benaki Museum shop, the shop Meli in the collection “Things We Love in Athens” of Kirios Criton, Free Shop - Mykonos and at selected locations throughout Greece. (+30) 698 3645326 ismy.gr @ gmail.com

FASHION DESIGNER WEAR Balenciaga

(Map I13

Evangelismos)

Bright, minimal boutique with small miracles. Tsakalof 28, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7290151

H&M

H&M is afforda synonymous ble wit and hig as well as up-t h h quality o-date compa fash n created y’s clothing co ion. The llec by makers its own design tions are ers and buy e rs. Sta , pattern Omonia diou 4 (Map G9 Omonia 9, (+30) 21 ) 0 3 2 12920 Ermou (Map K1 22, Syntagma 0 Sy (+30) 21 ntagma) 0 www.hm 3223420 .com

Diane Von Furstenberg (Map I14

Evangelismos)

Since 1972, wrap dresses that form a way of life for Diane. Xanthou 5, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3624004 Kolokotroni 14, Kifisia (+30) 210 8081999

Enny Di Monaco

(Map J 15

Evangelismos)

Mugler, Louboutin, Nina Ricci, Zac Posen... shall we say more? Herodotou 23, Kolonaki (+30)210 7290805

Favella Dress Code

(Map H13

Evangelismos

Colorfoul funky clothes and accessories from all around 108_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_109

the world. Brittish Sugarhill Boutique and Ruby Rocks, but also Greek Mary's Fairies and A2L. Dresses and accessories by many more brands. Skoufa 71A, Kolonaki (+30) 211 7250213

Free Shop (Map I13

Panepistimio)

Perfect T-Shirts, Margiela clothes,unique jewelry and accessories. A modern “colette”. Voukourestiou 50 (+30) 210 3641308

Gucci

(Map I13

Evangelismos)

Indulge yourself. Don’t forget the Jackie ’O purse. Tsakalof 27, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3602519

Hermès

(Map I13

Panepistimio)

Endless window shopping. Arty displays. Hermès. City Link, Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3233715

Linea Piu

(Map K13

Panepistimio)

Greek Rue Cambon.Chanel, Blumarine, Galliano, Tom Ford. All chosen carefully. Sekeri 6, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3606125 • www.lineapiu.gr

Louis Vuitton

(Map I13

Panepistimio)

Style does matter and this is the real thing. Voukourestiou 19, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3613938

Luisa

(Map I13

Panepistimio)

Designer names from Lanvin and Chloé to Cavalli and Stella McCartney. And not forgetting Yves Saint Laurent, Manolo Blahnik, Pucci and Jean Paul Gaultier. Skoufa 15, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3635600 • www.luisa.gr

Mah Jong

(Map J13

Panepistimio)

The atmosphere tranports you straight to Tanino Crisi’s store in Florence. Mah Jong addresses customers who pay attention to the details. Kanari 14, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3622860

Μarc By Marc Jacobs

(Map I14

Evangelismos)

Retro-chic and vintage, girly details, oversized accessories. Xanthou 3, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3636030

Mulberry

(Map I13

Panepistimio)

The “English look”, straight to Kolonaki from Somerset. Voukourestiou 16, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3613082 Golden Hall (+30) 210 6837793

Prada (Map I13

Panepistimio)

The Devil wore them and here you too can purchase a small “devilish” piece. Then you might want to change your name to Meryl. Voukourestiou 17, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3388386

Sotris

(Map I14

Evangelismos)

The most glamourous clothes from famous exclusive brands like Topshop, Dries Van Noten, Marni. Vintage pieces can be found at the first address. Anagnostopoulou 30, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3639281 Voukourestiou 41 & Tsakalof (+30) 210 3610662 Golden Ηall, 1st floor • www.sotris.gr DASSIOS BOUTIQUE

110_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Wesc Wesc is a very popular brand among the youth

(and the young-at-heart) of Greece. Casual lifestyle clothing, urban/street designs, describes perfectly the way Athenians dress in their everyday lives. From men’s jeans to ladies’ outwear, any casual fashion lover loves them. www.wesc.com

Trussardi Jeans

(Map J13

Syntagma)

All jeans and all luxurious accessories branded with the famous greyhound. Solonos 1, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3641429

GREEK DESIGNERS Boho

(Map J15

Evangelismos)

Modern boutique with a huge variety of clothes, from T-shirts and evening dresses to jewellery (you will also find Alcozer), bags and elegant vests. Bohemian vibe and 70s chic style. Don’t hesitate to ask Chistiana Verouka for style tips. For all ages and all budgets. Karneadou 15 & Loukianou, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7231136

Lamda Alpha by Lambros Apostolos

Dassios Boutique

(Map I9

The only Greek designer with such a popular appeal

Syntagma)

(Map I14

Evangelismos)

This Greek American designer is known for his remarkable T-shirts. All shirts are made of 100% cotton and with a variety of bold prints. Praxitelous 33 (+30) 211 0120414

Polo Ralph Lauren

(Map J11

Syntagma)

The world of Ralph Lauren, including men’s clothing, shoes and accessories. Voukourestiou 11, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3611831

Lacoste (Map J13

LACOSTE

Syntagma)

Ultra chic for the old school fans. Polos in every pantone colour. Solonos 5, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3618030

Nike

(Map J13

Syntagma)

The world’s favourite sports brand right on the most casual square of Athens. Ermou 1, Syntagma sq. (+30) 210 3224407 CITY GUIDE summer 2012_111

in cities like St.Tropez, Modena, Mallorca, Imola, Porto Montenegro, Tokyo, Capri, Milan, New York, Paris, Istanbul, Qatar, Florence. In his collection, you will find bags, jean jackets, silk holiday kaftans, waistocoats, jewellery that allude to his Greek roots. Unique creations of authentic handmade materials from Middle East, leather, fabric and silk. Xanthou 7, Kolonaki (+30) 210 9573582 www.dassios.com

Deux Hommes

(Map J13

Panepistimio)

The studio and showroom of Grigoris Triantafyllou and Dimitris Alexakis is the hottest place to find a limited prêtà-porter and the current collection of the unbeatable duo. Kanari 18, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3614155 www.deuxhommes.gr

Ioanna Kourbela (Map M9

Akropoli)

Inspired by nature, Ioanna uses only natural materials combined with elaborate textures. Her creations have a touch of youthful craziness, as if they are constantly in motion. Distributor: (+30) 210 9942731 Adrianou 109 & Hatzimichali 12, Plaka (+30) 210 3224591 • www.ioannakourbela.gr

Old Athens - Vassilis Zoulias

(Map I 12

Syntagma)

Greek-chic clothes and accessories with an old-Athens touch and exceptional materials. Akadimias 30 & Likavitou, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3389924

SPECIAL BUYS Greece is for lovers

Attrm@fottrivtabole designe:

of on nd co Fresh a the key words lothing c e r th a these irts eek you urite Gr colourful t-sh o v fa r e th t of ou . u n o tio . Check r collec e, brands r summe of their epartment Sto gma) Synta Attica D 1 J1 (Map 813 timiou 9 Panepis (+30) 210 2853 eus Ira P , 9 1 s Dio Sotiros lyfada xa 26, G A. Meta attivo.gr r www.att

(Map O7

Akropoli)

A team of young designers who have used humour and irony to take the awkwardness out of traditional Greek souvenirs. Original and (mostly) elegant yet functional objects inspired by ancient Greece. Kariatidon 13A , Makrigianni, Makrigianni

JEWELLERY Bulgari

(Map I 13

Panepistimio)

A “B.zero1” ring or an “Assioma” watch are the must-have items, if you want to invest in Bulgari. Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3225348 • wwww.bulgari.com

Cartier

(Map I13

Panepistimio)

You don’t have to be extra loaded to own a Cartier. This is where you can find the young collection “Entrelaces”, whose ring prices don't cost much, as well as the ultimate “Love” bracelets and rock “Marcello” bags. City Link, Voukourestiou 7, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3313600 • www.cartier.com

Folli Follie

(Map K10

Syntagma)

Affordable luxury in fashion jewelry, watches and accessories. A global brand. Ermou 18, Syntagma (+30) 210 3230729 • www.follifollie.gr

Kessaris (Map I13

Panepistimio)

Diamonds and blues… Those aren’t icebergs, – they’re diamond rings! Salesmen can be quite snobbish, but the quality 112_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_113

is great. You’ll know the owner by his red glasses. Voukourestiou 4, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3711000 www.kessaris.gr

Lalaounis (Map I 13)

Panepistimio

The heart of the internationally recognised jewelry house is located in Kolonaki. As Ilias Lalaounis says, “every jewel has its own history”, whether it begins in Mycenae or in Byzantium. We’ve seen Charlize Theron wearing them. Panepistimiou 6 & Voukourestiou (+30) 210 3624354 • www.lalaounis.com

Lito-Cabinet de Curiosités (Map J15

Panepistimio)

Jewels that tell the stories of journeys. Thailand, Arizona, India and Egypt. A small private museum full of treasures with the Lito Karakostanoglou signature who transforms anything old into a modern rock suggestion. Irodotou 25, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7295177

Marianna Petridi (Map I15

Evangelismos)

Beloved artistic jewelry gallery with a permanent showroom for Greek and foreign designers. Charitos 34, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7217789

Oxette

(Map I13

Minas The ultimate rock designer. Vintage

This su Panepis tim m collecti mer, Oxette p io) on “Cre r ate you esents the feature rm s made fr ethnic handm yth” which ade jew om silv er ell ivory an d enam and 18K plate ery, els. C d silv in pop c olours, asual-chic wa er, tc with lux a urious d nd a Premium hes, line esig www.o n. Shop online xette.g at r Skoufa 37, Kolo naki (+30)21 0 33905 47

all-time classic jewels, the first choice among the trendy young. Emanouil Benaki 8, Kifisia (+30) 210 6233577 www.minastudio.com

Swatch (Map J15

Panepistimio)

Code: colour. The must-have Swiss watch, you can’t stop at one. Patriarchou Ioakim 12, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7239708 • www.swatch.com/gr_el/home.html

Van Cleef & Arples

(Map I13

Panepistimio)

(These) diamonds are a girl’s best friend. City Link, Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3310319 www.vancleef-arpels.com

Fanourakis (Map J15

Evangelismos)

Greek designer Lina Fanouraki’s jewellery is ultimately Greek spirited but does not resemble at all the traditional ancient- like necklaces and wreaths. Using the prime materials of high-end goldsmithery, her work is modern and humorous but always classy. Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7211762

Wanted - More than Jewellery (Map P8

Akropoli)

An unusual jewellery store, with funky Brit rock style, it seems like it popped out of the pages of some comic book. Unique accessories, watches, jewellery and t-shirts from €4 to €500. Very often you will find special offers, events and discounts. Makrigianni 33, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9228464

Kosmima

(Map P8

Akropoli)

Penelope Kallirosi and a select team of Greek designers present handmade jewellery in a space adjacent to the Acropolis Museum. Ingenious combinations with semi-precious stones, silver, gold. Minimal, chic and easy to wear jewellery. Located in a street that bears 114_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

CORALLO CORALLO

the name of one of the architects of the Temple of Zeus. Porinou 2, Plaka (+30) 210 9230274

Corallo Corallo (Map O8

Akropoli)

Right across the Acropolis Museum, this is a space built with love for handmade jewellery, from corals, gold, silver, precious and semiprecious stones. In this space, owned by Andreas Ritsos, you will find works from selected wellknown Greek artists of handmade jewellery. Makrigianni 9, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9222690

Gavello

(Map J14

Panepistimio)

Jewellery to combine chic looks and rock attitude,

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_115

with an extra attention to detail. Skoufa 10, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7244600

SHOES Baton Premiere

Shop Er

(Map I14

Panepistimio)

Be sure to take a look at the work of designer Dukas. His shoes and bags are limited editions, special, and will change your perception. If you’re in the market for a purchase something with a designer signature, why not make it a Greek one? Anagnostopoulou 10, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3601611

mou 11 Α (Ma 2 A uniqu p J6 Monastira e conce ki) signatu p t s tor re and acc and casual clo e offering thing, fo ess otwear kids, a ories for me produc s well as a var n, women and iety of li ts,(desig festyle n objec fragran ts coffee-t ces, organic b and homewa re e a words, ble books and auty products , whatev , er fashio gadgets) – in o have to ther n, art an o Ermou ffer. Open eve d creativity 112A ry day. (+30 www.sh opermo ) 210 3231683 u112a.g r

Camper Shop (Map I14

Panepistimio)

The most comfortable footwear with a healthy dose of humour. One shoe passes you the salt, the next the pepper. You don’t have to say jokes anymore in order to be funny. Anagnostopoulou 23 & Heraklitou, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3629398 Ermou 34 (+30) 210 3216709 www.camper.com

Salvatore Ferragamo SHOP ERMOU 112A

(Map J11

Syntagma)

Ultimate must-have in flat or slightly heeled “Varina” ballerinas in every colour of the rainbow (the only label where you can still find some shoes in six different sizes for every style). City Link, Stadiou 4, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3356437

Tod's

(Map I13

Panepistimio)

Those loafers are haunting us: they’re everywhere – from the feet of grannies to their 12-year-old grandchildren. Voukourestiou 13, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3356425

Sandal Mania (Map O9

Akropoli)

A factory outlet with a great variety of sandals, shoes, bags, all handmade. Great prices. All types and designs, for men, women and children. Comfortable and easily worn sandals, ideal for summer. Vironos 7A, Plaka (+30) 210 3245551

SHOPPING CENTRES Athens Heart Large shopping centre (2 floors, 4 levels): 80 stores offering famous clothes brands as well as cafés and gadgets. Beautiful view of the Acropolis and Lycabettus (especially when the glass roof opens). Pireos 180, Tavros (+30) 210 3414105 www.athensheart.gr Attica

IOANNA KOURBELA

116_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

(Map I13

Panepistimio)

360 shops in shop. Up-market department store, the biggest in the city. A comprehensive selection of designer wear (Armani, Burberry, Just Cavalli, Juicy Couture, Missoni, Joop! etc.), casual brands, accessories, exclusive Joe Malone and Molton Brown distributor. A great view from the 6th floor café, and full beauty treatment on the 4th floor. Panepistimiou 9, Sintagma 211 1802600 www.atticadps.gr

Avenue Massive “family” shopping within 6.500 sqm. Features Greece’s biggest Carrefour supermarket, right next to mega Jumbo (toys and small household decorative objects), the first Greek H&M and 35 more stores (Mark-Aalen, Era Bijoux, Mat Fashion, Sephora, Swatch etc.). Kifisias 41-47, Marousi (+30) 210 6100901 www.avenuemall.gr Golden Hall Luxurious shopping centre with expensive brands, clothes, accessories, jewelry, sportswear, cosmetics, art objects, Doudesis hair salon, Mastic Spa for special beauty treatment and more. Be warned: it gets extremely crowded on a Saturday. Kifisias 37A, Marousi (+30) 210 6803450 www.goldenhall.gr Ikea Famously low prices, combined with a quality, modern, minimal design. Special services: Online catalog with personal design tools, and a playground to leave the children while you browse the shop and plan a Scandinavian facelift for your home. International Athens Airport Eleftherios Venizelos Kifisou 96, Egaleo, www.ikea.gr Notos Galleries

(Map G8

Omonia)

A standard department store primarily selling clothes and satisfying most of the consumption needs of the modern Athenian. Clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, sportswear, toys. Eolou 99 & Lykourgou (+30) 210 3245811 www.notosgalleries.gr

Notos Home

(Map G8

Omonia)

A one-stop shop for young couples setting up house together. Everything you need for the home, in beautiful, colourful, rich collections with a woman’s touch. Kratinou 5, Kotzia Square (+30) 210 3743000 www.notoshome.gr

Public (Map K11 Syntagma) The most beautiful building on Syntagma Square is home to a store offering every new sound, picture, Internet and computer gadgets, as well as music, movies and books. Karageorgi Servias 1, Sintagma sq. (+30) 210 3246210 • www.public.gr The Mall Athens 200 shops within a shop, the Village cinema complex, restaurants and cafés and a super market, all wrapped up in a futuristic design with a roof garden offering an amazing view. Andrea Papandreou 35, Marousi (+30) 210 6300000-003 • www.themallathens.gr Athens Metro Mall

(

Aghios Dimitrios)

A shopping centre with 85 stores that offer leading brands at very competitive prices. Besides the shopping experience a visitor can enjoy lunch or dinner in one of its 18 eateries of all kinds. Athens Metro Mall, Vouliagmenis 276, Aghios Dimitrios (+30) 210 9769444 • www.athensmetromall.gr

Hondos Center With 85 stores around Greece, Hondos Center can provide you with everything you need, for your season shopping or just for a tiny elegant gift. Or go straight to the roof garden, for some tasty CITY GUIDE summer 2012_117

INTERNATIONAL BOOKSTORES Anavasi This specialised travel bookshop is at the forefront of developments in Greek cartography since the publication of its first map in 1997. It is notable for its rich collection of maps and guides. Stoa Arsakiou 6A, Panepistimio (Map G10 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3218104 Best Book Hunters New and used books in many different languages. Literature, science and fine arts in low prices. Housed in a neoclassical building which is adorned with a very original graffiti. Zoodohou Pigis 41A, Exarchia (Map E12 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3603473 Deutsche Buchhandlung For German-speaking book lovers. Plenty of board and other games for kids. Omirou 4 & Stadiou 10, Gallery Lemos (Map I10 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3225294 Eleftheroudakis One of the best known Athenian bookstores. It boasts a large English section with paperbacks and hardcovers of both classic and contemporary literature. Panepistimiou 11, Syntagma (Map J11 Syntagma) (+30) 210 3258440 Fashion Bookstore An interesting little bookshop selling exclusively fashion magazines from around the world. Thisseos 6, Syntagma (Map J9 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3223949 Ianos Οne of the most successful large bookstores for book and art lovers. Keep you eyes open for the cultural events that are frequently held at the bookstore’s coffee shop. Stadiou 24, Panepistimio (Map I10 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3217917 INTERNATIOnal press A meeting point for those interested in newspapers and magazines from around the globe. By far the largest store with international press in Athens. Panepistimiou 73, Omonia (Map F9 Omonia) (+30) 210 3210989 Le Livre Ouvert Located very close to the French Institute in Kolonaki, it boasts a large French and international section. Solonos 77, Kolonaki (Map G11 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3629703 Librairie Kauffmann An old, historical bookstore, this is the go-to place for French literature. Stadiou 28, Panepistimio (Map I10 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3255321 Papasotiriou Number one destination for booklovers of for-

KOSMIMA

traditional Greek Cuisine, and the most beautiful view. www.hondoscenter.com Note Be sure not to miss the every day Special Offers (excluding Sales Season). Services ATM, Wi-Fi, Free Gift Wrapping, Tax Free Service, Direct Public Transport Access.

Shopping Spree at McArthurGlen The McArthurGlen Designer Outlet is the first of its kind in Athens. A mega store filled with popular brand names in clothing, shoes, accessories and household goods with 35 to 70% discount. More information on www.mcarthurglenathens.gr/en/whats-new

Factory Outlet Stores Discount prizes on brands like Dior and Paco Rabanne. There are two stores, one located near the El. Venizelos airport, approachable from all means leading to the airport, and one located at Faliro . To get there, take the Electric Railway (ISAP) to the Peace and Friendship stadium. It’s a 10-15 min walk.

BEAUTY-CARE COSMETICS Apivita

(Map H 12

Panepistimio)

eign and domestic literature. Updated travel guides for destinations in Greece as well as paperbacks for the holidays. Panepistimiou 37, Korai sq. (Map H10 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3253232 Stournari 35 & George, Exarchia (Map D10 Omonia) (+30) 210 3809821 Newsstand Papasotiriou at Athens International Airport

Greek natural cosmetics brand that has gone global. You can find natural products on the ground floor, place your personal cosmetic orders on the first floor, or head to the basement for facial and body treatment. Ask for the head massage – it’ll make you forget everything! Solonos 26, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3640560

Public A large department store on Syntagma square. Huge section of foreign books, maps as well as travel guides and accessories for your mobile phone and camera. On the top floor of this impressive building there is a coffee shop overlooking the square. Karagiorgi Servias 1, Syntagma (Map K10 Syntagma) (+30) 210 3246210 Grigoriou Lambraki 152-154, Piraeus (+30) 210 4126400

Korres This Greek brand has conquered the world. It makes products from pure herbs, combined with traditional pharmaceutical plants to provide a safe and pleasantly medicinal feeling. Available in pharmacies

Travel Bookstore This excellent travel bookshop belongs to the top Greek cartography company ORAMA Editions, which is our map supplier. A visit here is essential before any excursion to the countryside. Huge variety of top quality maps and travel guides covering every last corner of the country, as well as international maps and travel guides series. If you mention you’re a reader of this guide, the bookshop’s experienced staff will happily give you an extra discount. Solonos 71, Kolonaki (Map G12 Panepistimio) (+30) 210 3616943 23rd km of Marathonos Av., Rafina (+30) 22940 32670 118_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Mastiha Shop

(Map I 13

Panepistimio)

Mastic is a unique natural product that can be found only on the Greek island Chios. The brand’s collaboration with Korres has developed exceptional products such as the mastic conditioner with mastic oil and provitamins. Panepistimiou 6 & Kriezotou (+30) 210 3632750

Sephora

(Map K10

Syntagma)

All the latest fragrances, plus all the alternative collections that set global trends: Murad, make up for

Korres offers a great variety of scrubs and masks

BOHO

for cleansing, hydration and brightness

ever, Sephora Products, Priorities, Strivectin, ΟΡΙ. Ermou 24, Syntagma (+30) 210 3313167 Milioni 2, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3612666 The Mall Athens, Marousi (+30) 210 6300125

HAIR SALONS

Georgios Doudessis (Map I13

Vangelis Hatzis The most luxurious service. Slightly specialised in natural-looking blonde colours. But don’t even think of turning up without an appointment. Kifisias 196, Psichiko (+30) 210 6747011

D. Frank

(Map I14

a classical hair salon offers, as well as lots of surprises. Fragkiskos is still the top Scissorhands. Sina 50 & Anagnostopoulou, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3603297

Evangelismos)

Hair cuts, coiffures, flashes, colours, everything

Evangelismos)

Georgios Doudesis’ s professionalism and modern aesthetics changed the world view of Athenian hair salons forever. Every now and then he collaborates with eponymous magazines and does the hair styling for movies, theatres and TV series. Voukourestiou 39, Kolonaki • www. doudesis.com

Skoufa 62 Hair Salon

(Map I13

Evangelismos)

This friendly experienced team will not only refresh

TEZENIS

CALZEDONIA

your look but your mood, as well. Plus manicure and pedicure treatment. Skoufa 62A, Kolonaki (+30) 210 3392346

NAILS - WAX Dollhouse

(Map J15

Evangelismos)

Ideal stop to get a manicure, pedicure, artificial nails, waxing, spa or even a massage. The best French manicure in a sparklingly clean environment. Patriarchou Ioakim 24, Kolonaki (+30) 210 7296150

Teta SANDAL MANIA

Big waiting list and famous customers. French manicure, pedicure, relaxing massage, facial cleansing, make up, healing massage. There’s also a hair salon. Ethnikis Antistaseos 84, Chalandri (+30) 210 6722053-072

DECORATION Yi.a.li.

YI.A.LI.

(Map P8

Akropoli)

Yi.a.li. imposes a singular designing line of household and decorative objects, inspired by traditional and contemporary elements. These creations, made of natural materials (glass, wood, metal), with numerous colour combinations and attractive shapes, will satisfy your senses. Makrigianni 5-7, Makrigianni (+30) 210 9216344

UNDERWEAR Tezenis

(Map i8

Panepistimio)

Tezenis stores are cosmopolitan, with youthful, constantly evolving collections, enhanced every week by new items, dedicated to women, men and children. Stadiou 28 (+30) 210 3225469

Calzedonia (Map K8

Syntagma)

Items for women and funny and “serious” socks for kids and men. Ermou 60, Syntagma (+30) 210 3222008

Intimissimi (Map K10 WANTED 120_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Syntagma)

Underwear for all bodies and budgets. Ermou 17, Syntagma (+30) 210 3229389

FAMILY FUN Keep the little ones happy and busy

Planetarium

Discover Athens with your kids. There are plenty of activities to keep the little ones happy and busy. Adrenaline adventure and amusement parks, educational visits in museums and green parks for all ages. Make sure to dedicate a day trip for the top family experience: the Attica Zoological Park. It is a journey to the five continents. By MARINA MARKANTONI

The Goulandris Museum Of Natural History

look at Earth’s most spectacular and revealing secrets of survival. A museum that offers an extensive collection of zoological, botanical, entomological, geological and palaeontological exhibits with many interactive displays and audiovisual performances. Its ultra-modern facility, the Gaea Centre, showcases the natural sciences and the evolution of the planets. Its highlight is the Geosphere, a unique hemispherical dome-monitor of 5 m of diametre and approximately 40 sqm of surface. It shows the rotating planet in 225,000 high resolution images. The exhibition is conceived and implemented in cooperation with the London Museum of Natural History. Levidou 13, Kifisia (+30) 210 8015870 Mon-Sat 09:00-14:30 Sun 10:00-14:30

€ Admission fee: €6 Concessions: €4 & €10 (combining both museums) €6

Copa Copana

he coolest spot in Athens during the summer. Chill out at an amusement park just 15 minutes off the hectic city centre. A unique water theme park that features waterslide rides of every kind, swimming pools for all ages, impressive waterfalls and the Magic Town, Greece’s biggest children’s playground, complete with a pirate ship. Parents can cool off from the heat with refreshing cocktails while sunbathing. The deckchairs by the pool are free of charge and DJs play live later in the evening. Athens-Korinthos Motorway, 12th km, Chaidari (+30) 210 5576006 Mon-Sun 10:00-19:30 (pools),

10:00-18:30 (waterslides) € Admission fee: €15 Concessions: €12 Access: Bus No A16, B16, Γ16, from Koumoundourou sq. , Bus No 866 from Aigaleo metro station Bus stop: Afea-Chaidari www.copacopanapark.com

Planetarium Eugenides Foundation

state of the art planetarium. Astronomy lessons for kids and parents. Built in 2003, Athens’s Planetarium is one of the largest and most advanced worldwide. Large format films and planetarium shows are projected on the 25-metre diametres dome. Its latest digital production on show “The Mystery of Life” is the gripping story of one of the most valid scientific theories of all time: The Theory of Evolution. Sygrou 387 (+30) 210 9469641 Wed-Fri 17:30-20:30 / Sat-Sun 10:30-20:30 € Admission fee: €4-€6 Concessions: €3-€5 Access: Bus No 126, A2, B2, from Akadimias & Omirou www.evgenidesfound.edu.gr CITY GUIDE summer 2012_121

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Attica Zoological Park

ake a walk on the wild side. More than two hundred bird species; a reptiles’ section and representatives of the best the Greek fauna has to offer: wolves, bears and foxes. Attica Zoological Park opened initially as a Bird Park but now it hosts species from all continents: giraffes, zebras, antelopes and some rarities as snow leopards and white lions. Tip: Visit the meerkats. They are sociable and love to be photographed. Don’t forget to check the Zoo’s website for the summer weekly educational programmes and choose from subjects like the African Savannah, Greek Wild Life and other. Yalou, Spata (+30) 210 6634726 Mon-Sun 09:00-untill sunset Admission fee: €15 Concessions: €11 Family pass: €48 for 2 parents + 2 children (3-12 years old) & €58 for 2 parents + 3 children (3-12 years old) Free admission: up to 3 years old Access: Bus No 319, 305 from Nomismatokopio or Doukissis Plakendias & local Bus No 320 Bus Stop: Spata City Hall www.atticapark.com/zoo

Hellenic Children’s Museum

earning can be fun! So parents and teachers say. But in this historic three-storey neoclassical building of Athens they actually mean it. A vast number of multi-thematic exhibits combining fun with learning aim to feed your children’s imagination. It is the country’s only multi-thematic, interactive museum specially designed for children. You will come across the 122_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Hellenic Children’s Museum while wandering through the picturesque streets and alleys of Plaka. Kidathinaion 14, Plaka (+30) 210 3312995 Tue-Fri 10:00-14:00/ Sat 10:00-15:00 Free admission www.hcm.gr

Allou! Fun Park

he largest amusement park in Greece covering 40,000 sqm. The youngest ones love the fairytale land of Kidom with its most enchanting carousels and surprises. Things get tough for 12 to 99 year old kids at the Adrenaline Zone, the Shock Tower (a screamincluding 40-metre fall experience) or at the House of Fear where terror resides permanently. Enjoy! Kifisou & Petrou Ralli, Rentis (+30) 210 4256990 Mon-Thu 17:00-24:00 Fri 17:00-01:00/ Sat 10:00-01:00/ Sun 10:00-01:00 Kidom Mon-Fri 17:00-23:00 Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 € Admission fee: Allou! Day Pass €15/ Allou! Food + Fun Pass €19 / Kidom Family Pass: two children family €25, three children family €35, four children family €45 Access: Bus No B18 & trolley bus No 2, from Omonia www.allou.gr

Hellenic Cosmos Cultural Centre

he worlds of history, technology and science under one roof that used to be an industrial complex. Hellenic Cosmos is a state of the art cultural

centre for those looking for a highly educational experience. It hosts interactive exhibitions, educational programmes, conferences, theatrical performances, art events and a wide range of activities for all ages and interests. It is also home to Tholos, a dome-shaped theatre where you can currently take virtual tours of the Ancient Athenian Agora. Educational fun for everyone. Pireos 254 (+30) 212 2540000 Mon-Fri 09:00-16:00 Sun 10:00-15:00/ Closed Sat € Admission fee: €6 Access: Bus No 049, from Omonia Bus stop: Ifantiria www.hellenic-cosmos.gr

Ta Aidonakia

ne of the oldest and most respected luna parks in Athens. Since 1981, it has become a cornerstone of children's entertainment. In a multiplex of 5,000 sqm which can host up to 3,000 people, children and grown-ups alike can have the ride of their life. There are many different Aidonakia branches, including two in The Mall Athens and one in Escape Center Ilion. Kifisia 89 & Dionissou 155, Marousi (+30) 210 6198274, 210 6196141 Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00 Sat-Sun10:00-24:00 € Admission fee: (Kifisias 89) €15 (bracelet), €2,5 (chips) Access: Buses No 550, A7, A8, X14 (Chimara stop), X93 (Kifisias stop) www.aidonakia.gr

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DAY S TRIP

AEGINA

The closest escape from the Attica mainland

ess than an hour away from the port of Pireaus, Aegina is an attractive destination that retains a laidback atmosphere, grand old buildings, beautiful sandy beaches and its world famous pistachio orchards. It’s an island steeped in history and home of the Doric Temple of Aphaea – one of Greece’s best preserved and temples.

Aegina Town Neoclassical architecture, dozens of pistachio nuts stalls and countless little tavernas are some of the the characteristics of the busy port of Aegina, which is also the island’s capital. Most of its visitors are Greek weekenders, but that just adds to its charm. You will see local fishermen chatting as they mend their nets on the waterfront, and if you’re in the

market for some fresh fish, there are plenty of Kaikia (fishing boats) selling their catch on the spot.

lived during the 1940s and 50s, when he wrote his world acclaimed novel “Zorba the Greek”.

Markelos Tower is a picturesque miniature tower which was the seat of the first Greek government after independence. Unfortunately you can’t visit the interior of the tower. Nearby is the island’s open air cinema – well worth a visit.

Temple of Aphaia (Tue-Sun 08:0019:15) Dating back to between 500 and 480 BC, the Doric temple stands on the pine-covered Mesagros hill 12km east of the capital. The view from the temple is simply stunning! On a clear day, you can see Athens, Cape Sounio and even the Peloponnese. During the initial excavations it was believed that the Temple was dedicated to Zeus or Athena. In 1901, however, after more extensive research, it was revealed that the temple was dedicated to Aphaia, a local goddess. The focal point of the sanctuary is the Temple ofAphaia and the altar opposite its east façade.Just beyond the entrance of the Propylaeum a tall column was crowned by a sphinx, which can now

Ancient Aegina lies north of the town on a promontory known as Kolona (column), taking its name from the single ancient column that stands there. The remains surround the Temple ofApollo and the site also features a small archaeological museum that houses finds from the excavation. Continuing north out of town, you will come across the house where the Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis

Photo:VANGELIS KORONAKIS

By Lena Chourmouzi

INFO How to get there Departure harbour is Piraeus, which is divided into various gates according to your destination. The ferries and hydrofoils to the Saronic islands (Aegina, Agistri, Methana, Poros, Hydra & Spetses) depart from Gate E8 which is located at the east side of the harbour. There are large signs throughout the harbour area, so you can’t miss it. Ferries line up at one end of the quay, with hydrofoils and other high-speed vessels at the other end. There are connections from Pireaus to Aegina Town, as well as the island’s other ports, Agia Marina and Souvala.

By Ferry

been seen at the Aegina Museum. This temple was destroyed by fire around 510 BC. The late archaic temple we see today was erected on the ruins of this older temple in the late 6th century or early 5th century BC. Excavations of the Temple of Aphaia began in 1811, and were continued by German archaeologists in 1901.

Agios Nektarios A modern convent with a church that is said to be the largest in Greece. The popular Bishop Nektarios, who locals believe perfomed many miracles during his lifetime, lived in the monastery that was built around 1904-1910. He died in 1920 and was canonized by the Greek Orthodox Church in 1961. Women who have difficulty getting pregnant visit the convent as a night spent there is believed by the faithful to make it easier to conceive a baby.

Where to swim The island’s beaches can all be reached by bus. The bus station is at Ethnegersias sq., very close to the dock. Aeginitissa beach is currently Aegina’s “hottest” beach. It is a beautiful beach covered with huge eucalyptus trees and is also a famous place for viewing the sunset. Perdika is ideal for swimmers who like to dive from rocks rather than laying on sandy beaches. The bay is packed with yachts. Marathonas is the biggest and possibly the best. Plenty of cafes and tavernas on the seafront. Moni islet. Τhere are no facilities, but the crystal clear waters are more than inviting. Souvala is Aegina’s second main port and somehow an Athenian resort. Close by are a number of fine sandy beaches like Vagia and Aggi.

If you’re Aegina-bound, you can take the Hellenic Seaways Ferries (blue, white & red), Nova Ferries (red) or the Agios Nektarios Ferry (light yellow). Ticket prices cost €9.5 one-way. Timetables can be found at the ticket offices on the quay and the departure time is displayed at the vessel’s entrance door. You should purchase your ticket at the ticket offices, but if you’re running late they will let you buy your ticket onboard.

By Flying Dolphin There are two Hydrofoil companies: Hellenic Seaways (blue, white & red) and Aegean Flying Dolphins (blue & yellow). They are more expensive than the ferry boats – a single ticket to Aegina with the Aegean Flying Dolphin costs €13, and Hellenic Seaways charge €15. Timetables can be found at the quay-side ticket offices as well as on the Internet. Tickets must be purchased at the ticket offices – you cannot buy one onboard. The first flying dolphin of the day departs at 07:00.

DAY S TRIP

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Hydra

An island made of stone By LENA CHOURMOUZI

Photo:VANGELIS KORONAKIS

ydra is a rock which rises out of the sea like a huge loaf petrified bread... The very rocks, and nowhere on earth has God been so lavish with them as in Greece, are symbols of life eternal. In Greece the rocks are eloquent: men may go dead but the rocks never. At a place like Hydra, for example, one knows that when a man dies he becomes part of his native rock. [Excerpt from “The Colossus of Maroussi”, the impressionist travelogue of Henry Miller] Rocky Hydra is one of the most picturesque of the Saronic islands. It is separated from the Peloponnese by a narrow strip of water. When you sail into the crescent shaped harbour the town of Hydra unfolds before

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your eyes with its neo-classical greystone mansions, its narrow cobbled lanes and the surprising spectacle of the aligned donkeys waiting for someone to hire them. Hydra is by far one of the most tranquil islands in Greece since it is completely carfree. The donkey is the basic means of transportation. Hydra has a population of 3,000 but it gets crammed with Athenians, especially during weekends and national holidays. You’ll enjoy it more if you visit on a weekday or out of season. All the mansions of Hydra are stone made and usually three or four stories tall. They were designed by Venetian and Genoese architects and are still very well preserved. The waterfront is a playground of cafés, pricey restau-

rants and quaint tavernas. At night, pay a visit to the legendary “Pirate Bar” for rock and 80s nostalgia. For breathtaking sea views follow the pebbly path leading to the fishing village of Kamini. There you can still feel the aura of Leonard Cohen – one of the most famous former residents of Hydra. If you dream of sandy beaches, Hydra isn’t your island. It has many beaches with rocks or pebbles.

INFO

How to get there By Ferries and Flying Dolphins departing from Piraeus several different hours during the day. To buy the tickets and embark on your voyage look for Gate 8.

Photo:VANGELIS KORONAKIS

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DAY S TRIP

Explore Argolis

The greatest concentration of ancient sites in Greece By Lena Chourmouzi

The Lion Gate in Mycenae

ithin less than a two-hour drive from Athens the Argolis peninsula runs south of the Corinth Canal in a scenic sweep of mountains, valleys and coastal resorts. Attractions such as Agamemnon’s fortress at Mycenae, the great theatre of Epidaurus and the elegant city of Nafplio draw big crowds of tourists all year round.

Neolithic Mycenae Founded between two high hills, on a plateau dominating the Argive plain and controlling both the land and sea routes Mycenae was the kingdom of mythical Agamemnon. This region is one of the longest occupied in Greece with evidence of Neolithic settlements. It reached its heyday during the Bronze Age. The myths related to its history have inspired poets and writers over many centuries, from the “Homeric epics” and the great tragedies of the Classical period to contemporary liter128_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

ary and artistic creation. The site was uncovered in 1874 by the German archaeologist Heinirich Schliemann who also excavated the site of Troy. The citadel of Mycenae is entered through the famous Lion Gate, which takes you to the interior of the acropolis. A steep path leads your climb through several ancient buildings and pathways, towards the palace where Agamemnon was murdered by his wife Clytemnestra and her lover after he returned victorious from the Trojan War. The famous tholos tomb known as the “Treasure of Atreus”, with its gigantic lintels and tall beehive vault fills the visitor with awe. Once there be prepared for a steep climb through the ruins and the relentless sun rays that are impossible to avoid since there is hardly any shade. The modern village of Mykines is located 2 km from the main Korinthos-Argos highway. There are quite a few cafés and canteens for a snack or refreshments.

Centre Stage at Epidaurus Thousands of theatre lovers flock the stunning ancient theatre of Epidaurus every summer during the annual Festival. Built around 330-320 BC the 14,000 seat theatre still amazes with its extraordinary acoustics. It merges perfectly with the surrounding landscape and it was unearthed in the 19th century. The shrine to Asklepius, god of medicine and healing, often overshadows the theater’s magnificence. It was built during the 6th century BC. Near the theatre is a small museum with finds from the sanctuary. Do not forget: high heels are not allowed at the theatre. Palea Epidaurus is the closest beach resort. There are a number of hotels and rooms as well as campsites on the beach. On a theatre night the tavernas are packed. On the other hand if you like dining among actors and celebrities you should try the “Leonidas Taverna”, at Lygourio.

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INFO

How to get there

By car

The trip from Athens takes about 2 hours (147 km)

By Coach

View of Nafplio from Palamidi fortress

Nafplio, the first capital Modern architecture hasn’t spoiled the old town of Nafplio, which is a feast for the eye. It was the first capital of the Greek State in the early 1830s. Here the first president of Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was assassinated. It was also the first residential place for the young Bavarian Prince Otto, first king of the country. The Old Town is lovely, with old mansions and paved paths. The whole town has a Neoclassical vibe that attracts even the most demanding visitors. The town’s twin fortresses of Palamidi and Akronafplia were key military flashpoints during the War of Independence. The Venetian influence is felt everywhere. If you feel energetic try to approach the Palamidi fortress on foot. It’s a very steep climb of alegedly 999 ( but in reality 857) stone hewn steps. The view on top is rewarding.

The Αrchaeological and Folklore museums are quite interesting but not as unique as the Komboloi (worry-beads) Museum (Staikopoulou 25). Its unique collection consists of approximately 1,500 kombolois that date from 1700 to 1950 and are made of various precious and rare materials. Syntagmatos sq. is the main square of the old town. It is very spacious and picturesque with quite a few cafés that serve local delicacies.

Where to swim Karathonas, the closest proper beach to Nafplio. There are some organised rock climbing routes between Nafplio and Karathonas. Tolo and Kastraki. Southeast of Nafplio, these resorts are popular with package – holidaymakers, thus it provides all the amenities needed for a pleasant and comfortable stay.

The coaches of KTEL depart Athens from Terminal A in Kifissos central bus station AT HI N A- F I C HT I ( M I KI N ES ) AR G O S - N AF PL I O Monday till Friday 06:15-21:30 Saturday 07:30-21:00 Sunday and Holidays 07:30-22:30 AT H I N A E P I DAV RO S KRANIDI Monday till Friday 09:00-11:30 via Nafplio-16:20 Saturday 09:00-11:30 via Nafplio-16:20 Sunday and Holidays 09:00-11:30 via Nafplio-17:20 KT E L AR G O L I DAS (+30) 27520 27323-27423 www.ktel-argolidas.gr Nafplio Bus Station (+30) 27520 27323 Nafplio Tourist Office (+30) 27520 24444 Nafplio Port (+30) 27520 22974 Nafplio Hospital (+30) 27520 2730

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DAY S TRIP

DELFI

INFO

One of the most important archaeological sites in Greece By Vangelis koronakis

History

In Greek mythology Delphi was the place where two eagles released by Zeus to fly across the universe met and determined the Navel of the World. A major temple dedicated to Apollo and his victory over the terrible serpent Python was built there in 7th century BC. The local oracle was a religious centre where pilgrims, commoners and kings alike, from all over Greece came to consult Pythia on important or everyday matters, like whether to go to war with a rival city, or about family and personal affairs. Pythia, the priestess of the sanctuary, mumbled her notoriously ambiguous oracles in a state of intoxication and the other priests translated them in a way that could accommodate opposite interpretations. One of the most famous oracles was given to Croesus when he asked if he should go to war with the Persians. The answer was “if you go to war you will destroy a great empire”. The oracle turn out to be right, except it was his own empire that he destroyed.

Archaeological site These days Delphi is a small touristy village 180 130_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

km from Athens, built on the top of a cliff, next to the main archaeological site on the slopes of Mount Parnassos. There is an impressive 2,300 sqm museum (first built in 1903 – last renovated in 1999) housing findings from the local excavations that started by German archaeologists in 1892. The main highlights of the museum are offerings by the oracle visitors to express their gratitude, the famous Charioteer of Delphi and of course “Omfalos”, the sculptured religious stone that represented the Navel of the World. The archaeological site consists of the Temple of Apollo – the centre of the oracle and the seat of Pythia (built in the 4th century BC on the site of the original temple), as well as various treasuries built by Greek cities to host their gifts to Apollo. There is also a stadium up on the hill, an ancient theatre that can seat 5,000 with a wonderful view of the valley and Delphi’s best known landmark (and a favourite for photographers), the “Tholos”, a circular building with three of its original twenty Doric columns restored, part of the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia.

How to get there The best way to get to Delphi is by car. Take the national motorway to Lamia and at the Kastro junction (110 km) turn left to Orchomenos and Levadia and follow the road signs to Delphi. In the village you will find numerous cafes and restaurants catering to the hundreds of day visitors. After you’re done with Delphi head for Amfissa, a tranquil little town with a small archaeological museum, or Itea, a lovely seaside village where you can enjoy fresh fish and seafood in one of its many tavernas by the sea. If you have time on your way back stop at nearby Arachova, a base for the skiers visiting Parnassos slopes but busy in the summer too. The picturesque town is riddled with flashy clothes shops, trendy bars, tavernas and during weekends, traffic similar to that of the centre of Athens. If you’re not up for driving, there is a regular intercity bus service from Athens KTEL station. Finally you can opt for an organised tour. KTEL (Intercity) Bus station Liosion 260 (+30) 210 8317096 From Athens 07:30, 10:30, 13:00, 15:30, 17:30, 20:00 € Tickets cost €15.10 one way Museum and Arch. site: (+30) 22650 82346, 22650 82313 Both open: daily 08:00-20:00 Museum: Sun-Mon-Tue: 08:30-15:00/ Closed on public holidays € Tickets for the museum and the archaeological site cost €6 each (reduced €3)/ A combined ticket will get you into both for €9 (reduced €5)

Chalkida

The town of the restless waters By DIMITRA GROUS

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halkida is the main entry and exit point to and from the island of Evia. The town has a beautiful geographical position, surrounded by the sea, built on a channel (Evripos Strait) where the direction of the flow changes every six hours. Many legends about the unique tidal phenomenon in this channel triggered the imagination and the curiosity of humans since the prehistoric times, searching for mythological, astronomical, physical and philosophical explanations. The place where the old bridge is built is the narrowest point of the channel and the water current can reach the speed of 15 km (9 miles) per hour!

Things to do The costal pathway of Chalkida is a favorite stroll for young people. Α nice walk is through the

Town Hall, further to the so-called Red House and the House of the Statues. There are some interesting sights like the old Venetian castle, which was built after 1204 and was named «Forte del Negreponte». Nowadays is called The Karabala castle. Other places of interest is the Archeological and Folklore museum, the medieval church of Agia Paraskevi.

Where to eat There are several fish or meat tavernas on both sides of Evripos straits where you can enjoy a good meal with nice sea view. A picturesque scenery you ’ll find on Ag. Minas beach, a 4-5 km drive on the mainland side. Another hotspot for dining and swimming is Alykes, one of the most beautiful sandy beaches of the area with several beach bars where you can have drinks and enjoy the sunset.

INFO How to get there The easiest way to visit Chalkida is by car. Drive north the AthensLamia motorway and at the 60th km turn right. Chalkida is 15 km away from there. There are also busses from Athens every 30 min from 06:00 to 21:00 costing about €6.5, and the trip lasts 1.15h. There are trains every 1h from Athens from 05:00 until 23:00. The ticket costs €5.5 and the trip lasts 1.30h. Trains depart from Larissa Station.

Cape Sounion

Where the sun sets through the Doric columns of Poseidon By Lena Chourmouzi

INFO How to get there

By Coach, from Mavromateon KTEL Terminal, near Pedion Areos Park. Buses leave approximately every hour and the trip takes around an hour and a half. (+30) 210 8230179

Right on the southern tip of Attica, Cape Sounion is an ideal half-day trip that combines a magical view of the Aegean with the imposing Temple of Poseidon standing approximately 70 km from the sacred hill of the Acropolis. It was built in the time of Pericles as a major sanctuary to the god of the sea. Its Doric columns stand out from miles away and scores of tourists gather daily to admire the sunset over the Aegean. According to legend, Cape Sounion is the spot where king of Athens Aegeus leapt to his death off the cliff, thus giving his name to the Aegean Sea. The place owes part of its fame to Lord Byron. The poet visited the site in 1810 and carved his name on one of the marble columns. He later praised the place in verse.There is a café by the archaeological site, pleasantly shaded with excellent views. Anywhere along the coastal road to Sounion you can find yourself a spot for swimming.

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Take the tram to the med

Waving the Blue Flag on the sandy beaches of Attica

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

By PANAGIOTIS MENEGOS

hen it comes to beach quality and safety, 387 Greek beaches and 9 marinas are deemed worthy of the coveted Blue Flag (2nd in European ranking). That’s why Greece ranks top in Europe, beach-wise. It is convenient that you don’t have to go to an island to find them. While the wider Athens area may not offer an equal amount of swimming pleasure in comparison to the Aegean Sea, it is true that it has dozens of nice beaches of every kind. Organised, isolated, lively and party-friendly, secret and quiet if you please. Thirteen of them, located in Attica, have met the criteria to fly the Flag. Athenians tend to downplay them, but don’t take their word too seriously. It is the result of their urge to take the first boat to the islands.

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You can visit Attica beaches by way of the excellent public transport. We suggest tram. It might be slow, but it offers you a great chance to have a general view of the much talked about Athens coastline. Bear in mind two negatives: it won’t be easy to find a parking slot if you go by car and that's why we suggest the tram. Secondly, many of the beaches within easy reach of Athens charge an admission fee (with or without extra charge for the use of deckchairs, showers and watersports facilities). The most basic ones charge €3-6, while at the most cosmopolitan resorts, expect to pay more than €10/person during weekends. However, there are plenty of free places. We have picked some of the best seaside retreats in Attica within easy reach from the city centre.

HEAD SOUTH Alimos

ust 8 km from Syntagma sq. It attracts everybody: senior citizens, families and young crowds who can't afford higher admission fees. There is a playground and a waterslide for children while the nearby marina features amenities such as restaurants and bars, banks, pharmacy – even a hair salon. Check out also “Eden beach” where you can spot Athens’ beach racket players at their best, wearing speedos and performing spectacular moves.

Helliniko

he locals have campaigned hard to secure the public status of the beach. So get prepared to “fight” over the few free-of-charge umbrellas and deckchairs. A canteen is always stationed outside the resort selling food and beverages.

Asteria Beach, Glyfada

his is a summer hotspot almost 20 km from the city centre. There is a beach bar, restaurants, a beach volley court and a sea park, ideal scenery for summer socialising and meeting new people. That’s the reason it is very popular among youngsters and every summer weekend it resembles a 24hour mega club.

Glyfada Free Beaches

he first shopping malls of Athens were developed here and a large American community used to live and work at the nearby military basis before it closed down.The marinas on the coast are a centre for sailing holidays and yacht charters. Posh cafe-bars cater to affluent citizens, from ship owners to footballers’ wives and there are four free beaches where you can lay your beach towel. To help you make it through the day, the nearby periptera (kiosks) sell a wide range of goods at reasonable prices.

Voula A&B

ight after Glyfada there are long stretches of sandy beach. They are equipped with various facilities; bars, restaurants, changing rooms, lifeguards, beach volley and football courts as well as 'extreme' fun waterslides. Voula suburb is a quieter version of Glyfada.

Kavouri

long sandy beach and an islet within swimming distance. Really shallow water, mixed crowds and popular for night swimming because it’s not too far and can fulfill spontaneous decisions. There is also the nearby Mikro Kavouri, two picturesque sandy gulfs ideal for more private moments. Coffee bars and restaurants supply beach bums with iced frappe and crunchy kalamarakia (squid).

Vouliagmeni Beach

ell organised 'full house' beach offering watersports facilities, individual cabins and a restaurant. A regular “catwalk” for revealing bikini wearers, a playground for athletic spirits and last but not least one of the few Attica beaches with disabled access facilities.

Vouliagmeni Lake

ive into the therapeutic waters of the so-called “Sunken Lake” a once large cavern that collapsed CITY GUIDE summer 2012_133

ing Swimm le p to ss in Greaelmcoest goesoticed unn

NUDE IN ATTICA LIMANAKIA VOULIAGMENIS

The third cove is mainly favoured by nudists. Bring water and snacks with you.

 LEGRENA

There are two beaches. Nudists prefer the first one. Along the Athens-Sounio coastal road, there are dozens of small coves ideal for all swimming preferences. But be warned – if you want to go nude in Greece, don’t expect to find the amenities of an organised beach.

 RAMNOUNTA

65 km from Athens, isolated and not organised. Head east to Gramatiko and just before the local village turn right following the sign “Limnonas”. Don’t be afraid. Go ahead and when you see “Sesi” sign turn right to the steep downhill. Feel free to park here. Then you’ll know what to do.

after an earthquake. All year round, the temperature of the lake is a steady 24°C. A spa that attracts large crowds of elderly locals whose colorful floral swim caps can be seen bobbing about in the water (limnivouliagmenis.gr)

Vouliagmeni Limanakia

wim for free but forget the comforts of a velvet beach. Small coves and flat rocks form the so-called Limanakia, giving the opportunity to show off diving skills and swim in truly crystal clear waters. Some useful notes: no shallow waters, no families and gay and nudist friendly. And be careful in the narrow turns of road. Greek drivers can get really dangerous while showing off their questionable skills.

Asteras Vouliagmenis

he ultimate taste of cosmopolitan life in Athens by the sea. A magnet for rich and famous with fat wallets that can afford its luxurious facilities (famous restaurants, fashion boutiques etc.). Here what you pay is what you see.

Yabanaki

his is a beach park located at Varkiza (Greek version of Miami). A beach fun park is the right expression due to the range of water sports facilities –water skiing, windsurf, tubes and banana rides, wake board etc. Of course there are bars, restaurants and equipmentshops.“Yabanaki”maysoundJapanese,butit’sGreek for “let’s go for a swim”. In case you wonder…

Grand Resort Lagonissi

rand indeed. A unique beachfront accompanied by one of the most luxurious resorts in Greece. Sandy

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beach coves nestle in the verdant Lagonissi peninsula. You don’t have to be a resident to enjoy the beach or the pool in the sea (yes, there is one). So go for it and spoil yourself, combining it with a meal or a coffee/cocktail.

HEAD WEST

water

sports

Porto Germeno

0 km away from the city centre, it’s a spacious and picturesque beach located between the mountains Pateras and Kitheron by the Gulf of Corinth. You can enjoy a beautiful ride getting there and complement your swim with a typical Greek taverna meal. We suggest fish.

Psatha

ne and a half hour drive from Athens you will enjoy 2,5km beach under the dense shade of pine trees. Families and young couples are the most frequent visitors of this friendly beach. There are fish taverns literally on the seashore.

Alepochori

lmost adjacent to Psatha beach but with more amenities and bigger crowds. There’s a beach volley court, cafés and tavernas. If you can’t stand the heat, visit in the evening to see its magnificent sunset as the sun disappears behind the Alkyonides – a group of islets.

Pachi

ell protected from northern winds, this bay is situated right in front of the Pachi village. Lots of tavernas serving delicious sea meze plates for ouzo and coffee bars make the place rather popular.

HEAD EAST Mavro Lithari, Anavyssos

lmost 40 km from the centre of Athens this is a popular beach, suitable for sunbathing and socialising. It provides opportunities for jet ski and crowd watching but if you want a proper swim you should head to the neighbouring little bay of Agios Nikolaos.

Thymari

ook for the sign “Thymari” just after the fish tavernas of Palea Phokea. Turn right, park the car, lay the towel and enjoy one of the finest pebble beaches of east Attica. Refreshments and snacks can be bought from a nearby kiosk.

Harakas

n the way to Sounio, just between Keratea and Lavrio. Be careful because if you miss the sign “Traditional settlement of Harakas” and not turn left, you might get lost. But do insist, as you’ll get rewarded with one of the least known beaches of Attica, therefore quiet. Bring water, snacks and stuff like that, you won’t have the chance to buy them in a shop. That’s the price you pay for private sunbathing.

Legrena

n weekdays it almost feels like a private beach. It’s situated in front of its namesake village, 60 km from Athens and some three km west of Sounio. It’s not easy to find, but it’s worth the effort because it’s very clean and usually offers charming crystal waters.

Shark Ski Located at the Yabanaki beach park in

Varkiza (just 20 km from the city centre), this school offers Ski, Wakeboard, Barefoot, Wakeskate and Wakesurf lessons for €35, as well as thrilling water activity toys like tubes and banana rides for €15 and €10 per person, respectively. For more info on packages and lessons, call coaches Dimitris and Aggelos (who have won awards in National, Balkan, European and World Ski championships) at +30 697 7458988. sharkski.gr

YaSurfaki On the same beach, you can enjoy Windsurfing as well as Stand Up Paddle surfing (SUP) – an amazing full body workout. Windsurfing lessons cost €30, and you can rent boards for €25 per hour or €40 for 2 hours. SUP lessons cost €30 and board rental is €10 for half an hour or €15 for 1 hour. For more info on special packages, call coach Pavlos (European Ski Champion) at +30 698 3609573. It is definitely worth it! yasurfaki.gr Lolos Ski Center Located on Vouliagmenis Beach (at Vouliagmeni Nautical Club), this school offers Wakeboard, Wakesurf and Ski lessons (€35) – as well as a slalom course – and tubes (€25 per person). For more info and lessons bookings call coaches George (+30 693 7151290) or Stelios (+30 694 5102510). This beach is also the best spot to surf around Athens, although you'll need your own board. Prices include equipment.

All spots are ideal for both beginners and professionals. For wind conditions visit accuweather.com -Maro Zina

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_135

Swim safe in Attica 5 tips from Georgia Tsougani and Theologos Terziadis

* Greek Lifeguard School teachers

1 2 3 4 5

Attica’s beaches are generally safe with no strong currents or prospects of tsunamis. Nevertheless, it’s wise to ask a lifeguard or a local for advice before entering the sea. When the orange flag flies high on the tower, it means that the lifeguard is on duty (10:30-17:30). A red flag, however, indicates that the lifeguard is off duty. So take care! Given the ozone hole threat, it’s advisable not to sunbathe between the hours of 12:00 and 16:00. In any case, DO NOT forget your sunscreen. At beaches with watersports, always swim clear of the marked corridors designated for speedboats. It’s also important not to swim close to the marine buoys. July and August are the months when the meltemia (strong winds) blow, especially in the Aegean Sea. Try to avoid north-facing beaches when the winds are gusting.

Hogwet to ere th

Karavi (Schinias)

ne of the most equipped beaches in the Marathonas area with a parking space for at least 1,500 cars. Sometimes though, during busy summer weekends, it might be difficult to find a slot. It attracts large crowds due to its amenities: restaurants, beach bars, three beach volley courts. It has become a synonym to watersports. It also provides first aid, coastguards, wireless Internet access and even a meteorological station. Don’t expect quietness and much space for your towel.

Avlaki & Erotospilia (Porto Rafti)

ocated south of the picturesque Porto Rafti peninsula, well protected from northern and southern winds. The first one offers sun beds and umbrellas, basketball courts, and a wide choice of restaurants, tavernas and snack bars. The second one is the Greek word for “love cave” and used to be a secret mini bay for swimming loners. Now it’s popular.

A΄ Voulas Beach

Take the tram It’s the best choice if you head south as far as the Voula beaches. Take the bus It might be crowded, hot, sweaty but it’s all part of a summer experience in Athens. To the South Coast buses #A2, #A3, #B3 and #E22 (express) from Akadimias Terminal, #155 Omonoia Terminal, #114 (Glyfada-Kavouri-Vouliagmeni) or #115/6 (Glyfada-Vouliagmeni-Varkiza) To the West Coast use Attica intercity buses (KTEL). Departure from Thissio, Ag. Asomaton sq. (Athens-Porto Germeno (€ 6.30, 120΄, it also serves Psatha, Alepochori, Pachi) Mon-Sun: 07:30 & 14:30 To the East Coast use Attica intercity buses (KTEL).

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Departure from Mavromateon str., Pedion Areos.

Athens - Anavissos € 4.70, 90΄ (Mon-Sun: 06:30 & 07:30 and then every hour until 21.00) Athens - Thymari € 5.10, 105΄(Mon-Sun: 06:30 & 08:30 and then every two hours until 16.30) Athens - Legrena € 5.70, 110΄ (Mon-Sun: 06:30 & 08:30 and then every two hours until 16:30) Athens - Marathonas to Karavi beach € 3.70, 90΄ (Mon-Fri: first 05:30, 22:30 last/Sat-Sun: first 07:30, last 22:30) Athens - Avlaki € 3.70, 80΄ (Mon-Fri: 05.45 & every hour until 21.00 /Sat-Sun: -05:45 & every hour until 19:45)

Pool fun

underwater

wonders

Sparkling turquoise waters, spacious terraces, relaxing deckchairs with an inspiring view of the Acropolis or the Aegean. Most hotels in Athens offer swimming pool facilities for a refreshing dip. Listed below are our favourite spots for urban swimming.

Hilton Athens

t features the largest outdoor swimming pool in the heart of the city. You can unwind beside palm trees sipping a cocktail from the stylish bar while the kids splash around in the adjacent children’s pool. Hilton’s pool is open from May to September. Vasilissis Sofias 25 (+30) 210 7281000 www.hiltonathens.gr/en

St. George Lycabettus

he best for the hot summer days in Athens. There is also a contemporary steam bath with outstanding views of Athens as a backdrop. Kleomenous 2 (+30) 210 7416000 www.sglycabettus.gr

Radisson Blue Park Hotel

ocated on the border of the central park of Athens, Pedion Areos. Its outdoor swimming pool on the rooftop (8th floor) offers a breathtaking view to Lycabettus Hill. Alexandras 10 (+30) 210 8994500 www.rbathenspark.com

Classical Athens Imperial

ocated within walking distance from the historical centre of Athens. Its swimming pool on the rooftop overlooks the Acropolis. The very stylish “Hippy Chic Lounge Bar” guarantees a visit to remember. M. Alexandrou 2-6 & Karaiskaki (+30) 210 5201600 www.classicalhotels.com/athensimperial

Divani Caravel

he place to enjoy both the Acropolis and the Lycabettus Hill while in the water. Vasileos Alexandrou 2 (+30) 210 7207000 www.divanis.com/caravel/default-gr.htm

Asteras Glyfadas Complex

Greek seas offer perfect conditions for diving in their clean and crystal clear waters. Not to mention that it is almost certain to come across shipwrecks and caves. If you aren’t an experienced diver there are plenty of schools that offer diving and snorkeling lessons around Attica. Aqua Divers Club

stone’s throw from Athens. The club offers a comprehensive selection of PADI diving courses with all the necessary multimedia equipment for teaching/training purposes, daily boat and shore fun dives, and equipment for rental or sale. 48.5 km Athens-Sounio road (+30) 210 9713550 www.aquadiversclub.gr

Athina Diving

n exotic seaside paradise. The parties at the Balux Café by the open-air pool are always the talk of the town. Posidonos 58 (+30) 210 8941620 www.asterascomplex.com

t is located directly on the beach and therefore has easy access to many diving sites around the Attica area. 38 km Athens-Sounio road (+30) 229 1025434 www.athinadiving.gr

Astir Palace

Divers Club

A A

resort for refreshing dives with a cosmopolitan flair by the clear waters of the Saronic Gulf. It is also equipped with sea sports of all kinds such as water-skiing, windsurfing, paragliding and others. Apolonos 40, Vouliagmeni (+30) 210 8902000 www.astir-palace.com

t operates since 1988 in the sea of the South Euboean gulf in Attica. You can practice at a very beautiful place on the beach of Marathon. N.Makri , 417 Marathonos av. (+30) 229 4069196 www.diversclub.gr

Grand Resort Lagonissi

truly blissful hideaway with private outdoor swimming pools overlooking the Aegean. 40th km Athens-Sounio (+30) 229 1076000 www.grandresort.gr

Atlantis Diving

five star diving centre that offers courses of free diving as well as first aid lessons. Olympias 38, Argiroupoli (+30) 210 9762777 www.atlantis-diving.gr -Lena Chourmouzi CITY GUIDE summer 2012_137

Thessaloniki Join the celebration Βy Dimitris Karathanos

Marking a century since the city’s liberation and incorporation into the Greek state, 2012 is an important year for Thessaloniki in many aspects. Even by the standards of an economic crisis that has reached the north as soon as it struck the rest of the country, Thessaloniki is in a comparatively better shape and with a number of set goals for the future. Mayor Yannis Boutaris is determined to promote the city’s tourism by highlighting its rich history and cosmopolitan character, with the motto “many stories, one heart”. In recent months, visits from abroad have increased significantly. A unique fusion of past, present and future, Thessaloniki is always lively and worth your while.

MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES Archaeological Museum

hronologically, the museum narrative begins on the lower level with the exhibition “5,000, 15,000, 200,000 years ago… An exhibition about life in prehistoric Macedonia”. The section “Towards the birth of cities …” presents the material remains from settlements and cemeteries dating to the Iron Age (1100-700 BC) in the region extending between Mt. Athos and Olympus. The permanent exhibition also includes the “Macedonia from the 7th BC until late antiquity”, “Thessaloniki, The Metropolis of Macedonia”, recreating the unique role played by Thessaloniki during the Roman period, and finally, “The Gold of Macedon” thematic. Manoli Andronikou 6 (+30) 2310 830538 | www.amth.gr Mon 10:30-17:00 / Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00 € Admission fee: € 6

State Museum of Contemporary Art

oused in a renovated monastery in the western district of Stavroupoli, its pride and joy is the huge Costaki collection. With 1.275 masterpieces of Russian avant garde artists of the 1890 – 1930 period, the collection covers every art movement, such as neo-primitivism, suprematism, constructivism and futurism. Representative of all the trends and tendencies of one of the most interesting periods of international art history, the collection offers the chance to the visitor to witness the works of colossal figures of the early 20th century. Kolokotroni 21, Moni Lazariston, Stavroupoli (+30) 2310 589140 / 1 | www.greekstatemuseum.com Tue-Wed-Thu-Fri 11:00-19:00 /Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 / Mon Close € Admission fee: €3

Museum of Photography

his museum plays a pivotal role in the city’s cultural life, with its constant artistic activity. Its goals include the organisation of exhibitions and production of publications, the support of historical research and criticism on the subject of Greek photography, the creation of an updated library with titles and documents of Greek and international photographic literature, as well as the enrichment of its collection with donations and purchases of historical and contemporary photographic works by Greek and foreign photographers. Port of Thessaloniki, Warehouse A (+30) 2310 566716 | www.thmphoto.gr Tue-Wed-Thu-Sun 11:00-19:00 /FriSat 11:00-21:00 /Mon closed € Admission fee: €2

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Kama See you ra se 5â&#x20AC;?: in in five m Kamara inutes. The Ar ch is the m of Galerius e for you eting point ng stud lovers a ents, n proteste d rs.

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_139

Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art

he first museum of contemporary art in Greece. This is where the internationally acclaimed collector Alexandros Iolas chose to donate thirty works of global fame. Standing out as the institution that endlessly promotes Greek and foreign art, it often loans works to other European museums, publishes collectable catalogues of its exhibitions, organises special programmes and holds lectures. Warhol, Akrithakis, Beuys, Takis, Fassianos, Zongolopoulos are just a few of the artists included in the permanent collection. Helexpo, Egnatia 154 (+30) 2310 240002, 2310 281212 | www.mmca.org.gr Tue-Sat 10:00-14:00, 18:00-21:00 / Sun 10:00-15:00 /Mon closed € Admission fee: € 4

HOTELS The Excelsior Hotel ***** (5-star)

request. Comfort meets practicality with the popular district of Valaoritou right out of its doorstep. Thermaikos bay is so close you feel you can touch it. The business and commercial centre is right around the corner. Valaoritou 21 (+30) 2310 502280 | www.colors.com.gr

RESTAURANTS .ES

amed after Spain’s internet domain extension, .ES naturally relies heavily on its Spanish influences, without necessarily being limited to them. Delicious cuisine, all day coffee bar and an evening cocktail destination, it is also an institution of modern art, with a constant flow of painting and photography exhibitions. €€ Fragon 2-4 (+30) 2310 532503 13:00-03:00

Paparouna rainchild of a family of hoteliers with a longstanding reputation for their commitment to excellence, the rom artists and students to civil servants or businessmen, Excelsior is a luxurious contemporary five star boutique everyone here seems to share a taste for the subtly elegant hotel which has already earned great acclaim among locals interior, the smooth jazz, as well as one of the largest wine seand foreigners. The interior resembles a Parisian building lections, with more than 250 local and international etiquettes of the 1900s with a classic marble staircase and an original to choose from. With its sweet wine and vibe, Paparouna vintage elevator, both of them adding smart overmeets everyone’s mood and has taken a place in the urtones to modern stylistic touches. ban heart, as a place where cocktails and funky soul ki: e Mitropoleos 23 (+30) 2310 021020 selections blur together under the moonlight. €€ r u o s T l ditiona | www.excelsiorhotel.gr Pageou 4 & Doxis (+30) 2310 510852 The tra e. Most k 20:00-03:00 a c ’s ly y cit reki on The Met Hotel ***** (5-star) eat tsou

Greeks

ter.

Eas Agirovoli pacious as it gets, with 212 rooms during niki, any lo a s s and suites, it’s also luxurious without robably the best seafood taverna in the e In Th oureki making a fuss out of it: simple, elegant, city’s heartland. Always the freshest in the day is ts y! da minimally furnished. Noteworthy is also the market, the fish are brought daily and customers Met’s extensive collection of fine art. Artists describe the sardines or the barbounia with words include Bill Viola, Thomas Struth, Erwin Wurm, Caroranging from “excellent” to “sublime”. But it’s truly the line Achaintre, Daniela Brahm, Andreas Gursky and Jorge lobster or shrimp spaghetti that makes Agirovoli such a reguPardo among others, all of them adding brash strokes to an lar hangout for the city’s cool crowds. Once there, make sure atmosphere of cool sophistication. you combine appetizers with a shot of ouzo or tsipouro. €€ 26th Oktovriou 48 (+30) 2310 017000 | Lori Margariti 13 (+30) 2310 239599 www.themethotel.gr 12:00-02:00

Daios Luxury Living ***** (5-star)

Ermis

n impressive exterior resembling a ship with balconies looking like decks and rooms looking like cabins. An array of glassworks puts you into a voyager’s frame of mind. A hotel anchored in front of the Thermaikos coastline. Check in and sail away. Leoforos Nikis 59 (+30) 2310 250200 | www.daioshotels.com

amed after Hermes, the messenger of mythical gods, Ermis definitely delivers for more than twenty years. The house salad, made with fresh greens, kiwi and salmon is the perfect appetiser for specialties like the Hunkar veal, based on a legendary recipe, with roots in Constantinople. €€ Rogoti 4 (+30) 2310 270.783 09:00-2:00

City Hotel **** (4-star)

deal for those eager to feel the downtown vibes, offering close eyesight at most of the shopping, culinary and drinking attractions of Tsimiski Street and Aristotelous Square. City manages to make a difference as a top range four-star hotel that provides high quality accommodation and facilities in its 125 renovated and spacious rooms. Komninon 11 (+30) 2310 269421 | www.cityhotel.gr

Colors Rooms & Apartments **** (4-star)

ffordable luxury for the modern traveller. Elegant, sophisticated with a dash of colourful funk, Colors provides spacious rooms that can accommodate from 1 to 4 persons. Rooms consist of a living room, separate bedroom, en-suite bathroom and working area. Kitchenettes also available upon

140_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Elia Lemoni

rills and roasts of the finest quality in a classic spot that attracts crowds on a daily basis, make a visit to the eastern parts of the city worthwhile, if not obligatory. The salads are always fresh, the fries delicious and from the appetizers to the desserts, Elia Lemoni’s menu confirms the reason for its popularity. € Markou Botsari 19 (+30) 2310 865691 12:00-01:00

Negroponte

s an attempt to revive the traditional 1930s cook-room, Negroponte makes things the old way: from ingredients one would only use at home and with generous use of virgin olive oil. Fish, meat and vegetable dishes are all among specialties and the wine is good, cheap, home-made and served straight from the barrel. €

Photo DIMITRIS KARATHANOS

Egiptou 24, Ladadika 12:00-01:00

(+30) 2310 523571

BARS - CLUBS Cantina Tropicana

rom sweet soul, to wild rockabilly, to swinging jazz, to indie guitars, Cantina Tropicana is a place where everything mixes in sweet and unexpected ways. Stoa Kolomvou, Egnatias 31 (+30) 2310 539127 08:00-05:00

Pulp

osy pub on the borders of Svolou and Agias Sofias square. Pulp’s sign is a free adaptation of Andy Warhol's Campbell soup design. Other than that, Pulp is a fine, traditional pub with an ear for great music. Aleksandrou Svolou 8 (+30) 2310 270830 12:00-03:00

he new dance temple for electronica, r’n’b and house enthusiasts, W evolves mainly around the delirious beats of local turntable heroes but also happens to invite Athenian names of higher esteem. Using a high-end sound system and the latest in lightning and futuristic decoration, it is expected to be the hottest name of the city’s clubland. Frixou 3, Sfagia 23:00-06:00

Favela

queezed between the central bus station and the brimful of energy Tsimiski and Mitropoleos markets, Favela is located on the first floor of a renovated archway. It succeeds in offering an oasis of tropicalia cool, obliging a visit from fans of cool vibes and delicious cocktails.

Stoa Levi, Rogoti 3

10:00-03:00

Paul M

asual, but serious about its products and services, Paul.M is an open espresso bar at the crossway of the Tsimiski and Pavlou Mela streets, a short walk from the seafront. Appealing mostly to on-the-go customers, passers-by and the staff from the surrounding shops and offices, it combines good coffee and fresh juices with an aesthetically unique, cosmopolitan atmosphere. Pavlou Mela 13A-15 (+30) 2310 267200 08:00-02:00

Mavro Provato

rawing from the city’s obsession with guitar oriented music, it does not limit itself within the margins of the rock idiom. Resident d.j.’s include a few of the city’s most popular webradio and FM producers. The crowd is somehow unidentifiable, as so often happens with so many bars in the area of Valaoritou. A good option for any weekday, the tension rises accordingly with the volume during weekends. Syggrou 11 20:00-05:00

The Real Rocknrolla

oca 45, Terry Lee Brown Jr., the Basement Freaks and the Herbalizer are only a few of the masters of the funky breakbeat that have exploded the Rocknrolla d.j. booth in the beginning of this season. One of the latest admissions in the Valaoritou colonial nightlife expansion, the Real Rocknrolla is one of the most, if not the most crowded club. With practically everyone wishing to be here, it’s hard to define the type of the clientele, so let’s just say that the human geography is interlinked by the faith: “one city under one groove”. Valaoritou 31 (+30) 2313 037828 06:00-04:00 CITY GUIDE summer 2012_141

EK GRENDS ISLA

pop10 Loved by everyone

By VANGELIS KORONAKIS

ith 227 inhabited islands, surrounded by crystal clear waters and offering world class beaches and landscapes,it is only natural that Greece was one of the first holiday destinations when mass tourism started a few decades ago. Some islands became so popular that their entire economies are now based on tourism. However,there are others that have only been“discovered” as holiday destinations –even by the Greeks– in recent years. Although the generalised term“Greek Islands” brings to mind one particular kind of holiday,every single one of them has its own distinct character.Some are rocky,others green.Some are mountainous, others flat.Many are famous for their nightlife,while others are renowned for their tranquility and relaxed lifestyle. Quite a few cater to high-end tourism and exclusive crowds, while there are islands that attract young and alternative types.Top ten lists can never be exhaustive by any means, and you can only discover your own personal paradise by trial and error.

Seychelles-Ikaria 142_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

SERIFOS

The “i once a sland of the C is a typmajor minin yclops”, just 2,5 ical Cycladi g centre, c islan hours f Its pre d r main v tty “Ηora”, thom Piraeus. illage o e w hitewa n top is on sh Greek i e of the pretti of the mount ed ain est amo slands . Its bea n class, n ches ar g all o t t o o crowde e world for cou da pl Remai es and famili nd ideal ns es a can be of the old min like. found o es of them n most .

EK GRENDS ISLA

Kefalonia

Louis De Bernières has done for Kefalonia what the best PR consultant wouldn’t even begin to imagine with his wonderful novel and worldwide best seller “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin”, which is set on the island. And when the film came out a few years later the natural beauty and the sapphire waters of Kefalonia were advertised on screen too and its tourism fortunes were turned upside down overnight. Myrtos is the most famous of its beaches, but there is a plethora of things to do and a wonderful nature to appreciate away from the coast too. Argostoli and Lixouri are the two (rival) main towns, while Fiscardo and Sami (the village where the film was set) are well worth visiting.

Paros

Probably the most typical of the Greek islands and a convenient base for island hoping around the Cyclades due to its excellent ferry connections. The beaches, the nightlife and the accommodation choice are all excellent and many holiday makers return year after year. Parikia with its lovely old town is the capital and the port of Paros, but most nightlife is concentrated in picturesque Naousa. Regular international windsurfing competitions are held at noisy Chrysi Akti beach but you can easily find quiet and isolated beaches if all you want is to relax and enjoy the blue waters. And if really quiet holidays are more up your street, Antiparos is the tiny and alternative neighbour just minutes away on a local boat.

144_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Mykonos

A cross between Capri and Ibiza (in its good days) but with a very Cycladic feel, Mykonos boasts of the best beaches in the country, the craziest nightlife and the most ridiculous prices you’ll pay in Greece. Celebrities, gays, and wannabes flood the island every summer. They sunbathe their days away on their pre-booked sunbeds and their nights squeezing pass each other in the narrow streets of the picturesque village, moving between bars and clubs. Bring along the best pieces of your wardrobe (preferably white), all your energy and credit cards. The fact that the world famous Japanese restaurant Nobu set up shop first in Mykonos and a few years later in Athens says a lot about the kind of holiday you should expect there.

Crete

The largest Greek island, Crete has a distinct local culture and will satisfy whatever it is you’re looking for. Busy touristy resorts, wonderful old towns like Chania and Rethymno, amazing deserted beaches even in August (especially on the south coast), unspoiled mountain villages with people untouched by the tourism “gold fever”, and the best food by far among all Greek islands. It is a trekker’s paradise, with top attraction the challenging Samaria Gorge and one of the highest mountains in the country Idi (locally known as Psiloritis). It is impossible to “do” Crete in one visit so try to concentrate either on the East (based around Agios Nikolaos) or West (based at Chania or Rethymno). A car is necessary in any case. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_145

Isla hoppin nd “LifeThg with ink”

EK GRENDS ISLA

All you n desti eed to know on yournation quickly about your p a ama hone. “Life nd easy which pzing mobile tr Think” is an av r of inforovides extensivel guide, m a ti on. Dow e amounts app for fre nlo amazine and browse thad the g image s an rough the atm osphere d feel Greek is of lands.

Santorini

If you’re going to visit only one Greek island in your life then let it be Santorini. Breathtaking volcanic views and one of the best sunsets in the world consistently place it at the top of any Greek islands list. Its beaches are very peculiar (and do not appeal to everyone) because of the black and red volcanic sand. Couples should opt for tranquil and romantic Oia, where luxury rooms with a Caldera (the volcanic crater) view can cost a fortune, whereas those young at heart should choose Fira, the lively capital of the island built on top of the Caldera cliff with equally fantastic views. The eastern side is generally cheaper and has little of the magic Santorini feel.

Corfu

A northern Ionian island with a mixture of influences ranging from the Venetians to the French, Italian and British (the only place in Greece that you can watch locals playing a cricket game and drinking ginger ale!). The Old Town with the two fortresses is an UNESCO world cultural heritage site and the nature one of the best you can find on any Greek island. Fine beaches with freezing cold waters on the eastern side attract thousands of visitors every summer and as in every large tourism-orientated Greek island the range of holidays one can enjoy is vast. 146_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Ios

The alternative corner of the Aegean during the 70s and 80s. Its fans have grown up now and have proper jobs but something of the atmosphere of those days is still preserved on the island. The whitewashed houses of Hora, its main village, hide a frenetic nightlife, that you’ll appreciate more if you are under 25. Its beaches though, are at par with the best in Cyclades and indeed the whole country (Ios and in particular the isolated beach of Manganari is the favourite summer destination of Greek celebrities). If you suddenly feel too old for the exhausting pace of the place, you are only a short ferry ride away from Santorini.

Rhodes

Once home to one of the seven wonders of the world, the “Colossus”, Rhodes is one of the earliest holiday destinations in the country. It is marked by the wonderful Medieval Old Town, another UNESCO world heritage site. Most holiday makers arrive on charter flights as the ferry from Piraeus can take many hours, and they have a good choice of resorts on the island, ranging from the top all-inclusive five star hotels to downright “sun’n’booze” holidays. There is plenty of sightseeing to do, and a number of museums to give you that cultural alibi between your long days on the fine beaches and the long nights out.

Skiathos

Unlike the Cyclades, Skiathos and its neighbouring Sporades complex are flooded with pine trees that reach the sea and surround its numerous sandy beaches, like Koukounaries, one of the prettiest and busiest in the country. Hora, the capital of the island is an idyllic village with red-roofed white houses built on a hillside surrounding the harbour. An ideal destination for families and those not attracted by the harsh and rocky natural beauty of the islands of southern Aegean. Easy access to the rest of the Sporades, Skopelos, Skyros and Alonissos, makes local island hopping possible. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_147

top

EK GRENDS ISLA

his is a different Top 10, one of unspoiled and unknown to the masses destinations. Many of the 227 inhabited islands fit the bill and it was tough to choose ten for this list. Those we have picked (the order is not very important) share some common characteristics: ● They’re all unspoiled by tourism and have been discovered by wider crowds only during the last few years. ● They offer quiet and tranquil holidays – so if you’re looking for serious nightlife, just look at the first list. ● For that same reason they’re more suitable to couples or families as opposed to large groups of lads or girls. The likelihood of mating there is much lower than in massive charter ridden islands too (but then again you never know). ● They are less easily accessible than the popular holiday destinations and it can take many hours on a slow ferry to reach them. ● They mostly attract upmarket tourism and travellers, who love to discover new places, so if the lager consuming crowds are more up your street, again look at the previous top ten list. With those two lists we hope we’ve given you enough teasers to either plan next year’s holiday or, immediately abandon the capital, head to Piraeus and get on the first ferry departing to the blue Aegean waters.

Symi

In m the sma any of the best ller islands those th beaches are o , not eas at are isolate ften a bike i ily accessible. d and su Re Howeve sually the best nting r o the roa , keep in mind ption. ds in m that a islands are far ny of these fro perfect. m being

Probably the poshest and most expensive in this group of ten and a favourite among yachters and international jet-setters, Symi is a small island near the Turkish coast. Yalos with the colorful neoclassical houses is the harbour of the island and Ano Symi, 500 stone stairs up, is the main town built around an old fortress. There are excellent beaches on the island, and most are reachable by boats departing from the harbour frequently. The guest house of the monastery of Archangel Michael Panormitis is a good alternative to stay if you arrive during the peak season. Best way to get to Symi is on a sailing boat but for the less lucky of you there are frequent boat connections from Rhodes.

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HIDDEN GEMS

Paxi

The smallest of the Ionian islands (the complex west of the mainland) is a giant olive grove surrounded by clear blue waters. It attracts quality tourism in smaller numbers compared to its neighbours but during August it is impossible to find accommodation. There are many pebbly beaches on the island –mainly on the eastern coast– and you can get to the most isolated ones by hiring a small motor boat for the day (no license necessary). The western part of the island is rocky with caves. Gaios is the main village and harbour and Lakka is a smaller picturesque village with nice little streets and traditional houses. For even more tranquility and isolation visit the island’s tiny satelite Antipaxi. A local ferry connects Paxi with Corfu and the rest of the Ionian islands.

Anafi

You must be determined to have a quiet holiday on a beautiful isolated island if you embark on the little odyssey necessary to reach Anafi. Although just a few miles away from Santorini, all high speed ferries end their journey there and your only option is the old slow and unreliable ferries that can take up to 18 hours from Piraeus (alternatively take the fast ferry or fly to Santorini and then hope for a local boat on that day). You’ll be rewarded however, as you’ll have one of the most tranquil holidays of your life. Hora is as usual, bright white and built on top of a mountain with a breathtaking view of the Aegean, while the island’s 5-6 beaches with most famous of them Roukounas, are top class. You and your companion will have a few hundred square metres of fine sand all to yourselves – even if you come in mid-August. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_149

EK GRENDS ISLA

Ikaria

Ikaria is an island like no other. The concept of time there is different from the rest of the world and it is worth visiting it if only to experience a lifestyle long gone in the western world. The island is dead until midday, shops open in the evening and stay open until the early morning hours. It is not uncommon for people to walk into a shop, pick up what they need, leave the corresponding cash and go, simply because the shopkeeper is not there. Ikaria is also famous for its Panigiria, huge village parties in honour of the patron Saint where everyone eats, drinks and dances the night away in the village square. Having said all the above, it is not surprising that with such a relaxed lifestyle people of Ikaria have one of the highest life expectancies in the world.

Elafonisos

If you love spending your days on a beach with white powder sand and crystal emerald waters and you can’t be bothered with long ferry rides, then Elafonisos is your holiday destination. Just a few minutes off the Peloponese mainland, all this tiny island has to offer is a beach. But what a beach – many insist it is one of the top 3 in Greece. We guarantee that you’re going to spend more time in the water than out of it and that you’ll go back home completely rejuvenated. The small village is just 5 km from Simos beach and offers all the necessary amenities and some very good seafood tavernas. There is an organised camping site on the beach. We highly recommend that you combine Elafonisos with a tour of the southern Peloponese (Mani, Kalamata etc.) by car. 150_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Patmos

There is a holy atmosphere everywhere on the island with hundreds of little churches and the imposing monastery in Hora where John visioned and wrote The “Apocalypse of Jesus Christ” (The Book of Revelations). Hora (the main village) looms on top of the rocky mountain. Walk in its quiet and narrow streets among the hundreds of whitewashed houses and you’ll feel the mysterious atmosphere whether you’re religious or not. Skala is the harbour and where most nightlife is concentrated (but don’t expect wild nights out). The beaches of the island are all above average: Psili Ammos is the most isolated one and Agrio Livadi and Kampos the most popular. There is no airport on the island, so you’ll have to fly to Kos and get the local ferry.

Kastelorizo

Kastelorizo is a tiny isolated island with a great sentimental value for the Greeks as it is the easternmost Greek (and European) piece of land (with the exception of a couple of rocky islets) and lies about 1.5 km off the Turkish coast. Colourful preserved stone houses with wooden balconies on the waterfront hide others that remain in ruins after a large fire during WWII that destroyed the village. An Ottoman mosque and the base the Italian administration during the occupation remind the visitors of the island’s rich history. Kastelorizo used to have more than ten thousand inhabitants but these days there are only four hundred left. The coastline of the island is steep and rocky. There are daily flights from Rhodes.

Gavdos

Gavdos is that small dot on the map just bellow Crete and it is a place worth coming to if only to experience the feeling of being on the very edge of Europe. Hundreds of campers arrive every summer and join the 50 locals who mainly live from tourism and fishing. Expect basic amenities, a few tavernas, a self styled night life and no ATMs to get money from, so make sure you have enough upon arrival (not that you’re going to need much here). The beaches of the island are excellent and Agios Ioannis is probably the best but you have to walk quite a while across dunes and cedar trees to get there. If you are not up for camping, there are some rooms available on the island but better book in advance if you want to visit in August. There is a ferry service from Paleohora and Sfakia (south Crete).

Samothraki

Lying in the northeastern Aegean, Samothraki boasts some of the most diverse natural beauty in the country. Olive groves and sandy beaches on the south resemble a typical Greek island. But the forests of chestnut trees and ancient oaks in the north with the hundreds of fresh water springs, rivers, small waterfalls and vathres (small lakes of fresh water) where swimming is possible, are all trademarks of this unique island. You can therefore enjoy a mountain break within your island holiday, with excellent mountaineering and trekking opportunities. Forget about seafood too. Here you’ll enjoy delicious goat and kid meat cooked in every possible way. The most popular of the island’s beaches are Pachia Ammos and Kipi and the best way to get there is fly to Alexandroupolis or Kavala from Athens and then take a local ferry.

Koufonisia

Until about 10 years ago, hardly any tourists (foreign or Greek) visited the two islands, and their amazing beaches were a well kept secret among the few nudist campers who spent their summers there. Suddenly Koufonisia became en vogue and the tiny Ano Koufonisi (the only inhabited of the two) gets so packed in August that you’d better chose Mykonos instead. However, the smart visitor who comes to the island off season will be rewarded with empty top class beaches and lots of fresh seafood as fishing is what most locals do for living. There are very few proper hotels on the island and the accommodation is cheap off-season. Local tourist boats depart daily to Kato Koufonisi, a nudist’s and free camper’s paradise, and Keros, a nearby uninhabited islet. The ferry from Piraeus takes about 8 hours. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_151

A Good Read while in Greece From Greek and foreign writers By DIMITRIS MASTROGIANNITIS

Salonica, City of Ghosts: Christians, Muslims and Jews 1430-1950

by Mark Mazower (Harper Perennial)

The story of a bustling, cosmopolitan and tolerant city that vanished in the course of time under the pressure of modern nationalism. Salonica was one of the most extraordinary and diverse societies in Europe. Located in Northern Greece, it lived for five centuries amid its minarets and cypresses on the shore of the Aegean, alongside its Roman ruins and Byzantine monasteries.

Che Committed Suicide (Eurocrime) & The late-night news (Grove Press) by Petros Markaris

Petros Markaris is a Greek writer of crime fiction featuring the grumpy Athenian police investigator, Costas Haritos. His books have been translated to numerous languages and he was included in the top 10 crime writers worldwide by The Observer. His novels provide the readers with both suspense and a critical view of the modern Greek society.

The House on Paradise Street by Sofka Zinovieff (Short Books)

A bestseller in Britain, excerpts of the book were recited in the popular show “Book at Bedtime” of BBC Radio 4. A thought-provoking, poignant novel that spans over six decades of Greek political history. From the Greek Civil War to the 2008 riots, Zinevioff traces the turbulent saga of a politically divided family.

Little Infamies Stories

by Panos Karnezis (Farrar Straus Giroux) The Little Infamies take place in an obscure Greek village. The main characters, quirky inhabitants of the village –the priest, the whore, the doctor, the seamstress, the mayor and even its animals, a centaur, a parrot that recites Homer, a horse called History– are entwined. As their lives intersect, everybody learns about the little infamies that the human race commits.

The Jasmine Isle

by Ioanna Karystiani (Europa Editions)

Set in the Cyclades Islands, this novel recounts the tragic love story between Siros Maltabes and the stunningly beautiful Orsa, who is sentenced by her tyrannical mother and Greek tradition to marry a man she doesn’t love while watching from a distance the man she loves marrying her sister.

Landscape with Dog And Other Stories

by Ersi Sotiropoulos (Clockroot Books) Contemporary Athens wavers before us. In Ersi Sotiropoulos's prose, the slightest event, the slightest change in the quality of the light, can alter everything. These stories will be praised for their flashes of beauty and their crackles of dark humour. 152_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Modern Greek Writing

by David Ricks (Peter Owen) An impressive collection of Greek literature from the War of Independence to the present day. More than 50 Greek authors of verse and prose including such world-famous poets as Cavafy, Seferis, Ritsos, and Elytis, some of whom demonstrate Greece's striking contribution in the areas of Surrealism and political verse.

Logicomix: An Epic Search for Truth (Bloomsbury)

by Apostolos Doxiadis, Christos Papadimitriou, Alecos Papadatos Another international hit set in Athens. An exceptional graphic novel that recounts the spiritual odyssey of philosopher Bertrand Russell. This story is both a historical novel and an accessible explication of some of the biggest ideas of mathematics and modern philosophy. Times magazine ranked Logicomix in the 6th position in the top 10 list of non-fiction books for the year 2009.

Traveller's Guide to the Ancient World: Greece in the year 415 BC

(David & Charles) by Eric Chaline Put on your chiton and sandals and discover what it would be like to travel back in time. Every page of this book brings back to life the ancient world in the style of a contemporary travel guide. Packed with maps and illustrations, a detailed guide to Athens and its environs, listing everything from how to buy a slave to where to get a room for the night.

hollywood gr Films with a Greek theme for the cold winter nights By VANGELIS KORONAKIS

Mamma Mia!

2008 Dir. Phyllida Lloyd Feat: Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan If you are a fan of ABBA music and the Greek islands, this is a perfect way to spend two entertaining and cheerful hours. The Aegean island of Skopelos is the setting of this feelgood film which is based on the original musical stage production. The performances are slightly over the top, the plot couldn’t be any simpler and Pierce Brosnan cannot sing, but all none of this matters. You will be singing along and having great fun for the duration of the film.

My Big Fat Greek Wedding

2002 Dir. Joel Zwick Feat: Nia Vardalos, John Corbett Toula, a 30 year old Greek, born in the US, is expected by her family to marry a Greek Orthodox guy and live happily ever after. Instead she falls for Ian, a protestant American, and the shocked family finds it hard to come to terms with their bad fortune. A hilarious comedy packed with exaggerated stereotypes about the traditional Greek family. It didn’t go down very well among some humourless Greeks but foreigners with a first hand experience of a Greek family absolutely loved it.

Captain Corelli’s Mandolin

2001 Dir. John Madden Feat: Nicolas Cage, Penelope Cruz The film that changed Kefalonia’s tourist fortunes. Based on Louis De Bernières’ wonderful novel and worldwide bestseller, this is a war-time love story between Pelagia, a country girl, and captain Corelli, an officer of the Italian occupying force on the island. Although the simplified story doesn’t quite live up to the book, the beautiful scenery and sapphire waters of the island produce excellent photography, making it a perfect teaser to start planning your next summer holiday.

10+1ESSENTIAL GREEK MUSIC ALBUMS By Makis milatos

Mikis Theodorakis Enas Omiros (1961)

Shirley Valentine

1989 Dir. Lewis Gilbert Feat: Pauline Collins, Tom Conti Shirley, a bored Liverpool housewife wins a trip to sunny Mykonos, where she finds romance and happiness in the company of a local restaurant owner. Away from her boring and unfulfilling life she gets the chance to rediscover herself and her true inner longings. A classic British comedy with the cliché and overplayed “give up everything and follow your heart” scenario, but in this case given with a good dose of Greek scenery and some truly enjoyable dialogues.

Mediterraneo

1992 Dir. Gabriele Salvatores Feat: Diego Abatantuono A squad of Italian soldiers, not much interested in fighting, are sent to the island of Kastelorizo during WWII. Cut off from the war for years, they become part of the local community and start enjoying their lives on the island. A bittersweet Italian comedy with an Academy Award for best foreign film.

Summer Lovers

1982 Dir. Randal Kleiser Feat: Peter Gallagher, Daryl Hannah This is a corny 80s film with a story that may not appeal to everyone. However, if you watch it in a cold and rainy winter day it is guaranteed to make you long for the summer. Santorini in its full swinging glory makes up a “postcard from Greece” film that could be easily used by the Greek Tourism Organisation. A young Daryl Hannah has to put up with her boyfriend’s summer affair and eventually finds herself happily entangled in an erotic triangle.

Troy

2004 Dir. Wolfgang Petersen Feat: Brad Pitt, Orlando Bloom A blockbuster adaptation of Homer’s epic poem. The Greeks lead by Achilles siege Troy to bring back home Helen of Sparta who has run away with Paris, the prince of Troy. Definitely an entertaining and visually satisfying film, with a good cast and impressive graphics. History buffs have objections regarding the accuracy of the screenplay but don’t forget, this is a Hollywood production, if one wants the true and full story one must read the Iliad.

Zorba the Greek

1964 (b/w) Dir. Michael Cacoyannis Feat: Anthony Quinn, Alan Bates A young English writer inherits a mine on the island of Crete and travels there taking with him Alex Zorba, a middle aged man as an aide to run the mine. A fantastic adaptation of the most translated Greek novel internationally. Antony Quinn perfectly personifies Kazantzakis’ hero Zorba who teaches the young writer a thing or two about how life should be lived and appreciated. Nominated for seven Academy Awards and winner of three.

Political songs written in Paris in 1961, based on a theatrical play by Brendan Behan. ™

Manos Hadjidakis - Paschalies mesa apo ti nekri gi (1961) 16 rebetika and folk songs, played by a small orchestra. ™

(1965)

Manos Hadjidakis To hamogelo tis Tzokontas

One of the most popular and highly respected albums of Greek music. It was recorded in New York in 1965, and produced by Quincy Jones. ™

Vangelis + Irene Papas Odes (1979) & Rapsodies (1986) Electronica, mixed with traditional Greek music and ancient Greek text. ™

Aphrodite’s Child 666 (1972) An internationally acknowledged Greek band that released one of the most significant albums of the psychedelic progressive rock genre. Its members included Vangelis and Demis Roussos in their early days. ™

Giorgos Zampetas Viva Zampetas (1969) Great Greek bouzouki by one

of the very first, most original “rappers” you can imagine. A truly cult figure in Greece, still remembered for his unique style. ™

Vasilis Tsitsanis Ta Klidia (1968) Leading composer and singer of rebetiko music. You could file this music as the Greek equivalent of the blues, only moodier. ™

Eleftheria Arvanitaki Dinata (2007) Very popular Greek singer with an international career and a bright voice. ™

Evanthia Reboutsika Politiki Koyzina (A Touch of Spice) (OST- 2003) Music for award-winning film by Tassos Boulmetis. Rich, cinematic, charming, tasteful and sentimental like “Cinema Paradiso” and “Life Is Beautiful”. ™

Alkistis Protopsalti San Ιfestio pou Xipna (1997) Modern high-brow songs from one of the best contemporary female artists in Greece, also well-known abroad for her dynamic style and impressive shows. ™

Imam Baildi - Imam Baildi (2008) A spicy blend of classic Greek rembetika from the 1940s and ’50s with playful beats. CITY GUIDE summer 2012_153

THE MAGICAL OPEN AIR TOURS OF ATHENS Three relaxed ways to tour all the must-see attractions around the city

Alw wear aayhsa before yo t on the Athu hop e double -decknesr bus

By LENA CHOURMOUZI

ith nearly 3000 years of continuous history, a tour around Athens can be daunting: where does one begin? Well, instead of touring aimlessly around the ancient Greek and Roman ruins, look for a guide. They are the ones who know stories, legends and myths to really bring to life the dozens of temples and sanctuaries you’ll see around the city. There are plenty of guided tours, but some stand out. We toured around by bus, train, and with the funky environmentally friendly Segway. All in the name of research, of course.

The Hop on experience (Map K10

Syntagma)

he open-top, double-decker sightseeing bus of Athens. Hop on at Syntagma Square. The bus traces the history and culture of Athens from ancient times to the present day, passing by a plethora of shopping opportunities along the route. Don’t feel intimidated by the chocking traffic. It is by far an advantage with this sightseeing bus experience. The more you get stuck in traffic, the more time you spend enjoying the sites. Take all the snapshots you want. However, be sure to come armed with a hat and sun protection. Info (+30) 210 9220604

The Red Line -The AthensTour

Starting Point: Syntagma Square Duration: 90 min, 15 stops (every 30 min) Tickets: Adults € 18/ Children (6-14 years) € 8 Ticket Validity: 24 hours and one day for free Commentary: Pre-recorded English, French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese Russian, Japanese, Chinese, Turkish and Greek

The Blue Line - The Piraeus and AthensTour

Starting Point: Cruise Ship Terminal (from Piraeus), Acropolis (from Athens) Duration: 70 min, 12 stops (every 35 min) Tickets: Adults € 22/ Children (6-14 years) € 9 Commentary: Pre-recorded English, French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese Russian, Japanese, Chinese, Turkish and Greek

Happy Urban Trains

wo trains with no tracks. Kids and senior citizens alike love them. Embark either on the Happy Train or the

154_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Sunshine Express. They are toy-like street trains that squeeze their way through the narrow streets of Athens historical centre. They pass by Plaka, the Temple of Zeus, Thissio, Zapion and the Acropolis Museum.

Info HappyTrain

(+30) 210 7255400 (Map K7

Monastiraki)

Starting Point: Ermou and Areos, Monastiraki Duration: 60 min Tickets: Adults € 6/ Children €4/ special offers for groups Commentary: English and Greek

Info Sunshine Express

(+30) 210 8819252 (Map L11

Syntagma)

Starting Point: Vasilissis Amalias (in front of the National Garden) Ticket Validity: 1 and 40 min approximately Tickets: Adults €5 / Children €3

Cool Segway (Map O9

Akropoli)

ide, slide and get the best of Athens – without breaking a sweat. The only city tour in Athens that doesn't get caught up in the hectic traffic. Hop on the most innovative personal means of transport to discover the capital’s few but scenic pedestrian walkways. The Segway is a two-wheeled, self-balancing electric vehicle with a top speed of 20,1 km/h, and it’s by far the most relaxed and effortless way to get around. There are five tours available, including one at night. No worries, drinking beer and riding a Segway is permitted. Eschinou & Frinichou 9, Plaka (+30) 210 3222500

Info Segaway

Ac ro p o l i s To u r Duration: 90-150 min Tickets : € 59 per person N at i o nal G ard en Duration: 90-150 min Tickets: € 59 per person Fi l o pap o u Hi ll Duration: 60 min Tickets: € 30 per person So u v la ki To u r Duration: 150 min Tickets: € 59 per person (including souvlaki lunch) Athens B y N ight Duration: 180-210 min Tickets: €80 (minimum booking 4 persons)

pedal

your way around Athens

They are daring, vocal and determined to show that Athens is a bike-friendly capital By LENA CHOURMOUZI

n recent years the number of cyclists on the streets of Athens has increased. Commuting by bike is gaining in popularity, especially now that the price of petrol rockets higher and higher everyday. The City Council has pledged to create an extensive cycling lane network and up to four bikes are allowed on the last coach of the Athens’s metro. At the same time, touring Athens on bike is one of the latest trends. The motto is: “You see more on a bike, you enjoy a lot more…”. We have tested some of the city centre’s bike rental shops, most of which are –not surprisingly– located close to pedestrian walkways.

Acropolis Bikes (Map H9

Panepistimio)

Offering mainly quality German bikes for €3 per hour, €10 for four hours, €15 per day and €25 for two days. If you’d like to keep the bike more days the charge is €7 per day. It’s worth trying

one of their guided tours. Aristidou 10-12 (+30) 210 3245793 www.acropolisbikes.gr

Athens by Bike (Map P9

Akropoli)

Funky Ride (Map P8

Akropoli)

Bikes ideal for trekking, complete with all the necessary accessories: white light in front, red light at the back, three gears, for €9 for up to eight hours and €12 per day. Dimitrakopoulou 1 211 7109366 www.funkyride.gr

A two-hour cycling in Athens will cost you €5. If you can manage to cycle for 12 Every hours you ’ll pay €8. Friday afternoon The charge for a day’s outside “Thissio” rental is €12. Look metro: Hundreds out for the discounts of cyclists meet there to cruise the when you rent a bike city all together. for two or more days. The price includes a helmet, a safety lock and a city map. There are also organised bike tours on offer. You can also book your rides online. Tzireon 16 & Athanasiou Diakou 117 (+30) 213 0423922 www.athensbybike.gr

@thens Useful info & online fun www.oasa.gr The capital’s Urban Transport Organisation. All you need to know to get around the city. Metro, bus, trolley and tram schedules, maps and ticket prices. www.aia.gr Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport. Airlines, flight schedules and real time flight information. www.ose.gr The Greek Railway company. Destinations, timetables and online booking. www.breathtakingthens.com The City of Athens web site for visitors. Information about what’s on in the city, things to see and do, hotels, restaurants, nightlife – in other words a complete city guide. www.visitgreece.gr The Greek National Tourism Organisation’s official web site.A well designed and tasteful source of information about the country, its history, its sights and everything a prospective visitor might need. www.my-greece.gr A fun application aspiring to become the world’s biggest database of images and videos from around Greece. Just log in, upload your memories from Greece and share them with the world. www.inyourpocket.com/greece/athens The Athens section of In Your Pocket international travel guide publications. Download our sister publication in PDF and leave comments and reviews about all the places you visited while in Athens. www.xpatathens.com Made for expats but useful for

tourists too. News, events, cinemas and city directory. www.culture.gr The web site of the Ministry of Culture with priceless information about all the archaeological sites and museums in the country. Invaluable. www.theotheracropolis.com The Acropolis of Athens has been many things other than what we have learned to believe. The collective behind the ‘www.theotheracropolis. com’ project introduces us to the different faces, roles and identities of the sacred rock through the centuries. They want to take our perception of the site away from the stereotypical tourist experience and “undermine the monolithic discourse on the Acropolis as an exclusively classical site”. An extremely interesting photo blog worth checking out before the obligatory visit, especially for those who like to go a bit deeper than the surface. www.parthenonfrieze.gr Hats off to the Ministry of Culture and everyone else involved in this unusual for the Greek public sector hi-tech effort. If you are an archaeology buff, just interested or want your kids to spend some pleasant yet useful time online then check out this great interactive application. You will see details of the Parthenon in 3D, take thematic interactive tours, learn about the frieze, play games and puzzles and download interesting brochures with useful information about the monument. -VANGELIS KORONAKIS

CITY GUIDE summer 2012_155

Public Transportation

in Athens Be prepared to walk. It’s unavoidable in Athens, and it’s still the best way to experience the city. Here is a guide on how to make your daily journeys smarter and faster, how to get to the airport and Attica’s harbours, how to use the dense transportation network and last –but not least– how to “navigate” through the city’s taxi maze. Plus some useful contact numbers. Βy TAKIS SKRIVANOS

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

he best and fastest means of transport is the Metro. Running since 2000, it has 34 stations covering most of the city’s areas, serving 700,000 passengers every day. Inside each station, ancient ruins discovered during its construction are on exhibit – be sure to check them out and and read all about them in the signs posted next to the displays. Smoking, eating, drinking is not allowed in any part of the metro system. The Tram and Suburban Railway are relatively recent additions to the city’s transportation network. Athenian passengers also use the older overground line of the metro system (you will too, if you’re heading for the port of Piraeus), Βuses and Τrolleys for their daily journeys. Overall, running hours start from 05:30 until a little before midnight, except for the Tram (Sun-Thu 05:30-01:00, FriSat 05:30-02:30) and the Metro that extends its hours until 02:00 on Fridays and Saturdays. Tickets cost € 1.40, and are valid for all means of transport and for as many journeys as you wish for up to 90 minutes after validation. 156_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

If you are planning to move around a lot buy the daily ticket (€ 4). The weekly ticket costs € 14. Ticket-control checks are frequent and if you’re caught without a ticket the fine is 20 times the value of the ticket you should have bought. To get to the ports of Rafina and Lavrio, you will need to use the intercity bus network (KTEL) departing from Pedion Areos park. For information call 14505.

Getting to the Airport 4 bus lines are available to get you to the airport, every 15-30 minutes, around the clock for € 5: the X93 departing from Kifisos Bus Station; the X95 from Syntagma Square; the X96 from Piraeus Port; and the X97 from Dafni metro station. Tickets can be bought once aboard the bus. You can also reach the airport by the metro or Suburban Railway (ticket price: € 8). Airport journeys by metro start at 05:30 and run every half-hour until 22:45. The Suburban Railway airport service starts at 06:00 and runs every 20 minutes until 23:00. You can also take a taxi – but be sure to read our advice below first.

There are 14,000 taxis running in the city!

he only time you might have to wait a little before finding one is on a Saturday night in a crowded area – or when it rains. Other than that, they are pretty much everywhere. Just don’t be surprised if you end up sharing your cab with another traveller heading in the same direction as you – it’s common practice here. These days, most taxi drivers understand English. However, the urban myths about them being frauds are as true as saying that it’s certain that you will loose your wallet down the central market. It’s not a certainty, but it’s definitely something you should watch out for. Be particularly careful when looking for a taxi in the Port of Piraeus. The minimum taxi fare is €3.20, the price per km is € 0.68 and it doubles between midnight and 05:00 am. Since 01.02.2011 the Ministry of Transport has fixed the fare to Eleftherios Venizelos Airport at € 35 (or € 50 from 24:00 to 05:00), including luggage, VAT and tolls. Below are telephone numbers to order a taxi (they charge € 2-3 on top of the fare): Planet (+30) 210 5123333 Asteras (+30) 210 6144000 Hermes (+30) 210 4115200 Express (+30) 210 9943000 Ikaros (+30) 210 5152800 Kosmos 18300 Pireas 1 (+30) 210 4182333 Glyfada (+30) 210 9605600 Enotita (+30) 210 6465309

lowly, but surely, Athens is getting wired for free. The starting point was the 2004 Olympic Games, and since then the number of public wi-fi hotspots in the city has increased. And, of course, almost all cafés and bars offer Internet to their customers free of charge. We make it even easier for you with this list of wi-fi hotspots. ● Airport El. Venizelos Wireless Internet Zone Service. For laptops and PDAs in the terminal area. 60 min free access. ● Athenswifi Free wireless web access at Syntagma sq., Thissio and Kotzia sq. ● Public Store The technology

multistore at Syntagma sq. ● New Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou 15. Free access to all visitors. ● Café Aegli/Zapion Located in Zapion Gardens, the café-bistro Aegli provides Internet at 1024K speed. ● The Mall Surf while shopping. Marousi, Andrea Papandreou 35-39. ● Doris OnPraxitelous 23, this restaurant offers wi-fi along with its traditional loukoumades and dishes cooked in rich olive oil. ● National Hellenic Research Centre 48 Vasileos Constantinou Avenue. The best place for inquisitive minds. ● University Campuses in Zografou and the city centre. -Lena Chourmouzi CITY GUIDE summer 2012_157

Emergency Numbers Usefurl s Aiport Police (+30) 210 3536919 e numb Ambulance 166 Coast Guard 108 ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400 Fire Service 199 Hospitals,Doctors,Pharmacies Info 14944 Police 100 SOS Doctors 1016 Tourist Police 171 Traffic Police (+30) 210 5230111 Ambulance sercice 166 Tourist police 171 Emergency Police 100 Fire Service 199 Greek Railways OSE 14944

Intercity Bus Network KTEL info 14505 Ferry info 14944

Piraeus Port Authority (+30) 210 4593000 Rafina PortAuthority 22940 22300 Lavrio PortAuthority 22920 25249 EleftheriosVenizelos 14944

International Airport (+30) 210 3530000

162_CITY GUIDE summer 2012

Hospitals Accident Hospitals AsklipieioVoulas Vasileos Pavlou 1,Voula,(+30) 210 8958301 • KAT Nikis 2, Kifisia,(+30) 210 6280000

Public General Hospitals Evangelismos Ipsilantou 45-47,Evangelismos,(+30) 210 7201000 • Geniko Kratiko - Gennimatas Mesogion 154, EthnikiAmyna,(+30) 210 7768000 • IppokratioVas.Sofias 114,Ampelokipi, (+30) 210 7483770 • Laiko AgiouThoma 17,Ampelokipi,(+30) 210 7456000 • Tzanio Afentouli &Tzani 1,Piraeus, (+30) 210 4519411

Public Children’s Hospitals Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou,Goudi,(+30) 210 7726000 • Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias, Goudi ,(+30) 210 7726000

Maternity Hospitals Alexandra Vas.Sofias 80,Megaro Mousikis, (+30) 210 7750432 • Elena Venizelou ElenaVenizelou sq,Ampelokipi ,(+30) 210 6432220 • Iaso Kifisias 37-39,(+30) 210 6184000 • Leto Mouson 7-13,(+30) 210 6902000 • Mitera Kifisias & Erithrou Stavrou 6,(+30) 210 6899421

 Embassies

AlbaniaVekiareli 7, Filothei, (+30) 210 6876200 • Australia Kifisias 1-3,(+30) 210 8704000 • Austria Vas.Sofias 4,(+30) 210 7257270 • Belgium Sekeri 3, Kolonaki,(+30) 210 3617886 • Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari 33A,Psyhiko,(+30) 210 6748106 • Canada Ioannou Gennadiou 4,(+30) 210 7273400 • Cyprus Herodotou 16, (+30) 210 7237883 • Czech Republic Seferi 6,Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6719701 • Denmark Vas.Sofias 11,(+30) 210 7256440 • France Vas.Sofias 7,(+30) 210 3391000 • Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3,Kolonaki,(+30) 210 7285111 • Hungary Karneadou 25,Kolonaki,(+30) 210 7256800 • China Krinon 2A,Psyhiko,(+30) 210 6723282 • Ireland Vas.Konstantinou 5-7,(+30) 210 7232771 • Israel Marathonodromou 1,Psyhiko,(+30) 210 6719530 • Italy Sekeri 2,Kolonaki,(+30) 210 3617260 • Japan Papadiamanti 21,Psyhiko,(+30) 210 6709900 • NetherlandsVas.Konstantinou 5-7,(+30) 210 7254900 • NorwayVas.Sofias 23,(+30) 210 7246173 • Poland Chrysanthemon 22,Psyhiko,(+30) 210 6797700 • Romania Em.Benaki 7,Psyhiko,(+30) 210 6728875 • Russia Nikiforou Lytra 28,Psyhiko,(+30) 210 6725235 • SerbiaVas.Sofias 106,(+30) 210 7774344 • Slovakia Georgiou Seferi 4,Psyhiko,(+30) 210 6771980 • SouthAfrica Kifisias 60,Marousi,(+30) 210 6106645 • Spain DionysiouAreopagitou 21,(+30) 210 9213123 • SwedenVas.Konstantinou 5-7,(+30) 210 7266100 • Switzerland Iasiou 2,(+30) 210 7230364 • Turkey Vasileos Georgiou 8,(+30) 210 7263000 • UK Ploutarhou 1, (+30) 210 7272600 • USA Vas.Sofias 91,(+30) 210 7212951-9