Made in Scotland Scotland is blessed with its fair share of the world’s best produce when it comes to natural heritage foods indigenous to our climate. We benefit, by enlarge, from steady rainfall and reasonable sunshine, the Gulf Stream and maritime breezes. Sure we have midges and haar but who has beef, lamb, shellfish, berries and game like us? Our dairy farmers are diversifying into high quality ice creams, cheeses and yoghurts and we have Scottish heritage grains grown commercially for the first time in over a century! Indeed over fifty Scottish foods have been officially recognised as among the world’s valued heritage foods on Slow Food’s International website. With such fabulous and intrinsically Scottish foods, past, present and future, this regular feature will focus on Scotland’s natural bounty and the folk who have used their ingenuity, passion and business acumen to use the produce in their own imitable ways.
All Roads Lead to Mull By Wendy Barrie Scottish Thistle Award Regional Ambassador (2018/19) for Central, Tayside & Fife Director of Scottish Food Guide groups. Highlanders would have once been the traditional house cow across north-west Scotland and as such be dual purpose (before the term existed). Possessing ancient genes, the bloodline of Highland cattle – and indeed Kerry - can be traced back to Auroch bones dating from over six thousand years ago. A few years back, we tested the milk quality of Highlanders and found it to be of an exceptionally high standard, particularly for making ice cream, cultured dairy products and fresh cheese. Its profile was less suited to maturing hard clothbound cheeses but I am sure that would not stop a cheesemaker making a fine truckle. Something to think about.
In a world where meat production in general and cows in particular receive undeserved negative press, Scotland is blessed with pasture, heath, hill and meadow where ruminants can graze freely in sustainable numbers, giving more back to mother earth than they take away. When researching cattle with my Leader–for-Scotland’s-Ark-ofTaste hat on I contacted many folk with knowledge of Highlanders and all roads led back to Tom Nelson and the Glengorm Fold on Mull where records exist of Highland cattle at Glengorm Castle, hefted on the hills, for over one hundred and seventy years.
Photographs courtesy of Glengorm
It would be a challenge to find a stronger image to portray Scotland than that of Highland cattle - unless of course there was a kilted lad or lassie in the photo too! Whether golden-haired or black, blonde or brindle the flowing locks of Highland cattle are stunning and come to think of it I have rarely seen a mucky coo! They seem to have the ability to keep their coats in good order! Their horns give them a don’t mess with me air however if handled from early years they can be passive and gentle. It is important for animals to be familiar with the farmer and also given the opportunity to follow their natural behavioural instincts such as hanging out in their family
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Tom was born and raised at Glengorm. His parents bought the estate in 1969. They had been looking for a hill farm to purchase and were invited up to view the five thousand acres on the northern tip of Mull. Shrouded in mist and typical west coast weather, his Mum was initially unconvinced but awaking next morning to brilliant sunshine on a perfect Scottish day she was instantly won over and the rest is history! The farm was exactly what they wished for, and the castle an intriguing incidental extra! These days it provides valuable income as B&B and self-catering holiday accommodation in addition to still being their family home.
