Made in Scotland
Hot Chefs & Heritage Meats By Wendy Barrie
Scottish Thistle Award Regional Ambassador (2018/19) for Central, Tayside & Fife Director of Scottish Food Guide As a pair of ethical omnivores we enjoy seeking out interesting eateries and good food is essential whether we are at work or play. Sometimes this results in a sumptuous day of dining, dipping into a country inn or a coastal café, savouring a mouth-watering mutton pie, a venison tagine or perhaps a summer berry crème brûlée. On other occasions I recall driving for hours, trying to find that elusive place to pause, tempting me with their clean bright façade and welcoming lights, when all I pass are fast food chains or unloved establishments. Many a time my fellow passengers were starving but they knew the score: travel with me and they would dine like kings but only when I found the smultronstället as they say in Sweden, meaning “that special place.” Until then they must haud yer wheesht and be patient! I have certainly found hidden gems in Scotland however there is always room for improvement. A few years ago in Sweden, we booked into an eco hotel, proudly displaying its sustainability credentials for saving the planet in style. Our room was lovely, minimalist, with virtuous bars of soap, a trickle of 80
water lest we waste any and light bulbs that flickered faintly. The environmental message continued through the design, heating, waste water and textiles however when it came to food it was conspicuous by its absence. Although there were a number of barbecues with signage inviting guests to cook al fresco, there had been no advance enlightenment on the subject. In the event, we, along with all the other tourists, had to return to our cars and drive ten miles to the only food outlet, a garage with a mini mart, and buy mass- produced rations to tide us over until breakfast. Twenty miles worth of fuel is hardly eco. I contemplated what the owners might have in their fridge as food did not seem high on the agenda and yet it plays such a significant role in both tourism and our environment. What a missed opportunity. Local meats, dairy and bread in a fridge with an honesty box would have been sufficient to transform our visit. We could have all barbecued simple delicious meals and supported the local producers. The importance of buying from fine Scottish producers, respecting and remaining loyal to them is a sign of a great chef or
cook. Sustainability is certainly a buzzword these days but, like ‘local,’ it can become over-used by marketeers as a throwaway line with little or no meaning. It is well-documented that menus with ‘Aberdeen Angus’ or ‘locally landed seafood’ are an instant draw but they have become so ubiquitous, how do we know which are genuine? Chefs who spend time building relationships with their suppliers have a depth of knowledge – they walk the walk, not just talk the
North Ronaldsay mutton
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talk. It takes time and energy and the results are rewarding: a strong produce-led menu, brimming with high quality ingredients, expertly prepared resulting in flavours that dance on your palate and remain in your memory. That is value for money and a marvellous meal experience. These same cooks are also thrifty, using every inch of each ingredient, sourcing sustainably and reducing their waste - a winning combo. And the dishes created need not always be complex: mouth-watering stovies
