Dining
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2 3 1 The butternut squash soup was velvety and plentiful.
2 Endives au Roquefort salade was a table favorite. 3 The tuna tartare appetizer had sesame dressing, true to its FrancoJapanese origin. 4 The Duarade poisson entree over cauliflower purée was accented by almonds and capers over crunchy rapini.
Le Bilboquet is Bit Tonier than Classic Bistro 4
By Marcia Caller-Jaffe
No one will be disappointed at Le Bilboquet, as it’s a fun staycation under the starry (étoilé) glass ceiling where diners get a chance to show off their broken college French and feel like it’s a special occasion night. Le Bilboquet bills itself as classic French, but we thought it was happily more nouvelle, accenting the fresh and light, green vegetables and reduced cook time. ATLANTA JEWISH TIMES
STYLE MAGAZINE • 38
Small details lead to inquiring about what really is a “bilboquet.” The secret is out as a traditional child’s toy with a ball connected to a string implying “playful.” Those with long memories may recall head chef Cyrille Holata, who served under French chef Joel Antunes in the eponymous Joel Brasserie on Northside Parkway, and more recently Davio’s in Phipps Plaza. The ambiance is a cool vibe punctuated with a Kate Moss
Chanel poster and terrariumlike exposed glass with twinkling exterior lights. The TV could be distracting where bar meets bistro. Well-placed other mixed media art is chic. The floor is a snazzy European deco terrazzo. The cuisine was authentic without being heavy handed, and not overly sauced. It was a modern take on French food with attention to detail. The menu is appetizer loaded with 15 hors d’oeuvres: the red and gold beet
salad with oranges and goat cheese (La Salade de Betteraves et Chevre, $16) was a work of art. The beets were thinly shaved instead of chunks. The scallion topping was a nice touch. The tuna tartare ($21) with sesame dressing added Japanese flair. Interesting to note that tuna tartare originated in Nagasaka as a Franco-Japanese creation. One diner at our table boasted that her best dish was the velvety butternut squash
