African Travel Market by African Travel Market

Issue 1 May to August 2014

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www.atmmag.net Issue 1: May to August 2014

ROMANCE & COLOURFUL CULTURES INVITE YOU TO ETHIOPIA, GHANA & MANY MORE...

AFRICAN ADVENTURES & SOULFUL JOURNEYS

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TRAINS, PLANES & AUTOMOBILES

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“Luxury Summed up in Three Words”

FOR RESERVATIONS, RATES, SCHEDULES AND SPECIAL PACKAGES PLEASE CONTACT US: PRETORIA” TEL: +27 (0) 12 334-8459/60, FAX: +27 (0) 12 334-8464/8081 CAPE TOWN: TEL: +27 (0) 21 449-2672, FAX: +27 (0) 21 449-2067 E-MAIL: INFO@BLUETRAIN,CO,ZA

“Ever since my house burned down, I see the moon more clearly.” These words are attributed to photographer and filmmaker Gregory Colbert. Sometimes, in order to get a limitless perception of the moon and stars, we need to start over. There are moments in life, often born out of fire, that change our perception and call for an African solution that has never before been considered. Global icon of peace and reconciliation, Nelson Mandela, and events such as the 2010 FIFA World CupTM have helped to draw the world’s attention to this extraordinary continent. Let’s not forget our unique brand of ubuntu (humanity) and the healing properties of Mother Africa that contribute to the continent’s allure. These are all well known African draw cards that keep visitors coming to our shores, valleys and mountains. But right now, more than ever, there’s a need for a publication that is dedicated to undoing the vast misrepresentations that continue to surround travelling in Africa. According to the latest World Tourism Barometer published by the UN World Tourism Organization

02 | African Travel Market

(UNWTO) in 2013, international tourist arrivals increased by 5% and in Africa, specifically, it has grown by 6%. Furthermore, the New York Times published its list of 52 top places to visit and in the number one spot is none other than Cape Town, South Africa. Talk about a pat on the back, Mother of all Cities! Yet, when it comes to marketing Africa and South Africa, I felt like a stranger in my own country at the last Tourism Indaba held in Durban in May 2013. I consider myself a veteran in the industry, but I was overwhelmed and confused at Africa’s offering to a host of international tourism planners, buyers and sellers. It was a pick-and-choose, firingin-the-dark smorgasbord – a mass orchestra of out-of-sync exhibitors, each randomly playing their piece and keeping fingers crossed that they get chosen. When the Minister of Tourism, Marthinus van Schalkwyk, made an announcement to consolidate African Tourism Indaba 2014, my hope was for one cohesive tourism expo. Are all these expos really necessary? Do we really have budgets to participate in all of them? Can we integrate and have one in Durban and one in Cape Town? Only time and the inclusion of all role players in how we shape this vision will tell if we will succeed. What I have noticed in the past 17 years, however, was the information overload at the Indaba. Our guests received piles of brochures, flyers, oral tales, biltong, bags, pins and stickers, but nothing of true value. There was no authoritative, unified voice that says: “This is what Africa is all about, and here is our publication wherein we tell all our stories… if you miss it all and are about to recycle all those trees, this is the magazine you must keep!” It

consolidates and elevates Africa as a destination of choice; not just the recycled bits of Africa, but also the continent as a whole. It covers African culture, business travel, investment opportunities and leisure. What if Africa could abandon its silos and rise up as one powerful orchestra? What if there was a publication that could, at the turn of a page, welcome you inside a thatched homestead in the middle of an abandoned hill that is waiting all year to welcome you; then take you to unmatched pampering spas, exotic tastes, wonderful guesthouses and unrivalled safaris with faces, stories and encounters? What if international buyers could use this publication to better understand the offerings of Africa and tourists worldwide could get more than just a catchy destination name, but rather the feel, the sounds and, most importantly, the tale of that place? It gives us great pleasure to awaken you to a new dispensation whereby African tourism can finally be united! Kwenta Media is proud to launch this much-needed publication. Better still, I’m thrilled to welcome our editor, Denise Slabbert, to help birth, grow and nurture this publication. I’ve worked with her in the past and she stood head and shoulders above the rest as a travel writer of note! What a privilege to have her on board, and we are honoured that you, our invaluable reader, joins us today. It is time to rewrite the African story! We have a fresh, neverending story to tell.

Nawaal Mdluli-Motlekar Publisher: African Travel Market

Publisher Publishing Editor – Nawaal Mdluli-Motlekar publisher@kwentamedia.com Editorial Team Editor – Denise Slabbert Managing Editor – Tracy Maher Copy Editor – Nadia Khan editorial@kwentamedia.com

The Three Rondavels in the Blyde River Canyon, Mpumalanga, SA

Design Team Designers – Lelethu Tobi, Mmabatho Mahange Website Development/Online/ IT Administrator Lekeke Mahlo Production Production Manager – Tumi Mdluli Advertising & Marketing Sales Executive – Mavashini Naidoo Marketing/PR & Events Coordinator – Hlulani Masingi advertising@kwentamedia.com Operations & Finance Nuraan Motlekar accounts@kwentamedia.com Executive PA & Admin Coordinator Antoinett Botha

PHOTOGRAPHS: HEAVENLY TOURS/HOUGARD MALAN

Contributors Bridget Hilton-Barber, Elizabeth Badenhorst, Fatima Asmal, Jabulile Ngwenya, Jim Freeman, Kate Els, Kate Turkington, Keri Harvey, Michelle Colman Published by Kwenta Media Physical Address – Fourways View Office Park, Block C, corner Sunset Avenue and Sunrise Boulevard, Fourways Tel: +27 (0)11 467 5859 Fax: +27 (0)11 467 2808 Content Director CEO Kwenta Media – Nawaal Mdluli-Motlekar

African Travel Market (ATM) is 100% owned and published by Kwenta Media (Pty) Ltd. The publisher and editor reserve the right to alter copy and visual material as deemed necessary. Copyright by Kwenta Media (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. The Panorama Falls feeding into Bourke‘s Luck Potholes, Mpumalanga, SA

2014

ON THE COVER One&Only Cape Town

REGULARS 2

Publisher’s Note

Travel News

On Trend

City Beats

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Editor’s Letter

Cape Town is definitely the flavour of the month, every month. The Mother City has received numerous accolades and awards, including none other than making it into the Number 1 spot on the New York Times list of ’52 Places to Go in 2014’ . The cover image is of the bathroom in the Table Mountain Suite at the One&Only Cape Town. Visit capetown.oneandonlyresorts. com. Photograph © One&Only Cape Town.

2014

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FEATURES 18

In and Around Little Havana – Maputo and Southern Mozambique

Africa’s Proud Heritage – World Heritage Sites

The Meetings Business

Nights Wrapped in Luxury at Fabulous Hotels & Lodges

The Biblical Landscape of Magnificent Ethiopia

Colours & Contrasts of a Continent – A Photo Essay

Africa’s Finest – David Bristow’s Quest to Identify the Ultimate Green Lodge

Soulful Journeys

Madosini Manqineni – Queen of Xhosa Music

Rolling Thunder – Harley Davidsons in Mauritius

Eating African Style

My Ultimate Bucket List

Walking on Diamonds in Luderitz

No Sissies, please! Some of the Best adventures in Africa.

Akwaaba! Welcome to Ghana!

Great African Train Journeys

Life’s a Cruise with MSC

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African Airlines

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World-class African Spas

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Of Madness and Magic in Madagascar

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The Cradle of Humankind

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On and Off the Beaten Track of the Garden Route

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In the Footsteps of Nelson Mandela

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Top Golf Courses in Africa

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Africa is Now! The 2014 Design Indaba

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Into the Clouds in Search of Rwanda’s Mountain Gorillas

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African Travel Market | 05

Keeping up with the interesting new developments across Africa is no mean feat. We highlight a few, from hotel refurbishments and city cycling routes, to game trails and travel apps that are sure to draw attention. Joburg Is Set To Become A CycleFriendly City Not to be outdone by the Mother City, which often seems to be one step ahead, Johannesburg is aiming to become a cycle-friendly city. The city has started to map out safe cycling paths in a number of its suburbs. There is a new cycling route from Orlando to Noordgesig and a feasibility study is underway to create a 20km cycling route from Rosebank to Sandton. These new cycling paths are sure to have a positive effect on tourism in the city.

Marriot Set To Be The Largest Hotel Company In Africa

06 | African Travel Market

Safe cycling is becoming a priority in Johannesburg.

A New Chapter For The Westcliff With the Four Seasons hotel group taking over the iconic Johannesburg hotel, The Westcliff, a new chapter will begin. Once known as the ‘Pink Palace’ (the outer façade was painted pink), The Westcliff has prime position overlooking the forests of Johannesburg and Johannesburg Zoo in an area known as ‘The Parks’. For years, people have spoken about this as being the one hotel in a city where you can hear lions roar in the middle of the night. The hotel will reopen mid-2014 and the website promises that it will be ‘fully transformed with cool, contemporary style’. Visit www.fourseasons.com.

Legendary view from the Westcliff Hotel pool

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/DEPOSITPHOTOS

Marriot International recently acquired the 116-hotel Protea Hospitality Group, which means its presence in Africa and the Middle East will double. This could make it the largest hotel company in Africa, with 23 000 rooms and 160 hotels across the region. According to an article in Southern African Tourism Update (Now Media), Marriott said its pipeline of new hotels in the Middle East and Africa, including Protea’s pipeline, now has more than 65 hotels and 14 300 rooms, including more than 20 hotels and 3 000 rooms in sub-Saharan Africa. Marriott International also expects to recruit more than 5 500 staff over the next four years in order to meet the needs of its growing portfolio of hotels in Africa.

Joburg In Your Pocket

The Millennial Market – A Customer You Can’t Afford To Ignore

Joburg in Your Pocket (JYP) is a new city guide to one of Africa’s most exciting cities and is part of the In Your Pocket series. Editor Laurice Taitz says, “It has vital information on how to get around, safety, where to stay, what to see and do, what to buy, and the best places to eat out.“ The guide really has the insider’s track into the city and the content is updated regularly online and refreshed for each print edition. For more information, visit www.inyourpocket. com/southafrica/johannesburg.

The Drostdy Hotel Joins Newmark Newmark Hotels, Reserves & Lodges has recently added the Drostdy Hotel in Graaff-Reinet, Eastern Cape to their portfolio. The historic property was originally built by French architect, Louis Thibault, as a magistrate’s office, and opened as a hotel in 1878. Today it’s a popular choice for travellers to the Eastern and Western Cape. Visit www. newmark.com.

Drostdy Hotel

An article by CNN titled ‘Wi-Fi Instagram walls and turntables: How hotels are courting millennials’, says that young adult travellers aren’t interested in the mini-bar or room service, but they are sure to moan about the fact that there’s no free Wi-Fi. The article says that the hotel industry needs to reinvent itself to keep up with the millennial traveller. For the new traveller, needs are different: they don’t want privacy and personal space, they want a community space or a zone to hang out. And if you haven’t got fast, free Wi-Fi, you’re dead in the water. Local TV won’t do it either – these travellers want their own movies and music, and hotels need to facilitate these needs. Oh, and they want good coffee, a gym and recognisable brands, too. Visit www.cnn.com.

Young adult travellers seek free Wi-Fi hotspots.

Fab Apps The Packing Pro App, available from Apple’s iTunes App Store, is a fantastic app for those who need to be more organised when it comes to packing. You can use the app to create packing lists for your trip, as well as try out its packing tips and suggestions.

African Travel Market | 07

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Visit our online store at www.dorefashion.co.za

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M O R E

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Geigerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Camp has opened in Motswari Private Game Reserve Superbly located and surrounded by the Timbavati Nature Reserve and bordering the Kruger National Park, Geigerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Camp reopened in February after a complete refurbishment. Offering a classic safari experience combined with modern convenience and an emphasis on authenticity crafted over years of commitment to the photographic safari industry, this intimate camp will soon be a destination of choice for many travellers to Africa. For more information, visit the Newmark Hotels website at www. newmarkhotels.com. Geiger's Camp in Motswari Private Game Reserve

The Pafuri Walking Trail offers pristine routes between April and October in the private Makuleke Concession in the northern Kruger National Park. The three-night, four-day trail takes place in the remote north of the Kruger amid a pristine landscape rich in biodiversity and wildlife. Skilled guides, who are only happy to impart their knowledge and wisdom, lead the Pafuri Walking Trail. For information, contact Wilderness Safaris on +27 (011)807 1800 or visit www.wilderness-safaris.com.

AIRLINE NEWS Kulula and Kenya Airways in bed The two airlines have signed a code-share deal connecting their networks. The new partnership will benefit clients and give them more options when travelling from OR Thambo International Airport. For more information, visit www.kulula. com or www.kenya-airways.com.

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Taking to the skies is opening Africa to the rest of the world, as the continent proudly boasts the first black female Boeing 747 captain in the world.

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/ITUNES/WWW.SOUTHAFRICA.TO

Walking On The Wild Side

Captain Irene Koki Mutungi, Kenya Airways

Kenya Airways celebrates first black female Boeing 787 Captain in the World Kenya Airwaysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Captain, Irene Koki Mutungi, was the first and only female pilot at Kenya Airways for about six years and she has risen steadily through the ranks, having previously been the First Officer of the 767-300 ER, the second largest aircraft in the Kenya Airways fleet, and recently, the first female Kenya Airways Captain of a Boeing 767-300. Captain Mutungiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest first is indeed cause for celebration, as she becomes the first black female Boeing 787 Captain in the world.

Fastjet does the tango with Proflight Zambia. Fastjet has signed an agreement with Proflight Zambia allowing passengers to book flights for both carriers on a single ticket. Fastjet will solely service the route between Dar es Salaam and Lusaka, as well as Tanzanian domestic routes from Dar es Salaam, while Proflight will service its existing domestic routes in Zambia, and its route to Lilongwe in Malawi, from Lusaka. According to the two carriers, the alliance will let them both expand and also establish Lusaka as a regional aviation hub. African Travel Market | 11

Africa is a hive of creativity when it comes to arts, crafts, fashion and jewellery.

The following colourful African works of art need to make it into your travel bags on your next shopping spree!  Wire art – we do wire art particularly well. In fact, you’ll find a creative artist with a wealth of wire goods on offer on most pavements in Johannesburg. Multi-coloured giraffes might just take your fancy.  African masks are a favourite of travellers to the continent, and there are a number of places to go shopping for these, including Art Africa in Johannesburg and Knysna, and the Rosebank African Market.  Ethiopian crosses are beautiful works of art, and are also called Abyssinian crosses or Coptic crosses – they symbolise Christianity and the interwoven lines are said to symbolise eternity.  African fabrics – from Kente cloth in Ghana, to Shweshwe garb in South Africa, buying beautiful textiles is a must, and you’ll find these mainly at markets. It’s also interesting to note that well-known African designers continue Work of art for sale at Art Africa, Parkview Johannesburg

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/DYNAMICAFRICA

Inside Art Africa

Mary Sibande: The Purple Shall Govern

taking. Visit them on Facebook at www.facebook.com/SilverFig.  For wonderful pottery and sculpture, try the Venda artists deep in Limpopo province, which is where some of South Africa’s most celebrated artists hail from. A company called Open Africa runs tours to the area, visit www. openafrica.org  You can’t visit South Africa without taking home some delicious wine – in fact, why not choose our very own varietal, Pinotage. There are numerous wine estates that will be only too happy to ship delicious wines to you. For information on what is available, visit the Wines of South Africa website at www.wosa.co.za.

to add a contemporary note to age-old patterns and traditional lines.  Something out of nothing: Africans are an inventive bunch and you’ll find gorgeous artworks made out of trash. Whether it’s daisies made out of old tin cans or a sunflower made from plastic straws, it’s all about reinvention.  For jewellery, you can’t go wrong with the guys at Shimansky. They also run the Shimansky Diamond Museum at The Waterfront in Cape Town. Take a tour if you have a thing for diamonds. Other famous names, such as Charles Greig, Schwartz, Arthur Kaplan and many others, also do us proud. Visit www. capetowndiamondmuseum.org/.  On the contemporary jewellery scene, Kirsten Goss continues to wow with her pretty pieces. From Lagos to Johannesburg to London and beyond – she brings you the best-selling ‘lifesaver’ pendant to elegant earrings and the gorgeous Lily Pad ring (with green amethyst) www.kirstengoss.co.za/.  Silver Fig Jewellery – gorgeous ‘Big Five’ wildlife pendants and bracelets in pretty silver are yours for the

CALLING ALL DEDICATED FOLLOWERS OF FASHION Fashion is a state of mind and in Africa it is all about celebrating where we are geographically. If you know a bit about dreads and threads then you won’t want to miss the annual Mercedes-Benz Africa Fashion Week that takes place in South Africa every year. Names like Laurence Airline, Taibo Bacar and, of course, our local fashion superhero, David Tlale, all show off their best works. Last year, Alek Wek came to visit and was bowled away by the creativity of the designers. For more information on the various fashion weeks held in South Africa, visit www.afi.za.com. Don’t Miss: MOAD In Maboneng, you’ll find the very fascinating Museum of African Design – a great place to explore the creativity of local designers. MOAD is definitely a spot to visit while in Joburg. And afterwards you can hang out in one of Johannesburg’s hippest spots – visit the restaurants, the art galleries and the bars in this inner-city hub of entertainment and creativity. Visit www.maboneng.co.za.

EVENTS AND HAPPENINGS Events diary of happenings that you won’t want to miss: 28th April to 4th May You may have missed AfrikaBurn again this year, but no worries – you can make plans to do it next year. This festival is the local version of the Burning Man Festival in the USA, and takes place in the Tankwa Karoo National Park. It’s all about expressing creativity (and being kind to the environment) with incredible art installations appearing in the desert, seemingly overnight. The ‘Big Burn’ is the highlight of the event. Visit www.afrikaburn.com/. Until 7th June Mary Sibande: The Purple Shall Govern Whatever you do, don’t miss this exhibition of work by Standard Bank Young Artist Award Winner for 2014. The exhibition takes place at the Standard Bank Gallery until the June 7th, 2014. This exhibition takes Sophie, the elaborately costumed figure for which Sibande is known, to a new level. Visit www. standardbankarts.co.za. 24th to 28th May Saint Louis Jazz Festival, Senegal The festival of a lifetime, don’t miss this music festival that has been going since the early 90s. It’s an explosion of colour and creativity and some of Africa’s finest artists will be performing. A great excuse to go on holiday in Senegal. Visit www. saintlouisjazz.org. 30th May to 1st June Bushfire Festival in Swaziland This festival takes place at the House of Fire entertainment venue and is a celebration of music, poetry, theatre, performance and more. Artists from Europe and Africa share a stage and it’s all about chilling out and getting down. Visit www.bush-fire.com. 13th to 21st June: The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music takes place in Morocco every June. The aim of this festival is to harness the arts and spirituality in the service of human and social development and the relationship between people and cultures. This year’s theme is ‘Journey of Cultures’.

Tiffany Blazer – R599 Melanie Long Sleeve Dress – R599 Jessica Bow Detailed Legging – R299

www.polo.co.za

e – R349 rew Neck Te 99 Sebestian C – t roy Shir R4 Jayden Cordu 99 R5 – Dean Denim

Tristan Golfer – R299 Dean Jean: Dark Wash – R599

Highlights of some of Africa’s great cities and what to do when you get there! SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE IN CAIRO

EAT: Visit Cairo’s first hipster Egyptian restaurant, where you can try out traditional dishes. La Bodega is fantastic for Mediterraneaninspired cuisine and is much liked by trendy types. Zooba is another popular spot for contemporary interpretations or traditional Egyptian dishes.

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/DEPOSITPHOTOS

SHOP: Khan al-Khalili Bazaar offers the shopping experience of a lifetime. Make sure you have plenty of baksheesh at hand as you weave your way between fabrics, leather jackets, copperware, toy camels and pushy merchants.

Neighbourgoods Market, Braamfontein

SLEEP: Lonely Planet’s guide to Africa advises Pension Roma for those on a budget, and the Cairo Marriot Hotel for those at the other end of the financial scale. For a little art deco, try Grand Hotel, or the comfy Hotel Longchamps. You’ll need to book in advance. SEE: Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza; Egyptian Museum; Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Maboneng

SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE IN JOHANNESBURG SHOP: The growing amount of pubs and clubs in Braamfontein are worth looking into, and Saturday mornings are made to visit the Neighbourgoods Market. Shopping for African-inspired goods is easy – try any one of the markets, particularly the well-known muti market. The Rosebank African Market is also a good option, or you could go the genteel route and visit Art Africa in the suburbs for beautiful wares from all over the country.

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EAT: The Maboneng Precinct is the place to see and be seen. Enjoy biltong sushi at The Blackanese restaurant. SLEEP: Try the Bannister Hotel in Braamfontein – the heart of where it’s all happening. You could also try The Peech Hotel in Melrose – it has just been renovated, is super-stylish and is one of Jozi’s greenest hotels. SEE: Soweto; the Apartheid Museum; Constitution Hill; Museum Africa

The Peech Boutique Hotel Gardens

SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE IN LAGOS

Nairobi

SHOP: The markets, including the Balogun Market, Lekki Market and Jankara Market for textiles, arts and crafts, are perfect for the browser.

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/DEPOSITPHOTOS

EAT: The Jazz Hole doubles as a bookshop, café and record store; the food is good and the vibe is great. You’ll find good restaurants in Ikoyi and Victoria Island. Chophouses are located on Broad Street and Campbell Street (Lagos Island) for cheaper fare. SLEEP: The Wheatbaker boutique hotel is a good choice, or you could try Bogobiri House, also a boutique hotel. The Hotel Victoria Palace on Victoria Island and the Peerage Retreat are excellent value for money options. SEE: Kalakuta Republic Museum; Nike Art Gallery; Freedom Park

SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE IN MARRAKECH SHOP: A veritable shopper’s heaven with souks and markets around every corner. Visit Ensemble Artisanal in the Ville Nouvelle for a wide array of local merchandise. Then there is the Cooperative Artisanale Femmes de Marrakech, where you can buy linen and textiles. EAT: Lonely Planet Africa advises eating at the food stalls on Djemaa el-Fna, if you’re adventurous when it comes to eating that is. Try the tagine at Terrasse des epices with a view of the world below or, for an upmarket meal, try Le Salama. Earth Café is a great bet for vegetarians and other hungry people. SLEEP: Hotel Central Palace is a good option and has 40 rooms, or you could opt for Riad Nejma Lounge, an arty spot with temperamental showers. Jnane Mogador is an authentic 19th-Century building with all the luxury trimmings. SEE: The markets at Djemaa elFna; the Koutoubia Mosque; Youssef Mosque and the Saadian Tombs.

SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE IN NAIROBI SHOP: Definitely visit the Maasai Market, the City Market and the Spinners Web Market. EAT: The famous Carnivore is a must if you haven’t been before, although give it a miss if you are a vegetarian. The Nairobi Java House has some of the best coffee and great meals, and the Thorn Tree Café is a legend in its lifetime. SLEEP: Nairobi Serena Hotel offers world-class facilities and safari-inspired style. The Palacina is Kenya’s ‘first genuine boutique hotel’, according to Lonely Planet. There is also the Norfolk Hotel (built in 1904), Upper Hill Country Lodge and the Milimani Backpackers & Safari Centre. SEE: Nairobi National Park; National Museum; Karen Blixen Museum; Giraffe Centre

MUST-READ! The Lonely Planet Guide to Africa is essential reading for any tourist to the continent. Visit www. lonelyplanet.com.

Colourful slippers at a Moroccan souk.

African Travel Market | 17

Photographs: Bridget Hilton-Barber

Bridget Hilton-Barber, gives us the inside track on Mozambique from her latest book The Travel Guide to Maputo and Southern Mozambique.

Perfect sunset, Lagoa Poelela

here’s a skip in the step of Maputo, a smile on its face, a frivolous wave in its palm trees. In the past 10 years, the city has had remarkable growth and there’s been a cultural renaissance of delicious proportions. Modern Maputo is a heady mix of African and Portuguese, along with French, Arab and Oriental influences. It’s been dubbed Little Havana because of its retro charm and tropical attitude. The streets are still named after revolutionaries, the city’s many art deco and Marxist buildings are faded but glorious, and there has been an explosion of galleries, bars, bistros, restaurants, clubs, coffee shops and street culture. Here’s a list of the coolest things to do in and around Maputo and environs.

AN HISTORIC RAMBLE Take a ramble through historic Maputo to get a feel of the old baixa or original downtown. Independence Square or Praça de Independencia as its known in Portuguese is a massive neo-classical number celebrating the end of Portuguese colonialism. Nearby you can see the giant statue of the country's first president, Samora Machel, the Roman Catholic cathedral, and the Jardim Tunduru botanical gardens that were designed by Thomas Honney in 1855. In need of some TLC, they’re still a green haven for tourists and assorted lovers, students and office workers. The nearby Franco Mozambicano cultural centre is a hip space in an historic Victorian building with a gallery, coffee shop and bistro. Outside in the garden are sculptures made out of old guns, bullets and weapons through an innovative weapons-to-art programme.

20 | African Travel Market

Boat on the beach, Catembe

COMMIT PRAWNICIDE Eating prawns is an excellent reason to visit Maputo and it isn’t complete without attempting to commit prawnicide – at least once! Try the fabulous Marisqueira Sagres, a convivial, family-friendly Portuguese restaurant on the beachfront with maritime kitsch and good prawn platters with a traditional Portuguese twist of spicy chouriço sausages or trinchado, strips of beef. At the

popular Zambi Restaurant, you can take the country’s signature dish to its logical conclusion and go for the Prawns Laurentina – prawns cooked in beer in an original ‘secret recipe’. Zambi’s is an upbeat spot with a shaded terrace in a building designed by avant-garde Portuguese architect Pancho Guedes in the 50s. For fine dining prawnicide, head for Southern Sun’s Bayview restaurant, an elegant North African spot with

and bistros, markets, shebeens, restaurants and street culture. People gather on the ocean-facing sidewalk to listen to music, drink wine, party, and watch Afro-Catholic weddings take place on the beach. The mosaic murals at the southern end are a city landmark, made by Mozambican artist Naguib, who was born in Tete and trained in Lisbon and Cologne. Cruise the Marginal on a Sunday for a carnival atmosphere.

HEAD FOR THE ISLANDS

Historic cannon, Fortaleza

Take a two-hour boat ride to the small, semi-tropical, laid-back island of Inhaca some 40km offshore and its uninhabited sister island, Portuguese Island. Both islands are set in a marine reserve famed for its gorgeous coral reefs, great diving and birding, and its marine research centre. You can walk between Inhaca and Portugueuse Island, 3km northwest at low tide. Think golden beaches, mangroves and ocean. The Santa Maria Channel that separates the island of Inhaca from the continent has violent currents that they call Portões do Diabo (the devil’s gates). Visit www.danatours.net.

HOP ON THE FERRY, JERRY! Street scene: Inhambane

doors opening out on ocean views, and excellent food and wines.

HOP ON AND OFF The Maputo Express is a brightlycoloured hop on, hop off train ride that shows you ’the history, the architecture, the culture and cuisine’. Its 10-stop ride through the city takes you to the railway station, the Mercado central, and the natural history museum. You

get on and off and decide how long you want to stay at each stop. You’ll be accompanied by a friendly local guide. They also offer a Maputo Night Safari. Visit www. mozambiquecitytours.com.

CRUISE THE MARGINAL Known simply as ‘The Marginal’, this 12km long palm-lined avenue, Avenida Marginal, is Maputo’s most famous beach road – with bars

Take a day trip to Catembe, a spit of land jutting out to sea, with lovely views of the Maputo skyline. From the harbour, you can either take a passenger ferry or drive your car aboard the big one. Catembe was a popular weekend spot for the Portuguese rich in the colonial days and today’s shabby, run-down and totally charming houses tell of a decadent Afro-Mediterranean past. Head for lunch at the Catembe Gallery Inn, an interesting hotel with good outdoor decks, a small museum and a fabulous bar. Visit www.catembe.net. African Travel Market | 21

ADMIRE THE CFM RAILWAY STATION Built in 1910, Maputo’s Caminho de Ferro de Moçambique (CFM) was voted by Newsweek as one of the 10 most beautiful train stations in the world. It’s all peppermint green and marble with glorious Victorian arches and pillars, and a wrought-iron roof dome that was designed in 1910 by none other than Gustav Eiffel. Inside the station building are two ancient steam engines and, best of all, is the little jazz bar Kapfumo, which has live music and a cool crowd.

VISIT THE ELEPHANTS For a bush adventure close to the city, head for the Maputo Special Reserve, formerly the Maputo Elephant Reserve. A gorgeous stretch of bush running along an isolated coastline with moody mangrove swamps in the north, and the rest a combination of high-grassland thorny thickets, dune scrub and acacia woodlands. The reserve was established in 1960. Along its western extent is the ancient Futi channel, a migratory path for herds of elephants. There are three saltwater lakes: Chinguti, Maundo and Piti, with over 300 bird species, and plenty of leatherback turtles. Visit www.danatours.net.

BOOGIE THE NIGHT AWAY Maputo has a lively nightlife that’s a delicious blend of Afro-Mediterranean flavours and rhythms. Think New Orleans style jazz bars, trendy Afro-chic cocktail spots, African shebeens, and Portuguese pubs. Try Dolce Vita on Julius Nyerere for cool cocktails, Kapfumo bar at the CFM station for good jazz, Gil Vicente for live music and Núcleo D’Artes for reggae. The undisputed crown jewel of dancing is Coconuts, which has several dance floors, boasts music stars from all over Africa, countless bars and is a glorious living catwalk. Go late!

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Maputo skyline

Natural History Museum

Paindane Bay

ACCOMMODATION INFORMATION  In Maputo, check out Pensao Martins, a good budget spot with interesting people, good spaces and a swimming pool and restaurant. Visit www.backpack.co.za. You can also head for Fatima’s Backpackers, where they say every backpacker is a soul maker. There’s a cool bar here, and Fatima’s people are friendly with good advice. Visit www. mozambiquebackpackers.com  Complexo Palmeras in Bilene, is an upbeat and busy beach spot with small self-catering chalets and also a spacious barrestaurant with good beach views and beach access. Find them on www.mozambiqueaccommodation. co.za.  In Paindane, stay at Pleasure Bay, a self-catering resort with amazing beaches and parties. Visit www. pleasurebay.net.  Lagoa Poelela offers selfcatering chalets on the lake. E-mail welmanriaan@gmail.com or visit www.mozambiquehappenings. com.  In Inhambane the best place to stay is Pensão Pachiça, which is a backpacker spot with clean rooms, a restaurantbar serving local food and pizzas. Visit www.mozambique accommodation.co.za.  Fatima’s Nest in Tofo Beach is the soul sister of Fatima’s Backpackers in Maputo, and has similarly laidback vibes, good food and is right on the beach; also within easy walking distance of all the cool spots in the town. Visit www. mozambiquebackpackers.com.

Fresh clams

HEAD FOR BED One of the oldest in the city, Hotel Cardoso has great views and historical drama. The Cardoso was the headquarters of Renamo in the run-up to the 1994 elections, and their fourth floor famously suffered damage from an RPG [rocket-propelled grenade] when talks between Frelimo and Renamo broke down. The Cardoso has a busy, friendly vibe and a good restaurant. Visit www.hotelcardoso.co.mz. Or try the soulful B&B Mozaika, a homely sanctuary in the downtown bustle. Mozaika has a swimming pool and good lounging spots in a luscious garden with a big fat mango tree. The rooms are artistic, with African, Asian and South American touches. Visit www. mozaika.co.mz. Bridget Hilton-Barber is a freelance writer and editor, and author of eight books. She is the former editor of Sawubona magazine and travel correspondent for Radio 702, and is passionate about the South African Lowveld and the ancient elephant highway that leads to the Mozambique coast. * The Travel Guide to Maputo and Southern Mozambique is published by Penguin Books SA. Order a copy via www.penguinbooks.co.za or www.kalahari.net. For a signed copy, e-mail hiltonbarberbridget@gmail.com.

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Holy man of Lalibela, Ethiopia

A PROUD Africa’s World Heritage Sites cover a wide spectrum of natural and cultural wonders – and are definitely worth a place on anyone’s travel bucket list. frica is blessed with an enviable and diverse choice of World Heritage Sites, ranging from the pyramids and rock-hewn churches of Egypt and Ethiopia, to natural phenomena such as the great herbivore migrations across the Serengeti’s savannah, the life-giving force of Lake Malawi and living history with the Nama people of the southwest. Here is an edited shortlist of sights so majestic that they should be taken in at least once in a lifetime.

PHOTOGRAPH: DARLING LAMA PRODUCITONS

FORTS AND CASTLES – GHANA The coastline of Ghana has the highest concentration of Europeanbuilt forts and castles on the African continent. There are 29 in total, some more than 500 years old. They were built to serve the colonial powers of the day that used these structures to protect their trading interests – mainly gold and slaves. The two most prominent castles open to the public are at Cape Coast and Elmina; they have undergone extensive renovations and offer some

excellent displays. Well-informed guides are available to explain the context of these structures and their individual histories. Elmina overlooks a busy local fishing port with colourful canoes, while Cape Coast Castle stands on the site of what was once a Swedish fort built of wood.

LAKE MALAWI Lake Malawi contains the largest number of fish species of any lake in the world – 3 000 in total. Situated at the southern end of East Africa’s Great Rift Valley – formed by the fracturing of the African tectonic plate – Lake Malawi offers unique fish species, deep clear waters and varied habitats. The lake is large enough that a boat caught in bad weather would be hard-pressed to see land as it is 580km long and 75km wide. What makes the lake unique is not only the five fish species that are found only here, but the explosiveness with which its fish species develop. This phenomenon is rivalled only by the numerous finch species of the Galapagos Islands off Chile.

PHOTOGRAPH: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS The ‘Smoke that Thunders’ – the Victoria Falls in full flow

THE VICTORIA FALLS – ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA The Victoria Falls in full flow produces the largest sheet of falling water in the world and is almost twice as high as North America’s Niagara Falls. The falls are formed by the Zambezi River plunging over a fissure in the surrounding basalt plateau into a single gorge and then splintering off into a number of others. Romantically called ‘the Smoke that Thunders’ by the local Mosioa-Tunya people, the first European to see it was the Scottish explorer David Livingstone in 1855. The river and the falls form the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia and are normally in flood from February till May, when a spectacular mist cloud surrounds the whole area. A fly-over, or sundowner river cruise are an unforgettable must-do on any traveller’s itinerary.

MEMPHIS NECROPOLIS AND THE PYRAMIDS – EGYPT The world-famous Egyptian pyramids are the only surviving structures of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Near Saqqara – home to the world’s earliest stone monument – the ancient capital of Memphis was built in 3100BC where the Nile Delta meets the river valley, symbolically uniting Upper and Lower Egypt. Today, in the vicinity of ancient Memphis (a village now) pyramids still survive. However, four separate groups of pyramids form part of the World Heritage Site. They are spread out in the desert over 30km along the west bank of the river Nile. The pyramids at Giza with the adjacent Sphinx are instantly recognisable but further south at Abu Sir, Saqqara and Dahshur there are a further 35 pyramids.

RICHTERSVELD CULTURAL LANDSCAPE – SOUTH AFRICA In South Africa’s Northern Cape province, along the Orange River that forms the border with Namibia, lies a rugged, semi-desert area called the Richtersveld. Here living and ancient history can be observed, both in man’s activities and the botanical landscape. Spectacular lava-formed mountains, rock art left behind by stone-age people, 30% of all South Africa’s succulent plant species and various iconic quiver trees are found here. Direct descendants of the country’s original Khoi-Khoi people – the Nama – migrate through this area with their livestock, build collapsible homes with reed mats and make a living where few dare to tread. A visit to the immense Ai-Ais/ Richtersveld Transfrontier Park with its jaw-dropping Fish River Canyon that extends into Namibia is recommended.

RWENZORI MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK – UGANDA These are unique because its mountains are not lava formed. They are steep, rugged and wet, and came about because of the earth’s crust thrusting up. What sets the park apart is its sheer visual beauty, reminiscent of an alpine landscape with high peaks, glaciers, snowfields and breathtaking lakes. The park covers most of the centre and eastern half of the Rwenzori mountain range, while the other side forms part of the DRC’s Virunga National Park. It includes Africa’s third, fourth and fifth highest mountain peaks and protects many rare, endemic African Travel Market | 27

and endangered species, and the richest mountain flora in Africa – a very unusual cloud forest of giant heathers, groundsels and lobelias draped in mosses.

THE ROCK-HEWN CHURCHES OF LALIBELA – ETHIOPIA The combination of man’s ingenuity and reverence produced the astonishing rock-hewn churches of Lalibela in northern Ethiopia that date back to the 13th Century. Eleven churches, each one carved out of mainly solid rock, stand free in individual cavernous holes. To access these architectural wonders people descend through a steep channel cut into the rock, or pass through a tunnel from a neighbouring church. They are attributed to the 13th Century. King Lalibela and demonstrate an extraordinary tenacity and religious fervour plus an eye for detail, symbolism, design and decoration. The churches function to this day and are places of pilgrimage for many Ethiopians. Ancient manuscripts and religious art are guarded within these structures by priests who maintain tradition.

Rock-hewn churches of Lalibela in northern Ethiopia dating back to the 13th Century

In the northeast of Tanzania where it borders Kenya, one of the world’s most spectacular wildlife sights occur – the annual migration of vast herds of herbivores in search of grazing, between Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park with its endless plains and the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. Where wildebeests, zebras and antelope go, predators like lion, cheetah, leopard and hyena follow and crocodiles lie in ambush; these confrontations produce

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PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK – TANZANIA

naturally occurring theatre of the most dramatic kind twice a year – from May through August and again in November. The Serengeti is home to Africa’s Big Five – rhino, elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard. Thanks to the abundance of prey, over 3 000 lion and 1 000 leopard inhabit this vast ecosystem.

The Great Migration of herds of wildebeest across the Serengetti Plains of Kenya

STERKFONTEIN CAVES AND MAROPENG – SOUTH AFRICA About thirty minutes northwest of the busy metropolis that is Johannesburg, near the village of Muldersdrift, lies a valley called The Cradle of Humankind, where fossil finds indicate man has been active for more than three million years. In the valley’s Sterkfontein Caves and surrounds, archaeological excavations have uncovered ancient hominid finds, among which Mrs Ples and Little Foot, indicating that this is where man’s journey began – hence the name Cradle of Mankind. Seven kilometres north of the caves, the well-equipped Maropeng Visitors Centre provides a fascinating insight into the area’s rich paleontological heritage. The nearby Cradle Game Reserve houses a dozen antelope species and rare raptors such as the martial and black eagle. by Denise Slabbert For more details on Africa’s unique World Heritage sites, visit http://whc.unesco.org.

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THE MEETINGS

The meetings business is growing in leaps and bounds, as the world cottons on to the fact that Africa offers a unique and exciting destination, and a growing world-class infrastructure. lobal business events across Africa are growing in popularity as more and more conference and event organisers look to satisfy a demand for unique destinations for their clients. A variety of landscapes, economic powerhouses for capital cities and an unconventional way of doing business make Africa an attractive destination for business

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events and incentives alike. “The collaborative spirit and track record of good service and great hospitality from African venues can be attributed to the fact that more and more meeting planners are choosing African cities to host their events,” says Amanda Kotze-Nhlapo, executive manager at the South African National Convention Bureau (SANCB). Business-events exhibition

Meetings Africa 2014, held in Johannesburg, impressed upon its delegates that, with seven of the world’s fastest-growing economies, infrastructure development occurring at a rapid pace and an expanding track record of successful event hosting, Africa has been coined ‘the world’s business event destination of the future’. The SANCB is encouraging the South African business-events

PHOTOGRAPH: CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE

BUSINESS

The Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC)

sector, as well as its African partners, to ‘Rise With Us’ – a call to the industry for companies to work together to help realise Africa’s potential as a global business-event destination. “In this very competitive industry, where new players enter the market all the time, we need to streamline our efforts, work smarter, and work harder to stay ahead. ‘Rise With Us’ gives us the muscle to do exactly

this,” says Kotze-Nhlapo. In addition to a strong South African representation at this year’s Meetings Africa, 23 other African countries were present. A contingent of about 150 international buyers reinforced the message that the world is ready to do business with Africa and, more important, that Africa is ready to increase its offering to the global meetings industry. Record highs being achieved

by convention centres across the continent are a further indication that the business-events industry is alive and well in Africa. The Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) reported its highest net profit to date in 2013, after only a decade of operations. In its latest country ranking, the International Congress and Convention Association (ICCA) reports South Africa, Kenya and Morocco African Travel Market | 31

Kenyatta International Convention Centre

The Durban International Convention Centre (ICC)

as the African countries that held the largest numbers of international meetings. The associationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest report, for 2002-2011, says Africa has seen a rise in the number of meetings over the previous decade, while other regions are pegged as stable or showing only a slow increase in numbers. Countries across Africa are taking heed of these results and have begun forming convention bureaus to bid on business events and ease

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the process of organising large-scale events in Africa. The Kenyatta International Convention Centre, the state corporation mandated to spearhead conference tourism in Kenya through the Ministry of Tourism, has celebrated its wins in recent years by moving up the ICCA rankings and increasing the number of business events held in the country. Former Ambassador Ruth Solitei

from the Kenyan Ministry of Tourism says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;This performance demonstrates that conference tourism in the country continues to grow. It justifies the need for more convention/conference facilities of international standards in every countty, more accommodation and bed capacity, and ideal transport and communication infrastructure to raise the attractiveness and capacity of the destination.â&#x20AC;? With the growth in business

PHOTOGRAPHS: CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE/DURBAN CONVENTION CENTRE/JORGE LASCAR

The Durban International Convention Centre (ICC)

travel and events in Africa, countries with economies on the rise have also invested in infrastructure and welcomed international investment from hospitality brands that will lift awareness of their destinations. Euromonitor International picks Nigeria as an example of this. An excerpt from a report on the state of the country’s tourism sector says: “The nation’s booming economy, as well as efforts by the government to develop a

competitive travel and tourism industry, has been attracting Western hotel giants to establish operations in the country. Continuous expansion of the business environment in Nigeria will help to stimulate economic growth and is expected to further improve hotel growth as well as boost occupancy rates in the future.” It’s clear that Africa is establishing itself as the business-events destination of the future with its

development of convention bureaus, infrastructure projects and welcoming spirit. “These are exciting times. It’s the very best time to work in business events in Africa. The future is really incredibly ripe with opportunity. There has never been a better time for Africans to advance Africa together. And there has never been a better time for the world to rise with us,” says Kotze-Nhlapo. by Kate Els African Travel Market | 33

NIGHTS WRAPPED

IN LUXURY

PHOTOGRAPH: SINGITA CASTLETON

From luxury lodges to stylish city abodes, we take a look at a few designer retreats where you can lay your weary head for the night.

Singita Castleton, Sabi Sand Reserve

CHALKLEY TREEHOUSE, Lion Sands Private Game Reserve Lion Sands Game Reserve is situated in the Sabi Sand Reserve and when it comes to accommodation options, you can choose from River Lodge, Tinga Lodge, Narina Lodge, Ivory Lodge or Lion Sands 1933 Lodge. Each lodge has its own design language, but attention to detail and inspired aesthetics are part of the deal. Wherever possible, nature is given pride of place – and gorgeous vistas surprise and delight. Guests staying at any of the lodges in Lion Sands Private Game Reserve (Sabi Sand Reserve) in Mpumalanga have the unique opportunity of a romantic evening picnic in a tree house. Chalkley Treehouse is built around a magnificent 300-year-old Leadwood tree and guests who have booked in for the night can enjoy a delicious picnic while listening to the sounds of nature and drinking in bushveld views that go on for miles. The Lion Sands chefs will create a delectable feast from the menu of the day – or according to guests’ needs – using the finest local produce accompanied by fine wines, or anything else that guests would like to drink. The sunsets from the treehouse bring shivers to the spine, and this luxury bush bedroom is certainly

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something to write home about. Visit www.lionsands.com. ONE&ONLY, Cape Town The One&Only Cape Town has spectacular written all over it. As one walks into the main lobby you come face to face with an incredible view of Table Mountain through the floor-toceiling windows. That’s the start of it all, and it only gets better from there. The same visual language is on offer from your hotel room as the gorgeous views of the Mother City welcome you. When it comes to rooms, you can choose the Marina Rise option with a more than comfortable king-size bed and a vast bathroom sporting an oversized bath, ‘rain shower’ and double vanity – of course the views of Table Mountain and Signal Hill just add to the opulent feel. The Island Rooms and Suites are on their own exclusive island in the heart of the waterway and the suites have private balconies. There is so much to enjoy at this resort city hotel, from the gorgeous spa on its very own island offering top choice treatments, to dining at Nobu or Reuben’s, chatting to the friendly staff and going for a cocktail at The Vista Bar. One&Only Cape Town redefines style without being stuffy, and the result is a ‘home away from home’ feel in unadulterated luxury. Visit www. capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com. MAJEKA HOUSE, Stellenbosch South African designer Etienne Hanekom has created the perfect boutique hotel with a beautiful contemporary look with luxurious fabrics and inspired interiors. There are layers to the design of Majeka House, and although the emphasis is on being super-stylish with a vast array of artworks, the homely feel is evident throughout. Start off with cocktails at the

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJEKA HOUSE

here’s nothing quite like fluffy gowns behind the bathroom door, a chocolate on the pillow and a personal note from the GM to make you feel at home. Whether you’re staying at a luxury urban hotel or a small lodge tucked away in the Timbavati, it’s always about the little extras. Here is our ensemble of some pretty fine establishments, where your name is remembered and your Eggs Benedict arrives just the way you like them.

Majeka House, Stellenbosch, South Africa

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KASBAH TAMADOT, Morocco Okay, so everything Richard Branson touches does turn to gold. And that’s evident when it comes to visiting the Kasbah Tamadot hideaway in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. Branson bought the hotel after first seeing it on one of his hotair ballooning expeditions. The establishment is located in Asni, a small village in the Atlas Mountains inhabited by the Berber people. There are 27 bedrooms and suites – including nine luxury Berber Tents – if you’re really splashing out, go for the tents with private plunge pools. The rooms, tents and suites are all fitted with gorgeous antiques collected by the previous owner, and no expense has been spared. There are spa treatments on offer – in a traditional Moroccan hammam – as well as tennis, table tennis, a gym and the option of going on walks or heading off into the mountains on a mule, if you are so inclined. Visit www.kasbahtamadot.virgin.com.

was placed on its Gold Standard List for 2013. This Tanzanian hotel has a mix of colonial attitude and contemporary African style – with French windows allowing views of the ocean. The place is East African chic and is boutique in every sense, with just eight suites on offer. Rooms are a combination of shades of white and African-inspired art and there is a lovely pool area where one can sip G&Ts until the sun goes down. The feel is family-orientated and the hustle and bustle of this exciting city is nearby. For tranquillity and downtime, there are beautiful gardens and relaxation areas. The Oyster Bay feels like your own private villa, close to one of the continent’s most exciting cities. Visit www.theoysterbayhotel.com. SINGITA FARU FARU, Tanzania The Singita brand is all about letting nature ‘inside’, and Singita has a number of magnificent properties in Africa. Singita Faru Faru does much to uphold this brand that combines the ultimate in luxury with wilderness

locations. It may take some doing to get to Singita Faru Faru in Grumeti Reserves, but the effort is worth it, and this riverside lodge is the ultimate in barefoot bush luxury. The language of the lodge was designed by renowned South African designer Boyd Ferguson (Cecile & Boyd) and is the perfect place to get away from it all. There are eight suites with en suite bathrooms on offer and Ferguson has used the natural elements of wood, textiles and stone combined with a rugged landscape. The rim-flow swimming pool practically spills onto the spectacular bushveld below, and warm nights are spent on the verandah drinking in the stars. Singita does stylish incredibly well, and you might want to consider some of its other lodges, including the Singita Lebombo in the Kruger National Park, and Singita Pamushana in Zimbabwe. Singita Castleton was recently renovated and is the perfect place for a family gathering in ultimate style. Visit www.singita.com.

The Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa, Cape Town

THE OYSTER BAY, Dar es Salaam Conde Nast Traveller (UK) gave this Dar es Salaam hotel the thumbs up when it

The Oyster Bay Hotel, Dar es Salaam

Kasbah Tamadot, Morocco

Singita Faru Faru, Tanzania

PHOTOGRAPHS: THE TWELVE APOSTLES HOTEL & SPA/OYSTER BAY HOTEL/SINGITAFARU FARU/WWW.CMPLETEMOROCCO.COM

chi-chi bar, followed by dinner at Makaron Restaurant. While away the days by exploring the winelands, visiting the Majeka House Spa or enjoy reading around the pool. Visit www.majekahouse.co.za.

MAGNIFICENT

ETHIOPIA magine rocky canyons, sharp escarpments and towering mountains stretching into infinity. Imagine a lake so big that you can sail across it for days. Imagine tiny, centuries-old monasteries on secret islands, where no woman has put foot for hundreds of years. Imagine glowing, brilliantly coloured medieval frescoes on ancient church walls, depicting saints, sinners, sloeeyed angels, complacent Madonnas, pious prelates and screaming peasants being dragged off to hell by black demons. Imagine a rest house, once the former haunt of decadent fascist Italian generals, with elegant wroughtiron garden chairs and flowering

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plants in shaggy profusion, which later became a communist HQ complete with a 70s brown velveteen lounge suite and plastic flowers, where the waitress is called Revolution. Imagine a 17th-Century Royal Enclosure with a 32m-high rosered castle with turrets, towers and ramparts. Imagine churches, one as big as an Egyptian temple, buried deep beneath the earth’s surface, hewn out of a single rock. Imagine a country where time has stood still since its mighty queen gave birth to King Solomon’s son, and founded a royal dynasty. Imagine deep valleys, black folded rocks like frozen glaciers dipping to the valley floor. Imagine a tiny hominid, called Lucy,

our common ancestor, who roamed this place 3.3 million years ago. Imagine Ethiopia... welcome! If your image of Ethiopia is harsh desert, desolation, famine and starving children, think again. Ethiopia is a land of giddy contrasts such as I’ve found almost nowhere else on earth. Yes, there is desert, but it’s much more a land of water and mountains – the Ethiopian Highlands supply over 80% of the water in the Nile Basin, and in the Semien Mountains there are consistently dramatic, spectacular scenery, unique botanical phenomena, and some of the rarest animals in the world. My journey begins in Addis Ababa, which, at 2 400m, is the third-highest capital city in the world. The thin air

PHOTOGRAPH: DEPOSITPHOTOS

Journey through Ethiopia and fall in love with the biblical landscape that reveals hidden treasures around every corner.

12th-Century rock-hewn churches of Lalibela

catches my breath as my travelling companion Carel and I meet Daniel, our Amharic guide, a former history teacher, and his brother, Mr Fix-It Midexa, who will be our driver, cook, and general factotum. We set off northwards on the long road to Bahir Dar on the banks of Lake Tana, where the Blue Nile rises before snaking its way to join the White Nile at Khartoum in neighbouring Sudan. The weather is temperate, lovely, like a European spring day, as we drive through scenery reminiscent of the Free State, with flat, wide fields of grain stretching to the horizon. There’s a never-ending train of roadside animals – donkeys, mules, traditionally garbed riders on horses with

embroidered saddles, sheep and goats. The road climbs up and down and through the awesomely spectacular Blue Nile Gorge, often likened to America’s Grand Canyon, and over an elegant bridge built by the Italians in 1948, when Ethiopia was still called Abyssinia. As we walk round the vibey little town of Bahir Dar that night, people keep asking us the time, shouting with laughter at our replies, because Ethiopia has a 12-hour clock, and what is 8pm to us is only 4pm to them. And we find out that it’s only 1999 because the Julian calendar of 13 months is used. So, if you missed out on the turn of the millennium, you’ll get a second chance when the century turns in Ethiopia this coming September 11. At dinner that night, we find out that you certainly don’t go to Ethiopia for a gastronomic experience. The standard food is injera, a large pancake made of tef that looks and tastes like thin foam rubber. Interestingly enough, tef is one of the most nutritious grains in the world. Unique to Ethiopia, it’s full of iron, calcium and fibre-rich bran and comprises mostly protein and complex carbohydrates. I’m served my first injera with muddy bean sauce and smoked goat. It never got any better. We spent the next day on Lake Tana cruising from one lake island to another, marvelling at the thatched roofed, round, tiny stone churches, built in the style of traditional huts. The 14thCentury Kidan Mehret is lovely, but even more so is the Church of Margo Selassie – a haven of peace and tranquillity. Young men in papyrus canoes watch us as we climb the hill up to the church. Standing on its steps is a serene, smiling old priest, with a lookalike monk by his side, who wafts his old cross over our heads in greeting. He tells us we will be blessed because we “came from afar to visit our church“. “Will you go to heaven when you die?“ I ask him. “Only HE

knows,“ the monk replies, pointing heavenwards, but with a certain air of confidence. Monks and priests have lived here for centuries, their way of life never changing. An aura of wood smoke and ancient sanctity pervades the interior, adorned with bright wall paintings of biblical scenes. St George is a hot favourite – his roguish image with flashing dark eyes riding a splendidly caparisoned white horse as he spears a rather anaemic looking dragon, is to be found all over Ethiopia. Ancient musty, once-glittery rooflength curtains are pulled aside to show us the paintings, and through the dancing dust motes we see – in almost comic book style – solemn angels with black eyes and curly black hair, purse-lipped saints, leering demons, bewildered looking lions and tigers, and calm-faced Madonnas. Stout wooden 12m-high doors groan and creak like a Gothic horror movie as the priest opens them to let light in to expose martyrs writhing on beds of flames, sinners in chains, stern patriarchs, more Bible stories and a saint riding a distinctly grumpy lion. Eastern grey plantain-eaters (like tarted-up grey louries) cackle and call as we walk down the steps back towards the jetty. The surrounding indigenous forest is full of birdsong. Carel and I debate questions of life and death, existence versus eternity, as we cruise the lake and the day slips away. It’s evening when we arrive at Gorgora, on the northern shore of the lake, and we still haven’t decided. Are the priests and monks cursed or blessed? They know nothing of the world save these tiny islands. Is it a spiritual idyll or a living hell? We finally agree that it’s all relative, but certainly for those holy men it is fulfillment. The night spent at Gorgora on the northern shore of Lake Tana is a highlight. We feel as if we are taking part in a Frederico Fellini movie. Our African Travel Market | 41

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The Castle of Gondar

The Blue Nile Gorge (Great Rift Valley)

Religious artefact

to peasants beside the road. Two men and their wives and babies have been visiting relatives in the next village for a few days and are now on their way home. The thin women, men and children (you never see a fat person in Ethiopia) are laden with baskets, silver jewellery and a woven straw ceremonial table, on which they’ve shared food with the in-laws. Family life is very strong, and there is little or no stealing, because, as Daniel explains, “If you steal, you are cast out of your

Holy man of Lalibela

PHOTOGRAPHS: DEPOSITPHOTOS/DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

once-splendid lodgings are in a former Italian fascist villa (the Italians were here from 1936 to1941) perched on the lakeshore with once beautiful gardens. Water laps around the verandah as mosquitoes whine and bite. It’s easy to picture the jackbooted, riding-breeched fascist general, cigar in mouth, stomping about this villa in its heyday, as his blonde mistress with finger curls and half-open silken kimono trails along behind him with a long cigarette holder between her ruby bow lips. But then the communists came and imprinted their particular brand of distinctive ugliness. A shoddy bedside table beside my creaking bed and its unspeakable mattress is labelled No.703 3/4/70. When the Dergue – the communist regime that murdered Emperor Haile Selassie in the early 70s – came to power, they turned husband against wife, child against parent, and friend against friend. The notorious General Mengistu Neway (now living in luxury in Zimbabwe) had hundreds of thousands summarily shot, tortured and more thousands simply vanished. It doesn’t take much imagination in such an atmospheric place as this villa to imagine, first, the parties here in the 30s – the silk dresses, the Brilliantined hair, the jazz musicians, the smell of pasta and fine old brandy – to be followed years later by joyless party officials, ranting speeches, loudspeakers blaring propaganda and intermittent rifle shots. Our waitress’s name is Revolution, a grim reminder of a grim chapter of Ethiopia’s recent history. These early experiences in our first few days underlined and reinforced the conclusion that most visitors come to – Ethiopia is totally uncategorisable. You think you’ve got a handle on the country and its people, and then something will happen that immediately defies your perceptions. On our way to Gondar – the Camelot of Africa – we stop and chat

PHOTOGRAPHS: DEPOSITPHOTOS/DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

family forever. And that is the worst punishment of all.“ In the Royal Compound at Gondar, you could be in Ireland, Scotland or any country where medieval castles are the norm. The main castle, built in 1632, is the quintessential castle of all romantic legends – here the Sleeping Beauty could have slumbered for 100 years, here Braveheart could have scaled the walls, and from the highest turrets, Rapunzel could have let down her long golden hair. There are no other castles to match Gondar in Africa – not one comes even close. Another long, uncomfortable road journey – but it’s imperative to travel by road to capture the essence of Ethiopia – takes us up nearly 3 000m into the Semien Mountains, a World Heritage Site, where bearded vultures soar, giant St John’s wort (Hypericum revolutum) grows to a height of 4m, and there’s a forest of giant heath (Erica arborea). But by far the most spectacular plant that greets our eyes is the giant lobelia (Lobelia rhynchopetalum) with flower stalks up to 8m high. The alpine tundra around us is strewn with carpets of wild flowers as the high altitude nips our lungs, and before the thick early morning mist swirls away to reveal peak upon sunlit peak, canyons and ravines, stretching as far as the eye can see, we see thickcoated ponies munching on the springy turf – this could be Lorna Doone country. Gelada baboons, unique to Ethiopia, with long golden silky manes and flowing golden tails ending in golden tufts, look for all the world like lions as they canter shrieking across the spongy mountain meadows. But most visitors (and there are still only a handful compared to other better-known destinations) come to Ethiopia for the 12th-Century rockhewn churches at Lalibela. If these incredible churches were anywhere else, they would be touted as the Eighth

Wonder of the World, and for sheer spectacle and cultural significance they rank easily with Peru’s Machu Picchu or Egypt’s pyramids. All are carved, mostly out of single blocks of stone, and are sited below ground. Their roofs are at ground surface, and then you climb down tunnels and rocky passages to where their entrances stand 12m below ground. For over 800 years, these have been active Christian shrines with a continuum of priests and worshippers that has changed little over the centuries. We attend an early morning service where people crouch, sit, prostrate themselves before holy icons, and pray, while a bank of lugubrious-looking priests chants monotonously from the Ethiopian version of the Bible as drums sound and ancient religious musical instruments tinkle. In numerous tiny holes in the walls of all the churches live little hermits and anchorites, who spend their lives here reading the Bible and praying. It’s an uncomfortable and bizarre sight, although the holy men themselves seem quite content, if a bit raddled, wizened, and understandably very bent and worn. And then, for the most amazing experience of all – Hadar and the Great Rift Valley! I’m sitting on the rim of the Rift Valley at sunset. It all seems so familiar – the mountains, valleys, ridges, rocks, all touched by the setting sun. My overwhelming sensation is that I’m home – I have been here before. An ancestral gene is stirring in me… this is where our ancestors scrambled and the race for survival and dominance began. Doves call as doves always do, flat-topped acacias glint, a slight breeze swirls round my ears, yellow grasses sway. It’s a scene of amazing, unique beauty, the more amazing and beautiful because we know that this is where we began. Darkness falls as Daniel and Medixa make camp on the other side of the hill. Suddenly the silence is broken by

the sound of marching feet – slap, slap, slap against the rocks. The next moment 14 Afar tribesmen, with wild hair, stony implacable eyes, traditional robes, spears and Kalashnikovs, surround us. They take their rifles off their shoulders and clutch them purposefully. Carel and I sit immobile. I decide to try the inimitable irresistible Turkington smile at the one who seems to be the leader. Wrong. An even more implacable stare confronts me. And so we sit and they stand – face-off – until they finally decide to move off into the darkness. A very dramatic moment. “Lucky they weren’t Isas (warring Somali warriors),” hisses Daniel. “And a very good thing you sat still and didn’t panic.” Just another day in Africa. by Kate Turkington

THE BEST WAY TO TRAVEL IN ETHIOPIA  Hire your own guide to tailor-make an itinerary for you, as Daniel Tesfaye at Praise Adventure Tour did for us. Contact +25 111 270 81 44/45 praiseadventure@ ethionet.et; etaye@yahoo.co.uk.  Don’t leave without The Bradt Guide to Ethiopia by Philip Briggs – it’s superb, compulsory reading, before, during and after your trip.  Expect accommodation to be sometimes funky, often a bit bleak but always interesting. You’ll find out that cleanliness in Ethiopia doesn’t go hand in hand with godliness, and often there’s no or little running water.  Take lots of biltong, trail mix and energy bars if goat and other local delicacies are not for you.  Insect deterrent and Ethiopian money – birr – are a must. The beer is good, the roads are rough and the people are charming and friendly. But Ethiopia, although wonderful beyond belief, is not for the faint-hearted. African Travel Market | 43

Just a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw from Gauteng lies the magnificent North West province of South Africa, boasting vast numbers of protected biodiversity and steeped in rich cultural heritage. Whatever your reason for visiting, allow yourself a moment to enjoy the many wonders of the province as every memory you make will be sure to linger with you for a lifetime.

ONE WORD DESCRIBES THE NORTH WEST PROVINCE...

Tranquility

WITH UNBLEMISHED, UNTAMED NATURAL LANDSCAPES.

THE PROVINCE INVITES YOU TO...  Explore a land of magical beauty and magniﬁcent scenery.  A warm welcome and the friendly smiles of locals and travellers to the province.  Engage in interesting conversations with the local inhabitants.  Delight in wildlife theatre.  Sunrise and sunset game drives.  Revisit an unforgettable history.  Appreciate the unspoiled cultures .  Embark on timeless adventures.  Enjoy the hospitable climate that gives rise to fascinating indigenous fauna and ﬂora.  Browse the colourful local arts and crafts.  World-class service and lavish hospitality at luxury accommodation spots.  Gaze at the stars at World Heritage Sites.  Witness inspiring sunrises and breathtaking sunsets.  Learn more about South Africa by exploring the Treasure Route.  Indulgence in bush spa experiences.  Dine on exotic and local African cuisine.

www.tourismnorthwest.co.za Call centre: 0861 111 866

Photograph: Ross Couper/Singita

Leopard spots and zebra stripes Maasai red and cool greens, fiery sunsets and endless skies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Africa speaks a language of colourful contradictions.

African elephant using its magnificent trunk to scoop up dust as a protective coat from the harsh rays of the sun.

PHOTOGRAPH: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

Maasai warriors of Kenya in their traditional clothing shopping at a local market.

PHOTOGRAPH: ROSS COUPER/SINGITA

An unusual sight as a solitary leopard, a nocturnal hunter, saunters along a dusty track in a game reserve.

Photograph: andBeyond

Wild Zebra: Art Deco on the Hoof.

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

Pink is the new black! A colony of flamingos wade in the waters of the Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania.

Family fishing in the Okavango Delta, Botswana.

PHOTOGRAPH: AFRICAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FINEST Kaingo Camp overlooking South Luangwa National Park in Zambia

David Bristow

AFRICA’S Meet David Bristow, author of Africa’s Finest, who is on a dedicated quest to identify The Ultimate Green Lodge. frica’s Finest was released in 2013 and caused a stir in the local hospitality industry, with two industry stalwarts – David Bristow and Colin Bell – beginning to dig deeper into the issue of sustainability and lodges in Africa. What inspired you to produce Africa’s Finest? It started over beers at the Indaba Travel Trade Show in Durban several years ago, with my partner in this venture, Colin Bell, fuming about the ‘green washers’ in the industry, picking up eco awards and basically selling the green lie. “We need to do something about them,” he said to me. It took a few years for that seed to germinate into the book project that grew from it. Are you surprised that the most obvious lodges (the ones we hear about in terms of being ‘award-winning lodges’) didn’t necessarily make the list. Well, that’s the point, isn’t it? It’s not that they are not all green, but that they are not green enough. We hope those with green leanings will take the lead from those that did make the book, as well as

from our ‘dream green lodge’ blueprint near the back of the book. Hopefully the fence sitters will take the leap of faith into sustainable operations, and real eco-pirates will reap their due rewards. What is the book about – in a nutshell? It’s right there in the subtitle: “The most sustainable and responsible safari destinations in Africa and the associated Indian Ocean islands.“ How long did it take you to put the book together? It was four years from the moment we pressed the ‘go’ button to when the book was published. Year one was planning, devising our lodge appraisal process, and refining our list of around 1 000 lodges down to 250 possibles, and then 175 probables. Year two was spent visiting those 175 places to conduct environmental assessments. Year three was spent writing and editing, and year four was design and publishing. What were your most interesting/ valuable findings? What we found was at first African Travel Market | 55

PHOTOGRAPH: AFRICAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FINEST Wolwedans Dunes Lodge in the NamibRand Private Nature Reserve, Namibia

disappointing – that only 50 places scored 80% or more on our 102-point assessment survey. A further 25-odd we found to be “places to watch“. What we found to be more assuring was how much green technology and practices had become accessible, and how many places were leaning that way, and just needed a push from the right people – either us or guests and the travel agents that feed them. What can Africa teach the rest of the world in terms of sustainability or treading the earth lightly? We have some of the best- and worstcase safari scenarios. The best are Botswana and Namibia, where safari operators work hand in hand with the communities around them, and also with the governments, so there is no conflict of interests. Everyone gets their fair share of the safari pie and, in the process, wildlife and natural habitats are given due protection. Some of the worst-case scenarios are found in parts of East Africa, where members of the safari industry are often in conflict with communities, are not paying their land rentals and other levies and taxes, and are bleeding dry the land, the people and the wild animals. These are the eco-pirates, and up there they call the process “leakage“. What do you hope to achieve with this book? First, we hope to show safari operators how easy it is to go green, and with current technologies, that is in fact a financial no-brainer. Second, we hope to persuade travellers and safari travel agents to book the lodges that are doing the most to ensure that there will still be wild animals into the future. What is the Ultimate Green Lodge? There are three main variables

here – green operations, including buildings, procurement, energy and waste. Then comes the conservation footprint, or the green heart of a place. Finally, and most important of all, is the community component. If there is no community buy-in, the safari option will not endure and will be replaced by hunting, farming or other land uses, and with that goes the wildlife. And that, unfortunately, is what is happening in far too many safari areas. What lessons can developers/lodge owners take from this book? It’s all there at the back of the book, from conceptualisation, design and energy options, to how best to treat sewage. We show examples of people doing good, of people doing badly, and then give the blueprint for the perfect green lodge. We don’t pretend to have all the answers, but we do have most of them, complete with information about “how to“. Sum up your personal journey in producing this book. I guess I’ve seen the best and the worst of what Africa’s safari industry has on show. But the big picture is the alarming rate at which our wild places and wild animals are disappearing. If the safari industry cannot protect them, no one and nothing else can. It’s up to us, and we have to get it done in our lifetime or it’s game over. Africa’s Finest features the most sustainable and responsible safari destinations in subSaharan Africa and the Indian Ocean islands. The book is available through the website for R795. Visit www.africasfinest.com.

African Travel Market | 57

Photograph: Darling Lama Productions

Soulful JOURNEYs

Fancy a soulful journey to Ghana, a beach sojourn in Pemba, a shopping safari in Morocco, or an eco-expedition in the tropical forests of Madagascar? The good news is the African continent has so much to offer the traveller in search of the extraordinary.

ush hour traffic on a Zanzibar beach consists of two bicycles crossing each other at a snail’s pace. Cutting-edge fashion in Accra (Ghana) means a mile-high traditional headdress in canary yellow, and sundowners in the Sahara make any alternative pale in comparison. We’re a continent with attitude and passion and creativity – and we’ll do it our way, thank you very much! So, if you’re contemplating visiting our gorgeous part of the world – all we ask is an open heart and mind, and we promise you’ll fall in love, head over heels with a continent that weaves a magnetic spell so thick and fast and exciting you’ll never look back.

TERRIFIC TUNISIA Tunisia is probably as far away from Cape Town as one can get. Situated on the northern tip of the African continent, this little country is a different world definitely worth exploring. From the ancient streets of Sidi Bou Said to the bustling souk-filled capital of Tunis to Touzeur, the gateway to the desert, Tunisia is a fantastic African/Arab mix of adventures. A real highlight is heading out to the Sahara. Once a year the dusty town of Douz hosts a festival celebrating nomadic life and the desert itself. For the more adventurous, 10- to 20-day camel safaris into the desert are also on offer. Tunisia really is the land of milk and honey, with the food another major highlight. Think fresh dates, fat oranges, hummus, tahina, tabouleh and the best couscous this side of the Nile. Tunisia has not been without its political problems in the last 18 months, but much is being done to restore the country’s tourism to its former glory. Check with your local travel agent or tour operator before planning your visit to the country.

Landscapes of Tanzania

SULTAN’S SWING IN ZANZIBAR Once home to sultans, spice traders, warlords and princesses long forgotten, the island of Zanzibar has been and continues to be one of the most popular ‘exotic’ destinations on the continent… and for good reason. The place is not only steeped in history but also has brilliant beaches, great diving and snorkeling spots, and fantastic hotels. Known as the Spice Islands in the days of old, Zanzibar was one of the most important trading towns along the East African coast and the cultivation of cloves is still big business for the locals. Visiting the old Stone Town of Zanzibar is fascinating. The crumbling walls of the ex-sultan’s palaces, quaint bazaars, ancient mosques, Persian-style public bath house, old Fort and slave quarters tell a tale of their own. A A visit to Emerson’s Hotel for sundowners is an absolute must. Its rooftop verandah has the most exquisite views of the whole of Stone Town as you lounge back on multicoloured cushions and sip on your sweet vodka and lime dawa cocktail.

ZAMBIA – THE ‘REAL AFRICA’ Zambia really came into her own as a tourist destination when travellers stopped going through Zimbabwe (due to the unfriendly political sitatution) and using Zambia as the gateway to the splendid Victoria Falls, also known as Mosia oa Tunya or ‘the Smoke that Thunders’. The Zambian government as well as private hospitality stakeholders have invested in tourism and are reaping the benefits. But Zambia is so much more than the Victoria Falls; there is the historical town of Livingstone, Kafue National Park

62 | African Travel Market

and the spectacular South Luangwa National Park.

HELLO, GHANA! Not many South Africans are familiar with the streets of Accra or the beauty of Ghana. This incredible country is one of Africa’s best-kept secrets and travellers would find much to enjoy in this vibrant country. A major highlight is spending time in the capital city of Accra. Here it can take you over an hour just to drive a few metres down the main street. One has to ask where else in the world can you buy all your groceries from the window of a moving car? We are talking anything from fresh fish, bread and fizzy Fanta, to hula-hoops, jackfruit and djembe drums. A visit to the Kakum Rainforest is another favourite with visitors – the hanging bridge over the forest is legendary and not for the fainthearted. Accra looks over the Gulf of Guinea and offers wonderful nightlife and some of the best jazz bars in the world. A visit to Ghana’s Elmina Castle along the Cape Coast is a heartening experience. It’s the Ghanaian version of Robben Island and definitely worth the trip. Despite a rather harrowing history, the indomitable spirit of the place lives on in the colourful lives of its people, and wherever you go in Ghana you’ll hear local people greeting you: “Akwaaba!”

MARVELLOUS MOROCCO Think ancient bazaars, Arabian nights, voluptuous belly dancers and the best shopping of your life. Morocco gained its reputation as a trading hotspot decades ago, and this shop-til-you-drop mentality still exists today. Once home to pirates, sailors and merchants of old, Morocco still has a slightly shady feel

to it, which just adds to its charm – that is, if you like that kind of thing. Day visits to Morocco are becoming increasingly popular for those having a holiday, and although Marakech is a major tourist trap, it’s a fun add-on to any trip to the Mediterranean. What’s not to love – Morocco offers a wealth of history, fantastic food and incredible adventures. And when it comes to shopping, we are talking the softest leather, exquisite beaded slippers, silver trinkets and beautiful Persian carpets.

VANILLA SCENTED PARADISE Not only does Madagascar work to its own rhythm – you first get Africa time, then you get Madagascar time – it’s a geographical treasure with flora and fauna unique to this part of the world. This incredible Indian Ocean hideout offers huge diversity and combines rainforests and tropical islands with desert landscapes and breathtaking mountainous plateaux. There are a number of highlights to look out for such as visits to Perinet Reserve and Karundi Forest Reserve, and, of course, trips to the better known islands of Nosy Be and Ille Saint Marie are a must to celebrate extra special life events. There are also fantastic resorts on Madagascar’s private islands – just ideal for that honeymoon getaway or anniversary celebration. Not cheap, but well worth every cent. Did we mention Lamu, a gorgeous island off the coast of Kenya, the Serengeti during migration time, the gorillas in Rwanda, the blissful camps on Lake Malawi, or the bustling streets of Lagos? The traveller to Africa is most definitely spoilt for intriguing destination choices.

BEACH CLUB B I L E N E

M O Z A M B I Q U E

MADOSINI MANQINENI

TRADITIONAL MUSICIAN he is seated squarely on her bed with her short, rounded legs outstretched in front of her – she bounces them up and down on the mattress, as would a child. And she is surrounded by people. Some of them constitute her family – granddaughters, grandsons and nieces. But others are neighbours and friends. At first, there are a crowded seven of us in the small room – Manqineni, some family members, a few elderly male neighbours perched on carts and chairs, and myself. Over the hours that we talk, a continuous trickle of people fills the room even further: grandchildren returning from school,

and construction workers on their lunch branch. They’re all here for one thing: to listen to this animated musician and storyteller as she recounts her childhood in Mpondoland, plays her uHadi (a braced gourd bow), and tells stories meant to make their listeners laugh, and learn. Relatively unknown for most of her life, Manqineni (73) is now revered as the ’queen’ of Xhosa music. She is renowned for her deep, varied singing and her mastery of the uMrhubhe (the musical Xhosa bow), iSitolotolo (the jaw harp) and uHadi, all traditional Xhosa instruments that she learned to play growing up in rural villages outside of Mthatha, Eastern Cape.

Her 1995 album Power to the Women launched Manqineni to national and international acclaim. Her golden years have brought her musical fortune: she has played with musicians such as Brazilian artist and former minister of culture Gilberto Gil, acclaimed classical composer Hans Huyssen, British rock singer Patrick Duff, and rising South African star Thandiswa Mazwai. She has performed across South Africa, Europe and North America, and was the first musician to be recorded for the Womad Festival Musical Elders Archive Project. Manqineni was born in 1940 in Mqhekezweni, Eastern Cape. She describes her childhood as that of a

PHOTOGRAPH: SALLY SHORKEND

It is midday on a Tuesday and Madosini Manqineni, one of South Africa’s greatest living traditional musicians, is in her small, tidy flat, situated in the heart of Langa, Cape Town.

PHOTOGRAPH: SALLY SHORKEND

traditional Xhosa girl: the majority of her time was spent on her family’s homestead, where she tended to chores and learned the customs of her community. Some of her first songs were learned while singing with the other girls while gathering firewood, or socialising with boys: music was a daily part of their lives. “In those days there were no radios, so people had to play music for themselves instead of listening from the radio,” she explains. Her mother was by far her biggest musical influence: an accomplished musician herself, she played music in order to import key life lessons to her daughter, and to ease the child to sleep. Young Madosini took a keen interest in music, and, like many in her community, began learning traditional instruments. But while learning music was the norm among her peer group, circumstances pushed her on a different path: a leg injury, which began as a child and persisted through adulthood, meant that she could not walk or play like the other children could. Confined to the house, she distracted herself with music, and quickly became recognised for her musical prowess. It was this time in social isolation that allowed her to develop an individual style. While her music stems from the songs and melodies she heard as a child, she has developed little quirks and exclamations that make it truly her own: she whistles when she sings, and pulls up notes that come from deep within her throat. Her performance is joyous, deep, hard, melodic and enchanting. Her life has not been without hardship. Manqineni was first ‘discovered’ when a film crew came to the Eastern Cape to film the ‘Xhosa MacBeth’ in the early 1970s. When they heard of Manqineni’s playing, they urged her to perform, and gave her a meager R1 for each recorded

song which was used in the film. Her music eventually made it to Radio Xhosa, where it was played for 15 years without any recognition or payment given to Manqineni. Understandably mistrustful of producers – and outsiders more generally – Manqineni was not convinced to be recorded again until she began working with Dizu Plaatjies in the 1990s, a musician residing in Langa, but also hailing from the Eastern Cape. Plaatjies considers Manqineni the best bow player in all of Eastern Cape, and one of the best bow and harp players anywhere in the world. He recorded some of Manqineni’s songs at a studio in Cape Town; they were later produced by the European company M.E.L.T.2000. These songs compiled ‘Power to the Women’, a title which Plaatjies chose to honour Manqineni, and to demonstrate that women have a variety of talents, capabilities and gifts. To describe Manqineni purely as a musician would be to sell her short. She is above all a storyteller, and uses her music to help convey fables, knowledge, feelings, and history. She sings traditional Xhosa songs, which primarily aim to impart important lessons to those who hear them. They mainly centre on love, fidelity, and the daily ins and outs of rural life, everchanging as South Africa changes. Although she attended school, Manqineni never learned English, and still speaks and sings exclusively in isiXhosa. It is the language of her community, her music, her expression, and her identity. Manqineni uses her music to help educate about, and maintain, cultural traditions. “The importance of the music that I play is that this music was there long before I was born, long before most of us were born. Stories help you to find out where you are

coming from,” she says, explaining that some of her songs are given to her in dreams by her ancestors. But she fears these traditions are fast fading: while memories of her childhood paint a time not so long ago when all children learned a wide array of instruments and songs, none of her grandchildren have learned to play any of the instruments that Manqineni has now mastered. She is internationally acclaimed, but she struggles to book gigs in South Africa. Recognising her mortality, she hopes that her music won’t die with her. “I’m worried that when I vanish, not many people will be left who are playing these instruments,” she says. She hopes that government will promote musical education of traditional music and employ people like herself to teach. “I was taught by my mom and I’d like to do the very same thing – to give back to the children,” she says. “Then, at least when I vanish from this world, I would vanish in dignity.” Manqineni becomes heavy when we speak about these things. But when she tells a story, everything else in the world falls to the wayside: both for Manqineni, and for those around her. There are 11 people in the room by the time the aged great walks me to my car, including one young woman who doesn’t even speak isiXhosa – she delights in Manqineni’s joyous storytelling regardless. In the parking lot, our goodbye is brief, as Manqineni is quickly called over by a group of young people seated in a construction truck. “Manqineni, Manqineni!” they beckon, expectant and excited. She smiles and hobbles over, ready to tell yet another tale. In doing so, she brings a slice of Mpondoland to the streets of Langa. This article appears courtesy of the Mail & Guardian Book of Women 2013, written by Mara KordasNelson (bow2013.mg.co.za).

African Travel Market | 65

Forget lounging around the resort pool bar with a cocktail in hand. JIM FREEMAN encourages travellers to discover the real Mauritius, spread a little mayhem and have a passel of noisy fun.

IPhotograph: Jim Freeman

THUNDER IN

Men and their machines: Jim Freeman, Paul Wren and Charles de Foucalt, GM of One&Only Le Saint Géran

uring the Vietnam War of the 1950s to the 1970s, US Air Force carpet-bombing operations in the north of that country were known as ‘rolling thunder’. In the tiny Indian Ocean island of Mauritius, the phrase has come to describe the phenomenon known to the rest of the world as the monthly ride-out by the local Harley-Davidson Owners’ Group (HOG). It’s one thing to listen to a posse of

Milwaukee’s finest burbling along a highway, but quite another to hear up to 50 monster motorcycles grumble and roar through a small village, triggering car and burglar alarms, before moving on like a tropical storm to sow chaos up the road. “Harley riding is an activity that is still very new to the island and, as a result, it doesn’t attract any of the negative connotations and perceptions that it does elsewhere in the world,” maintains Paul Wren, dealer-manager of Harley-

Davidson Mauritius for the past two years. “The whole biker scene is fresh and friendly. There is no segregation of brands or bike types: there aren’t enough of us, so we all ride together.” Indeed. While the monthly ride-out is dominated by Harleys, typically there will be other motorcycles, such as the 1200cc Ducati Multistrada and – on occasion – the island’s sole, gargantuan 2300cc Triumph Rocket. Noise aside, the riders are impeccably behaved. They obey the

68 | African Travel Market

Grand Baie

Lush vegetation lines the roads of the island.

Rentals range from 6 000 Mauritian rupees (about R1 860) plus VAT per day for a Dyna, up to 8 500 rupees (R2 650) when the dealership later adds the 1690cc Road King touring bike to the fleet. The Softail Slim costs 8 000 rupees a day. “That’s for a 24-hour rental and includes unlimited mileage, insurance and riding gear – helmets, gloves and rain suits. We also offer half-day rentals, from 10am to 5pm,” Wren explains. “There are also discounts for cardcarrying HOG members.” Prospective clients will need to be in possession of a valid international driver’s licence for motorcycles over 50cc. Harley-Davidson Mauritius will drop off and collect bikes at clients’ hotels at no additional cost. Wren’s long-term goal is to station

rental bikes permanently at the top hotels, with most of these going to the One&Only Le Saint Géran. That’s mainly because the resort’s general manager for two years, Charles de Foucault, is a good mate as well as a Harley freak, who’s been riding them since working for Ritz-Carlton in California in 1999. “My first experience on a Harley was riding from Laguna Beach to Yosemite National Park,“ says de Foucault. “We spent a whole week on the bikes and I was hooked!” de Foucault says. “Six months later I had my own Softail Deuce. I kept it for 10 years and moved it from Los Angeles to Korea to Bahrain to India.“ De Foucault pootles around Mauritius on an extensively modified Dyna Switchback which, if he ever tries

PHOTOGRAPHS: JIM FREEMAN

instructions of the road captains as well as traffic regulations and are unfailingly courteous to other road users. They give bikers a far better name than do the users of the ubiquitous 50cc mobylette mopeds. There are about 80 Harley-Davidsons on the island at present. Given that the population is only 1.3-million people, the number is unlikely to increase dramatically in the next few years and Wren’s next initiative is to tap into the international tourism market – one of the mainstays of the Mauritian economy – and rent bikes to visitors from abroad. “The intention is to put Mauritius on the map as a great biking destination,” says Wren, a 55-year-old English expatriate who has lived on the island intermittently since 1989. “Mauritius is quite small, with a coastline of just 177km. The scenery is fantastic, the road quality is good and most of the riding is easy, though one route along twisty mountain roads requires a bit more expertise. The riding is quite diverse and, in all the time we’ve had our monthly ride-outs, we’ve never done exactly the same route.” Harley-Davidson Mauritius has five bikes on the road for rentals: two 1690cc Dynas, two 1200cc Sportsters and a 1690cc Softail Slim. The response from tourists has been so overwhelming that the fleet is being enlarged. “We've just obtained five more permits for rental machines and will be adding to the fleet before the end of the year. In fact, I took a Dyna Switchback as well as a Road King out of stock recently, but promptly sold the Road King and had to start the transfer process all over again. I hope to increase the fleet to 10 bikes by the beginning of December,” says Wren. Die-hard Harley fans will be disappointed to hear that he has no plans to bolster the fleet with one of the derivatives of the top-of-the-range Electra Glide. “They’re not appropriate for the riding conditions,” Wren says.

Ducati meets Harley-Davidson

sugarcane fields have been harvested and previously hidden vistas of verdant, volcanic mountains appear. For a visitor, though, it’s quite funky riding through the fields that tower above you right on the verge and grabbing tantalising glimpses of the mountains when you crest a rise or round a bend. There’s also nothing wrong with following coastal roads, where the turquoise waters lap at the shore no more than a few metres from the road. Best of all is stopping at a roadside café – what the Mauritians call a tabaje – for a couple of cold ones and a helping of street food after a day’s riding. With an island culture that blends creole, French, Indian and Chinese influences, the flavours are incredible! by Jim Freeman

ONE&ONLY LE SAINT GÉRAN

Young admirers – Trou d’ Eau Douce

to take it back into his native southern France, will violate every European Union bike-noise rule. Wren maintains that the majority of visitors to Mauritius are driven from the international airport to their resort hotels – where they spend most if not all of their vacation – and back again, without discovering all the island has on offer. He says hiring a motorcycle combines the best of both worlds: having a holiday adventure and discovering the soul of a country that has – at various times – been colonised by the Dutch, French and British before attaining independence in 1968. “Tourists need to be fairly adventurous if you want to discover the back parts of Mauritius. We see them

getting the most benefit from guided tours.” Wren continues, “We currently offer guided tours for up to five bikes – that’s five riders with a passenger each – for a premium on the half-day rental amount.” Guided rides avoid the congested capital, Port Louis, and take in traditional tourist haunts such as the Pampelmousses Botanical Gardens only if the client specifically requests. The joy of being a bike-borne tourist in Mauritius is that – while evading the mobylettes – you get to take in the sights and the smells of the island. Very little of the road system is metalled highway and the narrow, tree-canopied lanes generally preclude high-speed riding. Local riders prefer riding around September and October because the

One&Only Le Saint Géran is situated at Pointe de Flacq in the northeast of Mauritius. It opened in 1975 but has since undergone extensive refurbishment to become an island getaway of choice. Surrounded by kilometres of pristine coral-sand beaches as well as thousands of palm trees, the resort prides itself on offering guests discreet luxury and pampering in a relaxed atmosphere. There are 166 suites and a twobedroom private villa with its own swimming pool, separate entrance, total privacy and a team of butlers, valet and chef to cater to every whim. One&Only Le Saint Géran is also an epicure’s delight, featuring three stellar restaurants, including Rasoi by Vineet. The restaurant presents contemporary Indian cuisine and is run by Vineet Bhatia, whose signature London eatery is Michelin-starred. For more information, visit lesaintgeran. oneandonlyresorts.com.

African Travel Market | 69

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Eating Photograph: Ryan JAMES/Darling Lama Productions

Whether it’s tagines in Morocco, fufu in Accra or bokkoms on the West Coast of South Africa, the continent’s colourful cuisine is a culinary journey worth taking.

Peri-peri prawns

frica’s culinary language is a fascinating one – sometimes dictated by landscape, sometimes dictated by culture and, often, necessity has provided the space for creativity. North Africa’s fragrant tagines cooked in iconic clay pots boast a sweet-andsour marriage that sings thanks to the addition of dates, honey, briny olives and preserved lemons. Couscous meals that feature spicy merguez sausages, braised lamb, a vegetable broth and a couscous mount (from rolled semolina flour) are traditionally enjoyed by the extended family dining together around one central platter. For added kick, try the condiment traditionally served with this meal – harissa, made from pounded chillies, vinegar and cumin. Bastilla is a pigeon pie that is toasted in the pan and sprinkled with cinnamon – a Moroccan specialty not to be missed, even if chicken often replaces the more traditional pigeon these days. Another Moroccan dish that has travelled the world is Mechoui, grilled lamb topped with traditional spices. North African spices are justly famous, the best known being Ras el Hanout, meaning the vendor’s ‘top blend’, and can include cumin, cardamom, cloves, ginger and turmeric, to name just a few. North African food is fragrant but never overly spicy and the hot stuff is usually served on the side. Mint tea is a staple and should be enjoyed while haggling with spice and carpet vendors, after a couscous meal or whenever you need a breather. Don’t leave without a sweet, sticky pastry – dripping with local honey and covered in nuts – or try out a spot of halva, which is decadent and sinfully delicious.

travelling as far as New York and leaving a mark. Suya is a favourite in West Africa – it’s a type of shish kebab with spices cooked on the barbeque. In Ghana, you’ll get fufu – yams, cassava or plantains boiled and pounded to a doughy consistency and eaten dipped in a sauce or soup. Then there is Kenkey – a type of sourdough dumpling dished up with soup. Jollof rice is a hit in Senegal, as is Thieboudienne – a fish dish. In Nigeria, try the yam porridge (amala); acaraje (black-eyed peas) or Echicha, which consists of cassava, pigeon, peas and palm oil of Frejon – a coconut bean soup. In Ivory Coast, you just have to try the coffee – potent and roasted extra dark, it packs a convincing caffeine punch, strong enough to please the French and Italians. On the opposite side of the continent, Ethiopia is their main rival in the coffee stakes. Do try the traditional Ethiopian staple of a fermented pancake topped with a choice of spicy accompaniments, ranging from meat and vegetables to relishes.

West Africa’s braised fish and chicken dishes impress – like Senegal’s Yassa chicken – with Nigeria’s ‘red sauce’

East Africa, and the island of Zanzibar off Tanzania in particular, is home to a luxurious variety of spices – such as

74 | African Travel Market

Koeksisters, a South African sweet tradition.

pepper, cinnamon and cloves – hence the name The Spice Islands. The night market in Zanzibar’s Stone Town offers diners the chance to walk along the beachfront and taste as far as they go, as the grilled fish and other seafood smoking on the coals are that day’s catch and difficult to resist. In Somalia, there is Lahoh – a spongy bread – and in Kenya and Tanzania, try out Mandazi, a fried bread treat. Wherever you travel in East Africa, you’ll find an East Indian presence and it’s a good idea to at least once try some Indian food, which is rich in spices and satisfyingly hearty, even if you’re having only a vegetable dish with flat bread on the side. East Africa gave Southern Africa the chilli, which travelled down the coast with Portuguese and Indian merchants.

PHOTOGRAPHS: RYAN JAMES/DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

Spices are used liberally in African cuisine.

Couscous, bunny chow (right) and bobotie (below) – all African recipes.

Mozambique is the world’s best ambassador for piri-piri (peri-peri) prawns. A walk through the market in the capital city, Maputo, will introduce you to this delicacy in all its sizes and varieties. Matched to a local beer or a grassy Portuguese wine, thick chips and spiced rice, prawns are the ultimate indulgence here. The local crab and fish preparations are equally inviting, particularly when grilled over an open fire. Southern Africa has Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa which are known for the excellent quality of their beef and chargrilled steaks. If you’re a fan of roasted ribs, then go for it, particularly in Zimbabwe. The West Coast of Namibia produces some of the best oysters and

venison in the region and the semidesert interior of South Africa (the Karoo) is home to lamb redolent of the wild herbs on which they feast. The cuisines that dominate the South African table are African (meat, maize meal porridge and beans dominate), Malaysian/ Indonesian, East Indian, English, Portuguese and Italian. German settlers gave South Africa its iconic boerewors (farmers’ sausage). The Malays came to the Cape with the first Dutch settlers from Indonesia and produced bobotie, a meat pie with a savoury custard topping. And if you don’t know, dried red meat called biltong is a favourite national snack, closely followed by dried wors (sausage), and these can be purchased in most food outlets, but butcheries usually stock the best. Variety meats (offal) are an African staple and chisa nyama is something you will definitely find on the township streets. To make the most of African cuisine, opt for regional specialties – the locals will be only too happy to recommend their best dishes. So, let your taste buds take you on a journey through the continent. by Elizabeth Badenhorst

Chef Reuben Riffel

A SOUTH AFRICAN BRAAI One of South Africa’s best-loved chefs, Reuben Riffel, has published a number of excellent books. His latest is called BRAAI - Reuben on Fire (Quivertree) and is dedicated to the wonderful tradition known as the South African braai. Braaing is simply a way of life for many South Africans. As Riffel explains:“[It] is the ultimate way to cook. Social, primal and the most fun you can have with your clothes on as a South African – or anyone for that matter – it's a skill worth perfecting“. BRAAI - Reuben on Fire is available at all good bookstores and as an e-book.

African Travel Market | 75

Have money, will travel... We’re often asked, if time or money weren’t an issue, what would you do? Jabulile Ngwenya pens a letter to a friend, telling him the gifts she would give herself from the world’s biggest treasure box – Africa. Dear Tim Thank you for the birthday gift you’ve kindly bestowed upon me. I’ve wondered for months now what I should do with the money and it only seems right that I should travel. It seems frivolous considering life’s many pressures and demands, but I should tell you my reasoning. I was probably seven or eight years old when my dad woke me from a deep slumber to hurriedly take a bath. It was three o’clock in the morning and dad would be driving us from Bulawayo to Johannesburg – a journey of 10 hours depending on the queues at the Beitbridge border. As I peered through the curtains, the shadow of the old ever-faithful gum tree which stood protectively over my bedroom window and to which I’d whispered many childhood secrets, was the only dark spot on the earth. It looked like a gnarled old man in search of something; the rest of the Earth was lovely brown soil so clear from the shine of the full moon and the millions of stars dotting the African royal navy sky. You remember that, don’t you? As soon as we were all in the car and dad had driven out of town,

76 | African Travel Market

Mosi oa Tunya, ’The smoke that thunders’ – name given to the Victoria Falls.

and the reception of the radio station turned poor, forcing dad to put in one of his jazz cassettes, songs for which I have no names but which I can sing or hum even today, I’d cover myself with a blanket and be gently lulled to sleep. My favourite memory is waking up to the music and looking out of the window of the Mazda 323, noting nothing but bush, trees, grasslands, cows and goats and a magnificent sunrise as the sky lit up with delightful pinks, hazy oranges, streaks of purple against a warm blue background. I tell myself it’s those trips that ignited my love for travel, or maybe it was because of my parents’ love for the road and our beautiful continent that we never had an ordinary holiday. We couldn’t afford to fly anywhere but, as you know, mom and dad would never hesitate to drive across the border to Botswana, Zimbabwe or Lesotho, exploring cities, towns and ancient sites. Sadly those trips have stopped, but in honour of my parents and you, I’d dedicate the following journeys to them:

on the border of Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, comprise six volcanoes. Lush and verdant, with the mist casting a mystical warmth over them, the mountains are home to the famous mountain gorillas. They were also the home to Dian Fossey and her Karisoke Research Centre, where she worked to protect these incredible creatures. Her work has not gone unnoticed and much effort is made to protect the gorillas, including the offer of guided gorilla treks. As I’m an admirer, this will be followed by a hike on the Dian Fossey Tomb Trail, which leads to her tomb, where she’s buried close to

Digit, one of the gorillas with whom she established a close relationship.

SERENGETI Who wouldn’t want to be privy to one of the greatest sights on Earth? The Serengeti not only offers beautiful views of savannah landscapes and breathtaking sunsets from north Tanzania to the southwestern parts of Kenya, but it also plays host to the largest terrestrial mammal migration in the world. Over a million wildebeest and zebra trek 3 000km from the Serengeti to the Masai Mara, crossing crocodileinfested rivers and protecting their calves from predators who stay close

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/DEPOSITPHOTOS

VICTORIA FALLS I still see mom smiling happily as she was showered by the spray in the rainforest of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Known locally as Mosi oa Tunya, meaning ‘the Smoke that Thunders’, these falls are situated on the Zambezi River and mark the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Having already been to the Zimbabwean side, I’d love to hear, once again, the thunder of the falling waters and see the beautiful vegetation where the spray from the water falls repeatedly. The sight is said to be just as magical on the other side.

Virunga Mountains

VIRUNGA MOUNTAINS These mountains, located in the northern province of Rwanda and African Travel Market | 77

to their heels. While also great to view other wildlife, such as elephants, lion, leopard, buffalo, wild dogs, cheetah, I’ve heard the grunts of over one million wildebeest is mind-blowing.

Mount Kilimanjaro

MNEMBA ISLAND Africa has beautiful beaches, some of which hold Blue Flag status, but Mnemba Island, just off the northeastern tip of Zanzibar, has been said to have probably the best beach in Africa. A private tropical island, which accommodates only 20 people at a time, it offers the ultimate in comfort and luxury, where I can enjoy my own stretch of beachfront ensconced in my banda, delight in the sumptuous seafood and, if I’m not drowning in the serenity of it all, take up snorkelling, kayaking, windsurfing, diving or deep-sea fishing. The sunshine all year round is addictive.

I’ve always looked upon those who’ve already done shark-cage diving with deep envy. It certainly appeals to my sense of adventure, and if an 80-year-old grandmother from across the seas can do it, then I’m certainly up to the challenge. Gansbaai, located only two hours from Cape Town, is known as the Great White Shark capital of the world, but after the thrill of coming face to face with the predators of the oceans, this lovely land helps you settle your nerves with whalewatching, seal-spotting or enjoying the delights of the penguin colony. I look forward to some hiking and the trails offer spectacular views of fynbos and various plant species.

MOUNT KILIMANJARO I’ve heard you only need to be moderately fit to ascend the highest mountain in Africa, so cutting down

78 | African Travel Market

on a few cigarettes shouldn’t be too hard. It’ll be worth it, of course, when I make it to Uhuru Peak and take in the large glaciers that form a white heaven, as well as indulge my delight in the wildlife to be found in the Kilimanjaro National Park. How close to heaven can you get?

MOROCCO I was captured by the movie Casablanca, seeing the souks heaving with people slipping through narrow walkways bargaining for homemade goods, shoes, clothes, food, homeware and, of course, being offered mint tea. My desire to see this city, a former French colonial post, was sealed when Humphrey Bogart said, ‘Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the

world, she walks into mine.’ But did you know that Imlil, a Berber settlement atop the Atlas Mountains also talks of romance because every September in the village market square is the Festival of Betrothal? Men wear their finest white turbans and garments, while women wear their finest jewellery in the hopes of winning the heart of the man they desire. Of course, Marrakesh is where everyone says I must go, and I will go as because, as you know, there are markets, gardens, palaces and mosques and the lovely Fes el Bali is home to the oldest university in the world.

FRANSCHHOEK, SOUTH AFRICA We both know that travel is as much about the road as it is about art and food, and all roads that lead to the

PHOTOGRAPHS: DEPOSITPHOTOS

GANSBAAI

Sunset of Giza Pyramids, Egypt

quaint town of Franschhoek, in South Africa’s Western Cape Province, lead to gastronomic heaven. Whether in the peak of summer or looking upon snow-tipped mountains, Franschhoek’s restaurants still deliver the finest cuisine in the country. Together with the impressive wine culture, natural beauty and fascinating history dotted in the building architecture, Franschhoek is known as the food and wine capital of South Africa. I’ll reserve an extra place for you at every table I sit at.

EGYPT Ever since history class in high school, Egypt’s ancient sites have captured my imagination. Abu Simbel is the home of two temples that are

dazzling in their beauty, having been carved out of a sandstone cliff near the River Nile during the reign of the great Pharaoh Ramses II. The Pyramids of Giza, though well known, still attract thousands of visitors and it’s here that the Sphinx still stands. However, it is to the Valley of the Kings that I most look forward. Located on the west bank of the River Nile, this is the place where tombs for kings and other nobles were constructed and where the tomb of that youthful Pharoah, Tutankhamen, was discovered in 1922.

ST LOUIS, SENEGAL I can’t imagine a better beauty than being around people who love music and dance than the Senegalese. I love

their drums, their voices and their joy. St. Louis has a strong urban culture that makes this city welcoming and vibrant, from the Fanals, which are nighttime processions at Christmas time with giant paper lanterns, to the worldrenowned Saint-Louis Jazz Festival. If I were there all year round, I’d be at the Festival Metissons, another music festival organized by the local communities, and the annual regatta – a race between teams of fishermen. After being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, this place has grown beautifully and so has the crowd of people dancing all night long. Thank you, because it’s now a reality! Your friend, Jabulile African Travel Market | 79

PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS MARAIS/MAINLINE MEDIA Luderitz â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the windswept Namibian village at the end of the desert road

The little Atlantic fishing village of Luderitz is a delightfully windy Namibian outpost replete with ghost towns and wild horses.

riving west from Keetmanshoop, we cross a series of dry rivers called Naiams, Schnepfen and the Gurib, until we come to a mountain called Dik Willem. Just after the village of Aus the vegetation changes, opening up with lower dark mountains and drifting sands. Not more than 20km on at Garub, we come across 18 wild horses nibbling at sand and stone at the roadside. Although some have battle limps and bear signs of hard living, these legendary wild horses of the Namib are well-muscled and alert. A half-grown colt is shadowed by its indulgent black dam. Two chestnuts nuzzle one another in secret discourse. Lots of things prepare you for the faraway experience of Luderitz. There’s Aus, there are the wild horses of the Namib, there’s even an old one-horned gemsbok rooting around near the ghost town of Kolmanskop – your very own unicorn, if you are a romantic at heart.

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Then there’s the wind, a dragon of a south-wester that can whip you off your feet if you were a little light on them to begin with. That wind has also been bringing diamonds in from the sea for millions of years, but more about that in a while. As you drive through the crescentshaped dunescapes to the coast, you encounter a place that looks like a set from Toys, featuring Robin Williams. In a base of pastel desert, the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) houses are blue and red and white up there on the Diamantberg, where the Gothic old Felsenkirche looms over the town.

A HISTORY OF LUDERITZ EXPLAINED In 1883, a German merchant called Adolf Luderitz sent Heinrich Vogelsang down to these parts to establish a trading relationship with the local tribes. By then a sailor called David Radford had already settled in what was known as Angra Pequena with his wife and, subsequently, eight children. Radford

and his family collected shark oil, fish and sealskins for trade with the markets in Cape Town. Vogelsang bought the bay from the local chief Josef Fredericks from Bethanie for a hundred pounds and two hundred rifles – with accessories. A year later, it was declared a German Protectorate. An initially spurned Radford was given a life annuity for having been there in the first place, and Angra Pequena was renamed Luderitz. Thus, from this little coastal spot on the Atlantic Seaboard, began the grand German occupation of what is today called Namibia. For more than 30 years, the German flag flew over the South West – with disastrous results for the indigenous tribes. And when the South African government took over after World War One, they pursued the German policies with a matched vigour. Back in Luderitz, however, no one noticed that they were literally walking on a vast bed of super-grade diamonds until 1907, when a railroad labourer made a

PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS MARAIS/MAINLINE MEDIA

The Mother Church and the timeless Jugendstil architecture of Luderitz

The wild horses of Garub gather in the midday sun.

The courtyard at The Nest Hotel in Luderitz

spectacular find near Kolmanskop. This led to a crazy, colourful, champagne-swilling, caviar-scarfing era in which vast mansions were built into the rocks of the Diamantberg and men lay on the moonlit sands of the Namib, stuffing the glinting precious stones into their pockets and, sometimes, their mouths. The diamonds of Kolmanskop may be all gone now, but the Sperrgebiet (forbidden area) still protects those that remain on either side of the town.

A TOWN REVIVED The person to talk to about Luderitz is Marion Schelkle, who runs a touring company from her office in the midtown area. Marion is a third generation ’Buchter’ which, loosely translated, means ’bay person’. She grew up running barefoot in a tiny town that seemed to be caught in time – and growing rustier by the year. In the 1970s, Luderitz had reached its low point. There were fewer than 6 000 residents left, with half the shops

The desert sands claiming back their share of Kolmanskop.

standing empty. “The new boom began with the town’s centenary in 1983,” says Schelkle. “Everyone who’d ever been to Luderitz came to see it breathe one last time. Then UNTAG (United Nations officials) arrived in 1989 to oversee the elections and gave the local economy a massive boost.” After independence, investments flowed in: fishing plants, a revived diamond mining operation, gas mining and a whole new form of moneyspinner: tourism. What about this wind, we ask. Do you ever get used to it? She welcomes the challenge with a combative look in her eye: “Firstly, there are far windier places in the world. Secondly, we arrange our activities around it. The tours to Kolmanskop are in the mornings, when there is less wind. The wind comes up in the afternoon and wipes out the tourist footprints of the morning – the next day it looks like an untouched ghost town again.

“When Mozambique was hit by floods in 1999, the wind stopped in Luderitz for 19 days straight. We cried for the wind. It not only keeps the temperatures down, it pumps oxygen into the sea. The crayfish and other marine life suffered and died. As for getting used to it, my father used to say it’s only the first 30 years that are the hardest…” It’s Heroes’ Day in Namibia and the air in Luderitz is dead still. Hardly a breeze in the streets. We take the Diaz Cross loop drive and photograph colonies of flamingoes dancing in the mud, teasing breakfast out of the black stuff. We return at lunchtime to find Luderitz in a dozy idyll, wind-free and peaceful. Out at Shark Island, we photograph a rather startled looking resemblance of Adolf Luderitz on a brass plaque. A century ago, more than a thousand interned Nama men, women and children died here as the result of conditions in the German prisoner-of-war camp which earned the place the name of Death Island. Today, it’s a campground with the best sea views in southern Africa. The next morning we leave Luderitz before the break of dawn. At Garub, we turn off to the water hole and have an exclusive breakfast with our new friends, the wild horses. Their leader, a watchful Palomino stallion, allows us to drift near the herd and take photographs. Then, when they’ve posed for us and drunk their fill, they disappear back into the mystical desert from whence they came. Even if you only do it once in your lifetime, you have to see the world of Luderitz, that faraway place at the end of the dunefields by the sea… by Chris Marais For more information on Luderitz, visit www.namibiatourism.com.na.

African Travel Market | 83

Game drive in the Northern Cape, SA

Bushman’s Kloof Retreat and Wildlife Reserve, Western Cape, SA

PHOTOGRAPHS: SA TOURISM/BUSHMAN’S KLOOF RETREAT AND WILDLIFE RESERVE/WILDERNESS SAFARIS/

Mountain biking at Fancourt, Eastern Cape, SA

Canopy Tour at Tsitsikamma Indigenous Rain Forest, Easter Cape, SA

Little Kulala seep-out under the stars, Namibia

Mountain biking in Malawi

NO SISSIES, The saying â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Africa is not for sissiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is well known, so what are the hard and soft adventures on offer for those with a real wanderlust and adrenaline to spare?

here are not many places where you can cage dive with sharks, climb an icy glacier (in winter) or take an epic bike race through the winelands on Africa’s southern tip. That’s why people come to Africa – to challenge themselves, the elements and to let the dictates of nature show their hand.

SHARK CAGE DIVING

MOUNTAINS AND MAGIC There are plenty of mountains to climb in Africa. You could start with abseiling from Table Mountain and then perhaps progress to taking the ultimate hike to the top of Mount Kenya and/or Mount Kilimanjaro. The Great Spitzkoppe in Namibia is also an option, or you can climb the imposing Batoka Gorge in Zimbabwe, or Uganda’s Ruwenzori Mountains. Don’t disqualify the Drakensberg Mountains in KwaZulu-Natal – the entire uKhahlamba Drakensberg National Park has been declared a World Heritage Site. During the cold winter months, climbers get to scale frozen waterfalls in this part of the world. For something to tell the grandkids, The Hand of Fatima in Mali might be hard to get to, but it’s infinitely worth it for some of the best mountaineering in the world.

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RAFTING Adventure specialist and author, Jacques Marais, reckons that rafting the White Nile River from Uganda is an adrenaline rush you can’t afford to miss. In his book, Great African Adventures Hammam Spa Treatment (Published by STRUIK), he says, “All around you, tropical forest cascades onto the water’s edge, forming a dense riverine jungle where wary antelope wade and crocodile lurk. This is the ancient White Nile, a wide, tugging, liquid snake, sometimes bucking and roaring as, from its source in Uganda, it forges its way through the Great Rift Valley.“ Marais also recommends rafting the Zambezi (in the Victoria Falls region), as well as navigating the waters of the Orange River in South Africa’s Northern Cape Province and Namibia.

SURFING You can go for the soft adventure of learning to surf at one of the surf schools in Jeffreys Bay, known as the surfing

capital of South Africa. It’s pretty much anything goes and mum, dad and the kids can all participate. But, if you are a surfer of the professional type, then surfing Dungeons in Cape Town’s Hout Bay might be on your agenda. According to surfing experts, Dungeons is our answer to the huge waves in places like Waimea Bay, Hawaii.

HIKING THE FISH RIVER CANYON One of the places on every serious hiker’s bucket list has to be Namibia’s Fish River Canyon. The trail begins near the small town of Hobas and meanders for over 85km with breathtaking scenery as part of the deal. It’s not easy, but if you’re a serious hiker it’s definitely one for the list. Other great hikes include the Otter Trail along South Africa’s Garden Route.

HIGH ON LIFE Canopy tours and bridge walking are a fun option for those who want a little

PHOTOGRAPHS: LION SANDS/MORE HOTELS

South Africa is famous for its shark cage diving in a place called Gansbaai, along the Western Cape coast. Adventure-seeking visitors to South Africa always have this as one to tick off on their bucket list, but what many don’t know is that you can also go diving with tiger sharks in South Africa. The best place to do this is on the Aliwal Shoal on the KwaZulu-Natal coast. Diving with whale sharks is also an option when visiting the islands of the Seychelles.

Madagascar and Mozambique. Another spot that is well known for ocean paddling is South Africa’s False Bay, but adventurers should keep a keen eye out for sharks.

20 AFRICAN ACTIVITIES OR EXPERIENCES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS!

Bush walks in the Sabi Sand Reserve

bit of a softer adventure. The good news for those visiting South Africa is that the canopy tour at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden in Cape Town will soon be complete. However, in South Africa there are numerous canopy tours available in the Tsitsikamma, Magaliesburg and KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. The Kakum Forest Canopy Walkway in Ghana is an absolute must if you’re visiting this part of the world – being suspended on a walkway above the green lung of the forest is exhilarating.

SAY, BUNGEE! If you’re of the bungee persuasion, then of course you have to try out the jump at Bloukrans Bridge, known as the highest commercial bungee jump in the world at 216m high. The bungee jump from the bridge at Victoria Falls is also a highlight, although no one will easily forget a certain Australian tourist dealing with the fact that her rope broke and she plunged into the water below.

Miraculously, she survived with her body intact and her ego only a little bruised.

GETTING THE HANG OF IT Paragliding from the slopes of Cape Town’s Lion’s Head seems to be a winner with holidaymakers to the Atlantic Seaboard, although they generally need to get the locals to show them how. Base-jumping in Cape Town is also pretty popular. For the softer option, hot-air ballooning over the winelands or over the bushveld is a more genteel way to experience adventure; it is also popular in Namibia.

KAYAKING/BOATING/ CANOEING Taking a mokoro (dugout boat) or kayak journey is a great way to enjoy nature’s fine offerings. Nothing beats the romance of a mokoro out in the Okavango swamps. Sea kayaking safaris are also on offer around Lamu Island, off the coast of Kenya, and in places like the Seychelles, Mauritius,

1. Gorilla trekking in the Congo. 2. A dinner on the beach, Mnemba Island. 3. Whale watching on the west coast of South Africa. 4. See the flamingos at the Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania. 5. The Serengeti during the Great Migration in Kenya. 6. The Festival of the Desert in Douz, Tunisia. 7. Crocodile cage diving in the Karoo. 8. Go on a 4x4 trail in the Cederberg, Namibia or Dakar. 9. Experience the magnificent Sardine Run in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. 10. Hike to the White Lady of the Brandberg in Namibia. 11. Do the ABSA Cape Epic (mountain bike race) in South Africa. 12. Go fishing in the Bazaruto Archipelago. 13. See the Great Zimbabwe ruins. 14. Fly over the South Luangwa Valley (Zambia) in a light aircraft. 15. Eat fresh crab straight off the boat on Wasini Island off the coast of Kenya. 16. Meet the Himba people of Namibia and learn a bit more about their culture. 17. Stay with the Khomani San in the Northern Cape to learn about their survival techniques and ancient ways. 18. Go pony trekking into Lesotho, SA. 19. Attend the festival of the masks in Burkina Faso. 20. Attend Afrika Burn in the Tankwa Karoo National Park, South Africa. African Travel Market | 87

Boats outside Elmina

Ghana is an exotic, colourful and challenging destination… offering the perfect holiday for type-A personalities and other stimulation junkies.

Cannons at Cape Coast Castle overlooking the Atlantic Ocean

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/DEPOSITPHOTOS

Monument and tomb for the unknown soldier in Independence Square, Accra

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, Accra

f Nigeria is the rebellious teenager of Africa, then Ghana is the kind older brother. Wherever you go in this crazy country, there is a sense of tolerance towards all and sundry, although I have a sneaky suspicion that foreign tourists do get a little bit of extra-special attention. Many refer to Ghana as the armpit of the world. I like to think this has less to do with Third World conditions and more to do with its position on the African continent. Sitting snugly between Togo and Côte d'Ivoire on the Gulf of Guinea, Ghana is one of the most exciting destinations in West Africa. One arrives to a friendly welcome at Ghana’s Kotoka International Airport. “Akwaaba!“ is the standard greeting and the airport officials seem like a carefree bunch. However, arriving in Ghana is the easy part. Travelling around the place is another story altogether. One should be warned at the outset – travelling around Accra (and, for that matter, the rest of Ghana) could be a hair-raising experience. Take the Rescue Remedy along and ask your guardian angel for some extra-special attention. As they say, Africa is not for sissies! Once you accept the frenetic activity on the potholed roads and Accra’s famous peak-hour traffic jams, what you’ll witness from the window of your hired taxi is a sight to behold. Accra’s main streets are moving, thriving bazaars. Think nothing of buying underwear, fresh fish, children’s puzzles, wall maps, bathroom taps, hula-hoops and potato crisps from the car window while you sit and wait for the traffic to sort itself out. For most people staying over in Accra for a night or two, the Labadi Beach area is the place of choice. Labadi boasts a

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number of excellent hotels and great beaches that are perfect for a lazy sundowner, while listening to a djembe orchestra in the background. However, modest accommodation is also available further along the coast. The Next Door Beach Hotel and Restaurant along Beach Road in Teshie (not far from Labadi) is a great choice. Situated right on the ocean, this modest hotel/motel offers a comfy bed for the night, with hot running water and a decent sized en suite bathroom. The hotel’s restaurant is the perfect place to hang out and snack on fresh fish and plantain chips as the waves crash dramatically on the rocks below. From here access to Accra’s city centre is pretty easy, as long as your timing is right – forget about moving anywhere during peak hour. A good starting point is the Arts Centre Market, a.k.a. the Centre for National Culture. Here, beaded masks, kente cloth, African artworks and creative curios are all on sale. Haggling

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is the order of the day, so you had better get used to it, and quickly too. It’s important to note that the taxi drivers in Accra are also pretty clued up on showing people around their city, and for a few extra cedi they will be happy to explore places, such as Independence Square and Osu Castle, Makola Market, Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum and the WEB Du Bois Memorial Centre for African Culture. They’ll also know all the hot and happening live music venues and jazz bars on the main drag – definitely worth a visit after the sun goes down. It’s probably a good idea to spend two to three days in Accra because there is so much on the go. However, one cannot visit Ghana without exploring further. Places like the Cape Coast, the Ashanti region and even trips to the Lake Volta region are all worthwhile. The Cape Coast is generally first on the itinerary – the famous slave forts are found along this coastline. Getting away from the urban buzz

of Accra opens up a whole new world. Tropical forests hug the main roads and there are little villages and rural dwellings everywhere. God is certainly alive and well in this part of the world: as you travel, you see a multitude of references to the Almighty and every second shop is named after something religious, i.e. Blood of the Lamb Carpet Cleaners, God is Good Textiles, Anointed Barber and Hairstylist. Along the Cape Coast, Kakum National Park, on the way to Elmina, is an exciting stopover, especially for nature enthusiasts. The 350m rope and cable canopy walk over the forest is one of only five in the world. Kakum is beautifully kept and the bird and animal life are abundant in this green lung. The canopy walkway, about 30m above the forest floor, has seven viewing platforms that are linked by swaying bridges. Visitors can also take a guided walk through Kakum National Forest, with the guided night walk being a major highlight.

PHOTOGRAPH: DEPOSITPHOTOS

Lake Volta, the largest reservoir by surface area in the world (8 502km2)

The area of Elmina, close to Kakum, is home to the notorious St George’s Castle and Fort St Jago (known to many as ‘Elmina Castle’). This melancholy monument to slavery is a must-see on any traveller’s itinerary and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its historical value. From the castle, the views of the harbour and the town are breathtaking. The Gold Coast is a popular tourist area, with a growing market of AfricanAmericans arriving in search of their ancestry, and there are a number of good hotels in the area. Ghana is recognising the value of Slave Trail Tourism and there are a number of packages available that retrace slave history in this part of the world. On the other side of the spectrum, tourism hasn’t really exploited Ghana, meaning that there are a number of beaches that are yours for the taking. Winneba Beach and Gomoa Fetteh Beach are some of the best beaches around. At Winneba, the

beach stretches on for miles and miles, framed by clichéd palm trees stretching on beyond the horizon. A day trip to Kumasi, home of the Ashanti Kingdom of Gold, is another major highlight on any trip to Ghana. If you’re as lucky as we were, you may catch a glimpse of the King of Ashanti in all his golden regalia. The Manhyia Palace Museum and National Cultural Centre in Kumasi are also worth exploring. Ghana has really woken up to tourism in a big way and there is something for every traveller, from arts and crafts tours, to gourmet cuisine safaris (learn to cook fufu, fried yam balls and palava), slave tours and batik workshops. If you’re looking for something completely different, then arrange a drumming and dancing weekend on the Gold Coast with Ghana’s only female master drummer. For those who are more communityminded, there are a number of grassroots adventures available, including staying with the local people at a fishing village. For the sporty types, there is a canoe trip through the mangrove jungle of the Ankobra River or the super-fit can go on an endurance nature tour involving biking through towns and villages, or canoeing on rivers, etc. The Volta Lake Cruise sounds like another exotic option, as does the Volta Eco Adventure tour, where you hike through the Agumata Forest Reserve to the Wli Water Falls (the highest waterfall in both Ghana and West Africa), followed by an early dawn visit to the monkey sanctuary at Tafi Atome. So, if you’re looking for an enlightening and exciting holiday adventure, go and experience Ghana for yourself. As the Ashanti saying goes, “Only when you have crossed the river, can you say the crocodile has a lump on his snout.“ by Denise Slabbert

ESSENTIAL INFO Ghana offers a holiday for the more adventurous traveller. This is not your average sun, sea and sand destination, although all three are thrown in for good measure. Highlights at a glance:  Accra’s nightlife – particularly live music venues  Kakum National Park  Elmina and other slave trade sites  The Cape Coast  Ashanti Kingdom  Winneba Beach  Shopping up a storm at the local markets.  Learning to cook traditional Ghanaian fare  An upper Volta Cruise  Wildlife: visit the elephants at Mole National Park, the hippos at Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary and the monkeys at Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary  Tasting fufu for the first time… or not Getting Around Taxis are relatively inexpensive and the drivers often moonlight as tour guides. Note that many of the car-hire companies don’t hire out vehicles unless you hire a driver as well. Accommodation Spoiled for choice, accommodation in Ghana ranges from B&Bs and guesthouses at very reasonable rates, to four- and five-star hotels. For information on:  Elmina Beach Resort on the Cape Coast, visit www.gbhghana.com.  Next Door Beach Hotel, visit www.next-door.com.  Ghana and all its offerings, visit its tourism website at www. ghanatourism.gov.gh.

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GREAT AFRICAN

PHOTOGRAPH: THE BLUE TRAIN

Train journeys

The Blue Train

While the Boeing 747 may be the faster, more appealing option for the traveller intent on getting from point A to point B in good time, an old-fashioned train ride is arguably more romantic, with the journey itself, in many, cases serving as a destination of sorts.

he tracks glistening in the early evening light, the ‘Smoke that Thunders’ (Victoria Falls) creating a light rain in the distance, the sound of the train pulling out the station as passengers sip on their gins and tonics from the glass-walled Observer lounge as the African bush moves by rhythmically… surely there is nothing more romantic than taking a train trip in Africa? The good news is that there are various appealing options for the traveller wanting to discover the splendour of Africa by train. We take a brief look at some of them.

ROVOS RAIL Operating out of Capital Park Station in Pretoria (the only privately owned railway station in South Africa), Rovos Rail affords its travellers the opportunity to travel in style in authentic locomotives and coaches that have been painstakingly restored – wood panelling and all. There is a variety of journeys available, ranging from a 1 600km meander from Pretoria to Cape Town, to the 28-day Cairo journey, which carries the more adventurous travellers through the heartlands of South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Uganda, Sudan and Egypt by train and air. Other journeys include: Pretoria to Victoria Falls, Pretoria to Durban, Pretoria to Namibia, Cape Town to Dar es Salaam, as well as two nineday safaris that cater for golfers as well as their non-playing guests. Established in 1989, Rovos has earned a reputation as a provider of the finest luxury train journeys in the Southern Hemisphere. The company aims to maintain the spirit of travel of a bygone eraand this African Travel Market | 93

is reflected in the fact that there are no radios or televisions on board, as well as in the Victorian atmosphere of the dining cars. It’s not surprising then that the London Daily Mail recommended Rovos Rail for “those of you who want to discover Africa in the woodpanelled, gleaming five-star luxury of a bygone era“. Visit www.rovos. com or call +27 (0)12 315 8242. E-mail reservations@rovos.co.za.

BLUE TRAIN

DESERT EXPRESS The Desert Express takes travellers on an amazing journey through the beautiful landscapes of Namibia, following a timetable that’s designed to coincide with sunrises and sunsets. This train travels from Windhoek in the central highlands of Namibia to Swakopmund on the Atlantic coast. There’s also a longer safari option that includes Walvis Bay and game drives in the Etosha National Park. The modern interior of the train, which caters for just 48 guests at a time, is designed in colours and motifs reminiscent of Namibia. Passengers have access to the elegant Spitzkoppe Lounge, which, like the entire train, is fully airconditioned, and features a unique chess table on which black and white squares have been made from the sand of the Namib Desert. Meals are served in a silver-service dining car,

where options include international cuisine as well as local specialities like game and ostrich.

PREMIER CLASSE One of South Africa’s newer luxury train services, the Shosholoza Meyl Premier Classe caters for 126 guests in spacious compartments, with ensuite bathrooms, accommodating one to four travellers each. It operates three routes at present: Johannesburg-Cape TownJohannesburg, JohannesburgPort Elizabeth-Johannesburg, and Johannesburg-DurbanJohannesburg. A four-course lunch and five-course dinner are served in the elegant dining car, while an afternoon high tea can be enjoyed in the lounge car, where aperitifs and after-dinner drinks are also on offer. Visit www.southafricanrailways.co.za or call +27 (0)11 773 9247.

SHONGOLOLO EXPRESS The Shongololo Express traverses nine countries in southern Africa: Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Zambia, as well as Tanzania in East Africa. Its routes include Cape Town-Johannesburg,

PHOTOGRAPHS: ROVOS RAIL/THE BLUE TRAIN

In existence for over 60 years now, the Blue Train is one of South Africa’s best-known tourist attractions. Travellers have the option of a Pretoria-Cape Town or a Cape Town-Pretoria journey. There’s also the Pretoria-Durban option, which includes two nights on the train as well as two nights at the luxurious golfers’ paradise at Zimbali Lodge, and the Pretoria-Bakubung Game Lodge bonanza. Accommodation on the ‘Blue Jewel’, as it is popularly known, is in luxurious suites that come complete with individually controlled airconditioning and an entertainment centre with a choice of movie and radio channels. The suites have

underfloor heating in the rooms and bathrooms, and butlers are at hand to complete the experience. Visit www.bluetrain.co.za or call +44 140 324 3619 (Ethos Marketing, UK representative). E-mail info@ethosmarketing.co.uk.

Rovos Rail

Johannesburg-Victoria Falls and Johannesburg-Windhoek. This train is unique in that each train carries a fleet of air-conditioned Mercedes-Benz touring vehicles, as well as professional guides (who speak English, German, Dutch and French) on board, ensuring that off-rail activities are a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Visit www. shongologo.com or call +27 (0)11 486 4357. by Fatima Asmal

A friendly butler on the Blue Train

THE MAN IN SEAT 61 ALSO RECOMMENDS… Mark Smith, better known as ‘the man in seat 61’ after his multiple award-winning travel website, www.seat61.com, recommends:  The Bulawayo-Victoria Falls train journey, operated by National Railways of Zimbabwe.“ This classic overnight train is the way to reach Vic Falls from Bulawayo, even though (given Zim’s economic situation) it's now getting down-at-heel. But don't be put off; ignore anyone telling you to spend a night in a cramped bus seat (or worse, fly), don't miss this amazing rail travel experience, a classic piece of history with Britishbuilt coaches, some with woodpanelled interiors, dating from 1952 and 1958,“ he says.  Travelling by train in Morocco. “The trains in Morocco are some of the best in Africa, and they’re the ideal choice for getting around between cities. Fast, modern, air-conditioned ’trains rapides climatisés’ link Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakech, Meknès, Fez & Oujda,“ says Smith. Source: www.seat61.com

Aerial view of Rovos Rail

Scenic view from the dining carof the Blue Train

A luxury suite on the Blue Train

LIFE’S A CRUISE here’s nothing quite as splendid as a cruise ship – a luxury, floating home away from home, where all there is to do is indulge a little in a rather romantic way of moving around the globe. For many South Africans, going on an Indian Ocean cruise is a tempting option. Durban is loved for its yearround beach weather and relaxed pace, as well as for its culturally diverse population, which means the cuisine on offer is a mix of African, English and Indian. Durban has also built a reputation as Africa’s busiest and bestmanaged port. From time to time, luxury cruise ships wait in Durban’s harbour – ready to take travellers away to places such as Mozambique, and the islands of Seychelles and Mauritius – although even the ‘luxury going nowhere cruise’ is also an option (no stopover, just a three-day experience on the ship indulging in fine food and a great sense of bonhomie). Favourable weather conditions, the warm waters of the Indian Ocean and beautiful destinations have made cruises heading out from this coastal city a firm favourite with travellers. These days, there are a variety of options available. MSC Starlight Cruises are a win when it comes to exploring this part of the world – and their website has different options and cruises on a very busy cruising calendar. MSC Starlight offers a variety of regularly scheduled cruise options leaving from Durban, including Durban-Mozambique, Durban-Mozambique-Madagascar,

PHOTOGRAPH: ROLAND ELLIS

If you’re looking to experience a dream-like cruise, why not set sail from Durban?

The deck of the MSC Starlight

SILVER WIND From time to time, something a little different comes along in the cruising stakes. Earlier this year, passengers could book their space to cruise from Durban to Mauritius on the elegant Silversea Luxury Cruises liner, Silver Wind, which has been upgraded to include a new ocean-view spa, an observation lounge and eight new suites. Accommodating just 296 guests with 222 crew members, this silver beauty features a boutique, internet café and library, as well as a beauty salon, fitness centre and pool deck. There’s also a casino, pool bar and grill on board. On-board activities include fun of the old-fashioned sort – bingo, casino gaming lessons, and culinary demonstrations – but there is also golf putting, spa treatments, lectures and wine-tasting get-togethers. This particular ship is not geared for children as there aren’t any kiddie facilities or play areas.

Cruising the Indian Ocean.

A CRUISING CULINARY JOURNEY All aboard if you’re in search of a culinary experience with your Durban cruise! Start off with feasting on authentic Durban curries (and bunny chow) when in the city, jump aboard the ship and it’s pasta, gelato and coffees all the way. And when you dock in Mozambique, it’s all cerveza and prawns with your feet in the sand and your heart in cruise heaven.

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For information about these cruises, visit: Durban harbour

 www.msccruises.co.za  www.silversea.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARKVEE PHOTOGRAPHY/DERRYN SEMPLE/KZN BUNKERS

Durban-Namibia and DurbanMauritius. One can also travel from Durban harbour to Cape Town. The MSC Opera does the DurbanMozambique route (with various stopovers, including Bazaruto, Inhambane and Portuguese Island). The MSC Opera is a stately ship, with a touch of Italian flair – lots of intricate woodwork, gorgeous windows that frame the sea view and fantastic facilities that cater to the whole family. The MSC Opera prides itself on offering everything authentically Italian – from espresso and ice cream, to lessons in the language and, last but not least, evening entertainment in the Teatro dell’Opera. The MSC group is particularly childfriendly, which means cruising as a family is ideal. Children under the age of 17 sail free of charge (conditions apply) and parents have the option of signing them up for complimentary kids programmes, each tailored to a specific age group (Mini Club for 3- to 6-yearolds; Junior Club for 7- to 11-year-olds; Y-Team for 12- to 14-year-olds, and MSC Generation Teen Club for 12- to 14-year-olds). There are designated kiddies’ play areas on board, as well as sporting, arts, crafts and theatre activities, with a special children’s menu. by Fatima Asmal

From open plains to open skies, Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s burgeoning airline offering is opening up the globe.

Photograph: Hansueli Krapf

african airlines

frican countries have long been considered challenging as destinations for both leisure and business travellers, but this perception has gradually been broken down in recent years with the growth in African airlines on offer. Not only are African airlines working consistently to open up access to the continent, they are also ensuring that various countries can be positioned as global hubs that offer alternative routing for

established airlines from other parts of the world. This was demonstrated late in 2013, when Kenya Airways announced an expansion of its firm agreement with Dutch airline KLM. The agreement saw the addition of four new routes, complementing the existing joint venture between the two airlines, which implemented a daily route between Amsterdam in the Netherlands and Nairobi in Kenya. This cooperation agreement will in future see the expansion of the Kenya Airways network to bring

passengers from Europe destined for popular destinations in Africa, such as Entebbe, Lusaka and Harare. Kenya Airwaysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Group Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer, Titus Naikuni, reflects on the agreementâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success: â&#x20AC;&#x153;I am proud of the longstanding and successful partnership between KLM and Kenya Airways, both as shareholders, and also business partners. We saw a tremendous development of our route network, particularly in the early years of the joint venture, by focusing our

PHOTOGRAPH: ACSA

OR Thambo International Airport, Johannesburg, SA

attention through only limited hubs in Europe, allowing our expansion in Africa.” In a bid to increase passengers from Europe to its own destination, Air Namibia has launched a new campaign that speaks to the ease of flying directly from Frankfurt to Windhoek. Xavier Masule, General Manager: Commercial Services at Air Namibia, says that in order to access European beyond markets optimally, Air Namibia must forge strategic alliances with airlines operating in Europe. “It is necessary for Air Namibia to partner with appropriate airlines to feed into our flights at Frankfurt. Frankfurt is Lufthansa’s hub and this makes Lufthansa the most appropriate and ideal airline to partner with,” he says. An expanding route network across Africa is not, however,

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the only development in African airspace. Many African airlines are in the process of upgrading their fleets to meet demand and improve their offerings to customers. Air Algeria confirmed its order for three Airbus A330-200s and eight Boeing 737-800s at the start of 2014, in a bid to bolster its growing presence. In addition, the airline has confirmed that it intends to sign a deal for three 70-seat ATR 72600s, as well as two additional cargo aircraft. The airline’s CEO, Salah Boutif, said of the deals: “This will help us reinforce domestic and international routes.” Infrastructure development to support larger aircraft is well underway at many airports, including a long-overdue revamp of the Victoria Falls International Airport in Zimbabwe. The

destination itself is again growing in popularity for leisure tourists and plans are afoot to renovate the existing buildings of the airport, as well as construct a new 4 000m runway that will service larger aircraft. The longer runway is intended to attract direct flights from the Americas, Europe and Asia. In this decade alone, South African Airways has consistently evaluated routes and opened up destinations within Africa that were not often serviced by reliable airline partners. This has allowed increased numbers of passengers into Southern Africa, and indeed other parts of Africa, that are not only leisure travellers, but also business travellers and international investors bringing opportunities to the continent. Recent accolades achieved by African airports are also proof of the mettle of the aviation industry

in Africa. Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International Airport was capped as the Best Airport in Africa at the recent SKYTRAX 2014 World Airport Awards* held in Spain. Bongani Maseko, Airports Company South Africa’s Managing Director., said, “As a company, we continually strive to improve our

customer service by ensuring that our airports unreservedly meet passengers’ needs. The awards announcement comes as we all celebrate South Africa’s 20 years of democracy and having reflected on Airports Company South Africa’s 20 years of business excellence in 2013.” Mauritius, Ethiopia, Egypt and

Morocco were all named as countries with airports that fall into the top 10 ranking for Africa by SKYTRAX, proving again that the African aviation industry is well and truly a burgeoning enterprise set on good service, profitability and the opening up of air access to the continent. by Kate Els

SKYTRAX - TOP AIRPORTS IN AFRICA

Rank

Airport

City

Country

OR Tambo International Airport

Johannesburg

South Africa

Cape Town International Airport

Cape Town

South Africa

King Shaka International Airport

Durban

South Africa

Mauritius International Airport

Port Louis

Mauritius

Cairo International Airport

Cairo

Egypt

East London Airport

East London

South Africa

Port Elizabeth Airport

Port Elizabeth

South Africa

Bloemfontein Airport

Bloemfontein

South Africa

Addis Ababa Bole Int'l Airport

Addis Ababa

Ethiopia

Marrakech Menara Int'l Airport

Marrakech

Morocco

SKYTRAX World Airport Awards are the world's leading and most prestigious Airport Awards, based on the largest Airport Customer Survey.

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SIMPLY STUNNING SPAS PHOTOGRAPH: THE OYSTER BOX HOTEL

Health and wellness are big business in the tourism industry these days, and South Africa and Africa have some world-class spas.

The spa at The Oyster Box Hotel in Umhlanga, KwaZulu-Natal

he spa industry has grown in leaps and bounds over the past decade, and most topclass establishments have some form of on-site wellness offering. South Africa is well known for some of its fantastic spas – whether urban day spas, destination spas or bush spas, there is something for every need. Here are some of the standout spas that are definitely worth a visit. The Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa in Johannesburg is a tranquil spot away from the dynamic business hubs of Sandton and Rosebank. The beautiful hotel is surrounded by gorgeous gardens and the spa is a perfect hideaway for an afternoon of pampering. A wide range of treatments is on offer, including a special Tibetan sound therapy room designed to ensure deep relaxation, adding variety to the experience, and if you’re having a bad hair day, there’s a salon that forms part of the spa. In KwaZulu-Natal, The Oyster Box Hotel has an award-winning spa that is a welcome addition to this ageold family hotel, which had a serious revamp a few years back and is now known as one of the top holiday spots on the KwaZulu-Natal coast. The hammam spa treatment is a popular choice and there are also couples treatments on offer in this intimate and stylish spa. Finish off your day with a massage, followed by a glass of champagne next to the pool. In Mpumalanga, the Summerfields Rose Retreat Spa in Hazyview is situated on the Sabie River and includes a lodge, spa restaurant and a deli set on Summerfields Rose Farm. The farm is renowned for its hybrid tea, roses and macadamia nuts and offers the ultimate getaway.

Treatments in the spa pavilion on the banks of the river are the stuff of which memories are made. You could also make your way to the Kruger National Park for a bit of game viewing before or after your treatments. Cape Town is a well-known spa destination and top spas include the one at The Twelve Apostles Hotel on the Atlantic Seaboard. This spa has won numerous awards and there really is nothing to beat a massage in an outdoor gazebo among the fynbos with a view of the ocean. The One&Only Cape Town Spa is in a league of its own, with a ‘spa island’ beautifully situated in the shadow of gorgeous Table Mountain. A wide range of special treatments is on offer, and this spa is a calm refuge, where every health and beauty need is taken care of. Heading out of Cape Town, the Bushmans Kloof Wildernss Reserve and Wellness Retreat is good for body, mind and soul. Regular retreats are held at this spa, which focuses on getting back in touch with nature. As a bonus, you can enjoy walks into the Cederberg Mountains to explore the rock art in the area. Babylonstoren Garden Spa in the Cape Winelands is a designer spa with a gorgeous aesthetic. In fact, everything about Babylonstoren is absolutely gorgeous! Again, a range of treatments and therapies is on offer. Make sure you take the time to stroll around the gardens after your treatments and perhaps book a luncheon at the legendary Babel Restaurant. The Tswalu Kalahari Spa in the Northern Cape is a place to truly get away from it all – and the lunar landscapes of the surrounding Kalahari give one space to contemplate and enjoy a bit of pampering in a place that allows one to breathe. Tswalu

has recently introduced individualised yoga classes as part of its health and wellness offering.

BUSH SPAS The bush spa concept has been around for some time and the top lodges in Africa all boast some form of spa offering – even if it’s having a massage on the deck of your luxury suite as you overlook the bushveld. High-end lodges, including Ulusaba Private Game Reserve (Richard Branson’s South African game lodge), Singita, Sabi Sabi and Royal Malewane all have excellent spas; just the thing after a dusty day out on a game drive.

SPA-ING, FURTHER AFIELD Africa has many notable spas to speak of, including those on the Indian Ocean Islands. The Spa at the Four Seasons Resort, The Banyan Tree Spa and MAIA Spa at MAIA Luxury Resort in the Seychelles, and The Ayurveda Spa at Maradiva Villas Resort, So Spa at Sofitel Imperial and Sanctuary Residence in Mauritius are just a few notable establishments that have gained accolades worldwide. Further into Africa, the Royal Zambezi Lodge Bush Spa is Zambia’s first and only bush spa, and one of the global award winners in the 2013 Best Luxury Hotel Awards. The Serena Maisha Spa at Nairobi Serena Hotel and the Six Sense Spa at InterContinental The Palace Port Ghalib Resort Hotel in Egypt were also recognised at these awards. YOGA SAFARIS Kenya has also woken up to the wellness trend and there are a few operators offering yoga safaris, including Rift Valley Adventures, which offers a seven-day yoga safari in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

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Enjoy a massage in an outdoor gazebo at The Twelve Apostles Hotel on the Atlantic Seaboard Babylonstoren Garden Spa in the Cape Winelands

PHOTOGRAPHS: THE TWELVE APOSTLES HOTEL/ULUSABA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE/ BABYLONSTOREN GARDEN SPA/THE ONE&ONLY CAPE TOWN

Outdoor massage at Ulusaba Private Game Reserve, owned by Sir Richard Branson, in the Sabi Sand Reserve

PHOTOGRAPHS: THE TWELVE APOSTLES HOTEL/ULUSABA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE/ BABYLONSTOREN GARDEN SPA/THE ONE&ONLY CAPE TOWN

Babylonstoren Garden Spa

The island spa at the One&Only Cape Town

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Baobab alley, Madagascar

PHOTOGRAPHS: DEPOSITPHOTOS/DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

OF MADNESS

In Madagascar, everything is unusual. From the quirky lemurs to giant chameleons, neon-coloured frogs and the eerie spiny forest, Madagascar is an island that seems to be lost in time and entirely separate from the known world. “Wake up, they’re dancing. Three of them together,” alerted our guide Dodi. Through early morning eyes we saw them, sidestepping in the red dust. Then they would turn to face the opposite direction and carry on their sideways dance, arms held high and legs crisscrossing in mid-air with each strange leap. All the time they would stare straight ahead as if in a trance, their black faces mimicking the expression of startled teddy bears. These are the sifakas of Berenty – the dancing lemurs of southern Madagascar. They alone are worth the trip. Berenty Reserve in the south is home to these strangely human sifakas and the cat-like ring-tailed lemurs. Ringtails walk on all fours, have the swagger of a bandy-legged cowboy and the audacious attitude of a monkey. With their tails held up straight, swaying like reeds in the wind, the ringtails filter through the reserve on morning and evening sorties and will pilfer whatever they can, meowing like cats as they go. Also in Berenty is the spiny forest, which resembles a prehistoric scene; tall spires of thorn-covered woody forest tower into the air and appear quite surreal – especially at night. This is where the nocturnal lemurs live, identified by the reflective colour of their eyes in the torch beam. “All day these lemurs are tucked up in tree holes like bugs in a rug,“ muses Dodi, “their day only starts at night.” Madagascar has 50 species of lemur, and at least 15 species have already gone extinct since the arrival of man on the island. The lemurs range in size from the pygmy mouse lemur, which can sit in an eggcup, to the piebald teddy-bear-like indri – weighing

in at about seven kilograms. Indris live in the montane rainforest of Perinet Reserve in central Madagascar, and share the rainforest with giant Parson’s chameleons – up to two feet long – and an assortment of brightly coloured frogs, birds and boa constrictors. These elusive lemurs spend their lives high up in the forest canopy, and only descend to the ground to lick soil for minerals. Indris don’t ‘dance’; rather, they ‘sing’. Because their territories are huge, they defend them with song, rather than scent. Their ‘singing’ is reminiscent of whale song, interspersed with occasional shrill siren sounds, and is most often heard just before dawn. The indris provide a haunting start to the day, and leave a lasting memory of Perinet – along with tree ferns, travellers’ palms, wild trumpet lilies and roses, and a tangle of forest that is the indris’ private sanctuary. Back in the bustle of Antananarivo, you’d be excused for believing you’d arrived in an enormous playground. Multi-coloured, multi-storeyed houses cling desperately to the hillsides and have the appearance of Lego constructions. In-between on lower, more level areas are rice paddies, resembling patchwork throws in shades of green. And scattered between wherever space allows, is washing, carefully arranged on the grass to dry and crisp in the sun. The capital is home to two million of the country’s 14 million people, and is rated by many travellers as one of the most charming developing cities. The colours are vibrant and the atmosphere is buzzing. Old Renaults and Citroens swarm through the city’s narrow streets in a mesh of traffic chaos, and with

Parson’s chameleon

Multi-coloured, multi-storeyed houses of Antananarivo

Fisherman fashionistas

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Photographs: depositphotos

no robots the traffic jams are nothing less than impressive. Drivers simply switch off their engines and socialise in the streets until there’s a sign of vehicle movement. The jams provide constant entertainment for roadside residents, who press their faces to their windows in wonder. Filtering between the vehicles too, are throngs of street children, who appear as filthy fairies begging at car windows. In Madagascar, poverty is extreme and 80 percent of the population is considered poor. In many parts of the country, zebu cattle are still the equivalent of a bank account and are a yardstick of wealth. The rickety-looking cattle, with long horns and loose skins for heat dispersal, graze lazily between the rice fields and are the pride and joy of their owners. Zebus are sacrificed for certain important occasions, act as mules to draw carts and wagons, and decorate the tombs of the dead to indicate the importance of the deceased to the ancestors. At the market, zebu horn is crafted into spoons for sale, along with other traditional work in raffia and leather, real fossil shells and handmade paper. Still, you don’t visit Madagascar for the crafts or city life. You go there for the vibrancy that is both French and African, a people with broad smiles and colourful lives, and to see a country that exists completely apart from the world, both East and West. Madagascar is an island alone, which is why it’s home to some of the most unique and eccentric fauna and flora to be found on earth. Dancing sifakas, teddy-bear indris, lush rainforests, eerie spiny forests, neon-coloured frogs, huge chameleons, carnivorous pitcher plants and an array of animals that consider camouflage an art – these are all fair reasons to visit Madagascar. Yet, through the mirage of heat

and tropical lethargy, staggering poverty and extreme natural beauty, is a country and people that are difficult to define. Madagascar exudes magic and mystery, roughness and realness that you both love and loathe at various times. Though poor to the bone, the Malagasy have made time and space to conserve their endangered, endearing and often-comical wildlife in small well-tended reserves. It may be taboo in certain places to hand an egg directly to a person,

without first putting it on the ground, or to work in the rice paddies on Tuesdays and Thursdays. In certain villages, it is even taboo to talk about crocodiles or whistle on certain beaches, as this is seen as disrespectful to the ancestors. “But,” as Dodi states with unusual seriousness, “it’s the worst taboo to kill a lemur.” The ancestors would not be pleased with such practice, and keeping them happy is paramount. After all it’s their mad and magical island. The rest of us are just passing through. by Keri Harvey

Ring-tailed lemur

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The Tumulus – the Visitor’s Centre at Maropeng

THE CRADLE OF

HUMANKIND he Cradle of Humankind is a site of 47 000 hectares northwest of Johannesburg which has yielded such a rich wealth of human ancestor fossils that it has been declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO), indicating its significance to people worldwide.

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The scientific evidence unearthed in this location strongly suggests this is where the ancestors of mankind first stood erect, going on to evolve into what we know as modern humans. The area, as the birthplace of modern man, was thus named the Cradle of Humankind. Large amounts of stone tools also found here give clues as to how our ancestors mastered the tasks of hammering, crushing and cutting. The Cradle’s fossil finds number

over 1 000 and have been excavated from some 13 sites. Particularly famed are the limestone caverns of the Sterkfontein Caves, where two finds, affectionately dubbed ‘Mrs Ples’ and ‘Little Foot’ have vastly enriched our knowledge of our origins. Mrs Ples is the most complete skull ever found of the species Australopithecus africanus, thought to be a direct ancestor of Homo sapiens, or humans. Identified by

PHOTOGRAPH: MAROPENG VISITORS’ CENTRE

One of Africa’s great treasures is The Cradle of Humankind – home to our ancient ancestors and a place that links us to our origins.

PHOTOGRAPHS: RYAN JAMES/DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

Statue of Robert Broome at the Sterkfontein Caves

scientist Robert Broome, the fossil is over 2 million years old. Despite some debate on its gender, the Mrs seems to stick. Little Foot, found more recently by palaeontologist Ron Clarke, is now fully excavated and is a near-complete skeleton of a male, possibly belonging to a species named Australopithecus prometheus. The skeleton is estimated to be 3 to 4 million years old. Scientists believe he was smaller than most modern humans, with a smaller brain. He walked upright but had powerful hands and a slightly divergent big toe, making him adept at climbing. He slept in trees at night, out of the way of predators, such as sabre-toothed cats and hunting hyenas that were prevalent at the time. His death, they hypothesise, was caused by a fall into a covered cave some 10m deep. More recently in 2010, Wits University’s Lee Berger discovered

Australopithecus sediba at another Cradle site called Malapa. To great excitement, Berger displayed two skeletons – one of a young boy and the other a female adult – at the Iziko South African Museum in Cape Town; at Maropeng, the official visitor centre in the Cradle, and at the Origins Centre on the campus of Wits University. Subsequently, he has identified a total of six individuals from Malapa, and the work of his team on various aspects of these finds received worldwide recognition. A tour deep into the bowels of the Sterkfontein Caves is thus a highlight of a visit to the Cradle. The tunnels are narrow in places and require some belly-crawling, but the experience is well worth any temporary discomfort. At the end of the tour, the visitor comes across bronze busts of Broome and Phillip Tobias, another famous

South African who has done much to further palaeoanthopology. Ahead of the tour, there’s an introductory exhibition that provides intriguing information on cave formation and geology and the evolution of early life forms – both animal and human. Most of the other ‘digs’ in the Cradle are closed to the public, but tours led by specialist palaeontologists can be undertaken at Drimolen and Swartkrans. Maropeng staff can provide information on a programme of walking tours at Swartkrans. Built in the form of a tumulus, Maropeng is reminiscent of a burial mound and all that waits to be discovered beneath it. It holds a popular high-tech exhibition, which begins with an underground boat ride back through time, tracing stages in the earth’s creation. This includes displays on the ‘Big Bang’ and the formation of the

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recommend the destination for a short stay, as the area contains multiple family-orientated attractions such as the Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve with its fascinating Wonder Cave, art galleries and craft workshops. Activities such as hot-air ballooning, fly fishing, cycling and micro-lighting can be done here. Some fine dining is also on offer – the Roots restaurant at Forum Homini, a boutique hotel that takes its theme from its location in the birthplace of man, claims a top spot when it comes to country eating experiences. In 2006 the area of the designated World Heritage Site was extended to include Taung in the North West province, some 350km west of Sterkfontein. It was here that yet another renowned South African fossil, the Taung Child, was uncovered in 1924 at a limestone quarry. The fossil consisting

of the skull of an infant, is not kept at Taung, but is held by Wits University. To commemorate the find, however, a plinth was erected at the Taung Heritage Site overlooking the old village that served the quarry. There are plans to construct a small exhibition here. The site is scenic, with streams of water falling from the limestone cliffs into some spectacularly blue pools, simply named Blue Pools, and is a popular spot for picnics.

ORIGINS CENTRE One of a new generation of South African museums, the Origins Centre is located on the premises of the University of Witwatersrand. It too contains a section on human evolution with casts of significant fossil finds, found both in South Africa and the continent at large. The museum sets out to show how all that makes man modern – art, symbolism and technology – originated in Africa.

PHOTOGRAPHS: RYAN JAMES/DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/MAROPENG VISITOR’S CENTRE

continents; our path to humanity and what makes us human, and the earth’s sustainability. It looks at a multitude of subjects in easily digestible forms – evolution, DNA, diversity and extinction, the human brain, bipedalism, tool making, communication, alternative energy and the ecological footprint. Much emphasis is placed on education, and it is a popular venue for school groups. Those spending a day in the Cradle can buy a joint ticket for both the Maropeng exhibition and Sterkfontein. There are restaurants at both facilities, as well as the four-star, boutique-style Maropeng Hotel for those who’d like to spend more time imbibing the peaceful atmosphere of the location. The impressive scenery, set by a backdrop of the Magaliesburg and Witwaterberg ranges, matches the import of the Cradle itself. Call +27 (0)14 577 9000 or visit www. maropeng.co.za. In fact, there’s much to

On the subject of art, the Origins Centre journey follows one of the world’s oldest continuous art forms, the tradition of rock painting and engraving. It delves into the history, culture and demise of the people who created it, in the main the ancient San. It takes roughly 90 minutes to go through the museum in full, best done with the aid of an audio tour with entertaining and informative commentary. There’s a book and gift shop on site, and a restaurant serving coffees and light meals. Call +27(0)11 717 4700 or visit www. origins.org.za. by Michelle Colman

OTHER PLACES IN AFRICA TO SEE FOSSILS Mrs Ples on display at the Maropeng Visitor’s Centre

Other important palaeontological sites in Africa that hold UNESCO World Heritage status are found along the continent’s Great Rift Valley. Two of these are located in remote parts of Ethiopia, namely the Lower Valley of the Awash and the Lower Valley of the Omo. These are not yet developed to the point where visitors can travel with ease. Further south in northern Tanzania is Olduvai Gorge in the Ngorogoro Conservation Area, known for the discoveries of Louis and Mary Leakey. In its layers of volcanic ash the ‘Laetoli footprints’ are evidence of our early ancestors walking upright. There is a small interpretation centre at the gorge explaining the process of evolution to visitors. The National Museums of Kenya holds a vast collection of fossil specimens ranging in age from 28 million years to several thousand. Its flagship, the Nairobi National Museum, displays a good selection of fossils. Rock art at Maropeng

ON AND OFF First-time visitors to Africa are often astounded by the scale of its majesty. One of the best ways to appreciate its size and diversity is to take the Garden Route but, suggests writer-photographer JIM FREEMAN, don’t forget to pack the music. A view of the Knysna Lagoon

VW Amarok

PHOTOGRAPHS: JIM FREEMAN/DEPOSITPHOTOS

Wild Oats Famers’ Market

A view of the Knysna Heads – opening the lagoon to the Indian Ocean

PHOTOGRAPHS: JIM FREEMAN/DEPOSITPHOTOS

Wilderness beach

f every picture tells a story, then every story needs a soundtrack. The joy of a roadtrip moment is exponentially enhanced by having the right piece of music playing at the right time. It’s as if you’re featuring in your very own movie. I don’t know about you, but I feel it’s cheating to plug in an iPod with a lifetime of downloaded albums to your vehicle’s sound system. I like to take along a maximum of three CDs per day of travelling – mainly because I do my road trips solo and enjoy long stretches of silence – so I derive enormous pleasure researching my route and choosing music accordingly. Taking one look at a very large and ominously black Volkswagen Amarok* utility truck with tinted windows recently, I knew there was only one song that could play on the CD player when I left my Cape Town home on a six-day, 2 200-km South African odyssey: Talking Heads’ Psycho Killer. Not that I planned on wreaking havoc on the populace of the tranquil Garden Route or big-sky Klein Karoo, but it is what it is (qu'est que c'est?) when you’re behind the wheel of an eight-speed autotransmission behemoth that, though it’s diesel-powered, is quiet and quick as a Stealth bomber. Talking Heads is one of my favourite groups with which to start any daytime adventure because it’s an edgy sound that twists the gut just sufficiently to instil the requisite outlaw spirit for tackling the long road. Once played, however, it gets replaced not to be played again till the next trip. Something more melodic but appropriate for getting into the rhythm of the road. Mark Knopfler’s Get Lucky would do fine, African Travel Market | 117

Wilderness – breathtaking forestry

but this time I’ve picked Sailing to Philadelphia and guitar-based bluesrock thrums as the broken white lines of the N2 arterial zap towards me like tracer bullets. The two-litre Amarok is making mincemeat of the speed limit. It’s so silent and smooth that I have to keep checking the speedometer. I could engage speed-control but it’s way too early in the day for that. Two hours later and I’ve gone through Wilderness – one of the world’s natural repositories of good karma and fairies – and pulled into its equally delightful coastal neighbour Sedgefield (www.visitsedgefield.co.za). Both are blue-flag beach towns but, if you want to distinguish between the two cultures, Wilderness is hippy while Sedgefield is surfer/adventure-sport; think Red Hot Chilli Peppers rather than Beach Boys.

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I’ve covered about 450km and the Amarok’s 80-litre tank is only nudging half. Sedgefield cannot be faulted for beauty, friendliness or value for money. While there are no hotels in the town, there are numerous top-quality bed and breakfast establishments or selfcatering facilities. There’s a plethora of good restaurants in Sedgefield, so for two nights I’ve checked into the self-catering Sedgies on the Water (www.sedgies.co.za) which overlooks the entire Sedgefield Lagoon. Sedgies comprises the entire downstairs floor of Gail and Dudley Powers’ home; four en-suite double bedrooms, well-equipped kitchen and plush lounge with hi-fi and satellite television. The glory of the place – apart from the unbelievable view – is that you get exclusive use at the same price whether you are

eight people or just one. Sedgefield is perfect for exploring the central Garden Route from George through to Plettenberg Bay, though these two outer limits can be avoided (with the exception of La Locanda restaurant in George), and inland towards Karatara and the socalled Seven Passes road. If you’re conventional, you’d be playing Loggins and Messina’s Best of Friends, but I’m enjoying the slightly menacing air the Amarok projects, so I’ve got the windows down and am playing Kings of Leon’s Only by the Night. It’s loud but I want to be somebody and have a little revelry. If you’re into good, wholesome stuff, the produce sold at the Wild Oats Farmers’ Market on Saturday mornings in Sedgefield is as good, if not better, than just about anything you’ll find anywhere in South Africa.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JIM FREEMAN

Ben Dekker

It ranges from chutneys and relishes, homemade muesli, craft cheeses, handmade German sausage, cakes and breads, to flowers and health products. You can also go for a walk along Sedgefield’s beach and, on your return, stop in at Pili-Pili Beach Bar for a toasted bacon and chillicheese sandwich along with Black Label draught beer. La Piazza in the town is a great family restaurant with an adjacent sports bar that rocks. Day three and, after a late breakfast at the Steam Whistle Stop on the disused Sedgefield station (buy one of their pies to eat on the road), Bruce Springsteen’s The Seeger Sessions gets loaded. There’s a serious day’s driving ahead. Prince Alfred’s Pass between Knysna and Avontuur is one of the most beautiful roads in South Africa. Eighty kilometres long, it is the country’s longest mountain pass road and one of the most challenging to drive. I’d previously only traversed it on a BMW F650GS motorcycle and though the Amarok’s all-terrain capability wasn’t strictly necessary, it made for a much less nervy ride. The gravelled road is narrow and cuts back on itself countless times. The surface is alternately corrugated, rippled, slippery with clay mud or slithery with shale. You switch from bright sunlight to the deep gloom of forest glade a dozen times in the space of two minutes, leaving yourself effectively blind. It’s steep up and steeper down, with precipitous drops just a few metres away. Time to change the CD and step up the intensity: Pink’s Funhouse. This being Africa, the other hazard is fellow road-users. I brake hard as I suddenly come upon an articulated truck parked on a blind corner while its driver takes a pee-break. “Please don’t leave me,” I pray as the tail

drifts momentarily. In somber mood, I turn into De Vlugt about 20km from the pass’ end where a sign advertises hot beer, lousy food, bad service and worse accommodation. The only truth in the statement pertains to the accommodation but, since the fabled Angie’s G-Spot is a biker oasis, who cares? (www.angiesgspot.co.za) Owner Angie Beaumont used to be a glamorous private detective. The name refers neither to her parts nor proclivities, but because, when she and husband Harold first stopped there years ago, she lay in the stream that runs through De Vlugt and called it a “great” spot. Later, after a fantastic burger and several cold pints, the talk turns to music. Harold and Angie want to hold a festival and are bandying names of possible performers. I suggest Brian Finch who lives less than 150km away in Prince Albert. At 66, Brian is continuously on the road peddling his brand of acoustic folkrock. Angie and Harold have heard his earlier work but have lost touch with his offerings of the past decade. We go out to the Amarok, gleaming darkly in the dimming light, and turn his latest, In Another World, up high so it echoes through the valley. As we listen, we’re joined by a tall and sinewy man whose twinkling eyes and fit demeanour belie the fact he’s over 70 years old. Ben Dekker is a legendary South African rambler, naturalist and author partial to drinking red wine out of the hollowed kudu horn that never leaves his side. He’s walked the entire pass because he has to attend a court case in Uniondale the next morning. Three days just about gone and not even half way into the trip. I’ve yet to refuel the truck and all is good in my world. Already there are a lifetime of pictures and stories to tell. *

Vehicle supplied by Volkswagen South Africa

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IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF

NELSON

MANDELA

Photograph: SA Tourism

South African Tourism recently launched the ‘Madiba’s Journey’ travel map consisting of tourist attractions inspired by the international icon.

The Nelson Mandela capture site in KwaZulu-Natal

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NELSON MANDELA IN THE EASTERN CAPE Bhunga Building, Mthatha The Bhunga Building in Mthatha pays tribute to Nelson Mandela through self-guided activities that will give insight into his birth and his life in the Eastern Cape and South Africa. The Bhunga Building Museum site is currently undergoing major renovations and will open later in 2014. Nelson Mandela Youth and Heritage Centre, Qunu Qunu is where Nelson Mandela spent many happy days as a child. The Nelson Mandela Youth and Heritage Centre is located a few hundred metres from Nelson Mandela’s home. The Mandela burial site is about five kilometres from the Nelson Mandela Museum, and can be seen

from the viewing deck at the museum. Tours to the open-air museum at Mvezo are also an option, but permission must be requested from the chief. It is advisable to contact the Nelson Mandela Museum to request a date to visit Mvezo. Nelson Mandela Voting Line Sculpture, Port Elizabeth The Voting Line sculpture at the Donkin Reserve in Port Elizabeth consists of metal figures representing all the communities who share the land – and who voted peacefully on April 27th, 1994. It’s a 38m-long metal sculpture of South Africans – of all shapes and sizes – connecting together to make what is simply entitled ‘Voting Line’. At the end of the queue is a metal cut-out of Nelson Mandela standing tall and victorious, his fist in the air.

PHOTOGRAPHS: RYAN JONES/DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS/SA TOURISM

outh African Tourism (SAT) has made it easy to follow in the footsteps of Nelson Mandela with its Madiba’s Journey map, which highlights all major tourist attractions and places of interest in relation to his life. South African Tourism Minister, Marthinus van Schalkwyk, launched the map at the Drakenstein Correctional Centre (formerly Victor Verster Prison) in Cape Town at the end of March 2014. He said: “To make it as easy as possible for people to personally experience Mandela’s story, we have developed the Madiba-inspired tourist attractions map, which encapsulates the key points on his life’s journey.” He added that Mandela’s passing in December 2013 had sparked a global outpouring of grief, with most places associated with his life’s journey teeming with visitors who dedicated private notes and flowers as tokens of respect and remembrance. “Mandela’s integrity and spirit of hope, reconciliation and love have touched the lives of millions of people. This year, we celebrate 20 years of democracy and freedom, and we look forward to welcoming many tourists from around the world to share the South African story and Mandela’s legacy with us. Since 1994, visitors from all corners of the globe have come to South Africa to seek out the places that shaped his remarkable life,” he said. Mandela’s death on December 5th, 2013 provoked an outpouring of grief around the world and renewed interest in following in his footsteps from travellers near and far. Some of the major tourist attractions that will be found on the map include:

Madibaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sJourney Travellers Map was launched in March 2014 at the Drakenstein Correctional Centre.

The vibrant Vilakazi Street

NELSON MANDELA IN GAUTENG Mandela House Museum Visit the house where Mandela lived with his family in Soweto. Situated in Vilakazi Street, it has been carefully restored and gives visitors great insight into the Mandela family. The house is filled with memorabilia about the family, complete with photographs and moving visuals. The museum is a moving tribute to the incredible struggle for freedom. There is a museum shop with branded commemorative items for sale. Vilakazi Street, Soweto Vilakazi Street is the most famous street in Soweto, and for good reason. It is the only street in the world to have had two Nobel Peace Prize winners as residents. Both Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Emeritus Desmond

Tutu lived here, and today you can visit Mandela House, which is where Mrs Mandela and the children lived until she was banished to Brandfort in 1977. It remained a family house until it became a museum. Vilakazi Street is within walking distance of the famous Hector Pieterson Museum. Liliesleaf, Rivonia It was at Liliesleaf Farm that some prominent leaders of South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s struggle against apartheid sought shelter and attended meetings. Some of these individuals were arrested in a police raid on Liliesleaf Farm on July 11th, 1963. Nelson Mandela, who was already serving a five-year prison sentence, joined 10 others on trial for sabotage in what became known as the Rivonia Trial. Mandela and seven others were sentenced to life imprisonment on June 12th, 1964.

Kliptown Open-Air Museum In 1955, a banned Nelson Mandela secretly witnessed the adoption of the Freedom Charter at the Congress of the People in Kliptown. The Freedom Charter outlined the wishes for a new South Africa as collected from people throughout South Africa. Today, Kliptown has a monument in honour of the adoption of the charter.

Apartheid Museum The Apartheid Museum opened in 2001 and is acknowledged accros the globe as the pre-eminent museum in the world dealing with 20th-Century South Africa. The museum illustrates the rise and fall of the system of apartheid and houses a permanent exhibition titled ‘Mandela: Leader, Comrade, Negotiator, Prisoner, Statesman’. The Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory The Nelson Mandela Foundation’s Centre of Memory houses permanent and temporary exhibitions of Madiba, including a walk-in experience of his post-presidential office.

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The Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg

NELSON MANDELA IN KWAZULU-NATAL Nelson Mandela Capture Site This site has enormous significance in the history of the freedom struggle because it is where Nelson Mandela began his 27-year incarceration. On August 5th, 1962, armed police flagged down a car driven by Nelson Mandela in a chauffeur’s uniform on the R103 near Howick in KwaZulu-Natal. He had been on the run for 17 months and was returning from a secret meeting with African National Congress (ANC) president Chief Albert Luthuli. To mark the spot is a sculpture comprising 50 steel rods that make up Mandela’s face, designed by artist Marco Cianfanelli.

Nelson Mandela in the Western Cape, Robben Island Robben Island, which is now a World Heritage Site and museum, is where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years in jail. From the 17th to the 20th centuries, the island was a place of imprisonment – today it is a beacon of hope and a place where visitors can gain some real insight into the life and times of Nelson Mandela and fellow struggle heroes, such as Ahmed Kathrada, Robert Sobukwe, Clarence Makwethu, Govan Mbeki and Walter Sisulu. Nobel Peace Laureate Sculptures, V&A Waterfront No walk around the V&A Waterfront is complete without a visit to Nobel

PHOTOGRAPHS: SA TOURISM

Constitution Hill, Braamfontein Constitution Hill Precinct in Braamfontein, Johannesburg, has a complex history going back to 1892, when the Old Fort was built. Through the years, it functioned mainly as a prison, and in the dark days of apartheid it was here that many passive resisters and freedom fighters, including Mahatma Gandhi in 1913 and later Nelson Mandela, were held. Many of those involved in the Defiance Campaign of 1952 and The Treason Trial of 1956 were also kept here. It has two permanent exhibitions that focus on the lives of Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi.

The Parliament Buildings in Cape Town

Parliament Nelson Mandela routinely appeared in Parliament as the South African president from 1994 to 1999. The President’s office, Tuynhuys, in the Parliamentary precinct, is where prisoner Mandela was taken to meet President PW Botha on July 5th, 1989 and President FW de Klerk on December 13th, 1989 and February 10th, 1990. Today, the public is welcome in the National Assembly to see where President Mandela made historic speeches, such as his first and last State-of-the-Nation addresses. Pollsmoor Prison Pollsmoor Maximum Security Prison in Tokai is about 25 minutes from Cape Town. It is one of South Africa’s most notorious prisons. It was also the place where Nelson Mandela was transferred on March 31st, 1982. by Denise Slabbert

ESSENTIAL MANDELA READING Robben Island off the Cape Coast of South Africa

Square to see the sculptures of the four South African Nobel Peace Prize laureates standing in a row: Nelson Mandela, FW de Klerk, Desmond Tutu and Albert Luthuli. These four great men all played their part in helping South Africa to democracy. Drakenstein Correctional Centre Drakenstein Correctional Centre was formerly known as Victor Verster Prison and is an unofficial attraction linked to the life and times of Nelson Mandela. Situated between Paarl and Franschhoek in the Cape winelands, it was here, in a house on the property, that Nelson Mandela spent the last 14 months of the 27 years he spent in prison. There is a bronze statue by sculptor Jean Doyle of

Mandela just outside the prison gates depicting him on the day of his release on February 11th, 1990. City Hall and Grand Parade Built in 1905, Cape Town’s City Hall is one of the last Victorian-style sandstone structures in the city. It is built in the Italian Renaissance style and is a major attraction. Cape Town’s Grand Parade is directly in front of City Hall. On February 11th, 1990, it was from the balcony of City Hall that Nelson Mandela addressed a crowd of 250 000 people, who came to hear him speak after his release from prison. There are regular tours of City Hall available through various operators.

8115 A Prisoner’s Home by Alf Kumalo and Zukiswa Wanner (Penguin) Long Walk to Freedom by Nelson Mandela (Abacus Publishers) Nelson Mandela By Himself: The Authorised Book of Quotations (MacMillan) Nelson Mandela, Conversations with Myself (MacMillan) Nelson Mandela: The Authorised Portrait (Wild Dog) Prisoner in a Garden (Penguin) Robben Island: A Place of Inspiration: Mandela’s Prison Island by Charlene Smith (Struik Travel & Heritage) Note: The Madiba’s Journey map was developed by South African Tourism (SAT) in partnership with the Nelson Mandela Foundation. Visit www.southafrica.net/mandela.

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Photograph: Kilimanjaro Golf Course & Estate

AFRICAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TOP GOLF RESORTS From the north to the southernmost tip of Africa, there is an amazing choice of golf courses available â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not only to play, but to experience as well. Some skirt cliffs and offer inspirational ocean views, while others are set in the African bush with wildlife all around. Here are 10 top golf resorts to consider when next planning a visit to Africa.

Kilimanjaro Golf & Wildlife Estate

KILIMANJARO GOLF & WILDLIFE ESTATE – TANZANIA This estate is an exotic 18-hole championship golf course and real estate development set within an area of outstanding natural beauty – Tanzania’s northern highlands. Consisting of 400 hectares of African bush, it is about 25km from the town of Arusha (a convenient tourism hub to travel to/from) and lies equidistant from Kilimanjaro International Airport. The estate offers a spectacular golf course, amazing views, African wildlife and easy access to worldfamous safari destinations. For all its remoteness, this golf course allows travellers the chance to experience the best of Africa in comfort and indulge in a favourite pastime.

Fancourt is an elegant property in George in the Western Cape, with three top-rated golf courses – Montagu, Outeniqua and The Links – all designed by legendary golfer, Gary Player. It has a pro shop that stocks all a golfer may need or desire and boasts a hi-tech golf academy for instruction with PGA-accredited pros. Montagu and Outeniqua are beautifully developed parkland-style courses that take the coastal winds into account, while the Links takes its inspiration from a traditional Scottish course. Accommodation is available onsite in stylish five-star lodges, built along the Montagu fairways in the colonial style with soothing white and green exteriors. The nearby coastal town of George caters for travellers’ needs with an airport, car hire, shops and restaurants.

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Kilimanjaro Golf & Wildlife Estate

Fancourt Hotel & Country Club Estate

PHOTOGRAPHS: KILIMANHARO GOLF & WILDLIFE ESTATE/FANCOURT HOTEL & COUNTRY CLUB ESTATE/ARABELLA HOTEL & SPA/FAIRMONT ZIMBALI LODGE

FANCOURT HOTEL & COUNTRY CLUB ESTATE – SOUTH AFRICA

PHOTOGRAPHS: KILIMANHARO GOLF & WILDLIFE ESTATE/FANCOURT HOTEL & COUNTRY CLUB ESTATE/ARABELLA HOTEL & SPA/FAIRMONT ZIMBALI LODGE

ARABELLA HOTEL & SPA – SOUTH AFRICA

Arabella Hotel & Spa

Arabella, an Italian word loosely translated to ‘beautiful land’, is a worldclass estate situated in the majestic Overberg in Hermanus, Western Cape, surrounded by magnificent mountains, the Bot River Lagoon and with protected fynbos flora all around. Arabella Golf Club was awarded the Compleat Golfer Five Star award in 2003, and is the preferred playground of celebrities like Samuel L. Jackson and Jack Nicklaus. It borders the largest natural lagoon in southern Africa and the 9th, 17th and 18th run parallel to it. A choice of five-star quality accommodation is available. Just an hour’s drive from Cape Town, Arabella is located near the whale-watching town of Hermanus on the border of the Bot River and Kogelberg nature reserves. Wine estates and farmers’ markets are plentiful, and nearby Gansbaai is shark-cage-diving central.

FAIRMONT ZIMBALI LODGE – SOUTH AFRICA

Fairmont Zimbali Lodge

Exotic and upmarket, Zimbali Lodge looks like something out of a Tarzan movie thanks to its subtropical setting in a lush dune forest right beside the ocean. It is home to 85 species of birds, hosts of butterflies and a wide variety of indigenous plant life, plus the lodge overlooks the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. Situated along the KwaZulu-Natal north coast, The Zimbali Country Club golf course was designed by former British and South African Open golf champion Tom Weiskopf and includes constant changes in elevation and beautiful streams and ponds. The dining facilities and wine cellar at Zimbali are pure enjoyment, if not indulgence. At dusk, standing on a balcony and listening to the ocean with a drink in hand is everyone’s favourite moment. African Travel Market | 129

PALMERAIE GOLF PALACE – MOROCCO

Palmeraie Golf Palace

TABA HEIGHTS GOLF RESORT – EGYPT Situated on the Sinai Peninsula, this spectacular, sprawling resort is home to a choice of four- and five-star hotels, plus a unique golf course with views of the Arabian, Jordanian and Israeli coastlines. Located between the Red Sea on one side and desert mountains on the other, the course also features lakes, flood canals and sparkling green fairways. With sunshine a given during all seasons, the Taba Heights Golf Resort is open every day of the calendar year, allowing serious golfers the opportunity to enjoy this (green) desert golf course at any time. Magnificent five-star properties with European and Middle Eastern themes offer numerous restaurants, and shopping options to explore.

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Taba Heights Golf Resort

PHOTOGRAPHS: PALMERAIE GOLF PALACE/TABA HEIGHTS GOLF RESORT/WINDSOR GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB/PEZULA RESORT HOTEL & SPA

The setting lives up to its name and is regal and imposing in its grandeur. Set against a backdrop of the snow-capped crests of the Atlas Mountains, the Palmeraie golf course is one of extreme contrasts, with desert on one side and seven lakes and thousands of palm trees on the other. The recently built Le Pavillon du Golf Hotel in Marrakech provides exceptional views of the course and surrounding landscape. The hotel is equally breathtaking and offers exceptional dining. Apart from an international conference centre, it boasts a magnificent swimming pool, tennis court, fitness centre, spa, horse-riding facilities and massage options. Golf is right next door, bikes can be rented, there’s a playground for the kids and even a traditional hammam.

PHOTOGRAPHS: PALMERAIE GOLF PALACE/TABA HEIGHTS GOLF RESORT/WINDSOR GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB/PEZULA RESORT HOTEL & SPA

WINDSOR GOLF HOTEL & COUNTRY CLUB – KENYA

Windsor Golf Hotel & Country Club

The visual impact of the Windsor Golf Hotel & Country Club in Nairobi is just stunning. This five-star hotel features a cluster of looming Victorian-style buildings with African accents and accommodation options that range from rooms and suites to cottages – all overlooking the spectacular 18-hole championship golf course that threads through coffee farms and indigenous forests. Hotel amenities include a business centre, free internet access in all rooms and public areas, a jogging track, tennis and squash courts, a heated pool, and venison choices on the menu. This is safari swank taken to another level. Every effort is made to ensure you leave feeling like a member of royalty who has found a haven in these expansive African surrounds. Excursion options include a tour of a coffee plantation to see how a cup of coffee is made, from the production process of the coffee berry to the grinding of the aromatic beans.

PEZULA RESORT HOTEL & SPA – SOUTH AFRICA

Pezula Resort Hotel & Spa

This resort in the Western Cape offers impressive ocean and lagoon views, gourmet dining and a magnificent 18-hole golf course. It is part of the Garden Route with its world-famous forests, lagoons, ocean views and mountain ranges. The resort offers an upmarket five-star environment that soothes the soul with unique spa treatments and boasts a 254-hectare golf course along the Knysna cliffs with impressive vistas and some wildlife (small forest dwellers and birds). The nearby town of Knysna is renowned for its oysters, artisanal breads and markets. Pezula has it all – location, amenities and options African Travel Market | 131

to explore, like the Knysna forest and the nearby holiday town of the wellheeled Plettenberg Bay with plenty of good restaurants and shops.

GARY PLAYER COUNTRY CLUB – SOUTH AFRICA South Africa’s most successful golfer, Gary Player, designed this course. Set in the African bush and part of the Sun City Resort, the course hosts the annual Nedbank Golf Challenge. It is suitable for serious golfers as water comes into play for five of the holes, while the resort itself claims to be ‘many holidays in one place’. Sun City offers diverse accommodation options (palatial to family-friendly), swimming in gigantic pools, cinemas, multiple restaurants, dancing, gambling, spa treatments and wildlife excursions to the nearby Pilanesberg National Park to observe Africa’s Big Five. It’s the ideal place for a family holiday – you park your car once and, for the rest, the resort takes care of you. Even Oprah Winfrey has visited!

Gary Player Country Club

Situated in Mokopane, Limpopo, the Legend Golf & Safari Resort is one of a kind with a setting that feeds the soul. The 18-hole Signature Course was designed by 18 of the world’s top golfers, including Jim Furyk, Sergio Garcia, Trevor Immelman and Retief Goosen. The resort lies within the Entabeni Safari Conservancy in the malaria-free Waterberg region of South Africa, where the Big Five roam. The most thrilling aspect of the course is the extreme 19th hole. Accessible by helicopter only, the tee is set 400m high on the majestic Hanglip Mountain and played to a green in the shape of Africa down below. The resort’s Tribute Course is a short 10-hole, based on famous holes around the world, including the legendary ‘Golden Bell’ at Augusta.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: GARY PLAYER COUNTRY CLUB/LEGEND GOLF & SAFARI RESORT

LEGEND GOLF & SAFARI RESORT – SOUTH AFRICA

Legend Golf Estate & Safari Resort

AFRICA

Crazy Legs Chair by Tekura (Tekura Design, Ghana)

IS NOW! This year’s Design Indaba Expo showcased African ingenuity in its many forms. The theme, Africa is Now, celebrated a continent bold enough to push boundaries and redefine creativity and… it’s just the beginning.

Fluoro Vases by Gone Rural (Series 2 by Philipa Thorne, Gone Rural, Swaziland)

PHOTOGRAPHS: DESIGN INDABA 2014

Painted children’s chairs by Piratas do Pau

esign Indaba takes place annually in February/March in Cape Town. It’s a mecca of sorts for designers and creatives on the continent – a platform where inspiration and brilliance are shared across multiple mediums at the Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) and where likeminded participants network and connect (that is, in between sipping lattes, trying out some of the latest Cape Town restaurants and bars, and generally having a good time). And what better backdrop than the gorgeous Mother City? This year is a busy year for Cape Town and its creative and design intelligentsia. And it was only fitting that the city known as the World Design Capital 2014, hosted the Design Indaba, celebrating the continent with the ‘Africa is Now’ theme. Kim Seeliger, Design Indaba Expo Manager, explains: “The Africa is Now exhibition was a creative

snapshot of the work being shown across the continent at the moment. It is an up-to-the-minute survey of established as well as emerging talent from across Africa.“ She explains that the centrepiece exhibition was made up of 66 designers from 25 African countries. “It was structured around five different themes, including Africa is Sharp, Africa is Urban, Africa is Tradition Reinvented, Africa is Resourceful and Africa is Transformed.“ The exhibition created much food for thought during and after the event, and allowed people to pause and consider creativity in Africa. For many of those attending Design Indaba it was also about Africa rejecting the clichéd and tired descriptions that have previously defined it, and instead enjoying the fact that the continent is becoming the new benchmark for innovation and inspiration. There was no typecasting at this exhibition, nor was there anything that lacked authenticity in terms of the African Travel Market | 133

AFRICA’S MOMENT The themes explored at the Africa is Now exhibition unpacked old stereotypical ways of looking at design and innovation on the continent. Here’s a brief description of the curation of this project and examples of the innovation on display. Africa is Sharp Africa is audacious. Africa is irreverent. Africa is sharp! Africa likes to show off with bright colours as bold as those found in the diverse natural landscape, rich patterns as intricate as its interwoven cultures, and shapes and silhouettes that cast a thoroughly modern vision of Africa. This exhibition included:  Sawa shoes for Shine Shine (Sawa shoes and Shine Shine, Ethiopia/ South Africa);  MO armchair (Cheick Diallo, Diallo Design, Mali);  The plywood chair (Issa Diabaté,

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Koffi Diabaté Architects, Ivory Coast);  Spaghetti bowls (Marjorie Wallace, Matupo Pottery, Zimbabwe);  Gone Rural’s Fluoro Vases (Series 2 by Philippa Thorne, Gone Rural, Swaziland);  Espresso Veloce (Arte Meccanica). Africa is Urban Shrugging off the perception that Africa is largely rural, the continent is home to seven rapidly growing megacities. These engines of growth and opportunity present an eclectic mix of contemporary urban challenges and possibilities. They are a source of vibrant design inspiration, from new architectural and urban typologies, to fashion with real street cred.  Makoko Floating School by Kunlé Adeyemi (NLÉ Design Architecture and Urbanism, Nigeria);  Mamelodi Pod (Architecture for a Change, South Africa);  Blue Worm Onesy (Anisa Mpungwe of Loin Cloth and Ashes, South Africa/Tanzania);  Pozzolana Cement (Constructs R+D, Ghana);  New Rugo Social Housing (George Periclès, Rwanda). Africa is Tradition African makers and creators have a singular, make-do approach to materiality, transforming what’s at hand into unexpected objects and designs that delight. Found objects are repurposed in ingenious ways, while mass-produced materials are reimagined in novel applications – always reflecting traces of a previous incarnation.  Textiles from Man vs Nature (2013) and Marvelous Realm (2014) collections (Zinzi de Brouwer, Mozambique);  Mwangabora, Sustainable

’Smock collar’ by Susan Didcott (Trip Handbags and Accessories, SA)

MFarm Agricultural App

The plywood chair (Issa Diabaté, Koffi Diabaté Architects, Ivory Coast)

PHOTOGRAPHS: DESIGN INDABA 2014

real, working, happening Africa that exists today. Ivorian architect Issa Diabate, who attended and showcased his work at the event, said: “African creativity can definitely change the way we see things and reinterpret our purpose as designers. What is most important for us is to show that we can do something that not only applies to Africa, but also to the rest of the world. To me, African creativity is the creativity of the next century.“ Oliver Brain, designer of the Street Sleeper, which uses innovation to tackle challenges facing homeless people by recycling advertising billboards into survival bags, pointed out why Africa and Africans are so inventive. He says, “Africans are problem solvers at heart. We look at a problem, see what is available and that is how we solve it.“

Makoko Floating School by KunlĂŠ Adeyemi (NLĂ&#x2030; Design Architecture and Urbanism, Nigeria)

Development For All-Kenya (Evans Wadongo, Kenya);  Umtwalo Wooden Backpack (Inga, Gubeka, Indalo Décor, South Africa);  Metal Chair (Hamed Quattara, Hamed Design Studio, Burkina Faso).

“To me, African creativity is the creativity of the next century.” – Issa Diabate (Ivorian architect)

Africa is Tradition Reinvented As the cradle of humankind, Africa has the oldest tradition of making and innovation. Today’s designers interpret ancient vocabularies of form, material and craft into a new visual language, creating African icons anew. It is about the juxtaposition of the age-old and the future-forward; about recontextualising the here and now.  Billie Top and Zama Skirt (Sindiso Khumalo, South Africa);  Disco Pipe for Airdiem (Hicham Lahlou, Morocco);  Crazy Legs Table (Tekura Design, Ghana);  African Zen serving table (Allan Schwarz, Mezimbite Forest Centre, Mozambique);  Smock collar (Susan Didcott, Trip Handbags and Accessories, South Africa);  Cone nesting stools (designed by Rentaro Nishimura and made by Mango Club for People of the Sun, Malawi);  Taboo Stool (Ayse Birsel and Bibi Seck, Taboo Furniture, Senegal).

 Madiba2Go Buggy (Shonaquip,

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South Africa);

 Opera Village (Francis Kéré of Kéré Architecture, Burkina Faso);

 Roadless Project (Ackeem Ngwenya, Roadless Ltd, Malawi/UK);

 Cardiopad (Arthur Zang, Cameroon);  Faso Soap (Moctar Dembele and Gérard Niyondiko, Burkina Faso). According to Seeliger, Africa is Now is just the beginning of new ways of celebrating the continent. She says: “The Africa is Now exhibit is more than a once-off focus; for this year’s expo, it’s part of a larger strategy that Design Indaba has to celebrate the creativity and innovation that is coming from across the continent.” For more information and the full list of exhibitors, visit www. designindaba.com.

Fluoro Vases by Gone Rural (Series 2 by Philipa Thorne, Gone Rural, Swaziland)

Sawa shoes for Shine Shine (Sawa shoes and Shine Shine, Ethiopia/South Africa)

PHOTOGRAPHS: DESIGN INDABA 2014

Africa is Resourceful Nowhere does the adage ‘necessity is the mother of invention’ ring truer than in Africa, where designers are coming up with ingenious contextual solutions drawn from the wisdom of local experience. Both hi-tech and lo-fi innovations and services are also finding application elsewhere in the world.  mPedigree Goldkeys app (mPedigree Network, Ghana);

South Africa);

 Moraba mobile game (Afroes,

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I The beckoning slopes of The Virungas, home to Ethiopiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wild mountain gorillas

Photograph: Darling Lama Productions

Into the CLOUDS It’s called “Africa’s little Switzerland“ for its lofty green peaks, but this high altitude slice of Africa is also home to rare endangered mountain gorillas.

t’s a perfect day for climbing. Cool, still and overcast, the brooding chain of volcanoes – The Virungas – beckons us to its powder-blue slopes. Their peaks piercing the clouds, the volcanoes tower heavenwards, and this is where the last remaining wild mountain gorillas live. Some days they are on the lower slopes chomping on celery sticks and require little physical effort to see; other times they may be at the misty tops of the volcanoes at over 3 600m high. So an intrepid, limb-wrenching hike is needed to get to them. Gorilla permits in hand and paperwork completed, we are ready to start climbing. Only eight people are permitted in a climbing group to each of the 10 habituated mountain gorilla groups that live on the volcano chain, which forms the political border between Uganda, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Rwanda. Of course gorillas don’t recognise borders, but when they reside on the Rwandan side they remain particularly well protected and monitored – less so in the neighbouring countries, where bush meat hunting is still a real problem. “Today we are heading for the Sabinyo group,” says seasoned guide Francois Biginmana to our small group of trekkers. “They live on Mount Sabinyo, about 3 643m high, but they are not always right at the top,” he smiles. “Trackers go ahead of us and relay messages back to us which direction to follow. So we don’t know exactly where they are yet. It will be a surprise.” Everyone in the group is handed a freshly cut long bamboo pole, which will become our best friend on the mountain. Whoever admits to being the slowest person in the group walks in front with Francois to set the pace. The rest of the group follows in

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single file, tailed by porters carrying cameras and water. Lean, fit and sinewy, the porters are used to scaling these sheer mountains daily. To them, it’s a gentle walk in the park. “Walk slowly,” advises Francois, “the mountain is steep, and there may be a long way to go.” We walk in silence, through fields of celery and other salad-looking plants favoured by gorillas, but today they are not there. Through stinging nettles, the gradient increases and the bamboo poles become essential tools to anchor and haul us up the mountain. The walk has become a climb, and soon it will transform into mountaineering and a staunch hike for the average Joe. With only about 750 mountain gorillas left on earth, this is a special journey too: one of acknowledgement and recognition for their importance on the planet, and one of quiet apology for what man’s brutality has done to bring them so dangerously close to extinction. Mountain gorillas share 97% of our DNA, which is very sobering considering they are still hunted by man for the pot in central Africa. Equally disturbing, adults are shot dead so that baby gorillas can be captured and sold as exotic pets to unscrupulous wildlife dealers. A quick buck is made and one of the rarest offspring on earth dies shortly after, because mountain gorillas do not survive in captivity. We have been climbing in relative silence for two hours, when Francois turns to us with a smile. “Is everyone ok?” he asks, hardly breathing heavily and still clad in a sweater and scarf. The rest of us are bedraggled in sweat-soaked T-shirts. Simultaneously, a tracker bobs back down the mountain and talks to Francois in the local language of Kinyarwandan. He points animatedly

and Francois changes direction slightly en route up the mountain. “The Sabinyo group is not too far away,” he says, as the tracker takes off again, back up the mountain to check on the gorillas’ movements. Another hour passes. Francois stops dead in his tracks and raises his hand for silence. “I hear them. They are very close by,” he says. Please, no eating or drinking or flashes on your cameras, and if the silverback charges don’t run, just cower down and show submission. He just needs to show you who’s the boss.” We have just an hour with the gorillas and must maintain at least a two-metre distance at all times – this to protect the great apes from human disease transmission, for which they have no immunity. On a verdant, sheer mountainside, under a forested canopy, the massive black hulks of gorilla are silently picking salad greens for lunch. The stoic and sturdy silverback watches over his charges, while a jet-black baby gorilla swings loosely from a tree by one arm. Then he drops off the branch and lands on the soft undergrowth, a perplexed look on his face. His mother continues snacking from the surrounding salad bar, and the rest of the gorilla group appears oblivious to our presence. For the full hour, we watch in awe as the mountain gorillas forage, play and nap. Even Francois and the trackers are still captivated by them every day, though they have all been tracking mountain gorillas most of their lives. “I often wonder who is watching whom,” says Francois in a whisper. “Because if you look into their eyes, you see yourself. I think the gorillas are just as amused at seeing us as we are at seeing them.” And then slowly and silently, our awestruck group falls back into single file to head down the mountain. There’s no need to ask for quiet, for everyone

PHOTOGRAPH: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

A young mountain gorilla chewing on plant stem. Gorillas eat forest vegetation such as leaves, fruit, seeds, tree bark, plant bulbs, tender plant shoots and flowers.

is lost in their own thoughts, of what it means to be great ape and human, and how very little difference there is between us. Getting down the mountain is much easier, though jelly knees take over once on level ground. It takes just an hour to descend from the clouds and cool mists of the mountain to the base below and the rambling village of Ruhengeri. So close, yet a world away from the mountain gorillas in their lofty home in the volcano tops. It is the mountain gorillas that are Rwanda’s unique attraction, along with the elegant, warm-hearted people who live in this ‘Land of a Thousand Hills’ that looks so much like Switzerland. by Keri Harvey

The ‘Land of a Thousand Hills’ that resembles Switzerland.

Best time: July to September is the dry season and best for gorilla tracking. Gorilla tracking: It can be strenuous and trekkers must be physically fit and older than 15 years. Anyone with any sign of illness is not permitted to trek. Currency: Rwandan Franc. Take cash in US Dollars. Health: Most of Rwanda is too high and cool for malaria, but precautions are still advised. Clothing for gorilla tracking: Lightweight rain poncho, longsleeved shirt, waterproof trousers, hiking boots, leather gloves, gators, sunscreen, and insect repellent. Language: Kinyarwandan, French and English. Communications: An excellent tarred road network; good telephone communication and cellphone reception. Travel arrangements: Gorilla permits cost $750 and only 80 permits per day are issued. For tailor-made trips, visit www.destinationsabuzz.co.za or call +27 (0)11 467 5713.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: DARLING LAMA PRODUCTIONS

TRAVEL TIPS

A local Rwandan woman

platform for the continent to be presented as an entity, as a unified force, and as the one travel and tourism destination that refuses to be ignored. I would like to personally invite you to take part in this publication. We aim to distribute African Travel Market throughout Africa and extensively across the world. I do hope that you’ll be willing to take this ongoing journey with me, so that the ‘great affair’ is an African one.

he writer, Robert Louis Stevenson, once wrote: ‘I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.’ I must say, after many years traversing the continent, that I know this to be true, but I know this to be especially true when I travel in Africa. There’s something about this continent that opens up the soul – making space for new experiences and a newfound aliveness that lingers – and that makes us better human beings. From Elmina Castle in Ghana to our very own Robben Island, from the plains of the Serengeti to the Kruger National Park after the rains; to the bustling cities of Lagos, Johannesburg and Dar es Salaam. There is so much to fall in love with and I for one know that my own ‘great affair’ with the continent has only just begun. I hope you have enjoyed taking this journey with me in showcasing all that is beautiful, spiritual, sensory and African in this magazine. I am, of course, being glib in assuming that we could ever package all that is Africa in one volume that you can hold in your hands – but I do promise that we have tried. From travel and leisure to business and pleasure, African Tourism Market (ATM) will provide a much-needed

144 | African Travel Market

My Highlights Of Travelling In Africa And The Islands… Putting the first issue of this magazine together has put me in a rather nostalgic mood, remembering all the amazing African adventures I’ve had, and knowing there are still more to come. Among these, I include:  Cruising down the Nile on one of my first ever trips ‘overseas’ and knowing that the travel bug had bitten BIG TIME!  Eating the freshest crab on the island of Wasini, off the coast of Kenya.  Living with the Hare Krishna community in a little village called Media, in Ghana, while making a film called My Hare Krishna Family.  Travelling through the Sahara making my way to Festival du Sahara, I finally understood what Paulo Coelho meant in the Alchemist when he said: “All you have to do is contemplate a simple grain of sand, and you will see in it all the marvels of creation”.  Flying over the Elephant Coast (KwaZulu-Natal) in a light aircraft and seeing a whale frolicking in the ocean below.  Meeting and spending time with Mama Grace Masuku in the North West Province of South Africa and learning about traditional African wisdom, and how nature plays a role in our existence as human beings.

“All you have to do is contemplate a simple grain of sand, and you will see in it all the marvels of creation”.

The International Festival of the Sahara, Tunisia

 Being taken around Robben Island with Ahmed Kathrada, fellow prisoner and great friend of Nelson Mandela as he shared many stories with me.  Having home-cooked lunch in Stone Town, Zanzibar with a local family – and not understanding a word that anyone said, but comprehending every smile.  Traversing the little Seychellois island of Alphonse on a yellow bike (and going to visit the giant turtles).  Walking hand in hand with baby chimpanzees at Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage in Zambia.  Flying over the Victoria Falls in a helicopter, and knowing that Africa is one of the most beautiful and evocative places on earth.

Denise Slabbert and the ATM Team Editor: African Travel Market

“Luxury Summed up in Three Words”

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