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Issue 1
PICTURING THE ROSES Ian Tilton’s new book ‘Set In Stone’ catalogues The Stone Roses rise
50 YEARS OF BEN SHERMAN
The mod shirt celebrates its 50th
A PINT WITH...
Atom Retro catches up with Baracuta maestro, Kevin Stone
THE PETE QUAIFE FOUNDATION
Release of new CD to raise funds in the name of the Kink’s bassist
BARACUTA The Original Harrington, back and better than ever!
THE MADCAP LAUGHS
What’s new from Madcap England
Sneak Peeks...
Collection previews of Realm & Empire, Who’s That Girl, Gloverall and Cavern Club Exclusives
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Issue 1 For nearly 10 years Atom Retro has been proud to serve a legion of loyal customers with their favourite threads. Whilst continuing to add great new brands to our portfolio and staying true to our Retro roots and love of music, we are constantly looking at new ways to improve our overall offering to you, our valued customers. As such we are introducing Up & Atom. A free publication that goes out with all our orders. It’s aim to feature cool articles and interviews we think will be of interest. It’s time unlock the Atom and let everyone into our world! Familiar faces, famous places and iconic brands are on hand to kick off Up & Atom, the inaugural issue of Atom Retro’s magazine. Sewn together with interviews, stories and pictures, Up & Atom serves up a volley of articles related to retro fashion, music and film as well as delving into the sub cultures and scenes that defined generations. In this issue we catch up with David Quaife and get the lowdown on the Pete Quaife Foundation. A charity concept that is close to David’s heart and named in memory of his brother, the legendary Kinks bassist. We also chat to excellent photographer, Ian Tilton, who’s name is ‘Set In Stone’ in the annals of rock and roll music history. He kindly talks to us about his iconic photo shoots, the motivation behind the imagery and also gives us the inside look at the new book, Set In Stone, Ian Tilton’s Stone Roses Photographs by Ian Tilton and Claire Caldwell. ‘A Pint With’ the Vast Agencies Kevin Stone. From Northern Soul to Ben Sherman and Baracuta, Kevin discusses his love of all things heritage. An intro to Up & Atom’s regular feature, ‘A Pint With’ which will see Kevin chat to a very special guest in each issue. All this, plus a showcase of current fashion trends including the stories behind the iconic brands available to buy at Atom Retro. We hope you enjoy issue 1 of Up & Atom!
In this issue... 50 years of Ben Sherman .........pg. 3 Picturing The Roses - Ian Tilton’s Stone Roses Photographs .......pg. 4 Baracuta ..................................pg. 6 A Pint With Kevin Stone ...........pg. 7 Realm & Empire Preview ..........pg. 8 Cavern Club Exclusives ............pg. 9 The Pete Quaife Foundation ....pg. 10 Who’s That Girl.........................pg. 12 Gloverall ..................................pg. 13 Madcap Laughs .......................pg. 14 ...And In The End .....................pg. 16
Up&Atom is edited by a team of dedicated Mod Kitties
Credits... Special thanks to... Kevin Stone, Ian Tilton & Claire Caldwell, David Quaife and all the brands who have contributed. Cover girl: Rachael Hall wearing Lucy In The Sky Dress by Madcap England. Written by Alister Poulton, Lindsey Hagston. Additional words by Kevin Stone. All images and text © Atom Retro, Indie Apparel Ltd, 2013 unless otherwise stated.
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50 Years of The Ben Sherman Shirt is 50 years old this year. Ben Sherman needs no introduction; the name has been synonymous with Mod style and classic looks since it’s launch in 1963 - but Ben Sherman wasn’t always Ben Sherman. The original Ben Sherman was born Arthur Benjamin Sugarman in Brighton, UK in 1925. After moving to the US in his twenties, Ben began a career in clothing manufacture, and changed his name to Ben Sherman. Moving back to the UK he opened his first factory in Brighton. Drawing on 50s American Ivy League style, the first Ben Sherman shirt arrived in 1963. Using high quality imported American fabrics for Oxford shirts in Yellow, Pale Pink and Blue, as well as candy stripes, the initial reception to all the colour was lukewarm in the conservative early 60s. However, the shirt was soon recognised by the Mods who adopted it as their shirt of choice.
To celebrate their anniversary Ben Sherman have reissued several ‘archive print’ shirt fabrics in paisleys, florals and more. Look out for them at Atom Retro soon. Also, a book has been published; Ben Sherman: 50 Years of British Style Culture by Josh Sims. Look out for a chance to win a copy at Atom Retro! If you only have one button down shirt in your wardrobe, make sure it’s a Ben Sherman Shirt. Here’s to the next 50 years! Check out the Archive Prints and new season Ben Sherman at www.atomretro.com/ben_sherman
The Ben Sherman House Check Shirt Search: MA00713
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Picturing the Roses - Ian Tilton’s Rock photographer, Ian Tilton has pictured some of the most iconic and famous bands of recent times. From Joy Division to Nirvana, his photographs have catalogued rock history. Some of Ian’s most famous photos were of The Stone Roses, who he pictured right from the early days all the way through to the legendary Spike Island. Ian has recently published a new book, written with co-author, Claire Caldwell, and comprising over 400 images, some of which have never been published before. We caught up with him to ask him about the book and his amazing pictures. Atom Retro - As well as The Stone Roses, you photographed many other icons from Nirvana, Joy Division and The Happy Mondays through to Guns N Roses, The Cure and The Manic Street Preachers. Who has been your favourite band or artist to photograph? Ian Tilton - The Roses were one of the best to photograph - we all came up with ideas for photos and worked on them together to come up with something great. The band were very patient and had to be on some shoots because some were technically difficult to do and we took time to get it right. Other times, like when I travelled around with them, the documentary shots were mostly fun and spontaneous. It was great just hanging out and documenting it all. Another band I enjoyed working with because of the laughs Pop Will Eat Itself. AR - Your book, Set In Stone catalogues The Stone Roses right from the start all the way through to the legendary Spike Island gig. Which period or photo session was your most memorable? IT - The Infra Red photos we did at Gareth Evans' "farm". The band and me - young, hopeful, happy and experimenting to get great photographs. Before the music biz people ripped them off. AR - One of the most interesting pages in your book is hidden right at the back - where you talk about the joys and perils of using 'real' film over digital technology. Do you still use real film now or have you moved over to digital cameras? IT - Glad you enjoyed that technical section! Everyone wants photos turning around so quickly so its always digital now. In low light (which is what I mostly do) digital is now miles better. AR - What first got you interested in Rock photography and what was your big break? IT - Well, I became deaf at age 14 and lost most of my hearing. My brother was in a great band called the Membranes and I went to their first gig (Kirkham
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Stone Retro Photographs 'Palms', near Blackpool) and I sat on the stage next to the drum kit when the first band Zyklon B came onstage. I was blown away by the massive sound of those drums through my whole body and got into live rock music there and then. I’ve continued going to gigs ever since. I saw and loved photos by Anton Corbijn in the NME and music papers and my friends bro was taking a few photos of bands. He did some of the Ramones at Lancaster Uni and I thought, "I can do that!" so I saved up for a camera and photographed local bands who liked what I did. The local paper (Blackpool Evening Gazette) ran 3 of my photos which was a memorable and really encouraging break for me. I signed up for a photography course and a few years later got commissioned on my first front cover of SOUNDS magazine - a band called 'Age Of Chance' from Leeds. Then soon after was my first commission in USA to photograph Aztec Camera in San Francisco. AR - Many of the Stone Roses most iconic pictures (The Jackson Pollock-esque style shoot, Ian Brown's 'monkey' face, etc) were taken by you. What inspires the ideas behind the photos? Do you plan in advance or is it more spontaneous? IT - I always planned something in advance and scribbled my ideas down on paper. I always had a starting point and then left myself open to spontaneity during every photo session. Spontaneous happenings were always my best shots I think. Humour has always been a big part of my work, so humour inspires me. Other artists inspire me, and other specific images have inspired me as starting points sometimes. I'll start there then change it naturally to make it my own. Pennie Smith's photos of The Clash; Kevin Cummins photos of Joy Division; lots of David Bailey's black & white studio portraits from the 60s AR - If you could photograph any person throughout history (alive or dead) who would you choose and why? Perhaps you've already achieved that ambition? IT - AC/DC with Bonn Scott, Queen - Sheer Heart Attack era, Elton John in flamboyant stage gear, on the open top tour bus with Paul McCartney & Linda going round Universities in the early 70s, Joni Mitchell, The Doors, Stranglers late 70s... These were the bands and the characters that I first really loved as a kid, even before I picked up a camera. AR - Do you have any tips to any budding photographers to get them started? IT - A lot of photos I see are too heavily digitised and rely on the post production software and effects to make them. They can be technically stunning yet they lack personal honesty and humanity because of this reliance. Set In Stone: Ian Tilton’s Stone Roses Photographs by Ian Tilton & Claire Caldwell is out now and can be purchased at www.iantilton.co.uk for just £25! Images used by permission © Ian Tilton.
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Baracuta You can't have failed to notice the new Baracuta G9 and G4! The original Harrington Jacket much copied, but never bettered, is now better than ever. Relaunched earlier this year, with improved fabrics, fits and styles, you've never owned a better Harrington Jacket. The new Baracuta G9 Original and G4 Original retain all the aspects that make it the authentic Baracuta Harrington - the ribbed, double button collar, the 2 button down pockets, the inside button pocket, raglan sleeves, elasticated waist and cus (on the G9, open waist on the G4 with buckle cinch), iconic 5-point 'Umbrella' vent to reverse and of course, the famous Fraser Tartan lining. But add to this an improved fit - the jacket is now slimmer and more fitted than the old styles, giving a much more flattering shape - and better fabrics - the G9 Original is a Poly-cotton shell with a 'Coolmax' lining. The unique 'Coolmax' lining keeps moisture away from the skin, keeping the wearer cool and comfortable. This is really the Mod connoisseur's Harrington Jacket. A really special Jacket for the discerning Mod, when only the best will do, buy the Baracuta. For Winter 2013, the G9 and G4 are in new colours Beech green and Oak brown, plus the range will feature highlights in the form of Baracuta G9 Winter Jackets - padded for warmth, Baracuta Parkas and a rather special leather G9 jacket. Time to get your wish list updated! More info about the new Baracuta can be found on our Baracuta Guide at www.atomretro.com/baracutaharrington, or dive right in to the current range at www.atomretro.com/baracuta
Baracuta Original G9 in Beech Search: BRCPS0001
A Pint With... Kevin Stone Kevin Stone, owner of The Stone Consultancy and brand director for The Vast Agency, knows all there is to know about Baracuta. Atom Retro caught up with him for a swift half. Atom Retro - Hello Kev, what you drinking? Kevin Stone - A pint of real ale please. AR - So Kev how long have you been kicking about the industry? KS - its a long time but in essence it feels like yesterday as it’s such an exciting industry and it’s even faster paced this days with on-line retailing, social media and buying seasons becoming shorter. AR - You are involved with Baracuta and have a love of all things heritage, tell us how this started. KS - It started in 1977 at the age of 16 at Bilton Youth Club (Harrogate, North Yorkshire). That’s when I discovered Northern Soul. Two years later I went to Wigan Casino and many years later I found myself working for the brands that we wore at the mecca of soul. AR - Which brands are we talking about? KS - Three in particular have had a large impact on my career; Fred Perry, Ben Sherman and Baracuta. I was European Sales & Marketing Director at Fred Perry. I joined in 1996 shortly after Oasis played at Maine Road; I mention this moment as it was a tipping point for the brand, as overnight it switched its focus away from tennis and into lifestyle, exciting times! I then took up the reigns at Ben Sherman. This was a pivotal time for the brand as it looked to change its position as a brand that sold tons of shirts to lots of retailers. Our brief was to change it into a British lifestyle brand that not only looked backwards but also forwards; a brand with a heritage of modernity. AR - And now you are working with Baracuta...
KS - I have been associated with the brand for 10 years. It’s a wonderful brand full of provenance. I’ve headed up design, ran the marketing, designed the first website, ran the PR before we took on Village Press, worked on all the collaboration projects it’s really is hard-coded into my DNA. AR - The Baracuta brand was recently sold. What can you tell us about that? KS - The brand has been bought by WP Lavori in Corso. They are a fantastic business dedicated to heritage brands. They have a real passion, something we both have in common. They are great fun to work with very knowledgeable, In my opinion, the brand couldn’t be in safer hands. AR - What’s next for Baracuta then? KS - The new direction is very much the old direction but with much more finesse. For now we are concentrating on outerwear, the brands heritage, making our iconic pieces here in the UK, but upgrading all the materials, hardware, improving the fit. AR - What pieces key pieces should we be looking out for? KS - I’m busy with the Spring 2014 collection. The new Made in England Trench is receiving a lot of attention; it’s going to be a must have item! AR - What else is going on then Kev, you’ve always got your fingers in lots of pies? KS - The creative agency that I am involved in is very busy and we are working on some great projects. We love British brands and we have some great lifestyle ones in the portfolio, including Tootal, Private White VC, Twisted UK, Johnny Tuxedo and Gibson London to name drop a few. AR - Thanks for your time, Kev!
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Realm & Empire - Collection Preview Continuous eort... is the key to unlocking our protential." - Winston Churchill Inspired by the Imperial War Museums, the Realm & Empire collection is truly unique. Enriched by British Heritage, authenticity and the credibility of the past, attention to detail, finest quality and good old fashioned British design goes into every piece of the Realm & Empire collection. The Realm & Empire Winter collection for 2013 arriving soon! - centers on two main themes this season; Naval style and endurance and the celebration of the 70th Anniversary of the 617 Dambusters Squadron. Here's a sneak peek of the winter styles - arriving soon at Atom Retro. For full details see our blog at http://blog.atomretro.com/2013/08/previewrealm-empires-photoshoot-on-hms.html or check out all of Realm & Empire at www.atomretro.com/ realm_and_empire.
Pictures used by permission Š Realm & Empire
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Cavern Club - Exclusive Bags The Most Famous Club in the World Ž - The Cavern Club. Any music fan will have heard of The Cavern Club in Liverpool. The spiritual home of The Beatles, the club has had pretty much every musical icon on its famous stages from The Kinks, The Hollies, The Rolling Stones, Queen and Bo Diddley, through to Oasis, Arctic Monkeys and Adele. New in - and exclusively available only from Atom Retro and The Cavern Club itself, are 2 fantastic new bags - a 60s style flight bag and a nod to the Northern Soul Mods in a bowling bag. Both bags are made in England and available in Black or Dark Green, featuring a vintage Cavern Club logo on a brick background - referring back to the famous Cavern arches and bricks. Bag yourself one of these as they won’t be around for long! View all of The Cavern Club range available at Atom Retro at www.atomretro.com/cavern_club
...Online! Up & Atom magazine - and more - can be read online at the Atom Retro Blog. Find it at: blog.atomretro.com!
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The Pete Quaife In a 1996 interview, John Entwistle of The Who was asked who his favourite bassist was. He replied, ‘I’d say one of my favourite bass players was Pete Quaife because he literally drove the Kinks along.’ Pete Quaife, one of the founding members of The Kinks and their bass player up until 1969, sadly passed away in 2010 after battling kidney failure and enduring kidney dialysis for more than ten years. Shortly after, his brother, Dave Quaife, decided to start The Pete Quaife Foundation in his memory. We asked Dave Quaife more about it. ‘We supply children on dialysis treatment the things they need and want to pass the time during treatments during their four hour, three times a week visit to the clinic. As everything must be sterile we give them iTablets, play stations, kindles, portable dvd players – anything they need that can be sterilized. We do not give money to the clinics – we give the children what they want – cuts out the administration costs. If all goes well with the foundation we would like to supply or lend home dialysis units – a great help for the children – holidays in sight.’ One of the first events organised by The Pete Quaife Foundation arranged for a blue plaque commemorating Pete’s life to be unveiled at Fortismere School (previously William Grimshaw Secondary Modern) - the school Pete attended and where The Kinks started life as The Ray Davies Quartet. The plaque was unveiled by Kinks members, Ray Davies and Mick Avory and a message from Dave Davies was read out by Dave Quaife. This September The Pete Quaife Foundation will release a new CD to raise money. This 30 track CD features ‘donated’ tracks from bands such as Heavy Mod and The Electric Stars. Dave told us, ‘We also support live music and the bands that play. We decided to start a record label, PQFMusic and produce a double CD where each band does a cover of a Kinks number Pete played on, and one of their own numbers. This CD will be sent ‘around the world’ and hopefully some of the bands playing will be ‘picked up’ giving them the break they deserve.’ As you might expect, music is at the heart of The Pete Quaife Foundation. Dave says, ‘We have done a few gigs and decided to do a launch of the CD as a fund raiser to do it. We like the idea of helping those who help us – and a good way to have people donate, and to get something in return – enjoyment, something to remember.’ Pass It On, the new CD is set to be launched on the 21st September with a party in London. ‘The launch party will be a lot different than others before,’ Dave told us. ‘Top class food served, the best vinyl DJ around, friends from the days when
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Foundation Pete was in the Kinks, dancing of course and a few surprises too! We chose the timing of 2.00pm to 6.00pm on purpose the 7 Dials is in the center of club land so the overseas visitors (and others!) can ‘do the town’ after – but as rumor has it their will probably be a jam following, just like it used to be!’ Tickets for the launch party are £26.00 and can be purchased from The Pete Quaife Foundation website - www.petequaifefoundation.com - where you can also pre-order the CD. Another exciting project the foundation is involved in is the publication of Pete’s book, Veritas, the fictional story of The Elmores, a 1960s band, based largely on Pete’s experiences with The Kinks. Dave told us, ‘Pete started writing Veritas when we both lived in Denmark in 1982. It is about a band that existed before the Kinks and follows the lives of the band. It is a sort of parallel story of the Kinks and their milieu - the Mod scene, their lives and surroundings. It is a ‘must’ read for those who want to know how it was then, and to be a Mod!’ Being a Mod is definitely something Pete was an authority on. As pictured on the cover of the Pass It On CD, Pete was a scooter fan and his famous scooter ‘Flo’ is almost as much an icon as he was. Dave remembers, ‘Flo was Pete’s scooter and they both became Mod icons. He was the only real Mod musician who turned up at big gigs on his scooter; the rest driving in a limousine. We met Stuart McNeill at the Brighton weekender and he approached us asking about Flo. It transpired he had spent a good 12 years rebuilding her, down to the tax disc and specially made exhaust pipe. We were completely amazed when we saw Flo later that year – it looked like a clone, and sounded just the same. Flo is definitely the star of the show!’ 2014 also has some big things in store for The Pete Quaife Foundation. Dave told us, ‘Master tapes have been found of music Pete co-wrote in Denmark – a few were chart hits. These are being re- recorded and will be released next March at a concert that will included three warm up bands, some ‘pop’ stars that knew and worked with Pete and a compare from those days too, a very 1960s affair!’ Look out for more information about that on The Pete Quaife Foundation’s website. You can also follow the foundation on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ ThePeteQuaifeFoundation. Images used by permission. © David Quaife.
Dave and Penny with Ray Davies
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Who’s That Girl & Wow To Go! Who’s That Girl? It’s not Jess, it’s you in your new Who’s That Girl wardrobe! Arriving this Autumn at Atom Retro is Retro Belgian brand, Who’s That Girl, and it’s sister brand, Wow To Go! WTG is all about feel good fashion with fabulous Retro 60s & 70s themes and all the while being easy and comfy to wear. (None of that ‘How on Earth am I meant to put this on?!’ here!) The designer, Catherine Talpe says, ‘If you want to look good, first of all you have to feel good. It’s simple really: we only design what we want to wear ourselves and don’t find anywhere else. If it’s not flattering and comfortable, then it’s just not going to be sold at WTG!’ The Autumn and Winter collection concentrates these principles in three main themes - Sunset Boulevard and Verona: Fabulous fashion meets a dash of old school kitsh, Americana and The Gold Rush: That all American western look in compliment worthy clothing and Duty and Lindy: A nod to some vintage dance floors and dance crazes - with flapper styles all the way through to Lindy Hop swing dresses! Look out for Who’s That Girl and Wow To Go arriving at Atom Retro now. www.atomretro.com/ whos_that_girl
Images used by permission © WTG
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Gloverall “In 1950 out of sheer necessity, my late husband Mr Harold Morris and myself went into business as Industrial Clothing Specialists...” And so began the Gloverall story. Originally making boiler suits, overalls and warehouse coats, Gloverall was approached by the Ministry of Defence at the end of the Korean war to dispose of some surplus duffle coats. When this supply ran out, it was clear the demand was still there - and the Gloverall Duffle coat was born! From a factory behind St Paul's Cathedral Harold and Freda Morris with the help of Harold's Father, a master tailor began to work their duffle coat-ey magic. Picked up quickly, the Gloverall Duffle coat became a symbol of ‘social renegades’ in the 50s and 60s. The coat was worn by film and TV icons from Bing Crosby and Perry Como through to John Wayne and Dudley Moore. Perhaps the most famous Duffle Coat of all is The Monty (Called ‘The Freda’ for women), named after one of the most iconic Duffle coat wearer, FieldMarshal Bernard L. Montgomery. For Winter 2013, the mens Mid Monty will be available in new colour way, burgundy (pictured below) and traditional beige. This made in England
duffle coat is a mid length version of the original wartime coat, featuring Varnished wood toggles & jute rope fastening, fixed shoulder ‘cape’ detail for extra strength and warmth and usually made in boiled wool mix, so perfect for winter. Also coming for the boys are a new short, waist length Gloverall Monty Duffle Coat in Navy, a new colour in the Gloverall Reefer coat, Khaki and a rather special Gloverall unlined Chesterfield three quarter length coat in grey herringbone - look out for that one! In the womens range, featured new styles include a Gloverall Shawl Collar Swing Coat (pictured above) in Navy/Burgundy and a Sherpa Monty Duffle Coat in boiled wool in Earth Brown. View the complete Gloverall range at Atom Retro here: Mens - www.atomretro.com/gloverall Womens - www.atomretro.com/ gloverall_womens Images © Gloverall
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Madcap Laughs 1.
A preview of Madcap England’s new styles for Winter 2013. All these style should be arriving in September and October.
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1. Velocita Cycling Top - New long sleeve cycling top with chest stripes. Available in Blue (pictured) or Teal. 2. Pinstripe Marriott - A new update for Marriott this season with a pinstripe front. Available in Maroon (pictured) or Navy. 3. Donovan - New style Donovan is based on the classic button through Marriott but with a open welt waist and striking stripe front. Available in Navy (pictured) or Maroon.
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5. O t i s - N e w s t y l e ‘ O t i s ’ i s a combination of the Marriott polo style and the Mavers zip cardigan from previous collections. Button through, long sleeve and with a funnel style collar, this is a winter wardrobe must-have! Available in Maroon. 6. Dollierocker Daisy Dress - Not forgetting the girls! Here’s Madcap’s best selling Dollierocker Dress in a new Retro 60s inspired Daisy pattern in a vintage effect print. Available in black or white.
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Buy Madcap England here: Mens - www.atomretro.com/madcap_england Womens - www.atomretro.com/madcap_england_womens
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