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Issue 5
THIS ART 2-TONE
Exclusive interview with 2-Tone graphic artist, John ‘Teflon’ Sims
JONNY OWEN
A chat with Svengali director and star, Jonny Owen
A VERY BRITISH PHENOMENON
Author, Terry Rawlings on books, Brian Jones and The Small Faces
A WELL DRESSED MAN ABOUT TOWN
Interview with tailor and designer, Mark Powell
PLUS...
BLACK NOIRE
Darron J Connett’s new experimental musical adventure
A PINT WITH...
Meet DJ Dan Nolan for a quick half
Vintage Star Wars Tees History of Peckham Rye Lyle & Scott Lee Jeans Sounds Of The Sixties and more!
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Issue 5 Since the last issue of Up&Atom we’ve been busy with our 10th Anniversary celebrations, two burglaries, a load of new stock and an injured cat! It’s like fashion CSI! ...Welcome to issue 5 of Up&Atom! In this edition we Paint It Black Noire and get the latest from our mate Darron J Connett's new band, new sound and new tracks. Author Terry Rawlings talks to Gibson London’s resident super mod, Simon Parr about books, music and his 20 years of research in to what really did happen to Rolling Stones legend, Brian Jones. We also get the gist from John Sims aka Teflon, the renowned 2-Tone artist on how he designed his iconic Nutty Dancer image and why. He truly is an expert on the Mod Revival era! In a tailor-made article for Up&Atom, Darron J Connett catches up with the legendary bespoke tailor, Mark Powell. He knows a thing or two about fashions and threads! Do up your top button, because we’re talking real style with Peckham Rye. Proprietor of the famed Peckham Rye, Martin Brighty chats to Up&Atom regular, author Mark Baxter. If you love the stylish and interesting wares on offer at Peckham Rye, you’ll love this too. An interview as intriguing as one of their wonderful Paisley scarves. The clash of the Svengalis : Actor, Director and writer, the multi talented Johnny Owen discusses his cult classic Svengali with Black Noire’s Darron J Connett. And it’s like music to our ears as we take time out to listen to The Revolvers and some ‘Sounds of the Sixties’. Four guys who are keeping the spirit of 1960s music well and truly alive! In our regular feature ‘A Pint With’, Baracuta’s Kevin Stone talks to DJ, Dan Nolan, and lastly in our brand features (because we do actually find time to flog some clobber in between all this!) we focus on Chunk’s Vintage Star Wars Collection, Lee Jeans, Lyle and Scott and much, much more! ....Thanks for reading Up&Atom!
In this issue...
The Force Awakens: Star Wars Tees
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This Art 2-Tone: John ‘Teflon’ Sims
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Svengali: Jonny Owen
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The History of Peckham Rye
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Lyle & Scott
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Atom was 10
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Terry Rawlings: British Phenomenon
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Lee Jeans
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Mark Powell: A Well Dressed Man
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A Seaside Riot
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Summer Essentials
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Sounds Of The Sixties
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A Pint With... Dan Nolan
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Black Noire
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...And In The End
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Up&Atom is still edited by a team of dedicated Mod Kitties
All Credit to... Special thanks to...
John ‘Teflon’ Sims, Terry Rawlings, Jonny Owen, Mark Powell, Martin & David at Peckham Rye, Dan Nolan, Kevin Stone, Lee Hambridge and SOTS, Darron J Connet & Black Noire, John-Paul Cassidy, Jack Smith and everyone who sent us ‘Atom is 10’ pics! Written by Alister Poulton & Lindsey Hagston. A Seaside Riot written by Kiri Braviner. Additional words by Simon Parr, Mark Baxter & Darron J Connett. Cover image ‘Rat Race’ © John ‘Teflon’ Sims, 2-Tone Posters. All rights reserved. Used by permission. All images and text © Atom Retro, Indie Apparel Ltd, 2015 unless otherwise stated. Prices given correct at time of publication. May be subject to change.
...Cos' fashion is my only culture
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The Force Awakens... Fantastic new limited edition Star Wars Vintage collection by Chunk - available now! Chunk have been making their quirky unique Star Wars T-shirts for years now, but this years collection must be one of the best. Designed to tie in with the up-coming new Star Wars movie, the Chunk Vintage Star Wars collection is an absolute must-have! The limited edition tees feature brilliant prints on 70s style ringer t-shirts and sweats. Highlights include a 1980s Star Wars comic cover (pictured left) available in retro red, white or on a soft grey sweat, hand drawn Japanese Boba Fett (pictured right) is the choice for those who want to stand out and the original Star Wars logo tee (pictured below left) features the very first Star Wars logo by Ralph McQuarrie, which first appeared during filming at Pinewood Studios in 1975. Lastly, the original Empire Strikes Back Tee (pictured bottom right) features the original Empire Strikes Back movie logo to the front and again on a large back print. Now the only problem is which one do you buy first?! (Make your mind up quick, they won’t be around for long! Find them here: www.AtomRetro.com/chunk
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This Art 2-Tone: John ‘Teflon’ Sims You might not recognise the name John ‘Teflon’ Sims, but you most certainly will recognise the iconic ‘Nutty Dancer’ Ska man. This, as well as most of 2-Tone’s most famous imagery was designed by artist, John Sims during an amazing career designing artwork for bands like The Specials, Madness, The Selecter and more. Up&Atom caught up with him recently to ask him about music, art and 2-Tone. Up&Atom: You’ve been a graphic designer and art director for many years. At 16 you won your first prize for illustration. In the early 80s you won the NME best British single sleeve design, plus two Design and Art Direction Awards and a co-director video award. Is there such a thing as being born gifted? John Sims: I am not sure if any of us are born with a gift, but we’re all influenced by what we see around us and guided by our parents, family, friends and experiences through our lives. We also learn and train from seeing others who are skilled professionals. I loved to draw and paint as a child from a very early age. My grandfather was an early influence. He was a shoe repairer by trade but was very creative and could turn his hand to carpentry, metalwork or even making concrete gnomes. He would make children’s doll houses, farms and castles from paper mache and wood to sell. We all have talents and art was and is mine... although strangely my best exam result at school was mathematics, which I loathed! U&A: You were a bit of a mod in your teenage years. Did this period influence you and your art? JS: Being a teenager in the 60s, the music scene was ever changing, but this was a very exciting time. I had little money to spend on clothes but bought what I could afford from Harry Fenton shops or those in and around Carnaby Street, London, where my career began. I can recall getting a mod shirt, StaPrest trousers and desert boots and thinking I
was pretty cool. A dogtooth jacket, elephant cord trousers and check pattern hipsters. I can remember seeing the front cover of Football Monthly with a team photo of Sunderland FC. Charlie Hurley was a local hero and captain of the side and stood proudly in the team picture. But then I noticed a young player seated at the front who stood out from all the others. Cannot remember his name but his haircut was similar to the young Pete Townshend’s. Amongst all the Brylcreem quiffs, this guy was cool. So out came the scissors and I cut my fringe short in a straight line. My father had a motorcycle outfit of latex shiny waterproof PVC jacket and elasticated trousers. I thought wow this jacket is £10 in Carnaby Street, so my father ‘lent’ me the jacket (ha). My Generation by The Who and Dead End Street by The Kinks really kick started the mod scene. I could not afford a Vespa or Lambretta but friends had them so I would hitch a lift on the back to our local youth club or weekend dance. Quadrophenia was a film to show it as it was. The fights or pushing and shoving, squaring up between mods and rockers sometimes happened and our youth club had a few minor silly moments where it all kicked off but in general everyone just had a good time with no trouble. U&A: The 1970s punk scene was followed by Ska and 2-Tone. How do you think the music affected the culture of the time? JS: The punk scene was anti-establishment, fast and furious music in the mid seventies with The Ramones in the USA and then The Sex Pistols and The Clash leading the way. At Chrysalis, who I was with at the time, we had
... It’s my birthday too, yeah!
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6 www.AtomRetro.com New pair of shoes are on my feet... Generation X with Billy Idol and the brilliant Stiff Little Fingers from Belfast with their hard hitting social and political songs. In the late seventies and early eighties Ska found its way in on the back of punk, especially around Birmingham and Coventry with the birth of 2Tone and bands like The Specials, The Selecter, The Beat, Madness, Bad Manners and reggae-Ska of UB40. I was very fortunate to have the opportunity to take the look and style of 2-Tone, created by Jerry Dammers of The Specials and create further black and white graphics. U&A: Your big affection of Ska already existed then. You were a freelance graphic designer in the 70s and then an art director at Chrysalis Records. How did the 2-Tone record label happen with Chrysalis? JS: Many record labels wanted to sign up The Specials who were suddenly hot on the gig circuit after supporting The Clash on tour, but many stalled at the idea of signing a band that wanted its own independent label and to release singles by any band it chose to. It was sheer delight to know then that Chrysalis were favorites to take this ‘deal’ on. I was able to see the band play at The Greyhound, Fulham, at what was classed as ‘the record company’s gig’. I stood next to Mick Jagger who was also keen to sign them. Next day, Doug Darcy, the Chrysalis MD, called me up to A&R to meet Jerry Dammers and Horace Panter of The Specials. They were responsible for the style and look of 2-Tone and I and others such as Chalkie Davis and Carol Starr developed it further. U&A: The dancing Ska-Man or ‘Nutty Dancer’ became an iconic part of the 2-Tone identity. How was this designed and how has it remained so popular? JS: I illustrated the dancing Ska-Man or Nutty Dancer for the Madness single, The Prince/ Madness double A side. I based it on the cool dude, Walt Jabsco from the 2-Tone label, but dancing or skanking, after seeing the energy of the audience skanking at the Hammersmith Palais in London. Then also an awesome gig at Electric Ballroom, Camden with Selecter, Madness and The Specials, which was part of the 2-Tone tour. There was this big shadow of Chas Smash doing the ‘Nutty Dance’ on the wall behind the stage and I thought, wow, I have to draw that! I am humbled, honoured and astonished that all these years later those simple black and white graphics have played their part as the identity of 2-Tone and Ska and
live on today. Even more so amazing when someone shows me one of the designs tattooed on their arm, leg or torso. In a time of race riots and with the National Front organisation being at it’s peak, the black and white icons and symbols in 2-Tone and Ska promoted racial unity and integration. As with Jamaican Ska, the mood of the times was reflected in the lyrics. The 2-Tone bands were pillars of support to the Rock Against Racism movement that was prevalent at the time, with their make up of both black and white musicians and artists showing that integration would and always did work. U&A: You won the Design & Art Direction award in 1981 with The Specials’ single cover for Rat Race. How did this idea develop? JS: Rat Race is as typical today as it was then and before. [It depicts] the daily drudge of a boring job and in this case, the retro typist in an office. The rat jumps out of the retro typewriter... ‘Working for the rat race, you’re no friend of mine.’ U&A: In 1983 you moved to Zomba & Jive Records. Had the 2-Tone era ended by then? JS: I passed the baton of 2-Tone on to my colleague, David Storey when I took up the post of creative director at Zomba and Jive Records. The Specials had split by then and my last projects had included the Fun Boy Three first album and some singles. Jerry reassembled as The Specials AKA and went into the recording studio for 2 years to record the album, In The Studio. I understand that all the profits of 2-Tone’s previous success were swallowed up in financing those 2 years of recording. The outcome though produced the famous Free Nelson Mandela single. By then I was working with bands such as Flock Of Seagulls, Roman Holiday, Billy Ocean and the successful Shape Up & Dance series. I did that for a year and a half and then started my own design and artwork studio in London, called Bouncing Ball Design, working with music, fashion and corporate clients. Bouncing Ball eventually became Picture This Design. U&A: You’re one of the founders of the Folkstone ‘Skabour’ Festival at Folkstone Harbour, which first took place in 2010. What can Ska and Reggae fans expect in 2015? JS: The ‘Skabour’ Festival has been an astonishing success and I think it lit the blue touch paper for other festivals and big Ska events. After becoming Ska Splash and The
...Cos' fashion is my only culture Ska Fest, it’s returned to it’s roots and the name ‘Skabour’. 2015 will be another outstanding event for Ska and Reggae followers. Many top bands such as The S e l e c t e r, B e a t Goes Bang, The Aces, King Hammond and Folkestone’s own Intensified are lined up to play. The main venue and hub of the festival will be The Grand Burstin Hotel, overlooking the harbour. With 70 rooms and a fabulous stage area, DJ function rooms, bars, restaurant and even an indoor swimming pool, this is where the ‘Skabour Conga’ starts! U&A: Where does your nickname ‘ T e fl o n ’ c o m e from? JS: Many of us have nicknames at school or work. Mine came from the Chrysalis games room, which had a table tennis table and my holding the bat like a frying pan. (Teflon being synonymous with frying pan nonstick surfaces) and hence one of our A&R guys aptly named ‘Archie Andrews’ saying to all, ‘Oh, it’s the famous Teflon frying pan shot!’ ...So it stuck. U&A: What are your favourite bands of today? JS: My taste in music is pretty cosmopolitan. I saw a great local band recently called Blaise Paisel. Count Bobo from Bristol are ones to watch. Seasick Steve, Mumford & Sons, Paloma Faith currently. The Who, The Kinks, The Animals, The Rolling Stones, Beach Boys, Them, The Pretty Things from the past. Stiff Little Fingers are still brilliant. In Ska I love all
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the bands and The Selecter are fab and really tight and a great band. The Specials obviously, plus The Beat, Madness and Bad Manners. Probably The Dualers, The Estimators, Blaster M a s t e r, The Skamanians, King H a m m o n d , , TootNskamen, The S k a t o n i c s , Sidewalk Doctors, The Upsessions (brill!) and more are all up there. U&A: You have a book coming out this year we hear? JS: Yes, after fans asking for many years, I am in the final preparations for writing and producing my book, This Art 2Tone. It’s out in Autumn 2015 and published by the music sales group of Omnibus Press. It will show many of the 2-Tone designs, plus some development designs and layouts, video boards and some stories to go with them. It also features some of the fans and friends plus a few pages of some of those designs as tattoos on various parts... again I find that humbling and amazing that Ska fans have my ‘art’ inked on them for life. Find out more about Teflon’s artwork and 2Tone at www.2toneposters.co.uk and www.picturethisdesign.co.uk To get info on the Folkestone Skabour Festival visit www.skabour.co.uk
Images © John Sims. Used by permission
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Jonny Owen You can’t have missed the recent cinematic sensation, Svengali which hit the cinemas last year. it tells the story of Dixie, a postman from South Wales, who tries to make it big in the music industry, managing the band he thinks will be the next big thing. Darron J Connett, no stranger to the music biz himself, caught up with Svengali director, writer and star, Jonny Owen for Up&Atom recently... Darron J Connett: From Youtube sensation to the silver screen in five years - was there ever a time you thought Svengali wasn’t going to reach it’s full potential? Jonny Owen: Loads! My lowest moment was when Wall 2 Wall took it on and then said they didn’t want it anymore. It’s the equivalent of getting signed and then kicked off the label before you’ve even released your first single. I can remember having the mail from them and walking toward High Street Kensington and I actually thought, well, it don’t get any lower than this. But I stuck at it and made a few more for the net and amazingly it got picked up by someone and made into a film. DJC: It’s certainly inspired me and many others that we know. We all sort of rolled around in the Svengali bubble that still hasn’t popped! Does that make you wake up with a huge smile, knowing that this is the beginning of much bigger things? JO: Well, it’s true that things have taken off in the sense that I’ve been offered lots of stuff now. TV, film and acting jobs. It’s lovely that people have been inspired by it and it’s got some amazing fans, the best really. Good people who have bought into the spirit of it. I’ve made some life long friends because of it and that’s the best part of it all. DJC: For me, Svengali meant so much more because I recognise the type of people in the music industry that the film portrayed. Are they based on early experiences from your Pocket Devil [Jonny’s band in the 1990s] days or real people you’ve encountered? JO: Yes, lots of people were like, ‘Is that meant to be so-and-so?’ and I was like, ‘Yes, indeed it was!’ I was so pleased that people like Shaun Ryder and Pete Hooton [said] I can tell you knew that world. It’s insane really. I mean as the great Alan McGee said, it’s the only industry in the world where bad behaviour is actively encouraged. Sums it up really. DJC: The Svengali soundtrack was amazing and constantly playing in my house! Was it hard to get the license release? JO: Well, we got a great guy on board called Ian Neil who got all the music I needed. He was a top, top guy. Once we got The Who (or High Numbers) for an excellent rate it all kind of fell into place which was great. I’m glad you like it by the way. Nice one! DJC: You touched on mod snobbery in the film with Don the Mod (played by Martin Freeman). Is that something you’ve received or witnessed or was that you just simply taking the piss out of the so-called tickets who walk around in target t-shirts, cheap parkas and dodgy desert boots? JO: No, I was taking the piss out of the snobs! Ha ha, nothing worse! Embrace I say... love the kids and the lads who wear targets - better than them wearing Black Eyed Peas t-shirts isn’t it?! I’m all for mod being a broad church. The biggest myth is that you can be an expert in anything. The more you delve into a subject, the more it grows and you realise how much there really is out there. I’m still learning things about Modernism and I love that. It’s infinite because it’s all about opinions and people, and that’s the genius of it.
Find out more at: www.svengalimovie.com
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The Famous and Fascinating History of Peckham Rye London based menswear brand Peckham Rye are famous for their ties, scarves and all things the gentleman needs to accessorise his sharp suit. Their tailoring history dates back to 1813 and the East Indian Company and makes a fascinating tale. Author Mark Baxter dropped into the Carnaby Street shop for a quick chat on behalf of Up&Atom. Mark Baxter: The story behind Peckham Rye is fascinating. Can you give our readers a brief resume of how and when it all began? Martin Brighty: Being a Londoner, I’m well versed in rhyming slang and being in the trade - the clothing world - making for many of the high end labels here and abroad, I decided to create the alter ego of our Savile Row background and bring a bit of edge back to the accessory side, as I felt things had started to go round the houses a bit with a lot of what was being worn out there - this was a while back now. The choice for blokes just wasn’t available, and all the time the prices seemed to be going up, some of the mainline stores and brands were just telling us to repeat what we did last season or so and no one was taking much interest in what we felt was an important part of a blokes styling. Obviously with tailoring in our backgrounds, shirting and all the rest, we were able to go through our very own archives plus all the family photos and patterns we have and put very tight collections together that encompassed scarves, ties, handkerchiefs and all sorts of bits and pieces in a really imaginative and very contemporary way. We carry that mantle on and our ambition is as it always has been in the firm - that a gentleman should dress just a little bit above his station in life and in that way people will think no less of him. Bax: So from very hard times, a family made a lifetime career out of style really? Martin: Around the late 17th century a few of my forebears ended up at the ropes end... pity really, from what I’ve read in the court proceedings they seemed alright to me... anyway, one of the boys does manage to keep himself out of harms way for a bit, until he ends up working for a criminal family in the East End. It works out Daniel McCarthy (he’d be my great-great-great-great-grandfather) in 1795 had, in today’s money, over a million quids worth of goods and stuff to his name, or so the insurance certificate shows. He was selling clothes to Nelson’s navy, wearing apparel and the like. What’s odd about that
though is he could barely hold a pen and it turns out he’s a front for a team that like a fire every now and then! Chances are when the fleet sails if you ask me, and there’s no such thing as a 50% off sale back in 1795, so up the lot goes and pretty much Daniel’s life of crime continues! He is quite the entrepreneur through and sells my great-great-great-grandfather, Tommy McCarthy to the East India company at the grand old age of 8. Daniel ended up being transported in 1830 for highway robbery! They let him off the death sentence as he was intoxicated at the time of the offence and he put his hands up on a guilty plea. His missus had disappeared in about 1828, where she went is anyone’s guess. Doubt if he got much for her though! Young Tommy, he’s the star of the show in my eyes. At 8 years old he presents himself to the Fort of St. George in Madras, India and he’s off to the tailoring depot. In 1813 his apprenticeship is up and he is at 14, a tailor of the British Empire. What a chap. I’m proud of him. Bax: Can you give us a flavour of how you personally got involved in it all? Where did you do your apprenticeship and training? Martin: Like anything else in our trade, you go where you’re told and it was no different for me. My working life was round the back of Savile Row, in Coach & Horses Yard. What amazes me is that my later forebears were working about a hundred years earlier across the street from there. I figured in about 140 years, as a family we moved no more than 100 yards. I still walk up Pollen Street where their workrooms were in 1901. So from all my time back from the early 1980s, we’d always been around the tailoring side of the line, either at home or at work, you can’t say you ever finish your training in our trade, because you’re forever learning as new looms come in or styles get chopped and changed around. Bax: I know you have worked closely with your business partner David for many years. How did you two meet?
We’d do the loop-de-loop in tailored suits! www.AtomRetro.com 11
12 www.AtomRetro.com New pair of shoes are on my feet... All good stuff, and really so useful to me. I’ve tried to remember it as best I can over the years but these days a lot of the buyers in the big shops aren’t interested, which I think does the eventual customer a bit of an injustice. If you’re paying a lot, you should expect a lot. I can’t see what’s the matter with that, but it’s all cash and wrap these days. So we continue to do and give the service levels we were taught, you’ve more time to get it right than wrong. Martin: Back in Savile Row in the eighties. It was a very different place then to how it is now. More of a village then, I’d say. It was a great laugh too. I look back and to this day I really feel we saw the last of the old school tailors and cutters. There was a proper pecking order amongst firms then, but you could walk into any pub round there and you knew someone who you could pitch up with and have a laugh and a chat. Dave and I formally trained and worked together, if you could call it that. We had a boss we only ever saw at the Christmas party and everyone seemed to just do their own thing. I don’t know how it all survived, but the company went on to be the biggest brand in Italy for what it made, for the funniest of reasons in my opinion. There were some real characters as well, like our Italian sales agent, who learned his English in a prisoner of war camp here. To hear him speaking was so funny, and I remember once going into the showroom and our German sales director was saluting the sales agent and they were both marching up and down! We weren’t allowed to touch any fabrics, not for ages, because they were so expensive, so we always had to practice on newspaper and tissue, making things, and we would get lectures from the older lot about different fabrics and what they would do on the cutting board, etc.
Bax: Where do you get your influences from for the styles of scarves you produce? Martin: That’s a good one. It’s not that we are living in any one time zone, but for me I love paisley designs, they’re just perfection. I can do so much with them. When I go back through the books here and we can see what designs were hand blocked and we can see where the repeats are and so much more than just the design itself, it all helps us to ensure we give people a chance to see and maybe wear something that’s got a bit more behind it than just a label. I’m influenced all the time by the family saying, I just want people to feel smart and be proud to wear something that we have made for them. I want our pieces to be amongst their best and most favoured articles of clothing. Bax: Are you constantly on the look out for new ideas? Martin: Yeah, we always chat amongst ourselves and go through the books and the photos here. We never copy others and never look at others work. I don’t think or feel comfortable about taking others work, although I get lots - some of the biggest names in the clothing world coming in, taking photos, talking to me, I always know when people are trade and I’ve had some of the greatest compliments ever paid to me, one from a leading global brand. The fella said, ‘We
...Cos' fashion is my only culture spend millions to get people to think of us like you actually are.’ That’s because we have tailoring heritage, all documented from right back, and as I walk around and see all these fancy shops saying things like how British they are, I have a bit of a laugh to myself. Do they think customers are that daft?! Bax: Who are your personal ‘style icons’? Who cuts the mustard for you? Martin: We work with a lot of regiments and military types. It’s these people that are the real stars round here, without a doubt there is a certain air of bearing and confidence that your British army officer has, and these gentlemen typify the understated elegance of all that is correct in tailoring and finishing touches. Bax: As well as scarves and ties, you’re also producing tailoring. How is that progressing? Martin: We blend everything together. We’ve tailored for ages, but it was always behind the scenes activity, which we brought to the fore a few years ago now. It’s great to be able to show this front of house now, being more open about what we do these days. Our attitude really harks back to our early days, you never talk about customers and what you’re up to... It might be a bit more free and easy out there nowadays, but for us we just maintain a peaceful dignity of ensuring our clients and customers are well attended to. Bax: Any famous customers popping into your Newburgh Street shop? Martin: As above really. We shy away from publicity, well I do, in fact this is the first interview I’ve ever given, I think! And as such, we’re unable to name names... save to say, some of the worlds foremost gentlemen I have had the pleasure to meet. Bax: Finally, what’s the future for Peckham Rye? Martin: We are just about to launch our first ready to wear collection. It’s a range of suits, coats, shirts, knitwear, the lot. We have worked alongside award winning designers who all got involved and with our blocks and patterns helped us, because going from bespoke to ready to wear is a big jump. We have maintained everything of who we are and what the brand stands for in our new pieces, which we can’t wait to get out there. So it’s all very exciting and new for us, as we strive to ensure a gent will never be thought of in any less a light wearing our brand. Find Peckham Rye at: www.AtomRetro.com/peckham_rye
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A Quick guide for buying Cockney Menswear Don’t get your Whistle and Toot mixed up with your Dicky Dirt - here’s the quick guide to shopping for menswear, Cockney style.
Peckham Rye = Tie That’s a fine Peckham Rye you have around your Gregory there. (Gregory Peck = neck)
Whistle and toot = Suit Lookin’ sharp in that new whistle, mate!
Weasel and Stoat = Coat Pass my weasel over, I’m going home.
Centre Half = Scarf That’s a nice centre half. Is it from Peckham Rye?
Rhythm and Blues = Shoes These new Rhythm and Blues ain’t half hurting me plates. (Plates of meat = feet)
Widow Twanky = Hanky The finishing touch to any outfit is a Widow Twanky in the top pocket of your whistle.
Dicky Dirt = Shirt Wear your nice new Dicky Dirt for the job interview.
Lollipop = Shop Got me new clobber at that Lollipop online
Bethnel Greens = Jeans When I’m not in my whistle, I always wear a nice pair of Bethnels.
Heritage Scottish brand, Lyle & Scott arrived at Atom Retro last Winter. Famous for their knitwear and polos, Lyle & Scott with it’s iconic Golden Eagle logo, clean cut shapes and premium quality has been a favourite of mods, modernists and casuals for years. Here’s just a taste of whats in store this season, plus we took the chance to catch up with Lyle & Scott’s Jean-Paul Cassidy to get the low down on the brand...
Interest Knits Lyle & Scott’s knitwear is among the finest in the world so every season a range of seasonal interest knits arrive. Check out this seasons cable knits and Mouline yarn jumpers.
Classic Knits No summer wardrobe is complete without Lyle & Scott classic cotton knits - choose from lots of staple and seasonal colours in crew or Vneck.
Archive 80s Geo Graphics One of this seasons theme collections is the 1980s Archive Geo Graphics. Blocks and squares designs taken from the Lyle & Scott archive and reworked for 2015.
Tartan Collection You can’t have a Scottish fashion brand without some tartan in there! This one is Lyle & Scott’s house tartan. Find it appearing in many guises from shirts through to polos and beyond. Find these and more at: www.atomretro.com/lyle_and_scott
...Cos' fashion is my only culture Up&Atom: Lyle & Scott’s name is synonymous with so many iconic eras in sports, fashion and even music. What do you think makes the brand so appealing? John-Paul Cassidy: I think that the fact that the brand has such a rich heritage is exactly the reason for it’s appeal. Many brands would love to be able to say that they have been around for 140 years, because that inherently speaks of a quality and appreciation of style that has stood the test of time. In respect to embracing this heritage, as you can imagine, we have a huge archive that the designers constantly revisit to draw inspiration from, and that may be in the form of reworking patterns, silhouettes, colours or even fabrication details that have been used in the past. U&A: What’s the history behind Lyle & Scott? JPC: As I’ve already mentioned the brand is 140 years old. It’s name comes from its original founders, William Lyle and Walter Scott, who set up a knitwear business in the town of Hawick in the Scottish Borders (where the factory and warehouse is still based) to originally satisfy the demand for underwear by a thriving Victorian society. Due to the success of this, they were able to expand and some years later began making larger knitted outerwear garments that soon developed a global reputation for being a premium wellcrafted product. By the 1950s this reputation led to the launch of a dual-branded cashmere c o l l e c t i o n w i t h C h r i s t i a n D i o r. L a t e r collaborations with Yves Saint Laurent, Channel and Liberty department store also followed and this continued success and growing reputation led to the brand being appointed with the Royal Warrant in 1975. U&A: What’s the story behind the iconic Golden Eagle motif? JPC: The Golden Eagle, which has become the primary logo of the brand, originated in the 1960s when the brand launched a golf wear range. An ‘eagle’ being the golfing term for achieving two shots below par. This new relationship with golf brought even greater exposure on the global stage, not only because it was worn by pro golfers, but also many A-list golf fans like Bob Hope and Bing Crosby. U&A: What’s in store in the future for Lyle & Scott? JPC: Being a heritage brand, there will always be certain styles of garments that the brand is synonymous with - ie. lambswool knitwear and our basic pique polo shirts in lots of colours. And whilst being proud of the fact that we are known for these garments, in such a
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competitive industry we also understand the importance of the collections evolution season on season, so we don’t just rely on these staple styles. Going forward you will see a lot more use of interesting textures and patterns and even use of mixed fabrics on single garments. We have a very talented design team in place who come up with an initial concept then begin designing, sourcing and even develop certain fabrics from scratch that allow them to tell a story that fits the initial concept. As well as this, there is a long process of dialogue, consultation and decision making with the sales and merchandising teams, to make sure there is a balance between interesting design and a commercially successful end product. For instance, just by changing the colour pallet of a heavily textured or patterned garment can make the difference between a top seller and a garment that doesn’t make it into production because buyers perceive it as a risky buy. U&A: What themes will we see from Lyle & Scott? JPC: There are quite a lot of retro sportswear references. As well as being very much a trend within the casual menswear industry at the moment, it makes sense for us to do this not only because of our sportswear heritage within golf, bit also because Lyle & Scott was adopted as one of the visible brands of choice on the football terraces across the country way back in the seventies and eighties when the casual scene really blew up. So its always good to play to your strengths. U&A: Why do you think Lyle & Scott appeals to modernists? JPC: I think it appeals because it was at the forefront of fashion design during the conception of the modernist movement. Only today I was looking through the brands archive at pieces from the 50s and 60s and the simplicity of the silhouettes, clean lines and unfussy detailing, along with confident use of colour was very much of the mod style and movement. My parents were mods in the sixties and when I told my mum I had got the job with Lyle & Scott, she informed me that when her and my dad were on their honeymoon in Jersey many moons ago (they won’t thank me for saying that!) she bought my dad a Lyle & Scott jumper as a honeymoon gift (nice touch!) So there you go, the original mods were all over it! Also, as I said earlier, many of the current pieces within the collection have the same fabrications that they did back then. I imagine this sort of authentic detailing is exactly what todays mods look for in a garment of choice.
12 www.AtomRetro.com They say it’s your birthday! ...
... It’s my birthday too, yeah!
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Atom was 10 2014 was Atom Retro’s 10th anniversary. Celebrating a decade of bringing you the finest in retro, mod and heritage fashion here’s some snaps from our (ongoing) celebrations! Who was in with the In Crowd? Page 16: 1. David and Martin from Peckham Rye 2. John Hellier 3. Atom customer, Lee Haig 4. Mark Sheridan from FLY53 5. Mel and Pete Challis from Delicious Junction 6. Simon Parr from Gibson London 7. Jack from Lee Jeans. Page 17: 8. Harry the Cat 9. Beatle fan on the Magical Mystery Tour (Pic by Neil - thanks Neil!) 10. The Atom Retro Shop, Malton 11. The Revolvers in The Sounds Of The Sixties. Page 18: 12. The Cave Dwellers - Nick Robinson, Neil Carter and Tim Shaw, with Neil B from The Cavern 13. Darron J Connett 14. Phoenix FC’s under 11’s team (Sponsored by Atom Retro) 15. Beatle fans from Brazil at The Cavern Club, Liverpool 16. Gavin Pring and The Fab Four 17. Joel Rogers 18. DJ Jacqui Carroll 19. Harry again. Page 19: 20. Author, Terry Rawlings 21. The Cavern Beatles 22. Emily Jackson & Daniel Smith from Black Noire 23. Atom customer, Kern Johannes 24. Godfrey from Gabicci Vintage 25. Atom customer and designer, Katie Argens.
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Terry Rawlings A Very British Phenomenon
Through his vast knowledge of music from both working within the industry and as a fan, author Terry Rawlings has created works worthy of any music connoisseurs collection. His impeccably researched Mod: A Very British Phenomenon and Brian Jones: Who Killed Christopher Robin? are staple books in many a household and he has earned a reputation as an authoritative figure within the mod scene. Gibson London’s Simon Parr invited Terry to his London Showroom and this is what he had to say: Simon Parr: How did you first become a parka for another. From Decca Records I went writer? onto Sire Records, where we were doing this Small Faces fanzine. Paul Weller liked the Terry Rawlings: I was expelled from school in fanzine and it was Paul who opened the door the 5th year for doing graffiti on the walls for me to start writing. Paul Weller, after getting outside the school gates. The school was at our fanzine, started one of his own up called Dockhead, and we were right on the docks. I Decembers Child and I did some bits and got the white liner that was used to mark out pieces for that, and it was him who suggested I the pitches and I wrote all along the back should write a book. where the docks were, ‘Mr Shields is a c***’. My friend was up a wall, painting over a lot of SP: And that was All Our Yesterdays? The graffiti and I thought I can’t let him take the Small Faces Book? blame for it so I stupidly owned up. After I was expelled, I didn’t really have a career or TR: Yes. I was working for Sire Records (Home anything in mind until I got a job in the post of The Ramones and The Pretenders) and me room at Decca Records, which [DJ and and a friend of mine, Tony Lordon - he was the presenter] Gary Crowley got me. I just sort of bass player in Department S (of Is Vic There? replaced him. He left on the Friday and I fame) - we used to do a fanzine called Sha La started on the Monday. It was sort of like-for- La La Lee (not very imaginative, I know!) about like because we both dressed the same and The Small Faces. Back then, we’re talking the studio manager just thought it was one about 1980, The Small Faces had been totally forgotten, nobody knew about them; the profile
Terry Rawlings at Decca Records, 1980
...Cos' fashion is my only culture they’ve got now wouldn’t have been dreamed of back then. The only album you could get was on Charly Records, anything else you couldn’t get hold of. Paul Weller had got into The Small Faces. He was a big fan of The Kinks and The Who, and he got into The Small Faces too. We used to do the fanzine on the photocopier in the Sire Records office and Paul would come and get it. We’d done about three issues and then he suggested the idea to do a bigger version of it, like a pamphlet or a minibook thing, which we called All Our Yesterdays. I’d found all these photographs that hadn’t been seen back then. Nobody cared about them. They had reformed once and no one cared. The band had 3 of the Small Faces in it and they’d been playing pubs. SP: That was minus Ronnie Lane wasn’t it? TR: Yeah, he came back for about a day and then they had a bit of a punch up and he left again, so Rick Wills from Foreigner, who’s in Kenny Jones’ band now, joined instead. But they couldn’t get arrested, you know? They didn’t look like The Small Faces, to be honest, they looked like Smokie, you know, all weird. So, Paul came up with the idea of doing a better version of the fanzine and that was my first attempt at writing something. We did this little pamphlet thing that he got printed up, and they sold them on The Jam’s merchandising stall at the gigs. We re-printed it a few times. It started to turn people onto The Small Faces. It reminded people [of them]. I never big myself up about it but it was the only thing you could get then on The Small Faces and it caught people’s imaginations. People only knew about The Who and The Kinks, in that ’79 Mod Revival, and they didn’t know about The Small Faces. It started a little Small Faces revival, I’m pretty sure, and look at where it is now. I don’t even have a copy of the book anymore, which is quite sad. It wasn’t a great literary advancement on my part, but after that Paul suggested I do another book, a serious book, and that turned out to be twenty years of researching the Brian Jones murder. So it was
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down to what Paul said and his help that got me going, so I owe it all to him. SP: That became Who Killed Christopher Robin: The Truth Behind The Killing Of Brian Jones, about the life and death of Brian Jones from The Rolling Stones. TR: When I worked at Decca, it seemed everybody had been there since the 1960s and they all had a story about Brian Jones and speculated on his death. The edition that is out now is the third edition. We had to do a second edition when we realised how many mistakes we’d made in the first, after we got new information, new police files, new home office files and more interviews. We’d realised we’d made so many glaring mistakes in the first one we had to do a second one just to put it all right. So we had about 80% of the story put right in the second edition, but there were still massive areas where we weren’t sure of things. Then I got ill and I was out of the game for about a year when I had cancer and in the meantime I heard a guy had beat me to the new police files which had been released after forty years. Paul Spendel was going to do a book and he was asking me for help. I said, ‘Listen, it’s only right that I’ve done this much work and you’ve just jumped in at the last minute and got the last files because I was ill, why don’t you join me and we’ll put out a third edition - that is the ultimate edition - and we’ll share the grief and the glory, so to speak?’ He was a nice fella and he was up for doing it, so it made sense to collaborate. SP: The book was used as a basis for the film Stoned which was released in 2005. What was your role in the film? TR: I was the consultant on the film. I was glad the film was made, but I thought the dream sequences, because they went away from what we really knew, I thought they were - not a cop out - but I’m not a fan of dream sequences in any films, shall we say? It was a shame it didn’t do better, but we’re now doing a serious
22 www.AtomRetro.com New pair of shoes are on my feet... documentary version of it, with all the new information, so we’re not letting it drop yet! We hope to finish that, well, tomorrow. We’re in the editing suite tomorrow, but I’m sure we’ll end up doing another couple of days. We’re hoping to get it out by the end of the year. SP: Another very well known book of yours was Mod: A Very British Phenomenon. How did that one come about? TR: I was asked to do the mod book by Omnibus Press. They had a book out ten to fifteen years before that focused pretty much on specific bands and performers. Mod was an expansion of this, broadening the focus somewhat. It was an experiment from Omnibus. SP: What was it that first got you interested in the mod scene and that era? TR: It wasn’t just being a mod, it was liking all things 1960s. It was liking all them classic 1960s TV programmes. I was a very sickly kid, so I spent a lot of time in front of the television when I was little and it was all that imagery really that I found enveloped all of it together. So in that essence I’m not a true mod, I’m just really into the sixties and mod is just one facet of all that. SP: Who are your musical heroes? TR: I try not to idolise people because I find you can be let down if you ever meet them. Although having said that, I’ve met people that have turned out to be wonderful. It seems that my idols are either dead or I’m sort of discovering them far later in life than I should
have done. I’ve just got into The Smiths and how long have they been broken up?! SP: Tell us about Harmony In My Head, the Steve Diggle book? TR: Harmony In My Head was the book about Steve Diggle from The Buzzcocks. Steve had had been in a scooter accident in Spain and he’d broken his wrist. They put a metal plate in it which meant he couldn’t play guitar anymore. He seemed to be out of action for about a year. We had this place called The Gallery, which was just a glorified drinking bar with really fantastic rock ‘n’ roll pictures. It was opened by John Entwistle. I said, ‘If you’re going to be sitting around for a year, lets do a Buzzcocks book,’ so that’s what we did! A review of the book said it seemed like it was written by two blokes sitting in a pub and it was! SP: Let’s discuss style. What are your favourite brands or styles? TR: Well, that’s easy - obviously Gibson London, Madcap England and of course Delicious Junction. There you go, the hat-trick! SP: What are you working on now? TR: In conjunction with the Brian Jones documentary, I’m actually working with Martin Chambers from The Pretenders on a book about his rock and roll journey and The Pretenders story. We’ve put three little Youtube interviews out with him, we’ve got another two to go. Find more info at www.terryrawlings.co.uk
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Lee Jeans is one of the most famous names in denim. Founded in 1889, the brand celebrated its 125th anniversary last year. It first made workwear jackets from its Kansas based factory. Lee Jeans made the first overall, was the first to use a zip fly and designed the first skinny jean. Up&Atom caught up with Lee Jeans’ Jack Smith to ask him about their 125th birthday and all things Lee... U&A: Jack, you work for world famous denim brand Lee Jeans. How did you manage to land that job? Jack Smith: I’ve only been in the industry a few years. I graduated from uni in 2011, Jack visiting the Atom completing a business Retro shop, Malton management degree. (and with Atom is 10 While there I did a 7 month placement at badge!) George head office, as an assistant merchandiser. I was based on their women’s fast fashion department. Merchandising was interesting, however I wanted to be on the suppliers side of the fence, therefore I started with [Lee Jeans owners] VF in 2011 as an account administrator and I have now progressed into a Lee sales rep role, which I started full time last July. My role focuses on building and developing our independent distributions throughout the UK. U&A: Lee Jeans recently celebrated it’s 125th anniversary. How did the brand celebrate this milestone? JS: 2014 was a huge year for the brand and something I was proud to be a part of. 125 years and still going strong is an excellent achievement. We celebrated by collaborating with four different designer who made their own collections, putting their mark on a Lee product, one of which was Donwan Harrell. He is a designer for premium brand, PRPS. This was great for Lee Jeans profile and tied in with our ‘Let’s Celebrate’ campaign. U&A: What has Lee Jeans got in the pipeline for this year?
JS: We are looking to build on the positive momentum of the brand in 2015. Already this year we have collaborated with Scandanavian brand, Soulland - this was a capsule collection that was only available in London and Paris. I can’t say too much, but 2015 should be even bigger and better than 2014. U&A: We love the Lee Jeans ‘Buddy Lee’ mascot. How does he tie in the to the Lee Jeans brand? JS: ‘Buddy Lee’ is a true brand ambassador! He was created in the 1920s as an advertising mascot. He debuted in the window of the Dayton Company department story in Minneapolis, USA. He quickly gained celebrity status and and has even been used by Coca-Cola too, where he wore a deliveryman uniform. In 1949 Buddy was sold as a toy doll and by the sixties he’d become the second highest selling doll in the US. Today Buddy is a collectable item and always attracts interest wherever he may be. U&A: Finally, what are your current favourite Lee Jeans styles? JS: In bottoms, it would have to be our slim tapered fit, Luke - in particular the ‘Top Blue’ finish. I have too many pairs of these jeans! Our denim western shirts are timeless as well as our Rider Denim Jackets. The black Rider Jacket is a personal favourite. I’m also usually sporting a crew neck sweatshirt!
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Mens Luke Slim Our fave style from Lee Jeans. Luke is a super modern slim fit jean with regular waist, tapered leg and a skinny fit at the ankle. Available in tons of colours, and also the Luke Dart for Summer 2015, with a darted leg for a great fit.
Trenton Bootcut A new fit from Lee Jeans which will be available this Summer. Trenton Bootcut is a slim fit jean with a regular waist and a classic bootcut. Slim through the leg and then bootcut at the calf for an easy to wear, casual jean. Look out for it arriving soon.
Rider Slim Lee’s classic denim jacket in a fantastic slim fit. Available all year round in classic indigo and stonewash denim, look out for a host of seasonal colours each season too.
Darren Slim Another classic style from Lee. The Darren Slim is one of Lee’s best selling styles. A regular fit style with a regular waist and a slim cut leg. Classic and authentic denim from Lee Jeans.
Find these and more at: www.atomretro.com/lee_jeans
Womens Joliet Bootcut Flare
Toxey Super Skinny
We absolutely love the Joliet style from Lee Jeans - available this summer. A modern cut bootcut jean with regular rise, a vintage style double button fasten and in a slim, trim, super flattering fit.
Rider Slim The women’s fit in the classic Lee Jeans denim jacket. A slim fit jacket in a classic style. Look out for the Boyfriend fit version of this fab style due in this summer too.
A super skinny fab pair of jeans which Lee Jeans says ‘hoists and holds in all the right places!’ Low cut waist with a short rise, this super skinny features a long leg which subtly scrunches up at the ankle for a flattering look.
Scarlett Skinny Lee’s most famous women’s skinny style - the Scarlett is available in lots of colours every season. A classic 5 pocket skinny jean with a regular waist and ankle length fit. Lee Jeans describe this one as ‘streamlined, snug and supremely stretchy’.
Find these and more at: www.atomretro.com/ lee_jeans_womens
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A Well Dressed Mark Powell is one of London’s most iconic bespoke tailors. Established in 1985 and renowned for his classically inspired tailoring, combined with experimental cuts and styling, he was one of the first to successfully bridge the gap between the traditional Savile Row with contemporary street style. Over the years Mark Powell has dressed many actors and musicians including Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Tom Jones, George Clooney and Harrison Ford, among many more and designed costumes for Brit flicks Absolute Beginners, Shopping and Gangster No. 1. Darron J Connet caught up with Mark recently... Darron J Connett: Your new collection was unveiled recently and it always strikes me that whatever you design, it’s something that you would personally wear. Is that important to you? Mark Powell: Not at all actually. I designed most of this eight or nine years ago, but nine times out of ten it eventually becomes fashionable. I was doing the short 1 button jacket 13 years ago and people were laughing at it then - now look, the normal average guys are wearing them these days! And the Edwardian Peaky Blinders look is something else I always did. I understand things and like things, but it doesn’t mean I could wear them. DJC: You always dress very dapper and it seems you never have a day off from that. Do you ever slouch around in your PJs or an old pair of track suit bottoms at home? MP: I always have days when I dress casual, but I always think about how I look. I don’t just bung anything on. It depends how confident I feel at the time, but I do have the smoking jacket and the monochrome slippers! DJC: Thank God for that! You’ve restored my faith! What with all the TV shows like Peaky Blinders , Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire, it seems to me that the younger generation, or maybe just men in general, are dressing smarter in a classic sense. Have you a favourite item of clothing or accessory that has come back to the high street? MP: I think it’s b e e n happening for the last three y e a r s , especially with shows like Mad Men, and I t h i n k young men in general h a v e realised
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Man About Town that you look much more stylish - it’s a far more powerful thing than looking outrageous, plus there’s no new street styles coming though. As I do, they are drawing on nostalgia, but I’m not stuck in the 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s - I draw on all the decades looks. I did a suit for Bradley Wiggins when he got the Sports Personality of The Year award. It was 60s [looking] but also has that Edwardian look about it. It’s the same with the suits I’ve done for actor, Martin Freeman. M a r k Powell historically h a s always b e e n nostalgic. I really like the return of the Rude Boy look y o u n g k i d s looking stylish and dressing like their grandparents would have dressed. DJC: Your career has had many high points; creating suits for some of the world’s biggest rockstars, actors, sportsmen - even famous gangsters, the Krays. What’s been the proudest moment? MP: I’m an egotistical b*stard and have always thrived on my ego. I’ve done this all on my own, I’ve never had to give my clothes away to people to get credit, I’m pretty proud of what I’ve done and what I do and I’ve lived a very interesting life. [I’ve] done it on my own terms and I’ve got more credibility than most brands have got but I don’t create some mythical story around it. I’m from a very working class family but I have hung out with John Kennedy Jr, dressed George Clooney, Mick Jagger and Harrison Ford to name a few, and some of these have become friends. DJC: Your style transcends fashion and you’ve never been influenced by current trends. You always stick to your guns - how difficult has that been in an ever evolving industry?
MP: Well, when you think of British style, people think of David Niven, driving a sports car in a tweed suit, but I’ve always combined that with post-war working class street culture like Teds, Mods, Skinheads, Punks - with the passion of crafted Savile Row tailoring. If you get it and understand it and make beautifully crafted suits, you can’t go wrong. Because I take so many diverse elements, even in my ready to wear range, there’s a difference b e t w e e n fashion and style. I do the opposite to what’s going on in the mainstream. L a t e l y , everything has been very short and over tailored, (very sixties mod going on), so for me it’s now about a fifties feel; longer jackets and high waist peg trousers with turn ups. I love all those looks right from 1958 modernism right up to The Kinks, Carnaby Dandy look - if it’s done right it can look great, but if done wrong it can look a bit fancy dress. I always put my own subtle spin on it because style can cross ages but fashion can’t, and as I’ve said, I always do my own thing. DJC: You’re one of Soho’s leading character and Soho has always been a colourful area. Is it still London’s most dapper district? MP: It’s become very corporate and it’s losing its identity a bit. We need some young energy injected into it. It’s all gone over to Shoreditch now, as has some of the creative industries, but people love Soho and it’s still a very magical area but something is needed, like a bar or a club to spark a new scene, but as Soho has such a strong soul it will always have something of an edge - the streets and the history. DJC: Mark Powell, it’s been an absolute pleasure. Thanks for your time and the coffee! Images © Mark Powell
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A Seaside Riot
Over 50 years on from the riots of the 'folk devils' we take look at the rivalry of the early 1960's between the Mods and the Rockers, and ask which side you'd be on? Beautiful seaside towns such as Margate, Brighton, Bournemouth and Clacton were the setting for the not so beautiful brawls between the two subcultures which resulted in many arrests and fines. Not surprising really when you hear that coshes, bike chains and knives were some of the favourable weapons used, some even got creative and made their own weapons for example, sewing fish hooks or razor blades into the backs of their lapels which they used to shred the fingers of their opposition. Beaches were turned into battlefield resulting in not only a lot of arrests but plenty of casualties too. The fights took place on the Bank Holiday weekend of 1964 when thousands of mods descended upon Margate, Broadstairs and Brighton only to find that thousands of rockers also had the same idea. Within the short time of the bank holiday mods and rockers were openly fighting upon the countries seasides, pieces of deck chair were another weapon often used by both. The worst cases were seen in Brighton where the brawls lasted for 2 days and even moved over to Hastings and then back again. Referred to as the 'second battle of hastings.' The media slated both groups and sparked panic for the youth of the 1960's. Even when the fighting had stopped the media began to associate Mods and Rockers with social issues such as teenage pregnancy. The riots have since been recognised as a very powerful moment in British history within fashion and culture. The Seaside Riots are a strong theme running through Summer fashion for this season. Here’s our quick guide to your retro Summer Essentials!
The Mods Ben Sherman Brighton Holdall A beautiful image of Brighton Pier and pebble beach, hard to think that this could be the setting for the Mods and Rockers riots! The image is mirrored to both sides with Navy straps and Brown Strengtheners which compliments the colouring of the scene perfectly. The bag also comes with 2 Navy shoulder straps and has a metal Ben Sherman button detail to the side.
Ben Sherman British Summertime Ben Sherman continue the British Summertime theme into what they do best - shirts. Find the Ben Sherman colourful pop art style Brighton rock print in this short sleeve shirt; a centrepiece of the collection. This fab print is found throughout the collection - Look out for matching pieces such as the Ben Sherman Brighton Rock Wallet. And of course British summer would be the same without a bit of rain! We love this wry take on that truism with this great Umbrella print shirt.
Pretty Green Deansgate Parka There are lots of summer parkas to choose from this season, but one of our top picks is the Pretty Green Deansgate Parka. Think, The Who, 1960's Mods and of course Liam Gallagher himself. Classic fishtail detail to the reverse and mod standing collar. Lightweight Cotton outer and unlined means the Deansgate is perfect for summer. Now available in three colours too Khaki, Stone and Camouflage.
Madcap England Lazy Daisy Dress Very hard to pick just one summer dress from the huge range we have this summer, but if you’re heading down to the beach, you couldn’t go far wrong with the lovely Lazy Daisy Dress, new from Madcap England. You’ll recognise the sixties style daisy print from previous seasons, but this is a new sleeveless, summer style with a mod cut out collar. This is one of the cutest mod dresses around!
The Rockers Pretty Green Addison Racer Jacket The rocker look is of course nothing without the leather jacket, 'Addison' by Pretty Green is a stylish, statement jacket. The attention to detail is exquisite, with double zip front, two angled zip pockets to either side and also zip detailing to the sleeve. Another style favoured by Liam Gallagher and also a look which Arctic Monkey's front man Alex Turner is a fan of. We love a good racer jacket! Lyle & Scott Block Stripe Tee Channel your inner Brando with this fantastic bold stripe T-Shirt from Lyle & Scott. A bit of a cross over piece really, it’s a classic in anyone’s wardrobe! Eastwood Biker Boots The Eastwood Biker Boots also have a wild west feel about them. With vintage stitched panel upper and concertina gusset paired with a cool biker buckle. Team with a leather jacket for the ultimate biker look. Find these & more by searching SUMMERPICKS (as one word) on www.AtomRetro.com
Summer Essentials
Day at the beach? Take these 2015 Summer essentials with you 1. Bucket Hats Bucket hats have been making a comeback every since The Stone Roses reunion rumours started! We’ve selected a fantastic TukTuk Bucket Hat here, but there’s a massive range of plain and print styles to choose from. (Search: ‘Bucket Hat’) 2. Seaside Shirts Seaside themes are big this summer. This is Tuktuk’s Deck Chair shirt, but also checkout the excellent Ben Sherman British Summertime range. (Search: Deck Chair Shirt)
summer wear and a more stylish alternative to flip flops and sandals! (Search: Ipanema) 5. Retro Sunglasses Got to have the right shades to perfect your look! Wayfarer styles are back in this season, check out Ray-Ban’s originals, but these fab Luke 1977 style is a classic too at a great price. (Search: Mcqueen). 6. Board Shorts We love short shorts! We also love these Beach Boys style board shorts for lounging around all summer long! By Pendleton, the original Beach Boys brand! (Search: Board Shorts). 7. Beach Towel 3. Shoulder Bag finally, a fantastic premium quality range Gotta have something to carry it all! This Lyle & And of beach towel and authentic Navaho blankets Scott ‘Golf’ bag is perfect. Also comes with c/o Pendleton. Don’t leave home without one! golf tees for if the urge arises. (Search Beach Towel) 4. Basketweave Shoes Basketweave is a hot trend for this Summer. Find these & more by searching SUMMERPICKS (as one word) on www.AtomRetro.com These H by Hudson slip ons are great for
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Sounds of The Sixties The Revolvers - Stephen Hemming, David Hambridge, Lee Hambridge and Chris Webb feature in the Sounds Of The Sixties show, a 2 hour theatrical experience featuring, as you might guess, all the best music and songs from that legendary decade, the 1960s. Up&Atom caught up with Lee Hambridge from The Revolvers to see what the bands got in store for 2015 - look out for more from this fab band soon! The Revolvers and The Sound Of The Sixties show have had a fantastic start to 2015 so far. The year started with plenty of shows up and down the UK, performing all those golden hits to many a wonderful audience. The best gig so far was The March Of The Mods in Leamington Spa, a great day out for an even better cause so check out your nearest March Of The Mods event and support the charity and hear some of the best music from top quality bands, plus a lot of great floor fillers to get you spinning! The band are currently gearing up for a tour of the USA this April, bringing the British Invasion
back to American soil once more and to say we’re excited is an understatement! The clothing the band wear is just as important as the songs, and we’re proud to say that every suit, shirt and boot is from Madcap England and Atom Retro. It is a real honour to be wearing such great gear and hopefully our audiences will agree, the guys in the band look like they’ve just stepped back in time, walking down the Kings Road, circa 1964. Do you remember the music of The Kinks, The Small Faces, The Rolling Stones and of course those four loveable lads from Liverpool who called themselves The Beatles. Make sure you catch the Sounds Of The Sixties show - dates will be announced on our website. So dig out those Chelsea boots and step onboard our magical history tour for a night of non-stop music and n o s t a l g i a . (Screaming is optional!) The high fly high and the lights down low. Ladies and gentlemen It’s the Sounds Of The Sixties show! Find more info at: www.therevolvers .co.uk
32 www.AtomRetro.com New pair of shoes are on my feet...
A Pint With... Dan Nolan Dan Nolan is a producer/remixer, founder of Tribe, DJ of sorts, Wigan boy living in London. Dan got the production bug in the early 1980s when he struck up a friendship with the iconic DJ legend, Greg Wilson. The birth of the Acid House scene opened doors for him to get in the studio with his partner in crime, DJ Welly. Under the name Void, the pair ended up doing numerous remixes, released the underground smash, Orcana and briefly signed to Island Records. Dan ended up in Glasgow working with the legendary Harri of the world famous Sub Club, releasing tracks on Bomba Records. Since being in London he has curated the music alongside Electronic Youth for the Cass Pennant docu-film, Casuals. He is resident DJ at The Woodman in Highgate, London. Kevin Stone met up with Dan for a quick pint on behalf of Up&Atom... Kevin Stone: Hello Dan, busy lad as always, KS: What bands have you had on so far? tell me about your latest project, Tribe? DN: Well, the first one was held at The Dan Nolan: Tribe is something I wanted to set Boogaloo in Highgate, and it was a rather up because I wanted to create a regular successful night considering it was a freezing monthly event that is going to involve music January Tuesday night. My mate Steve Diggle from different genres. Give unsigned bands of The Buzzcocks did me a worldy and exposure, remix some of them if they wanted headlined. I had a very talented young singer/ and create a network of people connecting with songwriter, Izzy Sorrell perform and Violet each other. Like bands coming to watch bands, Class. The last one was at The Garage in if that makes any sense. Creatives getting Highbury with another great line up of country together each month and having a bevvie and rockers Stone Thieves, IndieMods, The Repeat listening to live music. I want to be able to put Offenders and what I call ‘ModPopBlues’ from on some established and signed artists as it Ross Harper and The 555s. I was DJ, playing grows. It’s not easy though. There’s lots of gigs anything from Blondie to Kraftwerk. every night in London so I’m trying my best to KS: Tell me about Tribe Radio. get the word out and make it appealing. DN: The radio thing is something I do from
...Cos' fashion is my only culture home. It’s a bit of fun and it’s a good promotional tool to preview the events, showcase the performers and mention any sponsors. Bang it on social media, Mixcloud, etc and you can reach a lot of people, especially with retweets from any celebrity contacts. KS: You also DJ with Paul Gallagher [brother of Noel and Liam]? DN: I met Paul through Svengali actor, and dear friend, Jonny Owen. Me and Helen (my missus) were extras on Jonny’s virals of Svengali [short films on Youtube] before it was a film and Paul was playing himself in this episode down at Acid Jazz’s offices. We got to be good mates
through Jonny really. Paul and I sometimes do The Woodman in Highgate together. I’m a resident there and Paul is my guest from time to time. He’s great to have on and his music taste is bang on. People really enjoy his sets of rare Ska, reggae, rare soul grooves, mod and punk. All sorts really, but cool, y’know? I’m off to Germany with Paul for the Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds gig and initially I was going to be helping out with the DJ-ing, but it turns out the venues have their own guys out there, so it will just be Paul. I’m not complaining though, I get to see NGHFB again, only this time in Düsseldorf. KS: With your producing head on, what’s your most famous track to date and your dream track to re-mix?
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DN: I would have to say my most famous track would be Who Can Make You Feel Good; a remix I did with DJ legend, Welly for The Bassheads back in 1990 I think. It came out on Deconstruction which was a pretty big label at the time and go to number 20 in the charts, which was pretty impressive for a dance track back then. My dream re-mix? Wow, that’s tricky! I’d love to work with a Terry Hall vocal, so I’d have to say an electronic rework of The Specials, Friday Night, Saturday Morning. KS: Tell me about your pension plan, The Faraway Voices? DN: As you know, my son Harry is in The Faraway Voices and they’re good. I know I’m biased, but they’re all very talented kids. We had a drink with Liam Gallagher recently and he give him some advice and was very complimentary about his hair and shoes. It sent Harry’s confidence to the stars and his first gig in Liverpool Arts Club last week was amazing. Liam’s chat worked! He was a different kid up there, cocky and had the swagger! If he wants to keep at it and if it makes him happy, I’m behind him all the way. If he ends up being successful I want 20% because I’m his dad and I want a boat! KS: What are your all-time top five tunes? DN: Another tricky one! I’d have to say: 5. 4. 3. 2. 1.
A Day In The Life - The Beatles Wish You Were Here - Pink Floyd The Message - Grandmaster Flash Ashes To Ashes - David Bowie What’s Going On - Marvin Gaye.
The next Tribe event is on 31/3/15 at The Garage, Highbury featuring The Hacienda, Jersey Budd & The Broxton Hundred. Images © Dan Nolan
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Black Noire When Darron J Connett isn’t interviewing people for Up&Atom magazine, he dedicates his time to singing and song writing. As the last issue of Up&Atom magazine went to print, we heard that Darron had decided to leave The Last Of The Troubadours, so It’s only fitting then that we catch up with Darron to ask him about his new project, Black Noire. U&A: So, Darron, tell us about your new musical adventure, Black Noire? Darron J Connett: Black Noire is a new project featuring myself (obviously!), Daniel Smith who was a one-time bass player for my last band, The Last Of The Troubadours, and Emily Jackson, who is a classical composer really, I guess. She takes care of the strings, piano and all the other unique instruments we’ve incorporated into our sound. This is a very different sound from any of my previous guises, but then I hope I’ve always took the less obvious route. We’ve got lots of influences - Scott Walker, Kate Bush, to name a few, with heavy classical chamber pop type thing going on. I think it’s going to be hard to pigeon hole us and for me that’s the whole point. There’s far too many tribute bands out there, pretending to be ground breaking. Find your own sound or you may as well all go out and wear costumes. I’ve got to say though, this new EP, Tales Of The Unaffected, is the tip of the iceberg and I’d like to experiment further. There’s no big meaning behind the name Black Noire really, except it sounded better than ‘The Strap-ons’ and all those other generic band names! Plus I thought it was sophisticated and high brow, which is the total opposite of me, ha ha!
U&A: Where did you record the new tracks for Tales Of The Unaffected? How long has it taken to get them laid down? DJC: The EP was recorded in a bedroom in deepest South London, which I’ve christened ‘Shabby Road Studios’. Ha ha, Dan will love that! It was recorded in such a way that I was taken right out of any comfort zone I thought I had. It was a total new experience for me but at the end of the day, it’s the results that count, so hopefully people will love it and there will be more. We took it quite slow really as there was no hurry. I already had the song ideas. I like living with them for a while anyway, as they can evolve and take on a new guise. I love what Dan and Emily have done with them. They interpreted them perfectly. U&A: How does your new sound differ from your previous incarnations? DJC: This EP is very eclectic and as much as we used sounds unusual from the normal pop and rock realms, it still has a commercial element to it. The subject matter is universal; from loss, love, absent fathers to living with a prostitute who is about to leave you (not from experience! From an article I read). The first track most people will hear will be Make Mine A Double. It’s about loyalty and honesty from friends and people around you in general, who might not have your best interests at heart, or they’re in your life for the wrong reasons - and if I have a drink or two you might know about it! I’m quite a complex person really. I can go from Oscar Wilde to Danny Dyer in seconds, so who knows what I’ll come up with - but you better know it’s always the truth. If you listen to the lyrics, you’ll find the hidden meanings, as with most things I’ve written. Images © Black Noire, except for live image, © Indie Apparel Ltd
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U&A: What are your plans for the future? Any gigs coming up? DJC: The EP’s out on Delicious Junction records in Spring and two singles will proceed that. Hopefully we will be doing lots of live stuff but how we’re going to get the orchestra and mariachi trumpet players in I don’t know, but we will find a way! The tunes will be featured in a Delicious Junction promo vid and as always I’m happy to be involved with them, and as with all my things, I try for maximum success. It’s a shame we couldn’t get David McAlmont on it in the end. He did agree, but plans crumbled. That for me would have been the icing on the cake - he’s such a great singer! Next time! U&A: And to crow bar in a fashion angle, (coz that’s what we do!) can you tell us your perfect Spring/Summer outfit for 2015? DJC: Oh, I’ll be experimenting as usual in my limited array of modernist clobber! Driving loafers are always a part of my summer look. I love the La Scarpa from Delicious Junction or their Columbia. Maybe a pair of Levi’s 510s or 11 inches turn up with a nice Fred Perry polo or Brutus Trimfit Madras shirt. I’m keen on the Pretty Green kaftans too for the summer. Love what you do with your Madcap England range
- must say, I love that double breasted striped blazer, very Keef! So each day will be different. I’ll be the 21st century Mr Benn!
Look out for the new Black Noire EP, Tales Of The Unaffected out soon. In the meantime, listen to the latest tunes at: https://soundcloud.com/black-noire Or catch up with the band on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/pages/BlackNoire/335151870022599
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