Issue January/February 2015
Living the Dream: Family Buy Stunning, Abandoned Chateau
Uncorking Troyes Champa gne's Medieval Delight
GuĂŠdelon: amazing Modern Medieval chateau
Walking the bridges of Paris
Valentine's Day Special - three romantic weekends in France Three of the best Carnivals in France
Meet Our Contributors Jane Gifford is an award winning British author, photographer and journalist specialising in travel, garden, wildlife and environmental issues. She has written and been photographer for several books and her articles have appeared in numerous newspapers and magazines. janegifford.net
Liza Perrat grew up in Wollongong, Australia. She now lives in France with her French husband whom she met on a bus in Bangkok. She is the author of Spirit of Lost Angels and Wolfsangel and has won several awards for her short stories. Her articles about French culture and traditions have been published in many magazines. www.lizaperrat.com
Margo Lestz is American by birth but now divides her time between London, England and Nice, France. She says life in a foreign country is never dull and every day is a new learning experience. She’s curious by nature and always wondering who, what, why, when, where and how. She is the author of French Holidays and Traditions – Curious Histories. curiousrambler.com
Peter Jones is a writer and photographer. With a French mother and a Welsh father he brings a fresh insight to the world of travel writing. He lives in Oxfordshire, UK is a freelance writer and has a regular magazine column. He has lost count of the number of times he has visited France but has never forgotten meeting Bridget Bardot in a lift in Paris in 1968. www.jonesphotos.co,uk
Bob Lyons is an ex pilot turned roving travel writer. He divides his time between the UK and France where he loves to wander and make discoveries off the beaten track. He has travelled all over France and has a soft spot for the north and in particular St Omer which is the first French town he visited many years ago.
Karen Booth-Burns Karen Burns-Booth is a freelance food and travel writer, recipe developer and food stylist with a passion for local, seasonal ingredients. She has an award winning blog: and runs a seasonal cookery school in SW France. www.lavenderandlovage.com
WELCOME NEW YEAR NEW PLANS I'm really excited and happy about this issue of The Good Life France Magazine. it
has something for everyone who loves France. Medieval towns, festivals for Valentine’s Day, an amazing and unique snow artist in France (p54) and a tour of the bridges of Paris. We take a look at an extraordinary castle building project (p16), discover a strange friendship brotherhood (p50) and remember the old days of travelling to France (p22). If you want inspiration for Valentine's Day we have three great and very different suggestions including the fabulous violet festival of Toulouse (p58). We have some wonderful French recipes for you to try at home for Valentine’s Day and La Chandeleur (p78), a gastronomic pancake event in February. If you dream of living in France you’ll love our interview with a family who’ve made the move to France already. They bought a chateau in southwest France that they saw on the internet while in Australia (p34). They are restoring this abandoned and unloved castle to its former glory by hand – a very unusual and special DIY project. Despite the cold weather in France this is a great time to make new goals and plans and if that includes looking for a home in France then now is a great time to look and we tell you why (p72). In France it is normal to wish friends a Happy New Year throughout January and even in to February so I wish a very Bonne Année to you all and I hope you enjoy this issue…
Janine
Janine Marsh Editor Join us for daily features, travel news and more at www.thegoodlifefrance.com, Fac ebook, Twitter and Pinterest....
Contents: The Good Li
P34 Fairy Tale Chateau in France
P24 Walking the bridges of Paris
DISCOVER FRANCE 8 Troyes: Capital of the Aube Department, Champagne Explore the stunning, cork shaped medieval town that's bubbling with charm
16 Guedelon: A Modern Medieval Chateau A unique and extraordinary project to create an authentic, medieval chateau
22 The Golden Days of travel to France Peter Jones reminisces about travel from the UK to France 24 Paris: Wallking the Bridges of Paris A great way to get a feel for the city of light says Bob Lyons
32 One Hour from Paris Lamia Walker reveals how to take a great break just one hour from Paris, living life like a local and saving a bundle
50 Friendship, Brotherhood, Solidarity Liza Perrat discovers an historic and quirky brotherhood in France
58 Valentines Special: Toulouse, Boulogne-sur-Mer, Strasbourg Jane Gifford says banish the winter blues in Toulouse; a unique Valentine's night event in a French aquarium; Strasbourg's celebration of love
62 Three of the Best: Carnivals: Dunkerque, Menton, Nice
ife France Magazine
P58 Valentines Special
P46 Readers Photos: The Winners
LIVING IN FRANCE 34 Real Life Fairy tale Chateau story Moving to France doesn't have to be a dream say family who bought a chateau
54 There’s No Art Like Snow Art Simon Beck creates strange and wonderful art in the snowy mountains of Savoy
70 Relive history on the French Riviera: Expat sets up glamorous club on the French Riviera celebrating culture from the days of the Sun King to the Belle Epoque
FRENCH PROPERTY 72 My Dream Home: Why Searching for Property in the Winter is a good idea
CUISINE OF FRANCE 76 Cuisine: Coeur a la crème Get creative in the kitchen for Valentine's Day with this simple but impressive desert
78 La Chandeleur The tradition of pancake night in France and how to make a perfect French crêpe
OTHER 6 Events: What's on January to March 2015 46 Readers Photos: Winter in France Competition, the winners revealed
Top Events in France Janua
Nice Carnival P 67 The Sales – Les Soldes d’Hiver. The annual winter sales in France take place from 7 January to 17 February, the perfect excuse for a Gallic shopping excursion. Lots of bargains from the big stores to the small independents throughout the country with the price drops getting bigger towards the end. Definitely a chance to pick up a bargain. Angoulême, Poitou-Charentes - Festival International de la Bande Dessinée 29 January – 1 February. This homage to comics, much loved by the French, from Asterix to Tintin draws huge crowds of fans. There are competitions for amateurs and enthusiasts get to meet the professionals, watch them work and ask questions. www. bdangouleme.com Avignon – Horse Passion – 21-25 January. Horses are put through their paces with showjumping events, polo, dressage and carriage driving. www.cheval-passion.com Le Touquet – Pas de Calais, Enduropale 30 January – 1 February – Fast paced and wild bike racing on the beaches at Le Touquet, Stella and Merlimont. This is a fun packed weekend in which thousands of bikes and
hundreds of quad bikes are involved in a race circuit on the beach – noisy, and exciting. Over 150,000 people turn up each year to watch and cheer the racers on, and this year its even bigger with lots more additions to the circuit www.enduropaleduto uquet.fr Franche-Comté, Ski race, 8-9 February An epic cross country ski race with more than 3000 participants – both amateurs and Professionals including Olympic medallists on a 76km trek from Lamoura to Mourthe in the Jura Mountains. See the website for the Trans Organisation for more details and information www.transorganisation.com Granville – Normandy, Granville Mardi Gras, 13-17 February. Celebrated since 1872, this carnival began as a feast prepared by the wives of fishermen leaving to catch cod. These days its all about fun and having a good time – with parades, all night drinking, wearing masks and making friends as thousands arrive for this very popular five day event. www.ville-granville.fr
ary to March 2015
Nice, Nice Carnival 13 February – 1 March. Processions, flower parades and flower battles, rock, pop, fireworks and giant heads (les grosses têtes) and giants. Over a million people flock to Nice to join in the fun heralding the start of spring. www.nicecarn aval.com Dunkirk – Pas de Calais, Carnaval de Dunkerque, 15-17 February. Three days of street carnival and mayhem for The Trois Glorieuses at the Dunkirk Carnival – fabulous free street carnival, lots of bonhomie and entente-cordiale with dressing up de rigeur! www.villedunkerque.fr Menton – Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, Lemon Festival of Menton 14 February – 4 March. The fabulous and famous Menton lemon festival includes parades and immense structures built with thousands of lemons and oranges and one of the most popular festivals in the region attracting many thousands of visitors from all over the world. fete-du-citron.com Paris, Chinese New Year 15th February – join in the fun and celebrations in this beautiful city with a colourful parade through the Quartier Chinois stretching between the Place d’Italie and the Porte de Choisy in the 13th Arrondissement.
Sarlat: Perigord, Dordogne – Geese Festival Fest’Oie 16-17 February. This famous festival takes place in the picturesque town of Sarlat and celebrates all things goose! Noisy flocks of geese honking through the medieval city, tastings, workshops and demonstrations. www.sarlat-tourisme.com Alpes Maritimes, Mimosa Festival 15-24 February. In Mandelieu-La-Napoule the flowering of millions of sweet smelling Mimosa flowers known as “yellow suns” is honoured. An annual festival in which the locals celebrate protecting the precious blooms from bad weather for this flower which is used in the production of medicines. Parades and processions, singing and dancing, this event signals the coming of spring and the end to winter. ww w.ot-mandelieu.fr Nord-Pas de Calais – Le Touquet Car Rally, 13-14 March, crazy car rally through the countryside and along the coast of Pas de Calais,over 150 rally drivers converge on the lively seaside resort of Le Touquet for this one . www.letouquet.com Please note: We check every website for dates and details personally but changes do happen from time to time – please check website for confirmation.
UN, DEUX,
TROYES by Janine Marsh
Short Trip Destination from Paris Troyes in Champagne is just a short journey from Paris. If you’re in the city don’t miss out on the chance to see a different view of France that’s easy to reach…
Troyes is the former capital of
Champagne and is a perfect short trip visit from Paris. At just an hour and a half by train it can be a day trip but a couple of days and an overnight stay would be better because there’s so much to see and do in this lovely, vibrant city.
How can you not fall in love with a town in Champagne that is shaped like a Champagne cork? Troyes is an ancient city, once a Roman town with a direct road from Milan and onwards to Boulogne-surMer on the Opal Coast in the north of France – the route for the invasion of Britain. Later the rich and powerful Counts of Champagne built a palace in Troyes and it was a prosperous place that attracted merchants from all over Europe. The counts fortified their town and though at that time Champagne didn’t even exist, the walls took the form of a Champagne cork.
Following a huge fire in 1524 that destroyed many of the ancient buildings that were constructed from wood, new brick buildings were erected and many of them remain to this day. Indeed the inhabitants of Troyes lived in these buildings pretty much as they had been for hundreds of years right up until the 1950s. It was a decade when the town council went on a bit of a renovation rampage to improve
conditions since many of the old buildings had no bathrooms and poor hygiene conditions. Fortunately they didn’t destroy too much and visiting Troyes is like stepping back in time. Every street seems to have its quota of half-timbered houses and there are cobbled streets and tiny alleyways that create a mesmerising maze in the centre.
Everywhere you go here you’ll discover traces of history from hundreds of years ago, quaint, quirky and irresistibly charming. 12th Century poet Chrestien de Troyes, the father of the modern novel was born in Troyes; Henry V married Catherine of France in 1420 at the city’s Eglise St Jean au Marché and Pope Urbain IV was born there in 1185 and his remains are buried at the 13th Century Basilique Saint Urbain. King Louis X married in the town, and Anne of Bugundy married the son of Henry IV of England there – it was for a while the wedding spot of choice for the celebrities of yesteryear.
In the ruelle des Chats (Cats Alley) you’ll see it is so narrow that the houses lean in and touch at the top (photo P15). It got that name as cats would cross by jumping over the central gutter. At the side of the office of the Mutuelle Societe at 111 rue Emile Zola you can enter a gate and at the back you’ll discover a stunning renaissance house looking exactly as it did when it was built. At the Cour du Mortier d’or, the ancient timber frames still bear the workman’s trademarks.
They say that Troyes is a city of love and it certainly has a romantic past. The legendary story of Heloise and Abelard is remembered in their letters held at the Troyes library. A passionate affair between pupil and professor resulted in a child and a very upset uncle who had the unfortunate professor castrated for his sins. The young couple entered religious orders but their love remained and they stayed in touch by writing.
The famous rood screen of Sainte Madeleine Church with its remarkable stone lace design
Things to see and do Troyes is home to a unique collection of stained glass windows going back a thousand years, indeed Troyes is called the
"holy town of stained glass".
Here you’ll find one of the largest retail outlets in France, just outside the city. Savvy Parisians flock to shop in Troyes, and when the sales are on in January it is very popular indeed. Troyes was the French capital of hosiery in the 1800s and still a centre for production, known for its lingerie shops.
There are nine museums in Troyes includ over four centuries from the 1400's won’t ing the Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière, an unusual and charming museum dedicated to hand tools dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. Located in the rather unique Hotel de Mauroy there is an impressive collection of 20,000 tools ranging from the ornamental to the practical.
fail to impress. At the Sainte Madeleine Church is a little memorial garden in honour of the children buried there over the centuries. It was said that unbaptized children were buried against the ancient walls of the 12th Century church, when it rained, the water cascaded from the roof tiles onto the children and baptised them so that they would go to heaven.
The Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte houses a fabulous collection of pill boxes, medicine boxes and jars for lotions and potions in an apothecary that just as it did when it was Troyes is broken up into eight areas: created in the early 18th Century. Saint-Jean district or the Champagne Fairs district, Canal district, Arts district, Les Troyes is known as the”town of ten Halles district, Saint-Nizier district, the old churches” and is famous for its Jewish quarter, Cité district, Madeleine magnificent Cathedral of St Peter and St district. Paul. Its Gothic splendour, begun in the 12th Century remains unfinished, the tower of St Peter completed, the tower of St Paul Pick up a map from the tourist office, wear comfortable shoes and explore this lovely never started. It doesn’t matter, the 180 city. amazing stained glass windows, created
Take a break in Troyes The very popular Saint Jean
Quarter is chock full of lively restaurants and brasseries ranging from haute cuisine to homely fare. The andouillette de Troyes is much loved by locals who’ll tell you it is a delicious sausage – however, those with a bit of a squeamish outlook on food might like to know its made from tripe (offal). . There are some wonderful bakeries, patisseries, cheese shops and charcuteries and you’ll find a market every day of the week in the town (there are several different markets) as well as a lovely 19th Century Halles (indoor covered market).
As you’d expect, wine and Champagne figure high on the menu here and the town is surrounded by Champagne vineyards. As you sit sipping a glass of Champagne, contemplating the intoxicating and colourful charm of Troyes you’ll be glad you went there.
Accommodation: I stayed at the luxurious Hotel de Poste right in the historic centre of Troyes (double room from €141). Check out the Troyes tourism website for lots of ideas for places to stay to suit all budgets. One of the easiest ways to get to the heart of the Champagne region is by train. Fares from Paris to Troyes start from £29.50 per person standard class return uk.voyagessncf.com Troyes tourist office is the first “doggy tourism” office in France! Dog owners will be given a warm welcome and a useful information pack and dogs will be offered a welcome bowl of water!
Château de Guédelon A Modern Medieval Castle in
France
by Janine Marsh
A window to the past… In the small village of Guédelon in the départment of Yonne in Burgundy, between the towns of Saint-Sauveur-enPuisaye and Saint-Amand-en-Puisaye an extraordinary project is underway.
A medieval chateau is being constructed using old ways and methods – it is the biggest archeological project of its kind in the world and it is extraordinary.
You only have to look at the #SecretsoftheCas tle Twitter hashtag to discover how the amazing story has left people wanting to swap places with the three BBC stars and try stepping back in time for themselves. The Castle of Guédelon is a “follie”, the idea of local French chateau restorer and owner Michel Guyot. He and his brother Jacques have a passion for historic buildings and cut their teeth restoring an abandoned and almost derelict chateau with huge success. The work inspired in him a passion to learn more about building a castle from scratch. So where do you start when you want to build a 13th Century chateau just as it would have been done 800 years ago? I spoke to Sarah Preston from Bath, UK who worked as a guide at Guédelon and is now the press officer. “Materially” says Sarah “the first challenge was raising enough funds to get the project off the ground. Funding a suitable site was crucial, as well as finding the raw materials required in the construction. We were fortunate to find an abandoned quarry, which as well as having the largest deposit of sandstone in the area, was also surrounded by oak forests, and had rich supplies of sand and clay”.
Recently featured in a BBC series
called Secrets of the Castle, the Guédelon Castle endeavour has enthralled the British public as historian Ruth Goodman and archaeologists Peter Ginn and Tom Pinfold turned the clock back to join workers and volunteers on site to learn the skills of medieval castle builders.
From those humble beginnings in 1997 has grown a most magnificent undertaking. One that has seen a growing number of keen volunteers join the paid members of staff over the years. They are united by their passion for this huge adventure, the chance to learn about old technicques of building and living in way that’s never been tried before now.
“It will take our team at least 25 years to complete the castle"
“It will take our team at least 25 years to complete the castle. This is considerably longer than it would have taken in the early 13th century. We will easily take twice as long as our medieval counterparts because we don’t have the experience that they had – we have had to learn to quarry by hand, to make lime-mortar, to hoist loads; we’ll also take longer because we are open to the public and spend at least half of our time talking to visitors and explaining our work.” And learn they have. There are few if any rule books for medieval methods of construction. When you arrive at Guédelon you won’t hear the sound of machinery or power tools. You won’t see sacks of plaster and supplies from a builder’s merchant. Almost all materials are locally sourced, sand, stone, wood, as they would have been 800 years ago and are transported by horse and cart. Timber felled in the forest is hauled using horse and pole arch. Here almost everything is created from scratch – just as it would have been done in the 1200's. Blacksmiths make nails and hammers, carpenters build wooden structures from trees felled in the nearby woods, paint is created from powder found in the local soil and masons chisel out blocks that can take
weeks for a single slab. “We have to have a reference for every feature within the castle, every window, door, fireplace, tile or mural painting. We have a variety of different sources for these features: castle remains; the results of archaeological research; illustrations on manuscripts; stained glass windows. When it came to researching paving tiles we also made visits to the British Museum which has a fine selection of paving tiles from this period". On site, methods of construction are worked out by trial and error. “One of the project's principal raisons d'être is to demonstrate and explain to as many people as possible, the craftsmanship of our forebears” says Sarah. “Each new season brings new challenges but undoubtedly the building of the first cross-rib vault (below) was a turning point in our story. The question of how to raise the final roof timbers when the gable wall had already been built was also one we puzzled over. Equally learning to master the incredibly hard ferruginous sandstone which we find in the quarry was also a great challenge.
Another great challenge was learning to produce flour with the water mill which we have built in partnership with INRAP (French National Institute of Preventative Archaeological Research)”. The attention to detail, the willingness of the workers is incredible. When things don't work, everyone goes back to the drawing board to find a way to solve problems. Everything is as authentic as possible, including the clothes worn on site. “The costumes which we wear are loosely based on illustrations which we find on illuminated manuscripts. We are though mindful of the fact that the workers are 21st-century employees: their comfort and safety is paramount. They wear shirts and tunics but also safety shoes, protective gloves and hard hats where its necessary”.
The Walls are decorated with paint made from pigment dug from the local soil
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Sarah explains that the team at Guédelon created a fictional lord for the castle, Seigneur Guilbert, a low-ranking nobleman, of modest social and economic status. “We have had to learn the importance of matching the quality of finish on dressed stones to the social status of our fictional patron. Guédelon is not a royal castle and the lord would not have been able to afford to use ashlar blocks.
woodcutters; the tilers and their tile kiln; the dyers’ hut; the workshop where pigments are made for painting the walls of the castle; a forge, a rope-maker, a wood carver, a mason’s yard and a weaver. It is an astonishing, astounding achievement and it is solving many questions and puzzles about the buildings of the past. The Château de Guédelon is open to the public and after its TV appearance it’s going to get ever more popular.
"At the beginning of the project, we were giving the stones too good a Château de Guédelon finish; we had to study local castles and Want to get involved with building this understand the need to adapt our castle? Check the website for details of how to apply for the limited spaces. working practices”. Around the castle itself a little “village” has naturally grown. There are the
Applications may be made from January. onwards.
The Golden Days of Travel to France 1958 was a big year for the Jones
return within 24 hours - but in order to comply with rules, another Round Table family, it saw the arrival of our first television set and my father also bought meeting had to be attended during that his first car, a Hillman Hunter in burgundy period. Research showed the Table Ronde (83) Calais of the Table Ronde Francaise red. met at lunchtime that day. So, together with a printer called Stan Wyatt and That summer we all flew en famille across the channel from Lydd Airport in Kent to Le Touquet on the Opal Coast, northern France. We were accompanied by the car in a Bristol Super freighter of Silver City Airways. We drove on to La Loupe near Chartres where as an obnoxious 11 year old, I had a really boring holiday and spent the whole two weeks fishing for frogs in a local lake.
Peter Jones reminisces...
A very kind La Loupian told me the best bait for frogs was red wool, it worked brilliantly and the local restaurant soon had “Grenouille de la jeune homme Anglais” as a specialty on its menu. In the 1970s I was involved in the Round Table which was a huge raiser of monies for charity and a sponsored cycle ride from Oxford to Paris was the major event one year. However the rules dictated that it was to be nonstop which gave us a challenge when we reached the coast. Our ferry crossing was an early morning one and the ferry company left one of the car decks completely clear so we rode our bikes round and round on deck until we reached Calais (I doubt health and safety rules would allow that these days).
Geoff Wells the manager of Barclays Bank in my home town of Banbury in Oxford, we hot footed it to Dover arriving at dawn. Our luck was in big time as a national hot air balloon rally was taking place above the docks at Dover Castle. We hitched a lift and arrived after a very peaceful hop One of the traditions of Round Table was across the channel. themed “scatter nights”. This involved member’s names being drawn out of a Our French friends gave us a tremendous hat with two other members. and very boozy lunch in the yacht club, and after an exchange of banners and gifts we The three man team had 24 hours to get managed to return within the time frame as far away from their home town and allowed.
In the early eighties I was a building society manager and one of my clients successfully sold his business for several millions. As a thank you he invited me on a cruise. Not on some Ocean going liner but a 38 foot sailing yacht from Gosport on the south coast of England to Cherbourg on the Normandy coast. His boat was called “Slay Crab”, an anagram of Barclays which had originally funded his business. This was my first ever cross channel crossing on a yacht though I had some experience of dinghy sailing. I hadn’t at all realised how different it would be and my big mistake was my meal in the yacht club, lasagna and red wine. I would see these again later as they were not the best company for diesel fumes and a mid Channel swell. Sea sickness is instantly cured the minute you put your On August the 11th 1983 I was a witness in a Crown Court case in Brighton. The chairman of my company was a very keen aviator and had two light aircraft and he offered to fly me to the venue. En route we received a message to say the trial had been adjourned. “Never mind Mr Jones lets go and get some lunch, what do you fancy?” he asked. “Fresh Fish” was my reply. An hour later we were in the famous Perard restaurant in Le Touquet, still a great restaurant today. We tucked into a massive Assiette de Fruits de Mer washed down with a bottle or two of Montrachet, no passports, no francs and not a care in the world.
feet on dry Iand I discovered which meant we were able to enjoy a great night in the town of Cherbourg before a relatively easy sail home. I have to say, the sight of our skipper chomping on a whole camembert and swigging a bottle of red wine didn’t help a great deal. My most exciting crossing to date was in one of Her Majesty’s Submarines, s
adly that is all the Official Secrets Act will allow me to say…
Walking the Bridges of Paris...
Photo © Paris Tourist Office Photographer © Jair Lanes
Walking the Bridges of Paris is a fine way to get a feel for the city says Bob Lyons taking his own advice‌
More than twenty two years ago, I suffered the effects of a serious road accident.
Strangely, it occurred in France and I was taken by helicopter, in an unconscious state, to a hospital in France. They didn’t let me out for over a month. Afterwards, I returned to my house in England to recuperate. My leg was a big problem though and I had to prove to myself and my company that I could get my old fitness back so that I could return to my job as a pilot. I decided to walk over all the central bridges across the Seine in Paris, about thirty of them. That would show everybody I thought, and it did. I left my walking stick at home. Towards the end of 2014, I decided to repeat the experience and set off with my camera and travel kettle by bus from Victoria coach station in London and to the sparkling city of Paris.
I aimed to be a little less ambitious on this visit and cross just eighteen of the bridges starting in the east with the Pont de Bercy and proceeding north westwards towards the Pont d’Iena. Pont is the French word for bridge. The
many bridges spanning the Seine in central Paris seem to act as the cornerstones of Parisian history, culture, life and colour. They divide the city into recognizable sectors, all a little different, and all presenting subtle changes in City lifestyle, activity, energy and architecture.
The Pont de Bercy is just by the grand and futuristic national sports stadium. The bridge is a combined road and walkway and supports line 6 of the Metro. I took in the view and watched people heading into central Paris to start their day.
epitomises the energy of a thriving and ambitious capital economy.
I walked along the Quai Henry IV towards the Ile de la CitÊ, right in the centre of medieval Paris, and approached the Pont de Sully. This bridge links both banks of Walking along the left bank of the Seine I the Seine as it passes over the tip of the arrived at the recently designed Pont island. All of the traditionally perceived Charles de Gaulle. A single deck steel features of Paris can be seen from here. structure linking the Gare de Lyon with the The imposing Notre Dame Cathedral just Gare d’ Austerlitz. It is shaped like a to the north west, Place de Bastille to the streamlined aircraft wing and is a very crisp north east and the Arab Institute and feature presenting a modern France. Pantheon towards the south. I continued with my saunter and began to see the primary features of central Paris approaching. Stopping briefly at the Pont d’ Austerlitz, I could view Notre Dame Cathedral right ahead of me. The river Seine was very busy with traffic using it for various purposes including many large, speedy and sleek tourist vessels. Both banks of the river support many people on A view through 360 degrees from this foot going about their daily business or just point reveals all of the familiar architecture sitting to enjoy the view. The Seine of Paris.
Paris is a little like a shallow soup bowl with the river flowing at the bottom. I stood to observe the city rim all around me
Pont Neuf deserves a lingering visit and as I progressed towards it, I traversed five other bridges all passing over the island and all revealing vibrant commercial and tourist life in Paris. This really was the heart of the City as it lay protected under its wing of centuries old history and architecture. The Pont Neuf connects the tip of the Ile de la Cité with each bank of the Seine. It forms a crossing point between the Institute de France and the very commercial Forum des Halles retail centre. These places really do compliment each other. They symbolise the different character and style of the left and right banks of the river. Pont Neuf translates as New Bridge but it is, strangely, the oldest still standing river bridge in Paris. The present version was constructed in 1578 and King Henry 111 laid the first stone. If it has a stony consciousness, it would recall so much of Paris history from the past centuries. It was the site of the public execution of a certain Jacques de Molay in March 1314. He made the grave mistake of retracting his criminal confessions to prove his innocence. I continued along the left bank just beyond the tip of the Ile to take a look at the Pont des Arts. This is a foot bridge that certainly symbolises the romantic perception of Paris. Young and older couples alike have for decades been attaching padlocks to the bridge sides with their names painted on them. They throw the key into the Seine to confirm their eternal love for each other. The chain link fence along the edge of the bridge now is almost completely covered with such symbols to the point where part the bridge structure has partially collapsed under the weight. The Paris authorities have had to forbid
this practice to save the bridge. I crossed again to the right bank and headed towards the Pont de la Concorde, photographing three other bridges along the way. The magnificent Musée de Louvre and the Tuileries were to my right; the rather less royal Musée de Orsay and the Assemblée Nationale (French Parliament) were on my left, on the edge of the other bank.
I continued my stroll towards the Pont Alexandra III. It is a very elegant bridge that is regarded by many as the most ornate in Paris. Built at the beginning of the twentieth century to mark the conclusion of the Franco Russian alliance in 1892. It is named after the Tsar who was instrumental in achieving the agreement. The bridge was a marvel of engineering construction at the time. It supports four massive gilt-bronze statues that overlook all life going on beneath them. The view across the bridge towards the Hotel des Invalides from the right bank is iconic. It stands for everything that has made the Paris City centre so very photogenic. I turned west towards the Eiffel Tower crossing two bridges along the way, the Invalides and the de la Alma. Paris was taking on a more serious tone. The character now was one of affluence, commerce and serious economic affairs. My target was the Pont d’Iena leading to the vast steel base of the tower itself. I stood for a few moments at the end of the bridge on the right bank close to the French national broadcasting headquarters.
The Pont de la Concorde was constructed during the turmoil of the French Revolution. It is incredible to think that part of it is built with stones taken from the liberated Bastille prison. That occurred on the 14 July, 1789. The view from this bridge towards the Champs Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe is spectacular. It is Napoleon’s adopted part of Paris in a sense.
The sheer scale and imposition of the Eiffel Tower from this position is almost intimidating. It was a very grand conclusion to my tour of the Seine bridges. I crossed over, stood under the base of the tower and looked up. The sight of the heavy engineering, precision and architectural skills was breath taking.
Second-hand bookseller ŠParis Tourist Office Photographer Jacques Lebar
Walking the bridges of Paris There are no hills to walk up and no bills to pay. The views from the centre of the whole city are sensational and you can almost smell the Gallic culture as all of it passes by. Any ordinarily fit person can easily clamber across all of the bridges in just a few hours though stopping and enjoying the sights will add to your time on this journey. Hire a bicycle from points in the streets if you prefer to conduct your trip on two wheels. Pay the very modest charge with your credit card at the machines by the cycle racks. Be careful on the roads though, the Parisian motorists are renowned for their driving skills but sadly, not for their manners. In summer months, Parisian authorities bring the seaside to Paris. Sections of the Seine embankments are converted into beaches using vast amounts of sand. You can watch people with their children enjoying life as though they were at the coast.
Pont Alexandre III The bridge (right) has four granite columns, two on each side of the river, atop them are gilded statues of the Fames. On the Right Bank you’ll see the Fame of Science and Fame of Arts. Beneath them are sculptures of Contemporary France and Charlemagne. On the the Left Bank, are the Fames of Commerce and Industry. Underneath are statues of Louis XIV and Renaissance France. Lion statues adorn the ends of the bridge, on the Right Bank they were designed by George Gardet and on the Left Bank are by Jules Dalou.
Pont Alexandre III photo by Irena Uzerina
Pont d'Iéna This bridge wich leads to the Eiffel Tower coming from Trocadéro, was built between 1808 and 1814 on the oders of the Emperor Napoleon. It was named after the German city of Jena (Iéna in French) where Napoléon had defeated the Prussian army in 1806. There are five arches and it has been redecorated several times according to the ruler of the day., with the imperial eagles neing replaced by the royal letter "L". The current statues were added in 1853. In 1937 the bridge was widened to 35m (115ft). to take account of the expected high volume of traffic for the World Fair and at that point the imperial eagles were returned. It leads almost to the base of Eiffel Tower.
One Hour From Paris... Ever dreamt of having the city of light at your fingertips without having to pay the excruciating prices for accommodation? Visiting Europe’s capital cities, especially Paris, can deliver the trip of a lifetime. Many of us are stunned to the core by the beautiful buildings, the atmospheric streets but also by the charges imposed by hotels. One way to reduce these costs is to stay near the city. An even better way is to housesit for someone just outside thus securing completely free accommodation! Some people make life changing dramatic gestures to find ways to experience this beautiful beguiling city. Famous authors and painters throughout history have recorded their evolution as artists, while enjoying the city as Ernest Hemingway said: © Paris Tourist Office David Lefranc
‘If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.’
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France for 17 years, always choosing convenient locations within easy reach of the capital. She currently lives in Seine et Marne and says: ‘I love living in the French countryside, fresh air and greenery (away from the maddening crowd) but can also take advantage of One English woman, who makes her what Paris offers. It's an hour’s journey home available for housesitters when she by car and I can be at Paris Gare de L'Est herself goes on holiday, found her ideal by train in 50 minutes (without wrestling location in the French countryside one traffic, parking fees or negotiating the hour from the capital. Susan has lived in "péripherique")’. ouldn’t it be ideal to find a place to live within striking distance, and yet removed enough to enjoy a quieter life on the whole? This way you can have the best of both worlds.
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Susan lives in Coulommiers, a rural town which is thriving thanks to its location 20 minutes from Disneyland, yet manages to retain its rural character including a farmers market twice a week selling local produce. In describing the features of the town, Susan highlights some attractive features of the area. "There is "La Commanderie des Templiers" which dates back to the 12th Century, with a spectacular structure, a commanding courtyard and pigeon loft. It boasts a garden that grows plants cultivated for medicinal purposes in medieval days. One of the most fascinating buildings is the bibliothèque (library) which was built in the town centre in 1860, it served as a women’s prison and has been beautifully restored. The town also has a spacious park "de Capucins" with excellent sporting facilities. There is the "garnished" section of the park where newly married couples congregate in the summer for wedding photos. It also boasts a charming old chapel, recently renovated and re-opened as a museum. A canal runs through the town centre and in summer you can hire kayaks to get a ducks view of the town. Talking of ducks, they are in abundance in the park. Restaurants worth a visit include "Atmosphere", although the portions wouldn't keep a big appetite satisfied it offers authentic dishes and is wellpresented. The open terrace with a view of the canal makes it a popular location in summer. For authentic local produce I favour a farm at Lumigny-Nesles that sells a variety of artisanal produce from the area. It's also a good day out as you can pick your own vegetables and fruit." When asked about her experience of Paris and favourite haunts, Susan offered these recommendations: ‘When I go to Paris it's normally for a set reason - an
Susan with her beloved dogs at home in France
friends and family to "see" Paris. I can quite openly boast of having been up and down the Eiffel Tower 7 times, a feat that many Parisians have rarely undertaken once, it being kind of taken for granted. One of my favourite eateries in Paris (for originality) is "Les Ancètres des Gaulois" which can be found in the heart of Isle Saint Louis and offers a complete menu for 40€ per person. The best view of Paris in my opinion is from the Sacre Coeur, especially when the sun is setting. Unfortunately many others think the same, and in the summer time you have difficulty finding a seat on the steps or even wending your way through the bodies to the top.’ Visiting Europe’s capital cities, especially Paris, can prove to be the trip of a lifetime blighted only by the charges imposed by small and large hotels alike. So how about housesitting only an hour from Paris? View Susan’s Housesit By Lamia Walker Founder – HouseSitMatch.com The online network for home owners and housesitters.
Real Life FairyTale
Chateau story
Chateau Le Mung How many of us dream of owning a
chateau in France? Long to take on a glorious French renovation project and turn a run-down property into something special… yearn to bring a special place back to life and be a part of its history. For most of us, of course it is just a fantasy but for one determined family that dream has come true. Though they have a tremendous amount of work ahead of them to turn an abandoned chateau into a habitable home the journey has begun… Have you ever found yourself browsing on the internet, looking at gorgeous chateaux in France and thinking “I wish I could live there”? That’s what happened to Gerald Bromley. Originally from the UK, living in Australia via Holland and Europe, Gerald and wife Sheryl were wondering what their next move was going to be. They knew they wanted to return to Europe, Australia being too far from family and friends in the UK and they knew they liked France. “Look at this awesome abandoned chateau in France” said Gerald to Sheryl and, like a million wives around the world, she said “Yes dear, it’s lovely” thinking she would conduct a sensible search later.
by Janine Marsh
Sheryl couldn’t get the image of the haunting beauty of this unloved, uncared for and deserted When the couple’s daughter Sarah-Jane castle out of her mind. She secretly viewed the arrived at the house with her husband pictures online and started to daydream and Scott and two young children, Gerald showed them the Chateau too. Sarah-Jane wonder if it could actually, really, possibly happen. says she agreed with her Dad, it was gorgeous but told him “we could never Sheryl says “I thought that when we returned to afford it”. Europe, the children would stay behind, it wasn’t something I wanted to happen but I just couldn’t And that was that. see how we could all move en masse and get Except it wasn’t. jobs, find homes”.
H m i
W J o e d f F l
A dream come true...
Sheryl admits that she had already fallen in love with Chateau le Mung from the photos. When she and Gerald drove towards the grand gates of the sweeping drive way and saw the 800 year old castle looming in the mist she was overwhelmed by its beauty.
“It was elegant, ancient, romantic… it took my breath away” The couple pulled up in their hire car at the huge and imposing doors of the Chateau, so dazzled by its age and splendour that they hardly noticed the broken windows and acres of overgrown land. It was March 2014, the spring air was clear and sweet and full of anticipation and promise. They opened the door and entered… and then says Sheryl with a wry laugh “we woke up”. This sleeping beauty of a palace had been empty and unloved for several decades. No one except bats and birds and wild animals had entered its rooms for years.
“It was” confesses Sheryl “like a slap in the face. Filthy beyond belief, wrecked by Her Eureka moment involved the whole family moving to the Chateau, renovating it and turning years of neglect, damaged beyond anything we had ever imagined. My heart it into a magnificent hotel. dropped and I just wanted to walk out, drive to the airport and go back to When she suggested it to her son, 21 year old Australia right there and then”. Jacob, Sarah-Jane 27 and her family and her other daughter 25 Year old Naomi, they all The couple walked from room to room, embraced the idea whole-heartedly. A family into the age-old towers of the castle, discussion resulted in Gerald and Sheryl flying around its thick stone walls and looked at from Sydney to view the Chateau in southwest France to make sure they knew what they were the 20 acres of overgrown, impenetrable parkland. letting themselves in for.
Somehow, despite all of the drawbacks, the massive problems that they realised they would face, the Chateau ensnared them. They knew that if it could be restored it would be incredible and with five cottages on the land, originally built for servants, there was sufficient living space for the whole family. There was certainly plenty of work to go round. Gerald is a specialist plasterer who had worked on important buildings around the world, a master craftsman with a strong work ethic. Sheryl is no different. A trained chef, she had just completed a four year
long Masters course in plastering, the only woman amongst 160 men, and to say that she is a determined lady is an understatement. The specialist experience that the pair had, enabled them to envision the deserted rooms as they could look. They could “see” grand cornices on the ceilings and authentic style fancy plasterwork. The original tiled floors that were still there could be cleaned and restored. There was enormous amount of work and it would not be easy “But, we knew could do it and by then we had fallen in love with the place”.
So they returned to Australia with photos and videos and talked over the pros and cons “there was only one discussion, we all felt the same passion about the Chateau.”
Cinderella Chateau In August 2014, Sheryl, Gerald, son Jacob, daughters Naomi and Sarah-Jane, and Scott their son-in-law and grandchildren two year old Cecily and one year old Harry flew to France to start a new life. Their first job was to plan the restoration. They are doing everything themselves, from building a swimming pool to fitting windows, plumbing, roofing, tiling, re-wiring and of course plastering. It is hard work, some days when everything goes wrong and there is a mountain of paperwork to complete, it’s not easy to stay positive.
But “every time I walk down the path towards the Chateau, it makes my heart beat faster. There is something wonderfully romantic about this place” says SarahJane. The sense of responsibility, the deep love they have for this enormous project keeps the family going and absolutely determined to see it through. Sarah-Jane confesses “we hardly ever take time off. We keep to the plan and if that means we work seven days a week then that’s what we do. We have to keep an eye on the bigger picture”.
And the big picture is astounding. The family intend to restore this chateau to its former glory. When they moved in they invited the local mayor to come and see what they wanted to do “he pretty much had tears in his eyes” says Sheryl. The Mayor and the locals are thrilled that “their”
The oldest part of the Chateau dates accessories and Sheryl knows exactly the colours she wants to introduce to give back to 1301 and it was an important building on its prime spot along the Charente River. The family take great care in ensuring that any original parts of the building are retained and lovingly repaired. Their vision for the future will see this once deserted Chateau open as a 16 bedroom hotel which will have been gloriously restored with an authentic, historic look and feel. Any spare time the family have is spent searching for old furniture and
this castle the fabulous make-over it so deserves.
Already as you enter and see the fabulous central winding staircase, tiled floor and grand windows, it is easy to tell that this building, that is simply breathtaking with its faded grandeur, will be a very special, remarkable place. With Gerald and Sheryl’s know-how and skills, the family’s energy and passion for the project, the Chateau is slowly being brought back to life.
A frosty morning at the chateau and a visitor in the garden The worst job everyone agrees was clearing twenty years’ worth of brambles from the twenty acres of land. Sarah-Jane speaks for everyone though when she says “every minute of the hard work is worth it. We’ve uncovered gates, wells, water towers, an old laundry, secret paths, ancient graffiti on the walls… every day is a discovery and a joy”. Sheryl loves the “clear skies full of bright stars, the clean unpolluted air, and the sheer beauty of the surrounding countryside”. Her plans include a small
golf course, paths through forested glades where guests can picnic and enjoy a completely relaxing break. Although the hotel “will have all mod cons” she says, the look will be firmly of the past. “Our dream is to restore it to its former glory and for people to love it as much as we do, to give people a place to stay that is not only a bed, but an experience”. With such a determined and pragmatic family, there is no doubt that this is one dream that will come true. Follow the Bromley family’s dream via their Facebook page.
The family have made many discoveries of historic items like this ancient cart
Family fun time at the Chateau
One of the grand rooms in a state of renovation
What is a chateau? Well it’s not the simple answer you might think as there are different types and styles of chateaux in France. The literal translation is of course castle. However, you’ll find that grand mansions may also be called chateau. From Versailles to the Chateau le Mung, even a relatively plan but large country house, or a grand house in a vineyard – they say that an Englishman’s home is his castle and it seems that France is no different.
The town of Le Mung
The ancient stables
Readers Photos Winter in France Competition
We know from our Facebook page that you all love photos of France so we thought we’d hold a winter in France Photo contest. What an amazing response we got and some truly stunning photographs were submitted making it very hard for the judges to pick those that went through to voting. We asked you, our readers and Facebook friends to vote for the photo you liked best and there were three images that really stood out for everyone. Congratulations and first prize (a book of wonderful drawings of France by artist Perry Taylor) goes to Janette Lee from Paris for her stunning photo of Chateau Vaux le Vicomte, Christmas 2014 (2,321 votes)
Second Place (above) with a truly gorgeous photograph of Kayserberg in Alsace was Lori Prosser from the USA (2,216 votes)
Third place (bottom right) went to Sam and Graham Weller from Normandy for a magical image of Normandy in winter (2,148 votes)
Runner up (left) Tracey and John, from France with a beautiful picture of Lescun, Pyrenees
Runner up (top right) Mary Douche from France with a photo of her garden in winter.
Readers Photos Winter in France Competition
FRIENDSHIP, BROTHERHOOD, SOLI DARITY! by Liza Perrat I blinked into the early sun, at the stranger
man said, sipping his coffee. “Two friends standing on my doorstep. A pointed, green decided to celebrate their 20th birthdays hat with a precarious feather flattened his wearing tails and opera hats. They were returning from the drawing of lots, a thinning hair. Clutching a bag of French pastries, his nostrils quivered longingly at system of chance used to select army recruits and were such a hit that, in my brewing coffee. Defying the rule that says you don’t let strange men wearing elf following years other conscripts imitated their attire. Gradually they were joined by hats into your home, I invited him in for a men of all the other decades and cup. sometimes even the 100-year-olds wobbled along with the crowd.” “Would madam like to buy a brioche? I set a steaming mug in front of him and asked why he was selling brioches. “Raising money for the fête des classes (class party),” he said. Wondering what a class party was, I raised my eyebrows, prompting him to recount the tale of this curious French tradition associated with conscription. “It started around 1850, in Villefranche–Sur-Saône, I believe,” the
“The custom spread faster than a battle cry,” continued the stranger, smiling at me as I refilled his cup. “On whichever bleak January morning the drawing was held, drum rolls, whistles, bugles, songs of questionable harmony and - later, car horns tooting and vehicles backfiring pierced the foggy air. Whether they were picked for service or not, the jubilant young men would return to the town centre, acting the goat and yelling out to
girls. So, you see, that’s how the conscript’s celebration, or class party, was born.” Mr. Pixie-hat told me that this event became so important in the lives of young Frenchmen, that the city of Villefrance–Sur–Saône, north of Lyon on the highway to Paris, established the Musée De La Conscription (conscription museum), opened in January, 2000. My curiosity piqued by now, I drove the 20 kilometers from my rural village to Villefranche and plunged into the origins of conscription and class parties via photos, films, songs and slogans. “Most of these documents and pictures were provided by families from around here,” the curator proudly informed me.
While some men rejoiced at the opportunity to serve La Belle France, others resorted to mysticism to avoid the bloodbath of war. His life dependent on a lottery, the conscript was obsessed with drawing a lucky number. So developed the practice of magic, incantations, pilgrimages and talismans.
In the Beaujolais region, the conscript had to attend Mass for three Fridays before the drawing of lots. This same day, between 11 p.m. and midnight, he visited the cemetery to plead his cause to the dead. Finally, on the day of lots drawing, he wore a snake skin under his jacket lining. The spirits appeased, he was sure of drawing a lucky number.
Failing sorcery, there was another option. In 1802, a conscript not wishing to place Since its origin, military service has been his life in the hands of the battlefield Gods considered a citizen’s fundamental debt. could buy a replacement. Rich families In 1688 Louis XIV saw the majority of would hire a substitute at the cost of four Europe united against France and the years’ salary. What a temptation for a poor system of ‘voluntary’ recruitment began. farmer! Seedy, intermediary companies Abuses and complaints led to a royal flourished and a veritable human traffic decree instituting a system of lot drawing developed. In 1825, attempting to eradicate in 1692: a white note exempted a man from this trade, the law permitted exemption service, a black one signified enlistment. from service by payment of a sum to the This system would be abolished and army. reintroduced several times during the 18th century until it remained intact for a Further irony to the enlistment debate was hundred years from 1805 to 1905. the Conseil de Révision , or Review Council. If a man chose a lucky, or But why celebrate an event so depending on personal opinion, unlucky number, this council was the next stage in linked with doom? army selection. It reviewed a recruit’s aptitude to carry arms. Socio-professional, “Friendship, brotherhood, solidarity!” anthropological and cultural features were exclaimed the museum curator, leading me into the room specially reserved for the scrupulously noted in a register. preservation of this tradition. To the casual Conscription at twenty years became progressively synonymous with sexual observer this might seem rather a pompous motto for a group of fellows who relations and marriage, more so than the capacity to carry arms. ‘Good For The simply want to celebrate together. However, these men are united not only by Service’ meant ‘Good For Marriage’. year of birth, but by extreme bonds of friendship and loyalty.
After the drawing of lots, the ‘lucky’ ones would dash off to buy rosettes to frame their triumphant number on their hat, with coloured ribbons. Green, emblem of hope, and signature colour of Villefranche–SurSaône, was the favoured hue. The rejects, humiliated and ostracized, bore black ribbons, colour of grief and sadness. J.M. Simon’s fate is recorded in the Villefranche–Sur-Saône museum in his own words: “I was a conscript for the class of 1891. I drew number 27, an unlucky number. Twenty five of us lined up for the review council. One comrade who had limped from birth and another poor worker with tuberculosis were immediately exonerated. My chest cage measured 97cm (36 inches), and requirements stated 98 cm so I too, was rejected. We were scorned and despised by our peers, dishonoured and excluded from festivities.” Villefranche–Sur–Saône classes, exclusively for men, celebrate on the last weekend in January. Conscripts visit the sick and handicapped on the Friday, deriving a small lesson in humility from this brief instant given to other humans. Concepts of companionship in life and impending death and promises of loyalty to their classe are fortified and renewed.
accompanied by artillery of trumpets, trombones and flutes and ranks of cheering family and friends. Shiny, vintage cars swathed in flowers wear gigantic opera hats resembling steamboat funnels. The elderly are resplendent in stately, horse-drawn carriages and laughter and shouting dispel the winter gloom as the squadron regroups at the end of the main street for the feast. Brotherhood Festivities
The festivities continue on Saturday, with Villefranche–Sur-Saône is unique for its style, organization and duration but other regions – the supreme celebration on Sunday. In Rhône, Ain, Isère, Vendée and Alsace – claim lines of six, or fewer as the older their share of the gateau, with festivities classes join ancestors in the varying from village to village.
cemetery, arms linked, the cavalry zig-zags down the Rue Nationale, arms linked, in a wave sequence.
A committee of about 10 people from the same classe, or birth year, is formed to prepare throughout the year. “We raise money selling brioches, holding bridge and tarot card All are slickly coifed, armoured in tails, competitions, bingo and pétanque games,” a pristine shirts, black bow ties and opera hats streaming different coloured ribbons member explained. Meetings are held to decide on the costume. “We spend the money for each year. Armed with bouquets of on a trip, a meal in a restaurant or a visit yellow mimosas they bellow out somewhere”. traditional lyrics, defying false notes,
Twenty-year-olds danced on tables, brandishing bottles as microphones, 70-year-olds nodded off with contented sighs and small children dashed about, intoxicated on atmosphere.
Reminiscent of the equinoctial tide, the procession was named La Vague’ (The Wave). “Sunday is party day,” another devotee recounted enthusiastically. A parade through the village then a party, with hats sporting ribbons, a feather or whatever else won the vote. Then a morning mass and the alcohol starts a steady flow with an aperitif at the town hall. The ‘conscript’ – any 20-year-old man, now, for France no longer practices involuntary recruitment, and his family, then troop off for a gastronomic lunch that defies all conservative boundaries of the midday meal. Mr. Elf hat told me about his last class party in our village: “The entree was mousse de foie gras en brioche (goose liver in a pastry case) and crayfish. Oh, and of course, white wine - Monbazillac. You know? Très syrupy. ” Then the mighty appetites attacked the plat de résistance - canard aux cèpes, perfectly accompanied by a smoky Bordeaux. Cheese varieties ranging from pungent, almost liquid St. Marcellin to crumbly goat’s Crottin de Chavignol, just to finish off the wine.
For those sober or awake enough to remain on the battlefield, steaming coffee was served while the champagne cooled for the Bal des Conscrits, ball held by some villages around 11pm Sunday evening to counterattack the banality of Monday. Finally, as daybreak hesitated between night and dawn, the weary soldiers tottered off home. These festivities no longer mark the final celebration before departing for the uncertainty of war, yet the bonds of brotherhood are reinforced annually, uniting classes that, for a brief moment, know no racial, class or social boundaries. A need to fulfil a citizen’s primary obligation that has ceased to exist, or just a good excuse for French gastronomy? Who knows, but as the stranger with the funny hat thanked me for the coffee and conversation. I wished him a grand celebration and he departed, pocketing my Euros in exchange for two brioches.
There's No High in the mountainous area of Savoie in France, strange apparitions, not unlike crop circles, have appeared in the snow in the last few years.
Some people buy a home in the mountains of France to ski, some for the fresh air and tranquillity, the beauty of the landscape. Simon Beck found an entirely different and completely unique reason to live there. He is a snow artist. When monumental snow flake patterns appear as if by magic overnight, the locals don’t speculate about UFOs or aliens – they know it is resident snow artist Simon. He owns a flat in the ski resort of Les Arcs and spends most of the winter there. 11 years ago, in a bid to get fitter Simon started to walk in the mountains and had an idea to start sketching pictures – he drew a simple star shape. But, for orienteering map maker Simon it didn’t stop there. The modest star developed into a complex pattern and over the years Simon has created ever more complicated pictures in the snow and they've made him famous.
Some of the patterns are enormous covering thousands of square metres. Most though, are around 100 m² and the average snow drawing takes ten hours, all conducted in freezing weather conditions on fresh snow which Simon says drily “isn’t fun”. With a head torch he works into the night to complete an artwork, then takes a photograph and saves it to his hugely popular Facebook page. Hundreds of thousands have followed his progress, enamoured of the breath-taking beauty of a giant snowflake or “Mandelbrot set, Koch curve and Sierpinski triangle”. Inspiration comes from mathematical patters and geometry, Japanese gardens, even “grumpy cat”. This is art at its most fragile, literally disappearing overnight at times, covered by fresh snow or simply melting away. The last few years have been difficult as the weather has not been kind to snow artists in the alps and Simon has travelled outside of France to carry on creating. He has also dabbled in sand art, creating patterns on the beach.
Art like Snow Art by janine Marsh
The patterns are not created with tools Simon does it all by… foot. He walks the patterns into the snow wearing raquettes (snow shoes). Spending hours alone, trudging out the patterns is physically and mentally demanding. Using his mapmaking skills Simon draws the patterns and them maps them using a compass, tape measure and string. “What I would really like would be a means of projecting a spot onto the snow so I could simply create drawings by following it and not have to do any surveying” Simon says.
Simon photographs his work and posts the photos on Facebook where he has a large and fast growing group of fans and admirers. Taken from above and in certain lights there is a mystical and breath-taking quality to the sight of the sophisticated and elaborate snow art displays. It is incredible to think that a lone artist walking miles alone in the snow with just a compass and a design on paper can create such beautiful and enormous images. Even more inctedible is that when snow falls the patterns will be covered and lost from sight. Simon says that his neighbours in Les Arcs at first thought him “a bit mad� but these days his snow art is creating huge publicity for the resort as his fame has grown and he has become a local celebrity.
See more snow art on Simon's Facebook page. Simon Beck has also written a book called Snow Art
Three Romantic W
February is officially Violet Month in Toulouse and it’s a great time to visit
Valentine’s Day treat says Jane Gifford La Fête de la Violette day except Monday but on this particular
for a
Toulouse is most famous for its own
weekend, it is devoted to violets. There are scented goodies and potted plants for species of scented violet. Once many sale. You can sample free candies, violet small family concerns grew Toulouse macaroons and delicious breads stuffed Violets on land to the north of the city. with crystallised flowers. At the display of Tied by red string into highly fragrant violets from around the world, they give balls, they were sold by young girls on the away free baby violets to all visitors. city streets of Europe. The Victorians Violet cocktails and liqueurs by Benoit were crazy for them. Over 600,000 Serres (a family business since 1841) are posies were sent every year to northern on offer. And, if it all gets too much, free markets - Paris, London, Russia, even as head and hand massages with violet and far afield as Canada. Then fashions pastel lotions are available. L’Académie changed and the craze for violets faded du Pastel are demonstrate woad-dyeing, and today the violet business has children paint at easels, while an elegant undergone an imaginative lady in a long green robe with a quilted transformation. violet-petal stole and a violet straw-boater judges the stalls. The Fête de la Violette takes place on the first weekend of February on Place du This all takes place in front of the wide Capitole, the impressive centre-piece of pink sweep of the Capitolium. With grand Toulouse. There is a market here every
Weekends in France for Valentine's Day
Below deck, shelves are straining under violet conserves,
colonnades and statues above and horizontal stripes of red and white below, this has been the town’s administrative centre since 1190. The building has been embellished over the centuries to become a vast edifice housing an enormous theatre, the town hall, the Tourist Information Centre, the Registry Office and much else besides.
Madame Christine Calas, Grand Master of the Violet Brotherhood (la Confrérie de la Violette).
Seek out La Maison de la Violette on the east side of town on the Canal du Midi. Hélène Vié’s violet and green houseboat is the fruit of 20 years’ work reviving the fortunes of the Toulouse Violet. On the top deck violets are grown for sale during the flowering season from October to April. Below deck, shelves are straining under violet conserves, mustards, salts, sugars, honeys and liqueurs, as well as perfume, incense and scented candles. Try a violet cream tea. Delicate little pastries melt into creamy fragrance, served with a large pot of – you guessed it - violet tea. http://www.toulouse-visit.com/
Unique Valentine's Night Event in France
A Valentine’s Day event with a real difference as Nausicaa, one of the largest aquariums in Europe celebrates in a special, magical “mer veilleuse” evening (mer is French for sea). I went to the Christmas “mer veilleuse” evening and I’m definitely hooked. There is something very special about almost having this place to yourself, seeing the fish in their huge tanks, two enormous touch pools, giant tortoises, cayman, sealions, penguins and 36,000 more animals. It knocks spots off of any other aquarium I’ve been to and the champagne and canapés, served in a soft light by the huge glass windows of the tropical lagoon makes it a very unique and very special night. Starting at 6.30 pm, couples will be able to spend a unique few hours in a convivial, romantic atmosphere. Sip a glass of champagne and enjoy freshly prepared canapés as you experience the wonderful diversity of multi-coloured species in the lagoon and have a face-to-face encounter with sharks – fin-tastic .
There will be fun events and soft music and everything will be arranged to ensure that the Valentine’s Day “Mer Veilleuse” evening is unforgettable. To prolong the magic of the evening, there will be serving a gourmet dinner prepared by awardwinning chef, Tony Lestienne in the heart of the tropical lagoon. A tête-à-tête, violins, champagne and an elegant fine dining experience are all on the menu. An exceptional event in an unusual location for a few, privileged couples and while it might be cold outside you’re assured of a warm ambience at Nausicaa on Valentine’s Night: Saturday 14 February 18.30 onwards: Evening with tasting and champagne: €29/person; Evening with tasting and champagne followed by a gourmet dinner serenaded by violins: €160/person Advanced booking required Phone: +33 (0) 321 309 989 Nausicaa is approximately 30 minutes drive from Calais. Details:Nausicaa website
Celebrating l’Amour in Strasbourg
Photo courtesy Office of Tourism Strasbourg, Philippe de Rexel
In Strasbourg, Alsace, love is well and truly celebrated in February with ten days of events dedicated to l’amour. Original, glamorous, unique and quirky, the whole city embraces the idea of love. With its extraordinary UNESCO classified heritage, gorgeous half-timbered houses, picturesque alleyways and small squares, its canals and bridges - Strasbourg is undoubtedly one of the most romantic cities in France. Throughout the ages, Strasbourg has attracted countless visitors and has been the backdrop to the romances of several famous people, including Victor Hugo and his mistress Juliette Drouet, Honoré de Balzac and Eve Hanska, Goethe and Frédérique Brion… For the third year in a row, the European capital will celebrate lovers with a programme that is simultaneously poetic, cultural, glamorous, and slightly quirky! Among the highlights of the ten-day event: festive, delightfully retro evenings; gourmet tête-à-tête dinners; ephemeral installations under the stars; exclusive concerts; unusual visits; unexpected encounters… and many surprises! Romance, attraction and something unique. For a Valentine’s Day like none other, don’t miss “Strasbourg Mon Amour”! Website for details: www.otstrasbourg.fr
Three of the Best.... Carnivals in France
Dunkirk Carnival, Nord-Pas de Calais
Dunkerque Carnival - the Spring carnivals in France
Most of us associate carnivals in
France with spring, sunshine and the south but carnivals take place all over the country and one of our favourites is in the north where it’s just as likely to be snowing and most certainly cold…
Carnival de Paris, Sunday 15th February A parade winds its way across Paris from Place Gambetta to the Hôtel de Ville. The cow at the head of the procession evokes the Promenade du Bœuf-Gras, the other name for the Paris Carnival in days gone by.
Carnaval de Dunkerque - no
e noisiest in France With a reputation for being the most fun and the noisiest carnival in Europe, the Carnival de Dunkerque on the furthest northern edge of France is not like the others.
oisy, rowdy and enormous fun!
No long parade of floats though you may come across a couple of giants. No throwing of flowers – in this town it’s about the throwing of herrings and lobster. After several weeks of parties and balls the carnival of Dunkirk explodes with a riot of colour and music onto the streets of this friendly town. On the Sunday before Ash Wednesday each year at 17.00, watch out as 500kg of herring are chucked into the crowd below the Town Hall balcony - don’t worry, they’re wrapped in plastic (15 February 2015). Men of all ages dress as women, and apply makeup with varying degrees of success turning Dunkerque into a town of pantomime dames. Women also don brightly coloured clothes and scarves. Parasols on long poles are waved around as, linking arms and roaming the streets, the crowds follow the bands and singing their hearts out. This has got to be the friendliest carnival in France and one of the strangest. The fun culminates on Sunday afternoon in the grand square in front of the town’s historic town hall when the Mayor of Dunkirk, mounts the balcony and throws herring and plastic lobsters (catch one and exchange it for a real one) to the excited crowd below. Rowdy, noisy, colourful and huge fun!
www.ot-dunkerque.fr
Tip: Wrap up warm and wear your brightest colours!
La FĂŞte du Citron
Menton's Lem
n
mon Festival
Nice Carnival by Margo Lestz
In the much warmer south, the Nice
Carnival is one of the oldest in the world; the earliest records establish its existence in 1294 when the Count of Provence enjoyed “the joyous days of carnival”. In those days it resembled a big unorganized street party, there wasn’t a parade in sight. But in 1830, the King and Queen of Sardinia visited Nice and the city council organised the first carnival parade in their honour. The royal couple sat on their palace balcony and waved as prominent Niçois ladies and gentlemen, dressed in elegant costumes filed past in decorated carriages. This was the start of the modern carnival parade in Nice which is always presided over by a gigantic, kingly character. His arrival on the royal float signals the beginning of the festivities. Each year brings a different king who sets the theme for the entire event. In 2015 the event introduces His Majesty,
King of Music, so all of the floats will have something to do with music and musical instruments. Unfortunately for His Majesty, his reign is soon over and on the last night of the carnival, he is put out to sea on a little boat and burned while the carnival-goers celebrate with fireworks. For more than two weeks there are parades every day and evening. The Nice Carnival King oversees the line of decorated floats, interspersed with marching bands and costumed characters, as it makes its way along the carnival route. The King’s helpers (the people on the floats) throw confetti and candies into the crowd and in return they are targeted by children with cans of silly string. 13 February - 1 March, 2015
www.nicetourisme.com
Menton Lemon Festival zings into spring by Margo Lestz
Every year at carnival time, the small
were evicted from the Garden of Eden, Eve “borrowed” a lemon on her way out and coastal city of Menton on the French Riviera, just down the road from Nice, holds tucked it into her fig leaf pocket. When she saw a place that was so beautiful it a Festival called La Fête du Citron – the reminded her of the paradise she had lost, Lemon Festival. she lovingly planted it in the rich soil. During this celebration, there are parades of Groves of lemon trees sprang up from Eve’s lemon and that became the town of floats, interspersed with marching bands Menton. and costumed entertainers, just like any other carnival parade. La Fête du Citron, was officially born in 1933. This lemon-based celebration quickly But there’s one big difference, all of the floats are made of lemons and oranges. It’s replaced the usual carnival events and the baskets of citrus fruit along the streets an all-natural and refreshing change. But grew into the garden full of monumental the real show-stopper is the exhibition of gigantic citrus fruit sculptures in the Biovès citrus structures that we enjoy today. Gardens. Some of these figures can be up to 10 meters tall and use as much as 15 tons 14 February - 4 March, 2015 of fruit.
www.tourisme-menton.fr
Legend has it that when Adam and Eve
Relive history on the French Riviera Le Bal des Courtisans is a newly-formed club on the French Riviera, offering themed
events to create an atmosphere of the grandeur of France at various periods during its history. As an added interest, this includes dressing the part in period costume. It’s a great way for attendees to make new friends combined with the elegant ambiance of dress-up! American Kim Defforge who set up the group has long loved for France, especially the Château of Versailles where she sponsored the replanting of a tree in the Trianon garden following the damaging storm of 1999. As a long-time member of “Les Amis de Versailles” (Friends of Versailles) Kim helped support renovation and restoration works at the historic chateau. Her connections led her to attend several splendid 17th and 18th century costume events in the Paris area. Kim fell in love with the drama and theatre of these events and decided to offer similar social revelries for locals and visitors in the Nice area. "Voila", says Kim "Le Bal des Courtisans was ‘born’!". The club’s first-year events are being fine-tuned for 2015 including La Belle Epoque (T he Beautiful Era) and Les Années Folles (The Roaring 20’s). Although membership is not required to attend events, Kim’s goal is that with a growing list of members, the club will also increase the number and variety of annual events. Theme-related animations, as well as workshops will be on offer in the near future.
“F ashion changes, but style endures.” ? Coco Chanel Kim has loads of advice about where to rent costumes and says the get-togethers will take place in and around Nice and all are welcome. This would certainly create a fabulous holiday memory with a difference and it’s a great opportunity for locals to participate and have a lot of fun.
Website lebaldescourtisans.co m Facebook: Le Bal des Courtesans
Why Search Winter is a
January and February are not typical times for property searches in France. It can get very cold, it often snows right across the country and such inclement weather doesn’t inspire home buyers to get out and take a look at what’s on offer. However, it can be a great time to look for several reasons: Less competition from other buyers means you might be able to put in a cheeky offer and get it accepted. You see the property you’re interested in at its worst. Instead of everything looking lovely against a blue sky in the summer, you see it when it’s cold, damp and miserable. If you still like it then, you’ll love it when it’s sunny Estate agents will be willing and able to give you more of their time to find the ideal property as they are not so busy.
Even though it’s not traditionally a time
I wasn’t specifically looking to buy a home in France but I went on a day trip from when buyers search, the new year is often London to Pas de Calais on a cold, wet day when people reflect on their lives and make in February in search of French wine and a decision to change including selling their food. property. They may contact an estate agent with a view to finding out what they need to A bored estate agent in a rural French town do to get their home looking its most lured me in for a cup of hot coffee. He saleable before it goes on the books. If you asked me what my hypothetical budget know the area where you want to buy, would be, laughed when I told but spent contact agents and tell them what you’re time looking for properties that met my interested in and they may be able to tip very small figure! you off. You may have room for negotiation on the price if the sellers don't have to A house had come up just two days before spend money on titivating the property. and it wasn’t even on the books yet. I went All these things happened to me.
hing for a Property in France in a Good Thing
to see it and fell completely in love with it despite the fact it was as cold inside as out as cold wind roared through broken windows. I made a very cheeky offer that had the seller and the agent taking a cut (in France the buyer pays the agent’s fees). That house is now mine and it is my dream home. If you’re looking to buy your perfect French home, here is an explanation of the names estate agents use to describe the types of properties there are in France‌ Over the page
Property Buyer's Tips
The buyer pays the agent's fee not the seller. Agents charge different fees up to 10% + so check if the property is on with different agents (at a lower price). If you fall in love with a property on the internet, ask the agent/seller for additional photos and lots of questions before you go to the expense of travelling to see it. Negotiate! Don't be afraid to make an offer below the asking price, it is accepted practice in France these days!
Different Types of Property in France Bastide: This is an old French word and general refers to medieval towns. Bastide-style properties are usually old but you can find new bastides. They are usually detached, square shaped buildings made of stone with tiled roofs that are often almost flat. You can find them in towns and in the countryside and Provence in particular has bastide style houses. Chateau: A castle or a palace. They are not all huge properties with lots of land, some can be quite petite. We all want a chateau but beware the renovation and upkeep costs. Domaine: A house with a lot of land, an “estate”, for instance vineyard properties are called domains. Fermette/Ferme: A ferme is a farm, a rural farmhouse, usually with outbuildings. A fermette is a small ferme or farmhouse in the countryside. Often they come with land but it varies wildly from a bit of land to a bit more. Hotel Particulier: Not a hotel, but a grand town house. In olden days they would have been the homes of the aristocratic members of society or the very wealthy. Longère: A long rural property of a rectangular shape. They can range from a barn with one side fully open to the elements to a one story house with a converted attic.
Mas style house
Mas: Particularly common in Provence a mas is a rural property. Maison à colombages: a half-timbered house. The attractive wooden framework is visible and often surrounded by torchis, a sort of wattle and daub, though it may be brick or plaster. Maison Bourgeoise also known as a Maison de Maitre: usuall y one of the smartest houses in the village and literally translated as “the master’s house”. They usually have high ceilings and high windows with four large rooms on each floor. Pavillon: Detached house, often used to describe a bungalow. Pied a terre: A flat or an apartment. Villa d'architecte: A modern house built to a contemporary plan, designed by an architect.
A "do-er up style house
pper?" Fermette e
Typical Maison Bourgeoise
Coeur a la crèm e Perfect for Valentine's Day This is one of the most simple recipes for this classic French dish and takes just a few minutes to make, leaving you with time to enjoy your loved one’s company whilst still impressing them! Ingredients 350g tub fromage frais (makes 4-5 hearts small hearts, you can choose the fat content) 2 tablespoons cream (optional) Sugar to taste Vanilla essence (optional) Fresh fruit of your choice Method Empty the fromage frais into a bowl and beat until smooth. Add a couple of tablespoons of cream (optional, if you’re counting calories you can leave it out) and a little sugar to taste. You can add a couple of drops of vanilla essence or use vanilla sugar if you want to have a little more sweetness. It is traditional to use individual heart shaped porcelain dishes but you can use an old yoghurt pot (make some holes in the bottom for the liquid to drain). Whatever type of dishes you use, line them with muslin and pour in the fromage frais mixture and leave to drain overnight or you can make this in the morning and enjoy it at night, 8 hours is about right. Turn the dishes upside down and carefully remove the pudding. Serve with a fruit purée or some fresh fruit, strawberries, raspberries are wonderful, mango is great too, whatever your preference or that of your loved one. Enjoy with a glass of sweet white wine, perhaps a muscat from the South of France says wine expert Cathy Henton of Le Tasting Room in the Loire.
La Chandeleur by Karen Burns-Booth
The 2nd of February is Candlemas Day an ancient festival which marks the midpoint of winter (the half way point between the shortest day and the spring equinox) and also the end of Epiphany. The day is named after the practice of bringing all the future year’s supply of candles in to church, whereupon they were blessed, hence Candle and Mass,
Candles were very important and a potent symbol of light and hope, many people thought that they protected them against the plague, hunger and many other diseases and illnesses Apart from it being a day of light and candles, it is also a day of pancakes, goddesses, poems, weather predictions and proverbs
How to Make a Perfect Frenh Crêp In France 2nd February is called La Chandeleur and many piles of crêpes are eaten. Not only do the French eat a lot of crêpes on Chandeleur, but they also do a bit of fortunetelling while making them. It is traditional to hold a coin in your writing hand and a crêpe pan in the other, and flip the crêpe into the air. If you manage to catch the crêpe in the pan, your family will be prosperous for the rest of the year. In Brittany it is tradition to add a good glug of Calvados (apple brandy) to the pancake batter.
Ingredients 125g plain flour pinch of salt 1 medium egg 300ml milk 25g melted butter
cream. 4 Cooking: For each pancake, heat a small amount of butter in a frying pan. When it begins to smoke, stir the batter and pour approximately 3 tablespoons into the frying pan. When golden brown underneath, turn and cook other side.
1. Making: Mix flour and salt in a basin, make a hollow in the centre and drop in the 5. Serving: Turn out on greaseproof paper, egg. Stir with a wooden spoon and add sprinkle with sugar and roll up or fold into milk gradually, until all the flour is worked quarters. Place on a hot dish and serve in. immediately with honey, jam, syrup, lemon or orange juice. 2. Beat well and add remaining milk and the melted butter. Pancakes keep well in the refrigerator and can be frozen 3.The consistency should be like single
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In the next issue of The Good Life France Magazine: Exploring Limousin
Discovering Le Loir (next to La Loire)
The gardens of Treguier, Brittany
Meeting Brigitte Bardot, Chateaux of France, French Chickens, Great Cuisine, Day Trip Delights, Barging in France and a whole lot more...
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