13 minute read
There ain’t no mountain high enough
by Audax UK
Forty years ago, as a fit young 33 year old, Cheltenham’s Steve Poulton, with the support of his wife, Shirley, conquered Britain’s three highest peaks by bike in record time. In July last year, now a 73 year old, battered by a relentless cancer, the disease which claimed the life of his wife in April 2020, Steve made a poignant return to the mountains to see if he could repeat the feat. This is his report:
There ain’t no mountain high enough for steadfast Steve
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THREE PEAKS BY BIKE
In 1980 Steve set off from his home in Gloucestershire to cycle the 480 miles between Snowdon in Wales, Scafell Pike in England and Ben Nevis in Scotland – Britain’s three highest peaks. He cycled and hiked up each peak in a record-breaking time of 41 hours and 51 minutes – a feat recognised by the Guinness Book of Records. His support team of five included his wife, Shirley, whom he’d married in 1974. Shirley was also a keen cyclist, and the couple rode many miles together during their 46 year marriage. Shirley died of pancreatic cancer in April last year, and Steve, also battling bladder cancer, set his sights on recreating the ride in July 2020, during the brief relaxation of lockdown rules. He completed the ride in 118 hours and 51 minutes, but the effort took its toll on his health. On the final stages of the journey in Scotland, suffering from exhaustion, he developed an infection which led to a return to hospital in Cheltenham. Happily, he recovered sufficiently to be able to continue his RRTY campaign with a vengeance in August with 3 x 200km rides. Steve has been cycling seriously since the early 1970s, is an accomplished mountaineer and a long-standing Audax member who has completed five PBPs, two LELs and numerous other cycling achievements. “The 3PbB spurred me on to make the most of the end of summer by designing an assault on the Welsh Three Peaks by Bike,” he says. “Losing my wife to cancer in April, and my own brush with the disease, means I’m now supporting the charity Cancer Research UK with my cycling.” You can help Steve’s fund-raising crusade by visiting his Just Giving page: https://fundraise. cancerresearchuk.org/page/ stephens-cycle-300-fundraisingpage-181
I HAD NO INTEREST in setting records for the Three Peaks by Bike (3PbB) challenge this time. It was simply my intention to record a respectable time, worthy of my age and pedigree. It is 40 years since I set the record – and the anniversary found this body in the throes of grade two bladder cancer.
But I completed the ride, even though the physical exertion weakened me, allowing the cancer to re-establish itself. It has not stopped me riding, though, and while coronavirus rules allowed, I continued long-distance riding through August and September.
In the spring of 2020, under the coronavirus cloud, I began to plan for the 3PbB challenge. This obviously involved listening out for government announcements about travel, tourism, National Parks, campsites, and youth hostels. The critical date was 15 July for Scotland, Wales having opened on 7 July. I discussed my plans with Chris Lister. He was keen to climb Scafell Pike with me, an offer that I was to be very grateful for. I prepared a full set of GPS routes and cut out appropriate pages from an old road atlas.
Sunday 12 July
I left home with full panniers adding 30lbs to my normal riding weight. I’d been late to bed having updated the cycling and Facebook pages on how to track my progress, and giving a broad idea of the route. I entered Wales at Presteigne and rode on to Llanidloes – a route which was remarkably scenic, if rather hilly, which, with heavy panniers involved walking several climbs. By dusk I was above the Llyn Clywedog reservoir at 390m, so stopped in a visitor car park, put on my duvet jacket and lay on the verge to sleep.
Monday 13 July
I was awake at dawn, so packed easily to continue safely downhill through Staylittle and Dylife, familiar from the Cambrian Way walking route. I enjoyed what must be the best cycling descent in Wales, down to Machynlleth. During the descent, I stopped at the Cadair Idris viewpoint. The town in early morning seemed dead, and the toilets were locked but I managed to buy some breakfast at the Co-op. I continued to Corries.
Spotting a café for breakfast, I sensed a toilet opportunity. Yes, they could provide breakfast but no toilet. But the owner advised that the nearby National Trust car park for Cadair Idris had a portable toilet block. Relief! I continued to
Dolgellau and the southern road to take the railside path link across the Mawddach Estuary to Barmouth.
I continued through Barmouth, Llanbedr, and Harlech to Porthmadog along busy roads until I discovered the old rail track was a cycle path, which was lovely despite a few hills. I arrived at Caernarvon at 3.30pm and thought that a 5pm start for the 3PbB would allow time for a meal – half a Subway tuna, cheese and corn – and a relax before the serious part. I was planning to climb Snowdon before dark.
Leaving Caernarvon I almost lost time, but soon found the B4086 for Llanberis, gently rising to the Llyn Padarn-side bypass, then through Nant Peris to start the steeper climb. Despite the panniers, this went well and a couple cyclists joined me for the final few metres to the pass. I hid the bike behind the youth hostel and joined the Miner’s Track at 6.50pm. The walk to the llyns was steady and the path was dry and fast.
I sensed my climb rate was barely fast enough and hoped I could retrace to the flat path in decent light. It was a relief to gain the ridge at the finger stone for the final easy path to the summit at 9.20pm. Five minutes to take the summit picture for proof, then I quickly retraced my steps, making it to the level path in the deepening dusk. It was late, but I was safe. I took a catnap before the final drop to the car park at 11.40pm. The toilet block’s canopy provided protection against the weather, and I settled down for the night.
Tuesday 14 July
As I prepared to leave Pen-y-Pass at 5.20am a cleaner arrived to service the toilets. Was this a sign that things were returning to normal? I was in good spirits as I cycled out of Snowdonia. I turned off the A5 at Cerrigydrudion for Ruthin and Mold, which was probably a mistake as the route via Corwen would have been flatter. I didn’t enjoy the climb out of Ruthin but was able to enjoy an excellent lunch from a café in Mold.
I wasn’t looking forward to the ride across Chester and on across the Mersey and Manchester Ship Canal. There was no “Welcome to England” sign as I entered Chester – which was a pity. The old Runcorn Bridge led to a cycle path, but I lost time finding it among road realignment work but I think it was a worthwhile variation.
So northwards now through Widnes, St Helens, and Wigan. I spotted cyclists at the Euxton Mills Hotel near Preston, so stopped for a chat and a pint of rehydrating Guinness. Continuing through Preston, I still had plenty of daylight, so continued past Barton Grange, where Shirley and I had our first married night in 1974, on our way to Skye. Towards Lancaster I found a likely bus shelter for a night-home; a good time to stop at 11.20pm.
Wednesday 15 July
I was now well-placed for the climb of Scafell Pike. Road signs through Lancaster led me astray but once I recovered, I headed for Carnforth and Milnthorpe. I turned on to the A590 for a short way before taking the A5074 to Bowness. I had an encouraging call from Ross Malpass, (fastest record holder) and I asked him to contact Chris Lister, another record holder, who was due to meet me for the Scafell Pike climb. Chris, with Nick Ray, found me in Bowness. They relieved me of my panniers and I was able to “fly” to the Old Dungeon Ghyll in Langdale.
Chris Lister and I left Langdale at 11.45am for the Rossett Ghyll approach to Esk Hause, gaining the Hause after two hours and 32 minutes. We gained the misty, windy summit after three hours and 48 minutes, the boulder field being
Top one… on the Snowden summit
particularly slippery in the wet. Nick had joined us having had new pedals and chain fitted to the bike in Keswick, and climbed through Esk Hause.
During the descent, I slipped and bashed my left eye and left knee – how fortunate I’d taken off my bi-focal specs to provide better vision. There was no serious injury, and I was able to continue cautiously. We were in Seathwaite after seven hours to traverse Scafell Pike. Was I grateful to have such loyal and fellknowledgeable companions?
Now around 7pm, my best plan was to rest for the night here and recover for the morning. Nick did some local research as I prepared to ride on. We opted for the Seetoller Farm campsite just a mile away, where I would use my lightweight tent. I had to rush to use the shower block, where I was also able to wash through my clothes after four days on the road.
Thursday 16 July
After breaking camp I made a respectable start at 7.50am. The plan was to reach Keswick for breakfast and then on through Carlisle and into Scotland. I had a double egg Panini and coffee, bought another pair of mitts and hit the road.
Once on the A595 to Carlisle I aimed for the first café – a trailer unit where I had a super egg bun and coffee. Continuing on the Carlisle bypass I needed a catnap, so parked under an overpass – not a good idea. A couple of motorists stopped to enquire after my health and then a traffic cop suggested I move on.
On the quieter back road to Gretna, I finally had a decent 15 minute nap! I enjoyed a short camera break on entering Scotland, the day after the border opened to tourists. The old A74 is now NCN74, an ultra-wide shared cycle path, now my route to Glasgow. There was no stopping at the Ecclefechan memorial to Robert Carlisle, and bypassing Lockerbie, I decided to turn back for a meal and found a fish & chip shop. It was a valuable break as it was quiet over Beattock. I finally stopped after 178km for the day at 11pm at a Services forecourt near Douglas.
Friday 17 July
After a breakfast of coffee and porridge I left for Glasgow at 5.12am. All was quiet through Hamilton, Cambuslang and Rutherglen. I was by the Clyde after three hours – and a bonus to be in a quiet Glasgow city centre. I took to the A814 and shortly found a roadside stall for a couple egg baps in Scotstoun, then easily through Alexandria to Loch Lomond.
The A82 is fast and busy these days. Shortly after Luss I noticed the cycle path which continues to Tarbet and promptly lifted the bike over the barrier. I needed another 20 minute nap on the climb to Crianlarich. Before the climb to Rannoch Moor I bought a plate of chips. I was tail-wind assisted on the climb and enjoyed the magnificent views opening as I gained height. Near the top, I stopped in the viewpoint car park and continued past a rowan, now a magnificent tree, which I’d first noted in 1971, growing out of a crack in a granite boulder.
Rannoch Moor is an isolated but wonderful place, surrounded by magnificent peaks, many of which I’ve climbed, so memories came flooding back. The descent into Glencoe was a headwind battle, often the case and disappointing. I had a couple of phone numbers for Fort William accommodation and phoned from Glencoe. No joy – and I wanted an indoor night. I was to meet Brian Sharp for the Ben
Final summit… Steve takes five beneath the shelter on Ben Nevis
and he lived near Glencoe, so I phoned Chris for possible help to advise Brian I was in the area. Before Chris could ring back, I noted the Glencoe car park and toilet block. Fifty pence later my bike and I were inside the block, settling down for the night! Solved.
Saturday 18 July
The toilet block had made an excellent emergency stop and I left at 6am for an easy ride to Fort William. I hit the High Street at 7.30am to search a café. Wetherspoons would open at 8am, so I parked and lay down in their doorway. The staff were not amused but all was well.
During breakfast, Brian arrived with his girlfriend Katie Young; Chris had arranged for them to accompany me up Ben Nevis. Breakfast and two refills later we were set for Glen Nevis youth hostel to climb Ben Nevis. I parked the bike behind the hostel, packed my small rucksack, which Brian kindly took for me, and we set off at 9.22am.
The climb has been made much easier by path-grading and rock placement to create a robust and durable mountain highway. We climbed steeply from the hostel to join the track from the visitor centre and the hundreds already streaming up the path.
The path winds gently upwards with views expanding all the way. I decided to take photographs on the return down the mountain as now was the time to concentrate on our steady climb. I was not rushed and had a break about half-way. As we gained height, we entered cloud and eventually gained the upper north face gully exits. The summit was busy but folk were respectful to people’s need to record reaching the summit, ourselves included.
After more than three hours of climbing we had 18 minutes on the summit to take pictures and have a sandwich. While the descent went well, the earlier views had disappeared, covered by low cloud, so we continued back to the hostel.
It was now raining, and I set off for Fort William to arrive at the rail station at 3.28pm to stop the clock. Brian and Katie parked nearby and we had a quiet celebration.
I enjoyed the companionship of Brian and Katie. Route-finding had not been a problem but their friendship certainly enabled me to enjoy the final phase of my repeat Three Peaks by Bike challenge. It had taken me 118 hours and 28mins, although over six days – and at age 73.
Before Brian and Katie left, they phoned a local guest house, Craig Nevis, and I was secured with a comfortable night’s rest.
My ride was dedicated firstly to my late wife Shirley, who was in my team in 1980 but secondly to my four companions – Chris, Nick, Brian and Katie who helped guide me through and provided instant friendship as fellow mountaineers. Symbolically, this was Katie’s first climb of The Ben.
The next day I rode 139km to Lochcarron to continue my planned holiday. Regrettably, I found I’d developed a bladder blockage, as a complication of my bladder cancer. I attended the nearby Ferguson Medical Centre, who sorted my immediate problems and advised I return to Cheltenham for treatment at my local Urology unit.
