Hitting the heights in the pan-flat fens

Known by many as England’s “back of beyond”, the East Anglian Fens, with their notoriously fierce winds, are not every cyclist’s favourite place. But Audaxer John Thompson puts up a robust defence of the wide-open spaces and big skies of the Nederlandse Dubbele, or Double Dutch 200

SINCE 2011 the first year of The Double Dutch 200, now titled “Nederlandse Dubbele”, I’ve spent Easter in Huntingdon. But Easter 2020, at the height of the pandemic, meant that accommodation establishments were closed – and I didn’t fancy the 100 mile drive for the early start to the event on Easter Saturday.

In the previous year I’d stayed in the George Hotel, a 17th century coaching inn which retains much of its historic character. Everything about it is good, including the food and friendly staff. I checked in around mid-afternoon on Good Friday and strolled into Huntingdon for a bite. Because it was so warm, the most popular activity seemed to be sitting outside pubs drinking pints. The weather made me look forward to riding.

Easter weather can, of course, be one extreme or the other. It can snow, or there can be glorious sunshine with well above average temperatures. It was the latter in 2019.

The route of the ride is predominantly flat. There are no few Arrivée contributors who indicate they hate flat country. They find it boring and soul-destroying as it seems to go on forever, especially against a headwind. I always feel sorry when I read that. Okay, I understand why a brutal headwind on flat, wide-open roads is unwelcome in the latter stages of LEL. I dispute, however, that all flat countryside is boring.

The “Nederlandse Dubbele” follows river banks, passes fields of flowers and goes through numerous picturesque villages. If the flatness is the only factor putting you off, I urge you to reconsider. I’m not the only one who comes back every year.

Keep in mind the route is not entirely pan-flat. The terrain around Huntingdon is undulating so there are some hills in the very early stages, and cruelly, in the final 11 miles.

Early morning on Easter Saturday was sunny but cool. Nevertheless, one could sense that later it would be warm. The informal HQ was the Wetherspoons, literally across the road from the George Hotel. It hardly needs saying that some riders were tucking into full-English breakfasts!

Off we went at 8am for an easy first 17km, to the info control in the attractive old-world market town of Ramsey. Having said it was easy, on leaving Huntingdon, the first hill starts along a short stretch of the A141 – the longest and steepest hill of the route. Once at the top it could be said the toughest part of the ride is over and done. Those other undulations in the final 11 miles are, of course, likely to be with tired legs.

At Ramsey the attractive remains of the 10th-century abbey are on the right before coming to the village of Ramsey Forty Foot. The name relates to the width of the original drainage works. The village is at the start of an artificial river, the old course of the River Nene. Designed by Sir Cornelius Vermuyden, it was part of his major drainage scheme of 1649-1653. Now on the pan-flat roads, the drain bank is followed for a short way before turning left for Benwick and on to the first receipt control in March. To save time, I used a less busy garage shop just in the town centre. The town of March is surprisingly big and busy. I’d perceived it as a small, quiet place in the “the back of beyond” but the town centre has attractive aspects. The Nordelph info control at 55 km, is a picturesque spot with a bridge over a waterway with attractively coloured barges moored. The next stage is to Kings Lynn receipt control (84 km), one of my favourite sections, along pleasant lanes with views of the Great Ouse.

❝From Kings Lynn, there is the option of a short ferry journey. I’ve never taken it. Being a full-value rider, I’ve felt concerned about losing time. If the first ferry is full-up I’d have to wait 20 minutes for the next ❞

Hitting the heights

Hitting the heights IN THE PAN-FLAT FENS WORDS & PICTURES JOHN THOMPSON

The final few miles into King Lynn are not very scenic. They’re along cycle paths, partly along the bank of the Great Ouse with an expansive view of it on the left, but also of an industrial area and a busy road. On the right is housing. Also, the off-road route starts alongside the power station. It is, however, only a few miles.

By now the wind had got up, and it was headwind or side-head. It wasn’t particularly troublesome, and I completed the 84 km from Huntingdon to Kings Lynn in just over four hours – a personal best. I figured the wind direction meant there’d be a tailwind after changing direction, from the control at Holbeach St Marks (121 km), all the way to the finish. I started fantasising about doing, for me, an exceptionally quick ride.

From Kings Lynn, there is the option of a short ferry journey. I’ve never taken it. Being a full-value rider, I’ve felt concerned about losing time. If the first ferry is full-up I’d have to wait 20 minutes for the next.

The wind got up considerably after Kings Lynn – a headwind. My dream of an exceptional ride faded. Nevertheless, I figured that once with the tailwind, I could still be a bit quicker than usual. A personal best still seemed just feasible.

The route without the ferry involves retracing part of the off-road route to West Lynn. From there, both options follow the former A17 through Clenchwarton, Terrington St Clement and Walpole Cross Keys. Shortly before the old road meets the new A17, to avoid riding on it one turns right on to a cycle path running parallel, and on to Sutton Bridge, into Lincolnshire.

The few miles from Sutton Bridge to Holbeach St Marks info control is another of my favourite stretches. It’s all pleasant lanes through the area named South Holland, past Guys Head and overlooking the Lincolnshire Wash for part of the way.

The negative factor on this day was that the combination of a slight change of direction and being alongside the sea meant an even more brutal headwind. I now realised that even with a roaring final tailwind, I would now be finishing in a usual sort of time for me.

To my relief I found I needn’t have worried. At last, a tailwind! It was like seeing water in the desert! I continued along pleasant lanes through Holbeach Bank and Saracens Head, crossing the A17 to picturesque Moulton, with its 19th century windmill. Shortly after Moulton, it’s a busy few miles along the A151 to Spalding receipt control (144 km). That said, there is the option of a cycle path. To the annoyance of some drivers, I’m not usually one for that. On this occasion, however, I used it.

It was soothing to know, as I started on the final 64km stretch, that it was a tailwind all the way. Spalding centre was busy, but it’s an attractive town. The River Welland runs through, and there are many historical and pleasing buildings and river bridges. On leaving Spalding, the route follows a section of NCN route 12 to picturesque Crowland, with its Grade-I listed Benedictine abbey.

From Crowland, it’s on to picturesque Thorney (approx.170.5 km), and then to Whittlesea and the village of Ramsey Heights. It amused me that somewhere in the Fens has “heights” in its name!

Ramsey Heights is the only place in the locale at sea level. The other Ramseys are all below. Ironically, it’s shortly after it that the undulations start. The first rise is a slight one a mile after Ramsey Heights, the next is into the village of Upwood, and the last is out of Kings Ripton, with just under five miles to go.

I was allotted a time of 11 hours, 15 minutes. I’d been right to forget thoughts of a personal best for the event. Card stamped, it was back to the George Hotel to enjoy that lovely unwinding feeling over good food and beer.

❝From Crowland, it’s on to picturesque Thorney… and then to Whittlesea and the village of Ramsey Heights. It amused me that somewhere in the Fens has “heights” in its name! ❞