The Other Side of Mexico

Tequila time Agave cutters (called jimadores) farm the UNESCO-listed agave fields ready for distilling

THE OTHER SIDE OF

MEXICO

Ancient ruins, creative hubs and quiet coastal towns – discover the little-known corners of this diverse nation

WORDS BY SCOTT HARRINGTON

MEXICO

“Evenings on the Zihuatanejo coastline are made for quiet, candle-lit dinners overlooking the blinking lights of fishing boats swaying in the gentle waves of the bay”

What comes to

mind when you think of Mexico? Perhaps the turquoise waters and white-sand beaches of its eastern Caribbean coast, or Maya and Aztec ruins such as Teotihuacán or Chichén Itzá. However, there are many lesserknown places that are often entirely overlooked when it comes to planning a trip to this part of the world.

For that reason, I returned to the country to focus on some of the areas that receive less fanfare. From laid-back beach towns to local artisan markets, these places are ideal for a taste of authentic Mexico.

CUERNAVACA & TAXCO

Few of Mexico City’s visitors take the time to explore some of the quieter towns and sights nearby, such as Cuernavaca q, a small city only an hour-and-a-half’s drive from the capital. Even the journey there is a delight: while escaping the traffic of Mexico City’s central Distrito Federal requires patience, those who do are soon rewarded with the wide-open, mountainous panoramas of Cumbres del Ajusco National Park en route.

A comparatively tiny city of 350,000 people (21.3 million inhabit the capital), Cuernavaca is named after the Nahuatl (Aztec) word meaning ‘surrounded by trees’ thanks to its forested environs. Walking through the leafy Centro Cultural Jardín Borda

park and the historic center, I was struck by how much slower the pace of life was compared to the capital. It’s the kind of town where you can sit back and watch everyday life unfold from a cafe.

It has historical importance, too. The fortress-like Palacio de Cortés, built in Gothic-Mudéjar style, originally served as the residence of the famous conquistador in 1535. It now houses a museum dedicated to the history of Morelos, the state of which Cuernavaca is the capital – as well as several original murals by Diego Rivera.

An hour-and-a-half’s drive southwest from Cuernavaca is the hillside town of Taxco w. Once known for its booming mining industry, the town now draws attention for its well-restored colonial center and intricate silverwork workshops. Strolling the winding cobblestone streets, you can see shop after shop displaying necklaces, rings and sculptures celebrated throughout Mexico for the quality of their craftsmanship.

Taxco also makes a great base from which to visit the archaeological site of Xochicalco e. Made largely from pillars of white stone, one of the site’s most striking ruins is the pyramid of Quetzalcóatl. Its carvings seem to suggest that the edifice hosted twice-annual gatherings of astronomer-priests.

ZIHUATANEJO

Mexico’s southern coast is probably best known for the resort of Acapulco, a go-to beach destination

from the 1970s to the 1990s. These days, the once-sleepy fishing village of Zihuatanejo r, four-and-a-half hours to the west, is stealing the limelight as one of Mexico’s best beaches.

Set around a crescent bay, Zihuatanejo is fronted by a beach promenade, with scores of local restaurants and shops hiding in the narrow streets surrounding the waterside. I particularly liked a property called La Casa Que Canta: from the privacy of your balcony, you can take in 180-degree views of the Pacific Ocean and the white sands of the town’s Playa la Ropa. Evenings here are made for quiet dinners overlooking the blinking lights of fishing boats swaying in the gentle waves of the bay.

Even the more basic hotels in Zihuatanejo offer direct access to the town’s clean beaches with their pop-up massage stands and kayak rentals. You could choose to explore nearby islets on boat trips, go snorkeling, or simply walk the long stretches of soft sands, where small family-run restaurants serve up fresh catches in delicious ceviche dishes, along with margaritas.

COPPER CANYON

In the north of the country lies Copper Canyon t, or Barrancas del Cobre, which is actually made up of six canyons; their combined length, depth and altitude are greater than the USA’s Grand Canyon. This remote area is traditionally home to the indigenous Tarahumara,

a d g

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a. A view from a garden terrace of the historic old Cathedral in Cuernavaca b. The beautiful Santa Prisca Church in Taxco de Alarcón c. The dome of Santa Prisca Cathedral, Taxco d. Ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice) – a classic Latin American staple e. Xochicalco’s Temple of the Feathered Serpent f. The Pacific Ocean lapping at the shores of Playa la Ropa, Zihuatanejo g. A rock formation in the dramatic Copper Canyon h. Baked agave – an important ingredient for distilling tequila i. An artisan basket maker in Cuernavaca

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Gulf of California

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Santiago de Tequila 12 11

Guadalajara

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a. The cathedral at Guadalajara b. A local market, Zihuatanejo c. The cable car at Barrancas, near Copper Canyon d. Enjoy a margarita in Santiago de Tequila e. An agave tequila landscape, Guadalajara f. Women dancing in traditional dress, Guadalajara g. Cusarare waterfall, Barrancas h. A Tarahumara woman making pineneedle baskets for sale in Barrancas i. The train rolling through Copper Canyon

who are known for being exceptional long-distance, high-altitude runners.

Due to the fissured landscape, roads are limited in this region, and travel can be long and difficult. Thankfully, the Copper Canyon is also home to the El Chepe railway, which covers 417 miles from Los Mochis y to Chihuahua u, with a number of stops in between.

I began my own journey in the town of El Fuerte i. Its hilltop fort offers uninterrupted views of the arid terrain and it’s an excellent place to watch the sun set before beginning your trip the following day.

The train passes through El Fuerte early in the morning before heading north. This first stretch of the journey is the most visually entertaining, with forested hills slowly giving way to more rugged scenery. Disembarking at Bahuichivo, you can spend a night in the nearby town of Cerocahui o, exploring its walking trails and waterfalls by foot or on horseback. The town also – unexpectedly – has a flourishing wine industry. I recommend heading to Hotel Misión for a tasting or tour.

The next leg of the journey takes you to Barrancas a, where you’ll be treated to aerial views over the canyon. There are a number of ways to take in its scenery and scale: at the Parque de Aventura, you can explore via cable car, hiking and cycling trails, or by the 1.5-mile-long ‘ziprider’ which reaches speeds of 85 mph and left me speechless.

GUADALAJARA & TEQUILA

With a population of nearly five million people, Guadalajara s, 310 miles to the northwest of Mexico City, is surprisingly seldom mentioned in the guide books. This is even more confusing when you arrive and see its exceptionally well-preserved, UNESCO-protected colonial center which dates back to 1532. Mexicans will readily identify Guadalajara’s cathedral, with its lofty twin spires, as part of their national iconography.

Across the Plaza de la Liberación, the eight pillars of the Teatro Degollado are illuminated with a light show each evening, while inside, its program of operas, plays and concerts attracts international talent. A walking tour of Guadalajara’s compact center is worth it for the last stop alone, which allows you to peek at José Clemente Orozco’s highly political frescoes in the Insituto Cultural Cabanas. His work is less realistic and more symbolistic than his better-known contemporary, Diego Rivera.

Guadalajara is also one of the best culinary cities to visit in Latin America. Local dishes include torta ahogada, a pork sandwich smothered in a sweet vinegar, garlic and spicy sauce and served on a birote bread roll. Then there’s birria de chivo, a spicy goat stew; it’s often served at special events such as weddings.

Just an hour-and-a-half north of Guadalajara you’ll find the

small town of Santiago de Tequila d, the proud home of the Mexican spirit and the blue agave plant it’s made from. Here, I was able to visit both world-famous and small, artisanal tequila factories, learning about the process of cultivation, harvesting, cooking and fermenting – and some sampling too. Walking the fields of sweetsmelling agave with a local jimador (farmer) really made me appreciate why this drink is so widely respected in both Latin America and increasingly across the world, with subtle alterations in terrain causing noticeable differences in taste and clarity.

I’d advise staying overnight here: not only does it give you a chance to enjoy this small town free from day-trippers, but the modest bars in its side streets serve the best organic margaritas you’re likely to ever drink.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Flight information: Flight time from New York City to Mexico City is around five hours direct. When to go: November to May is the dry season across most of the country, though be aware that the Copper Canyon can get a bit cold during this period. Get me there: A 15-day tailormade trip, including all the areas mentioned, starts from $6,200pp. For more information, please contact one of our Mexico specialists on 1-855-838-8670.

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