India Seen in a New Light

INDIA

Seen in a new light

India is a country that offers something new to be discovered on every trip – our specialists explain why visitors return to this vast and varied nation time and again

A new dawn Gazing out across the dawn-lit water in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

INDIA

The country that keeps

on giving, India has so much to offer that travelers can discover something new on every journey. Here, our specialists suggest three different trips: Rajasthan for the first-time visitor, Kerala for relaxation and the northeast for those looking for adventure.

RAJASTHAN

By John Cole Recently, I journeyed through Rajasthan in the north of the country, starting in Delhi and meandering through scrub forests, impressive Mughal cities and the fertile Aravalli hills, ending by the mirrorlike lakes of Udaipur.

The hectic city streets I found in Jaipur and Jodhpur were a rich tableau of fruit-sellers, spice stalls, Mughal architecture and beeping tuk-tuks – exactly as I had envisioned. However, stopping in more rural towns like Barli, a tiny agricultural settlement built around a 16th-century fort, I saw a more tranquil and slower-paced side to the country.

I’d argue that one of the best things about any visit to India is the food, and

with Rajasthan’s access to a bewildering array of spices, this area is a particularly good place to start. Many families in Rajasthan open up their homes to teach some of the region’s traditional culinary skills and recipes, as well as the complex art of blending spices. In Jodhpur I learned that the spices have to be introduced in a certain order to get the best flavors from the meat, and how to adapt them for vegetarian dishes.

A highlight of my trip was Ranthambhore National Park, which sprawls out in a patchwork of deciduous forests and scrubland between Agra and Jaipur. The early starts and patience of my game drives paid off – I was lucky enough to see a leopard hunting a sambar deer. On another drive, an almost fully grown male tiger proudly paraded across one of the dusty roads.

There’s also a huge, but largely ruined, fort and temple within the national park, which is an ideal place to take a break between the drives. Macaques leapt above my head and banyan trees provided some relief from the sun – I felt like I was living in Kipling’s Jungle Book.

Indians have a saying: ‘the guest is god,’ and the culture’s innate hospitality saw me welcomed into many homes during my trip. Numerous families have converted their abodes into homestays, and guests are often

welcomed like a long-lost family member.

During my stay at Dev Shree, in Deogarh, the family was keen to show me everything their village had to offer. At sunset I was invited to join them for a drive. I found myself sipping a chilled gin and tonic alongside the parents and grandparents of the family, watching the sun set over the lakes and hills of rural Rajasthan, a moment that I would otherwise have missed.

Rajasthan is a great introduction to India for a first-time visitor – you can experience the impressive colors and architecture in the cities, as well as the tranquillity and incredible hospitality of the countryside.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Flight information: Flight time is around 15 hours direct from New York City. When to go: October to March is the best time to travel, with dry, sunny days. December and January bring cool evenings and cold nights. Get me there: An 11-day tailor-made trip through Rajasthan, including Ranthambhore game drives and cooking experiences, starts from $3,960pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478.

Entering history Two women walking in Amber Fort, Jaipur

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Trails from the riverbanks Cruise Kerala’s backwaters on a houseboat

KERALA

By Bryn Woodworth Kerala, on the southwest coast of India, is an oasis of vegetation, from thick jungles and deciduous forests to tea plantations and backwaters. It works well for both first-time travelers as well as those returning to the subcontinent; the laid-back ambience and cultural traditions differ so much from the north that you may feel like you’re in a different country.

Last autumn, I explored the backwaters – a chain of rivers, lakes, canals and lagoons parallel to the coast. There are a number of small, characterful homestays and hotels that are well-placed for relaxing and exploring, or you can take to the water and stay on board a traditional rice barge that’s been converted into a houseboat. While cruising, I ate a locally caught seafood lunch before watching village life pass by as families fished, cooked and swam along the riverbanks.

A few hours away, back on land, I was warmly welcomed to Dewalokam homestay

by owners José and Sinta. I joined in the preparations for dinner in the kitchen, where I learned how to make a fragrant moillee (curry) using fish simmered in a ginger, coconut and tomato sauce. Later I was given a tour of the homestay’s farm, to see how the fruits and spices are grown, before relaxing in the tranquil garden by their freshwater pool.

Traveling deeper into Kerala, I explored Periyar National Park. A visit to the mist-covered grasslands and deciduous forests was a welcome contrast to the infamous traffic found in the cities. Early one morning, a naturalist accompanied me and, as the sun rose above us, we quietly walked the eucalyptus-lined trails listening for elephants, before enjoying breakfast by a lake.

Kerala’s major city Cochin reflects the laid-back ambience found throughout the state. It was once an important trading port, and I saw Portuguese-influenced architecture and Chinese fishing nets as I walked the narrow streets. As the fishermen hauled in their catch from the Arabian Sea, locals bargained for fresh fish.

Winding down for a few days relaxation, I discovered that, as well as postcard-worthy beaches, you can spend time lakeside. At Kumarakom Lake Resort I enjoyed the warmth of the sun and cool breeze off the water as I looked over the vast lake. Relaxing by the pool was the ideal way to end my trip.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Flight information: Flight time from New York City to Cochin is approximately 17 hours via Delhi, Mumbai or the Middle East. When to go: October to March brings dry, warm weather. Travel is possible in April and May but humidity and temperatures increase. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip traveling in Kerala, including a temple ceremony experience, an early jungle walk and tea tasting, starts from $3,590pp. For moreinformation, please contact one

Market trader of our South India specialists A Ha Giang on local

1-855-838-8478. returns from Meo Vac

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Beijing at its brightest (clockwise from this image) The magnificent Great Wall of China at sunset; the Forbidden City; practising t’ai chi; the Pavilion at the Summer Palace

THE NORTHEAST

By Hannah Deadman India is a country that’s close to my heart. From living in Kerala, to traveling through central India, Tamil Nadu and Rajasthan, I’ve been lucky to have explored a lot. However, there was one large area that remained undiscovered for me – the northeast. The gateway to the northeastern states is Calcutta, a city of British-colonial architecture, flower markets and an artistic heritage that has nurtured painters, writers and potters. Early one morning, I wandered among the noisy flower sellers sprawling out from Howrah Bridge. Local shoppers were busy negotiating purchases amid stalls piled high with thousands of bright orange marigold garlands.

Calcutta is also home to the ever-so-British Victoria memorial and Eden Gardens cricket stadium. The Hugli River cuts through the city, past Christian churches,

Hindu temples and Chinese shrines. Take a walk along the riverside and you’ll often see worshippers performing puja, a prayer ritual where offerings are served up to a deity – in this case, the river itself.

I flew onwards to Bagdogra and made my way up into the foothills of the Himalaya and West Bengal, through Kalimpong with its monasteries and flower fields, and across the border into Sikkim. The highest point in my trip was the tiny rural town of Pelling. Situated high above subtropical pine forests, Pelling has views, on a clear day, right across the Rathong Glacier to Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak.

I circled back south to reach Darjeeling and was lucky to experience the hill station in November, when the skies were clear. Early one morning, I watched Kanchenjunga’s peak turn from white to pink as the sun rose behind the hills. A British-engineered toy train runs from Darjeeling to the nearby town, and the

Illustration: Scott Jessop

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INDIA

Going green (clockwise from this image) Picking tea in Darjeeling; gaze up at the Himalaya; the flower market near Calcutta railway station

highest railway station in India, of Ghoom; the ride offers views down into the valley.

From the tiny Bagdogra airport, I took a short domestic flight across to Assam. This relatively flat, fertile state follows the umber waters of the Brahmaputra River. I started in Guwahati, where I was welcomed into Prabhakar Homestay with the best chicken tikka I’ve ever tried. From here I joined a cruise along the river, stopping to see ancient Hindu kingdoms, and the artisans of Majuli Island before ending in the tea region of Dibrugarh.

My favorite stop though was Kaziranga National Park, home to the one-horned rhino. The naturalists on my jeep safari knew the area intimately, ensuring I ticked off many of the animals from the ‘wildlife spotting list’ they gave me. One afternoon I found myself just meters away from a rhino, close enough to hear him breathe.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Flight information: Flight time is approximately 18 hours from New York City to Calcutta via Delhi, Mumbai or the Middle East. When to go: Differing altitudes, mean you can experience varying weather in the northeast. October to March is best for warm weather. December and January are cold in the north of West Bengal and Sikkim but should guarantee crisp views of the snow-capped Himalaya. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip in the northeastern states of West Bengal, Sikkim and Assam starts from $5,750pp. For more information, please contact one of our North India specialists on 1-855-838-8478.

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