Travelers' Tales: South Africa

SOUTH AFRICA

Amanda and Timothy Clark traveled to South Africa with Audley

A safari holiday is full of excitement, fresh air, excellent food and good company. We stayed in three lodges in the north of South Africa: Marataba Safari Lodge, Marataba Mountain Lodge (which offers both walking safaris and game drives) and Madikwe Safari Lodge.

We took our game drives in a Land Cruiser, which allowed everyone an excellent view. As is common, the first animals we spotted were small herds of impala, followed by the brindled gnu (or wildebeest), with stately kudu and zebra not far away. We learned from our guide that different species of herbivore stick together as protection against predators.

Each evening we stopped for sundowners. In Africa the sun descends quickly, plunging the landscape into blackness. The temperature drops dramatically, so we put on extra layers ahead of our night drives.

On one, we sat for several minutes listening to the sounds of the bush, hoping to hear the roar of a lion. Instead, we were mocked by the throaty chuckle of a hippo. Our guide drove just a few feet before his spotlight picked out a white rhino, its flank reflecting the light back at us. Then, after the vertical take-off of a night jar made us jump, our guide picked up the fresh tracks of a lioness in the sand. We followed them slowly. Eventually, our vehicle caught up with her – we spent at least 20 minutes watching her amble about. She was completely at ease with us following her, pausing to scent mark, and shaking her paws disdainfully as she stepped in puddles of water.

LED TO THE LEOPARD

Evening drives tended to be exciting as the carnivores were on patrol. We saw

both male and female lion, brown and spotted hyena and two sightings of leopard. Twice we escorted lions on their evening search for prey; during daylight hours we only witnessed sleepy lionesses, digesting their latest meal.

Leopard were much more difficult to see, and required great patience from our guides. We followed tracks that would suddenly disappear, only to be spotted going in a different direction. The determination of our guides paid off, however. Our first fleeting sighting of a leopard was after an exhilarating drive through thornbush thickets: a large male who was most definitely on a mission.

Our second sighting was of a female that we’d unsuccessfully tracked the previous day. We found her the next morning, sitting under a tree that used

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TRAVELERS’ TALES

Safari style Amanda and Timothy Clark were blown away by the brilliant game-watching in South Africa

to be a favorite haunt of her mother. We watched her change position, stretch and yawn for several minutes. Then she stood up and walked a few paces to bury something before leaping up into a tree to eat: an impala.

WILDLIFE WONDERS

Other memorable sightings included warthog families and a gaggle of mongooses that had made their burrows in the remains of an enormous spent termite mound.

We also watched a herd of elephant that included very young calves. One, aged about four weeks, tried to take a dust bath with comical results, as it failed to coordinate its trunk and the dust. On another occasion, we watched newborn giraffe calves, their umbilical cords still attached, cavorting around their mothers.

When we came across a troop of baboons, we were told that if we watched them for long enough we’d recognize human characteristics. Sure enough, there was a judge presiding over his court. Another surprise was seeing a white rhino bull in our path. He stamped his feet and tossed his head at our vehicle for several minutes, slowly advancing before tiptoeing stealthily backwards into the undergrowth.

Senses are heightened while walking, especially when following a track that other animals use. It gives a different perspective to your safari. While animal sightings are rare, walking gives you the opportunity to identify animals’ tracks and dung. You’re also able to enjoy the scenery and learn about ecology.

Twice while on foot we happened upon the dung of a black rhino and its tracks,

but never saw one, even though we were close enough to hear its munching. Unlike its relative, the white rhino, the black rhino is unpredictable and can be dangerous. On both occasions our guides beat an orderly retreat.

One walk took us along a riverbank in search of an elephant herd that we’d seen the evening before. Instead, we came across four white rhino. We watched them for a while before they ran off into the thorn bushes, becoming instantly hidden from view. The camouflage abilities of wild animals were truly astounding.

Going on safari leaves you full of admiration for the very knowledgeable guides. The accommodation is first class, and the chefs are extremely talented. It’s a trip that I highly recommend and hope to experience again.

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