respect - fw 2O17
Content Introduction Hip Hop Evolution influence Inspiration to Runway Review of the Collection
The fashion community gathered at the Park Avenue Armory for Marc Jacobs Fall 2017 Show. 326 mental folding chairs were organised into two parallel rows of an unfinished wood floor of the building. The collection was called, “Respect” and Jacobs asked the audience not to post on social media during the show which was the case with minor incidents. The designer stated that he wanted attendees to experience the show rather than look at their phones in an interview with WWD’s Bridget Foley. As an avid theatre goer, he wanted the focus to be on the show as it would be online afterwards. No music was played during the show and “Walk on By“, the Motown tune played when Jacobs took his bow. At the end of the show, models were positioned outside with phones to give the audience acceptance of social media.
“Several months ago I watched a documentary called, “Hip-Hop Evolution.” The 4-Part series chronicles the poignant and pivotal cultural movement that reshaped and redefined the landscape of music, which gave way to a whole new language of style.”
The Netflix series, “Hip-Hop Evolution” was the initial influence to the collection and evolved into accessories inspired by big hats, oversized sunglasses and gold chains.
Marc Jacobs did not do any interviews for his Respect collection but cited that his other inspiration was Joel Meyerowitz photography. Meyerowitz is a street photographer that is based in New York City. Both of his influences are apparent in his collection with his lack of entertainment throughout the show. To emphasise the contemporary look literally, he did not include any music but used empty space to create a new kind of experience to the audience.
“As a born and bred New Yorker, it was during my time at the High School of Art and Design when I began to see and feel the influence of hip-hop on other music as well as art and style. This collection is my representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear. It is an acknowledgement and gesture of my respect for the polish and consideration applied to fashion from a generation that will forever be the foundation of youth culture street style.�
inspiration to runway From the influence of “Hip Hop Evolution�, Jacobs took popular elements of hip hop history and created a stre =et contemporary collection.
He focused on popular clothing at the time; headwear track pants, knit pullovers, accessories and outerwear. To maintain his brand identification, he created a twist on denim jackets and minidresses.
With a sense of retro vibes, the collection was filled with comfy tracksuits, shearling-lined plaid jackets, lurex argyle henleys, zip neck sweater dresses and bootcut corduroy trousers. Thrift shop vibes with a sense of style with keyhole details.
velvet wide wale corduroy with a sense of late 70’s style. Retro plaids, fur collars, corduroy coats and slim leather boots.
LL Cool J inspired bucket hats.
Hip hop influence included gold chains designed in collaboration with artist Urs Fischer.
“Every one of the creative decisions — from music to styling to accessories to shoes to bags to clothes to the girls, the diversity of the casting or the lack of diversity of the casting, everything — it’s all part of the experience,” Marc Jacobs to WWD
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Marc Jacobs named his Fall collection, “Respect” which is an appropriate name for the hip hop inspired show. As a New Yorker, he stated that this show is “an acknowledgment and gesture of respect for the polish and consideration applied to fashion from a generation that will forever be the foundation of youth-culture street style”. To celebrate the movement, the casting of mixed and eclectic models was a perfect match showing personal character. Another influence for the show was street photography by Joel Meyerowitz. Who also is a New Yorker and focuses on everyday life on the streets. Sticking to his roots, the show was shown on the streets of New York without any entertainment or music planned. To focus on the clothes, Jacobs asked guests to refrain from using their phones to post on social media during the show. There were no photographers inside the Armory which allowed the show to start on time without the pre show clamor. The show started with the sound of Emily Rayajkowski’s platform boots on the ground.
Looking at the documentary that inspired the designer, the collection consisted of a warm red, maroons and wine to stick to the brand identity. Paraded tracksuits, puffer jackets, shearling coats ,fur trimmed skirts, slouched leather boots, insanely high platform boots and heavy gold chains were made to recognise the roots of hip hop culture. “This collection is my representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear,” he wrote. Big bubble hats were created by Stephen Jones which were made in cloche and bowler styles.
“With a palette focused on the warm neutral colors camel, ginger, brown, gold, red, maroon and silhouettes borrowed from casual attire and sportswear, dressing for ‘everyday’ is as s “The show itself is a imple as a coat over a simple presentation of dress, a sweater with all these thoughts pants or the casual culminating in an urban polish of a track suit”. landscape documented by legendary New York photographer Joel Meyerowitz.”
“Urs Fischer created big gold chain necklaces that were heavy and main part of putting the whole look together. Big bubble hats were created by Stephen Jones.” The models ended the runway with a live installation of themselves on their cellphones, giving the exiting audience an a okay to take pictures. The make up styles were different for each girl, keeping it minimal with a hint of colour through blush, lips or gloss on their eyelids. Accessories was a big part of the show. There was little to distract from the fur-lined coats, the collared knits, and the minidresses being shown. By stripping his show of all of those pretenses, Jacobs’ designs could be appreciated and with only two rows in the Armory. Overall, the hip hop connection allowed Jacobs to give viewers a taste of street style. The absence of pageantry made the loudest expression that can be made. The models walking into the streets of New York City sort of full-circle journey from Jacobs’ inspiration board to the real world, where the clothing are eventually meant to end up at.
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Augustina Leung Fashion Week Review Project
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PROFESSOR KEVIN KNAUS