Another
Austria
International Fashion Showcase London Fashion Week 2013
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Making Another Austria Austrian fashion design has become in recent years the focal point of increased public interest not only within the country itself, but also internationally, gaining acclaim for its high quality and diverse artistic approaches. Another Austria would like to take account of this particular moment. The exhibition is Austria’s official contribution to the International Fashion Showcase 2013, in London under the auspices of the British Council and the British Fashion Council. It brings together a number of selected artistic positions and lends a current view into the fashion world of Austria and beyond. As curator it was of particular importance to me to conceive the exhibition so that technical approaches to material and production are given the same attention as individual interpretations of design. The aim of Another Austria was not only to stage the exhibition itself but also to connect the fashion designers with the wider creative scene in Vienna and London. The trust engendered in the collaboration with the individual artists and designers was the driving force. My numerous conversations with the participants during the selection phase have been invaluable and have defined the manner in which the work process evolved. In addition to the aesthetic vocabulary of the individual artworks, these open-ended, personal exchanges have comprised the core parameters of the curatorial conception, provided the resulting group show with its present form. The impetus for this project was my work as editorial director of AUSTRIANFASHION.NET and my longstanding involvement with the multifaceted fashion scene. I am delighted to have been given the opportunity of making Another Austria, as this is the very first time that Austrian fashion is granted a public platform within the framework of London Fashion Week. At this point I would like to thank all participating artists and designers, the Vienna Municipal Department of Cultural Affairs and the Austrian Federal Ministry for Education, the Arts and Culture, as well as all supporting partners and sponsors. A special credit is due to the staff of the Austrian Cultural Forum and to my team in Vienna and London. Another Austria invites the international public in London to experience contemporary creative work of another Austria – fashion, design, drawing, photography and animation are the media with which the artists and designers depart to new limits. Claudia Rosa Lukas
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6–7
22 – 23
BRADARIC OHMAE
Jennifer FM Murray
fashion
fashion
8–9
24 – 27
Ignaz Cassar
Hanna Putz
art
photography
10 – 13
28 – 29
Michael Dürr
Tina Elisabeth Reiter
photography
fashion
14 – 15
30 – 33
Felix Friedmann
Rosa Rendl
photography
photography
16 – 17
34 – 35
Hannes Gröblacher
STEINWIDDER
illustration
fashion
18 – 19
36 – 37
Kris Hofmann
Sophie Skach
animation
fashion
20 – 21
38 – 39
meshit
Nicole Maria Winkler
fashion
photography
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BRADARIC
OHMAE
fashion
BRADARIC OHMAE is the designer duo formed by Tanja Bradaric and Taro Ohmae. Their first collection, Pictures Seen, evolved as a migratory dialogue exploring the existing pre-conceptions of Croatia and Japan, and was presented in June 2011 in Vienna. Four in One Season is the title of Bradaric and Ohmae’s latest collection, inspired by the memories they formed during their trip to New Zealand. Drawing on ideas of memory and place, this collection interestingly amalgamates the spaces they encountered there with the tradition of New Zealand landscape painting. BRADARIC OHMAE translates the turbulence of the present day into a raw creative energy that expresses the potential for a bright future. Taking as their starting point stereotypical representations, Bradaric and Ohmae like to experiment with technique, material, texture and pattern in order to create an innovative hybrid style. Most of their designs embody their own ethnic and cultural origins, skilfully exploring the transformation of cliché to unique. The result is a collection of originally crafted pieces with vibrant colours and meticulous attention to detail. Their designs invite curiosity and reveal both exciting and forwardlooking designs. Tanja Bradaric (*1984) studied Fashion Design at the University of Applied Arts Vienna, under the supervision of Raf Simons and Veronique Branquinho. She has worked with renowned fashion labels such as Balenciaga, Chloe, Christian Wijnants and Punto Seta. Taro Ohmae (*1985) is currently studying Fashion Design with Bernhard Willhelm at the University of Applied Arts Vienna. He has collaborated with brands including Wendy & Jim, Balenciaga, Radic and Morger and Chloé.
www.bradaric-ohmae.com
Collection Four in One Season, Autumn/Winter 2012/13 Photograph: Jork Weismann Make Up: Thomas Lorenz Model: Michaela Schwarz-Weismann
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Ignaz
Cassar
art
London based Ignaz Cassar works as a writer and artist. Cassar completed his doctoral research at the University of Leeds in England, in which he explored the phenomenology of photography in relation to the spaces and temporalities of photographic production. More recently, his research has revolved around the dynamics between educational politics, the knowledge economy and art practice. He has lectured in aesthetics at the University of Leeds and Goldsmiths, University of London, and in photographic theory at Nottingham Trent University. His work has been published in journals such as parallax, photographies, Journal of Visual Arts Practice, and Philosophy of Photography. In 2010 he was artist in residence at the Centre International d’Accueil et d’Échanges des Récollets in Paris. His interest in photography stems from his time at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna, where he was tutored by Austrian photographer Margherita Spiluttini. He subsequently received a studentship for postgraduate studies in photography by the
Austrian Federal Ministry of Education, Science and Culture. The exhibited photographs belong to a series of artworks entitled Fields (2006). This series comprises a variety of black and white panoramic shots of the English countryside. Using a large format camera, Cassar addresses the nature of photographic re-presentation and exposes the deceptive potential of photographic technology. By carefully placing the 10 x 8 inch negative over its positive contact print, the image is ‘negated’ and the photographic details, outlines and contours, gently fade into a monochromatic field of darkness. The image, which appears to be black, paradoxically emerges by way of its disappearance. In Fields, the negative and the positive converge, producing a set of singular and intelligent artworks that seem to defy the laws of mechanical reproduction and put into question the photographer’s authorial powers. www.cassar.com
(left) Field #2 (right) Field #6
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Michael
Dürr
photography
Fashion photographer and founder of Cinema Photographique, Michael Dürr (*1971), has worked in the Austrian fashion industry for more than twenty years. His photographs have appeared in international fashion magazines such as Another, ID, Sleek, Qvest, Blend, Soma, Faq, Le Purple Journal and Selfservice, in Vienna, Berlin, Paris, Rio, Hong Kong, Miami, New York as well as Amsterdam. In addition to his magazine work, Dürr has produced commercial works for H&M, Mercedes Benz, Diesel and Palmers. At the heart of Dürr’s sensuous photography lies a passion for natural daylight and the playful shadows it casts. His models are primarily female, and the cinematic sets are carefully staged. Apart from advertising and fashion, Dürr’s photography also includes portraits of prominent figures such as David Lynch, Vivienne Westwood, Adrien Brody, Diane Kruger and Vincent Gallo. Cinema Photographique is Europe’s first ever cinema for fashion photography, created and curated by Michael Dürr in 2008. Supported by companies including Vöslauer, all i need, Agent Provocateur, Mac Cosmetics, Diesel Black Gold, Keinen Beistrich
and Swarovski, Cinema Photographique received its premiere at the Festival for Fashion & Photography in Vienna. Further showings have followed in cooperation with museums, galleries, hotels as well as festivals. Dürr completed his education at the School for Graphic Design in Vienna. Starting off in the early 90s, he worked as an assistant photographer for some years before venturing into the profession himself. Today he works and lives part-time in Vienna and Miami, enjoying a successful career and life of traveling. His work has been showcased at group exhibitions in Amsterdam, Berlin, Paris, Barcelona and Vienna as well as numerous solo exhibitions in Vienna. Another Austria presents a very special selection of Dürr’s work, created for the Austrian fashion labels Elfenkleid, Claudia Rosa Lukas, Gregor Pirouzi & Nina Peter, Lena Hoschek, Petar Petrov, Wendy & Jim, Global Citizen, Florian Ladstätter, to name but a few. www.michaelduerr.com
(left) Model: Jana Wieland at Wiener Models Dress: GON, Necklace: FLorian (right) Model: Jana Wieland at Wiener Models (next spread) Model: Jana Wieland at Wiener Models Necklace: Sonja Bischur Foulard: SWASH at NACHBARIN, Vienna
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Felix
Friedmann
photography
59 Polaroid Series Boudicca – May 2012 ‘Fashion adds another layer to who we are. It makes us, changes us, leads us, deceives us and explains us. This is the most banal but important side effect of fashion. Fashion photography can help lead us or more likely mislead us into a world of phantasy and fiction.’ Felix Friedmann’s photography is strongly traditional and craft-based. His work comprises fashion, portrait and landscape photography taken on 4 x 5 inch, medium and small format film. Underscored by a technical unity, the images explore a diverse range of subject matters. His narratives emerge as a series of large hand-printed colour photographs that convey human beings in light of their paradoxical dualism: both beautiful relics and disruptive, geometric interventions in urban and organic landscapes. This exhibition presents a set of photographs shot in Epping Forest, and dedicated to 14 years of Boudicca, the British fashion label founded by Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby. As Friedmann writes 59 Polaroid Series Boudicca – May 2012 The Series is dedicated to 14 years Boudicca, shot in Epping Forest, London
‘The 59 Polaroid film was discontinued in 2008. Because it is outdated, the colours, contrasts and results are entirely unpredictable.
It is exclusive, unique, close to handmade and irretrievable. Seeing the results is exciting. It’s a bit like Christmas, sometimes you get what you want, and sometimes you don’t. I believe that the Polaroid 59 film adds personality to the imagery. The specific language of the photographic vision and the bespoke language of the fashion are tightly knit together. Boudicca, the East London based fashion label, creates designs which very much concentrate on unique, conceptual and exclusive pieces. I aimed to underline Boudicca’s vision by choosing the Polaroid 59 film in order to drift away from the deceptive world of fashion into more honest ways of being.’ Represented by Brigitta Horvat, Friedmann currently lives and works in London. His work has been presented in galleries across UK, Austria and the Netherlands, and featured in publications such as Icon, Die Zeit, NZZ, Disegno, Monocle, Apartamento, Achtung, Apollo, Guardian, Intersection, Wiener, Moderne Architektur im Salzkammergut. www.felixfriedmann.com
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Hannes
Gröblacher
illustration
Ubahnpeople Where does the privacy of an individual in a public space begin? Where does it end? And how is the border between my private being and public life defined? Austrian illustrator and creative artist Hannes Gröblacher travels the U-Bahn in Vienna with an ink pen and a sketchbook, tracing the fleeting figures and faces which he meets on his way through the city. The public space of the city occupies an important role in Gröblacher’s work and has long been a source of inspiration and intrigue for the artist on a personal as well as artistic level. A few years ago Gröblacher began to post his drawings on Flickr, under the title ‘Ubahnpeople’. Today, after three years of sketching people on the underground, his collection contains nearly four thousand portraits. As a result of this project, Gröblacher has recently set up a collaborative project together with Eva Ehrlich and the concept store in Vienna Gabarage. Using recycled materials to create bags, Gröblacher’s portraits can be bought online as cover prints for the bag, and once again are brought back into the domain of public urban space. Gröblacher’s educational background lies in landscape design and landscape architecture. Having spent some time in Berlin and Brisbane Australia, he has settled down in Vienna, but exists through his work in a constant dialogue with the rest of the urban world. This exhibition presents Gröblacher’s drawings from the making of Cinema Photographique in 2012. ‘The sketches I made during the creation of Cinema Photographique were my first contact with the fashion world. It allowed me to get a glimpse of the hard work behind the glamorous fashion scene. As the shooting took place in various open spaces within the Viennese city centre, my work allowed me to be at once a spectator and a documenter of the interaction between the photographer and the models and at the same time of the various shooting scenes and their passers-by. The challenge of this specific work was to catch the characteristic moment from the continuous flow between backstage preparations and spotlight action.’ www.ubahnpeople.com
Live sketches made for Cinema Photographique Contemporary at Kunsthalle Wien project space Commissioned by AUSTRIANFASHION.NET
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Kris
Hofmann
animation
Fashion Remix ‘I direct animations and I work as a designer. Mainly I collect things, give life to beautiful objects and let them tell a story.’ Originally from Austria, Kris Hofmann moved to London in 2004 to study Graphic Design at Camberwell College of Art. Her shift toward animation occurred during her MA at the Royal College of Art, where she produced her graduate animation film, Breakfast. The film was widely acclaimed and screened at numerous international film festivals, upon which she received funding for her second short film, Screwed Up, through the ‘Innovative Film Austria’ scheme by the Austrian Federal Ministry of Education, the Arts and Culture. In 2009, Kris was awarded the prestigious Victoria & Albert Museum Illustration Award for her pioneering work on Anna Kavan’s novel Ice. She has recently completed a number of commissions, both moving and still, including work for Granta and Madrid Fashion Week. For Another Austria, Kris has produced a stylish stop frame animation with music from the Quad Streetwalks by Callrider. She uses circular perspex segments of different transparencies to create an intriguing interplay between various designers’ looks on a seemingly rotating disc. Much like the way in which one would spin a record on a turntable, an interactive display allows visitors of the exhibition to control the player and thereby the pace of the film through touch. The result is a constantly unique remix of the film. The project was kindly supported by Microsoft, Nexus Interactive Arts and Clapham Road Studios. Hofmann works and resides in London. She continues to craft beautiful objects into moving narratives that touch upon the realities of modern existence. www.nexusproductions.com
Concept frames, work in progress. With images by MADAME WITH A MISSION, KAYIKO, FEMME MAISON, HARTMANN NORDENHOLZ, Mark & Julia, pitour, ANNA AICHINGER, GON
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meshit fashion
meshit is the Austrian fashion label created by Ida Steixner and Lena Krampf. They completed their studies in 2008 and formed the label in 2009, having gained extensive knowledge of fashion production through their work experience with Austrian designer Claudia Brandmair and Viennese shoe-manufacturer Ludwig Reiter. Since then, meshit has enjoyed a growing success in Europe. In October 2009, the label was selected for the pioneer project of Departure, an Austrian platform that supports up-and-coming talents from the creative industries. Their Spring / Summer 2011 collection was added to British retailer Topshop’s exclusive pick of international emerging fashion talents, and in June 2011, the label won the Fashion Award of the City of Vienna at the Austrian Fashion Awards. Finally, in March 2012 they presented their Autumn / Winter 2012 / 13 collection during the finals of the Best Newcomer Award at the Vienna Awards, as well as presenting the collaboration-collection meshit+Daliah with photographer Daliah Spiegel
during the Festival for Fashion and Photography at the WoodWood-Store in Vienna. As suggested by the name, Steixner and Krampf enjoy experimenting with contrasting aesthetic codes and cultural concepts. Tapping into the world of youth culture, their designs combine clean shapes and special detailing by playfully ‘meshing’ or fitting together distinct elements into one unique design. Tight and oversized volumes, androgynous shapes and sensual fabrics, classic attire and edgy finishes blend together, allowing each individual to create their own style. Appealing particularly to the young and urban, trend-conscious crowd, their imaginative collections include easy-to-wear outfits as well as more singular pieces for the fashion daring. meshit can be found in shops in Vienna, Berlin, Helsinki, Copenhagen, Rome, Barcelona and New York and online through shops based in London, Tokyo and Hongkong. www.meshit.at
(left) Photograph: Daliah Spiegel Spring Summer 2013 (right) Photograph: Daliah Spiegel meshit + Daliah Spiegel Spring Summer 2013
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Jennifer
FM Murray
fashion
‘If Jesus were the Ringmaster and the Pope resembled the status of a White Face Joe Clown, Cardinals were helpers just like Augustin Clowns, then wouldn’t Bishops, Canons and Priests be supporting acts such as Acrobats, Dwarfs, Horse riders? Aren’t Believers an audience, don’t routines resemble rituals and aren’t we all just a little entertained?’ This quotation belongs to Jennifer FM Murray’s graduate menswear collection Cirque d’Amen, in which she considers the role of religious institutions in modern society. The iconography of the Catholic Church assumes an important position in Murray’s collection. Her lavish designs allude to the performative nature of religious traditions, expanding on themes of image-making and appearance. Murray identifies parallels between the church and the circus, and her graduate collection effectively embodies some of their shared features – individualism, exclusivity, boldness and opulence. Murray holds an MA in Fashion Design Technology from London College of Fashion.
Her work reveals a particular interest in the creative challenges that arise from the increasing interactions between the fashion industry and technological innovation. Sponsored by Kopenhagen Fur, Murray was given the rare opportunity to explore new techniques with ethically sourced fur. For Murray fashion tech is primarily about experimenting with authentic fabrics in order to achieve advanced fashion garments with a sense of depth. Collaborating closely with Preciosa, a Czech jewellery company and leading producer of cut crystal, Murray’s innovative pieces sensitively combine wearable technology with spiritual and historical references. Cirque d’Amen comprises an array of culturally reminiscent shapes and textiles – Preciosa crystals, British silks and Italian suiting – all of which together provide the collection with a seductive air of extravagance. showtime.arts.ac.uk/jenrally
Photograph: Masha Mel Models: Jay & Curt, Nevs Models Make Up: Ole Elias Reinholdtsen Hove Creative Assistant: Rylan Cutting
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Hanna
Putz
photography
Austrian photographer Hanna Putz was born in Vienna in 1987. She worked as an international model for some years before deciding to devote herself entirely to photography in 2009. Without a formal education in photography, Putz gained global recognition and has already been showcased in the prominent publications Zeit Magazin, Dazed&Confused, HUSK, New York Magazine, amongst many others. With a sensitive eye for photographic composition and a natural penchant for the tender realities of everyday life, Putz’ photographs shed light on the relation between person and camera, alluding to the fragile play of identity and performativity. Her works are imbued with honesty and express a profound understanding of the subtle nature of self-presentation. In front of her camera, human relationships are intimately unveiled without the violence of transparency. Stripped of their ‘spectacular and noisy’ elements, human beings are allowed to appear in their vulnerable essence. ‘I’m interested in the high demands of selfrepresentation nowadays. Everything is public. Very few things seem to be private anymore. I try to grasp the substance of a person or to depict a feeling through a composition within an image. Perhaps it is what one could call human nature, traces of which can sometimes find their way into a photograph. A sense of closeness to oneself, for oneself rather than for someone else.’ Putz’ evocative work no doubt unsettles the borders between fine art and fashion photography, private and public, rendering it hard to define or categorise her work. Presently based in Vienna and London, Putz travels extensively and continues to develop her knowledge as a lecturer in photography at the University of Art and Design in Linz, Austria. Her photographs have been exhibited in Europe as well as in the US, and in 2012 she was selected as one of the ten finalists at the Hyères Contemporary Photography Prize in France and also shortlisted for the 1000 Words Photography Award 2012 in London. hannaputz.com
Untitled (Grandqvist), 2012
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Tina Elisabeth
Reiter
fashion
The Sound of Homeless(ness) ‘This is my sixth year abroad now and I have had a moment when I started questioning my past, my cultural background and upbringing – in a way the collection is a holistic approach, a research into my own past that has led my designs and myself in a new direction.’ The Sound Of Homeless(Ness) is the prize-winning collection by Austrian born and raised menswear designer, Tina Elisabeth Reiter. A recent graduate of the MA in Fashion Design & Technology: Menswear at London College of Fashion, Reiter leads a nomadic life commuting between Vienna, Munich, London and Berlin. Inspired by Reiter’s own feelings of displacement – as well the kitschy movies from the Austrian postwar years – her graduate collection grapples with personal questions of belonging and loss and re-examines what is the meaning of homelessness in our globalised world. Reaching back to her own roots in Austria, the beautiful Alps, organic colours, silhouettes and folk costumes, Reiter’s garments evoke a sense of nostalgia, reawakening the wish for an ideal world beyond our own. Reiter’s graduate studies were accomplished in Munich at the Academy for Fashion and Design. While showcasing her diploma collection at London Graduate Fashion Week 2010, as part of the international show, she was invited to join the Master degree at London College of Fashion and was awarded one of the prestigious Harold Tillman scholarships. In May 2012 Reiter received the highly remunerated Fashion Award from the Austrian Federal Ministry of Education, the Arts and Culture (BMUKK), as well as a START scholarship for fashion. She works with an international clientele, including Viennese it-boy Matteo Haitzmann and English musician Patrick Wolf, and is presently establishing artistic collaborations and developing fashion-oriented projects all over Europe. From January 2013 Reiter will be based in Berlin. www.tinaelisabethreiter.com
The Sound of Homeless(Ness), collection Autumn/Winter 2012/13 Photograph: Jayden Tang Hair & Make Up: Pei Chen Footwear (& dungarees): Elin Melin Models: Paul Farley & Jaco Norman
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Rosa
Rendl
photography
(right) Blouse: Isabelle Steger Model: Natalia at Look Models (left) Coat: Hartmann Nordenholz Boots: Petar Petrov (next spread) Coat: Femme Maison Boots: Petar Petrov Coat: Hartmann Nordenholz
Rosa Rendl’s visual language is both pragmatic and sincere. Her photographs are visually downscaled and possess a minimalistic aesthetic, which encourages multiple interpretations. Rendl is Austrian, but has been based in London as well as Vienna since the end of her postgraduate studies at University of the Arts London in 2010. Rendl tends to use locations with raw and empty atmospheres in order to capture better the sense of awkward isolation that she aims for in her work. For Rendl, working in very small teams – sometimes only with the model – helps to enhance this feeling of secluded intimacy. The exhibited photographs were produced in collaboration with Vienna based designers such as Petar Petrov and Isabelle Steger, and were specifically shot for the current exhibition. In this suggestive set of images, the model is portrayed in a
contemplative mood, leaving the spectator unsure of where her conflicts lie. Rendl’s photography has been published in magazines including Dazed&Confused, Metal Magazine, Novembre, HUSK and I Love You Magazine. She has worked for Hussein Chalayan and her photographs have been exhibited at group exhibitions in London, Paris, Porto and Vienna. In 2010 she won the Unit-f Editorial Award at 10 festival for fashion and photography in Vienna, and in 2012 she was granted an artist residency at the Cité internationale des arts Paris by the Austrian Federal Ministry of Education, the Arts and Culture. Right now Rendl is focusing on personal projects in Vienna and furthering her editorial work for fashion and art related magazines. www.rosarendl.com
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STEINWIDDER fashion
Remade Fashion ‘Cloths found in old stocks or at flea markets function as the basis for my fashion; torn apart and knit together again, I place them in a new up-to-date context.’ Anita Steinwidder, founder of the Austrian fashion label STEINWIDDER (previously known as ‘unartig’), is a self-taught fashion designer living and working in Vienna. Steinwidder graduated in 2000 from the University of Technology Graz, with a degree in architecture, but swiftly began designing and producing clothes in 2002. Her approach to design is unusual. Unlike most other fashion designers, Steinwidder’s working process does not originate in drawing, but rather, in the three-dimensional materiality of already existing objects. Second-hand clothes and articles are cut
up or ripped apart and reconfigured into original forms with new functions and different conceptual contexts. Each item of clothing is unique and carefully crafted by herself as well as a team of co-workers at her studio in Vienna. Steinwidder’s project-oriented collections all emphasise organic shapes, structures and relief-like surfaces, interestingly expressing a strong architectonic awareness of space and spatiality. Her designs are sold in Tokyo, Berlin, Verona and her own shop Glanz & Gloria in Vienna. STEINWIDDER was awarded the Vienna Chamber of Commerce Fashion Pruduction Prize at the 2011 Austrian Fashion Awards, and the Green & Clean Fashion Award in May 2011. In 2012 STEINWIDDER won the Modepalast Best of 10 Prize. www.steinwidder.com
Photograph: Peter Garmusch Styling: Natascha Hochenegg Hair & Make Up: Thomas Lorenz Model: Vivien
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Sophie
Skach
fashion
Design Thinking: The intellectual Way of Dressing Sophie Skach, London based Viennese fashion designer, is passionately devoted to scientific knowledge and is constantly transforming mathematical theorems and principles into pieces of fashion. Natural science is the premise upon which her creative development is founded. With an exceptional understanding of aesthetic embellishment and mathematical language, she subtly succeeds in transcending the gap between art and science. Her designs express a strong intellectual approach to creativity and clothing that skillfully translates jigsaw pieces of number theory and linear algebra into exciting new fashion garments. Sophie Skach was born in 1989 and has already gained international credit as a talented and upcoming Austrian fashion designer. Specialising in knitwear, Skach completed a BA at the Fashion Institute of Vienna and also studied mathematics at the University of Technology in Vienna. Already at the age of 16 Skach was commissioned to design an underwear collection for Skiny. Since then she has held internship positions at Swarovski as well as Geiger, and developed knitwear collections for the Swiss brand aéthérée. In 2009 Skach was invited to present one of her collections in Tokyo at the Japan Fashion Week. Her collections have since been presented in Tokyo on numerous occasions in collaboration with BUNKA College. Before moving to London in 2012 to embark on her MA degree in Fashion Design Technology Menswear at London College of Fashion, Skach was awarded the Austrian Creative Fur Award at the Festival for Fashion and Photography in Vienna. As a result she will be showing her work in Milan in 2013. www.sophieskach.com
Dorian Gray Discovers Natural Science Photograph: Manuel Platzer
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Nicole Maria
Winkler
photography
Nicole Maria Winkler was born in Wiener Neustadt, Lower Austria, in 1987. Since 2010, the year she graduated from London College of Fashion, Winkler has worked as a freelance photographer based in London and Vienna. After only two years in the industry, Winkler’s editorial and commercial clients have included, amongst others, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, TANK, Dazed&Confused, Dossier Journal, i-D online, Metal, ELLE GIRL (Korea) and HUSK. ‘Having two homes enables you to experience the best of both worlds. I feel Vienna has a considered, sustainable approach to fashion whereas London is fast-paced and constantly re-inventing itself. I enjoy going back and forth between the two, viewing the other from a distance.’
for spontaneity arguably lends her work an air of freshness that resonates beautifully with the everevolving nature of fashion. Another Austria presents Winkler’s editorial work featuring the designers AND_I, Claudia Rosa Lukas, Dimitrije Gojkovic, Lisa Pek, Marios Schwab, Michel Mayer and Vivienne Westwood. The concept of the story was inspired in main by the minimalist movement of the late nineties, and involved working with a limited colour palette of black, white and red, to emphasize the detailing, shapes and designs of the garments. For Winkler the casting process is an integral part of creating a story. She explains that, in the current editorial story, the garments possess such strength in their simplicity that it is essential for the model to be able to convey emotion and mood through body language and movement alone. www.nicolemariawinkler.com
Winkler pursues projects which allow space for the models’ personalities to come forth. This desire
(left) Styling: Leanne Trigg Hair & Make Up: Daniel Koller at One make up Model: Anna Lundgaard at Union models Shoes: Dimitrije Gojkovic Blouse + Jacket: Claudia Rosa Lukas Jewellery: AND_i (right) Dress: Marios Schwab Jewellery: AND_i
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Accompanying Events at ACF London Talking Fashion Tuesday 5 February, 7 pm
Fashion & Literature Thursday 21 February, 7 pm
Chaired by Julian Roberts (designer, film-maker and British Council Fashion Adviser), a panel of designers, including London fashion icon Marios Schwab, artist Kris Hofmann and label co-founder Stefan Siegel, among others, will discuss the creative spirit of fashion beyond the boundaries of established disciplines.
Austrian writer Gabriele Petricek, who trained as a fashion designer, will explore the Austrian fashion scene through the lense of literature.
The Designs of Emilie Flöge Thursday 7 February, 7 pm
Monica Titton, sociologist at the University of Vienna, will discuss the production of the everyday aesthetic as shown on street style blogs. Reconstructing the history of street photography in fashion, Titton analyses which techniques are employed to convey the impression that on these blogs we are presented a ‘democratised’, authentic account of contemporary fashion.
Emilie Flöge was Gustav Klimt’s lifelong companion and inspiration. Their symbiosis of art and haute couture produced beautiful paintings and beautiful dresses; however, the dresses, though pioneering the new style, were not worn in public. Warburg Institute historian Dorothea McEwan presents an evening of dress design and personal messages.
Viennese Café Open House Weekend Friday 15 – Monday 18 February, 10am – 5pm This is a unique opportunity to experience a taste of Austrian culture. The collections of six emerging contemporary Vienna and London-based designers will be presented within the unique setting of a Viennese coffee house hosted by London’s Kipferl café. Guided tours of the exhibition will take place each day at 3 pm and on appointment. Join us for a slice of Vienna!
Emilie Flöge and Gustav Klimt Imagno/PictureDesk.com
From Catwalk to Sidewalk Tuesday 26 February, 7.30 pm
Thank you We would like to give a very special thanks to the following people for their generous support: Michaela Amort, Liane Baal, Daniela Birk, Jürgen Bischof, Paulus Dreibholz, Dagmar Buchta, Ignaz Cassar, Sarah Davey, Bernhard Denscher, Gudrun Dewhurst, Laura Dominici, Michael Dürr, Andrea Ecker, Berthold Ecker, Barbara Egger, Vanessa Fewster, Marion Friedmann, Peter Kollreider, Barbara Goeker, Kris Hofmann, Georg Karabaczek, Belinda KazeemKaminski, Elisabeth Kögler, Herwig Kolzer, Ivan Korolev, Wolfgang Langeder, Eugenia Lapteva, Sonja Lidauer, Klaus Werner-Lobo, Anna Lukas, Herbert Lukas, Peter Lukas, Christian Malnig, Laura McKirdy, Marilyn Minns, Manuela Mitevova, Christa Moser, Peter Mucha, Maria Oberfrank, Olga Okunev, Anna Orsini, Hanna Putz, Julian Roberts, Sophie Skach, Peter Staudinger, Tomas Svoboda, Debra Thompson, Monica Titton, Gregor Titze, Leanne Trigg, Niamh Tuft, and Ingrid Witts. We are also deeply indebted to all our partners and sponsors, and the members of the Austrian Cultural Forum London. This exhibition would not have been possible without your help and hard work.
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Teams & Sponsors
Another Austria
Austrian Cultural Forum London
Publishing AUSTRIANFASHION.NET
Director Elisabeth KĂśgler
Publishing Editor & Curator Claudia R. Lukas
Deputy Director, Finance Franz Wechner
Writer & Editor Eugenia Lapteva
PA to Director Alexandra Macejin
Editorial Assistance Manuela Mitevova
Project Manager Barbara Egger
Project Assistant Sonja Lidauer
Public Relations Officer Vanessa Fewster
Translation Introduction Ignaz Cassar
Reception & Audio / Visual Coordinator Balachandra Arunachalam
Exhibition Design Support Tomas Svoboda Chris Gunson
For more information please visit www.acflondon.org office@acflondon.org
Graphic Design Polimekanos Print Healeys Group For more information please visit www.anotheraustria.com www.austrianfashion.net info@austrianfashion.net
Public Partners:
Cooperation Partners:
This project is part of the British Council and British Fashion Council’s International Fashion Showcase 2013.
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www.anotheraustria.com