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Editors Letter I’m no Vivienne West wood. I can go to the shop without getting chased by paparazzi, and have no individuals following me knowing my name. Who knows, that day may come. But for now it’s just me, MYSELF, and my passion for dance. Dancing is a huge part of my life, and I want to share my PASSION with you, the reader. My other love is fashion. And so here is an exploration of how these t wo BFF have intert wined over the last century.
Such has been the journey that these past few weeks have taken the life out of me. From research to Photoshop to going out and getting people to smile for the camera, every step of this exploration has been to show how FASHION has developed over not just time but 100 YEARS, from the 1900’s to the current 21st century. It’s showing you just how interesting dance can be and how it links
the trends of today’s cat walks to the dance floor. There’s Hip-Hop from the Bronx (which developed to stop fighting with its edgy street style) as seen on the catwalks of Marc Jacobs and Supreme’s Autumn/ Winter collection 2017 to Charleston (which came from the American dream and Hollywood show business) which can be seen in the S/S18 collection of Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent with his marabou cocktail dresses. STYLE, in any of these dances, is an essential ingredient. As you will see it’s all about who has the best dress, the coolest kicks, and the best tuxedo. Trying to teach every person at least one thing about the past decades. It will INFORM, EDUCATE, and show the RAWNESS behind my interest and trigger your thought bank, making you see and outfit and automatically “Name that dance style”. I hope you feel inspired to show your individuality and be your own person. As soon as you put this copy down! “Thanks!”
A.West” ...
1900
The 1900’s seen the opening of the Blackpool Tower to start a new craze
of Ballroom dance. The main starting place for the Waltz. It brought people together and help the gain connections and friendships. Yet also helped the rise of James Finnigan and his music carrier. It was the new era with natural flowing steps and interpreted music.
“And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music.� -Friedrich Nietzsche
1910 The 1910 Argentine Tango was the in dance to help being people close during the war and help them gain the confiedence they needed with a fisty passionate dance. It originated in Paris, then moved to Berlin, London and finally the USA. The Dance started in a working class port neighbourhoods, yet then the middle and upper class tooke the dance as their own. All to create the year of
“GOOD HONOUR�.
1920
The Great Gatsby Period
“They were smart and sophisticated, with an air of independence about them�
1930
1940
1950
1960
Radical
“This is the way I dress for punch ups� - Lebe Mann From hooligan to hip hop hierarchy, Stone Island has changed from being a brand about hooligans to a luxury label. Before Stone Island‘s image revival, the brand was aimed at the British public and its football-loving fans. Now it has been marketed to other countries as street fashion. Here, in Britain, as soon as we see a removable badge with the Stone Island logo on it we assume that the individual is part of the football scene. It has definitely made a name for itself due to the consumer and not just the clothes. Personally, I like the brand due to the stories that people have connected to it, and the way that the brand has transformed itself through the music industry to become something much more than a label for terrace lads. People such as Drake and Liam Gallagher have managed to both keep the label true to its roots while introducing it to a different audience. Drake has taken it to America and transformed the brand to make it more desirable, whereas Liam has still stuck to the roots and made the brand very homely for the original users.
Designer
Since the birth of the brand in 1982 it has come a very long way from where its founder Carlo Rivetti thought it would. It has gone from hooliganism in the 1990s to platinum selling artists today. Of all the Italian brands to wear, nobody would have clicked that Stone Island would be more desirable than Valentino, Parada and Armani. It started with the Paninaro boys waiting around and making a name for themselves in Italy on football days. This now has stemmed to one of the largest cultures in English history, not even counting the scene abroad. Therefore, I am so into the radical designer as it has stemmed from people with nothing but a belief to something that is now a multimillion pound company. They improve on their collection every year but make sure that they also include that classic removable badge. This badge is the most symbolic thing to the brand even when the writing is removed the brand is still recognisable just from the compass-styled logo. I believe this designer is radical because it is not just a brand that focuses on football hooligans anymore, it has allowed room for the high-end spenders also. Proven in every collection with the standard bright colours that the hooligans want to stand out from the crowd, yet also keeping the same classic blacks, used to look more classy and formal the higher-end spenders.The hooligan crowd needs these bright colours to make them look the best and feel like no one can touch them. Whereas it is the opposite at the other end of the spectrum, higher-end buyers like the black and whites, yet this is to make them feel more classy and elegant as colours for them look cheap. Therefore, Stone Island offers a range of items and colours with their classic logo. Each year they bring out new trends yet this year it is a reflective look. A lot of the reflective wear in this years collection makes the brand stand out more due to the originality, yet also sets it apart from other brands such as C.P and Paul and Shark. These brands are some of the other original hooligan brands yet they have yet to widen their brands out to of people and consumer levels. Stone Island’s radicality comes from the history and how the brand has contrasted it’s consumer while developing it’s unique selling points for each group. The brand knows what happens within the streets and the hooligan scene but they still create collections that help to support their beliefs and stand out from the crowd no matter what. Therefore, I believe Stone Island is one of the most notorious well know football hooligan brands, shown now even more so to be one of the higher-end Hip Hop brands.
“If spirit is the seed, dance is the water of its evolution.” -Shah Asad Rizvi
1980
1990
2000
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Plats, Blacks and Funny Hats, how times have changed from the tucked in waist and long gloves, to baggy clothing and gloveless arms. This shows how fashion has change over time and become the complete opposite for some women they need the skinny waist and tucked in tum. Woman like the chance to show their feminine side yet more so like that they can have the loose look clothing and get away with it. It developed from people such as Coco Chanel, with her baggy striped tops and Raf Simmons’s baggy trousers. It has taken a twist on the original feminine look but still allows women to have an edgy look without showing their actual body shapes. Black the colour all women love, and want to wear no matter what format or what item
of clothing. Evidencing this clearly here from this image in the 1840’s to the 19th century with Chanel’s Little Black Dress movement. Women adore this colour not just for its ability to match any look or any colour yet the capability it must be slimming and still manage to look in the tum without even having to buy tight or uncomfortable clothes. It allows lines to look longer and stomaches to look smaller with no need for breathing in or even standing up taller. It sinuates class and still even though it is a gloomy dark colour allows femininity and sexuality to shine through. Yet the hat, the hat in this image just shows how fashion is a reoccurring thing. Large hats never used to think about, but they have now become, the forward essential to the celebs in 2010. People such as Pharrell Williams and Justin
Bieber have shown this in their videos and their appearances. This has sparked up a new trend again and has made people get involved. Even people such as Keith lemon and other not so famous celebs. The makeup is the next iconic thing in the image this relates to the trend of looking pale as pale skin used to be classed as the most beautiful. Whereas linking to now a day this trend is most certainly out the window. Not just orange skin but tanned faces are the main look now. It uses be the more make up the more people flaunted their wealth, yet now for most people less is more. The less they wear the more people desire to be like them just like the change in Alicia Keys and her dramatic change of to a no make-up beauty. This creates a huge opposite to trends back then to now. But it helps to see the movement of not just fashion but all the elements that add up to be fashion related and create the fashion look. Not just singularly but all these elements added together create a story and movement showing the transitioning in fashion from
one point to another. Especially linked with the styles that still have come back around in today’s fashion, without think this does link well to the styling of today yet just in different formats. Yet even though this picture doesn’t relate on an interest basis to me it makes me realise the link in fashion and how every aspect has transformed over time to be something else in today’s context.
2010
“Hip-hop is the streets. Hip-hop is a couple of elements that it comes from back in the days... that feel of music with urgency that speaks to you. It speaks to your livelihood and it’s not compromised. It’s blunt. It’s raw, straight off the street - from the beat to the voice to the words”
-Nas
“Hip-hop is a voice for voiceless poor people”
-Russell Simmons
exhibition review