African Safaris Issue 41 by Aveng Media

T RAV E L • LU X U RY D E S T I N AT I O N S • C O N S E RVAT I O N

ISSUE 41

SA R50.00 USA & CANADA $5.00 UK £4.00 EUROPE €9.00

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Sapi Explorers Camp - Great Plains Conservation - Zimbabwe

Welcome to The Balmoral The Balmoral is centrally located on Durbanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Golden Mile, with the sun-kissed beach on our doorstep and a short walking distance from the shopping and business district, the Durban ICC, Suncoast Casino & Entertainment World and the popular uShaka Marine World. The hotel features an old charm, as it was originally a colonial homestead. The original faĂ§ade has been retained as well as many of the other original furnishings. To meet the needs of the modern traveller, it has been completely refurbished with the latest amenities, yet keeping to its unique charm. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in Durban for business or pleasure, the best of both worlds can certainly be found at The Balmoral.

125 O.R. Tambo Marine Parade, Durban, 4001 T: +27 31 368 8220 E: enquiries@balmoralhotel.co.za

Welcome to The Capetonian Conveniently situated between the vibrant Atlantic Seaboard and Table Mountain, The Capetonian provides the ideal option for both business and leisure travellers. With CTICC on our doorstep and the popular V&A Waterfront and Cape Town’s CBD within walking distance, it is the perfect base from which to explore the majestic Mother City. Our welcoming reception flows up to our modern guest rooms, offering quality and comfort. Savour locally inspired dishes at our strictly Halaal in-house restaurant, On the Square. Indulge in our delicious buffet or á la carte lunch and dinner menus – freshly prepared to delight your taste buds. We invite you to experience it for yourself…

Pier Place, Heerengracht Street, Cape Town, 8001 T: +27 21 405 5670 | E: enquiries@capetonian.co.za www.capetonian.co.za

SAFARI FOR THE SOUL Aquila Private Game Reserve & Spa provides so much more than just an unforgettable wildlife experience

quila Private Game Reserve & Spa is a 4-star family-friendly safari destination just two hours’ drive from Cape Town. The 10 000-hectare conservancy, situated between the Langeberg and Outeniqua Mountains in the southern Karoo, is home to the majestic Big 5 legends: elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard and rhino. Accommodation is offered in bush-style cottages (premier, luxury or standard) built right into the hillside with outdoor rock showers, and modern lodge rooms with panoramic vistas over the reserve. There

AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 41

are options for two people as well as families of four, six or eight, and the reserve also welcomes visitors for morning or afternoon day trips. Guests can take a game drive on either a traditional safari vehicle, on horseback or on quad bike—each providing unique personal encounters with the wildlife at the reserve. A private safari with proudly South African–style snacks and bubbly can also be arranged for intimate gatherings in the veld. The reserve has a 35-metre long crystal-clear swimming pool with a bar serving cocktails and ice-cold beverages for poolside socials. There are large dining areas and an African-style buffet restaurant for a taste of local cuisine, as well as the cosy cigar bar and lounge for a relaxing evening. A library and curio shop will sate enquiring minds. Children are well catered for as well, with an entertainment area (jungle gyms and mini golf, among others) and horseback rides. The night-time fire pit entices guests to a memorable gathering under the Karoo stars, complete with a marshmallow braai

and a ‘tour’ of the Milky Way facilitated by a star safari guide. The Aquila Spa is the latest addition to the world-class facilities and services on offer at the reserve. Whether you choose the heated indoor pool, outdoor pool, sauna, steam room or one of the 10 treatment rooms, you’re sure to enjoy a luxurious African pampering and unwind after an actionpacked day. A group or couples room will add to the special serenity of the spa and its creative use of natural elements. Aquila is so much more than just an unforgettable wildlife experience—it’s a luxurious African adventure that will make memories to last a lifetime. For further information, visit www.aquilasafari.com. To make a booking, email res@aquilasafari.com or telephone 0861 RESERVE (7373783). GETTING THERE Aquila Private Game Reserve & Spa is situated on the R46 in Touws River, Western Cape.

BIG 5 SAFARI & SPA Real Africa. Real Close To Cape Town. Over 10 000-hectares of Big 5 conservancy.

4-STAR ACCOMMODATION | SPA | GAME DRIVE | HORSEBACK & QUAD BIKE SAFARI At the award-winning Aquila Private Game Reserve and Spa, guests will get the opportunity to experience a Big 5 safari, together with outstanding service; it just does not get any better than this. With game drives, quad bike and horseback safaris situated just 2 hours’ drive from Cape Town, it’s the closest you will get to real Africa, in the lap of luxury. The world-class spa at Aquila adds to the already exceptional facilities and services on offer. It is a masterpiece of luxury, defined by its serenity and creative use of natural elements.

www.aquilasafari.com

AquilaSafari

AquilaSafaris

RESERVATIONS: +27 (0)21 430 7260 or RES@AQUILASAFARI.COM

Contents ISSUE 41

Local is lekker 22

Cheers!

Bushveld Paradise

Savour the surrounding landscapes from your dinner table at these top-class hotel restaurants in South Africa’s main cities

A sampling of the must-visit farms and estates in the Cape Winelands

Answer the call of the wild at Tintswalo Lapalala, a luxury tented camp in Limpopo’s Waterberg which blends seamlessly into the surrounding environment

Moving Pictures All aboard the luxury Blue Train for an unforgettable trip through some of South Africa’s most beautiful landscapes

Food with a View

AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 41

Bay of Plenty The Eastern Cape’s Nelson Mandela Bay attracts thousands of visitors each year to its glorious beaches, amazing wildlife reserves, poignant heritage sites and more

Nature’s Bounty Verdant hills, majestic mountains, shimmering coasts… Here are the top 10 natural attractions in the KwaZuluNatal province

Your Gateway to Adventure Explore the pristine wilderness by day, relax in comfort by night—this Kruger Park hotel will delight any safari enthusiast

Dining Destination THE FINEST

Situated in Africa’s richest square mile, come & explore a blend of all the world’s finest cuisines.

CONTENTS

Into Africa 70

Just the Two of Us

Time Out

Follow in the footsteps of the old explorers—and in the tracks of animals—on a mobile camping safari in the remote bushveld of Botswana

Planning a romantic rendezvous for you and your beloved? Embrace the extraordinary on a journey to Tanzania’s top destinations

Recharge your body and mind at Namibia’s top spa and wellness retreats

Around Town Spend a leisurely day discovering the natural and cultural highlights of Kenya’s capital city, Nairobi

Over Sea and Sand There’s plenty more to do on the islands of Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago than lazing on the beach with a drink in hand

Land of Kings Embark on a journey through the far north of Namibia—where the desert meets the Angolan woodland, where royalty rules and memorials whisper of fallen kinsmen

102

Wild and Free

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108

A Sky High Take a flying safari over Namibia for the best views of all its natural wonders

FOR THE ULTIMATE ROOIBOS EXPERIENCE VISIT

TEA ROOM, SHOP AND INFORMATION CENTRE 4 VOORTREKKER STREET, CLANWILLIAM Come and enjoy a refreshing cup of Rooibos and see our informative displays including a 10-minute audio-visual presentation about the history and production process of this singular beverage.

The cosy tea room offers a selection of 13 different Rooibos and Honeybush teas, various Rooibos Cappuccinos, Ice Teas, Milkshakes and Ice Creams. For the ultimate Rooibos experience and hearty Clanwilliam hospitality, visit us at 4 Voortrekker Street, Clanwilliam. GPS: 32°10’40”S – 18°53’28”E Open Mondays to Fridays from 09:00 till 17:00 and Saturdays from 09:30 till 13:00. For more information about the House of Rooibos and the wide range of products available visit www.shop.rooibosltd.co.za

Telephone: 027 482 2155 www.shop.rooibosltd.co.za

RB20.03 African Safaris

The shop is stocked with an exciting range of original, flavoured and blended Rooibos teas, Rooibos-related food and cosmetic products, souvenirs and gift items.

CONTENTS

YEARS

Witness Conservation in Action

Regulars 16

FROM THE EDITOR

116

CONSERVATION: Wanted, Dead or Alive The trade in African primates is a hugely lucrative endeavour involving hundreds of thousands of animals. Marilyn Norconk explains why this is big business and what can be done to put a stop to it.

Open Daily 08:00 till 17:00 The Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) is a non-proﬁt, open-to-the-public ﬁeld research centre and the world leader in cheetah research and conservation.

CCF’s International Research and Education Centre

Cheetah Museum - Model Farm Cheetah Sanctuary - Dancing Goat Creamery

iti tiv e c a rs nt on e cod e niv iscou or us 2020 n l A 10% dhis ad tahck-in. a i ec For a how t heet che s C a Sp

ary

Activities

t un o isc es

Daily Tours: Center Tour & Cheetah Drive Both activities include Cheetah Feeding (14:00 Weekdays / 12:00 Weekends) Pre-booked Tours: Cheetah Run or Behind the Scene

Stay Overnight At our modern and family-friendly Cheetah View Lodge or enjoy our luxury African style Babson Guest House. Both have sweeping views of the Waterberg Plateau. Bookings: +264 (0)61 237 294 Online: www.cheetah.org | www.cheetahecolodge.com Fax: +264 (0)61 237 295 Email: visit@ccfnamibia.com

120

SUBSCRIPTIONS

VICTORIA FALLS

MAUN

WINDHOEK

MOZAMBIQUE

SINGITA PAMUSHANA PAFURI WELGEVONDEN GAME RESERVE

MADIKWE

OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

WEST COAST

KMIA

TIMBAVATI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

SABI SANDS PRIVATE GAME RESERVE PHINDA

Federal Airlines Bases Major Destinations

CAPE TOWN

PLETTENBERG BAY

Shuttle Routes Chartered Routes

From the Editor

And just like that our planet comes to a standstill. Not since the Aids pandemic of the ‘80s has the world been as united in fear as it is currently. The novel coronavirus, or Covid-19, has everyone running scared as new cases of infection are reported each day around the globe. We can only speculate what the future holds; wait and hope that soon a vaccine is ready. Until then, our first, best and only line of defence is increased vigilance in our hygiene regimen. And while South Africa has not been as hard hit as many countries around the world, it’s bound to get worse. According to a pharmacist with whom I chatted while out shopping for hand sanitiser, we’ve been fortunate so far due to the warm summer temperatures that are killing off the virus. But, she warned, we should be wary of the advent of cooler winter temperatures, when we’ll lose this advantage. It’s therefore heartening to see South Africans are already in prevention mode, with sales of hand sanitiser and barrier masks spiking. It was like a scene from a movie when I was at OR Tambo International at the beginning of March, with people donning masks, scarves and handkerchiefs to cover their noses and mouths. Though, it was a little comical to see a couple with their barrier masks dangling around their necks while having a smoke outside the airport… You can always rely on South Africans to give you a laugh! Comedy aside, Covid-19 is no laughing matter, and I trust everyone will be taking the necessary precautions to ensure their safety and that of their loved ones. Stay safe, stay healthy.

Ashley

out to

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Cape Vidal beach, iSimangaliso Wetland Park, World Heritage Site.

CONVENTION ON WETLANDS (Ramsar, Iran, 1971)

Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s diverse protected areas and natural sanctuaries allow you to explore our unique big-game

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Conservation, Partnerships & Ecotourism

Berg Bush Battleﬁelds # Do Dundee

THE AFRICAN SAFARIS TEAM PUBLISHER: Donovan Abrahams EDITOR: Ashley van Schalkwyk ashley@africansafarisint.co.za CHIEF SUB-EDITOR: Tania Griffin DESIGN AND LAYOUT: Stacey Storbeck Nel indiodesign@mweb.co.za EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS: Tania Griffin, Charmaine Harry, Hayley Kannemeyer PHOTOGRAPHIC SOURCES: COVER: Roger De La Harpe/Africa Imagery Adobe Stock, Wikimedia Commons, Port Elizabeth Hotel Group, Four Seasons Hotels, Newmark Hotels, Tsogo Sun Hotels, Steenberg Estate, Leading Hotels of the World, The Blue Train, Huka Retreats, Amakhala Game Reserve, VW SA, South African Tourism, Tintswalo Group, Protea Hotels by Marriott, African Bush Camps, andBeyond, Natural Selection, AFEW Giraffe Centre, Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Miracle Experience, The Zanzibar Collection, Elewana Collection, Anantara, Azura Resorts, Gondwana Collection Namibia, Namibia Collection, Onguma Game Reserve, Reservation Destination, GocheGanas SALES DIRECTOR: Donovan Abrahams SALES MANAGER: Faith Madubula ADVERTISING SALES: Kay Davids, Vuyo Maseko, Shirley Paris, Shelley Swartz, Marc Wessels ONLINE CO-ORDINATOR: Thokozani Ndlovu ACCOUNTS: Benita Abrahams HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER: Colin Samuels CLIENT LIAISON: Majdah Rogers PRINTER: Academic Press DISTRIBUTION: Allied Publishing, Media Support DIRECTORS: Donovan Abrahams, Benita Abrahams, Colin Samuels, Ashley van Schalkwyk PUBLISHED BY: Aveng Media

Address: 5th Floor, Boland Bank Building, 18 Lower Burg Street, Cape Town, 8001 Tel: 021 418 3090 | Fax: 021 418 3064 Email: ashley@avengmedia.co.za DISCLAIMER: ©2020 African Safaris magazine is published by Aveng Media (Pty) Ltd. The Publisher and Editor are not responsible for any unsolicited material. All information correct at time of print.

THE SEA AT ITS MOST

MEDITERRANEAN

Experience the romance and sophistication of the Western Mediterranean. From the historic treasures of Italy to the picturesque coastal towns of France, from the cultural and culinary vibrancy of Spain to the ancient wonders of Malta, explore the cradle of western civilisation. And between ports, discover the shipâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elegant restaurants, stylish bars and chic boutiques, on a trip to remember. For more information, visit msccruises.co.za

@ • + ( ) •

DINING DIVERSIONS

FOOD WITH A VIEW Savour the surrounding landscapes from your dinner table at these top-class restaurants at some of South Africa’s finest city hotels

By Tania Griffin

AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 41

DINING DIVERSIONS

BEACHFRONT The Beach Hotel, Port Elizabeth www.thebeachhotel.co.za This Friendly City establishment is situated directly opposite Hobie Beach and next to the popular Boardwalk Casino and Entertainment Complex— making the hotel a most attractive landmark along the beachfront where the gently sloping stretch of golden sand meets the bright-blue waters. Not one but three on-site restaurants vie for your palate’s attention: The Verandah (grab some canapés or a Tea by the Sea), The Crest (tuck into an expertly prepared three-course buffet dinner) and Ginger. The latter, which has been voted one of the best restaurants in Port Elizabeth, dishes up fine-dining cuisine with an Eastern Cape influence and tinged by the fresh salty air of the ocean: harissa fish soup, lemon-roasted chicken on black pepper gnocchi, and cinnamon, fennel & ginger ice cream are a few samples of what’s on offer.

ROLLING HILLS

The Westcliff, Johannesburg www.fourseasons.com There’s no sign of the busy Joburg metropolis here on the Witwatersrand, just a chic hillside village with sunsplashed villas woven with courtyards, fountains and gardens. Come dinnertime, take a ride up the glass elevator to the aptly named View Restaurant where you’ll sit down to a sumptuous meal overlooking the seemingly endless copses of jacaranda trees down below. In the spring, all you’ll see is a swathe of pretty purple blossoms. This panorama is matched only by the creative cuisine served by the restaurant. Signature dishes include the miso-cured sea bass, sous-vide king oyster mushrooms, and gemsbok tartare with black melba.

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DINING DIVERSIONS HARBOUR Victoria & Alfred Hotel, Cape Town newmarkhotels.com Built in 1904 as the North Quay Warehouse, the iconic hotel was named after Queen Victoria and her son, Prince Alfred, who played an intrinsic role in the establishment of the Breakwater Basin—now the site of Cape Town’s famous V&A Waterfront. Thanks to its enviable location, guests can enjoy sophisticated accommodations amid the buzz of this tourist hot spot. The menu at in-house restaurant, Ginja, comprises a wide selection of dishes inspired by various cuisine styles. Savour the rustic tasting menu—with mesmerising options such as soft yolk ravioli, slow-roasted goat, 8-hour octopus, and grilled stone fruit crumble—as you lift a glass to the towering Table Mountain and the boats sailing by right in front of your table.

CITYSCAPE Sandton Sun www.tsogosun.com/sandtonsun-hotel

on sustainability and seasonality, with the chefs using only the best in local ingredients to conjure up their magical dishes: Wagyu beef, grass-fed lamb, poached oysters. The special show kitchen gives the unique opportunity for an up-close-and-personal encounter with the talented chefs.

A permanent and well-known fixture in the modern Sandton skyline, this hotel combines distinguished

accommodation, contemporary dining, fashionable shopping and business services to appeal to both leisure and executive travellers. The San Restaurant is elegant and trendy, offering guests fine dining in a relaxed atmosphere with breathtaking aerial views across the city. The focus is

AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 41

AFRICAN PRIDE

Nelson Mandela Square: where cultural vibrancy, elegance and creativity merge

elcome to Nelson Mandela Square, Joburg’s finest dining destination situated in the heart of Sandton. Paying homage to one of the world’s greatest men, our symbol of freedom and African pride, Nelson Mandela Square is home to an iconic statue of Nelson Mandela. This makes for a popular attraction—and together with the African sunshine, Nelson Mandela Square has become a prime lifestyle and fine dining destination for locals and tourists alike. This afro-cosmopolitan space is where flavour meets fusion, where cultural vibrancy, elegance and creativity merge. Nelson Mandela Square was inspired by European style piazzas and is home to a three-storey library, an art-novae 200-seat theatre, and an array of world-class restaurants catering to different cultures and cuisines. The restaurants housed in sophisticated Nelson Mandela Square are all iconic and celebrated for their culinary perfection: The Big Mouth, Trumps Grillhouse & Butchery, Hard Rock Café, Tasha’s, Pappas on the

Square, Cilantros, Septimo, The Butcher Shop & Grill, RocoMamas, and Nonna’s Italian Kitchen. Although boasting some of the finest dining options in the country, Nelson Mandela Square also offers a retail sector of its own with more than 60 exclusive stores. As one of Travelstart’s Best Tourist

Attractions in South Africa, you are invited to come to The City to explore the freedom of the locally inspired and internationally desired lifestyle and dining destination that is Nelson Mandela Square. For more information, visit www.nelsonmandelasquare.co.za.

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DINING DIVERSIONS VINEYARDS Steenberg Hotel, Cape Town www.steenbergfarm.com Established in 1682 as the Cape’s first registered farm, Steenberg is a haven of tranquillity situated just 30 minutes from the Cape Town city centre. The 24-room hotel is an ode to the fascinating Catharina Ras, who was granted the farm by Governor Simon van der Stel. The vineyards produce a range of much-loved wines such as Sauvignon Blanc and Méthode Cap Classique—some of the finest in South Africa. It’s these lush vineyards, and the mountains in the distance, that keep you company as you make your way through your meal at Bistro Sixteen82. Relaxed neo-bistro cuisine focuses on seasonal dishes, whether it’s breakfast, lunch or late-afternoon tapas. Equally spectacular—in both food and views—is Tryn Restaurant, named in memory of founder Catharina “Tryn” Ras. Expect a touch of Asian and Middle Eastern flair in the classically prepared food.

OCEAN

With its dramatic location above the Atlantic Ocean, flanked by the Twelve Apostles range and Table Mountain National Park, you can expect luxurious rooms and exquisite dining experiences at this award-winning 5-star hotel. And behold that magnificent sunset! The ocean view from Azure Restaurant is second to none, matched only by the feasts delivered to your dining table by executive chef Christo Pretorius and his “Kitchen Brigade”. The finest of organic ingredients are used in his Cape fusion dishes— from the delightful entrée selection to the mains to the decadent desserts. An extra-special experience is the Journey Through the Cape menu: an inspired five-course food and wine pairing of the very best that the Western Cape has to offer.

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The Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa, Cape Town www.12apostleshotel.com

PICTURE PERFECT

Bakubung offers a truly African experience in the tranquillity of the bush

estled in the vast expanses of the malaria-free Pilanesberg National Park, home to the beautiful Big 5 and a mere 2 hours from the hustle and bustle of the city of Johannesburg, is Bakubung Bush Lodge—the perfect location for leisure in an eco-friendly environment.

The property is made up of 100 hotel rooms, four conferencing venues, bar, restaurant, boma, spa, pool and gym, and offers various outdoor activities such as game drives and bush walks hosted by our passionate and highly qualified rangers. The hotel rooms are divided into various

categories catering for families, couples or even just friends looking for an adventure. Our Boma Bush Braai provides a magical setting for a truly African experience. With undercover seating for 240 people, it’s the picture-perfect location for a memorable dinner and an opportunity to share your stories. Surrounded by fire pits and lanterns, guests immerse themselves in the tranquillity of the bush, all while dining on authentic South African delicacies and taking in the true sounds of the African wilderness. If relaxation is what your heart truly desires, then our magnificent spa provides the ideal atmosphere in which to relax and recharge. With four treatment rooms and a truly unique outdoor massage area enveloped in nature, it’s most definitely worth a visit. In order to book your rejuvenating getaway, please contact us on bakubung@ legacyhotels.co.za or directly on 014 552 6000. Alternatively, for more information, visit www.legacyhotels.co.za.

AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 41

Bakubung

people of the hippo Experience true tranquility in the heart of the Pilanesberg National Park 100 Hotel Rooms 3 Conference Venues Game Drives Family friendly environment with fun activities for all ages

Please contact us on 014 552 6000 or bakubung@legacyhotels.co.za

www.LegacyHotels.com

www.LegacyLifestyle.co.za

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • RAIL JOURNEY

Moving pictures All aboard the luxury Blue Train for an unforgettable trip through some of South Africa’s most beautiful landscapes By Tania Griffin

AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 41

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • RAIL JOURNEY

“T

”T

here was a sudden jerk. Both men swung round to the window, looking out at the long, lighted platform as it slid slowly past them. The Orient Express had started on its three-days’ journey across Europe.” Ever since, as a wide-eyed youth, I read Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express—and in later years saw the movies based on the book— I’ve been fascinated by the notion of

being aboard a luxury train day and night, with staff at your beck and call as the locomotive winds its way through stunning landscapes, the clacking of the wheels on the rail an ever-present rhythm. And the passengers! Different faces, different accents, all mingling in this magnificent mobile setting. As one of Agatha’s book characters so eloquently puts it: “All around us are people, of all classes, of all nationalities, of all ages. For three

days these people, these strangers to one another, are brought together. They sleep and eat under one roof, they cannot get away from each other. At the end of three days they part, they go their several ways, never, perhaps, to see each other again.” So when I finally had an opportunity to experience such a rail adventure, on South Africa’s prestigious Blue Train, I couldn’t help but place myself in my very own movie… starring alongside a motley

AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 41

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • RAIL JOURNEY

cast of fellow travellers and liveried butlers, following a script written in the language of luxury, with gorgeous scene changes as we make our way to the dénouement—sans a murder, of course. We open in the VIP Lounge of the Blue Train at Cape Town Station, where the amiable butlers collect our luggage and we’re signed in for the journey to Pretoria. Greetings of “Guten Tag”, “G’day”, “Bonjour”, “Ciao” fill the lavishly appointed space where everyone has a comfy sit-down and a glass of sparkling wine with canapés while we await the train.

AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 41

A rumbling denotes the arrival of our steel carriage, and the butlers take their place up front, lining up like dutiful soldiers, white-gloved and ready to usher each passenger to his or her cabin with a smile and a flourish. Number 28 is to be my quarters for the next three days, a welcoming little abode of wood panelling and intricate gold patterns, with sofas that will be transformed into bed stands in the evening. The bathroom is snug yet elegant, with opulent marble finishes and the train’s signature gilded edges. My personal butler assures me she’ll be on hand for

anything I require, at any time of day. Quite evidently, the plot of this movie is luxury travel with tailored service. Even a walk down the passage, with its soft blue-and-gold carpeting, is a foretaste of what can be expected in the rest of the train: from the plush Lounge and Observation cars, to the stately dining and club carriages. The ubiquitous butlers are prompt with a greeting or an enquiry as to your requirement—whether that be an alcoholic beverage with snack platter, a clean towel or a laundry service. In the Lounge, with its perfectly large windows, the ‘moving pictures’ flit by as if on an old projector screen: from small hamlets to quaint stations, from verdant winelands to undulating mountains to arid Karoo. I’m lost in my reveries as the gradually sinking sun warms my face as I stare out onto the landscapes, strains of a fittingly dramatic song welling up to a crescendo inside my head. Dinner is a sophisticated affair, with ladies in their fine evening wear and men suited up to match. Bracelets and cufflinks shimmer in the subdued lighting of the Dining Car; bone china and crystal glasses clink in time to the dulcet tones of the live jazz saxophone. The cuisine is equally

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sumptuous, the on-board chefs expertly preparing signature dishes using the best of local ingredients: The fresh tastes of salmon, tiger prawns, ostrich fillet, kudu steak and other delicacies are lingering. Like the gentlemen on the Orient Express, passengers retire to the Club Car for a post-dinner cognac and Cuban cigar, and perhaps a game or two of backgammon or chess in the burnished wood surrounds. We share anecdotes from our home countries, and enjoy a convivial camaraderie. The script now calls for a pleasant night’s rest in the converted cabin, the sofas replaced by twin beds with inviting goose-down and percalecotton bedding, and muted lighting that brings one’s spirit to tranquillity. Outside is an inky-black backdrop, the stars piercing the firmament with their sharp illumination. The wheelson-rail soundtrack has a lulling effect, and soon it’s a curtain call to end a splendid first day aboard the Blue Train…

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Faint light spells the beginning of another day and the continuation of this masterful movie. We’re in the heart of farming country, with cattle-dotted fields and golden plantations as far as the eye can see. It’s these scenes that accompany our filling morning repast, and which I silently contemplate while sipping my Earl Grey tea. I picture Monsieur Hercule Poirot sitting across from me with a brioche bun and cup of chocolat chaud, similarly transfixed by the landscape. Sitting in the Observation Car provides further opportunity for solitary ruminations, or a peaceful hour with a book from the library, or simply whiling away the time until lunch by watching the train make its way along the tracks—a soothingly hypnotic diversion. Mid-afternoon intermission: We disembark in Kimberley for a short excursion to the Big Hole Museum. Despite the sweltering heat in this Northern Cape town that owes its fame

to the discovery of diamonds in the 1870s, it’s a pleasant and enlightening tour of the site, the large man-made cavity, and the reconstructed diamondrush Old Town. Back on the train, we imbibe on a delightful sherry in a keepsake glass before sitting down to a typical English high tea of sweet and savoury treats. (Glaringly absent, however, are the scones with jam and clotted cream. Tsk, tsk, what would Monsieur Poirot think about that…) Through the lounge windows the scenes change once more as we pass by a large lake inhabited by pink flamingos, scattered copses of trees, and sprawling settlements that creep from the edge of the railway tracks to the hills in the distance. On the third day, the end of my movie nears. I savour another breakfast, slowing down to appreciate once more the mesmerising panoramas outside, the countryside gradually becoming greener the closer we get to our destination. I decide to sit out the last few hours in my cabin, playing back all the scenes in my mind and letting the clickety-clack of the wheels and the gentle rocking of the train ease me into complete relaxation. For such a short journey, it’s been quite a marvellous experience aboard the Blue Train—one I would undertake again, perhaps to another destination such as the Kruger National Park or Victoria Falls. I can only imagine the moving pictures that await me there… The “African Safaris” editorial team thanks the Blue Train for its wonderful service and hospitality.

Explore the Routes MEMORIES THAT WILL STAY WITH YOU FOREVER

SPECIFICALLY PACKAGED to give the visitor an easy do-it-yourself option to explore the province. Incredible yearround experiences coupled with warm hospitality, the peace and tranquility offered by off-the-beaten track towns and villages as well as uninterrupted spaces, allow visitors to recharge and reconnect with loved ones. KOKERBOOM FOOD AND WINE ROUTE

RICHTERSVELD ROUTE

Named after the indigenous quiver tree, the Kokerboom Food and Wine Route stretches along the Gariep and includes towns like Upington, Kakamas, Keimoes, Augrabies, Marchand, Kanoneiland, Kenhardt and Riemvasmaak. The route will appeal to families as well as adventure and adrenaline seekers. Highlights include Augrabies Falls, Riemvasmaak hot springs, river rafting, fly fishing, kayaking and river cruises on the Orange River, numerous 4x4, hiking and MTB trails as well as excellent bird watching.

The Richtersveld is South Africa’s only mountain desert and the route travels along rugged gravel roads to quaint towns such as Eksteensfontein, Sendelingsdrift, Lekkersing, Kuboes and Sandrift. The more challenging 4x4 routes in the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park or in the Richtersveld World Heritage Area are best explored in a well-equipped SUV or bakkie. Pack comfortable hiking boots, extra water and guidebooks and set out along the 600 km Namaqua Eco 4x4 Route.

Foodies will appreciate the typical Northern Cape fare and produce available from coffee shops, road stalls and restaurants as well as wine tasting at cellars along the route. Accommodation ranges from luxurious guesthouses to farm and community stay-overs. Contact: +27 (0)84 244 4408, email: bookings@kokerboomroute.co.za KALAHARI RED DUNE ROUTE Discover the essence of the province in the heart of the Kalahari. Golden dunes, wide-open skies and flat-topped acacia trees epitomise the Kalahari Red Dune Route. Stretching from Upington right to the Namibian border, visitors traverse the villages of Ashkam, Groot and Klein Mier and Rietfontein. Adventure-loving families and adrenaline seekers can enjoy dune hikes at dawn, eagle- owl encounters, sand duning and surfing in the red sand, close encounters with meerkats and guided walks with the !Khomani San to rediscover the ancient wisdom, customs and folklore of this ancient tribe. Contact: +27 (0)82 492 3469, email: lochmaree@absamail.co.za

The Orange River presents a more leisurely pace with river rafting and the best wilderness fly-fishing in South Africa, while the entire Richtersveld is a mountain biker’s dream. Follow in the footsteps of a traditional goat herder and learn about the lives of the nomads. In the villages, the locals will entertain guests with storytelling and traditional Nama step dancing upon request. Contact +27 (0)78 874 1515, email: bokka.diepotlepel@gmail.com NAMAQUA COASTAL ROUTE The route includes hidden gems like Garies, Kamieskroon, Hondeklip Bay, Koiingnaas and Kleinzee. Dozens of adventure and leisure options are available, including the Namaqua National Park, nature reserves, hidden coastal hamlets and some of the most remote hiking and 4x4 trails imaginable. Go succulent sleuthing with a botanical guide, hike the Springbok Klipkoppie for a dose of Anglo-Boer War history, enjoy stargazing, explore the countless shipwrecks along the coast line or visit Namastat, a traditional matjies-hut village. Breath-taking scenes of the Atlantic Ocean with sightings of dolphins and whales combined with great vistas of mountains

and veld with endemic wildlife makes travelling in this area remarkable. Contact: +27 (0)27 877 0028, email: coast. of.diamonds@gmail.com KAROO HOOGLAND ROUTE This route covers the southern part of the province and the small Karoo towns of Nieuwoudtville, Calvinia, Williston, Sutherland, Fraserburg, Carnarvon, Loxton and Victoria West and forms the heart of the Great Karoo. Enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the Karoo with its wide open plains dotted with koppies (hills). The area was named by the Khoi and San people, who left their legacy as art on the rocks. Explore many unique experiences such as stargazing at the world’s largest astronomical observatory at Sutherland, the SKA radio telescopes in Carnarvon, Karoo architecture and corbelled houses, AngloBoer War sites, rock art, ancient Palaeo Surfaces, farm stays and great Karoo cuisine and hospitality. Contact: +27 (0) 72 018 7288, email: pieter.naude@hotmail.com

NorthernCapeTourism

@NorthernCapeSA

northerncapetourism

A RIDE DOWN MEMORY LANE

he Franschhoek Motor Museum is a world-class facility situated on the L’Ormarins Estate in the majestic Franschhoek Valley, one of South Africa’s earliest and most historical regions. The museum’s Cape Dutch architecture reflects the area’s origins. Set among some expansive lawns, four spacious display halls are air-conditioned and dehumidified to preserve the ageing machinery, and each holds 20 vehicles—all mounted on individual plinths that allow clear viewing—as well as motorcycles, bicycles and motoring memorabilia. Displays, often themed, are changed regularly.

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The birth of the museum’s collection took place in 1974 with the establishment of a transport museum at the Heidelberg railway station in Gauteng. It was an extension of one of numerous restoration and preservation projects initiated and backed by Dr Anton Rupert, South African entrepreneur, businessman and conservationist. Dr Rupert’s enthusiasm and appreciation of the automobile had led to an ongoing acquisition of a large number of vehicles, both individually and from other collections, which ultimately led to a decision in 2004 to relocate the museum’s contents to the family’s estate in Franschhoek. Sadly, Dr Rupert passed away in 2006, shortly before the new museum was opened on 7 May 2007, but his equally auto-enthusiast son Johann has continued to develop the museum’s eminence, even to the point of constructing a purposebuilt 2.5-kilometre road circuit on the L’Ormarins Estate to exercise the cars. From the rare to the exotic, from the innovative to the commercial, this superb collection of vehicles has been brought together not only from within South Africa but from around the globe. The museum’s diverse collection comprises close to 300 vehicles, of which some 200 are in

showroom condition, and cover more than 100 years of motoring—from a 1898 Beeston motor tricycle to a 2010 Ferrari 599 GTO. A 1903 Ford Model A is the oldest four-wheeler, and other notable exhibits include a 1915 Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, 1922 Isotta Fraschini, 1934 Austro-Daimler, Mercedes-Benz 540K Cabriolet B, 1957 Touring-bodied Aston Martin Spider, 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport, and Jody Scheckter’s 1974 Tyrrell 007-1 F1 car. Among other unique models are examples of South Africa’s only two totally home-grown marques—the GSM Dart/Flamingo and the Protea—and Nelson Mandela’s 2004 Charity 46664 BMW 760iL Security Edition. The Franschhoek Motor Museum’s ever expanding inventory rivals that of most similar private collections around the world and represents a living tribute to one family’s passion for the automobile. Last year, the international travel agency TripAdvisor awarded FMM a Traveller’s Choice Certificate of Excellence as “The very best of museums”. For video and photo galleries of the collection, monthly newsletters and any other information about the museum, log on to www.fmm.co.za.

FRANSCHHOEK MOTOR MUSEUM The Franschhoek Motor Museum offers visitors a special opportunity to look back at more than 100 years of motoring history with its unique and exciting collection of vehicles, motorcycles, bicycles and memorabilia in the magnificent setting of L’Ormarins. Across the length and breadth of Southern Africa, only one place can adequately portray the evolution of the automobile, The Franschhoek Motor Museum. Admission prices are: R80 adults | R60 pensioners | R60 motor club members | R40 children (3-12yrs) BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Visit our website for convenient online booking. No motor bikes. No pedestrian access from the gate. Maximum size of tour bus allowed is 22 seater, larger groups please book in advance.  l’ormarins wine estate |  +27 (0)21 874 9000 |  fmm@fmm.co.za |  www.fmm.co.za Follow us

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • WESTERN CAPE

C heers! A sampling of the must-visit farms and estates in the Cape Winelands

n the stormy corner of the continent, South Africa’s modern history began with a fledgling community—and a garden. Its raison d’être was to be a halfway stop between the East and the West, offering passing vessels refreshments, fruit and vegetables. However, something else rose very quickly to importance. Jan van Riebeeck, the Cape’s first commander, erroneously believed wine had a high vitamin C content, and that it would be a perfect remedy for the scurvy-afflicted sailors. He swiftly planted vines, and within seven years wine was already produced. These first vines were in the City Bowl near the Company Gardens, but the soil was far from ideal for viticulture and the wine was ghastly. Thankfully, Simon van der Stel arrived just more than 20 years later, bringing with him knowledge and

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expertise in winemaking. He combed through the Cape Town soil, analysing it in one-kilometre intervals, until he hailed Constantia as the “terroir ideal”. Groot Constantia was given to him as his homestead, and it became the first wine farm in South Africa, and indeed the southern hemisphere. Years on, and it’s an immense privilege to live in—and introduce visitors to—the infinite riches unique to this part of the country. Here’s a brief guide to four of the more noted wine-producing areas near Cape Town.

Constantia The leafy southern suburb of Constantia is home to Cape Town’s very own wine region, embracing nine farms on its official route. From 330-year-old heritage properties to the modern styling of the newer farms, this wine region can boast being the oldest in the southern hemisphere. The farms

of Constantia honour their inheritance with exceptional wines and breathtaking scenery—perfect tributes to the opulence of modern history. Foodies will revel in the various dining options available, including several top award-winning restaurants such as La Colombe at Silvermist Estate, The Greenhouse at The Cellars-Hohenort, and Chef’s Warehouse at Beau Constantia. My recommendations here include: the vine-laden panoramas at Constantia Glen; a modern tasting room experience at Beau Constantia; bubbly tasting at Steenberg Farm; a garden getaway at Eagles’ Nest; heritage tours at Groot Constantia Wine Estate; sipping the legendary Vin de Constance at Klein Constantia; a market experience at Constantia Uitsig Wine Estate; superlative dining at Buitenverwachting; and sampling organic wines at Silvermist.

By Jared Ruttenberg

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • WESTERN CAPE

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • WESTERN CAPE

Steenberg Farm

Delaire Graff Estate • Constantia Glen www.constantiaglen.com • Beau Constantia www.beauconstantia.com • Steenberg Farm www.steenbergfarm.com • Eagles’ Nest www.eaglesnestwines.com • Groot Constantia Wine Estate www.grootconstantia.co.za • Klein Constantia www.kleinconstantia.com • Constantia Uitsig Wine Estate uitsig.co.za • Buitenverwachting www.buitenverwachting.com • Silvermist Estate silvermistestate.co.za

Stellenbosch Van der Stel soon wanted to expand his vinicultural endeavours, and Stellenbosch became both the second

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town and wine-producing region in the country. A 45-minute drive from Cape Town and you’re in the heart of the “City of Oaks”, which has

Buitenverwagting

bragging rights to more than 170 wine farms, so you’ll never be short of variety. Enjoy a short stroll through the historical part of the city, with its al fresco dining and oak-lined streets. My recommendations are Tokara for views, Delaire Graff Estate for dining, Glenelly Estate for French-styled wines, Spier Wine Farm for picnics and Segway tours, Waterford Estate for wine and chocolate pairings, Villieria Wines for bubbly, and Simonsig Wine Estate for heritage. • Tokara www.tokara.com •D elaire Graff Estate www.delaire.co.za

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • WESTERN CAPE

Spier Wine Farm Fairview

• Glenelly Estate glenellyestate.com • Spier Wine Farm www.spier.co.za • Waterford Estate waterfordestate.co.za • Villiera Wines www.villiera.com • Simonsig Wine Estate www.simonsig.co.za

Spice Route Destination Waterford Estate

Paarl The third of the Cape settlements is Paarl, aptly named after early explorers likened the round granite rock that sits high above the town to that of a pearl. It’s a rather scenic drive up the mountain: Leave your car at the final car park, and if you’re not afraid of heights, use the chain to climb to the top for astounding views

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • WESTERN CAPE

experience, Boschendal for beautiful gardens, and Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons for a stellar array of both local and international wines. •D ieu Donné Vineyards www.dieudonnevineyards.com •H aute Cabrière www.cabriere.co.za •L e Lude Estate www.lelude.co.za •G rande Provence www.grandeprovence.co.za •L ynx Wine Estate lynxestate.com • Boschendal www.boschendal.com •R upert & Rothschild Vignerons www.rupert-rothschildvignerons. com

Boschendal

Article courtesy of South African Tourism (www.southafrica.net)

All you need to know Grande Provence of the town. My farm recommendations are Spice Route Destination for an eclectic tasting adventure, Fairview for cheeses and goat antics, Nederburg Wine Estate for a heritage visit, KWV Wine Emporium for an educational experience, and Landskroon Wines for a more intimate tasting option. • Spice Route Destination www.spiceroute.co.za • Fairview www.fairview.co.za • Nederburg Wine Estate www.nederburg.com • KWV Wine Emporium www.kwv.co.za • Landskroon Wines www.landskroonwines.com

Franschhoek Hailed by many as the food and wine capital of South Africa, this quaint village must surely be one of the most

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beautiful in the land. The town is securely nestled in a picturesque valley, flanked on three sides by Cape Fold Mountains. In winter, it feels as if you’ve stepped into a little European village, sans the snow. You’ll also hear a variety of foreign accents, as Franschhoek is a popular tourist stop. The name Franschhoek means “French quarter”, as the Cape government granted amnesty to French protestants who were fleeing religious persecution. Since they were renowned for being keen agriculturalists, they were given land, and so birthed the French influence that’s still characteristic of the area. A stop at the Huguenot Memorial Museum in town will help tell more of the story. My recommendations are Dieu Donné Vineyards for views, Haute Cabrière for an underground cellar tour, Le Lude Estate for bubbly tasting, Grande Provence for wine and art, Lynx Wine Estate for a boutique

How to get there Various routes lead to the Winelands; however, the most popular route is along the N1 from Cape Town toward Stellenbosch and beyond. Best time to visit Winter is a lovely time to visit the Cape Winelands, as everything goes green. During the rainy season, you can still expect many sunny days, but we advise to visit during spring and summer and enjoy outdoor dining and wine tasting. What’s happening There are many wine festivals held in the Cape every year. For more information, visit www. capewinelands.gov.za. Best buys Many wine estates offer accommodation specials during the winter months between May and October. And, of course, stock up on wine!

SHIMMY BEACH CLUB Cape Town’s Premier Ocean-front Dining and Lifestyle Venue Situated in a spectacular location, with a breath-taking backdrop of Cape Town’s iconic Table Mountain and vast ocean views, Shimmy Beach Club is a destination with endless opportunity for laid-back luxury and indulgence. Located in the V&A Waterfront, Shimmy Beach Club boasts an elegant 220-seater restaurant, beach bars, two pools, a kids’ play area, a nightclub, and a private beach, making it the perfect restaurant venue for family meals, lavish lunches and late nights.

www.shimmybeachclub.com | 021 200 7778 | info@shimmybeachclub.co.za 12 South Arm Road, V&A Waterfront 8002, Cape Town PR I VATE BE ACH

R E S TAUR A NT

CLUB

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • EASTERN CAPE

BAY OF PLENTY

Nelson Mandela Bay attracts thousands of visitors each year to its glorious beaches, pristine wildlife reserves, poignant heritage sites and more

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • EASTERN CAPE

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • EASTERN CAPE

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Horizon Bay, Seaview, Sardinia Bay, Schoenmakerskop, Cape Recife Nature Reserve, Groendal Nature Reserve Colchester and the Sundays River Mouth areas, to name a few. So, if you want to experience the splendour, the beauty, the spirit, the freedom, the wildlife, the culture, the openness and the friendliness of the only place named after the world’s greatest statesman, Nelson Mandela

Bay is just the place for a wonderful getaway. And your passport to discovering the locals’ best-kept secrets is the Nelson Mandela Bay Pass. This smartcard provides you with free admission to a variety of attractions and activities in the Bay including, among others, museums, game reserves, scuba diving, art galleries, sightseeing tours and more. It also

Donkin Reserve and Pyramid

ituated on the southeastern tip of Africa, Nelson Mandela Bay is named after former South African president, freedom fighter and Nobel Peace Prize winner Nelson Rholihlahla Mandela, and comprises the cities of Port Elizabeth, Uitenhage and Despatch. It boasts 40 kilometres of magnificent golden beaches washed by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. This breathtaking seashore boasts pristine beaches—and along with the excellent accommodation facilities, the Bay lures thousands of visitors annually. The area has warm summers with a very temperate humidity level, while winters are mild and pleasant. The Bay offers a broad range of attractions: from history and heritage, to ecotourism, beaches, entertainment and shopping, business, conferencing and wildlife viewing. With a population of 1.3 million people, it’s a melting pot of cultures—the first meeting point of the Khoisan, Xhosa, English, Dutch and German people in South Africa. Scenic areas to visit include Blue

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • EASTERN CAPE

Bloukrans Bridge Hop-on Beer Route

ACTIVITIES & SIGHTSEEING The Donkin Reserve and Pyramid Donkin Reserve, overlooking the city of Port Elizabeth, was proclaimed an open space in perpetuity by Sir Rufane Donkin. It includes a stone pyramid monument with a touching inscription erected by Sir Donkin in memory of his late wife, Elizabeth, after whom the city was named; as well as palm-lined walkways and benches. The lighthouse was built in 1861. Pass holders get free entry into the Donkin Lighthouse Port Elizabeth Hop-on Beer Route Hop on the bus for a three-hour visit to three manufacturers of craft beers: Dockside Brewery, Bridge Street Brewery and Beer Yard. Meet the brewmasters, view and discuss the manufacturing process, and taste some of the beers along with food or snacks. Pass holders receive a 17% discount on the tour fee Face Adrenalin The view from Bloukrans Bridge captures all the majesty and tranquility of the river valley below.

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entitles you to some great discounts and offers flexibility, convenience and variety. Simply present your NMB Pass on arrival at participating operators to receive your benefits. Pass products change regularly, so consult the website www.nelsonmandelabaypass. co.za for updates. There are two types of passes: 5-in-1 NMB Pass – This pass is valid for three months and allows you access to any five offers of attractions and activities. You also qualify for transport discounts.

NMB Unlimited Itinerary Pass – This is valid for 1 day, 2 days, 3 days or 7 days, depending on the period you choose. Passes can be purchased at any of the Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism Visitor Information Centres as well as at participating shopping centres, game reserves, museums, accommodation establishments and travel agents. See www. nelsonmandelabaypass.co.za for a comprehensive list. Here are just a few of the products and offers available to pass holders:

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • EASTERN CAPE

Bloukrans is Africa’s highest bridge and home to the world’s highest bungee jump from a bridge. Secured in a full body harness, and using pendulum bungee technology, you’ll enjoy the smoothest, most comfortable bungee jump possible. Pass holders receive 10% off the jump price or a free bridge walk

WILDLIFE & NATURE Addo Elephant National Park

Discover the abundance of wildlife in this park that proudly conserves the Big 7 (elephant, rhino, lion, buffalo, leopard, whale and great white shark) within its vast borders stretching from the rugged plains of the Karoo to the untamed coastline. Located only 40km from Port Elizabeth, it offers the best elephant viewing in the country. Visit any day of the year on a day trip or for an affordable overnight getaway. Pass holders receive a free day visit

Amakhala Hlosi Game Lodge Hlosi Game Lodge in the Amakhala Game Reserve is home to myriad animal species including elephant, lion, buffalo, white and black rhino, cheetah, giraffe and zebra, over 15 species of antelope, and an abundance of birdlife and beautiful flora. Pass holders receive a 15% discount on a full-day safari Alan Tours View springbok, zebra, red hartebeest, the tiny grysbok and rich birdlife in the Cape Recife Nature Reserve. Explore the ancient history of the Khoikhoi inhabitants, learn about the endangered African penguin at the Samrec Penguin Rehabilitation Centre, and experience the history of one of the first lighthouses in the country. Pass holders receive 20% discount on a Guided Tour of Cape Recife & Grysbok Nature Reserve, and a tour of the Cape Recife Lighthouse and Samrec

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Addo Elephant National Park 48

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Mohair South Africa Inspired by various natural elements and the story of the angora goat, the striking mohair industry headquarters in Walmer, Port Elizabeth pays homage to the past, present and

Amakhala Hlosi Game Lodge

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • EASTERN CAPE

Cape Recife VW Auto Pavilion future of mohair: a locally produced and luxurious fibre that has its brand firmly rooted in South Africa. Pass holders receive a free mohair gift Red Location Museum The international award-winning Red Location Museum is named after a series of corrugated iron barracks and

cottages to which the majority of Port Elizabeth’s blacks, coloureds, Indians and Chinese were forcefully moved in 1903. These barracks and cottages, rusted a deep red colour, were home to many political and cultural leaders, and the birthplace to momentous social movements during the apartheid era. Pass holders receive free entry

VW AutoPavilion Volkswagen South Africa’s ultramodern Expo and VW Heritage Centre is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Uitenhage. It has various interactive exhibits including edutainment for youngsters. Pass holders receive free entry

A SOURCE OF INSPIRATION

he Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Museum is home to a comprehensive collection of South African art and craft, and specialises in the art of the Eastern Cape Province. Families, tourists, organisations, schools and groups may come and browse the exhibitions or book guided tours, school art workshops, holiday workshops and special workshops. The Art Museum also offers the service of an art reference library. You may view current exhibitions and events and browse the Art Museum’s collection of over 8 000 artefacts online through its website. Entrance is free, except for events with advertised fees.

Contact details Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Museum Address: 1 Park Drive, Central, Port Elizabeth 6001 Telephone: 041 506 2000

E-mail: artmuseum@mandelametro.gov.za Website: www.artmuseum.co.za Follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

Museum opening times Weekdays: 09h00 – 17h00 We are open on the second Saturday of the month and the last Sunday of the month from 9h30 to 12h30.

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Nature’s BOUNTY

Verdant hills, majestic mountains, shimmering coasts… Here are the top 10 natural attractions in the KwaZulu-Natal province

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • KWAZULU-NATAL

uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park This World Heritage Site comprises a spectacular mountain range that stretches for over 200 kilometres, offering a nature lover’s smorgasbord of majestic mountains, valleys, waterfalls and streams to explore. Visit the 900m high Tugela Falls, or hike the Mnweni Valley, view Cathedral Peak Valley and the Rock Art Centre at Didima, then take a visit to Champagne Valley where Champagne Castle and Cathkin Peak dominate. A must is Injisuthi Valley, which features South Africa’s highest peak, and Giants Castle with its famous San paintings. There’s also a choice of three game reserves close by, one of which has the Big Five. Explore the Anglo-Boer battlefields like Spioenkop, Fort Durnford and Fere, the place of Winston Churchill’s capture during the Anglo-Boer War. To the south, the freestanding basalt block of Giants Castle looms large, clouds streaming off its flanks. Just out of sight is another one of the Drakensberg’s highest peaks, the delightfully named Old Woman Grinding Corn. The Drakensberg is immensely important in terms of culture. Almost every rocky overhang has San rock art, with an estimated 35 000 paintings in all. Some have said this mountain range is the greatest outdoor art gallery in the world.

iSimangaliso Wetland Park Another World Heritage Site, this park extends from Kosi Bay in the north (close to the Mozambican border) to Cape St Lucia in the south. A mix of five different ecosystems, this wetland wilderness boasts a wealth of biodiversity and is home to crocodiles, hippos as well as the famous loggerhead and leatherback sea turtles. The coastal forest region (accessible only by 4x4) encompasses the pristine beaches of Mabibi, Island Rock, Rocktail Bay and Black Rock, where you can enjoy snorkelling and diving. South Africa’s largest freshwater

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • KWAZULU-NATAL

celebrated game parks, it covers over 96 000ha and is home to the Big Five, many antelope species and incredible bird life. The park is also worldrenowned for its conservation of both endangered rhino species, the square-mouthed white rhino and hook-lipped black rhino.

iSimangaliso Wetland Park

The Sardine Run

lake, Lake Sibaya, also forms part of the park. Formed against thick, forested coastal dunes, its clear waters support the province’s second-largest hippo and crocodile populations. Further along the coast lies Sodwana Bay, a top diving destination. More than 1 200 fish species have been recorded along its bountiful reefs, including the coelacanth, rediscovered in Jesser Canyon in 2000 after it was widely believed to be extinct. The coastline of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park is the only remaining major nesting site in Africa where loggerhead and leatherback turtles still lay their eggs, and it’s a sight that should find its way onto everyone’s bucket list. Then there’s the uMkhuze Ecosystem, which is a 38 500-hectare bird lover’s paradise that supports 420 species. Among the birds here, you can also spot leopard, black rhino, white rhino, elephant, giraffe, wild dog, cheetah, hyena and various antelope. Don’t forget the sand forests, thornvelds, open savannahs and welcoming beaches of False Bay, while

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Charters Creek is a wildlife haven for larger game species such as elephant, buffalo, rhino, leopard, giraffe and tsessebe.

Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve One of Africa’s oldest and most

Sardine Run

Known as the “Greatest Shoal on Earth”, the annual Sardine Run along KwaZulu-Natal’s South Coast is a sight to see. As winter settles in to South Africa, a magical migration occurs—the sardines have arrived! Why these large shoals of sardine swim to the KZN coast remains a mystery. And yet, each year it’s the same: Starting in May, millions of small, shiny fish make the one-way journey from the cold waters of the Cape to the warmer tides, colouring the shoreline silver as they convene close to the coast. This marine spectacle means scores of fishermen join the sharks, gamefish, marine mammals and birds to gorge themselves on the shimmering mass of tiny silver fish. The Sardine Run is a seasonal delight that’s popular among local and international visitors. It’s a phenomenon certainly worth experiencing—whether

Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • KWAZULU-NATAL

Sodwana Bay Located along the province’s Elephant Coast, Sodwana Bay is characterised by pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters and numerous reefs. With rock pools to one side and a sweeping bay to the other, this is the preferred destination of deep-sea fishermen, scuba divers, snorkelling fans and swimmers.

Midlands Sodwana Bay

Oribi Gorge

it’s from land, the ocean surface or even underwater (arguably the most spectacular way to view it).

The Midlands In 1985, a group of potters and weavers in the Drakensberg area came together to showcase their arts and crafts. Today the area is known as the Midlands Meander and stretches from Pietermaritzburg to the uKhahlambaDrakensberg National Park. The region has been likened to a typical English countryside, with its rolling hills, green lawns, streams and rustic atmosphere. Picture-perfect postcard scenery and fresh air attract visitors needing a break from city life on weekends and over the holidays. The Midlands Meander is considered South Africa’s best artisan crafts route. While there, shop for pottery and ceramics, woven goods, furniture, rugs, stained glass and leatherwork. There are also kids’ toys, kites and one-of-a-kind art pieces. The area is also known as a foodie destination; local cheeses, chocolate, wines, a brewery and a brilliant selection of award-winning restaurants

can be found here. After all the eating, drinking and shopping, you can also get some exercise. If you like being up in the air, choose the canopy tour, go ziplining or take a hot-air balloon over the spectacular Drakensberg. If you prefer being down below, there’s quad biking, golfing, fishing, mountain bike trails, horse riding and incredible hikes.

Oribi Gorge is as famous for its dramatic scenery as it is for its exhilarating wilderness activities. If you’re in KZN and you’re not only craving adventure but all the beautiful scenery that comes with it too, then you need to go to Oribi Gorge. Here, gorge swings, abseiling, mountain biking and white-water rafting come standard with any visit. This spectacular gorge was created over millions of years as the Umzimkulwana River scythed its way through the rugged landscape. It’s home to more than 300 bird species and features spectacular scenery including overhanging rocks and horseshoe river bends. When it comes to abseiling in South Africa, few sites can match the rush offered by Oribi Gorge’s Wild Abseil. At 110m high, it’s one of the world’s premier natural commercial abseils.

Oribi Gorge

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • KWAZULU-NATAL

Valley of a Thousand Hills

Tugela Gorge KZN National Botanical Garden

The Wild Abseil also includes the Wild Swing and the Wild Slide. The Wild Swing is the highest in the world. It entails a heart-stopping leap off the top of the waterfall that leaves you swinging more than 100m to the gorge below. The Wild Slide is slightly less hair-raising and involves sliding 160m above the valley along a 120m-long steel cable across the front of the falls—the perfect opportunity to soak up the beauty of the gorge with the best views in the house. The Oribi Gorge also features some beautiful hikes, ranging from easy 1km trails to more challenging 9km treks. With grade three to five rapids, the Umzimkulu River provides great white-water rafting conditions.

KwaZulu-Natal National Botanical Garden This botanical garden in the city of Pietermaritzburg was established in the early 1870s with the aim of propagating and conserving rare and endangered indigenous plants. Apart from domestic varietals, the garden also boasts camphor trees, giant figs, magnolias and swamp cypresses. More than 150 bird species have been attracted by the profusion of flora.

With its seemingly thousands of rolling grassy hills, this verdant valley scoured by the Umgeni River is home to the Zulu. A visit offers so much for travellers: history, culture and curios; retail therapy; wildlife tours; adventure sports; hiking trails; and excellent restaurants—all the while meandering through the magnificent scenery. For generations, the Zulu have lived in and around the valley, and no visit is complete without a trip to one of the Zulu cultural villages, where tourists can gain insight into the culture and traditions of one of the largest ethnic groups in South Africa. Traditional dancing, cultural shows and curios are showcased at Phezulu Safari Park, while crafts and curios are sold at the 1000 Hills Arts and Crafts Village. The Inchanga Choo-Choo, a steam train run by Umgeni Steam Railway, departs from Kloof Station on the last Sunday of every month and winds through the magnificent scenery of the valley to Inchanga, where travellers can enjoy a picnic lunch with pony rides and a jumping castle for the kids, before returning to Kloof. The nature reserves of Assagay, Springside and Krantzkloof Gorge offer respite from the bustle of the modern urban lifestyle, but the adventurous may prefer paragliding or rock climbing at Inchanga and Monteseel, or mountain biking at Giba Gorge Mountain Bike Park.

Valley of a Thousand Hills

Tugela Gorge

The Tugela Gorge lies below the source of the mighty Tugela River in the Drakensberg. A popular one-day hike takes you from the lower reaches of the river along contour paths right to the head of the gorge and up a chain ladder to the top of the escarpment. The view from the top is spectacular. Article courtesy of South African Tourism (www.southafrica.net)

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Battlefields Tour of KZN.

Join us on a fascinating journey to iconic battlefields of the Anglo Zulu and Anglo Boer Wars. Walk in the footsteps of history on these sites of conflict as expert guides bring the events to life. Stay in superb lodges. Day 1 5 August 21 October Arrive at Durban airport and meet your guide. Travel to Dundee. After settling into your accommodation spend the evening at Kwakunje Cultural village for an evening of dance, music and a traditional Zulu meal. Day 2 6 August 22 October Accompanied by experienced and knowledgeable guides from Dundee, travel by bus via Malonjeni and the site of the First World War soldier settlement scheme, to Nqutu and then view Isandlwana battlefield from the Nqutu heights. This is the commanding position from where the Zulu commanders controlled the battle. Visit St Vincents Mission church and the museum and then proceed onto the battlefield. Feel the atmosphere and experience history come alive as you follow your guide across this blood drenched battlefield and on to the Mangeni gorge. After lunch at Isandlwana Lodge drive to Rorkes Drift en route hearing the tale of the skirmish at Sihayo's kraal on 11 January and the story of Henry Harford and his beetle collecting. Rorke's Drift – the name echoes down through history. Relive this epic battle as your guide walks and talks you around the battlefield in the afternoon,: view the walled British cemetery and the Zulu mass burial sites. Overnight Rorkes drift area. Day 3 7 August 23 October Visit the memorial to Lt Coghill and Melvill, at Fugitives Drift overlooking the Buffalo river. On your way back to Dundee stop for a visit an incredible rock overhang and the San/Bushman paintings. After lunch on this lovely farm we will visit Fort Pine built in 1878 to defend the Natal frontier. Overnight Dundee. Day 4 8 August 24 October Start your morning with a game drive at Ingudlane lodge and then a guided walk through Dundee's past as you follow elements of the Dundee Heritage Trail – if only the buildings could talk and not just your guide! Anglo Boer War, coal mining, Mohandas Gandhi, the Rev Bailey – a kaleidoscope of history, events and exciting tales and history come to life. A surprise awaits along this trail. Then to the jewel in Dundee – Talana Museum. After an introduction to the museum you are free to view exhibits that appeal to you. However, there will be guided talks through the Anglo Boer and Great War exhibits. A wonderful buffet lunch in the Miners Rest Restaurant at the museum forms part of today’s experience. Overnight Dundee. Day 5 9 August 25 October We stop at Elandslaagte battlefield en route to Ladysmith. and a visit to the Anglican Church to view the memorial tablets and Siege Museum. This afternoon we visit the battle of Spioenkop, described by Winston Churchill as “an acre of massacre”. The Lancashire Brigade took such casualties there that there is now a “kop” end on the football fields of Anfield, Bolton, Blackburn and Plymouth Argyll to commemorate the event. And three future world leaders were in the vicinity – Churchill himself, Louis Botha and Mohandas Gandhi. Overnight Spioenkop area. Day 6 10 August 26 October This morning we leave to drive though the hills where so many battles were fought to relieve Ladysmith. We view the site where the armoured train was derailed on 10 November 1899. It was here that Winston Churchill was taken prisoner of war. And then on the Durban airport for your return flight home and unfortunately the end of a memorable tour.

Depart and end Durban 5-10 August Tickets to Soundwave Dundee, annual music festival included . 21-26 October Saturday 24th has a change to the itinerary - includes tickets for Talana Live .

Rates include Luxury lodges and guest houses. 5 Nights accommodation, full board. Transport in luxury air conditioned coach Specialist battlefield guides. Talks and tours.

For bookings and further information contact Battlefields of KZN pammcfadden1@gmail.com

Dundee Tourism info@tourdundee.co.za

Contact us for the price of this exclusive tour. Minimum 20 persons per tour. Rates exclude Travel to Durban/Dundee Beverages, personal items. Gratuities

A number of day tours are available and may be combined to suit your requirements. We also tailor make to suit you. www.tourdundee.co.za www.talana.co.za www. battlefieldsroute.co.za

ZULULAND’S HIDDEN GEM Set on the magnificent Elephant Coast, experience spectacular accommodation near South Africa’s oldest Game Reserve at the 3-star ANEW Hotel Hluhluwe – the ultimate South African holiday destination. The Hotel offers a wide variety of affordable holiday accommodation including a 5-star self-catering safari lodge for a true bush experience. The Hotel also offers packages for corporate and government guests with a wide range of intimate conferencing venues in the Zululand area. Located 16km outside Hluhluwe-imfolozi park, the luxurious five-star self-catering lodge is separate from the ANEW Hotel Hluhluwe building and consists of five separate air-conditioned bedrooms all with their own en-suite bathrooms. The Idyllic African Centrepiece is nestled between the Hluhluwe Game Reserve – home to the Big Five, and the Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park, a world heritage site. Here you will experience the wild nature of Africa, rejoice in the luxury and revel in the friendly warmth of one of Africa’s most welcoming hotels. hluhluweres@anewhotels.co.za www.anewhotels.com +27 (0) 35 562 4000

Camping and Caravanning

Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife offers an exciting world of natural splendour. Take the opportunity to discover mountain grandeur and pristine beaches, valley bushveld and densely wooded ravine gorges, to cascading waterfalls and forested pathways, acacia thornveld and ancient tracks through the wilderness, forested dunes and brilliant coral reefs. With custodianship of over one hundred protected areas throughout KwaZulu-Natal, you can satisfy your every desire for discovery, adventure or relaxation in some of South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exciting and scenic natural surroundings...

Awaken your senses...

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Camping and caravanning is becoming a cost effec-

tive means of accessing the magnificent diversity of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nature reserves. More and more people are discovering the freedom of packing a tent or caravan and taking to the road to discover Africa's remote and exciting places, away from the trappings and fast pace of modern life. Here you can get close to the natural world while creating your own comfort and experience.

dour of a cave in the shadow of Hodgson's Peaks at Cobham to the scenic Midlands at Midmar or Chelmsford where water sports are the main activities. From our wildlife parks such as Mkhuze or Ndumo with spectacular game-viewing and birdwatching, through to the coast at Sodwana or Cape Vidal for fishing and diving, this is your time to experience the alluring spirit and soul of Africa.

Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife offers a range of beautiful camping and caravan sites in many of its reserves and resorts. Start your journey of discovery and enjoy our facilities while you explore the natural wonders of KwaZulu-Natal.

Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife prides itself in making its facilities available for all to enjoy whether it be hiking, fishing, biking, birding, game-viewing, walking, swimming, diving, learning and exploring, or just simply resting and relaxing in magnificent natural surroundings, there is something for everyone to do.

From the high Maloti-Drakensberg Park mountains where you have the choice of comfortable sites in the Mahai Campsite at Royal Natal or the primitive splen-

We welcome you to experience and enjoy the full wonderful natural diversity our beautiful Province has to offer.

w w w . k z n w i l d l i f e . c o m

T: +27(0) 33 845 1000 E: bookings@kznwildlife.com Online book ing: bookings.kznwildlife.com

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Ezemvelokznwildlife

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • LIMPOPO

BUSHVELD PARADISE Answer the call of the wild at Tintswalo Lapalala, a luxury tented camp that blends seamlessly into the surrounding environment By Hayley Kannemeyer

he idea for creating the pristine Lapalala Wilderness Reserve was birthed in 1981, when Dale Parker and Clive Walker looked out over the Palala River and fell in love with the sheer untouched beauty of the landscape. No doubt they were overwhelmed by this sight, as the name Palala is derived from the Sotho word lephalale, which aptly means “one that inundates”. Being the avid conservation leaders they were, the two men instigated a

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plan of action on how to develop the area—preserving its natural splendour while showcasing the surrounding wilderness, all the while maintaining a very low environmental impact. It was also their intention to set up a wilderness school here to teach future generations from all walks of life about the importance of conserving our natural heritage. You’ll find this piece of bushveld paradise about 3.5 hours north of Johannesburg in the Waterberg region of the Limpopo province. The long

road trip is absolutely worth the journey, despite the numerous tollgates; the passing scenery and quaint towns en route to the East Gate of the reserve are sufficient to pique your interest. After a warm welcome at the entrance, it’s another 30-minute drive in a game-viewing vehicle to the main lodge camp, and this time the images that greet you are much more engrossing: Lanky giraffe were the very first animals we spotted in this 50 000-hectare expanse of green-and-brown mottled plains that

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • LIMPOPO

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • LIMPOPO

forms part of the Unesco-declared Waterberg Biosphere. Another welcome drink was offered on arrival, refreshing and crisp to bring some relief from the soaring temperatures of the day. Mrs Gaye Corbett, one of the owners of the Tintswalo Property Group, made us feel right at home and regaled us with the tale of how Tintswalo Lapalala morphed from an open piece of land into the stunning destination we were about to experience. Our first adventure began as soon as we’d each checked into our superior luxury tent. And by ‘tent’ I don’t mean a simple

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canvas structure in which you’re accustomed to camping—this is indeed a superior, luxurious structure. All travel within the reserve is done in the camp’s game-drive vehicles because the main aim is to maintain the rugged and natural atmosphere, minimalising all major changes to road surfaces. There are over 800 kilometres of sandy roads within the reserve, allowing for many hours of exploration. Furthermore, the entire reserve operates on solar energy— leaving the pristine landscape free of unsightly electric pylons, with no outsourced energy supplies.

Dusk brought to life a plethora of wildlife, ranging from giraffe to wildebeest, rhino to shrub hare, and everything in between. We had the opportunity to drive over the river that started this whole endeavour, the shimmering Palala—stretching along for 28km through the reserve, providing hydration for a large percentage of the resident wildlife. There are many activities on offer at the reserve, one being a river cruise on a barge. With champagne in hand, we toasted the beauty of the African sunset before encountering a family of hippopotamus. Daddy bull issued a mild warning to keep a fair distance from his young, which we respected immediately. As if in gratitude, he flashed us the broadest smile (or was that just a bored yawn?), giving us a peek at the ugliest teeth in the animal kingdom, I believe. We viewed the family antics a while longer before making our way back down the river. Once off the barge as evening set in, we were guided to a glade all magically illuminated with lanterns—revealing a spread of familiar, and not so familiar, dishes to tantalise our taste buds before our main meal. Guide Richard elaborated on the staple foods of the

Luxury Accommodation â&#x20AC;˘ Five Star Conference Facilities Eco-Education & Spa Facilities Community Development

A dose of relaxation & excitement...

Central Reservations for Convention & Individual bookings: Tel: +27 (0) 11 466 8715 Fax: +27 (0) 86 685 8816 E-mail: taugame@mweb.co.za www.taugamelodge.com

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • LIMPOPO

for a swim in the rock pool. It’s possible to go rafting down the Palala River, but there was a fear of crocodiles at the time of our visit, so I was quite satisfied with swimming in the safety of the overhanging boulders. A waterside picnic rounded off another great day in the wilderness. Other activities at Tintswalo Lapalala include hikes out to the Bushman rock paintings dating back to approximately 8000 BC, bass and fly-ﬁshing in the mountain pools and rapids, tagging of the resident wild dog pack (the last free-roaming pack in South Africa), spa treatments on the banks of the river, and sleep-outs for an up-close-and-personal encounter with the bush under the star-filled sky. Needless to say, it was a fantastic wilderness experience in a sustainably maintained lodge with superior customer service and luxury amenities—all within a breathtakingly gorgeous setting. The “African Safaris” editorial team thanks Tintswalo Lapalala for its warm hospitality. local Venda and Pedi people, introducing us to mopane worms, tiny dried fish, beans and other traditional delicacies. I was very proud of myself, having tried three deep-fried mopane worms for the very first time. Not exactly tasting like chicken, they had a rough texture similar to the ox liver that I’ve always enjoyed. Quite palatable (after a few sips of something cold to wash it down). Back at the main camp, Chef William and his team prepared a sumptuous feast for us to enjoy before retiring for the evening. The cuisine was all beautifully prepared to perfection, with many of the ingredients and garnishes sourced from the camp’s very own self-sustaining herb garden and vegetable patch. The tent I was to call home for my stay had an outside area complete with open-air shower, for an invigorating spray under the night sky. I tried it out just before midnight, but fair warning: Moths also enjoy cleaning themselves in the middle of the night!

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Tintswalo Lapalala’s seven luxury tented suites and two family suites are settled along the edge of an open plain, with unmatched views over a busy waterhole and further across the Waterberg. All units have private plunge pools and beautiful outdoor bath areas, and are named in honour of the tribes that roamed Africa centuries ago, such as Himba and Maasai. Suites are linked to each other and to the main lodge by raised wooden walkways. We had an early start to the following day, departing on an excursion to locate more animals in the reserve. We tried tracking a male lion, following paw prints and visiting all his usual haunts, but with no luck. We encountered rhino, giraffe, various breeds of antelope, and large families of warthog always seeming to be on a mission somewhere. A lovely al fresco breakfast awaited us back at the main camp, and was the ideal respite before another adventure. Off to the river once more, this time

All you need to know • Tintswalo Lapalala is located in the Lapalala Wilderness Reserve near Melkrivier Road in Vaalwater. Detailed directions are available on the website: tintswalo.com/ lapalala/gamelodge. • No private vehicles are allowed inside the reserve, to help minimise human impact. • Children of all ages are welcome at the lodge, but they must be supervised at all times. • Transfer departure times from the East Gate to the camp, and vice versa, are set as follows: –Check-in guests to arrive at East Gate between 12h30 and 13h00. –Check-out guests to depart the main lodge at 11h00. For reservations, telephone +27 21 773 0900 or email reservations@tintswalo.com.

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • MPUMAL ANGA

YOUR GATEWAY TO

adventure Explore the pristine wilderness by day, relax in comfort by night— this Kruger Park hotel will delight any safari enthusiast

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • MPUMAL ANGA

Outdoor Pool and Deck

African Spa

Outdoor Patio

eloved by generations of South Africans, and on the bucket list of international travellers, the Kruger National Park is South Africa’s top wildlife attraction—worldrenowned for its spectacular natural landscapes and exhilarating Big 5 game viewing.

Since its days in the late 19th century as a Government Wildlife Park, proclaimed by South African Republic President Paul Kruger to control hunting and protect the remaining animals, the Kruger today is one of the largest game reserves in Africa, covering an area of 19 485 square kilometres over the provinces of

Limpopo and Mpumalanga in northeastern South Africa—extending 360km from north to south and 65km from east to west. Part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, Kruger is linked with the Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe, and the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique. It is also part of the Kruger to

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SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • MPUMAL ANGA

Lapa Restaurant

Larger King Guest Room Canyons Biosphere, an area designated by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation as an International Man and Biosphere Reserve. This wonder of nature has no fewer than six ecosystems—baobab sandveld, Lebombo knobthorn marula bushveld, mixed acacia thicket, combretum silver cluster-leaf, woodland on granite, and riverine forest—that provide sanctuary for an impressive number of species: 336 trees, 49 fish, 34 amphibians, 114 reptiles, 507 birds and 147 mammals. Kruger also harbours great secrets in its various bushman rock paintings as well as archaeological sites found at Masorini village and Thulamela Hills. Masorini mesmerises with its stone walls, grinding stones, potsherds, 19th century foundries and implements dating back to the Stone Age. The stone ruins of Thulamela are thought to be the remnants of a Late Iron Age settlement, while further remains such as gold beads, charcoal, ostrichshell beads, perforated ornamental cowrie shells, clay spindle whorls, and ivory and metal rings have also been excavated. The park is mainly a self-drive destination, but there are guided tour operators available to help you make the most of your safari. Excellent infrastructure includes picnic sites, rest camps, waterholes and hides, while luxury lodges provide top-class accommodation and knowledgeable rangers who know the bush like the back of their hand. One such accommodation establishment is Protea Hotel by

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Marriott© Kruger Gate, named for its proximity to the park entrance near the banks of the iconic Sabie River. This beautiful lodge-style hotel in the middle of the bushveld has undergone a comprehensive rebuild of its amenities, following an investment of R100 million. Already a jewel in the hospitality brand’s portfolio, Kruger Gate now has an even brighter shine. With its soaring walkways and elevated decks creating a wonderful treetop ambiance, guests can enjoy classic Big 5 safaris in the Kruger National Park with all the comforts of an upmarket hotel experience: Adventure into the pristine wilderness by day, relax in comfort in the hotel’s contemporary offerings by night. You’ll be ensconced in a tranquil riverine woodland of immense African trees, while being serenaded by the resident birds and wildlife. And who’s that little visitor out in the distance?

A gentle nyala going about his grazing… Thanks to its recent refurbishments, the hotel now offers even more accommodation options among its 145 rooms—all resplendent in their Africa-inspired décor with en-suite bathrooms, air-conditioning, in-room dining, satellite television and free Wi-Fi (yes, you can update your Instagram account to your heart’s content). Corporate groups can enjoy an exclusive, private experience of the hotel and the surrounding Kruger from their executive suite; while the presidential suite’s expansive living space includes a deck and plunge pool, an open-plan 10-seater room for dining and meetings, plus a private kitchen service with butler. What’s more, those in the presidential suite are afforded private game-viewing safaris at their leisure. And when it’s time for business, the

Library and Internet Station

SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • NORTHERN CAPE

Lapa Restaurant revitalised conference and event facilities will provide everything you require for a successful meeting. Delegates flying in by helicopter? No problem, the hotel’s helipad awaits their arrival in style. For those more keen on escaping the computers and whiteboards, the hotel’s dedicated Safari Office will help you organise the perfect day out in the African wild: whether you opt for a self-drive excursion or guided vehicle tour of the best game-rich regions in this southern part of the Kruger National Park. Each day will be different, and each adventure memorable. (Don’t forget to make a quick detour to the new specialty coffee shop for a grab-and-go muffin, sandwich or pastry to take along on your trip.) On those lazy days when you simply want to take things easy, the quiet zone of the Pool Bar will beckon

with its soft-green canopy of colossal jackalberry, marula and acacia trees. Either lap around in the stunning infinity pool, or sit back and relax in a lounger with a cold beverage from the Shilovo Bar on the deck overlooking the Sabie River—you never know who may pop by for a visit: elephant, buffalo, hippo or antelope. Additional activities for those looking to expend extra energy include miniature golf, tennis, volleyball, table tennis and fitness training. As the sun sets and the stars come out to play, gather around the Lapa Restaurant’s campfire for a sundowner or two, after which you can savour an authentic bush dinner while being entertained by Shangaan traditional dancers, African choral groups or marimba bands. And the next morning, a generous buffet-style breakfast awaits at the Kudyela

Observation Tower Restaurant, either indoors or outdoors. Take a deep, invigorating breath of fresh wilderness air. For further relaxation and pampering, try a massage at the hotel’s new African-inspired spa. With a wondrous view of the Sabie River complemented by the soundtrack of the bushveld, you’ll be in seventh heaven in no time.

All you need to know Protea Hotel by Marriott© Kruger Gate is located on the Sabie River at the Paul Kruger Gate of the Kruger National Park, on Portia Shabangu Road in Skukuza, Mpumalanga.

Distance from local airports Skukuza Airport Nelspruit Airport Kruger Mpumalanga International

15km 90km 90km

Nearby attractions • Skukuza Golf Club • River rafting with Induna Adventures • Panorama Route • Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre • Perry’s Bridge Reptile Park • Elephant Whispers elephant interactions and walks

Contact details

Fitness Centre

Tel: 013 735 5671 Email: protea.mqpkg.sales@ proteahotels.com www.marriott.com/mqpkg

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SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • BOTSWANA

Wild and free Follow in the footsteps of the old explorers—and in the tracks of animals—on a mobile camping safari

By Tania Griffin

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SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • BOTSWANA

ou wake to the sounds of the bush: flapping wings, scurrying feet, grunts, growls, guffaws… The still-weak rays of the morning sun make an effort to pierce the flaps of your tent, while the faint aroma of coffee has already made its way inside. The crackling campfire outside sounds inviting, and you emerge from your canvas abode feeling on top of the world—on top of the wilds of Botswana, that is. It’s time to slow down and attune your senses to everything happening in this wide-open space, this fascinating bushveld, this veritable Eden. Here, in a remote part of southern Africa, there are no cellphone tones, no traffic jams, no overstimulating offices. It’s just you, the fauna and flora in this intimate setting, discovering the secrets of the wilderness like the explorers of old. If this is the type of authentic African adventure that would make you swoon, then a mobile safari is just the thing. Set up in some of the most iconic wilderness areas of Botswana, the exclusive tented camps move with the game—often following these animals right into extremely remote, untouched areas to which you wouldn’t have access on a regular safari. Indeed, it’s a ‘safari’ in the

original sense of the word: journey. In comparison to your surroundings, the camps themselves are anything but wild. There’s no roughing it here (albeit with no electricity or Wi-Fi, although some camps will have solar-powered chargers for your cameras). Accommodation is in luxury Merustyle tents with warm showers, sumptuous feasts, well-trained guides and crew… You and your fellow safari-goers will want for nothing as you move from site to site, viewing varied landscapes and myriad species of animals, dozing in the shade of giant baobabs and sharing your stories under a star-filled sky. So don your canvas hat and grab a pair of binocs, here’s a selection of top mobile safari camps that move in and around Botswana’s most well-loved natural wonders.

Nxai Pan National Park This wildlife reserve, part of the great Makgadikgadi complex, covers an area of 2 100km2 that includes three pans—Nxai, Kgama-Kgama and Kudiakam. These were once ancient salt lakes, but are now grassed over and scattered with islands of acacia trees. Smaller pans in the surrounds fill with water during the rainy season, providing a banquet for the resident

birds and game. Nxai Pan is known for its Kalahari lions with their dark manes, which share this sanctuary with elephant, wildebeest, giraffe, oryx, springbok, cheetah, jackal and the spotted hyena. Also present, but harder to spot, are leopard, wild dog and the brown hyena. And don’t forget the more than 200 bird species including kori bustard, korhaan and wattled crane, as well as rainy-season visitors such as flamingo and lesser spotted eagle. But the star of the Nxai Pan show is the zebra. The park is one of the best places to experience the longest zebra migration in Africa—from Namibia to the Nxai Pan area, across the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, covering over a thousand kilometres. African Bush Camps’ Migration Expeditions offers a front-row seat to this spectacle that occurs each year between December and March. The intimate and stylish bush camp comprises six canvas tents set on low decks, with two main-area tents consisting of a cosy lounge and dining area with open kitchen. A fire circle is at the heart of the camp, and is the ideal spot to reminisce on the adventures of the day. And adventures are aplenty: game drives in search of the famed lions,

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SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • BOTSWANA

zebra guests and other game; birding excursions to spot migratory visitors and locals such as carmine bee-eater; and a picnic stopover at Baines’ Baobabs—a cluster of gigantic ancient trees on a small island overlooking Kudiakam Pan.

Chobe National Park In the far north of Botswana, bordering on the river that gave it its name, Chobe must rate among the great game reserves of the world. Surrounded by wildlife management

areas that allow game to roam freely, the 11 700km² reserve (Botswana’s very first national park) shelters one of the largest concentrations of elephant on the African continent, as well as impressive herds of buffalo and two antelope species that aren’t encountered anywhere else in the country: puku and Chobe bushbuck. Adding to the numbers of wildlife are hippo, Nile crocodile, lion, hyena, red lechwe and zebra. The tracks and trails of some of these animals meander between the

C hobe Under Canvas

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five en-suite safari tents at andBeyond Chobe Under Canvas, positioned at exclusive semipermanent campsites on or near the Chobe River in the northern reaches of the park. Luxurious indeed, these tents will provide you with a dreaminducing double or twin bed, flush toilet, steaming-hot outdoor bucket shower and a private butler who’s on hand to assist with any requirements. The common guest area with its spacious tent is the space for dining on home-cooked meals, sipping on a pre-dinner drink, or simply taking in the sights, smells and sounds of the surrounding bush. During your adventure-filled day, you’ll explore the game-rich landscape of Chobe, with the knowledgeable guides explaining more about each sighting and the vegetation. And if you’re staying for two or more consecutive nights, you’ll be able to take a trip on the Pangolin photographic boat where you’ll receive top tips and advice from a professional photographer on how to capture that perfect shot. In a remote corner of the park, stretching from the northern boundaries to the Linyanti River, you’ll find Savute—named after the enigmatic channel that flows and dries up intermittently. Having been arid for almost 30 years, the channel began flowing again in recent years, bringing about a stunning transformation in the land. Large numbers of wildlife have returned, including elephant, lion, leopard and wild dog as well as zebra, wildebeest, buffalo and giraffe which now have abundant grazing. These animals and more can be

Migration Expeditions

HOLE

SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • BOTSWANA

Savute Under Canvas

appreciated at andBeyond Savute Under Canvas, a mobile camp positioned close to the channel. Like its sister camp, there are five luxury en-suite mobile tents with flush WC and outdoor bucket shower, and a common guest area for meals or relaxing with your own thoughts. Apart from game drives, you can spend the day on a walking safari to

the nearby Gubatsa Hills and marvel at the ancient San rock paintings, or stroll through the ‘avenue’ of majestic baobab trees at the edge of the wide-open plains. Sunsets here will be memorable, to say the least.

Okavango Delta Often referred to as the ‘jewel of the Kalahari’, the fan-shaped Okavango Delta meanders through a thirstland in a series of palm-and-papyrus fringed waterways fed by the Okavango River, the third largest in southern Africa. Channels, lagoons, ox-bow lakes, flooded grasslands and thousands of islands harbour a plethora of living creatures and flowering plants. With game viewing on both land and water, there’s never a dull moment. Zebra and antelope are watched by sly predators, elephant and hippo enjoy the cool waters of the river in which crocodile lurk, while

the skies are a-swarm with avian beauties. With Natural Selection’s Okavango Mobile Expeditions, the game-rich wilderness of the Delta is your playground. And your home for this adventure is a luxury canvas tent with down pillows and pure cotton sheets, as well as a private bathroom with hot water. In the mess tent you’ll find Persian rugs and classically styled furniture to add to the ambience. Daytime activities will take you as close as possible to the wildlife: boating along the waterways in a traditional dug-out canoe (mokoro), right past herds of elephant; exploring some of the remote islands on foot; zooming across the floodplains in a custom 4x4 in search of game; and lazily watching the birds circle overhead. And at night, for a wonderfully wild experience, fly-camp under the starlit firmament on a remote, lantern-lit island with just your bedroll and a mosquito net. Now this is Africa…

Contacts andBeyond Chobe Under Canvas www.andbeyond.com andBeyond Savute Under Canvas www.andbeyond.com

Okavango Mobile Expeditions 74

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Okavango Mobile Expeditions naturalselection.travel

Migration Expeditions africanbushcamps.com/ camps/migration-expeditions

A TIMELESS SAFARI EXPERIENCE Spectacular wildlife and breathtaking landscapes await at Tuli Safari Lodge

uli Safari Lodge, located in the Northern Tuli Game Reserve in Botswana, is an intimate and relaxing retreat offering a timeless safari experience with style and soul. A mere five-hour drive from Johannesburg, with daily charter flights (1hr) from Lanseria Airport into the reserve, Tuli Safari Lodge is your perfect safari getaway.

Situated between the mighty Limpopo River and the time-sculpted sandstone hills, 10 luxury suites lie nestled in the Tuli gardens. This unique part of the Northern Tuli Game Reserve boasts spectacular wildlife, breathtaking landscapes and a fascinating history. Activities include guided game drives & safari walks, birding, hides, community visits and after-dinner night drives.

Contact Reservations: reservations@tulilodge.com Tel: +27 (0) 73 303 6295 or +27 (0) 35 753 1366 www.tulilodge.com Facebook: Tuli Safari Lodge Instagram: tuli_safari_lodge_botswana Twitter: @TuliLodge

Set on 30 hectares along the banks of the Chobe River in Northern Botswana, this small owner operated lodge epitomises the hospitality of Africa. 11 thatched en suite chalets on raised decks beneath the spreading canopy of trees on expansive lawns extending down to the river’s edge. Saltwater swimming pool set down by the river, bar, restaurant, curio shop and reading lounge, are available for guests’ use. World renowned Chobe National Park ¬ home to Africa’s single largest population of elephant is nearby. Experience this reserve’s amazing wildlife by boat cruise on the Chobe River or game drive into Chobe National Park. A short cruise to the confluence of the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers where 4 countries meet; day trip to Victoria Falls; visits to a working crocodile farm and guided tours of a Wildlife Centre are also available.

Welcome – Goroga Sentle Tel: +267 6250312 | Email: reservations@kubulodge.net | Website: www.kubulodge.net

EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • KENYA

AROUND TOWN Spend a leisurely day discovering the natural and cultural highlights of Nairobi By Ashley van Schalkwyk

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EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • KENYA

more than 100 major international companies and organisations. Additionally, the Nairobi Securities Exchange is one of Africa’s largest and the second-oldest exchange on the continent, capable of making 10 million trades a day. But while Nairobi has all the hallmarks of a modern urban city, it has much to offer the leisure visitor looking to let off some steam.

Wide open spaces Named after the Masai phrase for a

watering hole, enkare nyarobi, which means “place of cool waters”— referring to the Nairobi River that flows through the city—the abundant parks and dense tree cover quietly whisper an invitation for you to come explore this vibrant metropolis. The most famous of these lush green spaces is Uhuru (“Freedom”) Park, bordering on the central business district. Here you’ll find locals relaxing around the artificial lake or in the quiet reading nooks, history buffs inspecting the several national monuments, and

othing more than a desolate frontier backwater just a century ago, Kenya’s capital city of Nairobi has undergone a remarkable transformation. Having started life as a depot on the Uganda Railway in 1899, it’s now one of Africa’s largest and most influential cities, with the enviable moniker as the continent’s safari capital. An established hub for business and culture, Nairobi is home to thousands of Kenyan businesses and

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EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • KENYA

Nairobi National Park

you’ll not only learn more about the four pillars of Kenya’s national heritage—its history, nature, culture and contemporary art—but also have an opportunity to shop and dine at a number of facilities. The famous Snake Park, Botanical Gardens and Nature Trail are also housed within the museum grounds.

Animal antics

Nairobi National Museum

Back in time An excellent starting point on a tour of Nairobi’s museums would be the one dedicated to the life of Karen Blixen, the pioneer Danish coffee farmer. She achieved world fame through her highly acclaimed memoir, Out of Africa, and the subsequent

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Oscar-winning movie starring Meryl Streep. Her lovely colonial house on a 1 800-hectare farm was bought by the Danish government in 1964 and presented as a gift to the Kenyan government when it achieved independence. It has been operating as a museum since 1986. At the Nairobi National Museum,

Central Park © ADOBE STOCK; WIKIMEDIA COMMONS/TOPPAZZ; ADOBE STOCK

skateboarders showing off their skills in the assembly ground. The latter is also used for the occasional political or religious gathering. Adjacent to Uhuru is Central Park, with its memorial to Jomo Kenyatta, the first president of Kenya, and the Moi Monument, built in 1988 to commemorate the second president’s first decade in power. There’s a great playground for children as well as plenty spots for a picnic. Another notable open space is Jeevanjee Gardens, the only park in the city directly owned by the people—having been donated by AM Jeevanjee, an Asian-born entrepreneur in Kenya, to the poor of Nairobi as a resting area. Have a sat on the artistic benches after exploring the authentic sculptures.

Lying just 7km from the city, Nairobi National Park, the first of its kind in Kenya, was officially opened in 1946; however, the area had been set aside as a game reserve in the early 1900s due to an increase in human and animal conflicts. Back then, Nairobi’s estimated 14 000 residents would arm themselves with guns at night to protect themselves against lions. People also complained that zebra and giraffe destroyed their flowerbeds! Once proclaimed as a reserve, settlers were happy to roam the bushveld on horseback among the wildlife. Also called Kifaru (“Rhino”) Ark, the national park is one of Kenya’s most successful rhinoceros sanctuaries, and is one of a handful of parks where you’re certain of seeing a black rhino in its natural habitat. Part of the park’s cultural heritage are the rock shelters and overhangs that in the past were used by the

EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • KENYA

Bomas of Kenya

Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

Giraffe Manor

to survive on their own in the wild, they’re carefully reintroduced into wild herds in Tsavo National Park.

A bit of culture

Masai and the Ndorobo huntergatherers. On an overhang in the Mokoiyete Valley, you can find rock paintings dating back more than a hundred years. These abstract motifs portraying painted shields and dwellings are believed to have been made by Masai pastoralists during their warrior initiation ceremonies. The renowned African Fund for Endangered Wildlife (AFEW) Giraffe Centre in Lagata, just outside Nairobi, is a must-visit—particularly for curious children. It was set up as a breeding centre for the endangered Rothschild giraffe, a subspecies only found in the grasslands of East Africa. In this natural sanctuary, you’ll be given a rare opportunity to climb a platform and come face to face with these gentle giants. You’ll also be able to feed them, allowing you an up-close look at how they use their prehensile tongues to remove leaves from prickly acacia branches.

Giraffe wander freely through the gardens here, and occasionally visit the Giraffe Manor: a beautifully maintained colonial home that now serves as an exclusive guesthouse. Don’t be surprised when one of these characters pushes its head through the French windows to inspect your breakfast! Another animal sanctuary that shouldn’t be left off your itinerary is the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust where elephant, rhino and other vulnerable animals are rehabilitated. It was established in 1977 by Daphne Sheldrick, whose husband David was one of Kenya’s best known game wardens and an important figure in the ivory poaching wars in Tsavo National Park. Best known for its Orphan’s Project, the trust has set up a haven for elephant calves from all over the country that have been orphaned by poaching. When they’re stable enough

Immerse yourself in Kenya’s diverse ethnicities at the Bomas of Kenya. Established to preserve, maintain and promote their rich cultural values, here you can experience various crafts as well as dance and musical performances by the BomasHarambee national dance company. But the Bomas aren’t just about dancing. At Utamaduni (“Culture”) Restaurant, tantalise your taste buds with the delectable menu of unique cultural foods from various Kenyan communities. Come try the nyamachoma (barbecued meats) and ugali (maize porridge), Abagusii matoke (plantains) and Abaluhya ingokho (chicken with green vegetables) in a relaxed natural setting among traditional huts, or bomas.

Contacts Karen Blixen Museum www.museums.or.ke/karen-blixen

Nairobi National Museum www.museums.or.ke/introduction

Nairobi National Park www.kws.go.ke/parks/nairobinational-park

AFEW Giraffe Centre www.giraffecentre.org

Sheldrick Wildlife Trust www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org

Bomas of Kenya www.bomasofkenya.co.ke

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EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • TANZANIA

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EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • TANZANIA

Just the two of us Planning a romantic rendezvous for you and your beloved? Embrace the extraordinary on a journey to Tanzania’s top destinations By Tania Griffin

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EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • TANZANIA

The Palms

rom dramatic bushveld landscapes to calm azure waters, there’s no place like Tanzania to indulge in a couple’s getaway. Whether you’re celebrating your honeymoon, an anniversary or a special birthday, the country has plenty marvellous locations to rekindle the romance and make lasting memories. So get out the passports and book your amorous African adventure!

The first stop on your journey of love is Lake Manyara National Park in the north of Tanzania, in the majestic Great Rift Valley. This 325km2 expanse is small compared to other African reserves, but is nevertheless teeming with wildlife: from elephant, wildebeest, giraffe and buffalo, to zebra, impala, warthog and dik dik— not to mention its famous treeclimbing lions. Birding is as exceptional. Almost two-thirds of the area is covered in the waters of the eponymous lake, particularly when full to capacity in the rainy season. In extreme dry periods, the surface area of this shallow soda lake shrinks as

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The Palms the waters evaporate, exposing large areas of mud flats along the shore; these alkaline flats sprout into grasslands that attract grazing animals. In the wet season, it’s the turn of flocks of candy-pink flamingos and other water birds to descend on the lake in a feasting frenzy. Here in this spectacular setting of water, woodland and mountainside, you’ll discover andBeyond Lake Manyara Tree Lodge cradled in the boughs of an ancient mahogany forest. A cosy and romantic stilted treehouse suite awaits you and your loved one, crafted from local timber and makuti palm fronds to create a

dreamy leafy abode. During the day, take a scenic bicycle ride through the nearby Mayoka community and interact with the friendly locals, after which you can enjoy a leisurely peddle along a picturesque route to the Manyara lakeshore and its bright pink inhabitants. A picnic lunch for two will do quite nicely, don’t you think? Back at the lodge, meander hand-in-hand along the Treetop Walkway: a series of suspended bridges (flanked with netting for safety) that snake through a dense forest canopy to various viewing platforms of up to 18 metres high.

“Overhead the treetops meet” – Robert Browning

andBeyond Lake Manyara Lodge Share a quiet moment together as you take in the remarkable views of the surrounding wilderness. Round off the day with a pampering couple’s massage before you embark on a night drive under the starry African skies.

“A rose by any other name would smell as sweet” – William Shakespeare Is there any flower as romantic as the rose? At andBeyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, they’re in full supply: adorning your bedroom and bathroom, and scattered around your private deck. Combine the flowers’ heady aroma with the achingly beautiful view over the famed Ngorongoro Crater, and you have the perfect location to celebrate your love. Each stilted, handcrafted bananathatch suite at this elegant baroque château is adorned with beautiful antiques and African treasures, leatherback chairs and billowing

raw-silk curtains; the opulence extends to the en-suite bathroom where you’ll soak in a bathtub beneath a grand beaded chandelier. All around are floor-to-ceiling windows that afford breathtaking views of the surrounds. A personal butler discretely caters for your every need—whether it’s serving tea in bed, stoking the fireplace or drawing your luxurious bubble bath. Nearly three million years old, the ancient Ngorongoro caldera is a veritable wildlife haven, sheltering endangered black rhino, giant-tusked elephant, lion and flamingo, as well as avian species such as golden-winged sunbird, African cytrill, white-eyed slaty flycatcher, Schalow’s wheatear and mountain buzzard. On a late afternoon walk along the western rim of the crater, you’ll be able to experience all these natural wonders in their various habitats of acacia woodland, thick lush forests and open grasslands.

It’s also here where the old Masai, swathed in their bright red shukka robes, bring their cattle to graze. As an extra-special touch, a group of Masai warriors will fill this age-old land with their traditional songs and chants as you celebrate the setting sun with sundowners on the very rim of the crater. Unforgettable. No lodge does romantic dinners better… If you opt to dine together up in your own suite, start the evening off with a long soak in the rosy bath, taking in the magnificent views of the caldera. Then follow the trail of petals to an elegant table for two out on your deck where your butler will serve a delicious feast accompanied by a bottle of the finest French Champagne. For something in a different environment, savour your private meal in the lodge’s intimate wine store with French Champagne and a bottle of wine of your choice—or pair a five-course dinner with the lodge’s exclusive wines from its cellar and toast another perfect day.

“Thy shadow o’er the vale moves slow” – William Cullen Bryant

andBeyond Lake Manyara Lodge

If you time your journey well, you can have a front-row seat to the most spectacular show on Earth: the annual wildebeest migration in the Serengeti. And what better viewpoint than from high up in the sky? A hot-air balloon trip over the wide expanse of this world-renowned national park will be a memorable experience: Imagine soaring on the wind, feeling as light as a cloud, peering down to see the enormous herds of wildebeest and zebra slowly making their way across

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EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • TANZANIA

andBeyond Ngorogoro Crater Lodge Elewana Serengeti Pioneer Camp andBeyond Ngorogoro Crater Lodge

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This establishment has special permission from park authorities to use a private picnic site on top of a hill that offers stunning views over the Serengeti. It’s the perfect location for some quiet time with your partner, while enjoying both the gourmet luncheon and the wonderful setting. As the sun sets over this pristine piece of Africa, raise your cocktail glass to the pink-orange sky and wait until the inky firmament lights up with stars and the night comes alive with animal chorus—dinner theatre at its very best. “…by a fresh soft breeze o’erblown. The swiftness of the tide, the light thereon, a far-off sail…” – Emma Lazarus Round off your romantic rendezvous on the Indian Ocean island of Zanzibar where Arab, African, Indian and European cultures come together in a magical melting pot. It’s paradise, indeed. The Palms Zanzibar is an exclusive private resort situated on Bwejuu Beach on the southeastern coast. With just six grand colonial villas, it

Contacts • andBeyond Lake Manyara Tree Lodge www.andbeyond.com • andBeyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge www.andbeyond.com • Miracle Experience miracleexperience.co.tz • Elewana Serengeti Pioneer Camp www.elewanacollection.com • The Palms Zanzibar www.palms-zanzibar.com

plains and rivers, touched only by your balloon’s silhouette as it floats by… Miracle Experience operates hot-air ballooning basecamps in prime areas of the Serengeti, offering heartstopping views of the savannah while tracking the famous migration. These seasonal bases are located in Kirawira (June to October), Kogatende (June to November) and Ndutu (December to March), with a permanent base in Seronera (central Serengeti) that operates all-year round. For an added romantic touch, surprise your loved one with a flight in the red heart-shaped balloon! Upon landing, you’ll be treated to a Champagne celebration followed by a short drive to a lovely location where a scrumptious bush breakfast awaits. Continue the romance at the Elewana Serengeti Pioneer Camp set within the Moru Kopjes area in the south of the national park. The 12 luxury tented accommodations bring to mind the mobile safari camps of the 1930s, when the secrets of Africa were still being uncovered and pioneering explorers trekked on horseback over the seemingly endless plains.

provides the ideal intimate getaway for couples. Laze on your silk-draped four-poster bed, float in the plunge pool with its never-ending views of the ocean, rejuvenate in the Frangipani Spa with a his-and-hers massage. Peace, tranquillity… There’s plenty more to fill up your leisure time than just strolling barefoot on the white sands or sipping on a sundowner on the beach at sunset. Join an experienced seafaring crew as they sail down to the mangrove swamps of Mchamvi and around the local peninsula in a dhow, one of the oldest ships in the world. Its triangular lateen sails and elegant timber hulls are a memorable sight on the Swahili coast, and it makes for a wonderful setting to enjoy a moonlit dinner. You can also partake in a sumptuous supper in a private beach bower, lantern light casting a romantic glow over your celebration.

With over 70 eateries including fast food and sit-down restaurants to choose from, Gateway offers a world of local and international flavours for

for every taste!

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INDIAN OCEAN ISL ANDS • MOZAMBIQUE

OVER

SEA AND

SAND here’s plenty more to do on the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago than lazing on the beach with a drink in hand

nown as the Pearl of the Indian Ocean, Mozambique is truly one of the treasures of southern Africa. With 2 500 kilometres of wondrous beachfront, and idyllic tropical islands with their swaying coconut palms, strikingly white sands and jewel-like waters, it’s

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a utopia for travellers seeking solitude and solace from busy lifestyles. The Bazaruto Archipelago, in particular, offers a respite like no other. Pristine natural beauty, rich marine life hidden in the azure expanse, luxury accommodation… what more could you ask for to enjoy a picture-perfect vacation?

Declared a national park in 1971, the archipelago comprises six islands lying just off the mainland between Vilanculos and Inhassoro: Bazaruto (the largest), Benguerra, Margaruque, Santa Carolina (also known as Paradise Island), Banque and Pansy Shell Island. The park was created to protect the rare endangered dugong

By Charmaine Harry

INDIAN OCEAN ISL ANDS • MOZAMBIQUE

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INDIAN OCEAN ISL ANDS • MOZAMBIQUE

Horsing around Have some beach fun with a new friend—an equine friend, that is. Novice and expert riders alike will have a great time swimming with horses in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. And these animals love this adventure, too! It’s 30 minutes of frolicking, capering, splashing as you ride your steed over the beach and into the sea. Afterward you can watch in delight as horsey takes a few rolls in the sand and has a bite to eat. Where to enjoy this activity andBeyond Benguerra Island www.andbeyond.com

Down the dunes For a ‘drier’ adventure, turn your horse’s sights to the beach sand dunes of Bazaruto. Upon your mount, you’ll

espy the remarkable birdlife of the island as they soar above the equally beautiful landscape with its glittering lakes. It’s a leisurely canter for riders of any level, but if you’re an experienced galloper looking for something a bit more exciting, your guide can take you to the wild side of the ocean for some more beachside fun. The spectacular sand towers are also ideal for an afternoon of dune boarding. There’s fun to be had for the whole family as you take turns clambering up the dunes and then letting gravity bring you back down at an exhilarating speed. Where to enjoy this activity Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort www.anantara.com/en/bazarutoisland

Just cruisin’ Because Bazaruto and Benguerra are part of an archipelago, it’s easy to travel to any of the surrounding islands. A boat trip to the southernmost tip of Pansy Shell Island will afford views of the local fishermen plying their trade in their traditional dhows, and sea creatures such as flamingos and dolphins. Santa Carolina was named Paradise Island, unsurprisingly, for its beautiful white beaches and fantastic underwater marvels. The ruins of an old hotel and church, built during the time of Mozambique’s Portuguese rule, are fascinating to explore. An additional 10-minute boat

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and marine turtles, as well as the islands’ flora and fauna (including marine birds) and coral reefs that harbour more than 2 000 fish species. The main islands of Bazaruto and Benguerra are just the place to make all your tropical dreams come true. Fantastic hotels where you can put your feet up in luxury surrounds, beachside venues where you can sip on a cocktail while the setting sun casts its orange glow on the ocean, lantern-lit coves where you can indulge in a sumptuous seafood dinner, traditional dhows that take you out to sea. But there are other exciting pastimes on offer here—on the sand and in the sea—that are bound to be memorable endeavours, and which will no doubt make your getaway even more special.

INDIAN OCEAN EAST AFRICAN ISL ANDS TRAVEL • MOZAMBIQUE • KENYA

Where to enjoy this activity Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort www.anantara.com/en/bazarutoisland Azura Benguerra azura-retreats.com

Picnic for two Make like Robinson Crusoe and be a castaway on a secluded island, just you and your partner and the bright blue sea. A catamaran will take you out to either South Point Bazaruto or North Point Benguerra, and leave you there for the afternoon to revel in having an island to yourself. On South Point, you can partake in

a thrilling dive before settling down on a lounger on the strikingly white sand; while on North Point, you can while away the time marvelling at the gorgeous views from your spot on a sand spit that juts out into the ocean, or go for a walk on the beach to hunt for the beautiful rippled seashells. Perhaps you’ll encounter the translucent ghost crab, or a pretty pink flock of flamingos. The highlight of this excursion is a romantic picnic under an awning, on your very own stretch of beach. Delight in the vast assortment of hors d’oeuvres, appetisers and local delicacies as you watch the rays of the sun dancing over the shimmering ocean. Where to enjoy this activity andBeyond Benguerra Island www.andbeyond.com

Let’s go for a drive Climb into a game-viewing vehicle and go see the sights! You’ll pass through the local villages on Benguerra and be able to spot the mammals, birds and reptiles that call this island home—

grab a wild fruit from the indigenous trees to snack on. There’ll also be an opportunity to spot large Nile crocs in the aptly named Crocodile Lakes, and do an easy hike up Red Dune to appreciate the amazing views of the island. Encounters with the local communities are a wonderful way to find out more about their history and their way of life. At Benguerra’s School, built by the Azura Rainbow Fund, you may see the children in class, meet the teachers and possibly have a chat with the headmaster. If you’re visiting on a Sunday, your guide can take you to see a village church service; it’s well attended by the locals, and is a unique glimpse into their culture. Or go cheer for a local soccer team playing in the Island League—they take their matches quite seriously! If you fancy yourself a bit of a Lionel Messi, go ahead and join in the fun. © &BEYOND

cruise will take you to Two Mile Reef, one of the archipelago’s best snorkelling sites that shelters hundreds of species of tropical fish, coral, rays and invertebrates. Above the water you’ll be able to spot humpback whales during their annual migration and, if you’re really lucky, the highly endangered gentle giant: the dugong.

Where to enjoy this activity Azura Benguerra azura-retreats.com

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SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

LAND OF

KINGS Embark on a journey through the far north of Namibia—where the desert meets the Angolan woodland, where royalty rules and memorials whisper of fallen kinsmen

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SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

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SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

Roof of Namibia Experience This experience links the Kunene River at Ruacana Falls with the Okavango along the Angolan border. The route leads through numerous

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pans and flooded channels known as oshana, which move southward from Angola toward the Etosha salt pan. Travellers will enjoy the feeling of a rural landscape interspersed with a bustling urban landscape. The Cuvelai-Etosha River Basin is located in the north-central regions of Namibia, but originates in Angola. Most of the water travels in shallow ephemeral watercourses (oshana) and end up in the Etosha Pan. In about 1550, the people referred to collectively as the Aawambo moved southward from the Great Lakes in East Africa and settled between the

Kunene and Okavango rivers. Today, the area is known as Owamboland and represents nearly half of the total population of Namibia. Efundja is the Ovambo word for “flood”, and refers to the seasonal floods that occur annually when water from Angola’s Cuvelai River Basin fills the entire area’s oshana with water. In 2012, scientists found over 5 billion cubic metres of water within the Cuvelai-Etosha Delta (northern Namibia and Angola). The aquifer is said to be more than 200m deep and can supply water for a further 400 years at present consumption levels.

Ombalantu Boabab Tree Heritage Centre

rom bustling markets with unique smells, colours and sounds to the beauty of the Etosha National Park, venture off the beaten track to discover the pulse of Namibia on the Omulunga Palm Route. Named after the distinctive makalani palms—omulunga in the local Ovambo language—that dot the flat landscape, this tourism route stretches from Ruacana in the west to Nkurenkuru in the east. It’s not only the gateway to Angola but also links the remote and desolate northwest to the lush water ecosystem of the Kavango and Zambezi regions. The route is the quintessential oasis for weary travellers and serves as a practical stopover to refuel and restock in the heart of a bustling African community. Travellers will experience traditional and contemporary Ovambo culture alongside each other and get a glimpse of local tribal royalty. The area reveals a strong liberation history, while nature lovers can enjoy the abundant wildlife and wilderness in the worldfamous Etosha National Park.

Ruacana Falls

SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

Ruacana Falls Ruacana Falls is located near the eponymous town on the Kunene River. The waterfall is 120m high and 700m wide in full flood, and rates among the largest waterfalls in Africa, both by volume and width. The Ruacana area boasts some beautiful rock formations, with the rich textured colouring of the landscape contrasting with the lush river and arid desert to the south. The landscape is further complemented by an array of trees including the regal baobab, acacia and fever tree. Spectacular sunsets and wonderful birdlife are just two further highlights. Ombalantu Baobab Tree Heritage Centre “Omukwa waaMbalantu”: The tree of life, as the people of Ombalantu know the precious baobab tree, played a

SWA SAFARIS

NAMIBIA

significant role in local history. Its hollow trunk has, at various times, been used as a hideout, a post office and a chapel, and was integrated into the South African military base. The tree can accommodate up to 30 people at a time! Information displays in front of the tree’s entrance give a short overview of its diverse history, its role in the Owambo community, and the struggle for independence from South Africa. The centre also has a renovated coffee shop, the original building having been used by the South Africans during colonial times. The craft shop offers a wide range of wire products, from replicas of the baobab tree to animals, but also traditional Owambo baskets and clay pots. In the shadow of the baobab tree, travellers will find the ideal spot for a picnic at any time of day. The centre also features four private campsites.

Outapi War Museum The Outapi War Museum is located underground in the former South African Army Base situated within the town previously known as Ohatopi. The base was built in 1975 and became home to thousands of South African conscripts stationed on the border during the Namibian War of Independence, which lasted from 1966 until 1989—making it one of Africa’s longest conflicts. In addition to a display featuring war materials, the museum complex comprises a conference hall, Internet café, refreshment area with a restaurant, gymnasium with a swimming pool, as well as bed-andbreakfast accommodation. Eenhana Memorial Shrine Eenhana is the capital town of the Ohangwena region on the border of Angola. Before Namibian

SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

Where to stay Roof of Namibia Kunene River Lodge kuneneriverlodge.com Situated on the banks of the Kunene River, a lush canopy of indigenous trees provides shade for chalets and campsites, while the swimming pool is located on the sunny lawn. From the bar and restaurant deck, soak up the view over the river that leads to the Ruacana Falls.

Eenhana Memorial Shrine

The King Nehale Experience The King Nehale Experience takes travellers along a journey through the colourful towns of Oshakati, Ongwediva and Ondangwa and the starkly contrasting rural villages that surround them, and offers an interesting and enlightening glimpse into the history of the tribal royalty. Etosha King Nehale Gate At just over 500 square kilometres, King Nehale is a relatively small conservancy yet one with a large population of around 20 000 residents, most of whom speak Oshiwambo. Eight main Owambo traditional authorities or kingdoms are widely recognised, and the residents of King Nehale Conservancy live within the Ondonga Kingdom. The conservancy is named after the late King Nehale lya Mpingana, signifying the importance of

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traditional leadership. The King Nehale Gate on the northern border of Etosha National Park was officially opened in 2003 and allows visitors the opportunity to combine natural wonders with the cultural vibrancy of Owambo. Uukwaluudhi Royal Homestead One of the seven traditional kingdoms of Owamboland is Uukwaluudhi. The royal homestead lies within view of the Tsandi village, about 100km from Oshakati on the D3612 road. It affords travellers the incredible opportunity of experiencing the ways and traditions of Owambo imperial families. Relive traditional African royalty with tours through the homestead, with entertainment in the form of singing and dancing (traditional meals may be served if requested in

Uukwambi Kings Monument Elim is a village located 30km west of Oshikati, and is the centre of the Uukwambi traditional authority. The Monument for the Uukwambi Kings was erected upon the grave of the 16th monarch, Nuuyoma. Ongula Cultural Village Ongula Cultural Village is strategically situated between Ondangwa (one of the oldest towns in the northern region) and Eenhana, built alongside an active Owambo homestead. Ongula introduces visitors to the traditional lifestyle of the Owambo people and affords the opportunity to participate in the preparation of local traditional

Etosha King Nehale Gate conservancy

independence, it was a military centre of the South African Defence Force, but without public infrastructure. It was proclaimed a settlement in 1992 and a town in 1999. The name Eenhana comes from the word “calves” in the Oshikwanyama language, in reference to the animals that used to drink at the small water pan where the town is now located. Here you’ll find at least five mass graves of resistance fighters from the South West Africa People’s Organisation, dating back to the War of Independence. In 2008, the government built the Eenhana Memorial Shrine to commemorate the lives lost in the liberation struggle.

advance). The king will occasionally meet and talk to visitors. The homestead has a small display at the entrance, providing details of the history and culture of the Kingdom of Uukwaluudhi.

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Where to stay King Nehale Etosha King Nehale www.gondwana-collection.com Opening on 1 May 2020, this luxury lodge lies about 5km north of the King Nehale Gate on the northern border of Etosha National Park, in a spectacular conservancy that harbours plains, artesian springs and woodlands. Forty rooms pay homage to the rich cultural heritage of the area, with a verandah and private splash pool, as well as a restaurant and bar.

Ongula Cultural Village Nakambale Museum

Ongula Village Homestead Lodge www.ongula.com Right in the heart of Owamboland, Ongula is built alongside a live homestead with four luxury rondawels (African-style round huts) accommodating eight guests. Participate in the village chores, delight in traditional dishes and drinks, and learn local arts and crafts.

Namutoni & Onkoshi Resorts drinks and meals as well as basket weaving and pottery. Four en-suite rondavels provide accommodation for overnight guests. Day tours to the museum, open-air craft markets and tribal houses are available, and visitors can attend some of the seasonal events such as the Marula Festival and traditional weddings. Omugulugwombashe National Monument This settlement in the Omusati region is one of the sites of the War of Independence. On 26 August 1966, eight helicopters from the South African Defence Force attacked guerrilla fighters at Omugulugwombashe—the first armed battle to be fought on Namibian soil since the South African government colonised the country. In 1996, on the 30th anniversary of the start of the conflict, the Namibian government erected a monument in honour of this battle. Nakambale Museum In 1868, Finnish missionary Martti Rautanen left on a journey to Namibia and arrived in Olukonda two years later—he ended up spending the rest of his life there. He became known among

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the locals as Nakambale, “the one who wears a hat”. Rautanen translated the Bible and hymns into Ndonga and was a keen student of the indigenous culture. He made meteorological observations, worked in botanical research and became a respected personality in Namibia as well as Finland. His mission station is now the Nakambale Museum, one of the best places to learn more about Owambo culture and history. It lies in the village of Olukonda, 14km southwest of Ondangwa, and includes the original church and a traditional Ngonga homestead. Lake Oponono Wetlands Lake Oponono is a large wetland fed by underground oshana. After the rainy season, visitors can view a variety of birdlife including saddlebilled storks, grey crowned cranes, flamingos and pelicans. The edge of the lake is located 27km south of Ondangwa. Ombupupu Pond & Okahao Baobab Heritage Site Okahao held great importance within the local Ongandjera Kingdom. The village was known as a place of magic,

www.nwr.com.na Built into an old German Historic Fort built in 1897, Namutoni Resort lies in the eastern part of the Etosha National Park overlooking the flood-lit King Nehale waterhole from which visitors can enjoy views of wildlife without leaving the resort. Located in seclusion, on the rim of the majestic Etosha Salt Pan and far away from the public self-drive routes, Onkoshi provides a beautiful escape within the world-famous park. The 15 freestanding chalets overlook the vast pan that’s home to a variety of exotic wildlife such as pink flamingos and four of the Big Five.

or iinonoma, because of the mysterious Ombupupu Pond; permission to use its water had to be sought from the ancestors. The pond was also used as a ‘ballot box’ in the election of a new Ongandjera king. An iconic baobab tree in this area has become a heritage site dedicated to those who lost their lives during the War of Independence. Article courtesy of Namibia Tourism Board (www.namibiatourism.com.na)

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Sundowner game drive Horseback safari Cheetah feeding Morning walk with the San Kalahari treatment spa Stargazing

info@bagatelle-kalahari-gameranch.com www.bagatelle-kalahari-gameranch.com Reservations: Tel: +264 61 250725 reservation@resdest.com

SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

THE IDEAL AFRICAN RETREAT

Whether it’s adventure or rest you seek, Otjimbondona Kalahari is the place to be

tjimbondona, meaning “the place where the small camelthorn trees grow” in a local ethnic group language, was bought by the Slaney family in 1922 to farm with sheep and cattle. Wilfried and Anita took over the farm in 2008 as the third generation of cattle-farming Slaneys, and welcome guests to their boutique lodge: Otjimbondona Kalahari. Otjimbondona is situated 120km southeast of Windhoek and 80km from the Hosea Kutako International Airport, on a

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now 4 000-hectare private nature reserve on the fringes of the Namibian Kalahari. The Manor House and surrounds is the meeting point for all meals, to do a workout in the gym, enjoy getting acquainted with other guests while having sundowners in front of the fireplace, or just lounge around the infinity pool. It’s also the assembly point for all your activities. These activities include nature/game drives during which a great variety of game and birds can be sighted, or a farm drive for some insight into farming in Namibia. For

the more active, we offer fat biking or nature walks. An extra treat, in the comfort of the Villa, are massages by our in-house masseuse. Scenic flights from our farm can be arranged to destinations of your choice. This hidden gem, with its inviting Manor House and four comfortable Villas, is the perfect place to end your Namibian adventure, to celebrate birthdays and anniversaries, or to share your vows in a small intimate wedding—or simply come stay at this wonderful haven to relax and unwind. Otjimbondona welcomes you!

Cradled amongst Camelthorn trees and vistas of undulating Kalahari sands crusted in golden grass, Otjimbondona offers those seeking luxury, exclusivity and tranquility the ideal African retreat.

Four luxurious Villas offering modern comforts in an exquisite Kalahari landscape, each decorated to depict a different theme.The Villas offer complete privacy to complement the romantic setting.

Contact: Tel:+264 81 243 5478 or Tel:+264 81 127 4358

. welcome@otijmbondona.com . www.otjimbondona.com

SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

Time out Recharge your body and mind at Namibia’s top spa and wellness retreats

By Charmaine Harry

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limbing the world’s highest sand dunes, quad biking through the desert landscapes, pursuing the Big 5 in a private game reserve, rising at the break of dawn to go hot-air ballooning… adventuring in Namibia can be an exhausting endeavour! What better way to take time out on your busy itinerary than settling

in for a pampering spa session? Namibia is so blessed with wonderful locations out in the isolated wilderness that you can still appreciate the sights and sounds of the bushveld while being treated to a relaxing massage—loosening those knots and treating those tired muscles so that you’re ready to continue your explorations in this

remarkable country. There are quite a number of lodges offering wellness spaces and spas, all across Namibia’s favourite destinations. So wherever you find yourself on your desert journey, there’s sure to be an oasis nearby just waiting to replenish your energy and rejuvenate mind and spirit.

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Epacha Wildlife & Wellness Resort Etosha National Park

www.namibia-collection.com Onguma Game Reserve Moving to the eastern border of Etosha, Onguma (meaning “the place

Epacha Wildlife & Wellness Resort Epacha Wildlife & Wellness Resort was the first game lodge in Namibia to combine the African safari experience with spa options. Along with Eagle Tented Lodge, Epacha is located in the expansive Epacha Private Game Reserve, adjacent to Etosha National Park in the north of the country. Luxury chalets and Hemingway-style safari tents are spread out over the hills overlooking the bushveld where black rhino, giraffe, impala and gemsbok roam undisturbed. At Epacha’s Mystique Spa, visitors

to both lodges can make use of the Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room; while the open-air duo-treatment room is the perfect location for you and your partner to experience the healing touch of the masseurs together as you soak up the Namibian wilderness ambiance.

you don’t want to leave” in Herero) offers five lodges and two campsites in 34 000 hectares of private wilderness. Adventure, romance, tranquillity… what better place to unwind and indulge the senses? Onguma Tented Camp is a beguiling mix of sophistication and relaxation: Seven tents provide exclusive accommodation that echoes the natural surrounds, while the spa offers holistic, intuitive and tailormade treatments to relax and restore your body, mind and soul. The resident professional massage therapist has over 15 years’ experience, having lived and worked at renowned wellness centres in Asia and Africa. Having had the opportunity to spend considerable time with monks in Thailand has also led him to incorporate focused awareness into his massage therapies. You’re in good hands! A consultation prior to your treatment ensures it meets your specific needs and preferences— whether you opt for the full body massage, lymphatic drainage massage or Thai foot massage, among others. Onguma also offers a unique massage therapy that combines intuitive massage techniques, acupressure and Thai yoga stretching. It’s a powerful form of energy rebalancing, enhanced blood circulation, greater flexibility in the joints, improved posture and additional stimulation of the internal

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SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge

organs. Just what you need after days of exploring one of Namibia’s—and the world’s—greatest wildlife parks. www.onguma.com

Namib-Naukluft Park andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge Deep in the Namib, the world’s oldest living desert, set among imposing dunes you’ll discover this gem. Stone-and-glass villas blend seamlessly into the surrounds of

Sossusvlei, their massive windows allowing panoramic views of the endless vistas of colour-changing sands and the wildlife that gathers around the nearby waterhole. Begin each day with an invigorating workout at the gym which catches the first rays of the morning sun. And end your day in an equally sumptuous fashion at the wellness centre which provides a glimpse of the stunning setting sun as you partake in the many relaxing treatments on offer. It’s a truly authentic African spa experience.

In the treatment room with private spa bath, or the separate wet-room spa, the therapists make use of Healing Earth natural, eco-friendly and holistic skincare products that leave you feeling pampered, calm and in harmony with the natural surrounds. Even the names of the treatments bring about a sense of tranquillity: Soul of the Earth Celebration, Quiet Mind Journey, Earth Glow Body Polish, African Handprint Ritual… www.andbeyond.com Le Mirage Resort & Spa Located only 21 kilometres from Sesriem, the entrance gate to the Namib-Naukluft Park and Sossusvlei, the stone walls of Le Mirage rise from the desert sands like a welcoming oasis straight out of the Arabian Nights. Each room affords a view of the vast plains and towering red dunes of the ancient Namib Desert, and lone animals making their way over the golden sands. Take a breather from the day’s quad biking, nature drives and scenic

Le Mirage Resort & Spa

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flights in the courtyard where a Jacuzzi and swimming pool await in the lush gardens. For something more destressing and rejuvenating, spend a while in the steam room or enjoy a foot massage—or make your way to the wellness centre for specialised treatments such as ancient Thai massage to align the energies of your body, a Namib dune sand body scrub and warm aroma bath, and a music bowl massage that balances your chakras through the sounds and vibrations made by copper bowls placed on your body. Absolute bliss. www.mirage-lodge.com

Kavango Divava Okavango Resort & Spa In the Bagani area close to Divundu is Namibia’s hidden wildlife paradise nestled among majestic green trees on the banks of the Okavango River. Charming African thatched buildings and chalets with expansive decks, a restaurant, sparkling pool and wellness spa all overlook this mighty waterway, with the sounds of the nearby Popa Falls providing a backtrack. After a long safari, put your feet up at the spa which has been designed in the style of a local traditional hut; each treatment room is private, and

GocheGanas Nature Reserve & Wellness Village

www.divava.com

Windhoek GocheGanas Nature Reserve & Wellness Village Perched on a hilltop, the luxury lodge at GocheGanas shares 6 000ha of wild open spaces with 25 different animal species—a superb area for game viewing and nature walks. Private thatched chalets boast uninterrupted views, with architecture and décor incorporating local arts and crafts in celebration of Namibia’s various cultures. It’s in this impressive location—just 29km southeast of Windhoek—that the GocheGanas Wellness Village takes pride of place, comprising not only 11 specialist treatment rooms (with hydrotherapy bath and vichy shower), a heated indoor swimming pool under a cathedral-like masonry vault, an outdoor swimming pool, the Granite Bath cave sauna (stones are heated by natural fire, then immersed in fountain water) and Kneipp shower with chilled natural spring water—but also gym and yoga facilities, as well as a fruit and juice bar. Everything you need to realign mind, body and soul. www.gocheganas.com

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Divava Okavango Resort & Spa

has incredible views of the Okavango and the surrounding bush. On the menu is popular spa fare such as back & neck massages and full-body massages, plus hot-stone massages, body wraps, scrubs, Thalasso treatments and a steam room.

Hotel Deutsches Haus Restaurant and Bar | Sat-TV | High speed Internet

THE HOTEL

RESTAURANT AND BAR

Hotel Deutsches Haus 3 star hotel is located in the city centre of Swakopmund. It offers a charming ambience and prides itself on excellent service. We offer full in-house laundry service, conference facilities, free high speed internet, spacious comfortable rooms and are well renowned for our in house Restaurant and Bar. Our recently refurbished rooms now cater up to 70 beds, comprising of single, double, spacious family rooms and luxury suites.

Our Restaurant and Bar provides the highest quality to tantalize your culinary taste buds. Our kitchen opens daily at 5am for Breakfast. Lunch and Dinner specials as well as a range of cocktails are available and can be enjoyed indoors or on our roof top terrace. Our cosy bar area will cater to the casual drink or for the occasional get away after a long day out.

13 Lüderitz Street, Swakopmund Tel: +264 (0)64 404 896 | E-mail: info@hotel.na | www.hotel.na

Swakopmund • Namibia

We Make it Easy to Relax .... Our hotel has been under family management since 1968, established by the Rapund Family. We oﬀer 25 standard and 2 luxury en-suite rooms with reasonable prices. Enjoy our well known hearty breakfast with a sea view, in a friendly atmosphere. Our ideal central location, with a 2 minute walk to the beach and town centre, will make your stay easy and relaxing.

Tel: +264 (0)64 402035 • Cell: +264 (0)81 420 6142 rapmund@iafrica.com.na • www.hotelpensionrapmund.com

SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

A SKY

HIGH Take a flying safari over Namibia for the best views of all its natural wonders By Charmaine Harry

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more, and be impressed by the sheer vastness of the country: sand dunes, ocean, mountains, salt pans. The Land of Contrasts, indeed. A fly-in safari provides this stunning bird’s-eye view of Namibia. As you sit and relax in the small plane, cast your eyes downward over the ever changing landscapes and take in all that the country has to offer. Watch a lonely oryx trekking across the Namib, see the waves battering the Skeleton Coast, fly over the top of the red Erongo Mountains, follow the silhouette of the aircraft as you cross

the desert. Here are two of the more popular fly-in safaris offered in Namibia. Get ready for a once-in-a-lifetime aerial adventure!

Namibia Flying Safari by Natural Selection This excursion takes place over six days across the country, in a series of short flights so that you aren’t too fatigued to enjoy the wonderful scenery passing by below. Your first stop is the NamibRand Nature Reserve, swooping over the vast Namib Desert, trying to spot some of the animals that have adapted to living in this arid and barren land—binoculars at the ready! Then, as the plane takes a turn toward Sossusvlei, you’ll be greeted by enigmatic red sand dunes, some of the highest in the world. From the air, the towering mounds look even more impressive. Keep an eye out for springbok and oryx. From Sossusvlei, there’s a scenic flight over the famous Eduard Bohlen shipwreck, a German cargo ship that ran aground while on its way to Table Bay from Swakopmund. Over the

here’s no doubt about it: Namibia is an awe-inspiring country, hauntingly beautiful in its desertscapes, striking in its coastal areas, with breathtaking landscapes that stretch as far as the eye can see. Driving through the various regions is a memorable experience, marvelling at Mother Nature’s handiwork and mingling with the locals who call this land home. But set your sights a bit higher—to the skies above. From this lofty vantage point you’ll see so much

Düsternbrook is the first guest farm in Namibia, located just north of Windhoek. Our guest farm is located on a mountain with a breath taking view overlooking a dry wide riverbed. The historical old farm house is built out of natural stone, in colonial style.

ACCOMMODATION • • • • •

•

Katrin luxury suite - 4 star accommodation. Beautiful terrace overlooking the riverbed, indoor fireplace, kitchenette, air condition, walk-in shower, nespesso coffee/tea station.

Felsenhaus - 3 star accommodation. Terrace overlooking the riverbed, air condition, shower, nespesso coffee/tea station.

Africa room - 3 star accommodation.Air condition, shower, nespesso coffee/tea station. Dama house i- 3 star accommodation. Family unit, 3 beds in 2 rooms, air condition, shower, big terrace, nespesso coffee/tea station.

Kolonial house - Room 4: single unit with queensize bed. Further more we have 2 1 star safari tents, and 4 chalets at water spots away from the main house ( 3 km and 5 km) these are for naturelovers and you can do self catering, no luxury very basic equipped like up-market camping but you have a room, toilet, shower, beds, solar light. We have two campsites. Bush campsite is fenced and has electricity 24/7 and abolition bloc and Pioneer campsite: no electricity only at the abolition bloc. Open area along a river bed, nice view.

ACTIVITIES • • • • • • •

A very exciting leopard and cheetah drive Horse riding Game drive Hiking Scenic mountain drive Birdwatching Long distance hiking trails (4 and 6 days)

Tel: +264 61 232 572 • Fax: +264 61 257 112 • Reservations: +264 81 864 3000 Emergency: + 264 81 124 1662 • info@duesternbrook.net • www.duesternbrook.net Directions: On the new A1, North 29km North of Windhoek, take the exit D1499/Okapuka. From there it is well sign posted. 18km to the farmhouse.

SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • NAMIBIA

sanctuary here. Next stop is the aptly designed Shipwreck Lodge, where you’ll spend two nights and get the opportunity to spot desert-adapted giraffe, baboon, elephant and perhaps the elusive brown hyena in the dunes, while at the coast there’ll be hundreds of Cape fur seals and plenty of seabirds. The final flight will take you across the beautiful interior of the country, all the way to the capital city of Windhoek. If you still haven’t got your fill of nature’s wonders after these six days, you can extend your itinerary to the world-renowned Etosha National Park for some amazing game viewing. For more information, visit naturalselection.travel/safari/ namibia-flying-safari

Natural High Skeleton Coast Flying Safari This three-day flying safari not only

takes you over the Skeleton Coast but also to impossibly remote and beautiful sections on the ground. Along for the flight are the Schoeman brothers, whose family business was founded by father Louw, a South African lawyer who came to Namibia to work for a mining company and then fell in love with the Skeleton Coast. Putting his pilot’s licence to good use, he took friends for flights over the vast expanse of desert, and soon had more customers. He established tented camps here, and almost single-handedly got the Skeleton Coast National Park established and protected in 1970. His four sons are all expert bush pilots with extensive knowledge of the desert and the locals who occupy part of the Skeleton Coast. After Louw’s death, his sons continued plying their trade and have perfected their flying safaris. Founder of Natural High, Alex Edwards, relates his own experience

years, the sands have encroached on the ocean, and the ship has gradually become stranded in the desert. The wreck currently sits about 500 metres from the ocean. It’s on toward Conception Bay and Sandwich Harbour, where the giant sand dunes run straight into the ocean. The lagoon, salt pans and bird sanctuary—forming the Walvis Bay Wetlands—are heralded as the single most important coastal wetlands of southern Africa, and one of five Ramsar sites in Namibia. After touching down in Swakopmund for a lovely beach lunch, it’s back to the skies for an incredible flight over the Atlantic coastline and the dramatic Skeleton Coast with its crashing waves and rolling dunes, and onward to the Hoanib Valley where you can get back to terra firma and visit the local Himba communities. Be sure to keep a lookout for the desert-adapted lion, rhino and giraffe that have

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of a flying safari with the Schoeman brothers: “Picked up in Swakopmund by the highly charismatic Henk Schoeman, youngest of the four Schoeman brothers, we were whisked away at what would have been treetop height if there had been any. “Over three days we flew over massive seal colonies, skimmed over impossibly beautiful dune fields that stretched as far as the eye could see. From the rocky Khomas Hochland west of Windhoek, over the red sands of the Namib and up the thrashing

Atlantic Coast, the journey is one of continual change. Flying low in a Cessna 210, you can really appreciate the beauty of nature’s design, and every now and then, you set down to get a closer look. “By day we ... landed on beaches in the middle of nowhere, touched down in remote desert canyons that felt like they’d never seen a human, flew in intense evening light over magical landscapes populated with magnificently marked oryx, drove and ran down monstrous dunes, and crawled into caves to discover

bushman rock art. “By night we … slept in the Schoeman’s wonderfully old-school camps, ate like kings, drank plenty and laughed a great deal, which isn’t hard to do in the relaxed company of Henk.” He lists his highlights: tracking desert elephant; drives into the ‘roaring’ dunes of the Skeleton Coast in 50-year-old Land Rovers, held together with rust and barnacles; and landing off-piste in impossibly remote deserts for walks into ancient canyons to examine the geology and get a glimpse of ‘living fossil’ plants. Edwards’ advice for those seeking to emulate his adventure? “The danger these days, with too much information too readily available, is that you might—if you’re unlucky— discover too much about this trip before you get there. All I can say is that this would be a real shame. Resist the urge to over-research this, trust to more than 40 years of Schoeman know-how, and you’ll most likely be letting yourself in for a treat that you’ll never forget.” So, what are you waiting for? Take to the skies and be enthralled by the experience. You’ll be on cloud nine! See www.naturalhighsafaris.com for further details.

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Where luxury and wilderness collide on the banks of the Okavango River

Divava Okavango Resort & Spa is Namibia’s hidden wildlife paradise in the Zambezi Region, where time stands still. The Resort is nestled amongst majestic trees on the banks of the Okavango River, sharing common borders with the renowned Popa Falls.

Bagani Area – Okavango River C48, West Zambezi Namibia – +264 (0)66 259 005 – info@divava.com - www.divava.com

Probably the most unique lodge next to the Sossusvlei

Le Mirage Resort & Spa is situated 21 km from the Sesriem gate to Sossusvlei. This makes it one of the lodges closest to the Sossusvlei and the ideal place to stay when you want to visit the highest dunes in the world!

C27, Sesriem, Namib Desert, Namibia – +264 (0)63 683 019 – info@mirage-lodge.com – www.mirage-lodge.com

Reservation Office

Divava Okavango Resort & Spa

Reservation Destination P.o.Box 11633, Klein Windhoek, Namibia Tel: +264 (0) 61 224712 Fax: +264-88-637655 E-mail: divava@resdest.com

Bagani Area – Okavango River C48, West Zambezi Namibia Route and directions Tel: +264 (0) 66 259 005 Fax: +264-88-637655 E-mail: info@divava.com www.divava.com

Divava Okavango Resort & Spa, Zambezi, Namibia Where luxury and wilderness collide on the banks of the Okavango River

ivava Okavango Resort & Spa is Namibia ’s hidden wildlife paradise in the Zambezi Region, where time stands still. The Resort is nestled amongst majestic trees on the banks of the Okavango River, sharing common borders with the renowned Popa Falls. There are 20 luxurious chalets located on a high river bank with a large deck, giving you an incredible view of the Okavango river. The Resort ensures that guests enjoy and experience all possible comforts in the tranquil setting of the Okavango River. The Spa is designed to look similar to the huts of the local residents with each treatment room facing the Okavango River. Divava Okavango Resort & Spa really is one of its kind in the Zambezi region of Namibia, ideal for individual travelers wanting to explore the Okavango, so well known for its excellent and diverse wildlife encounters. Sink into the call of the wild with a natural soundtrack of the Popa falls’ rafts in the background.

Reservation Office

Le Mirage Resort & Spa

Reservation Destination P.o.Box 11633, Klein Windhoek, Namibia Tel: +264 (0) 61 224712 Fax: +264-88-637655 E-mail: lemirage@resdest.com

C27, Sesriem, Namib Desert, Namibia Route and directions Tel: +264 (0)63 68 3019 Fax: +264-88-637655 E-mail: info@mirage-lodge.com www.mirage-lodge.com

Le Mirage Resort & Spa is probably the most unique lodge next to the Sossusvlei Privacy and a magnificent view Our Mystique Spa offers its guests the opportunity to reinvigorate themselves in stress relieving or rejuvenating massages in our Spa. We have a variety of massage rooms, an Ancient massage area and a Jacuzzi.

The Rooms Le Mirage’s very spacious rooms have large beds, airconditioning, a safe, a mini bar and coffee & tea facilities. The thick rock walls will keep your rooms nice and cool and protect you from the harsh desert outside. The private blaconies are great for watching the sundowners or just a coffee break.

Sunrise and Sundowner Guided Quad Bike Excursion Following the trails in the desert with a guide, you will experience the breathtaking nature and surroundings of Le Mirage. The trails will take you to some unique spots and our guide will inform you on the hidden secrets of the desert like the fairy circles.View a magnificent sunrise or sunset over the Tsaris Mountains surrounded by the majestic dunes.

Le Mirage Restaurant

Sossusvlei Excursion

Let the eventful days come to an end around the open fire pit of the sundowner platform followed by our 5-course cuisine at candle light in the restaurant, or, for the romantic special event, in our very unique wine cellar.The elegant restaurant serves international cuisine and wines, and at each diner there is a special selected menu, with two different options for the main course. Breakfast is being served as a buffet. And warm dishes can be ordered from the Kitchen like eggs.

For those who want to enjoy a guided tour to Sossusvlei, be brave and challenge some of the highest dunes Southern Africa has to offer, we strongly recommend a Sossusvlei Drive. Along the way you will see some of the worlds highest dunes, even some petrified dunes and the Sesriem Canyon. Private Sossusvlei Drive available on request

CONSERVATION

WANTED DEAD OR ALIVE How the lucrative trade in African primates threatens their survival

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CONSERVATION

he trade in African primates is a hugely lucrative endeavour. Every year it involves hundreds of thousands of animals, and threatens the survival of wild populations. Marilyn Norconk explains why this is big business and what can be done to put a stop to it.

Which primates are being traded the most, and between which countries? The primate trade can be local or international, legal or illegal. It’s complex and often secretive, since most primates are legally protected from hunting and exportation. International agencies, such as the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, try to regulate and document the trade of animals and plants to protect them from over-exploitation. The illegal trade, which Interpol now recognises as “wildlife crime”, is difficult to track but of deep concern, since about 60% of primate species are now threatened with extinction. In 2017, the Observatory of Economic Complexity reported that

primary exporters of primates were Asia (55%) and Africa (25%), simply because most primates are indigenous to tropical habitats. The primary importers were North America (50%), Europe (31%) and Asia (19%). Because of the illicit nature of the trade, it’s hard to know exactly how many animals of each species are traded, alive or dead, each year. But to give some idea, the average value of the market for African live apes— bonobos, chimpanzees and gorillas—is somewhere between US$2.1 million and US$8.8 million each year. A single infant or juvenile chimpanzee is estimated to be worth as much as US$70 000 on the international market. In relation to bushmeat, in West Africa it’s estimated that 150 000 primates (from 16 species) enter the bushmeat trade in Nigeria and Cameroon each year.

Why, and how, are primates being trafficked? The trade in live and dead primates is lucrative because of a high demand. Live primates are in high demand for the pet trade and for

entertainment such as circuses, films and commercials. Some of the most targeted African primates for the pet trade include chimpanzees, barbary macaques (from Morocco), lemurs (from Madagascar) and galagos (bush babies). Barbary macaques from Morocco, usually illegally exported to Europe, provide a well-documented example. Young macaques are poached from the wild to be used as pets in the international market, and as photo props and pets in Morocco and Algeria. The trade in macaques, in addition to habitat loss, has caused a massive decline to just 4 000 to 5 000 monkeys, down from an estimated 17 000 in 1975. Young primates also often enter the illegal pet trade stream as a side effect of bushmeat hunting. In a common scenario, an infant that survives the killing of its mother for food could remain in the village as a pet or be sold to a local animal trader for the international market. While the live trade is huge, the bushmeat trade—for food or magic— also takes a huge toll on primate populations. Approximately 8 000

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chimpanzees, gorillas and bonobos are killed each year for food. In Nigeria, chimpanzee body parts are widely sought after for magic. African pottos are also hunted extensively and used in traditional medicine or for food in several west and central African countries.

What’s the impact of the trade? The impact of the live primate trade on wild populations is a serious problem because, along with the issue of habitat loss, it can threaten the survival of a species. For instance, the chimpanzee population has declined from an estimated 600 000 individuals to less than 250 000 since the 1960s. This is primarily because of deforestation and bushmeat trade. Because primates are slow breeders, their populations don’t recover quickly. The period between births is often longer than two years. For the African apes (chimpanzees, bonobos and gorillas), inter-birth intervals may exceed four years. The combined impact of the trade in live primates and habitat loss is very worrying. About 60% of primates are listed by the International Union

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for Conservation of Nature as “vulnerable” or “threatened with extinction”. Madagascar’s lemurs are now the most threatened group of mammals in the world. The effect is not only about numbers extracted from the wild population. The impact on individuals is tragic. Primate infants are physically and emotionally vulnerable without their mothers.

What can be done to address this? There needs to be a change in behaviour to reduce the demand for primate pets. The trade is currently driven by a thriving international market for pet primates. And social media now helps to drive this as an increasingly popular platform to advertise and trade the wildlife. Potential consumers must be made aware that young primates have a very low chance of survival during capture and transportation in the pet trade. In primate habitat countries, better training and higher wages for wildlife officers are critical to reducing the pet trade. So is community education. A good example of this is from the Jane

Goodall Institute, dedicated to the conservation of chimpanzees. It has adopted a community-centred conservation approach that relies on co-operation between three distinct entities: law enforcement, environmental education programmes and sanctuaries. Also important is the safety of confiscated animals. Some will be released back into the wild, but because many will have been taken when they were young, they would need to learn to find food, avoid predators and build a social community. This means many will end up living in sanctuaries for the rest of their lives. The primate trade is complex. Ultimately, to put an end to it, we need better enforcement of existing laws, and people in exporting and importing countries must be better educated about the negative impact of the trade on individuals and potentially an entire species. Marilyn A. Norconk is Emeritus Professor at Kent State University. This article first appeared on TheConversation.com.

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