gorton 100 Best Viewed from Within “The Gorton 100 was a lot of people with the same idea coming together to make one voice and to change people’s ideas of Gorton” “The way in which the community worked together and came up with so many different ways to celebrate the year was marvellous. From the arrival of K1, the Rushcart, the lantern procession or wearing fancy dress, it was a celebration of Gorton by Gorton people”
reproduced courtesy of north and east manchester advertiser
At dusk; moody, majestic Debdale
introduction
There is a common perception or, more accurately, a misconception, about what someone can expect to find when visiting a bustling, busy city community such as Gorton. Most of the assumptions, inevitably, tend to be based on snapshots – either from sensational snippets of news, misinformed gossip or, more usually given the high-speed lifestyles of the 21st century, from hurtling along, and straight past, Gorton on the A57 corridor to the M60 and all points beyond. Superficially, Gorton appears to be a typical, not-much-to-recommend it, jaded, faded, linear suburb of the City of Manchester. So much for superficiality – there is nothing, absolutely nothing, typical about Gorton. Conversely, as the good people of Gorton set out – and my, how they succeeded – to show throughout 2009 there is much that is utterly unique, distinctive and gloriously original about this community of close-on 30,000 mostly generous, warm-hearted souls. To put it simply, Gorton has its very own style, the sort that novelist Gore Vidal recognised when he said, “Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn.” This book attempts to capture that ‘style’ rather than just chronicling a series of events, celebrations and extraordinary gatherings that took place in Gorton in 2009 to mark the ‘village’s’ incorporation into the City of Manchester exactly 100 years before. It’s an uphill task, of course, because Gorton’s community is as varied as it is vibrant, as proud as it is particular, and as complex as it is colourful. Fingers crossed though, what this book does achieve is to let the people of Gorton do the talking – but not just by expressing in words how they see themselves, their community, their heritage
and their hopes for the future. This is very much a visual account or, more exactly, an evocative presentation of the ‘real’ Gorton and its people through their involvement in a year-long centenary celebration. The Gorton 100 illustrated just what can be done by so many people working together to achieve a common goal. Or, as an Ethiopian proverb explains far more poetically; when spiders’ webs unite they are strong enough to tie up a lion. This book, then, is a vivid graphic statement of what makes Gorton and its community precisely what it is: Distinctive, Proud, Friendly, and Positive about the past and the future. Hopefully, the book will surprise many people who are unfamiliar with the charms of Gorton, a location that covers a vast area just a few miles from the centre of Manchester. Some wellinformed folk will already have grasped that it is a lively community striving to reinvent and regenerate itself through working hard at building proper partnerships and making sure that what is done is then built upon. The meaningless one-off, flash-in-the pan, spin over substance projects don’t wash with the no nonsense folk of Gorton. Again, a few will also have caught feelgood snapshots such as the recent restoration of Gorton’s imposing Monastery of St Francis. This book, however, will take you ‘inside’ Gorton and give you a revealing visual glimpse of contemporary Gorton, as well as its past, by introducing you to its people – at play, at work and at celebration. It was our pleasure to spend 2009 making sure that Gorton enjoyed its spot in the centenary sunshine. It’s now your turn and pleasure to discover Gorton in a very different light. After all, it is a community that is best viewed from within. The Gorton 100 Committee
Debdale
gorton is bigger than you think – fingers on the buzzer, your gorton starter for 10
Gorton is bigger than you think – almost 683 hectares and that’s a whopping big size. Now, if you’re struggling to get your head around what a hectare is (actually, it’s about 10,000 sq metres or 2.4 acres but that may not help you visualise it) let’s put it this way… Gorton is as big as Manuel Antonio National Park in Costa Rica, as large as the Traisental wine growing region in Austria which is home to 706 grape growers and, continuing the plonk theme, as vast as the red wine vineyards in Western Australia. Now, whilst Gorton can’t boast about its vineyards it can blow its own trumpet about the fact that it possesses a conservation area filled with large Victorian terraces and, in Debdale Park, it has two large reservoirs where there’s sailing and canoeing but, better still, a magnificent great green space for everyone to enjoy. Gorton, as green as the eye can see
In fact, ‘Green’ Gorton, is a verdant sweep that takes in many hidden gems which are set to be revealed in this book. On top of that there is Gorton Park, Sunnybrow Park and Greenbank Park plus a cluster of smaller parks offering a useful supporting role to Debdale.
So what is the ‘Gorton Community’? “The people of Belle Vue, West Gorton, Sunny Brow, Abbey Hey and the other communities that make up the Gorton North and Gorton South wards and their character – honed by shared landscape and history and able to weave from our diversity an amazing tapestry of life”
Green Gorton – a persuasive reason to come out to play
If you must go indoors, there’s also plenty of distinction to admire, including the Monastery of St Francis, an inspirational 19th century church rescued recently by a £6.5m restoration programme. Gorton also has its own Gymnastic Centre, is home to The Manchester Climbing Centre, Belle Vue Greyhound Stadium, library plus youth and community centres.
“By getting involved in the Gorton 100 I learned about its rich and proud history”
But the place and this book is really all about the people who live there – almost 30,000 at present – and their character, spirit, enthusiasm, passion and pride for their Gorton. Over the last 150 years or more, like most communities in industrial locations, Gorton has experienced all the usual swings and twists of fortune involving massive developments and population explosion during the Industrial Revolution, the coming of the Railway Age and the boom period of British manufacturing and commercial expansion. This was then followed by slow and steady economic decline which hit hardest from the late 1960s onwards when the pride of Gorton, Belle Vue, tottered and finally toppled. The disappearance of this famous landmark of pleasure was hugely symbolic of the rough times ahead but, as the Gorton 100 showed, the ‘village’ is now regathering itself and regrouping forcefully so that the next century can be faced with a renewed vigour and determination. “I hope that this is the start of Gorton going forward looking to the future”
The once majestic Belle Vue reduced to rubble
Gorton Monastery post restoration
“Wow – the K1 making steam at Tesco car park with hundreds of amazed onlookers some not expecting a 100 yr old train to turn up Elegant outside the Brookfield Church the k1 parked as we honoured Beyer Peacock Look of wonder on Children’s and Adult’s faces at Debdale & Woodlands Funday to see Birds of Prey and all the fun stalls Laughs as we dressed up in our period costumes for the Funday at Aspinals School Dancing in the street by Morris Men & Women Raising £900 for Community Groups at the Rush cart event
And it’s even inventing its own myths and legends. In typical Gorton ‘style’ what’s this that’s lurking out in the Debdale reservoir…?
Organisation – how all the events came together with such great planning Night parade of the Lanterns though the streets of Gorton as 200 people marked the final event Excellent, breathtaking fireworks and music as we stood in amazement at the final Goodbye Event in Gorton Park”
The K1 looking ‘Elegant outside Brookfield Church’
Gorton: Some Place – Some People. Manchester struck lucky when it joined Gorton in 1909! Gorton 100 – all about making the future brighter
gorton ’s green and pleasant lands
Here’s a plea to anyone who thinks Gorton is but a long straight linear access route to the M60. Get off the A57 for a bit and take a look around. You’ll be surprised, probably even amazed, by what you find – a place that’s green, blooming and almost ‘village’ like in its rustic charms. And the good news, thanks to some sterling work by so many green fingered volunteers, is that Gorton is going to get even greener! Anyone who lives in an urban setting which is dominated by housing – no matter how architecturally endearing or pleasant on the eye – will be mightily envious of what Gorton has to offer. Compared to the majority of city ‘townships’, where space to play in acre upon acre of parkland is simply an unrealistic and impossible expectation, Gorton has plenty to recommend it. But words clearly aren’t the best way to show off Gorton’s green appeal so we’ll happily let the pictures do the talking. Here’s just a sample of how good Gorton looks – but you’ll have to get out of the car and off the A57 to find out for yourself…
Rustic magnificence in the heart of Gorton. Urban living doesn’t get much better than this
A typical scene in a Cotswold village? – no, it’s Gorton
“Still the best things are the people and the close proximity to Debdale and other open spaces. Saying we are so close to the city centre there is a lot of wildlife to be seen and green spaces and I find there is a village atmosphere which I really like”
It’s beautiful and people are already planning to keep it that way with projects like Debdale’s young orchard
Not the Debness Monster!
Whatever the season, Gorton looks great
Green Gorton is at its very best when it’s being shared by lots of people as at this Gorton 100 shindig
Gorton – so green that you’ve just got to dance
And, of course, Gorton’s green spaces are best enjoyed with someone you love It’s plenty of fun in a group too Gorton’s so good that it makes you want to climb to a great height and tell the world about it
And someone’s had such a good time that they’ve forgotten something very important
It’s not just the parks and wide open spaces that are beautiful. Not surprisingly, this ‘greening’ of a back entrance in the heart of Gorton won a prize in Britain in Bloom 2009 Helping green-fingered hands are at work everywhere in Gorton Rose Cusack getting on with making Gorton blooming marvellous image courtesy of manchester evening news
Denise Lawrence takes a well-earned rest after helping to transform a previously ‘ugly’ uncared for courtyard
Gorton Cemetery in 1907. A tranquil place of rest then and just as tranquil today
the more things change the more they stay the same How the Monastery dominated Gorton Lane in 1915
There’s no doubt that Gorton Monastery remains Cities are all about change. The process is as the single most impressive physical testament unstoppable; the very nature of modern to Gorton’s glorious past. But even it has only cities ensures that nothing stands still. It’s just survived the troubled years. Abandoned by something Disraeli commented on in the 19th developers 14 years ago and completely vandalised century when he said, “In a progressive country – virtually every one of its stained glass windows change is constant; change is inevitable.” was shattered and the roof was exposed to the So perhaps we shouldn’t be too surprised by the change that has ravaged Gorton over the past 100 years or so. Still, the extent measured pretty high on the Richter Scale of urban disruption. Whole swathes of housing swept away, communities dislocated, jobs and industry lost in huge, painful numbers, historic buildings left to rot and ruin, a vast leisure extravaganza bulldozed into oblivion and, worst of all, no immediate vision in place of how to rescue the situation.
elements, while the interior was damaged by fire – this gem of Gothic Revival architecture has now been restored.
And yet, all has clearly not been lost and nor have all the monuments to a once great Gorton. There have been aspects and edifices of Gorton’s long and proud history which have survived the mid20th century traumas of change.
The former church and friary, once listed by the World Monuments Fund as one of the top 100 endangered sites in the world, has now been lovingly restored to create a stunning space for weddings, banqueting and special events, an outstanding conference and meeting facility and a cultural and community venue.
It remains, though, thanks only to a decade of committed campaigning. A total of £6.5 million was raised through generous public donations and major grants from the Heritage Lottery Fund, English Heritage, The North West Development Agency, The Architectural Heritage Fund and European Regional Development Fund.
It is now one of Manchester’s most inspiring spaces. The Monastery, designed in 1863 by E W Pugin, whose father Augustus was the architect for the Houses of Parliament, is being safeguarded for the future. All the proceeds from events and activities held there are donated to the Charitable Trust which owns it.
Pre-restoration The Gorton 100’s finale in 2009, where The Monastery fully illustrated its promise to ‘bring out the best in everyone’
Another 19th century ‘survivor’ is the renowned Gorton Philharmonic Society whose own history stretches back even earlier than that of The Monastery. The orchestra was founded in 1854, only 27 years after the death of Beethoven, when Tchaikovsky was a boy of 14 and three years before the birth of Edward Elgar. This makes the orchestra one of the oldest in the North-West of England, being three years older than the Hallé. It was originally founded by a group of Gorton musicians who met in a Mr. Blackshaw‘s house in Brook Green Lane, Gorton, Manchester. The group initially augmented the organ accompaniment at the Aspinal Nonconformist Chapel but then enlarged to become the original Gorton Philharmonic Orchestra.
The orchestra has met regularly ever since at various places in Gorton and Reddish – at Aspinal Smithy, over the old Pomona Hotel at the corner of Reddish Lane, in the old Gorton Town Hall and, for many years, at Belle Vue Gardens, first in the Ballroom and then in the King‘s Hall. From 1887, the orchestra was privileged to give their first ‘Open Rehearsal’ at Belle Vue and continued to do so through the two World Wars. Originally concerts were given on the first Sunday in the month from 11am to 12.30pm between May and October. They were called “Open Rehearsals” because there was no charge for admission and the greater part of the audience was comprised of non-playing members and patrons. Through these ‘Open Rehearsals’, the Society succeeded in bringing the orchestra to the attention of a larger audience. In June 1945, the Belle Vue management requested that the concerts be in the evening and so, from 1946, evening concerts were given. The orchestra went from strength to strength and in 1950, the orchestra had 100 playing members and such was its stature that complaints from its audiences about the poor bus service from Belle Vue on Sundays resulted in five extra Manchester Corporation buses on the Hyde-Manchester route being put on at weekends! It was not unusual for the concerts to attract audiences of 1000 people. Concerts continued to be held at Belle Vue, the Free Trade Hall, the Renold Theatre and at Manchester Town Hall. The last concert at Belle Vue was held in September 1977. There was something wonderfully uplifting, then, that two of Gorton’s symbols of continuity across three centuries should be seen in tandem in Gorton’s centenary year. The Philharmonic duly returned to The Monastery in 2009 and presented another concert.
“From the hard work of the dedicated people Gorton was made great and with the same hard work of dedicated people anyone who has the time, passion and conviction it can be again”
While the fight for The Monastery has been won, the battle to restore Gorton House, another symbol of continuity in Gorton, is only just beginning. One of its oldest buildings and its last surviving grand gentleman's house was heading for demolition but thanks to Gortonbased academic, Janet Wallwork, it has a stay of execution. In 2009, Gorton House, a 200-year-old architectural treasure in Debdale Park, was granted Grade II listed status by English Heritage, which will protect the building from the immediate prospect of demolition. The Regency manor was built in the 1790s and originally occupied by wealthy textile merchant Robert Grimshaw, a member of a well-known local dynasty. It’s now going to be up to Gorton residents to rally and fight to acquire grants and raise funds to get the building restored and reopened. But, given the positive results being achieved across so many areas of Gorton, the crusade to safeguard the future of this once magnificent property should be guaranteed impressive support. This is especially so as it sits in Debdale Park, another heartwarming feature of long-term endurance in Gorton.
Janet Wallwork outside Gorton House image courtesy of north and east manchester advertiser
During World War II a bomb explodes in Gorton – nothing but a big hole at the bottom of the garden!
It remains a truism, though, that no matter how spectacular the buildings and constructs which survive the course of history, there are also strong and powerful beacons of humanity that shine just as brilliantly down the ages. For, as Pericles observed, “What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” And Gorton’s rich heritage is as much about the continuity of its resilient communities as its ‘stone and pastoral’ monuments. Even during the depths of wartime Britain, Gorton’s people remained perky and resolutely stoical.
overleaf And to escape the perils of German bombing, many Gorton youngsters found themselves packed off to safer quarters. Here’s a memory of a Gorton child being evacuated to Cheshire…
“I was evacuated to a little village in Hanley from a terraced house in when I was 5 years old. I was there for the whole of the war but the lady I was staying with was ill for a short time and I had to go back to Gorton to my mam and dad who’d moved to Brookhouse Flats and the blitz was on. I can remember we went in the shelter and it was horrible and smelly. I can remember looking across to Manchester and the sky was all red and orange with the fires. Everyone came out of the shelter and was looking cross”
“I was about 10 when we all enjoyed street parties in Casson Street to celebrate VE and VJ day.�
Another wonderful example of continuity and one that combines the physical with the community of Gorton, is told by Denise Rutland who is involved in so many of the positive developments currently taking place in Gorton. Recounting the story of the ‘Bells of Gorton’ she explains: “So the story goes… in the early 1870s both Richard Peacock (Unitarian) and Charles Beyer (CofE) decided that they were each going to build a new church. As the two new churches would be close to each other, the two partners made an agreement that whichever church was
completed first would be the one to have a peel of 8 bells installed. The rest is history. Richard Peacock’s Brookfield Unitarian Church was duly completed in 1873 just before Charles Beyer’s Church of England St James’ and the 8 bells were cast and installed at Brookfield Church. The Tenor bell has an inscription to Richard Peacock on it and the other 7 bells each carry the name of his wife, Hannah, and their children. The original bells and oak frame were replaced in 1932 by bells cast by Gillett and Johnson and a cast iron frame replaced the original oak one. In 2006, the
Brookfield bell ringers, having raised £25,000, celebrated the restoration work to the frame, tower and bells. They are now in fine fettle and good for another 100 years. If anyone fancies becoming a Brookfield bell ringer they are more than welcome to come and try their arm. Children over the age of 13 are also very welcome to come and learn to ring. We are proud of being a local band and would love to get more people from Gorton involved. Join us on a Friday night from around 7.45–9pm.”
Togetherness & Friendship in Gorton – passing on experiences from one generation to the next
“Gorton has a real strong sense of community!”
back to the future “The Gorton 100 gave me a chance to learn about where my family and I have moved to and being pleasantly surprised at how amazing it once was. In time, people will become proud again”
Let’s start with a bit of ancient Chinese wisdom: According to Confucius, you should study the past, if you want to divine the future. To overlook the significance of the past to the present is as foolish as planning for the future without any reference to the here and now. That’s why the Gorton 100 celebrations paid particular fulsome tribute to over a century of achievement, experiences, customs and points of distinction. “It was a year to be remembered for the fact that all Gorton people pulled together and shared all their precious memories from the past and hoped that the future would be as fulfilling” It was important not just to restate and illustrate afresh a few of those features which had made Gorton great in the past but also highlight traditions and shared experiences which have helped to shape Gortonians and the way they are today. It was also felt that many people who were new, or relatively new, to the area might enjoy seeing, hearing and reading about the unique nature of much of its past and, in particular, things that had made Gorton the pride of Mancunia.
The history making K1 – a Gorton 1st To start the proceedings, K1 was transported on a low loader from MOSI and positioned on the site of the old boiler shop in Gorton, where it was first tested in steam
This was particularly so with the desire to emphasise how one of the defining features of industrial development that made Britain the world’s first super power, the quest for the most efficient and reliable ‘locomotion’, flourished in the heartland of Gorton. If, as the great French writer Camus believed, every authentic creation is a gift to the future then Gorton’s role in delivering the Beyer-Garratt engine to the world was indeed a major bequest. As Steve Davies MBE, the Director of Manchester and Science & Industry Museum (MOSI) which helped the Gorton 100 enjoy a fantastic experience in August 2009, explained: “The development of the Beyer-Garratt marked a significant turning point in steam locomotive history. Garratt’s design allowed mass transport for thousands more people and larger amounts of freight per engine through some of the most difficult terrain in the world.” In taking the K1, the first Beyer-Garratt produced by Beyer Peacock, back to its birthplace in Gorton to celebrate 100 years since it first steamed off the production line, MOSI helped to create one of the most memorable moments of a wonderful year.
“I remembered as a child we lived three streets up from Beyer Peacock ( Evelyn Street) and when the new steam engines were being transported to their destinations we all ran to the street corner to watch them pass”
“I came to Gorton after the war in ’45 and have been here ever since. Joseph Hesketh was my grandfather and he worked at Beyer Peacock for years or, as it was called as well, The Tank. My uncle Herbert Hesketh worked there as well making the goods wagons and such like from the age of 14 until he retired. He was a manager over the toolshed after he had an accident”
The loco was also taken to Tesco and Gorton Market’s car park on Hyde Road
Record producer and railway enthusiast, Pete Waterman, who has his own Beyer-Garratt locomotive, launched the centenary event, with Mike Hart, General Manager of Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways, and Steve Davies MBE, Director of MOSI
The special significance of the Beyer-Garratt is easily explained. In its heyday, the Gorton company exported its steam locomotives all over the world. Back in the early 20th century, though, its standard products often had major problems handling difficult terrain overseas. In 1907 Herbert William Garratt designed an articulated locomotive to help trains cope with sharp bends and steep gradients. The locomotive type became known as the BeyerGarratt, and the design became so successful that a total 1636 Garratts were produced by various companies, which ran on 86 railways in no fewer than 48 countries. The K1 was exported to Tasmania where it hauled wagons carrying ore on the North East Dundas Tramway. It came back to Gorton in the 1950s and was then taken to North Wales where it is now a major attraction, pulling tourist coaches on the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways. Beyer Peacock was founded in Gorton, Manchester in 1854 by Charles Frederick Beyer and Richard Peacock. The factory closed in 1966 and the company became dormant although the name was resurrected in 1990 as a trading name, based in Devon.
The Gorton factory at its height employed over 2500 people. Former employees enjoy the return of the K1 to its Gorton roots An ‘open day’ at Beyer Peacock in 1930