AzaleaMagazineSummer2016

BARBECUE TOUR The 22 spots where you'll find the best of what the Lowcountry's got cookin' Pit Stop A pork sandwich with blue cheese slaw at Baker's BBQ

pg. 64

Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

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A Z A L E A

M A G A Z I N E

F E AT U R E S SUMMER 2016

Holy Smoke A pork plate at Sweatman's Bar-B-Que

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T HE POR K GR IN D

TIME IN A BOTTLE

The 22 spots where you'll find the best of what the Lowcountry's got cookin'

76

GR EENER PASTURES

Surrounded by an ever-growing town, Marymeade Farm is an unexpected gift of peace and quiet for passersby

Gentry Bourbon honors a life and a legacy, launching a new brand of history in the Lowcountry

Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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CONT ENT S

/ Summer 2016

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12 Editor’s Letter 16 Contributors FIELD GUIDE A brief look into our local culture 19 Seasonal Sweetgrass Baskets 20 Q&A Jennifer Howard 22 Etiquette The American Flag SOUTHERN LIFE 25 Southern Spotlight - Drink 30 Southern Spotlight - Food 34 Southern Spotlight - Art 37 Southern Spotlight - Conservation 41 Southern Spotlight - Food

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COLUMNS 45 Natural Woman

by Susan Frampton 49 Kids These Days

by Tara Bailey

53 Life & Faith

by Will Browning

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O N T H E C O V E R : Pulled pork sandwich from Baker's BBQ / Photograph by Dottie Rizzo 12

AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

OPEN HOUSE 57 The Phoenix of Gracefield An elegant Walterboro home rises from the ashes of a family tragedy 88 THE VILLAGE POET - Reunion

SOME PARKS ARE MAGICAL. They go far beyond the familiar play fields, slides and swing sets into a realm where trees grow tall over winding paths.

Gateways open onto secret places. Imaginations catch fire.

And screens are at least momentarily forgotten.

New homes from the mid $200s to $400+ | MOVE IN NOW Front Porch Info Studio | 142 Brighton Park Blvd. | Summerville Prices, specifications and availability subject to change without notice.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

A Few New Favorites For as long as I can remember, I've always felt the need to pick a favorite: a baseball player, a band, a car, a color, a number—it didn't matter what it was, I needed a favorite. When we started working on the cover story, “The Pork Grind: A Barbecue Tour” (pg. 64), I was excited to try them all and pick a favorite. I don't think, however, that I have the guts to put my pick in print; them's fightin' words.

I understand that barbecue purists will say it's all about the meat. I get it.

After all, the word barbecue means to broil or roast meat over hot coals or an open fire. But for me, I'm not able to commit 100% to that statement—it's mostly about the meat, sure, but not all.

For me, barbecue is about the whole experience—the meat, the atmosphere, the sides, the desserts, the smells. I preferred one place’s pulled pork and another's ribs, one's hash and another's banana pudding.

We visited 22 barbecue spots, each with their own take on this Southern culinary tradition. Try them all this summer and pick your favorite; or if you're anything like me, you'll end up with many new favorites.

Will Rizzo Editor in Chief

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Will Rizzo Co-Publisher and Editor in Chief will@azaleamag.com Dottie Rizzo Co-Publisher and Managing Editor dottie@azaleamag.com Susan Frampton Senior Editor Jana Riley Senior Editor Will Browning Faith Editor Charlie Sweeney Copy Editor Lewis Frampton Distribution Manager

Contributors

Tara Bailey Elizabeth Donehue Susan Frampton Ellen Hyatt Jessy Devereaux Mitcham Jana Riley Jason Wagener Amelia Weaver Daniel White

Advertising Susan Frampton susan@azaleamag.com 843.696.2876 Susie Wimberly susie@azaleamag.com 843.568.7830 Dan Riley dan@azaleamag.com 843.709.2464 Tina Zimmerman tina@azaleamag.com 843.276.5084

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AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

Azalea Magazine 114B E. Richardson Avenue Summerville, SC 29483 info@azaleamag.com www.azaleamag.com 843.478.7717

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CONTRIBUTORS

JANA RILEY / Writer

Jana Riley is a writer and editor living in Summerville. Her current favorite hobbies include having the world explained to her by her two year old daughter, Forest, and sharing warm snuggles with new baby Oscar.

JESSY DEVEREAUX MITCHAM /Writer

Jessy is a writer and the Social Media Coordinator for Azalea Magazine. Born and raised in Summerville, Jessy loves to spend her free time exploring the outdoors, hiking and kayaking around the Lowcountry with her husband and daughter.

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AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

SUSAN FRAMPTON / Writer

An accidental writer, Susan Frampton lives in Summerville, SC. Along with a fluctuating number of wiener dogs, chickens, turtles, snakes and the occasional pig, her husband and family provide endless material for her musings on life, love, laughter. Her life is full of adventure and comedy; and some days she contemplates having wine with breakfast.

ELLEN HYATT / Poet

Ellen is a fellow of the Western Pennsylvania Writing Project, professor, columnist, and appointee to the Board of Governors of the SC Academy of Authors. Her works have twice been the recipient of what the Poetry Society of SC refers to as “the big one� (the Dubose & Dorothy Heyward Society Prize).

JASON WAGENER / Illustrator

Jason started his illustrious art career when he won a coloring contest in third grade, subsequently entitling him proud owner of a Mickey Mouse dry erase board. He moved to the Lowcountry in 1990, and save an education at The Savannah College of Art and Design.

TARA BAILEY / Writer

Tara is a writer and editor for SCIWAY.net. She is a Palmetto State native, and lives in Summerville with her husband and three daughters.

Nine months pass quickly. From choosing a name to preparing the nursery, you are ready to welcome your little one into your family,

imagine more

Joy

and so are we. From pregnancy through childbirth, our skilled and compassionate healthcare team is here to guide you on your journey to parenthood. Having a baby is an experience unlike any other, which is why we add extra special touches to make your baby’s arrival even more memorable, including: • Spacious labor and delivery suites • An OB/GYN doctor on-site 24/7 • Immediate mom and baby skin-to-skin contact • Breastfeeding support • Newborn photos posted on our website • Brahm’s Lullaby played to announce your baby’s arrival To learn more about our maternity services, call 843-847-3463 or visit tridenthealthsystem.com/smc. Imagine more at Summerville Medical Center.

Women’s and Children’s Services

A B R I E F L O O K AT L O C A L C U LT UR E

Sweetgrass Basket

usslave.blogspot.com

Sweetgrass basket making is one of the oldest art forms of African origin in the United States

This basket making tradition came to SC in the 17th century by way of West African slaves

SC Sweetgrass baskets are almost identical in style to the shukublay baskets made in Sierra Leone

It wasn't until the early 1900s that basket artists began to use other materials like sweetgrass instead of bulrush

SC baskets are on display across the country, including at the Smithsonion's National Museum of American History

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The Lowcountry is special because there is an opportunity for anyone to live an inspired life.

Who or what are you a fan of ?

Authentic people with fun life stories.

Coffee or tea?

Hands down coffee—Coastal Coffee's Sexy Seven roast.

Q& A

J e n n if e r Ho wa rd

Director of Marketing & C o m m u n i c a t i o n s , We s t R o c k

What's one thing you've bought in the last five years that you couldn’t live without?

Crochet hooks. I've only been crocheting for a year or so. It provides me a time to sit quietly and reflect.

What's one thing you've bought in the last five years that you could go the rest of your life without?

Homemade wine making kit. What a disgustingly toxic disaster that was!

What is your favorite thing about living in the Lowcountry?

The Lowcountry is special because there is an opportunity for anyone to live an inspired life; town or country; arts performances or sporting events; beaches, rivers, or forests.

What is your dream job?

I sure would love to take the job of Julie on "The Love Boat!"

Is there a motto that you live by?

Life's a journey. Enjoy the ride.

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AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

What is your favorite music?

Southern folk/rock/bluegrass played live.

What is your dream vacation?

Anything that involves "doing," not just "going." Rafting / camping the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon is high on the list.

Do you have a favorite Lowcountry getaway?

I love the southern end of Seabrook.

Camp St. Christopher has erected a large wooden cross that makes a peaceful place to watch the sunset. AM

Our new elementary school sprouts in August.

Sand Hill Elementary is part of top-rated Dorchester District Two. And it’s right in the heart of our community in the garden.

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ELIZABETH DONEHUE

Arbiter of social graces, with a heart for simple hospitality and a tendency for adventure, Elizabeth lives in Summerville with her husband Wesley, baby boy Harlowe, and yorkie Gucci.

When Alaska and Hawaii became states 49 and 50, President Eisenhower received thousands of ideas for an updated flag. Robert G. Heft, a 17-year-old student at Lancaster High School, created the design that we use today for a class project.

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AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

Etiquette

The American Way

The American Flag is the premier symbol of our patriotism and proclaims our country’s commitment to freedom. With July 4th just around the corner, let’s brush up on the rules and customs governing the flag’s care and display.

by Elizabeth Donehue

TIPS FOR CARING FOR AND DISPLAYING OLD GLORY Caring For The Flag

The flag should be raised briskly and lowered ceremoniously.

The flag should never touch the ground.

The flag, when damaged or worn, should be destroyed in a dignified way by burning—the American Legion and the Boy Scouts of America are two organizations that offer these services at no charge.

Displaying the Flag

Display the flag between sunrise and sunset.

The flag may be displayed 24 hours if illuminated in the darkness.

The flag should not be displayed in inclement weather.

Only fly the flag upside down as a sign of distress.

The flag should not be used as a drapery or decoration. Bunting is available for this purpose.

The flag should not be worn as clothing.

Federal law stipulates many aspects of flag etiquette. If you have additional questions or want to learn more, the laws can be found in detail in the United States Flag Code. AM

Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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. . .

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Audubon Center & Sanctuary at Francis Beidler Forest 336 Sanctuary Road Harleyville, SC 29448

Silver Bluff Audubon Center & Sanctuary 4542 Silver Bluff Road Jackson, SC 29831

SOUTH CAROLINA

.org

Southern L I F E & C U L T U R E from O U R L I T T L E S L I C E of T H E S O U T H

Steeped in History On the outskirts of Charleston, a working plantation carries on the ancient art of tea farming

by Jana Riley Small & Mighty

The humble tea leaf

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Steeped In History

It

is a warm spring day at the Charleston Tea Plantation on Wadmalaw Island, just after opening time, and the morning dew hugs the tender leaves atop thousands of camellia plants.

At the Visitor’s Center, a chalkboard encourages guests to share the name of their hometown, and as the visitors arrive the board fills up with locales near and far. The air becomes thick with conversation, a melting pot of languages and dialects, as the people board trolleys that tour the grounds. Excited, the riders crane their necks to see the fields, snapping photos as they go. This is a special place, a world-renowned destination: this is the only tea plantation in the continental United States.

The United States is a coffee-centric nation, a place where a cup of joe is virtually never out of reach, and the country’s relationship with tea is fairly loose and relatively new. But elsewhere in the world, tea has a firm standing: permeating cultures, customs, and traditions on every continent for centuries. Tea is consumed more than any other beverage on the planet aside from water, and plantations are abundant in Asian, 28 AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

African, and European countries. In America, though, there exists only one true tea plantation, and that is right here in South Carolina.

In 1799, André Michaux, botanist to King Louis XVI, presented Henry Middleton with a number of plants for his Charleston plantation, including the Camellia japonica, an ornamental shrub in the camellia family. When the plant thrived in the Southern climate, it became clear that the Camellia sinensis, the variety from which tea is created, would likely also grow well in the area, and several attempts were made to grow tea in the Southern states. Perhaps the most well known was the work of Dr. Charles Shepard who, in 1888, founded the Pinehurst Tea Plantation in Summerville. The teas of Pinehurst Plantation were consumed far and wide, and one variety even won first prize at the 1904 World’s Fair. Dr. Shepard worked tirelessly to propagate the most ideal Camellia sinensis until his death in 1915, and with no heir interested in continuing his legacy, the plantation shut down, and the plants grew wild for the next forty-eight years.

Tea Time Harvesting tea with the Green Giant; Master of the leaf, William Barclay Hall; Dirt roads and woven oaks establish a classic Southern landscape on the plantation; A tour group observes thousands of tea plants in the main greenhouse.

In 1963, the Lipton tea company established an experimental tea farm, intending to study how feasible it would be to grow tea in the United States in the event of the world’s supply becoming inaccessible.

The company purchased a former potato farm on Wadmalaw Island, transplanted Dr. Shepard’s tea plants from Summerville, and spent decades conducting research, analyzing tea plants, and propagating new varieties. When Richard Nixon opened up trade with China, it became clear that there would likely never be a dearth of tea in the United States, and by the late 1980s, Lipton was no longer conducting necessary research on the viability of tea growing in the country.

Around the same time, the tea plantation caught the attention of a Mr. William Barclay Hall.

William Barclay Hall, known to his friends as just “Bill,” is a tea man if there ever was one. A third-generation tea taster, Bill received his formal training in London, the center of the world tea trade. For four years, his apprenticeship involved tasting between 800-1000 cups of

tea every day, five days a week, until he was certified in differentiating between the subtle nuances of flavor in the beverage. Upon arrival back in the States, Hall settled into life as a tea buyer and seller. It was on his way to a tea convention that he read an article about the history of tea in America, authored by Lipton. The article asserted that growing tea in the United States was unfeasible as a lucrative business, which Hall read as a challenge. After the convention, he flew to Charleston, visited Summerville’s public library, and researched Dr. Shepard’s tea plantation and what became of it. Hall soon found that Lipton had transplanted most of Shepard’s tea plants to a research station out at Wadmalaw, and used his connections in the tea industry to gain access to the farm. He purchased the plantation, converted it to a commercial operation, and eventually came to partner with Bigelow Tea Company in 2003, forging a relationship with “Mr. and Mrs. Bigelow” that has cemented the notoriety and success of the American Classic Tea brand.

These days, the 127-acre farm boasts 320 varieties of tea plants, a mechanical picker, a processing facility, a bustling visitor’s center, and

Steeped In History

Living History Clockwise from top left: Green leaves making their way through the processing facility; Leftovers from processing the tea leaves, the stems are recycled into mulch; Majestic oaks dot the plantation’s 127 acres; A mechanical harvester glides over the perfectly groomed rows of tea plants. Opposite: Visitors board a tour trolley; The gift shop and tasting room is worth the trip alone.

William Barclay Hall, known to his friends as just “Bill,” is a tea man if there ever was one.

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a trolley tour, and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Charleston area. Visitors to the plantation enjoy complimentary access, tea tastings, and factory tours, while trolley tours are available for a small fee. Open seven days a week, the tea plantation is a beautiful, accessible look into the historical relationship our country has with the world’s favorite beverage. AM The Charleston Tea Plantation is open Monday-Saturday from 10-4 and Sundays from noon-4.

R E S P O N D I N G to the P R E S E N T P R E PA R I N G for the F U T U R E

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Open For Business The market, open seven days a week, calls to passers by; Fresh and preserved produce is always on special.

SOUTHERNSPOTLIGHT King's Farm Market:Food

Roadside Wonder

King's Farm Market is a delicious detour; If you pass it, turn around.

by Jana Riley

There is nothing like summer in the South. The longer days beckon to soak up the sun, take life a little slower, and enjoy the wealth of outdoor adventures the region has to offer. It is in summer that previously uncharted territory seems ripe for discovering, and roads untraveled call to be trodden. Dirt paths, unfamiliar turns, curious shops, and interesting eateries lie in wait for the season’s explorers, and the truly special locations will grasp hold of a traveler’s heart, establishing a place in their memory for years to come. For many visitors and locals, King’s Farm Market on Highway 174 near Edisto is their unforgettable place, the epitome of a quaint roadside stand, a 32

AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

necessary detour that grabbed their attention as they drove in search of that Summer Something.

If one were immersed in getting to nearby Edisto Island or Botany Bay Plantation, their mind focused on directions or plans, King’s Farm Market may be easy to miss. But what a mistake it would be, to plan any adventure to this side of the Lowcountry without pulling the car into the gravel lot at King’s. A sign near the road lists seasonal offerings: strawberries in spring, sweet corn in summer, wreaths in winter, and always their signature Key Lime Pie. While the produce is enticing, it is the Key Lime Pie, featured here hundreds of miles from its origins in Florida, that often has visitors making the fastest u-turn possible. At just over ten dollars for a whole, homemade pie, the tart treat never disappoints and is the market’s most popular item. Inside the tin-roofed, open air shop, deliciousness abounds. Coolers line the walls, offering frozen and refrigerated goods including prepared meals, pies, cheeses, and meats. Acrylic cases showcase freshly baked goods and pastries. Shelving holds preserved and pickled delights.

Tables overflow with seasonal produce. Depending on the month, farm hands are often busy hauling in freshly picked berries, which

While the produce is enticing, it is the Key Lime Pie, featured here hundreds of miles from its origins in Florida, that often has visitors making the fastest u-turn possible. regularly disappear as fast as they can pick them. A visit to King’s Market could be enough to stock a pantry for a week at the beach, if eating strictly delicious and locally sourced food is your thing.

Over the 14 years Bonnie and Rett King have owned and operated King’s, they’ve happily become accustomed to the various types of customers who come to shop. They have their regulars, their tried-and-true: the local residents who they can count on to stop in for their weekly produce, freshly-cut flowers, and favorite pies.

They have their semi-regulars: the customers who always swing by on their way to and from their Edisto Island retreats, often with a cooler in tow to transport pies, dips, and casseroles back to Charleston. They even have annual regulars: the out-oftown visitors who have become like old friends, who always make sure to stop in and load their car up on their yearly trip down Highway 174.

And then there are the newbies, the beach-goers, the day tripping types who the Kings often see passing the market, making a u-turn, and pulling into their lot. They’re the ones who stand in awe of the place, seemingly unable to believe that little roadside Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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RoadsideWonder Fresh Picked Clockwise from left: U-Pick berry fields offer a fun and enticing activity; The market serves as a meeting place for locals and visitors alike; The unique location on Highway 174 feels like a step back in time.

markets like this still exist in the world of 2016, off the beaten path and blissfully untouched by major real estate developments and fastmoving technology. After a scoop of seasonal, homemade churned ice cream, a jaunt in the U-Pick berry fields, or a bite of the King’s popular tomato pie, the newbies soon become regulars themselves.

Perfect though it may be, King’s Farm Market is far from contrived.

While the cut wildflowers in little glass vases, homemade jams and jellies, woven baskets hanging from the ceiling, and other odds and ends seem expertly chosen strictly for their ability to add whimsy and charm to the space, the market is truly an exercise in evolution, a retail

year old son. Over the years, the table has transformed into the large covered space that the store inhabits today, though the dirt floor remains constant.

Still growing as much as they can sell, the Kings have expanded their offerings in response to the request from customers: tomato pies and other take-and-bake meals at the suggestion of a weekly regular, baskets for beachgoers, grass-fed meats for weekend grillers, and bottled sauces for those looking to take a taste of the South back home. Settled into their role as an honest-to-goodness Edisto institution, the Kings have no plans to move or change too much in their future, and hope to continue to offer their reliably exceptional service, produce, and meals for years to come.

Still growing as much as they can sell, the Kings have expanded their offerings in response to the request from customers: tomato pies and other take-and-bake meals answer to the needs of the community and the King family. As sixth generation Edisto farmers, the Kings began their foray into roadside stands with a tent, a table, and an encouraging word to their sixteen

Just ten minutes from Edisto Beach, King’s Farm Market is the quintessential roadside market. It is a place of refreshment, of nourishment, and of respite from travels. It is a place where you are likely to get a “hey darlin’” with your ripe peaches and blackberries, and fall in love with the spirit of the coastal life. In a fast-paced world, the roadside market is a retreat from the noise and bustle of everyday life, a step back to simpler times, and at King’s, the experience is not one to miss. AM

Handcrafted soy candles with locally-inspired scents like Avenue of Oaks, Azalea Park, and our exclusive Summerville Rain scent.

Available in jars, tins, and wax melts. $7 - $22

Sample the South with our Tea Sampler Box, featuring Charleston Plantation Tea and Savannah Bee Company honey. $29.95

Whether you’re a native Southerner, or a recent transplant, these SC-made towels have a saying for everyone. $12 - 15

gift guide We have all the go-to Lowcountry gifts that you would normally have to drive to the Market to find! And don’t forget ― we’re the home of Summerville’s Best Gift Basket, too. Ready-to-go from $15, or customized from scratch in minutes.

Iconic Lowcountry Sweetgrass baskets, coasters, napkin rings and more, at a variety of affordable price points. $15 - 295

Four Green Fields Taking home the real thing might be problematic, but there’s nothing dif�icult to manage about these milk chocolate ‘gators made by the Island Fudge Shoppe on Hilton Head. $15

117-A “Short” Central Avenue, Historic Downtown Summerville fourgreenfieldsgallery.com | (843) 261-7680

Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm Sundays seasonally

Gullah Gourmet packages Southern favorites in snazzy wrappers, perfect for gifting. $8.50 - 24

Authentic Lowcountry �lavors of Charleston Gold rice, stone ground grits, cow peas, and �ish fry. $8.95 - 13.95

Our SC Sampler Basket has lots of local treats, great for just about any gift. Grab one ready-made, or have us build you a custom creation. $80

A locally-made favorite―perfect on burgers, roasted potatoes, omelettes...or just on the end of a spoon! $15

By popular demand! The Charleston Tea Plantation’s Hand Therapy is a creamy treat for dry skin, infused with their home-grown tea. $15.95

Picture Perfect Images from the "Charleston: One City, One Soul" project

SOUTHERNSPOTLIGHT One City, One Soul:Art

One City One Soul

Two Charleston area photographers focus their lens on unity and togetherness within the Holy City

by Jana Riley

Douglas Carr Cunningham and Iveta Butler are an unlikely pair. Cunningham is an “Old South” native, the son of a couple who struggled deeply with the difference in their skin colors, a 68-year-old man who speaks with clarity and time-tested wisdom. Butler hails from Slovakia, says her skin tone is “just white” and embodies a youthful exuberance, her accent thickening and waning as she excitedly shares her passions and observations. In another world, or another time, their paths would have likely been far removed, worlds away from one another­­­—be it geographically or socially. But as fate would have it, the two seemed to meet at just the right time, in just the right place.

Douglas Cunningham was born and raised in the Carolinas, and started out his career as a self-taught Navy photographer. He eventually went to school to study film photography, and worked as a military photojournalist until he retired in 1991, finding inspiration in other photojournalists who revealed various aspects of the human condition with their work. For a brief time, he ran a small photography business locally, turning out prints of weddings, sports, and other portraits, until he found a new calling in teaching photography.

Starting as an adjunct professor at Trident 36 AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

Technical College, he became the Program Director at the Charleston Center for Photography, taught classes and ran the darkroom at Redux Contemporary Art Center, and finally established CunningFox Photography Education where he teaches today.

Iveta Butler attended college in Slovakia and, after receiving a bachelor’s degree in

Mass Media, came to the United States for an internship. After traveling around the country a bit, she landed in Charleston and fell in love with the city. Having always been interested in photography, Butler set out in search of a darkroom for her own personal use, and found Cunningham beneath the rosy bulbs of the Redux photography darkroom. He soon became a teacher and mentor to her, educating her

on techniques and styles acquired over his decades of experience, and it was not long before the two were working side by side in the darkroom, sharing constructive criticism, ideas, and conversation with one another while working on their own projects. Over time, their mutual passions, observations, and introspections became clear.

“We saw the world very similarly,” Cunningham recalls, “Iveta came all the way from Slovakia, yet there were so many things she observed about American society that meshed with what I was seeing. We talked about those things a lot.”

Butler agrees. “We were so different, yet so similar,” she remembers. “And all of our conversations just kept coming back to this idea, this theory that everyone really is the same in so many ways. Somehow, that turned into us going to the streets and taking pictures together. And that became the ‘Charleston: One City, One Soul’ project.”

Over the course of a year and a half, the duo took to the streets of Charleston, asking passersby for permission to take their portraits, and posing three simple questions: “Where are you coming from?”, “Where are you going?”, and “What is your favorite thing?” They hit Upper King Street, Marion Square, Waterfront Park, Brittlebank Park, and many places in between. They stopped younger locals, older tourists, the well-to-do and the down-on-their-luck. They chatted with people of all colors, creeds, and class.

They even had a brief run-in with celebrity Bill Murray, though he was in a rush and unable to respond to their interview questions. They took film photographs of over a hundred people, and processed the negatives by hand in the darkroom together, connecting with their faces and stories again and again. As they reviewed the responses to their three questions, common threads began to emerge.

“We were trying to figure out what people were looking for in their lives—what is important to people,” Butler explains.

“Everyone had different answers to the questions, yet they were all the same, too.

To the second question, so many people responded that they wanted to be going to a place of happiness or peace.To the third, most people responded that their favorite thing was their family, or love, or their spiri-

tuality. Doug and I realized quickly that we really are all looking for the same things. I think it shows in the photographs.”

“When people take the time to get to know people who they perceive as different, they soon find out that they’re not so different after all,” Cunningham adds. “We really saw that with this project.”

As it happened, the first gallery exhibition of the “Charleston: One City, One Soul” project came just days after the tragic shooting at the Mother Emanuel AME Church downtown, an act that catapulted the city and nation into dialogue regarding racial diversity and racial unity. Cunningham and Butler decided to dedicate the project to the victims of the tragedy, and used the exhibition as an opportunity to raise funds for the church and the survivors. They later showed the project at the Charleston Library, and selected photographs will be featured on LCD screens at the Gaillard Auditorium during the Piccolo Spoleto Festival this year.

The two photographers acknowledge that over the course of the year and a half they worked together on this project, they grew right along with it, and they understand that while it may not address every aspect of unifying together as a city or nation, they hope it helps with keeping the dialogue open.

“We recognize that breaking down the divisions between races and classes in this country is like a puzzle­—we need to do a lot of small things to get the big picture completed,” says Butler. “Our project is one tiny piece of that puzzle, but we see it as an important one. Even if we just get ten people to think about being more unified, that’s progress.”

Cunningham agrees. “I like the idea that Martin Luther King, Jr. was trying to promote: the unity of all people in America as brothers and sisters together, without lines of race or class or anything else keeping us from communing in a heartfelt way. That’s what this is all about.” AM The “Charleston: One City, One Soul” project can be seen at the Gaillard Auditorium during the 2016 Piccolo Spoleto Festival. Follow the project Facebook page for updates on future exhibitions.

Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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Fresh Water A volunteer picks from the river; Bottles trapped in the marsh

SOUTHERNSPOTLIGHT S S WA F C : C o n s e r v a t i o n

Call of the River

The Annual Ashley River Clean-up is a labor of love for The Summerville Salt Water Angler Fishing Club

by Susan Frampton photos by Daniel White

The Ashley River shimmers in the morning sunshine. Graceful blue herons alight from the trees along the banks, and sleepy-eyed gators slip sluggishly from the marsh.

Stretching out long and lean beneath open expanses of sky, the river offers itself equally to all, caring not if you are a fisherman, recreational boater, or simply enjoy watching the dancing water’s ebb and flow from a folding chair on an oak-lined bluff.

Stretching out long and lean beneath open expanses of sky, the river offers itself equally to all, caring not if you are a fisherman, recreational boater, or simply enjoy watching the dancing water’s ebb and flow from a folding chair on an oak-lined bluff.

It beckons to all; but, there is an increasing desperation for those who listen closely to its voice.

There are those who know and love this

river, and feel a deep gratitude and sense of responsibility for the welfare of the ribbon of water running alongside sun-gilded marshes and grand oaks. On this clear, blue morning, one such group is gathered at Jessen’s Landing. They represent the Summerville Salt Water Anglers Fishing Club, which from its inception adopted the Ashley River as its home waters. Founder Ralph Phillips brought the family-oriented anglers together in 2011, “to develop a Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

39

Call of the River

A Day's Work Boats sweep the coastline. Opposite: One of the trash barges

membership interested in the sport of fishing, developing friendships, sharing experiences, conservation, and knowledge, and introducing others to the sport of fishing.”

The organization’s Annual Ashley River Clean-up, led by Committee Chair David Fladd, has brought together members and community volunteers to heed the cry of a river in distress. Fortified by donated coffee and doughnuts, young and old take to the water, in jon boats, kayaks, and fishing boats in a myriad of colors and sizes. Fladd estimates over fifty boats in the morning’s flotilla. Armed with big black trash bags, gloves, and long-handled trash pickers to extend their reach deep into the marsh, each boat heads toward its assigned area of the river. Throughout the day, strategically placed barges anchored along the river will receive 40 AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

filled bags, and provide replacement bags for the seemingly endless supply of refuse.

Some is a result of the late fall floods; the sad flotsam and jetsam of people’s lives swept away by the record-breaking torrent of water that arrived swiftly and without mercy. But most is the detritus left behind by irresponsible individuals with either no thought or complete disregard for the impact of their carelessness on the area’s flora and fauna, or on those who enjoy all that the river means to the community.

The sheer volume of debris that has accumulated in the last year is dismaying, and what starts out as a club project becomes intensely personal for those who hold the river dear. Cups, bottles, and bait containers, plastic bags, styrofoam coolers, and cans dot the shoreline. Near the utility

line crossing, discarded trash stretches across the marsh far beyond the reach of volunteers.

When the barges are hauled in at days end, their labor of love is rewarded by the announcement of their record-breaking collection of an astounding 11.5 tons of rubbish, more than 22,000 ponds.

It is maddening for participants to realize that this is just the tip of the iceberg, and to know there are those whose actions will continue to be injurious to the river’s fragile ecosystems; but gratifying to feel that they are in some small way a part of the solution.

When the barges are hauled in at days end, their labor of love is rewarded by the announcement of their record-breaking collection of an astounding 11.5 tons of rubbish, more than 22,000 pounds.

The river called, and once again, Fladd and his dedicated group of anglers were listening, answering with this mountain of black trash bags, and a renewed determination to give back to the river that gives so much to so many. They have whittled a tiny corner off the debt of gratitude owed, by paying it forward. As the last trailer departs from Jessen’s Landing, a sigh of thanks seems to rise from its swift-moving current. Today, these fishermen, friends, and families leave the golden marshes and oak-lined shoreline far better than they found it. Until next year, it’s up to the rest of us. AM For more info about the Summerville Salt Water Anglers Fishing Club and their annual cleanup, visit summervillesaltwateranglers.com.

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41

Summerville historic downtown

shopping guide

Shop, Dine, and Play in Summerville's historic district! Unique clothing boutiques, art galleries, antiques stores, and specialty gift shops make shopping a pleasure. An eclectic mix of restaurants will tempt the pickiest of palates, and year-round events make downtown Summerville a destination for all seasons.

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See all the classics - Lionel Trains, model cars, and more. shown $19 - $299

Train Town Toy & Hobby (843) 695-8944 TrainTownToyAndHobby.com

A large selection of Nora Fleming plates, platters, and minis. shown $45.50 Piazza Home 127 Central Avenue Mon-Fri 10a-5p, Sat 10a-3p

Made with the highest quality chocolate and infused with exotic ingredients. $8.75

We all have that one friend we can buy this for! $16

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Give the gift of Summerville! DREAM Dollars are redeemable at the businesses featured here, and dozens more. $10, 20, 25 Summer ville DREAM (843) 821-7260 SummervilleDREAM.org

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Machines, needles, thread, patterns, scissors, books, classes, encouragement...FABRIC! shown $3 fat quarters

EVENTS

Third Thursday: Author! Author!

Thursday, June 19 | 5pm - 8pm

Red, White, and Blue on the Green Monday, July 4 | 5:30pm - 9:30pm

Sweet Tea Festival Weekend

Thursday, September 15 - Sunday, September 18

People, Places & Quilts (843) 871-8872 PPQuilts.com

Reel Deal Daniel Nussbaum at the Ladson plant; a Z-Man lure in action

You have every right to be mad, my bubeleh. In fact, there is every reason to go a little meshugeh about the secret that your coackamamie friends have been keeping from you. While you’ve been schlepping across town for so-so breakfasts, uninspired lunches and yawn-worthy dinners, they’ve been sneaking off for morning cups of Charleston Barbedos Rum Coffee and handmade cheese blintzes, mid-day matzo ball soup and pastrami on twice-baked Jewish rye, and late afternoon duck liver mousse with cognac to help wind up a long day.

Oy vey! You must feel like a schmoe!

SOUTHERNSPOTLIGHT

Charleston Bakery and Delicatessen: Food

Lox’d and Loaded

With time-honored flavors and the atmosphere of a cultural gathering place, partners Kerry Botz and Randy Jarvis bring a new generation to the table.

by Susan Frampton

There are delis and bakeries in supermarkets, a little of this and that scattered around the Lowcountry, but only Charleston Bakery and Delicatessen offers the experience and quintessential flavors of a Jewish delicatessen and bakery. You don’t need a Yiddish dictionary to enjoy your visit, but the expressive language is so much fun, you’ll want to sprinkle a few of the colorful words into your vocabulary. (You can brush up on your Yiddish at http://grammar.yourdictionary.com/slang/jewishslang-words.html, or just say “gefilte fish” out loud to add a little zest to your day.)

The idea for the restaurant came to the partners while at the beach one day five years ago. Randy Jarvis, a professional cameraman, had come to town to film a documentary, and Kerry Botz was working at a hip, downtown eatery.

“You need to open a place of your own here,” Randy observed.

Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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Lox'd and Loaded

Table Manners Clockwise: Fresh desserts made in-house; A Cuban sandwich; The tomato pie is a diner's favorite

Thinking back to his childhood in a large Jewish family in Brooklyn and then South Florida, he suggested, “Let’s open a Jewish deli.”

It took plenty of chutzpah to envision the success that the partners would find in a niche market that had mostly become an endangered species in America. New York’s famous Zabar’s and Carnegie Deli aside, the labor-intense Jewish delicatessen business languished in modern times, with the staple ingredients found in its iconic dishes, once

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AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

celebrated as inexpensive and plentiful, becoming expensive and difficult to find.

But with a new generation discovering the cultural flavor, according to Ted Merwin, author of Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli, their timing could not have been better. Merwin writes, “After a long period languishing in the trenches of the hopelessly old-fashioned, it (the Jewish Delicatessen) is experiencing a nostalgic resurgence.”

Despite

sixteen-hour

workdays,

the

delightful pair brings out the most innovative side of each other. The unexpected phenomenon they operate in Summerville, opened when it outgrew their original location on Ashley River Road in Charleston, and they’ve never looked back.

They enjoy the ideal characteristics of a perfect partnership, in that each does what the other doesn’t like to do; but neither hesitates to give credit for the restaurant’s consistency and stability to their talented and loyal staff.

Kerry’s 35-year restaurant background has made her fearless in her culinary creations, and the delight she takes in her job is written on her face. Wrapping up samples of the incredible fare, it’s clear that she’s antsy to get back in the kitchen, confiding, “The kitchen staff is trying out a new pork chop dish today.”

Randy brings an electric enthusiasm to the business, his garrulous nature the perfect

counterpoint to Kerry’s quiet demeanor.

He bursts with passion for the restaurant’s diverse offerings, describing their ability to deliver special order cakes complete with birthday cards, and to meet ever-expanding catering services. Their unique shiva, or condolence catering, which delivers food to the bereaved during their time of mourning, involves a coordinator to ensure that a variety of fresh foods are delivered daily.

Located in the small strip center at the bustling intersection of Summerville’s Bacons Bridge and Dorchester Roads, you’ll find a steady stream of patrons dashing in and out at all hours of the day for coffee or milkshakes, sandwiches, pastries or desserts, and many more who come to nosh in an atmosphere that somehow manages to simultaneously encourage both quiet and solitude, and conversation among friends.

Some come in to study or work on projects, others meet to play chess, and Randy laughs that there has been more than one divorce settlement decided over knisches and Matzo Brei.

The bakery alone is an entire chapter in the book of delicious. Lox and bagels, French toast, omlettes and Big Flippin’ Pancakes; salads, gyros, mile-high tomato pie, and The Almighty Brisket are among the dozens of choices.

With breakfast and lunch menus loaded with options, there is no food group that goes unexplored. The bakery alone is an entire chapter in the book of delicious. Lox and bagels, French toast, omlettes and Big Flippin’ Pancakes; salads, gyros, mile-high tomato pie, and The Almighty Brisket are among the dozens of choices. The upscale dinner selections literally include The Holy Grail among its offerings, and a Wine Spectator Top 100 List of wines with which to toast L’chaim.

Though they aren’t open every day from sunrise to sunset, Charleston Bakery and Delicatessen’s hours of operation come pretty close. Come to their table Sunday and Monday, 7 am to 3 pm, and Tuesday through Saturday 7 am until 9 pm, to experience the best deli and bakery this side of New York City. AM 10597 Dorchester Road, Summerville, SC (843) 875-0630 charlestonbakeryanddeli.com

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45

N AT U R A L WOMAN

Bless the Beasts and the Children

I

by Susan Frampton

t had been a long time since we spent an afternoon at the ballpark. With no little sluggers at home anymore, we had sorely missed the opportunity to watch one of our own nervously stand on deck waiting a turn at bat, and the sound of childish voices chanting from the dugout, “Swing-batterbatter-batter!” So we jumped at the chance to attend a double-header of sorts, when two of our nephews had games on adjoining diamonds in Bluffton.

We would split our attention between the machine-pitch game of 7 year-old, Talon, and the team-pitch game of 10 year-old, Ross. We

chose seats in the bleachers allowing us to see both. Before his game started, the eldest glumly revealed that while his younger brother had a couple of home runs to his credit, he had yet to hit a homer this season. To encourage him, our daughter offered up a challenge.

She didn’t really expect the $100 reward to catapult him across the metaphoric line she drew in the sand, she merely hoped that the tease would add a little bang to his bat.

The odds of a payout seemed slim; right up until the instant Ross’s line drive slipped untouched through the second baseman’s legs, heading for the far reaches of the outfield like a guided missile. There was a collective gasp from our end of the bleachers, and he blew past

ILLUSTRAT IONS BY JASON WA G E N E R Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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N AT U R A L WOMAN

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third base as though chased by the devil himself.

Pure elation set his freckled face aglow with triumph, and we highfived each other in the stands.

It was amidst our tears of joy, and shouts of celebration that realization dawned; one of us would be bidding adieu to a Benjamin Franklin.

Pure elation set his freckled face aglow with triumph, and we high-fived each other in the stands. It was amidst our tears of joy, and shouts of celebration that realization dawned; one of us would be bidding adieu to a Benjamin Franklin. We laughed all the harder as he sauntered back to the dugout, wriggling his fingers together in anticipation of the big league payday.

I knew exactly how it felt to lose that bet. Twenty years earlier I dangled the same outrageous carrot in my daughter’s flushed and discouraged face. She had also been in a slump, and I had hoped to give her a moral boost; never imagining in a million years that I’d later count out one hundred one dollar bills into her calloused little palm.

It had been the best money I had ever spent, and a moment that she had obviously never forgotten. I knew the same would be true for her and this 48 AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

newly confident ballplayer.

Within just a few minutes, on the diamond next door, Talon knocked a double. With his short legs pumping furiously, he dramatically (and completely unnecessarily) slid to second base, in a billowing cloud of red clay. At the end of a night that would see both teams victorious, it would take some explaining to make him understand that though his logic was sound, his double didn’t earn him approximately half the amount his brother would receive for a home run. But pride in his brother’s accomplishments won out over disappointment, and he spent his postgame snack time circulating among his teammates, pointing to his brother and saying, “Did you hear? My brother got a hundred bucks!”

The boys’ games weren’t the only reason for our visit. We’d also come to assume custody of the family’s flock of chickens. Plans for the family’s new house would displace the birds from their custom coop on a sprawling, oakstudded piece of Lowcountry real estate. It was no small honor to be asked to adopt the lovely layers. The two rambunctious boys had helped raise them from tiny peepers, and knew the name, species, eccentricities and eggcolor of each separate hen. It was clear that the devotion was mutual, and a joy to watch the connection, and how seriously the boys took their responsibility.

Though sad to lose their pets, they earnestly schooled us on the requirements of each member of our new feathered family. Satisfied that we knew our chicken stuff, they helped us collect the girls for the ride to Summerville. With renewed instructions for their care resounding in our ears, we drove away with our new charges.

We had been home a week when my husband came to me cradling a hen in his arms. Though the rest of the flock signaled their acceptance of their new home with a steady stream of eggs, she had steadily declined. My heart sank at the sight of the normally feisty hen.

Weak and lethargic, she submitted herself to my attentions, gazing at me

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Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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N AT U R A L WOMAN

through sleepy eyes as I wrapped her in old, soft towels and brought her into the house.

When no amount of Googling offered any viable options, I sat down to offer the only comfort I knew, rocking her gently in my lap. Several hours later, swaddled in a pink towel, she looked up at me, fluttered her wings once, and was gone. The weight of those little boys’ instructions lay heavily on my shoulders. I hoped that they would understand that though we lost her, she had known love right up until her last breath.

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We hear so much that is negative about the children of today’s world, that it is all too easy to sell them short, but the glimpse we’d had of these two boys gave me hope. Despite the lure of technology and the volume of toys, gadgets and other distractions available to them, the real world lessons they were learning in the chicken coops and ballfields of childhood, would provide them with tools for future challenges and disappointments. They were the tools that I fervently wished for them, and for future generations, and I silently offered a prayer.

Bless the beasts and the children.

Light their way when the darkness surrounds them. Give them love; let it shine all around them.

The words weren’t mine, but in that moment, they seemed a fitting petition, and I added my own appeal to the words of the song from my own youth. Help them to understand that life isn’t always fair, and that despite our best efforts, we will all one day say goodbye to something we love. And teach them, Lord, that no matter the how long the shot, it is always worth swinging for the fences, sliding for the sheer joy of it, and loving with everything they’ve got. AM Bless the Beasts and the Children, lyrics by Al Dubin and Harry Warren

Family Tides

I

K ID S THESE D AY S

by Tara Bailey

love the sun. Not the warm sun, the blazing summer sun. To step outside and feel piercing U.V. rays actively transforming my body into a spotted, molten corpus is to enter Elysium.

Each year when people start complaining about "not getting a spring," I rub my hands together in sweet anticipation. Spring, with its mild daytime temperatures and cool evenings, has only one job as far as I'm concerned, and that is to make me want summer even more.

The last day of school is always my favorite day of the year. It is the beginning of: Pools! Beaches! Camp! Playing outside for

a whole season! Kayaks, bicycles, surfboards—I use these toys during other times of year, but in the summer I really get my money's worth. Something about the sun.

I was born in the summer, so maybe that's why I relish sticky nights accented with frizzy hair and sweat beads. It could also be that summer is when I experience my favorite week of the year.

Since I was a child my extended family has gathered at Pawleys Island at the start of each summer, spending a week losing track of time together. We gather on the beach in the mornings and on the porch in the evenings, which is really the only schedule we keep. My tribe is large, occupying around five beach houses, and loud, as I can usually locate my cousins from a distance by sound alone. Every night we fill a different house for dinner,

ILLUS TRAT ION BY JASON WA G E N E R Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

51

KIDS THESE D AY S

Fine art and gifts by local artists A gallery of fine art and crafts all made by local artists.

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burnt skin heating the room and hands sopping with peanut juice. The children are worn out before dinner is ready but rally by the time dessert is served, and the night usually ends with lost shoes and pleas to stay longer. On the best nights, they put on a vaudevillian performance in the yard. Admission is a quarter or pay what you will. When the katydids sound their hypnotic alarms and the bats start their erratic hunts, we say goodnight so we can wake up refreshed and do it all again.

This tradition began because my grandfather and his twin brother had four other siblings, and they often missed being together once they became adults and dispersed.

Growing up I would spend a week with my family in a beach house decorated with ship wheels and wooden paddles and floors scarred by sand, the way a beach house should look. Of course, the family elders began to die as I began to grow, but we still gathered each year. Now only the twins remain from the original six, though the family has greatly expanded, with new boyfriends, girlfriends, spouses, and babies introduced each year. Friends are also welcome; repeat guests are considered honorary family by dinner time.

It's hard for an outsider to determine who is family and who is a friend from initial observation. Many of us are adopted, so we don't necessarily share a lot of physical features. Some of us have very fair skin, other have very dark skin, many are tall, of few of us are quite short. We also span the spectrum of religion, style, politics, and other traits that often divide people. The joyful ease in being together is what binds us and makes any onlooker think, "Yeah, that crew goes together." Plus, everyone has the same laugh. It's loud.

The rest of the year is dotted with

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AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

brief visits with each other—those nearby will celebrate Thanksgiving together, others will travel for a landmark birthday.

But it is that week at the beginning of the summer that has allowed us to refine our family identity. I have a photo of a cousin, now a designer in New York, holding my infant daughter. That infant daughter is currently the same age my cousin was in that photo. It doesn't take a long time for a long time to pass.

So here we are, soaking in the love of early June, buying paper towels in bulk and planning menus for our week at Pawleys.

Soon the kayaks will be on top of the car, our bikes secured on the back, and we will be stopping at our favorite outposts on Highway 17 for drinks and sandwiches.

In just over an hour we will be slurping on peanuts from the hardware store at the north causeway, putting sheets on beds, and running from house to house to greet each other like kids returning to camp. My girls will be shirking their duties to head straight for the ocean with their cousins; now that they are teenagers, the island belongs to them.

As for me, I will be outside as often as I can, paddling the creek, riding the waves, becoming a happy, salty version of my fall and winter self. When I look into the faces of my family—some very old and some brand new—I will know where I come from, even if we all originated in different places and circumstances. I come from my grandfather's people, and I wear the sun on my own face like a tribal marking.

I always have to cope with some brief sadness when the week ends. I wait for this reunion for so long, enduring a school year and holidays and the dismality of January just to see it vanish after a few nights' sleep. Then spring arrives again, and the air gradually becomes thicker and the sun less forgiving, and I know it's almost time.

And when it is over, I still have the rest of the summer to feel the sun wrap me in its rays and heat me with the joys of the season, reminding me of who I am. AM Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

53

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L IF E & F A IT H

Men, Adventure, & Video Games

I

by Will Browning

was nine years old and poised to do something no one I knew had yet done. I was about to face Ganon in level eight of the Legend of Zelda. For readers who are under 30 years old, this was one of the first fantasy games that Nintendo released. It was all the rage in the late 1980s. And like so many boys my age, I was hooked the moment I slayed the leader of the desert brigands.

These days the gaming industry is a yearly $90+ billion industry. And with the largest demographic of consumers in this industry being young men between the ages of 18-29, it is

ILLUSTR AT ION BY JASON WA G E N E R Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

55

LIFE & FA I T H

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undeniable that something about video games connects to a very integral part of manhood. Almost every top game in 2015 involved action or adventure.

They are precious in His sight.

Have you ever stopped to ask the question: Why do men love video games so much?

After twenty years of studying the Bible and culture, I’ve learned that man was created with a sense of adventure and competition in his soul. In Genesis 1:28, where the creation of man is recorded, we see the first man, Adam, told to go and subdue the earth. The word subdue is rarely used in the modern vernacular, but a couple of English equivalents for subdue would be to tame or dominate.

Man’s creator challenged him to tame the wild!

We live in a culture where manhood isn’t celebrated: where boys are taught to behave like their female counterparts and be clean, quiet, and well-mannered.

Caged and confined by these cultural expectations, men are seeking an escape. Many men long for adventure far beyond the pile of paperwork on their desk. They long for a battle bigger than the conference room can hold. We daydream of a challenge that tests our wit, will, and the warrior inside.

If you are a wife or the mother of a teenage boy, you have probably said too many times, “I hate those video games you play!” Understand that

56 AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

With more than 25 years of experience, video games give your guys a sense of accomplishment, a place where he can win, and a quest where at the end he will be the victor.

Unless he is given another outlet to gratify this longing, he is likely to tune-out your admonitions.

After twenty years of studying the Bible and culture, I’ve learned that man was created with a sense of adventure and competition in his soul.

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Attorney & Counselor at Law

1 3 1 E . Ric hardson S u mmer v il l e / 843.871.2210 / shel bou r n e la w. c om

Truthfully, that nine-year-old version of myself in 1986 preparing to defeat Ganon is still the same as the 38-year-old me who seeks the thrill of accomplishment. What I know now is that winning a video game is only a quick fix for a soul that ultimately seeks a nobler and grander adventure. AM Brendan Sinclair. Gaming Will Hit $91.5 Billion This Year. www.gameindustry.biz Pew Research Center, Who Plays Video Games and Identifies as a “Gamer.” December 15, 2015

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The Phoenix of Gracefield

An elegant Walterboro home rises from the ashes of a family tragedy

by Jana Riley

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A

The Family Estate Clockwise from top left: The Fishburne home sits welcoming and inviting; Heart pine lends an air of warmth to the living room; A long dirt drive is the classic Southern entrance; The master bedroom reflects the home’s natural surroundings.

tunnel of grand oaks ushers visitors toward the Walterboro home of Barnwell and Jennifer Fishburne, and one can’t help but imagine how many horses, carriages, early automobiles, and guests must have entered this beautiful land in similar fashion over the years. As the stately house comes into focus, glistening waters provide a fitting backdrop.

This is Gracefield.

Situated in Walterboro at the headwaters of the Chessee River, the property has been owned by the Fishburne family since 1748 when it served as an inland rice field, though

Heirloom Variety Clockwise from top left: A crisply manicured lawn hugs the impressive facade; Some heirloom furniture that survived the flames; A beautiful water view from the Fishburne home; Monogrammed linens are a cozy and traditional personal touch.

it switched hands a few times before being fully reacquired in 1936. Now, the 1200 acres of land and water are divided into sections between Barnwell and his sisters, brothers, and their families, and a newly attained conservation easement insures that the entire property will remain undeveloped and in the family in perpetuity.

At Gracefield, Barnwell and Jennifer’s section of the family land, Barnwell built a farmhouse-style home around thirty years ago. When the couple met, Jennifer spent countless hours renovating and redecorating before moving in with her children, and the house served as the site of some of the family’s most treasured memories.

Unfortunately, tragedy struck in 2010 when the home caught fire and burned to the ground, leaving nothing but a pile of smoldering ashes, though the family and pets escaped physically unharmed. For a time, the Fishburne family

Talking Shop Knight outside of his Harleyville shop

Gathering Table With statement artwork showcasing some of the local wildlife, the dining area flanks the foyer and is the perfect setting for entertaining.

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Where the Heart is Clockwise from top left: As the relative center of the house, the kitchen is a common area of conversation and community; The Fishburne family leaves their legacy on the land; The love of Barnwell and Jennifer Fishburne runs deep; Heirloom touches pepper the home.

grieved the loss of the home that Barnwell built and the many sentimental items within it, but eventually, they began to dig through the rubble and plan anew. Though nearly everything was destroyed by fire, smoke, or heat, the family was able to salvage some antique heart pine flooring and granite from the old home, as well as a few pieces of antique furniture. Together, they began to make plans, reveling in the fact that this time, their home would be one that they all built together. They enlisted the services of a residential designer from Camden, SC named Chris Cook, and Jennifer often found herself

staying up until 2am on the phone with him, poring over architectural plans together until every inch of their new 5000 square foot home was designed just so. They hired builder Todd Sauls from Yemassee, and as his team worked, Jennifer and Barnwell frequented antique stores and auctions, searching for the perfect items to make their new house reflect their personalities and interests. They also searched high and low for the ideal exterior paint color, trying over twenty samples before settling on one called “Wadmalaw Green,� a hue they found after driving by a home in

The Ponds and contacting the builder for a name. In everything the pair acquired for the new home, they promised each other that they would only bring things in if they were meaningful in some way, and each room reflects that agreement. Most notable of all is the iron medallion Jennifer designed that includes the first initial of every family member, including the dog. Wrought by Charlie Ricketson out of Walterboro, the homage to the togetherness of the Fishburne family is appropriately incorporated into a balcony above the entrance to the home, a constant reminder of the strong love that is shared within.

With its dramatic past, the Fishburne family land is likely to continue to serve as the backdrop for many a story. For now, Jennifer maintains that the home is her refuge, a place that wraps her in a sense of peaceful gratitude.

A true beauty arisen from the ashes of a tragedy, the Fishburne home at Gracefield is a treasure of the Lowcountry. AM

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Gold Plated Pork plate at Baker's BBQ

POR K GRIND A Lowcountry Barbecue Tour

The

They chop the wood, stoke the fire, put on the pork, and watch over it as though it’s a precious sleeping child. For a dozen hours or more, they check the temperature, baste with secret sauces and tenderly deliver the finished product to those of us for whom barbecue is practically a religion.

Whether a disciple of whole hog or one who prefers to have your butt smoked, the Lowcountry’s pit masters have you covered, and no matter if you’re a follower of vinegar sauce with red pepper flakes, a golden, mustard-based sauce or you choose a sauce flavored with a hint of whiskey, you can bet they have something to tickle your taste buds. Wherever you find yourself in the Lowcountry, there is always a pit master nearby, and enough choices available to send you absolutely hog wild!

by S U S A N F R A M P T O N & J E S S Y D E V E R E A U X M I T C H A M photography by D O T T I E R I Z Z O

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Hog Wild This page clockwise: Diners at Swig and Swine; Dukes in Ridgeville; The mural at the Barbeque Joint.

Opposite page clockwise: Mark Behr at Sweatman's smokehouse; Chopping pork; Pulled pork sandwich at Queology

JIM 'N NICKS Behind every great barbecue restaurant is a great story, and Jim ‘N Nick's (also known as Nick's at the downtown Charleston location) is no exception. Jim, with his son, Nick, opened the doors to their first restaurant in 1985 inside of an old pizza parlor in Birmingham, AL. Since then, the family's “low and slow” method of cooking has made Jim ‘N Nick's somewhat of an institution in the South, with 34 restaurants spread across seven different states. The same recipes and cooking techniques the company started with are taught to every local owner, and passed on to the 68 AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

pitmaster at each location. This consistency guarantees you will have the same taste and comfort of home, even if you're dining out of state. From the tender brisket and smoked turkey to the ever-popular cheese biscuits, you can't go wrong no matter what you order!

288 King Street, Charleston (843) 577-0406 4964 Centre Pointe Drive, N. Charleston (843) 747-3800 Open for lunch and dinner www.jimnnicks.com

SMOKE BBQ

Born and raised right here in Charleston, SC, brothers Roland and Michael Feldman know a thing or two about Southern Cuisine. After spending their youth harvesting blue crabs and oysters, their love of food flows through their veins like the current of the Stono River they grew up on. That same passion shines through the soul of their establishment, in both the fun, creative cuisine and the rustic, yet modern, atmosphere.

A contemporary barbecue joint by day, filled with families and people of all ages, turns into a hip hangout in the evening, abuzz with live music and the chatter of local college kids. The Lowcountry barbecue scene is a competitive one, and Smoke BBQ is more than a viable contender, going above and beyond in their customer service and the flavor of every item on the menu. If you're looking for a fun, laid-back time, while enjoying traditional southern fare with an exciting twist, Smoke BBQ is for you.

487 King Street, Charleston Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Sunday Bar open until 2am, Wednesday through Saturday (843) 805-5050 www.Smokebbqchs.com

HOME TEAM BBQ Ask any local where their goto barbecue joint is, and more often than not, you'll hear Home Team BBQ, and for good cause.

Using a signature dry rub on all of their slow-smoked meats, it is not uncommon for more than 1000 pounds of brisket, pork shoulder, chicken wings, and more to be cooking in the pits at once, emitting such a delicious scent that it's near impossible to feel anything but ravenous. Six delectable barbecue sauces are made in-house; not one of them a bad choice.

Owner and pitmaster Aaron Siegel, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, was always inspired by

the style of jukebox-wielding honky-tonks found across the Southeast, and applied that to the modern ambiance of his own backyard barbecue joint. With the assistance of Siegal’s executive chef, (and Food Network's Chopped champion) Taylor Cardigan, the doors to their first location in West Ashley opened in 2006. Two additional locations and a booming catering operation later, Home Team BBQ continues to grow to be a local favorite that you won’t want to miss.

1205 Ashley River Road, Charleston, (843) 225-7427 2209 Middle St., Sullivan's Island,

(843) 883-3131 126 Williman Street, Charleston (843) 225-7427 Ext. 4 Open for lunch and dinner, bar open until 2am www.HomeTeambbq.com

WILLIE JEWELL’S When 16-year-old Willie Jewell walked into the Green Turtle Restaurant with no home, family, or money to call her own, owner Joe Abdeeb immediately offered her solstice, unaware of the impact this young girl would have on his business, family, and life.

Decades later, after Willie Jewell

taught Abdeeb almost everything he now knows about good ol’ fashioned southern home cookin’, he opened Willie Jewell’s Old School Bar-B-Q in her memory and honor. The smoky smells that permeate the entire restaurant and the whole surrounding area will induce a hunger to both patrons and passersby alike that only true southern fare will satisfy. The fast paced, yet laid-back model of Willie Jewell's ensures you will receive your heavy-handed platter of barbecue goodness only a few minutes after you place your order, holding true to their “Smoked for Hours, Served in minutes” slogan.

In a setting that is reminiscent of a cozy mountain cabin, you're sure to feel right at home; maybe even comfortable enough to loosen your belt to the next notch after dinner to make room for one of their famous desserts. Five different locations are spread out through Florida and Georgia, with the Charleston location being the only one in South Carolina at this time.

8983 University Blvd. Unit 106, North Charleston, SC 29406 (843) 789-3636 Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Sunday www.WillieJewells.com

Slow & Low This page clockwise: Streetside dining at Queology, Pitmaster Seth Watari at Baker's; The famouse Sweatman's Sign

MELVIN'S

STICKY FINGERS Sticky Fingers has everything you could ask for in a mom and pop-style barbecue chain, from the familiar sight of the hunter green sign to the welcoming aroma of hickory-smoked barbecue that breaks through the walls of the restaurant and pervades the nearby streets; from the relaxing and rugged wood-grain decor to the blues music that comforts your soul just as the food comforts your stomach. A company pitmaster makes regular visits to each location to ensure quality and consistency in the menu, and an importance is placed on stores maintaining a relationship within their respective communities. The family-friendly atmosphere and a “Get Sticky, Have Fun” attitude makes Sticky Fingers a go-to lunch or dinner choice, where you can enjoy fall-off-the-bone ribs, pork, and chicken without worrying about being judged for the inevitable BBQ sauce you’ll be wearing by the end of the meal.

235 Meeting Street, Charleston, 341 Johnnie Dodds Blvd, Mt. Pleasant 1200 North Main Street, Summerville (843) 853-7427 Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Sunday www.StickyFingers.com 70 AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

There's something to be said for a brand still going strong after nearly a century, and for Melvin’s Legendary BBQ, it all started in 1933 with a family man’s desire for and eventual creation of a homemade mustardbased barbecue sauce. “Big Joe” Bessinger, a South Carolina native, father of ten, and lover of all things barbecue, opened Holly Hill Cafe in 1939, after the popularity and demand for his unparalleled sauce grew (by word of mouth, no less) to be more than his family’s home kitchen could handle. The Depression closed the doors to the cafe, but the Bessinger family is a resilient one. Using all of the same secret recipes his parents had passed down to him, Melvin, son of Big Joe, took over the family business after returning from his service in WWll. He began to sell their famous bottled barbecue sauce in retail markets and dove headfirst into the market

of chain restaurants with his own son, David, before “settling down” with the two current Charleston locations, which include convenient drive-throughs.

From the traditional BBQ platters with traditionally tender meats, to the expertly executed “trimmings”

featuring surreal sides, such as sweet potato soufflé and donutsized onion rings, the offerings at this legendary Lowcountry institution are sure to satiate the craving of even the harshest barbecue critic.

925 Houston Northcutt Blvd.

Charleston (843) 881-0549 538 Folly Road, Charleston (843) 762-0511 Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday (Closed Sundays) www.MelvinsBBQ.com

CUMBERLAND SMOKEHOUSE Barbecue, beer, and bourbon are the highlights of this smokehouse sports bar, where the meats are smoked slowly and tenderly, the beer is cold and local, and the bourbon can (and should) only be served in a flight of three.

First Row: A Bloody Mary at Queology; The fire pit at Sweatman's; Joe Brunson has been cooking hogs at Sweatman's for over 30 years; Shoveling coals Second Row: Sandwich and side at The Barbeque Joint; The sign says it all; Diners at Swig & Swine; Saturday night at Dukes Third Row: Sign outside of Baker's; Banana Pudding at Dukes; The backdrop to many BBQ plates; The dart board at Queology Fourth Row: The quest map and Pitmaster Anthony DiBernardo at Swig & Swine; Decor and Pork nachos at Queology

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First Row: Pork rinds at Swig & Swine; The smokehouse at Sweatman's; Queology's unique seating; The smoker at Baker's Second Row: The guest book at Sweatman's; Lunch is served at Nick's; Pork sandwich and sauces at Nick's Third Row: BBQ plate at Dukes; Pitmaster Anthony DiBernardo's uniform; Nick's on King St.; The menu at The Barbeque Joint Fourth Row: Pork plate at Sweatman's; Street dining at Poogan's Smokehouse; Proof of a good lunch; Prepping for lunch at Poogan's

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THE BARBEQUE JOINT

Dig In This page clockwise: Pork plate at Sweatman's; Pitmaster Anthony DiBernardo at Swig & Swine; Sunday afternoon at Sweatman's

Formally Egan & Sons Irish pub, the Cumberland Street location has a reputation of reinventing itself, with the most current transformation a refreshing and impressive one. Once you step into the brick building through the wide-open farmhouse door, you're immediately surrounded by the sweet smell of hickory. The restaurant is adorned with a rustic, clean and modern charm with wood paneling repurposed from old barns, rugged sheet metal, and large televisions broadcasting the game of the day. The atmosphere is bright and upbeat, without holding the typical rowdy standard of a southern sports bar. Sit down for a shareable family-style meal of pork and barbecue with your crew, or enjoy an appetizer of duck fat fries while keeping up with the score of your favorite team...either way, Cumberland Smokehouse has a lot to offer to the local barbecue community, and is sure not to disappoint.

5 Cumberland Street, Charleston (843) 641-0131

Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Sunday Bar open until 2am CumberlandSmokehouse.com

LEWIS BARBECUE Hailing from Austin, Texas, the pitmaster and owner of Lewis Barbecue would agree with a common sentiment of the Lone Star State—that good barbecue is more than a meal, it's a way of life. Chef John Lewis has a passion for the pit as big as the state he grew up in, and is more than eager to start serving authentic Texas-style barbecue to the people of the peninsula. A rising star of a chef who stops at nothing but sheer perfection, Lewis has spent the last 15 years mastering the art of smoked meats, including welding his own custom smokers to create a one-of-a-kind flavor profile that cannot be replicated.

Lewis Barbecue has already built a substantial following from summertime pop-ups at Revelry

Brewing and Butcher and Bee, offers much more than the typical downtown Charleston eatery, separating itself from the rest with weekly Tex-Mex nights, live-chicken Bingo, and get this... plenty of parking! A sure-to-be game changer of the BBQ joint scene, we’re thrilled to see what Lewis Barbecue will offer to Lowcountry barbecue. Follow the restaurant on Facebook to stay upto-date on local pop-ups and other current events.

464 North Nassau Street, Charleston Opening 2016 www.Lewisbarbecue.com

As a restaurant owner in the world of barbecue, you know you're doing something right when you're selling over 3,000 tons of meat a year, and that's not even counting the chicken! Scott Cloud, owner of family-run “The Barbecue Joint,” has discovered the success in simple, yet exquisitelyflavored country cooking that’s so tasty, it's impossible to forget.

Cloud, who grew up in a family of hog farmers, began his career in the restaurant business at the young age of 15. His enthusiasm for comfort food flourished after gaining experience cooking in kitchens in New Orleans and numerous others throughout the country, learning the “right” way to prepare southern barbecue, while acquiring skills and techniques to make it his own. Using ingredients like pork fat roux in the creamy mac and cheese, or the roasted bananas and bacon featured in one of the many delectable seasonal sauces, this barbecue spot knows how to set itself apart from the influx of other Lowcountry southern eateries, without straying too far away from the basics. The down-home feel of the indoor picnic tables, topped with paisleyprinted tablecloths and tin buckets holding three different homemade barbecue sauces invokes a feeling Summer 2016 AZALEAMAG.COM

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3406 Maybank Highway Johns Island, (843) 557-0426 www.JbsSmokeShack.com Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday (Closed Sundays, Mondays, and Tuesdays)

SWIG & SWINE

Meat and Three This page: Pork sandwich at Queology s Opposite: Fixins at Swig & Swine

of contentment similar to what you may feel at a family cookout, surrounded by good food and good people.

1083 East Montague Avenue, North Charleston (843) 747-4567 Open for lunch, Monday through Wednesday Open for lunch and dinner, Thursday through Saturday (Closed Sundays) www.thebarbequejoint.com

JB’S SMOKESHACK Nestled in the midst of the towering live oak trees of John's Island, JB’s Smokeshack was

built on the foundation of authenticity and an agreement to never compromise on flavor.

After numerous times of being told they had what it takes to open up a barbecue restaurant, JB and Diane Quinn bit the bullet in the early 2000s after spotting the perfect location in a vacant building off of Maybank Highway.

The husband and wife team put their popular cooking to the

commercial test, using locallysourced ingredients and family recipes that date as far back as six generations, and their cuisine has been well-received by Lowcountry locals and out-of-town tourists alike. Whether you go for one of their classic individual plates or the more daring all-you-can-eat buffet option, you're sure to find the kind of soul food that can soothe your soul. Visitors of the familyfriendly eatery boast not only about the 15-hour smoked pork, but the legendary fried chicken, which radiates peppery flavor from within its crispy cornmeal shell.

It’s a common occurrence to find one of the owners strolling around the dining room to chat with the patrons enjoying their creations on styrofoam plates, further demonstrating the pure, downhome feel of the restaurant. If you're looking for some of the best barbecue in the Lowcountry, the search is off. Stop by the little red building with the smiling pig and you're sure to be smiling before dessert.

As thick smoke billows from the cleverly placed, front-of-the-house smoker, this fun and funky eatery delivers dishes decked out in bona fide barbecue loaded with a “freshoff-the-smoke” taste. Living up to its name, Swig & Swine offers an extensive beer and bourbon collection, perfect for pairing with their house-made sausage, a rack (or two) of ribs, or any of their respective meats. Owner and self-titled “Smokeman” of the restaurant Anthony DiBernardo began honing his culinary skills at an early age and spent years working in various kitchens before finding his true calling in the business of barbecue, where he brings a new-school flavor to a classic concept. As you peruse the simple yet sufficient selection of southern delicacies the menu has to offer, don't forget to check out the chalkboard-painted wall, which effectively tempts customers with mouth watering specials and delectable desserts. A brand-new Summerville location opens this summer, featuring three whole hog cookers that will run all day long and viewing access to the pit room, where the meat will be freshly pulled and chopped as it comes off the smoker. With honest-togoodness smoky and rich flavor profiles in nearly everything they serve, it is never a mistake to dine at Swig & Swine!

1217 Savannah Hwy Charleston, (843) 225-3805 Open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Sunday Summerville location to open Summer 2016 1990 Old Trolley Road Summerville swigandswinebbq.com

THREE LITTLE PIGS The big, bad wolf might huff and puff, but in Goose Creek, at Three Little Pigs they are too busy preparing dishes for the tasty buffet to pay much attention.

With the meat selection of the menu featuring 3 kinds of pork, chicken, wings, beef brisket, fried livers and gizzards, fried fish, pork chops and smoked sausage, this pig parlor is really cooking! If you’re overwhelmed by the huge buffet, a sandwich basket or a plate with one or 2 meats offer smaller options, but you’ll still have to choose three side dishes from among tomato pie, dirty rice, candy yams, collards and other simmering pans. Save room— with banana pudding or chocolate delight on the menu, you’re going to want dessert, and there is no shame in being a pig at Goose Creek’s favorite ‘que spot!

150 Howe Hall Rd. Goose Creek, (843) 203-6687 Open Wednesday and Sunday, 11am – 3 pm/ Thursday, Friday, Saturday 11 am – 9 pm 3littlepigsbbq.com

KELLY'S Follow your nose to Summerville’s down-home barbecue place.

Bright and cheery with farmhouse touches like galvanized bucket light fixtures, pristine white chairs and tables with butcher-block tops, your mouth will water at the restaurant’s tin and hardwood buffet cradling a host of choices.

In addition to Kelly’s usual pork barbecue, Wednesdays are rib days, Thursdays feature whole, fried catfish, and Friday and Saturdays add brisket to the buffet. Sides like red rice, cabbage casserole, seasonal squash and onions and delicious bacon coleslaw are among the choices making it hard to decide which to try first. Wash it all down with tea guaranteed to hit your sweet spot, and top it off with fresh, hot cobbler, strawberry shortcake or creamy banana pudding. Affordable and family-friendly, Kelly’s Barbecue

also offers a military discount to those who serve and protect, going above and beyond to live up to their motto “to serve Jesus and feed you.”

10475 Hwy. 78 East Summerville, (843) 871-3050 Wednesday thru Saturday, 11 am to 8:30 pm kellysbarbq.com

DUKE'S Whether you’re all cammo’d up from an afternoon in the woods, nattily dressed for success, or taking the family out to give Mom a break from the kitchen, Duke’s BBQ will make you feel right at home. You won’t find anything fancy at this no-frills favorite, but the all-you-can-eat buffet delivers good old-fashioned home cooking that would make your grandmother proud. Vegetable sides, such as slightly sweet stewed tomatoes and staples like rich, flavorful hash are refilled every few minutes to keep up with the constant demand. Pulled pork may be dressed up with a splash of hot, mustard, or vinegar-based sauce, but the fried chicken is best enjoyed naked (the chicken, not you!) And, since you’ve already loosened your belt a notch, finish

with a heaping dish of banana pudding or pineapple casserole.

The Friday and Saturday days of operation might break your heart when it’s Tuesday, but it’s worth the wait for the reward the Ridgeville restaurant offers at the end of the week.

118 N Railroad Ave, Ridgeville, (843) 871-6507 Friday and Saturday, 11 am to 9 pm

SWEATMAN'S You may not often find yourself on Eutaw Road, just outside Holly Hill, but when you do, there is no better place to get your barbecue on! With the option of a onetime trip through the buffet, or the bottomless option offering unlimited trips, you can decide just how many dress sizes you’re ready to move up. Every forkful is worth it! Three days of chopping hickory, oak and pecan each and every week prepares the cooker for the

whole hog barbecue owner Mark Behr serves in the picturesque old farmhouse at the end of the week. Basted with secret sauce and fork-tender with flavor acquired by 14 hours of low and slow cooking, it’s no wonder that Sweatman’s has attracted attention from the likes of The Travel Channel’s “No Reservations,” and “Food Paradise,” and The Cooking Channel’s “Man, Fire, Food.”

But even the best high definition television can’t do justice to the flavors wafting from the doors of this off-the-beaten-path jewel. Go ahead and call shotgun—it’s time for a road trip!

1427 Eutaw Road, Holly Hill (803) 496-1227 Friday and Saturday, 11:30 am to 9 pm sweatmansbbq.com

MUSIC MAN Have you ever listened to your food? Read aloud the names of

Pig Pickin' This page: Family Plate at Swig & Swine; Nick's neon pig; prepping lunch at Baker's. Opposite: The smokehouse at Sweatman's; Pulling meat off the smoker; Rib plate at Nick's

choices available on the menu of this Moncks Corner spot, for an earful of all the flavors Music Man’s BBQ has in store for your taste buds. Ribs carry the tune on the Beach Plate, while chicken sings the chorus you’ll hear on the Blues Plate. The Country Plate is served up with the twang of slowcooked whole hog BBQ, while The Boogie Plate offers a twist and shout of two meat choices.

Can’t decide? Go a little crazy and step up to the Rock ‘n Roll Buffet for some of everything. You’ll also want to dip your whiskers in a bowl of catfish stew, and savor the deliciousness of the legendary local favorite. If you like your supper with a side of saxophone, you’re going to love the beach, boogie and blues you’ll find on Steak Night, the 3rd Wednesday of each month. It’s so popular that reservations are required, so make sure to call ahead and save your place.

112 East Railroad Avenue, Moncks Corner, (843) 899-7675 Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday, 11:00 am -2:00 pm Thursday-Saturday, 11:00 am -8:30 pm musicmansbbq.com

POOGAN'S SMOKEHOUSE For a little bit of rural in the midst of the bustling business on downtown Charleston’s East 76 AZALEAMAG.COM Summer 2016

Bay Street, step into Poogan’s Smokehouse, where the blend of modern and traditional touches come together in perfect harmony.

With their commitment to supporting southern farms creating a menu packed with locally-sourced ingredients, Chef Daniel Doyle and the Poogan’s Smokehouse kitchen add sophisticated flavors to perennial favorites, bringing unexpected taste sensations to every dish. You might kick off a leisurely lunch with Smoked Ham Hock Boiled Peanuts, followed by a huge Traditional Pulled Pork Sandwich alongside Black-eyed Pea Salad tossed in a mustard-horseradish sauce. Await your half rack of St. Louis ribs at dinner by enjoying the Pimento Cheese and Pate Pickle Board, and when it’s time for Sunday brunch, try a shot of Ancho Reyes Chili Liqueur in your Natural Blonde Bloody Mary, with an order of Smoked Chicken Wings and Waffles. You can walk it all off later with a nice long walk along the Battery!

188 East Bay Street Charleston, (843) 577-5665 Lunch: Monday through Saturday, 11:30 am to 5 pm Dinner: Monday through Thursday, 5 pm to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday, 5 pm to 11 pm, Sunday, 3:30 to 10 pm pooganssmokehouse.com

QUEOLOGY

Some write “barbeque,” others, “barbecue,” and still others take the short route with the more succinct “bbq.” The way you spell it matters far less than the way you cook it, and Pit Master Russ Cornette and the Queology Team settle for nothing less than low and slow; parking their butts on a rack over hot hickory coals for 16 hours. With over 25 years of experience, this crew has earned their chops, winning a shelf full of awards and trophies, but we all won when the team brought their skills to Queology, in the heart of Charleston’s historic city market. Ribs, pulled pork or chicken sandwiches, tacos or plates are the stars of the menu, served up au naturel, or dressed with your choice of Kansas City Special, Memphis Sweet, Orangeburg Mustard or HouseMade Signature Sauce. With ten styles to choose from, their jumbo smoked wings fly out of the kitchen. Learn to speak the Queology language, and you’ll be able to talk smoke ring, bark, and sauces with the best, while perusing the line-up of sides.

Choose baked beans, mac and cheese, potato salad, coleslaw or corn on the cob to accompany your selection, order up a cocktail or local brew, and get ready to, well, you know…pig out!

32-C North Market Street, Charleston (843) 580-2244 Open daily, 11 am to 2am queology.com

PO PIGS BO-B-Q You’re on an island with golden sunrises, waving palm trees and lazy, winding rivers... and you’re eating a barbecue buffet with pulled pork, pulled turkey, fried chicken, roasted chicken, fried seafood, hash, hushpuppies and washing it all down with sweet tea.

This is either the best dream ever, or you’re at Pam and BoBo Lee’s Authentic Southern Barbeque.

You won’t find white table cloths and you needn’t get all gussied up to eat here; they keep it casual and though you can order off the menu, but why not hit the buffet and have a little bit of everything.

It’s the perfect place to stop on your way to a weekend of fun in the sun, or to fill up after a day on the beach.

2410 Highway 174, Edisto Island, (843) 868-9003 Thursday through Saturday 11:30 am to 9 pm

BAKE R'S On any given day under the big oak on Central Avenue, you’ll find Kay and Dennis Baker’s adorable restored cottage nestled among a Southern landscaper’s dream come true and a selection of one-ofa-kind art and antiques that will have you making out a wish list; but Thursday through Saturday,

the flavor of the Southern-style barbecue might stop you in your tracks. Pit Master Seth Watari and Dennis Baker combine forces to create a daily selection that will have you throwing resolutions out the window and sitting down to say the blessing. Cooked slow over hardwood coals, the award winning barbecue is a sight for sore eyes, piled high on a bun, or sitting alongside blue cheese coleslaw, broccoli salad or mac and cheese.

Diet? What diet? If you can’t decide between baked beans and corn casserole, you might as well have both…unless, of course, you’re saving yourself for pecan pie.

807 Central Avenue Summerville, SC (843) 875-4469 Garden and Antiques open Monday through Saturday, 10 am to 6 pm Barbecue served Thursday through Saturday, 11am to 6 pm bakersgardenantiquesandbbq.com

BESSINGER'S When Thomas Bessinger, Sr. began his cooking career at age fourteen in his dad’s Eat at Joe’s Restaurant, he probably had no idea that he was preparing to set a table at which Charleston families would happily dine for many generations. Following in the footsteps of “Big Joe” Bessinger, whose Piggy Park Barbecue is a South Carolina classic, Thomas opened Bessinger’s Barbeque in Charleston in 1960. The rest, as they say, is history; in this case a juicy, tender tasty history of mustard-based sauce served up with Southern hospitality. Sons, Tommy and Michael Bessinger, also jumped into the family fire in their early teens, and today own and operate the West Ashley favorite. Their barbecue is legendary, with the restaurant’s signature baskets and platters offering barbecue pork, brisket or chicken accompanied by heaven’s own cloud of single, golden, fried onion ring. You’ll find a menu brimming with ribs and chicken tenders, hash, and hamburgers, potato salad, catfish stew and much more. Family matters to the Bessingers, so bring yours by to meet theirs today.

to Sunday dinner at your mama’s.

Starting at 6 pm on Fridays, catch whole fried catfish, golden catfish nuggets, and red rice, rounding out a menu that has stood the test of time and welcomes the next generation to barbecue at its best.

1602 Savannah Highway, Charleston, (843) 556-1354 Monday through Thursday, 10:30 am to 9 pm, Friday and Saturday, 10:30 am to 9:30 pm, Buffet 5 pm to 8:30 pm, Sunday, 11 am to 9 pm, Buffet, Noon to 8 pm bessingersbbq.com

1440 South Live Oak Drive, Moncks Corner, (843) 899-2278 Thursday - Saturday 11am to 8 pm barbquebarn.com AM

SMOKY OAK TAPROOM What’s not to love about a restaurant with a menu section labeled, “Let’s Get Sauced”? You can have your wings, shrimp or chicken tenders slathered with Smoky Oak Red, Chipotle BBQ, Honey Mustard or a combination of any of the saucy selections.

Chef and owner Rick Agius, recognized a void in James Island’s comfortable, casual and fun restaurant category, and filled in in the best way possible, brining barbecue, local beer, and live music to the island. In addition to almost anything you could possibly be hungry for—hamburgers, hand-tossed pizzas, quesadillas, sandwiches, soups and salads—an array of hickory smoked barbecue platters and sandwiches are on the menu. Try out the granddaddy of them all: "The Smoky Oak Experience," offering pulled pork, beer-can chicken, smoked sausage, beef brisket, ½ rack of ribs, cornbread and three, yes, three sides. Wash it down with one of over 40 craft beers on tap, or wet your whistle with a custom cocktail whipped up by one of the professional bartenders on duty.

It’s comfortable, casual, fun, and definitely fabulous.

Camp Shopping Center, 1234 Camp Rd. Charleston (843) 762- 6268 Open daily, 11 am to 2 pm smokyoak.com

BAR-B-QUE BARN Old newspaper clippings reveal that when Andrea Williams’ parents moved here from Myrtle Beach in 1982 to manage a barbecue restaurant, they admittedly “didn’t know barbecue from beans or surf from turf.”

But the savory aroma of smoky, pit-cooked barbecue led Robert and Donna Marino to not only learn the business, but to buy it and start a family tradition. Today, Andrea and her husband Jason own and operate the casual, family restaurant that is a staple for those who travel Highway 17A between Summerville and Moncks Corner. On the buffet, alongside homemade mac-and-cheese, hash and rice, and vegetables worthy of a summer garden, you’ll find succulent barbecue pulled pork, smoked ribs and chicken, and fried chicken so good it takes you back

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Land Of Plenty Owner Billy Walker on his Marymeade Farm

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S U R R O U N D E D B Y A N E V E R - G R O W I N G T O W N , M A R Y M E A D E F A R M I S A N U N E X P E C T E D G I F T O F P E A C E A N D Q U I E T F O R P A S S E R S B Y

by S U S A N F R A M P T O N photography by D O T T I E R I Z Z O

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It is late afternoon just off the Berlin G. Myers Parkway, and traffic is moving slowly. Quittin’ time, our grandparents might have called this hour of the day, when those who have toiled since early morning make the journey homeward; tired and more often than not, a tad cranky.

Improbably, there is a bullfight simmering only a few yards away.

The black bull arrogantly approaches the huge bale of hay Billy Walker’s tractor has deposited in the feeding ring only yards away from the idling cars. Wearing his self-importance on broad horns spanning his brow, the bull lowers his head and charges into the straw, throwing golden strands high into the air, snorting and stomping. Billy chuckles at the bovine antics.

“Yea, he’s pretty rambunctious,” he says, “and he’s got some pretty good headgear, too.”

The cattle are an endless source of fascination to those who drive the Berlin G. Myers Parkway, as are the silos and outbuildings of what many consider to be Summerville’s own urban farm. Horses graze under stately oaks and the rustic red roofs of the barns and cottages on the property summon peace and tranquility in the midst of the Town’s ever increasing pace. The bucolic setting is unexpected in mid-town. It is lovely in its simplicity, drawing many to pull off the road for a better view of the farm called Marymeade. Few are aware of its name or history.

On the sixteen acres making up the three pastures on the south side of Marymeade Farm, Billy Walker and his wife, Kim raise their herd of twenty-five Limousin cattle, a breed said to be as old as the European continent, and featured in France’s famous Lascaux cave paintings.

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Considered “exotics” in the United States, the blocky, muscular cattle are renowned for their adaptability and hardiness, and colors that range from golden red to black. In this herd, many have been crossed with the more familiar Angus breed.

Marymeade Farm has long been a fixture of the Summerville landscape.

It was once part of a 1,300-acre dairy farm owned by the H.C. Prettyman family in the 1930s and 40s, and stretched past what is now Interstate 26, and into Sangaree. The rustic buildings dotting the acreage date back to the days of the Prettyman family’s thriving timber business, and remnants of the dairy operation remain today.

When E.A. “Toby” Marvin bought the property, he turned the farm from a dairy operation toward raising beef cattle, and growing tobacco, cotton and the corn which would provide him with a feed business. He also operated Rack A Way Stables, which he leased to the Carl DeLonge family. Many in Summerville boarded horses at the facility. Marvin’s daughters Dottie and Jean, raised at Marymeade, would become accomplished equestrians at Rack A Way, and Patricia Hayes Maroska remembers Dottie driving a horse-cart into Summerville to pick her up for school.

In 1956, Charleston’s County Council Chairman William Withers “Bill” Walker, Sr. purchased Marymeade from Toby Marvin. The house Marvin lived in was not a part of the transaction, and Marvin’s family continued to live there until his daughters were grown.

For those who lived “in town,” the farm was considered to be a distinctly rural area, with little else to draw them that direction. A gate on the

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corner of East 9th North and North Gum Streets marked the farm’s entrance.

“There was no reason for anyone to be on that dirt road unless they had family or business with the farm,” Billy recalls from his childhood days, noting that often the sheriff had to help remind those who wandered in.

“It seemed like it was way, way out in the country, and an endless journey from our home in North Charleston.”

Having also purchased the livestock from Marvin, Walker continued running cattle and growing corn in fields of the northern boundary of the farm, near what is now the Sangaree area. By 1964, the new interstate connecting Charleston to the western part of the state was complete, cutting off his land on the north side. Billy explains that a simple land swap with one of the farm’s original owners solved the problem “Mr. Prettyman had property on that side of the interstate, and ours was on this side; so he and Dad swapped tracts of land to keep the parcels from being divided.”

Karen DeLonge took over the reins of Rack A Way stables in the early 1960s, and trained many a Summerville youngster in the equestrian arts; receiving numerous awards for showing gaited standard-bred horses.

The stables continued to board horses until the parkway was built, when construction of the Berlin G. Myers Parkway once again split the farmland, and compelled DeLonge to move the business to Ladson.

The Marymeade of today consists of around 200 acres of land, divided

north/south by 9th Street and east/west by the parkway. Billy’s father restored most of the property’s buildings, including the picturesque structure once used as a kennel for foxhounds. Billy and Kim live in what was Toby Marvin’s farmhouse amidst the oaks and shrubs, sharing the north side of the farm with their horses, fierce Rhodesian Ridgebacks and huge, snowy white Great Pyrenees dogs. While fit for a Hollywood movie set, the property continues to be a working farm.

Though his real estate and insurance businesses take up his days, Billy calls life as a farmer his “every day after work, and every day of the weekend” job. As his eyes touch on the features of the land and its animals, it is clear that he has a deep appreciation for both, and that his chores are performed with a love for what they represent. He doesn’t mind at all when folks park to take a look, and enjoys the fact that parents often stop to show their children the farm’s horses and cows, but admits that there are also a few drawbacks to being so accessible.

“We aren’t open to the public. It looks romantic, but there is always work to be done. People sometimes forget that we are a private, working farm. We just ask that they have respect for the animals and the boundaries. “ It’s a small thing to ask for the gift of serenity Marymeade provides those passing the urban utopia, offering the opportunity to pause, if only for a second, take a deep breath and remember that life was once simple, and that even in the midst of the hustle and bustle, there are indeed greener pastures. AM

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SUSAN FRAMPTON photography by A M E L I A W E AV E R

Gentry Bourbon honors a life and a legacy, launching a new brand of history in the Lowcountry

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Family Tradition Each bottle is hand assembled. Opposite: The filling proccess

he liquid swirls with the fury of a tiny tornado as it fills containers riding a conveyor belt in John David ( JD) Madison’s warehouse. Shards of amber light reflect off the square shoulders of signature bottles as they await their turn to be fixed with a label paying tribute to a life and a legacy. Once sealed with a wood-topped cork, and branded with the company’s polo helmet and mallet embossed red wax seal, the understated and elegant finished product will await distribution to an ever-growing list of Lowcountry restaurants, drinking establishments and retailers.

Gentry Bourbon, Charleston's premier, uniquely crafted reserve batch bourbon whiskey, represents a two-year journey and a quest to honor the three things JD Madison holds dearest: family, horses and tradition. It does so with a poise and confidence born of love, careful research, and a determination to get it right.

The story of the bourbon began many years ago. From his ranch in Oklahoma, grandfather John Gentry Madison passed down his love of horses to his son, Gary, and traveled with him to Kentucky, in pursuit of his first racehorse. As the years passed, the elder Madison would retire as a real estate developer and politician, with a collection of thoroughbreds from across the nation. But it would be one particular horse that the family would never forget; a horse with a bloodline leading back to Triple Crown winner, War Admiral, which would spark his hope of running in Kentucky’s big race; a horse he would name Gentry.

That spark was extinguished when John Gentry Madison passed away all too soon, never realizing his dream. But his grandson's time on the family’s ranch begot in him an appreciation of everything having to do with horses, and the passion his father and grandfather passed along would lead him to equine endeavors ranging from breaking horses in the Colorado Rockies to playing polo in South Carolina, New York, and Florida.

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Having become a successful restauranteur, entrepreneur, and real estate developer in Charleston, JD and his wife, Elizabeth, sought a lasting way to honor the family’s departed patriarch. Knowing that his grandfather’s passing had intensely affected his father, it needed to be a fitting homage to the family and its traditions.

“Granddad was a special guy, and we felt like he was taken too early­—he was only in his early 60s, and there was so much more he wanted to do.”

It was with these values in mind that the Gentry brand was born.

Remembering his grandfather to be a bourbon drinker, they thought the whiskey would offer the perfect vehicle for the sentiments they were looking to express, helping them to capture time and history in a bottle. They knew creating a new brand of an old favorite would carry a steep learning curve, but it was a roll of the dice they chose to take. They also hoped they could keep it a surprise for JD’s dad until everything was in place.

Their choices on the bourbon scale were either a small pot still here in Charleston, producing single barrel, small batches, or a larger operation with coast-to-coast distribution possibilities. Confident that this endeavor had the potential for huge success, they worked with a local liquor platform to source their own bourbon, and made the decision to distill in Indiana and Kentucky. They would give this brand credibility, and a story and local character to appeal to a national audience.

Though there are many legends surrounding the traditional spirit, author Michael R. Veach’s authoritative Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey: An American Heritage chronicles the facts surrounding bourbon production, explaining that though each company’s product is proprietary, the requirements for true bourbon are highly regulated.

It must be made in the USA, and consist of a 51% minimum of corn mash. It must be distilled to no more than 160 proof, or 80%

INGREDIENTS 4 mint leaves, 1 mint sprig 3 lemon slices 4 brandied cherries 1/2 ounce Simple Syrup 1 cup ice 2 ounces Gentry bourbon 1/2 ounce cherry liqueur 1 ounce chilled brewed tea 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice

Pour Man The Gentry national launch party; John David Madison.

Opposite: The Gentry Cousin

alcohol by volume. Once distilled, it may not be colored or flavored, and must enter new, charred-oak barrels for aging, at no more than 125 proof, or 62.5% alcohol by volume.

Since the bottling location determines from whence it comes, Gentry Bourbon is trucked to Charleston after distilling. It was to his warehouse in Charleston that JD took his father, Gary, by surprise, when he and Elizabeth not only unveiled the project, but asked him to determine the taste profile for the unique brand.

“Pop was hit hard by Granddad’s passing, and absolutely blown away by this tribute,” JD beams at the memory, his face flushed with emotion. “It honored Granddad, and it honored Pop to be made a part of the process. It truly made it a family business.”

Aging in wooden barrels allows the distilled liquid to come in contact with the charred wood of the barrels in which it is stored, collecting flavors and expanding and contracting with heat and cold during storage; a process that can take up to 20 years. But time would be on the side of this new, ambitious bourbon.

“Gentry Bourbon is aged by a new technology that allows more of the distilled liquid to move in and out of the staves of the wood barrels, allowing it to age in a much shorter time,” JD says of the newly patented process. “It maintains the romance, but allows for a smoother tasting bourbon.

It also removes some of the heat, and some of the methanol, which is what does damage to the body.”

With his gravelly voice bringing to mind that of an old-time speakeasy proprietor, Madison adds, “We’re the healthier bourbon!”

It took two years from the start of the project until the final result was actually in bottles.

“My dad is a bourbon sipper, while I’m more of a mixed-drink guy. It took tasting over 25 batches, but when Dad finally said we’d gotten it right, we knew we’d hit on just the right notes.”

The bourbon is complex, with notes of vanilla, caramel and mocha, with a delicate and delightful green apple finish.

“Boubon drinkers are a loyal lot, and it’s hard to get them to switch to a new brand. I was the same way, but once I tried this, it was all over. I think it will surprise a lot of people.”

While the bourbon was being perfected, wheels were simultaneously turning elsewhere. The flagship 21-room Gentry Hotel will open soon in Charleston’s historic waterfront district; furthering the brand by continuing the equine theme throughout its guest rooms, restaurant and private rooftop cabanas. Eventually, JD hopes to open a horse farm with the proceeds, raising thoroughbred horses and featuring cottages, stables and a polo field. His dream is to bring the story full circle.

PREPARATION In a cocktail shaker, muddle the mint leaves with 2 lemon slices, 3 cherries and the Simple Syrup.

Add the ice, bourbon, Cherry Heering, tea and lemon juice.

Shake well and pour into a rocks glass. Garnish with the mint sprig and remaining lemon slice and cherry.

Celebrating the national launch of Gentry Bourbon at Boone Hall Plantation’s Cotton Dock, JD Madison lifts his glass to the memory he honors with every barrel of bourbon carrying his family’s name, and to the legacy locked in the amber liquid swirling in the tumblers raised by those responding to his toast. Locking eyes with Gary Madison standing proudly in front, JD’s eyes mist at the emotional significance of the moment.

“I love you, Pop,” he says to his father, tipping the glass forward in salute, and speaking from his heart.

John Gentry Madison may have never known the thrill of the Run for the Roses, but there is no doubt he is smiling from above. AM For more on Gentry Bourbon, and to find an available location near you, visit gentrybourbon.com.

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REUNION

by Ellen E. Hyatt

It happens real ordinary-like. Say, you open a summer’s day by stepping onto your front porch for the newspaper.

You’ll remember someone, again, sighing, “Just look at this day.” You look. You reunite with awe and being seven When: aromas of roses, pine, and all nature’s green mix in with the damnedest hot BBQ prepped by your uncles for the cook-off.

On that summer day, each of them slow-cook their secreted recipes in a pit on the farm. Once purchased for a dollar an acre, the land in your family for over a century now priceless. Fruit of the land bubbles in warm cobblers.

“These! For you, darlin’ doodlebug.

Those!” Auntie points to bourbon peach, brandy blackberry, and Jack Daniel’s apple “for the Legal Age tonight when singing and strumming around the bonfire.” You, too, sing the words long before you understand all that can happen to send Patsy walking after midnight, Hank to walk the floor, and Cash to walk some line.

On that summer day, even at closing, there was more sky and more time than you could ever know again.

That summer day—as early as the next day’s dawn—had become everyone’s good news and your sweet Then.

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Lowcountry Orthopaedics -&- Sports Medicine A MEMBER OF

Get back in the Game!

Orthopaedic and Pain Management Physicians, X-ray, Occupational Therapy, MRI, Physical Therapy and Outpatient Surgery Center.

By offering the newest techniques and most advanced technology, we have the knowledge to offer our patients the best possible treatment.

David Jaskwhich, MD James McCoy, Jr., MD Adam Schaaf, MD James Spearman, MD

North Charleston 2880 Tricom St.

Downtown Summerville 130 E. 3rd North St.

Summerville/Oakbrook 93 B Springview Ln.

Occupational Therapy 2881 B Tricom St.

Moncks Corner 2061 Highway 52

Daniel Island 899 Island Park Dr. #200

www.LowcountryOrtho.com | (843) 797-5050

styled by margie sutton, makeup by Leslie Gutierrez, photo by Brat's Photography