Palmetto Magazine Fall Winter 2017

PADDLING THE EDISTO / THE HOME THAT BUILT CAMDEN / COOPER’S COUNTRY STORE HISTORY IN THE MAKING AT DRAYTON HALL PLANTATION / Q&A WITH OUTDOORSMAN ERIC DAVIS NATIONAL WILD TURKEY FEDERATION / FORESTER AMY MCFADDEN / CITY SCOUT: GREENVILLE

Big Bird Spicy Fried Chicken Sandwich with Blue Cheese Slaw pg. 50

SOUTHERN COMFORT Fried chicken is a fundamental Southern favorite that lends flavor to our lives and feeds our souls

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Explore Historic Summerville Where else can you find vibrant nightlife, live theater, over 100 dining options, more than 35 pieces of public sculpture, and the Birthplace of Sweet Tea? Something fun for everyone.

For info on public sculpture - sculptureinthesouth.com For info on Historic Downtown - summervilledream.org

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PALMETTO MAGAZINE

F E AT U R E S FALL/WINTER 2017

Aiming High The Westin Hotel in Downtown Greenville

46 S O U T H ERN CO M F O RT Fried chicken is a fundamental Southern favorite that lends flavor to our lives and feeds our souls

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H UN T I N G F O R TH E F U T URE With programs aimed at hunters who understand the importance of conservation, the National Wild Turkey Federation shoots to preserve habitat and heritage for generations to come

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BEAU T I F U L BL A CK W AT ER

Edisto River enthusiasts come together to help visitors navigate the unspoiled, meandering waterway

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S O U T H ERN REV I V A L

Hyped as one of the South’s best redemption stories, Greenville has now evolved into one of the most inspired cities in South Carolina

CONT E N T S

Fall-Winter 2017

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41 25 07 Editor’s Letter 08 Contributors 11-16 FIELD NOTES All About Whiskey 12 The Interview Eric Davis 14 The Scene Dorchester County 16 Etiquette A Guide To Tailgating: Tips For a Perfect Pregame

OUR SOUTH 19 Southern Narrative Drayton Hall Plantation 25 Southern Narrative Forester Amy McFadden 29 Southern Narrative Cooper’s Country Store

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O N T H E C O V E R : Spicy fried chicken sandwich with blue cheese slaw / Photograph by Dottie Rizzo 6

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COLUMN 33 Out Of My Mind Flying Lessons

by Susan Frampton

41 THE STATE HOUSE The House That Built Camden COLUMN 80 Southern Theology When All Falls to Pieces

by Rachelle Cobb

DEV I L S F O RK S TAT E PARK

Explore all of South Carolina’s 47 State Parks to become an Ultimate Outsider.

Start your journey toward becoming an Ultimate Outsider by ordering a guide online or at any state park. To find out more about becoming an Ultimate Outsider, visit SouthCarolinaParks.com.

Share your adventure using #SCStateParks and #UltimateOutsider

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EDITOR’S LETTER

May The Force Be with You My daughter is in her senior year of high school. We are in the thick of college tours and scholarship applications. My thirteen-year-old son is only an inch and a half away from surpassing me as the tallest in the family. Where has the time gone? It feels as if our lives are in fast forward, and as a father I’ve been greedily awaiting that force that Isaac Newton promised would slow it all down.

I recently found that force in the most unexpected place. It was me. I was that force. No, I did not discover a secret mode of time travel, or plan on locking my kids in the house until they’re thirty. What I have learned is that by making a conscious effort to truly be in each moment and cherish the time I still have them under my roof, time seems to slow down.

During our trip to Greenville for “A Southern Revival” (page 68), we were lucky enough to bring the kids along, with no agenda but to explore and document one of the South’s most vibrant cities. From thirty minute visits with the lions at the Greenville Zoo, to exploring the variety and energy of Main Street, to dinners lasting way past our bedtime, we took it slow.

Those simple moments, like a conversation over dinner or crossing the Liberty Bridge, became even more memorable.

This holiday season, be the force. Slow it down and take it all in, one memory at a time.

Will Rizzo Editor-In-Chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

Photographer

JASON WAGENER

Illustrator

JANA RILEY

SUSAN FRAMPTON

RACHELLE COBB

GRACE NELSON

When she’s not behind the lens or running a taxi service for her two children, Paris and Davison, she’s plotting an overthrow of Martha Stewart to become The New Queen of Crafting.

Jason began his illustrious art career when he won a coloring contest in third grade, subsequently entitling him the proud owner of a Mickey Mouse dry erase board. He moved to the Lowcountry in 1990 and save an education at the Savannah College of Art and Design, has remained a faithful transplant ever since.

Jana Riley is a Summerville-based writer and editor. She is madly in love with her husband and kids, and ever inspired by the stories she gets to tell.

An accidental writer, Susan Frampton lives in Summerville, SC. Along with a fluctuating number of wiener dogs, chickens, turtles, snakes, and the occasional pig, her husband and family provide endless material for her musings on life, love, and laughter. Her life is full of adventure and comedy; and some days she contemplates having wine with breakfast.

Rachelle Rea Cobb has history with words.

Born and raised in Summerville, SC, she is the author of three novels, one nonfiction writing guide, and one blog. She also enjoys working with writers as a freelance editor.

When she met a man with the same first name as the fictional hero of her novels, she married him.

RachelleReaCobb.com

Born and raised in Blackville, SC, Grace studied mass communications at the University of South Carolina. She currently resides in the Fort Mill area with her family, and is particularly fond of road trips, Gamecock football, boiled peanuts, and the History Channel.

DOTTIE RIZZO

Writer

Writer

Editor/ Writer

Writer

As captured in Aiken Visit Aiken to experience delectable meals and equestrian thrills.

To see more check out VisitAikenSC on Instagram.

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visitaikensc

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The heart of South Carolina is found in our fields.

We have hundreds of farms for you to explore in South Carolina.

Visit SCFarmFun.org to find your next farm experience.

View the list of participating farms at scagritourism.org.

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the state and start collecting stamps today to win Certified SC prizes!

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Pick up your passport to SC Farm Fun at participating farms across

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Will Rizzo

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Dottie Rizzo

MANAGING EDITOR

Contributors

Rachelle Rea Cobb Elizabeth Donehue Susan Frampton Grace Nelson Jana Riley Jason Wagener

South Carolina National Heritage Corridor P UB L I S H E R

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s c 1788

In Gaelic, whiskey translates to uisce beatha or “water of life.”

The “Angel’s share” refers to the 4% of whiskey that evaporates every year.

A closed bottle of whiskey can be kept for more than 100 years and it will still be good to drink.

There are two legitimate spellings of whiskey. One is ‘whisky’—as spelled

by Scotts and Canadians and the second is ‘whiskey’—as spelled by the Irish and Americans.

There are five basic classifications of whiskey—Irish Whiskey, Scotch Whisky, Bourbon, Canadian Whisky, and American Whiskey.

Whiskey is clear when it comes off the stills. The color comes from the white oak barrels in which it ages.

It’s generally accepted that the very first whiskey was created in Ireland by Irish monks.

Although the Scotts might have an issue with that statement.

Tennessee whiskey gets its distinct flavor and aroma characteristics from a unique process called “mellowing.”

Kindred Spirit With whiskey overtaking vodka as the most popular liquor in America, here are a few fun facts about a favorite cool-weather spirit

There was an uprising in Pennsylvania after Alexander Hamilton began taxing whiskey in 1791. Scottish and Irish settlers resented the tax. Rioting broke out in 1794 and the president at the time, none other than George Washington, sent troops to quell the rioting.

There are more than 5,000 types of Single Malt Whiskey.

The most expensive whiskey in the world is the Macallan “M” bottle.

The whiskey sold for almost $630,000 at a 2014 Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong.

Whiskey can withstand cold temperatures, and will remain in liquid form even at -30 degrees celsius.

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F IE L D

N OTES

THE SCENE

L O C AT I O N

Dorchester County A roadside barn in upper Dorchester Co.

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F IE L D

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SEASONAL

OBSERVATIONS

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CAROLINA

For pure relaxation, I’ll take my family’s getaway on a quiet cove on Lake Wylie.

Tell us about your job?

Sometimes when I tell people I work in the parks and recreation field, they laugh a little and say something about how it must be great to play outside all day. If only that were true! Being charged with starting Dorchester County’s first Parks and Recreation Department brings both excitement and challenges.

I’m exhilarated to be involved with building such essential facilities and services from the ground up, but the pace of progress can also be a source of stress!

Where’s the perfect place to get away and relax in SC? I love being around water. Thankfully, SC is blessed with an abundance of water of all types from mountain streams to ocean waves for surfing. For pure relaxation, I’ll take my family’s getaway on a quiet cove on Lake Wylie.

You are an avid paddler. What’s your favorite place to paddle in SC and why?

I like paddling narrow black water streams with plenty of challenges and few signs of civilization. Much of the Edisto River’s North Fork in Orangeburg County checks off those boxes and is pretty close to home. However, with all of the options in our state, I could never choose just one!

Mustard or tomato-based BBQ? Vinegar-based BBQ. Don’t forget about the Pee Dee region! There’s nothing quite like the piquant goodness of a vinegar-pepper sauce, though quality pork BBQ should stand on its own without any sauce needing to be added.

Sweet or unsweet tea?

Sweet tea.

CU LT URE

I N T E RV I E W

Eric Davis Director of Parks and Recreation Dorchester County What’s your go-to local restaurant?

Charleston Bakery and Delicatessen in Summerville. They have something for everyone including my wife, Amanda, who misses the delis and bakeries from her New Jersey youth!

I recommend the tomato pie.

Is there anywhere in the Palmetto State that you would like to visit that you haven’t had a chance to explore yet?

Believe it or not, I have never been to our state’s only National Park—Congaree N.P. I have no excuse and plan to visit soon!

What’s your pick for South Carolina’s best kept secret?

I think the Foothills Trail is SC’s best kept secret. Most folks are familiar with the Appalachian Trail, but the relatively shorter Foothills Trail is an extremely high quality hiking and backpacking trail. Its snaking route through the Blue Ridge escarpment offers a unique experience of trout streams, waterfalls, mountain lakes, breathtaking vistas, and ease of accessibility. I wish I had utilized it more as a youth growing up nearby in Pickens County.

What are you a fan of ?

I am fanatical about surfing, paddling, and the North Carolina Tarheels.

What is your favorite music?

I like to think I have lots of favorite music and bands, but if you asked my friends and family, they would undoubtedly tell you Widespread Panic is at the top of my list!

It’s tough to beat a good old southern rock jam band.

If you had to pick one spot to take a picture that reminds you of SC where would that be?

I would choose the cistern at my alma mater, College of Charleston. There’s something about the oaks, Spanish moss, and historic buildings in the cistern that take me back to some of my most influential years in SC.

The Natural Playground of the Lowcountry

THE NATURAL PLAYGROUND OF THE LOWCOUNTRY

Dorchester

Harleyville

St. George

Ridgeville

Reevesville

Just minutes away from the hustle & bustle of Charleston you’ll find a totally different side of the

Lowcountry. Our charming small towns are connected by wooded landscapes, outdoor adventures, winding rivers, and centuries of history. Spend the night in a treehouse on the river, go kayaking or birding in the ancient cypress swamps, stop in for some farm fresh produce at the market, or visit historic sites that remain standing in time... whatever you do you are bound to experience some authentic rural South Carolina charm.

www.villagesofdorchestersc.com

www.villageofsaintgeorge.com palmettomagazine.com

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F IE L D

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CU LT URE

ELIZABETH DONEHUE Arbiter of social graces, with a heart for simple hospitality and a tendency for adventure, Elizabeth lives in Summerville, SC with her husband, Wesley, sons, Harlowe and Tennyson, and yorkie, Gucci.

" One does not leave a convivial party before closing time.

"

Winston Churchill

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ETIQUETTE

Pregame Jubilee A Guide to a Winning Tailgate Strategy Welcome to tailgate season in the South! It’s official… football has returned and the tailgate is in play. We as Southerners know that tailgating is not just a way to kill time before kickoff—it’s as important as the game itself ! Make sure your pregame celebration is ready with this simple checklist of tailgating essentials: Tent - Pop up your team-colored tent to provide some shade, shield, and shelter from the sun and rain.

Bring paper plates, napkins, cups, and plastic ware in school colors. Disposables make for easy cleanup.

Lots of Food - Tailgating is all about sharing. Plan tasty foods that will travel well.

Décor - A tablecloth in school colors will suffice. Or if you prefer, decorate to the hilt! A silver candelabra, pack it! An over the top flower arrangement? You bet.

Keep it simple or go all out!

Chairs - Even the most seasoned tailgaters like a place to park every once in a while. Bring your collection of stadium chairs and be sure to bring extra for guests.

Tunes - Make an upbeat playlist. Be sure to pack a set of cordless speakers compatible with your iPhone.

Coolers - Can you ever have too many coolers? One for ice, beverages, and food that needs to stay chilled (or warm). Coolers also conveniently double as extra seats!

Tailgating is a tried and true Southern tradition.

Whether your team is winning or losing, you can always have a championship tailgate!

Trash bags and wipes for quick cleanup.

History is here Larry Doby Baseball Legend

Camden Archives & Museum camdenschistory.com

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place for you!

SOUTHERN NARRATIVE

History in the Making

A $5 million project is in the works at one of the South’s most significant plantation homes

by Jana Riley •

CH ARLEST ON ,

SC

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For the scores of people who have visited Drayton Hall since the National Trust for Historic Preservation acquired it in the 1970s, the winding paths through the grounds and stately home quite likely all led to variations of a unified thought: if only these walls could talk. Built between 1747 and 1752, Drayton Hall is the oldest stabilized plantation home still open to the public in North America, the only plantation house on the Ashley River to remain intact after both the Revolutionary and Civil wars, and the site of one of the oldest documented African-American cemeteries still in use. For decades, Drayton Hall visitors have often found themselves using a bit of imagination to fill the gaps between what is presented on site and what life at the home was truly like over the centuries; typically, they listen to an orientation talk outside the home before being led on a tour of the empty house. While visitors have always been able to ask questions and explore the property, without a true visitors or interpretive center, important artifacts and stories have never had a dedicated place to be showcased. But soon, thanks to the passionate drive of recently appointed CEO Carter Hudgins and his dream team of talented staff, all that is about to change.

Carter Hudgins began his relationship with Drayton Hall in his teens, spending his high school years working as a member of the grounds crew.

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Later, he spent time in Virginia, attending and graduating from HampdenSydney College and working as a site supervisor and archaeologist for the Jamestown Rediscovery Project in Jamestown. He went on to gain further education in London, focusing his studies on history and material culture, often recalling Drayton Hall, the place that made such a strong impact on him as a young man. After returning back to the United States, Hudgins contacted a former mentor at the historic site, George McDaniel, who told him about an employment opportunity at Drayton Hall. Hudgins applied for the job and became a part of the Drayton Hall team once again in December of 2006. The organization had recently received an endowment for the creation of a preservation department, enabling it to hire people with the skills to ensure the longevity of the property. Hudgins, armed with education, experience, and passion for the site, quickly set to work, helping to build immensely talented teams, organize initiatives, and plan for Drayton Hall’s future. Time and again, he and many of his coworkers came back to the same conclusion: Drayton Hall had so much more to offer than visitors were currently receiving. Hudgins made it his mission to come up with a solution.

Over the years, Hudgins moved up the ranks at Drayton Hall, switching

titles and responsibilities along the way. All the while, he gained further knowledge and insight about the home, the land, the family, and the enslaved people who lived at Drayton Hall. In 2015, following a national search, he was named President and CEO of Drayton Hall, taking over the position of former CEO George McDaniel. During his illustrious 26-year tenure, McDaniel led the charge for protecting the home and telling its stories, and he was particularly dedicated to the cause of building an interpretive center on the site, a mission that was fraught with challenges along the way as funds continuously needed to be redirected for more pressing matters. After McDaniel’s retirement, Hudgins and the Drayton Hall team continued the quest for a place where the broader story of the historic site could be told, and they finally succeeded in securing enough funding for the project. Now, the dream long-held by many who are passionate about Drayton Hall will be realized.

“This is the most significant construction since the main house was built in the 1740’s,” says Carter Hudgins. “It is an extensive project encompassThings of the Past Left to right: Drayton Hall’s CEO Carter Hudgins; these original artifacts will soon have a new home in the interpretive center; ornate plaster work on the ceiling in the main house; a view from the front entrance of the main house

ing new roads, parking areas, a new gate house, bathrooms, and all of the crucial components of an expansion. But what is really exciting is the new visitor’s center, which we made a priority, and the exhibit galleries. For the first time ever, visitors will be able to connect with historical objects significant to Drayton Hall.”

Recently, the preservation department at Drayton Hall established an initiative to identify objects that originated at the site with the intention of bringing them back. Working with museums, private collectors, and descendants of the people who called the land home, they have been able to build an impressive collection of artifacts, ready to share with the world.

There is a steamer trunk belonging to Dr. John Drayton, found all the way in Mexico. There is an arithmetic book from the 1730’s belonging to the original builder, John Drayton, which includes lessons on plantation economics. There are antique architectural pattern books, wallpaper samples, and an early blueprint of Drayton Hall itself. There are a few dozen pieces of furniture, hundreds of smaller items, and well over a million pieces of archeological finds. Photographs will be on display depicting the changes the site underwent over time, and one of the first exhibits will tell the story of the construction of Drayton Hall. For the dedicated preservation staff,

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A Living Tribute This page: Renderings on the new additions coming to Drayton Hall. Opposite clockwise: Original tiles that once adorned the walls of Drayton Hall; a staircase just inside the rear entrance of the main house; on display in the interpretive center will be a collection of original furniture; the main house at Drayton Hall is intentionally unfurnished to showcase the ornate architectural features

presentation is everything.

“I firmly believe that you can’t understand the complete history of anything without delving into multiple perspectives,” says Hudgins. “In the new interpretive center and exhibition galleries, just as we do on our house tours today, we will examine the lives and contributions of the Drayton family as well as the enslaved people who lived here for so many years. We will also emphasize how we know the things we know: for instance, when we place a chair on exhibit, we want to discuss how it was constructed, what it might tell us about Drayton Hall, and what it might tell us about the person who made the chair. We want to bring an enjoyable and comprehensive learning experience to our visitors.”

The $5 million project is set to be officially unveiled in the spring of 2018, just in time to be surrounded by the beautiful blooms of the Lowcountry. Designed by architect Glenn Keyes, the new experiences at the Sally Reahard Visitors Center are expected to double the amount of time visi24 p a l m e t t o m a g a z i n e . c o m

In the new interpretive center and exhibition galleries, just as we do on our house tours today, we will examine the lives and contributions of the Drayton family as well as the enslaved people who lived here for so many years.

tors stay on-site, providing guests with a wealth of new knowledge and increased understanding. Additionally, the staff hopes that the quieter features of the project, including gardens featuring historically relevant plants, new and improved pathways moving visitors through the property appropriately, and an updated gift shop will enhance the overall enjoyment of the visitor experience. Most importantly, Hudgins hopes that everyone who comes to Drayton Hall leaves with a renewed sense of cultural and historical understanding.

“There is real power to seeing objects in context,” Hudgins says. “Drayton Hall represents the full spectrum of the history of the Lowcountry, and these tangible elements of the past can help people to achieve a greater understanding of our present.

We can’t wait to share them with the world.”

The Drayton Hall expansion will be unveiled in the Spring of 2018. For updates, visit draytonhall.org, or find the organization on social media sites.

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DRIVE IT.

BOAT IT.

HIKE IT.

THE OPPORTUNITES ARE ENDLESS

Our town square hasn’t changed much in appearance since the 1700’s, but from our world-renowned pottery to shopping, local eateries, museums, outdoor adventures, live theater, historic sites and even our own moonshine distillery... exploring Edgefield has never been so charming.

Arts & Antiques

Locally Owned Restaurants

Living History

Live Theater

Wildlife Conservation

Heritage Attractions

www.E x p l o r e E d g e f i e l d .com Call (803) 637-4010 for Visitor Information

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BIKE IT.

MountainLakesSC.com

Into the Woods Forester Amy McFadden

SOUTHERN NARRATIVE W hite Oak Forest Management

Land of Opportunity A South Carolina forester brings a responsible approach to managing the land of our state while helping individuals profit from their assets

by Jana Riley

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GE O R GE TO WN ,

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Amy McFadden has always loved the outdoors. A Georgetown resident and the owner of White Oak Forestry Management, McFadden has been involved in the South Carolina forestry sector long enough to have seen some of her first tree plantings thinned, clear cut, and replanted, and has spent years of her life traveling down the rural, dusty dirt roads of our state. For many individuals in the Pee Dee region, life has changed dramatically because they called Amy McFadden: once they met her, they finally found a way to make their land work for them.

Growing up in the Pennsylvania suburbs, McFadden and her family spent weekends and holidays at a vacation home in the Pocono Mountains, where she soaked in her natural surroundings. Upon arrival to her freshman year at Pennsylvania State University,

McFadden began her studies in Landscape Architecture, determined to pursue a career path that incorporated her love for nature. One of her first classes focused on blueprint drawings, and quickly McFadden knew she needed to refocus her direction.

“As soon as I started making my first blueprint, I realized that I didn’t want to be the person doing

the drawing, I’d rather be the person who was outside, interpreting the blueprint,” McFadden remembers.

Immediately, she met with a counselor at the Penn State College of Agriculture and examined the list of possible career paths once again. She settled on Forestry, and after three years of studies, acquired a summer internship palmettomagazine.com

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at Appleton Papers, now called Appvion, which introduced her to the industrial side of the industry. She returned to Penn State to complete her senior year, graduated with a Bachelor of Science degree, and began applying for jobs. The International Paper Company, the largest pulp and paper company in the world, accepted her application and sent McFadden to their Georgetown, South Carolina offices. She worked for the International Paper Company for six years, including a stint in Georgia, before leaving to teach Forestry at Horry Georgetown Technical College in 2000. During the summers, she began picking up consulting forestry work.

After four years, she turned her side job into a full-time business. She officially opened White Oak Forestry Management in 2004, enabling her to share a decade worth of skills and knowledge with private citizens and beyond.

Today, McFadden and her four employees work with landowners to devise plans for profitable property management. She maps the property, cruises the timber, and discusses how the owner uses the acreage. Then, she and her team devise a long-term plan, advising the client on what needs to be done to achieve their goals. More often than not, the landowners are looking for ways to make their property profitable, so McFadden works closely with regional timber buyers who, in turn, work with regional sawmills and paper mills, enabling clients to have appropriate areas of their property harvested and replanted.

A lot of people don’t realize the asset they have. They know they have trees on their property and that it looks pretty, but they don’t realize they can manage those trees, and that the land can pay for itself.

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Timber A young pine tree

along in the truck and spin tales about their lives, past and present.

“A lot of people don’t realize the asset they have,” explains McFadden. “They know they have trees on their property and that it looks pretty, but they don’t realize they can manage those trees, and that the land can pay for itself. You can have your timber cut and sold while managing wildlife, paying your tax bill, and being able to make improvements to your acreage with the profit. At the same time, you can always have trees, and you can regenerate and manage them.

You really can make your property work for you, if you plan correctly.”

McFadden and her team work with vastly different client types, including investors, landowners far removed from their property, and landowners who live on or near their property. For the investors, solely interested in making as much money as possible from their purpose-driven land purchases, White Oak will manage the entire process: planting, fertilizing, and harvesting the timber crop to feed the mills. For the landowners who may live out of state, often having acquired property in an inheritance and never visited before, McFadden and her team will serve as the sole eyes for them on the ground, letting them know what needs to be done to make the land profitable and overseeing the whole operation. On the other side of things, the private landowners who reside, hunt, or ride horses on their property often just need a bit of guidance with timber management, and are more than happy to accompany McFadden

The stories that come from a quick jaunt around the property are motivating for McFadden, inspiring her to excel at her mission. Recently, she began working with a landowner on some property he purchased, helping him to establish it as a steady stream of revenue. The client, a father of toddlers, enlisted the help of McFadden in hopes of being able to fund their college tuition with the land. Another client came to White Oak after acquiring property in an inheritance. The estate taxes were so high that the customer was considering selling the farm, but McFadden worked with the Pee Dee land trust to put a conservation easement on the property, committing to manage it as timber land in perpetuity.

The decision greatly reduced the value of the property and lowered the taxes, cemented its future as a beautiful area free from development, and allowed the family to keep the farm. For every job, McFadden brings an unbiased, educated approach, assisting the landowner in making the right decision for them based on her years of experience and stewardship to the earth.

Now in her 13th year running White Oak Forestry Management, McFadden divides her time between taking on new clients, assisting former clients when needed and when their plantings grow to maturity, and volunteering locally whenever she has the opportunity to do so. For her, forestry management is a calling in an industry that impacts the world every day.

“From the time Noah built the ark, people have been using timber to provide for daily life,” McFadden says. “Thousands of years later, we are still using trees to provide for daily life. That is a testament to forests being managed. With our population growing the way that it is, there has to be a plan to provide for the amount of paper and lumber products people use while maintaining our forests, clean air, and clean water. That is why I do what I do.”

America’s oldest preserved plantation house still open to the public.

An AmericAn icon

Charleston, SC | 843.769.2600 | draytonhall.org |

Take in a live theatre show.

Grab a craft brew with some friends.

Pop in one of our shops or eateries.

Enjoy one of our award-winning festivals.

Explore a hidden swimming hole on the lake.

Browse our farm fresh produce.

There is always something blooming… for everyone…in Greenwood!

www.

SOUTH CAROLINA

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visitgreenwoodsc

.com

Community Cornerstone A local favorite for eight decades; Levern Darby has been the man behind the famous BBQ for almost 40 years

SOUTHERNNARRATIVE C oo pe r ’s C o u n t r y S to r e

The Compass of a Community

For generations, on the map of a changing world, Cooper’s Country Store has been true north for a community and for those who pause at the crossroads of the road less traveled

by Susan Frampton

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S O UT H

C A RO L I N A

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For as long as he can remember, Cooper’s Country Store has served as a compass for Salters resident, Mark Tims. Despite the fact that he’s been eligible to vote for well over a decade, when he swings open the door of the two-story, white clapboard building, Russell Cooper nods to the man he refers to as “young Mark,” and from behind the cash register, Kelley Cooper smiles as though a beloved relative has come to visit.

Hollywood once created a television bar “where everybody knows your name,” and we all secretly wanted to hear ours shouted by the regulars sitting on the stools. We wonder in this day and age if that kind of place still exists, where time hangs suspended in the air, and people look out for one another. For over eighty years, on the stretch of highway linking Manning to Georgetown, Cooper’s Country Store has offered that variety of familiarity to those living in the small farm community and to untold thousands that make it a regular stop along the way.

“This store has been here my whole life,” says Tims, with a distinctive Williamsburg Country accent that is easy on the ears. “I use it as a landpalmettomagazine.com

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mark to give directions to my house. I used to come here with my dad, and now my little girl comes with me. They have everything, and if they don’t have it, they’ll try and find it for you. It’s that kind of place. They’re just real nice people.”

A steady stream of cars and pickup trucks pull under the second-story porch which shelters the gas pumps. There is no anonymous card reader to take your payment outside, and customers seem to welcome the excuse to go inside, where country hams hang inside a screened area, and today’s special of barbecue, red rice, and lima beans scent the midday air. The selection of hot foods changes daily, and Tims advises getting here early if you want to beat the crowd.

As he finishes up with a customer, owner Russell Cooper maneuvers between aisles stocked with a wildly varied range of goods to shake hands, apologizing for being so busy. It is not an unusual state for the store’s proprietor. Where else might the community go to mark a box of rifle bullets, a bag of concrete, two cured country hams, a half-pound of nails, and a quart of chicken bog off their shopping list with one stop?

Serving the community is a responsibility that Cooper’s family takes seriously, and family is at the heart of the store’s lineage. Cooper describes the offshoot that brought him to ownership. It is a song of the South that is rapidly fading from the music of modern times.

“The original store was built by Mr. Theron Burrows in 1937, when Highway 521 came through here. He was a cotton farmer, and his name is still in the window. My daddy’s brother married his daughter, and when Mr. Burrows died, my uncle took it over. Kelley, up front, is his daughter —and my cousin. I worked for him until he died, and then I took it over.

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Local Legend This page clockwise: A country ham in the ham safe; the cookhous; Copper’s delicious offerings.

Opposite: Cooper’s is where locals relax and catch up; fresh BBQ chicken

and passed things down within the circle of family. It seems likely that the tools, screws, nails, pipes, tie-downs, and wire on these shelves are meant to actually build something solid rather than simply replicate a Pinterest post. Washboards stacked against the wall have little to do with anyone’s abs—except for the exercise they might provide when used to scrub clothes by hand.

On simple wooden benches and a rocking chair in front of the cash register, folks sit and catch up with neighbors and friends who are are second, third, or even fourth generation locals.

Cooper chuckles at the information “pipeline” that runs directly through the store. “Everybody meets up here, and there are some pretty interesting conversations from time to time.

People will come to me and say, ‘I’m going to tell you this, but don’t tell anybody.’ By the end of the day, I will have heard it from ten different people.”

Cooper is soon pulled away to track down an item located somewhere between the peanut butter and gallon cans of hydraulic oil. From the kitchen, barbecue sandwiches send out smoke signals that are immediately picked up by those waiting at the counter, and the line at the cash register grows longer.

Soon the seasons will change, and so will the faces of those passing through; with beach traffic giving way to deer hunters, and then the Thanksgiving and Christmas crowd. Bike Week will find motorcycles and leather-clad riders parked under the pecan tree. Time will be set aside on all their journeys to revisit favorite memories of this special place.

Both my sons went off for college, and they’re with me now.”

“This was once a farming community with a lot of small farms,” he explains. “Tobacco farms, mostly. Now there are a couple of big farms and only a few small ones. The grocery business has dwindled, but hardware has grown, and we’ve added lumber. My sons, Russ and William, run that. We cook our own hogs every week and added the kitchen for the hot food. Other than that, we haven’t changed much.”

There is an authenticity to the worn, barewood floors and no frills displays that harkens back to a time when things were built to last —when we repaired things that were broken

And for those who live in the community, as they have for over three-quarters of a century, the crowded shelves of Cooper’s Country Store will provide the material needs of their daily lives, and the white building on the corner at the crossroads will be the compass that points them home—to the place where everybody knows their name.

“I’ll be right back to pay for this, Miz Kelley,” the eternally young Mark Tims says, stepping outside the front door with a bottle of Orange Crush.

“I know you will, Mark,” she says, nodding in his direction as she rings up the next customer. “I know you will.”

It really is that kind of place.

THE

LunneyMUSEUM House

This California-style bungalow was built in 1909 and occupied continuously by the Lunney family until 1969. Today the home and carriage house allows visitors to explore the unique Arts and Crafts architecture, a collection of Victorian furniture, and historic memorabilia from the area. The Lunney House is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is located adjacent to the Bertha Lee Strickland Cultural Museum.

Open Thursday - Sunday 1 pm - 5 pm or by appointment

Admission by donation 211 West South 1st Street, Seneca SC (864) 710-7494

www.lunneyhousemuseum.org

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• Illustration by Jason Wagener

by Su s a n Fr a m p t o n

Flying Lessons

Whether we are the ones balanced on the edge, or we sit holding our breath and watching from afar, leaving the nest is a leap of faith

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he tapping that came from the kitchen window as I stood waiting for the coffee to brew caught me off guard. No one less than ten feet tall should have been able to reach the panes that look out over the brick patio. I yelped when my glance revealed the face in the window.

Startled eyes gaze at me from behind a black mask, topped by a bright red coif that looked as though it might have been styled by an electric hedge trimmer. We stared at each other for the few seconds it took

us both to gather our wits. I burst out laughing, and the baby Cardinal gave a squawk of alarm before careening off the window ledge.

On the fence, his parents shook their feathered heads, calling out coordinates to their wayward son like air traffic controllers bringing in a 747. Junior ricocheted from the porch railing to the arm of the Adirondack chair, before frantically grasping a bough of Lady Bank Rose and riding the fragile limb like a rodeo rider on the back of a wild bull. Chest heaving, he regrouped as Mother and Father Cardinal palmettomagazine.com

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reviewed his first solo flight. It didn’t take an ornithologist to interpret their encouraging appeals. “Flap your wings, Junior!”

us, and though we bemoan the lack of time for ourselves, we cannot remember life before our children were the center of our universe.

Though the rite varies by species, it is most often the fall of the year that we humans see this scenario played out. This time of year, as yellow school buses dot the roadways, I think of those red bird parents and the feelings that accompany our children leaving the nest—the emotions that are equal parts exhilaration and apprehension, pride and pain, blind faith and crippling doubt.

But to everything there is a season, and there inevitably comes an autumn of change, a season that brings with it emotions as variegated as the turning leaves. As the summer garden leans tiredly into the afternoon sun, and the stifling heat of summer surrenders to brief, cool moments that will gradually diminish its hold on our days and nights, all across the land, children begin to unfurl the fragile, untried wings that will propel them into the world.

We humans have ample time to prepare ourselves for our children’s arrival in our lives. For nine months their ETA is broadcast across the arrival boards of our lives, first measured in months, then weeks, and then in a final countdown of days. We know at the outset that they are not ours to keep, but when they are placed in our arms, helpless, downy-soft and innocent, we cannot imagine that somewhere a clock immediately begins counting down the time to their departure.

In that moment, it is inconceivable that the day will come when they take off on their own.

There are no instructions issued with the piece of paper that bears their tiny footprint, no flight plan to follow, no test to prove that we’re ready or money-back guarantee in case things go wrong. There is no contract, and if there were, who would agree to the outrageous terms?

We bypass cocktails after work to race to seats on hard metal bleachers, forego all-inclusive beach vacations for weekends at Disneyworld, and swap out sedans for SUVs with juice-stained seats.

The hours are 24/7, and the work environment a mixed bag of blissful, hostile, hilarious, frustrating, fulfilling, chaotic, exhausting, worse than imaginable and better than one can ever dream. The position we take on requires the patience of Job, the survival skills of Rambo, Mother Theresa’s love and compassion, Schwarzenegger’s menacing, steely-eyed stare, and the ability to find humor in everything. Compensation is not based on any discernible rhyme or reason and might take the form of slobber, hugs, and kisses one day—and eye rolls, shoulder shrugs, and slammed doors the next.

But still we sign on, learning to fly on the job—carried into the air by a wing and a prayer. We sleep with one eye open, our ears tuned to our children’s breathing. We know that a closed bathroom door is an open invitation for someone to yell, “Mom!” We bypass cocktails after work to race to seats on hard metal bleachers, forego all-inclusive beach vacations for weekends at Disneyworld, and swap out sedans for SUVs with juice-stained seats. Being moms and dads defines

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Some will launch themselves into the brightly decorated and welcoming room of their first kindergarten class, with eyes round as saucers at the sounds and colors. Some will have been promoted from the familiarity of elementary school to the daunting new halls of middle or high schools, and those who walked with confidence as seniors, only months before, face empty dorm rooms far from everything familiar. Their wings falter and flutter with uncertainty, and we hold our breaths.

Whether we’ve had four, twelve, or eighteen years to get ready for it, the time comes far too quickly. They take off in a million different directions, and in a thousand different ways they will now be tested on the lessons we’ve taught them. “Flap your wings!” we call from atop the fence.

As they take flight, we feel a little bit as though we are freefalling.Whether it is for the few hours a day that they are in pre-school or the few months that they will be away at college, they have disappeared off our radar screens and out of our air space. It feels as though we’ve worked ourselves right out of a job, or at the very least, been handed a job description so vastly changed that we’re momentarily disoriented. It takes a little while to regain our cruising altitude, but we will find our way through the clouds, and so will they.

Out my window, a confident young red Cardinal perches on the porch railing. He soars across the patio to the Adirondack chair, before firmly grasping a limb of the Lady Bank Rose bush. Perhaps it is my imagination, but he seems to look directly into the window at me, as though he wants to let me know that he has passed his tests with flying colors.

“Flap your wings, Junior,” I whisper. It’s just a reminder—I know he’s got this. I give him a thumbs-up, and he takes off.

The Harbinger of Hospitality With a past rooted in historical significance, a grand home in Camden, SC is finally restored to its original glory

by Jana Riley photos by Dottie Rizzo

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n July of 1995, Frank and Riki Campbell opened the door to the home located at 1919 Lyttleton Street in Camden, previously known as The Hobkirk Inn, for the first time. Having just arrived from California with their young children, the couple was in search of the right place to raise their family. They had already decided on Camden, with its quaint streets, low housing prices, charming downtown area, and reputable school system. They had a list of houses to visit with their realtor before they would make a final decision on where they would be taking up residence. As they pulled into the drive at the old Hobkirk Inn, they gazed upon the wide front porch, seemingly endless amount of windows, and breathtaking antique architectural details. By the time they crossed the threshold, they knew. There would be no need to visit the other real estate listings. They were home.

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Grand Tour This page clockwise: The foyer surrounded by a grand staircase; formal living room; this avenue of crepe myrtles was built for a wedding on the property. Opposite page clockwise: the library is filled with natural light; a warm welcome; a mature Magnolia tree adorns the side of the property; the front porch is ready for entertaining

The charm of the old house struck them first. The 12-foot ceilings gave a larger-than-life feeling to the whole space, and the winding staircase immediately inspired dreams of their young daughter one day descending in a white wedding gown. Other details gave nods to the age and social stature of the home’s previous inhabitants: a button on the floor of the dining room had once been used to summon a butler; a tiny bathroom in the rear of the home had been for the gardener; and the carriage house in the backyard still stands. All intrigued the couple. There was a formal living room, formal dining room, sitting room, gentleman’s smoking room, and a veranda with more square footage than their entire West Coast home. The children, accustomed to suburban California neighborhoods, were fascinated by the three-acre yard, inquiring why the house sat “in the middle of a park.” Frank and Riki were also enamored by the obvious history of the place. Room by room, the Campbell family fell in love with the old Hobkirk Inn, a love which continued well past the walk-through, the purchase of the home, the eventual move-in process, and the palmettomagazine.com

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inevitable remodeling. For the Campbell family, it seemed that every day spent in their new home brought a new aspect of intrigue and enjoyment. As they learned more about its history, however, they became absolutely smitten.

Table Manners The formal dining room is perfectly equipped for a quiet dinner or a grand feast

The house at 1919 Lyttleton Street began its storied legacy in the 1850s as Pine Flat, built by Colonel William Shannon, a prominent Camden lawyer with 14 children. Shannon later became embroiled in a dispute with Colonel Ellerbe B.C. Cash of Cheraw, and in 1880, the two met each other for what would be the last legal duel in South Carolina. Cash won the gunfight, shooting Colonel William Shannon in the heart, and the duel set off nationwide outrage, leading to the outlawing of duels across the country. Not long after, Shannon’s widow sold Pine Flat to the owner of the nearby Haile Gold Mine, a New Yorker by the name of Captain Frank W. Eldredge. Finding the living quarters at the gold mine to be “a bit crude,” Eldredge purchased Pine Flat in hopes of providing more comfortable lodging for his pregnant wife. From the very start, he planned to open a hotel in the home. He named his new venture “The Hobkirk Inn,” and advertised rooms at a weekly rate before the sale of the home was even final. Once they had the deed in hand, the Eldredge family began construction, adding two guest wings to the house immediately, enabling them to host up to 125 visitors at once. Drawn to the mild climate and charming Southern hospitality, northerners began to flock to Camden, and one by one, other inns and guest houses opened, inspired by the success of the Hobkirk Inn. Railroad companies established lines through the town, while proprietors and hoteliers invested in local attractions, including horse racing, theater, shopping, hunting, fishing, and more. Eldredge himself built a golf course behind the Hobkirk Inn, single-handedly bringing the sport to Camden. Tourism flourished while Eldredge continued to make improvements in the Hobkirk Inn, perpetually seeking to better the guest experience. In 1912, Captain Eldredge, who came to be known as “the pioneer tourist hotel manager” passed away, leaving a legacy of hospitality that echoed throughout the hearts of Camden residents and beyond. Innkeepers and hotel managers relied on the example of Eldredge as they pressed on, establishing Camden as the go-to winter retreat for northern residents for nearly 50 years.

Eventually, the rise of airplane and automobile travel slowed progress, and as World War II began, the grand hotel era of Camden came to a halt. The Hobkirk Inn reverted back to a single-family home in the early 1940’s, while other hotels were destroyed by fire or intentionally razed. Though the town’s hotel heydey finally concluded, the impact the time period made on the people, industry, and overall spirit of Camden continues to shine to this day.

Over the decades following the war, the house at 1919 Lyttleton Street changed hands and was owned by, to name a few, the mayor of Camden in the fifties, the Rowland family in the sixties, and Dr. Lou Sell, an Indy style racecar driver. The house went through periods of destruction and renovation; the wings were torn down at one point, minor construction decisions were made throughout the home, and layers upon layers of paint were added as interior design choices evolved.

photo provided

In July of 1995, the old Hobkirk Inn finally landed in the hands of the Campbell family, who could not have been more overjoyed to assume responsibility for the charming estate. In the spirit of true Southern hospitality, they were welcomed with open arms by the neighbors, with one even bearing the large original key to the original front door lock; a prize taken during a party 65 years before. After assessing the property, the Campbells soon began to restore the home to its original beauty. They removed 17 layers of lead paint from the enormous house and its 72 window frames, and they stripped miles of wallpaper from the walls. Then, they repainted it all. They refinished the wood floors, gutted the kitchen, and installed a commercial stove and walk-in refrigerator. They camped out in the guest house for two months while a heating and air conditioning unit was installed in the main home, and they also renovated the downstairs bathrooms. They added a grand fountain and circular driveway at the entrance, updated the landscaping, and tended to the wrap-around porch. In the bar, they installed a custom, floor-to-ceiling wine room, and Riki Campbell filled the home with decor from their world travels and auction visits. As soon as the place was livable, the Campbells began to host both humble and elaborate functions. Once again, the old Hobkirk Inn was regularly full of visitors.

The Campbell family lived vibrantly and loved passionately in the Camden house, making memories with every passing day. For a time, it seemed that the old Hobkirk Inn would be their forever home.

But in 2009, Frank Campbell accepted a job offer in Lausanne, Switzerland. With the children off at college and beyond, the home began to sit empty more than it was inhabited. Frank and Riki palmettomagazine.com

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Classic Update This page clockwise: This workspace is a perfect blend of old and new; the kitchen is a study in form and function; John Paul Smith of JP Smith Builders.

Opposite page clockwise: Plush rugs lend an air of coziness to the minimalistic, marble-rich bathroom; an eclectic array of new and vintage furnishings make a house feel like home; a childfriendly room is a scaled down haven for the little ones; sunlight meets seventies in an upstairs bedroom.

moved to the Alps but held onto the Camden property for years in hopes that one of their children would want to move back in with their growing family. By 2016, though, it had become clear: it was time to sell the family home. Understanding that the house could use some more attention before being listed on the market, the Campbells hired JP Smith Builders to take over the renovations. The second floor had been relatively neglected over the years by the Campbell family in favor of focusing on a small business endeavor, and John Paul Smith and his team spent much of their time there, taking the upstairs down to the studs and rebuilding everything once again.

They did everything by hand, removing every door knob, hinge, light switch plate, and other hardware for cleaning and restoration before reinstalling.

The builders created closets in the five bedrooms, installed copious amounts of marble and modern fixtures in the baths, and gave special attention to the high ceilings and original floors. They strengthened the home from the subfloor, redid plumbing and electrical work, and installed high-tech home monitoring devices throughout. In preparation for the Campbell daughter’s wedding, JP Smith Builders also worked outside: reclaiming old water features, building a small deck around one of the fountains, and overseeing landscaping. The work took nearly a year, but when they were finished, the historic house shone with an understated elegance, restored in all its original glory.

Now having settled in Switzerland, the Campbells are ready to close the door to 1919 Lyttleton Street for the last time, hoping to pass the torch to a buyer who is as enamored with the place as they were during their twentytwo years there. More than just a house, the old Hobkirk Inn is a place steeped with history, a harbinger of hospitality, and a gathering place unlike any other. May the new owners find themselves connected to the soul of the beautiful plantation home, may they make memories to last a lifetime, and may the house at 1919 Lyttleton Street continue to stand in testament and reminder of a golden age gone by.

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SOUTHERN REVIVAL p g. 6 8

Fried Chicken. It is Sunday dinner gathered at Grandmother’s big round table, or a picnic spread across a checkered blanket on a summer day.

It is welcome home, and we’re going to miss you, and it is tender love on a platter during times of loss.

Introduction by Susan Frampton

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Brine Dining This page:Fresh oysters at The Ordinary. Opposite: Prep work at The 50Darling palmettomagazine.com

Though the idea of frying chicken is thought to have come to the United States from Scotland, it was the enslaved West African population that elevated the simple food’s flavor with spices and seasonings, creating a staple that has come to be synonymous with Southern cuisine. Once only a workingclass dish, today the perfume of drumsticks cooking in hot oil drifts along in the trade winds of the world to grace tables set with fine china as often as it does the disposable kind. No matter where we are or where we’re from—it takes us home.

Empires have been built around the humble yard bird, and though a white-suited colonel with a black string-tie will forever represent the commercial success of its finger-lickin’ goodness, there are those who would go down swinging over whose mom serves it up best.

Crispy or original, dressed for success or salt-and-peppersimple, it’s a fundamental favorite that lends flavor to our lives and feeds our souls with crispy, deep-fried southern comfort.

BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN WITH HOT HONEY DRIZZLE Ingredients 1/4 cup honey 2 tsp Tabasco 1/4 tsp dried crushed red pepper 3-4 lbs fryer chicken pieces 2 cups all-purpose flour, divided 1 tbsp garlic salt 1/2 tbsp paprika 1 1/2 tsp pepper, divided 2 tsp poultry seasoning 1 egg 3/4 cup buttermilk 1/2 tsp salt

Preparation For Hot Honey Sauce: In a small bowl, combine honey, Tabasco, and red pepper.

Stir well and set aside.

For Chicken: Heat oil in fryer to 375º.

In a large resealable plastic bag, combine 1 1/2 cups flour, garlic salt, paprika, 1 tsp pepper, and poultry seasoning. In shallow bowl, combine eggs, buttermilk, salt, and remaining flour and pepper. Dip chicken in egg mixture, then place in the bag and shake to coat. Place pieces in fryer and cook for 10-15 minutes or until juices run clear and chicken is cooked through. Drizzle honey mixture over chicken before serving.

SPICY FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH WITH BLUE CHEESE SL AW Ingredients 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 3 tbsp sugar 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 1/2 tsp dry mustard 1/4 tsp celery salt 1 tbsp mayonaise 3 cups cabbage coleslaw mix 1/4 cup blue cheese crumbles 1/2 cup ranch dressing Texas Pete sauce to taste Oil for frying 4 skinless boneless chicken breasts

3 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, divided 1 tbsp garlic salt 3 1/4 tsp pepper, divided 1 tbsp paprika 1/2 tsp poultry seasoning 1 tsp salt 2 egg yolks, beaten 1 1/2 cup water Sliced pickles Sandwich buns

Preparation For slaw: Combine first 6 ingredients in a large bowl and mix. Add cabbage and blue cheese crumbles and toss to combine. Place slaw in refrigerator until ready for use.

For hot ranch sauce: Combine ranch dressing and Texas Pete sauce to desired heat and place in refrigerator until ready for use.

For Chicken: Heat oil in fryer to 375ยบ. In medium bowl mix 2 cups of flour, garlic salt, 3 tsp pepper, paprika, and poultry seasoning. In separate bowl, stir together 1 1/3 cups of flour, salt, egg yolks, and water.

Pound chicken breasts flat on cutting board by covering with plastic wrap and pounding with a tenderizer mallet. Cut breasts in half. Moisten each piece of chicken with a little water then dip each side in dry mix. Shake off excess and dip in the wet mix, then dip in the dry mix again. Place pieces in fryer and cook for 10-15 minutes or until juices run clear and chicken is cooked through.

To assemble sandwiches, place chicken on bun, add hot ranch sauce and blue cheese slaw, and top with sliced pickles.

FRIED CHICKEN AND GRITS Ingredients For Sauce: 1 green bell pepper 1 red bell pepper 1 vidalia onion 1/3 cup butter 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1/2 tsp salt 1/8 tsp pepper 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup cream cheese 1/8 tsp paprika Yellow stone ground grits, prepared

For Chicken: Oil for frying 4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, cut in strips 1 can condensed cream of chicken soup 1 egg 1 tsp seasoning salt 2 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp oregano 1/2 tsp garlic powder 1/2 tsp paprika 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp pepper

Preparation Heat oil in fryer to 350Âş.

For Sauce: Remove and discard seeds from bell peppers. Cut in strips and then into 1 inch pieces. Slice and cut onion into 1 inch pieces. In a large skillet melt butter. Add bell peppers, onion, garlic, salt, and pepper. SautĂŠ on medium heat until tender. Reduce heat to low and add heavy cream, cream cheese and paprika. Continue stirring until sauce is creamy. Cover and remove from heat. Add additional cream or water if sauce is too thick.

Prepare grits according to package.

For Chicken: In shallow dish combine soup, egg, and seasoning salt. Mix well.

In resealable plastic bag mix flour, oregano, garlic powder, paprika, salt, and pepper.

Dip chicken strips in soup mixture and turn to coat evenly. Add pieces one at a time into plastic bag and shake to coat. Gently place in fryer. Fry chicken strips 7-10 minutes each or until juices run clear. Drain on paper towel.

Spoon grits into bowl. Top with two chicken strips and sauce.

SWEET TEA FRIED CHICKEN Ingredients Oil for frying 3 cups water 3 teabags 1/4 cup sugar 3 lbs fryer chicken pieces 2 cups all purpose flour 1 tbsp garlic salt 3 tbsp lemon pepper seasoning, divided 1 tsp poultry seasoning 1 tsp pepper 1 tsp paprika 2 eggs, beaten 1 cup buttermilk lemons for garnish (optional)

Preparation: Bring water to a boil. Stir in sugar. Add teabags and remove from heat. Allow tea to steep for 5 minutes. Discard teabags and allow tea to cool. Pour into large bowl and add chicken pieces. Allow to marinate in tea 4-6 hours or overnight, stirring and rearranging occasionally to ensure all pieces marinate properly.

Heat oil in fryer to 375ยบ. Combine flour, garlic salt, 2 tbsp lemon pepper, poultry seasoning, pepper, and paprika in shallow dish. In separate dish, combine eggs, buttermilk, and 1 tbsp lemon pepper. Remove chicken pieces from marinade and roll in soup mixture, then dredge in flour mixture.

Place pieces in fryer and cook for 10-15 minutes or until juices run clear and chicken is cooked through. Garnish with lemon slices if desired.

HUNTING FOR THE FUTURE WITH PROGRAMS AIMED AT HUNTERS WHO UNDERSTAND THE IMPORTANCE OF CONSERVATION, THE NATIONAL WILD TURKEY FEDERATION SHOOTS TO PRESERVE HABITAT AND HERITAGE FOR GENERATIONS TO COME

by S U S A N F R A M P T O N

It is very early on a chilly spring morning on a rural tract of land.

Two camouflage-clad figures at the base of an oak tree sit very still. It is a difficult task for a twelve-yearold under any circumstances, but for the young hunter who sits with her father, the excitement of the opening day of turkey season makes it all the more challenging. Since early fall, the two have worked together to prepare for this day, and she has learned how important it is to take care of the land so that it can support wildlife.

She studied hard to pass hunter's education, and for the first time she will put her knowledge to use In the field.

acre Hunting Heritage Center in Edgefield, SC, the flagship of the federation, Humphries explains that the organization “practices what it preaches,” offering unparalleled outdoor education, wildlife research, and sharing the results of ongoing applications of conservation techniques with others across the country. Their 10-year initiative: Save the Habitat. Save the Hunt, focuses NWTF’s efforts to address the biggest problems facing conservation today—the loss of 6,000 acres of habitat every day and declining participation in hunting.

As they wait, the sky begins to lighten. Hens roosting in the trees on the edge of the woods drop to the open space, bobbing their heads and clucking as they search for their morning meal. The gobble of the big Tom turkey shatters the stillness, and her eyes go wide at the unexpected sound. The bird struts boldly into the field—his feathered fan extended and beard dragging in the sandy soil. As the sun rises, the light catches the bronze feathers and bright blue of his head. Drumming and gobbling with all his might, he begins his courtship ritual. She is enthralled.

“We know that the future of conservation rests with outdoor enthusiasts who have learned basic wildlife management from the ground up. Our approach is to recruit, retain and reactivate a hunting population that is invested in the ecosystem as a whole—from pollinators and songbirds to game animals such as turkeys and deer.”

The fact that they leave empty-handed will be of no consequence when they later recount the morning spent watching the wild turkeys across the sandy field. Awed and amused by the birds’ complicated and competitive dance, they take away different but equally important and rewarding experiences.

One has passed the baton of stewardship, and the other has taken it to run into the future. Together, they have put into practice the mission of the National Wild Turkey Federation, an objective dedicated to the conservation of the wild turkey and the preservation of our hunting heritage.

It is an objective that Becky Humphries, CEO of National Wild Turkey Federation (NWTF) could not be more proud to advocate. It is also the guiding principle behind a platform that has been instrumental in the restoration of the wild turkey population in this country and the improvement of more than 17 million acres of wildlife habitat.

“NWTF has long understood the importance of active habitat management, and that the future of conservation depends largely on the recruitment and education of hunters,” she says of the mission that attracted her to the organization.

Humphries, a native of Michigan and former Director of the Michigan Department of Natural Resources and Environment, assumed leadership of NWTF in April, bringing more than 40 years of conservation and wildlife management experience to the table. Her dedication continues a legacy that began when NWTF was founded in 1973, and which is chronicled in the impressive Winchester Museum on the grounds of its headquarters.

But the organization does not rest on its impressive laurels. From the 70060 p a l m e t t o m a g a z i n e . c o m

Conserve. Hunt. Share. The words are at the heart of NWTF’s outreach programs. Women in the Outdoors, Wheelin’ Sportsmen, and JAKES ( Juniors Acquiring Knowledge, Ethics, and Sportsmanship), invite and encourage hunters and conservationists at all levels of experience and physical ability to help meet three critical goals: to conserve or enhance 4 million acres of critical habitat, recruit 1.5 million hunters, and open access to 500,000 acres for outdoor enjoyment.

To help facilitate those goals, Travis Sumner, NWTF Hunting Heritage and Habitat Specialist, who oversees the property and manages food plots at the Hunting Heritage Center, is busy cutting brush and making preparations for upcoming mentored events, designed to teach conservation principals and pass on the traditions of safe, ethical hunting. He has spent the morning with interns from a local high school who are participating in a wildlife management technique class. The students spend 1-2 hours at the Center every other day and will participate this winter in a gathering which will test the skills they have learned throughout the year.

Sumner stresses the role that mentors play in helping new hunters see the big picture, and through their programs NWTF has found that many who have hunted their entire lives now find even more enjoyment in passing along the culture to those new to outdoor interests. Though hunters currently pay for 80% of conservation funding through license purchases and excise taxes on equipment and more, one of the many lessons mentors teach by their example is that the harvest is secondary to the rewards of the outdoor experience.

On the far side of the Edgefield Center, NWTF’s premier shooting destination, the Palmetto Shooting Complex, helps fulfill the organization’s commitment to shooting sports, offering members and non-members access to two dedicated sporting clays courses, five trap and skeet fields, a 3D archery course, and a picturesque 9,300 square-foot pavilion.

As she oversees the many different facets of NWTF’s programs and projects, Humphries says she is optimistic about the future and encouraged by the role that NWTF continues to play in setting the standard.

She has observed better cooperation between government, for-profit, and not-for-profit agencies, resulting in larger-scale tracts of land being set aside as habitat across the nation. And though she is concerned that hunter population numbers have declined, as people become more concerned about sustainability—what they are eating and where their food comes from—she sees a trend toward greater acceptance of hunting.

“There have definitely been peaks and valleys throughout the years, but NWTF has proven that, with education and a culture of good conservation practices, we have the ability to mitigate the peaks and valleys of devastation and restoration.”

Miles away, a deer pauses beneath the pine canopy of a forest, and a

covey of quail scurries beneath a windrow of thick brush. From another direction, the tracks of a flock of wild turkeys lead to a magnificent bird standing on the edge of a dusty field. And thanks to the efforts of NWTF, somewhere a future steward of the land awaits the opportunity to step up and be a part of the future of conservation for us all.

Sumner tells his students to think of themselves as artists when approaching the management of fields and forests for wildlife, and of the land as their canvas. “They have to help create the landscape of plants, animals, and birds they want to see in their picture of the future,” Sumner says of helping students understand that preservation of natural resources takes effort.

Women have proven to be the fastest-growing sector of the hunting population, and the organization’s Women in the Outdoors Program

hosts opportunities for affordable introduction to hunting classes, as well as other activities such as archery, fly-fishing, shooting sports, and more.

Through Juniors Acquiring Knowledge, Ethics, and Sportsmanship, better known as the JAKES program, youngsters are offered age-appropriate activities and events. Xtreme JAKES provides teens with more advanced outdoor opportunities, and JAKES Take Aim gives youth the chance to try target shooting, clay target shooting, and other shooting sports in a safe, fun environment.

Recognizing a need to provide for those with disabilities to be able to enjoy hunting and the shooting sports, NWTF’s Wheelin’ Sportsmen Program events open up outdoor activities to those who might not otherwise have opportunities due to lack of hunting land access, knowledge of how to return to the field after an injury, or a need for assistance in the field.

BEAUTIFUL

Morning Glory Wrapping up a morning paddle on the Edisto River

BLACKWATER

Edisto River enthusiasts come together to help visitors navigate the unspoiled, meandering waterway

by J A N A R I L E Y Photos by D O T T I E R I Z Z O

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Earl Johnson looks up at the sky, shielding his eyes from the sun’s rays peeking through the ominous clouds. He nods approvingly. “Yep, we will be fine,” he says confidently. “It may rain a little, but it won’t get intense.” He then moves among the boats on the ground fluidly, checking straps, handing out paddles, and offering advice for stashing cargo. Settling into his own kayak, he pushes off the bank, and the group around him follows. An air of excitement fills the still waterscape, and as the paddles slice through the blackwater of the Edisto River, the adventure begins.

At over 250 miles long, the Edisto River is one of the longest free-flowing blackwater rivers in North America, snaking across South Carolina from Saluda and Edgefield counties until it spills into the Atlantic Ocean near Edisto Beach. It maintains a distinctly rural charm, accessible mostly through back roads, smaller state parks, and preserves, and only runs through one major city—Orangeburg—along its path. To some, it is one of South Carolina’s best-kept secrets: a treasured place, the site of countless memories made, and an ideal adventure spot. To others, the Edisto River is a sight yet unseen, a place that waits to reward even the most timid explorer with the unrelenting beauty of untouched nature.

In 2015, Dorchester County began working to improve the recreational opportunities along its portion of the Edisto River. During their information-gathering phase, they quickly realized that Colleton County had an existing, but slightly neglected, project targeting their portion of the Edisto: The Edisto River Canoe and Kayak (ERCK) Trail. The two counties decided to work together on revitalizing the project,

splitting part of the cost and acquiring a marketing grant from the South Carolina National Heritage Corridor. With the shared goal of bringing more of the younger generations to the waters of the Edisto, the team updated the logo and built a new website, filling it with helpful information. They overhauled the state map to include the 62-mile stretch of river between both counties, as well as information on access points, amenities, hours of operation for parks and preserves, GPS coordinates, parking availability, wildlife facts, river etiquette suggestions, river safety advice, and more.

Then, they printed waterproof hard copies of the map, perfect for navigating the water, and began selling them for five dollars at Givhans Ferry State Park, Colleton State Park, Colleton County Recreation Center, and by mail through Dorchester County Parks and Recreation. The proceeds all flow right back to the ERCK Trail Commission, enabling them to print more maps and manage the trail more effectively.

Now, after years of hard work, the team is beginning to see results: traffic hits to the website keep going up as paddlers plan routes, check for access point closings, research accommodations, and learn more about events hosted by the ERCK Commission. Access points listed on the map are becoming more populated, especially on weekends and holidays. And river outfitters who helped fund additional map printings, like Earl Johnson of Edisto River Adventures, are reporting an influx of visitors from both near and far.

Johnson grew up exploring the waters of the Edisto, just up the river from where he now owns and operates Edisto River Adventures along with his wife, Julie, and their two sons. He acquired the company in June 2016, and since then, Johnson has seen the number of people on the river grow exponentially.

“We took over in June, so we went into fall and winter pretty quickly,” remembers Johnson. “Even so, it seemed like every weekend I’d say, ‘We need to order more tubes.’ We could barely keep up with the amount of visitors we had coming through here for a while; it just seemed like every weekend brought more and more people. We ended up buying a ton of new equipment because of it, and now we average about 150 customers per weekend.”

Most popular at Edisto River Adventures is the tubing option, where groups of friends can rent tubes for both themselves and their coolers and relax as the gentle current guides them down the blackwater trail. The tubing trips are a hit with bachelor and bachelorette parties, and Johnson regularly drives to Downtown Charleston and the surrounding islands to pick up groups of excited men and women from all over the world, ready to make memories together before the nuptials occur. He brings them to his outpost on the Edisto, not too far from Givhans Ferry State Park, and sets them up with everything they need before sending them out on the river. After the float, Johnson picks them up at a pre-planned landing, and brings them back to his outpost where they have cookouts, play volleyball, sunbathe on the beach, and swim

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before being shuttled back to their rental houses. Inevitably, either through email, text, or social media, Johnson hears feedback about the excursions from attendees. Each time, it encourages him to continue to strive for stellar experiences.

“I had a 35-year-old guy tell me that a day spent out here with us on the river was the best day of his life,” says Johnson.

“That means a lot. The fact that people come from all over the world and enjoy this river so much makes me take pride in my home, in the Edisto. It really is a special place.”

ing to the customer’s needs. Some want to start upstream and kayak down to the beach at Edisto River Adventures, while others prefer to leave from the outpost and get picked up downriver. Some want a half-day outing, while others plan multi-day trips, utilizing Johnson’s knowledge of the river to plan camping spots along the way. No matter what the itinerary, Johnson’s guests always come back to the outpost enthralled by their natural surroundings, full of stories to tell about their adventures.

The fact that people come from all over the world and enjoy this river so much makes me take pride in my home, in the Edisto. It really is a special place.

Whether on a tube, surrounded by a dozen friends, or in a kayak, alone; whether doing yoga on a stand-up paddleboard or cozying up with a loved one on a canoe ride, the Edisto lends itself beautifully to a wealth of experiences. Armed with an ERCK trail map and an intrepid spirit, or guided by an outfitter such as Earl Johnson, explorers can quickly find themselves among majestic creatures such as bald eagles, osprey, deer, and great blue herons, surrounded by the symphony only nature can provide. Both serene and thrilling, the Edisto is to each person whatever they make of it, but it always remains a treasure of the American South.

In addition to organizing tubing adventures, Johnson regularly leads canoe and kayak expeditions, tailoring each book-

For more information about the Edisto River Canoe and Kayak Trail, including outfitter information, visit www.ercktrail.org.

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A CITY SCOUT

Greenville

S O U T H E R N

R E V I V A L HYPED AS ONE OF THE SOUTH’S BEST REDEMPTION STORIES, GREENVILLE HAS NOW EVOLVED INTO ONE OF THE MOST INSPIRED CITIES IN SOUTH CAROLINA

by

G R A C E N E LS O N

Photos by

DOTTIE RIZZO

Upstate Escape This page: Watermelon salad at Brazwells Pub; Furman University Bell Tower. Opposite: a couple relaxing on the rocks in the Reedy River at Falls Park

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Inspired Living This page: Whit Lanning and Brett Terrapin at Birds Fly South Ale Project; a view of Main Street from the doors of M. Judson Booksellers.

Opposite page clockwise: A plate of brisket and sides at Brazwells Pub; swimming and paddling at Paris Mountain State Park; a carriage ride downtown; We Took to the Woods is a retail shop that celebrates the balance of old and new

photo by by Sean Rayford

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Greenville is no longer an emerging work-in-progress striving towards greatness. This city has firmly cemented its place as a vibrant Upstate hub, contagious with energy and bursting at the seams with experiences like nowhere else in the state.

HOW IT ALL BEGAN

The landscape we all know as Greenville was once Cherokee hunting ground and forbidden to colonists looking to settle here. Richard Pearis, a trader from Virginia who happened to live with a chief ’s daughter, was able to acquire about 100,000 acres (including the current location of downtown Greenville) to set up a plantation along the Reedy River. After the Revolutionary War, Greenville County was formed and most likely named for the much celebrated General Nathanael Greene. The county seat was called Pleasantburg. Through the years following, the Richard Pearis land passed through many hands. The city was renamed Greenville in 1831 and was soon bustling with schools, churches, mills, vacation homes for the Lowcountry planters, and eventually a new fireproof courthouse designed by none other than Robert Mills.

The first Greenville and Columbia railroad train arrived at the depot in 1853, opening up the area to even more commerce, including one of the largest coach manufacturing companies in the south. Greenville remained mostly untouched during the Civil War, besides a brief appearance by Jefferson Davis as he fled with his stash of now-vanished Confederate gold. During Reconstruction, the first bridge over the Reedy was built, followed by more

mills, rail lines, and subsequently free public schools, a pipe system for water and sewer, and electric lights.

Like most of the state, Greenville fell on hard times thanks to the boll weevil, a textile strike, and the fallout from both World Wars. Interstates drew traffic further and further from downtown and caused more than a few storefront vacancies. The late 1960s were a desperately needed turning point as local leaders worked to create a downtown development plan focused on transforming Main Street. Their efforts began to show most noticeably downtown, with free angled parking, new trees, decorative light fixtures, and widened sidewalks providing space for outdoor dining. Things picked up speed when large-scale anchor projects became a reality and high-powered industry followed suit.

Greenville has since collected a number of accolades including Top 10 Best Downtowns in the Country from Livability and called “a national model for a pedestrian-friendly city center” by The New York Times.

GREENVILLE OF TODAY

Downtown At the core of Greenville from the very beginning, the Reedy River leads into the heart of downtown. The waterfalls on the river (formerly obscured by a four-lane highway) are now an icon of downtown, a flowing symbol of a beautiful city once hidden. Falls Park is a must-stop, where you can lounge on the river banks and picnic or grab a bite at Mary’s Restaurant, Passerelle Bistro, or any of the number of downtown restaurants within walking distance. Falls Park is also a piece of The Swamp Rabbit Trail, a 20-mile multi-use trail net-

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Street Cred This page clockwise: Passerelle French Bistro at Falls Park; the downtown trolleys are free and run Thursday though Sunday; a mountain trail at Paris Mountain State Park; Downtown Greenville is littered with unique street performers. Opposite page: A fresh pour at Birds Fly South Ale Project; service with a smile at Brazwells Pub; street dinning on Main Street

work that follows the Reedy River and ultimately connects Greenville with the city of Travelers Rest.

The downtown district is easily accessible to pedestrians, but new ways to explore are now available, including Segway tours, carriage rides, tours dedicated to history and architecture, and even a free trolley that operates Thursdays through Sundays. The weekends are always hopping downtown, which usually has a charming ambiance, commonly provided by street performers ranging from banjo players to dancers.

As for downtown lodging, the Hyatt Regency is the option most convenient for browsing North Main (NOMA) Square, the largest plaza in Greenville with charming specialty shops like Oil & Vinegar and Kilwins Chocolate, Fudge & Ice Cream. Roost is a staple on this side of town for their farm-totable lunch served buffet-style. NOMA is also the backdrop for several free community events like swing dancing, yoga, live music, and Oktoberfest.

For those who enjoy a little history with their hotel, The Westin Poinsett should be at the top of the list to visit. The Poinsett opened in 1925 on the original spot of the Mansion House Hotel, which operated for over a century before closing. The new Poinsett was the place to stay for the rich and famous, welcoming many guests of note including Amelia Earhart, Cornelius Vanderbilt, Bobby Kennedy, and Liberace. The Poinsett struggled through the Depression era, the hotel and motel boom, and foreclosure before it was fully renovated and triumphantly opened its doors again as The Westin Poinsett in 2000. The Poinsett’s restaurant, Spoonbread, is the perfect casual spot for breakfast, lunch, and Sunday brunch.

Shopping Along with plenty of nationally recognized names, Greenville has attracted a remarkably diverse list of locally owned boutiques. Cone & Coleman is everything plush and high-class. The owners here display a painstakingly selected collection of clothing plucked from brands around the world, and the grandly decorated space makes shopping here more of a fashion experience than a shopping errand. We Took to the Woods is the spot that merges things old and new. From award-winning handcrafted candles to home decor, everything here is displayed with a focus on season with a unique twist on items styled with attention to traditional-meets-modern.

Though only open since 2003 as a part of a larger network throughout the south, the Mast General Store is an older chapter in the Greenville history

book. The building began its retail legacy in 1898 as a dry goods and shoe store before expanding in 1913 as the Meyers-Arnold Department Store. The family operation carried a little bit of everything and operated in this space until 1971.

The pressed tin ceiling and maple floors are reminiscent of the old days as you peruse the current Mast General Store inventory which still, ironically, has a little bit of everything from outdoor gear to fashion accessories.

A harbor for creative souls is found right here at M. Judson Books. It is anything but your traditional bookstore and everything cultural core. Their selfproclaimed “story-centered lifestyle” is apparent in the assortment of gifts, vintage pieces, and shelves lined with Southern literature. However the community events are the spirit of M. Judson Books and feature themes such as art exhibits, author signings, and their sell-out monthly suppers with a farm-inspired menu. M. Judson feels more like a society and an on-going conversation than a store, which makes sense as it was inspired by Mary Camilla Judson, the founder of the Judson Literary Society that historically dates back to the turn of the century in Greenville.

Culinary The flourishing foodie scene that Greenville has been cultivating is no longer a secret. Inspiring dishes are the norm and can be found in every hole-in-thewall, gastropub, and fine dining restaurant that calls Greenville home. With 100% Angus beef and dry-aged patty options as main ingredients, Grill Marks is the standout burger place. Burger concoctions range from the French Connection topped with caramelized onions and brie to the BONEafide with red wine compound butter and roasted bone marrow lettuce. One of these creations paired with white truffle parmesan fries and an adult milkshake makes a masterpiece of a meal.

Ideal for brunch, lunch specials, dinner, or even a late night snack, Brazwell’s Premium Pub plates up the classic items like wings and mozzarella sticks in addition to more unique options like the brisket quesadilla, fried corned beef, and watermelon salad.

For a new dessert place with a twist, check out Creme Shack on Main Street.

The new rolled ice-cream craze is dished up here with fun flavors like key lime pie or salted caramel pretzel.

Play Known as one of the premier American art museums in the country, the Greenville County Museum of Art displays pieces with strong connections

Natural Wonder This page: Liberty Bridge at falls Park; The Westin Hotel on Main St. Opposite page: Scenes of daily adventures in Greenville

to the South. Here you can browse the substantial collection or partake in one of their many special events and programs. Sunday afternoons feature free lectures, musical performances, and hands-on-demonstrations. The museum is also home to the world’s largest public collection of watercolors by Andrew Wyeth along with a significant collection of work by Jasper Johns. photo provided

Just for the kiddos, the Children’s Museum of the Upstate has 80,000 square feet, 3 floors, and 19 interactive exhibits worth of entertainment. Exhibit options are perfect for all ages from the Toddler Lily Pond to the Garage Rock musical experience. Other kid-centric activities around Greenville include searching out the nine bronze Mice on Main around town for a scavenger hunt experience or exploring The Greenville Zoo, which is home to hundreds of wildlife all over the world.

Another family favorite is Flour Field. Modeled after Fenway Park, Flour has its very own Green Monster and hosts more than 70 home games for the Greenville Drive, a Class A affiliate to the Boston Red Sox. The seating maxes out at 5,700 and ensures that there are no nose-bleed sections here.

A weekend in Greenville would be incomplete without taking in a show at the Warehouse Theatre. At least six productions per year grace the stage, with this season presenting The Cake by Bekah Brunstetter (December 1-17, 2017), A Moon for the Misbegotten by Eugene O’Neill ( January 26-February 10, 2018), The Flick by Annie Baker (March 9-24, 2018), and Much Ado about Nothing by William Shakespeare (April 20-May 5, 2018).

If you want to escape the city for a bit for the great outdoors, Paris Mountain State Park (named after the aforementioned first settler Richard Pearis) is definitely worth the short drive. The park has four lakes for fishing, boating, and swimming, 15 miles of trails for hiking and biking, camp sites, and an educational center. For stunning mountain views, be sure to venture to either Caesars Head (31 miles away) or Table Rock (28 miles away) state parks.

Admittedly, these suggestions are only a mere sample of what Greenville has to offer. The innovative and passionate spirit here will draw you in and may even convince you to stay. The initial revitalization stage is over, but transformation has never ceased. We can’t wait to see what happens next.

For more ideas on exploring Greenville, visit www.visitgreenvillesc.com.

S PE CI A L A DV E R T I S E ME N T

photo by Kevin Harrington

Sip and Savor A modern cocktail at Vault & Vator; serving up craft beer at Birds Fly South Ale Project

Already a culinary destination in its own right, carefully crafted beer and cocktails are at the center of an up and coming movement in Greenville. Imagination is at work behind the bar of many local haunts, and we had no complaints getting a taste of this new creative scene.

CRAFT BEER Blue Ridge Brewing Company With the distinguished honor of being the first craft brewery in South Carolina, Blue Ridge Brewing Company began in 1995 and now has a storefront in downtown Greer complete with rooftop dining. The five on-site handcrafted brews include a summer ale, blonde ale, pale ale, stout, and an extra special bitter. Blue Ridge is also a fa-

Greenville’s Crafting a Culture A new craft beer and cocktail scene is now rising and filling glasses all over Greenville vorite spot for good eats, especially for Sunday Brunch.

Shoeless Brewing Company The award for smallest brewery in the Upstate area goes to Shoeless Brewing Company; and they quite like it that way, thank you very much. The company may be modest and unassuming, but their on-tap list is far from it and includes everything from pale ales and IPAs to specials like a white coffee stout and

seasonals like an Irish Red. You can even try your hand at brewing your own batch here, either from their recipes or a creation all your own.

Birds Fly South Ale Project Perfectly at home in an early 1900s cotton warehouse, the Birds Fly South Ale Project brews up inventive farmhouse Saisons and sour beers using old-school techniques and sometimes collaborates with other local breweries. Experience

Birds Fly South via a tasting room, stand-up bar, outdoor patio, and Biergarten usually accompanied by live music.

The Brewery Experience There are many eclectic breweries to choose from in Greenville. But why choose? Gary Glancy, Certified Cicerone and leader of The Brewery Experience, offers tours of some of Greenville’s award-winning breweries including Brewery 85, which uses the traditional German brewing technique for their craft microbrewery tap room. Quest Brewing Company is also a stop on the tour but also offers weekly taproom events like trivia night and yoga.

Next on the tour is Swamp Rabbit Brewery and Taproom, conveniently located just a “hop, skip, and a jump” away from the Swamp Rabp a l m e t t o m a g a z i n e . c o m 79

photo by Kevin Harrington

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bit Trail in quaint Travelers Rest.

Thomas Creek Brewery is next up and has been family owned since 1998. Thomas Creek prides itself as using Blue Ridge Mountain water as the base of their creations that you can sample in their tasting room. Upstate Craft Beer Co. rounds out the Brewery Experience tour with a brew pub, full menu, homebrew shop, and u-brew on premise options. Bingo and music jam events are not to be missed during the week.

photo by Kevin Harrington

featuring plum brandy and black walnut bitters, or the Gary Busey Swizzle featuring flaming orange and Amaro Averna.

For the growler enthusiast, belly up to the brews on rotation at The Community Tap, Greenville Beer Exchange, Grateful Brew, and the newly opened Growler Haus.

CRAFTED COCKTAILS NOSE DIVE Gastropub The talented mixologists at NOSE DIVE are blending fresh and modern with old-fashioned and classic cocktails. The casually urban vibe is the perfect setting for indulging in the Coco Chanel

photo provided

GROWLERS

Local Flavor This page clockwise: The bar at the Hyatt Regency; mixing it up at Vault & Vator; inside The Community Tap; what’s on tap at The Community Tap; a classic cocktail at The Trappe Door. Opposite page clockwise: The tasting room at Birds Fly South Ale Project; Vault & Vator’s hand-crafted cocktails are inspired by the libations of the Prohibition era; an assortment of bottles for Birds Fly South Ale Project

Up on the Roof The sweeping views of downtown and the Blue Ridge Mountains are worth the visit to Up on the Roof alone, but the cocktails here are equally as picture-perfect. Try the Roof-Tini or The Reedy Peach and sample dishes like the smoked goat nachos for lunch and perhaps the duck and waffles for dinner.

Vault & Vator Greenville’s first speakeasy specializes in pre-prohibition cocktails with a modern twist. Located in a basement space that held the building’s original vault and elevator, Vault & Vator is a more than appropriate atmosphere to taste a Don’t Fear the Reaper or Vow of Silence. Feeling crafty yourself ?

Their afternoon classes cover different ways to hone your skills at creating and appreciating the perfect cocktail.

The Trappe Door This underground restaurant and pub is known for more than just its old-world Belgian-inspired dishes (yes, waffles are on the dessert menu). The Trappe Door also houses 10 taps and 150 bottles of Belgian beer, along with a fresh cocktail list that include a fresh twist on classics like the Trappe Door Moscow Mule and the Coal Miner’s Daughter.

Stone Pin Company Flat beers and greasy burgers at a bowling alley have a certain charm, but we have to admit that Stone Pin Company offers the same nostalgia while raising the bar for food and bev options. Choose between the aptly named A Different Approach with muddled strawberries or the Spare Me, which joins Jack Daniels and rosemary. Follow that up with a pork carnita or the pickle-brined fried chicken and enjoy the live entertainment (Thursdays through Saturdays) and plenty of free parking nearby.

S O UTHER N

THEOL OGY

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by Rachelle Cobb

When All Falls to Pieces For a girl who’s not a gift-giver, the first anniversary of our wedding day came with self-imposed pressure— and led to one casualty For our first anniversary this summer, my husband and I repeated our honeymoon and spent a week at Edisto Beach. Between movie nights in the beach house, visits to The Edisto Bookstore, and walks on the sandy, shelly shore, we set aside time on our actual anniversary to exchange gifts. But disaster struck mid-gift-giving ceremony—as it so often does when I’m not paying attention to the truth that it’s only God who gives perfect gifts.

I should explain that I am not normally a gift-giver. For those familiar with Chapman’s The Five Love Languages, I land squarely in the Words of Affirmation camp. As such, I cherish the words my husband prays over me and the notes he leaves me more than any gift he has given me.

Since he is also a words guy, before we were married, Devin and I decided that we didn’t feel the need to exchange gifts on our wedding day. “You’re all the gift I need,” he told me. Bless him, he didn’t yet know that I cry at commercials, rearrange our kitchen cabinets on a monthly basis, and habitually forget the laundry in the dryer because I become immersed in a writing project.

Unbeknownst to me and in direct opposition to the decision we had made, the man gave me a wedding gift after our reception: a beautiful Willow Tree figurine of a couple embracing, called the Promise.

Quickly getting over the fact that I didn’t have a gift to give him in return, I treasured it. Now that figurine holds a cherished place on the bookshelf in our living room.

But not long into our marriage, I decided our first anniversary would be my day to exact revenge of the most romantic kind. For a year, I plotted what to give him. For a year, I labored over the idea and execution. For a year, I planned.

A month before our trip back to Edisto, my husband arrived home with a beautiful white bag, stuffed with tissue paper. He placed it in a corner of our living room. I looked at it and back at him. “Is that my anniversary gift?”

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Illustration by Jason Wagener

Indeed it was. For a month, it taunted me, but I never peeked. For a month, I resisted temptation and only lifted it to vacuum beneath it—and test its weight. For a month, I waited for our trip and the day of our anniversary to arrive so I could finally open it—and also give him his gift.

I wanted so much to give him something that would represent my commitment to our next fifty years. I too often approach life with this give-and-take mentality without even realizing it. If I put a quarter in the cosmic vending machine, a soda will come out, right? If I let out the car waiting to turn into my lane, later on someone should show kindness to me. But daily life—much less the interstate—is hardly ever that fair.

Deep down I don’t actually believe in karma like that; I believe in the God who gives good gifts to his children even when we are so far from deserving. As James 1:17 says, “Every good thing given and every perfect gift is from above, coming down from the Father of lights, with whom there is no variation or shifting shadow” (NASB). Everything good comes from the God who is good.

But there we sat, on a couch in our rented beach house on beautiful Edisto, and I just wanted my husband to love what I’d made for him. At his feet on the beach house’s stone floor sat the white bag that had taunted me for a month. At mine, sat the bag containing the gift I had planned for a year.

First, I opened his gift to me to discover another Willow Tree figurine, again of a couple embracing but this time in a slightly different pose with a different, just-as-beautiful word beneath: Together.

I nearly cried. Thanking him, I leaned to pick up the bag with my gift to him.

The moment had come. I could hardly wait to see his reaction to how I had designed our wedding vows side-by-side in a lovely white frame. It was to be a visual reminder of our promises to each other.

As I reached for his gift, the Willow Tree couple fell from my lap to the floor and immediately shattered on the stone.

I did cry, then. For not only did the smithereens at my feet deem the gift beyond repair, it was the gentleman’s head that had smashed to bits. In horror at his headlessness, I cried all the harder. My kind husband held in laughter, reassured me we’d replace it, and opened his gift with the reaction I’d been waiting for.

Today, the new Together sits on the bookshelf along with Promise. Both—as well as the framed wedding vows in our bedroom—serve as a reminder that when life happens, our marriage will withstand because it’s built on something stronger than a Willow Tree: the God who is sometimes called the Rock. Even when all falls to pieces, He gives every good gift.

DELI IOUS Tucked in the heart of South Carolina, you’ll find a city that’s equal parts urban and low-key. After enjoying brunch at a sidewalk café or picking up a pulled pork sandwich from a takeaway hutch, there’s still room in this thriving metropolis to enjoy our gracious charm and a rollicking good time. Start your trip at ExperienceColumbiaSC.com