LOVE IS CALLING FOR WONDERLAND

Dissonance may create opposing interests and provoke their balancing, and it may be rectified by the process of overt conflict. Moreover, the resulting balance underlying nonconflict interaction may be upset by dissonance psychologically creating imaginary events or misperceptions of capabilities, interests, and wills.

R.J. Rummel

LoveIs Calling For

Wonderland (LICFW)is a surreal fashion collection that takes inspiration from Yayoi Kusama’s Love Is Calling art installation that explores the theme of life and death through endless reflection and bright colors, as well as the play on scales and distortion of reality from the world of Alice In Wonderland.

This collection showcases garments in darker silhouettes accented with pops of bright colors through the use of original prints. The first look from the collection represents life, and features a fully tailored jacket in vivid colors and ends with a look that while sculptural, is free-form and layered in scorched black organzas. The final look represents death.

LICFW subverts the design principle “Form Follows Function”, and suggests that ‘Function Follows Form”. This is done through the deliberate removal of traditional garment aspects such as armholes, sleeves, and openings, as well as disregarding proportions and fit. The wearer, while wearing the garment, is seemingly distorting their anatomy, thus embraces the design unapologetically.

mood

the artist is present

decay impermanence

colours of life slowly fading to blackcolours

look 1 : life

An oversized tailored coat with draped sleeves, This body features elements of formality and slouch, while giving off the look of a statuesque figure.

The oversized fit also reflects fashion as a form of protection and comfort. Many people wear oversized clothing to feel more confident and comfortable. By making an avant-garde design oversized, I am challenging the notion that avant-garde fashion is unwearable and unapproachable.

The removal of armholes is done deliberately to subvert the way that clothing is worn. Circular cutouts throughout the front and back of the coat allow the wearer to distort how their body is perceived; by placing their arms in different cutouts.

Printed wadded scarf presents a growing foreign body. It can be inserted in the cutouts and around the body to create the illusion of extra anatomy and further distort functionality.

Ophelia, Sir John Everett Millais

scatters

scatters is inspired by honey bees and the polination of flowers. The silhoutte is a take on traditional menswear shirt that is deconstructed into a winged shirt. Sleeves are removed and replaced with sections of gathered parts. These gathered parts form the ‘wings’.

Casings and toggles are used as a medium to adjust the gathers, making this shirt size-inclusive. Comfort and ease of wear is one of the main focus of the design.

Print used in the design is developed from the designer’s original artwork. It represents the colors of honey bees and the pollens they carry on their bodies.

The shirt is paired with 1960s inspired swimsuit with prints taken from painting of ‘Fall of Icarus’ by Jacob Peter Gowy.

winged printed shirt

1960s inspired simsuit

pollinatingtheair

volumesadjustable technicals

deconstructed

Forms

is a take on tailored cape with lapel collars. This look is a continuation of look 1, in a sense, as it continues the cycle of life. ‘Forms’ represents a budding flower.

The tailored cape is made from a navy plaid wool and silk suiting fabric, to emphasize on the tailoring aspect of the collection. The ‘buds’ are made from backed PVC fabric in reflective aqua tones.

Dropped sleeves is done deliberately to continue the distortion aspect of the collection. The ‘buds’ are placed strategically lower than where the arms rest, as if dragging the cape. Openings for the arms are done through the use of exposed zip, this zip feature is continued through to the pants design.

An oversized bow of the same PVC fabric further emphasize on the exaggeration of the overall look.

consumed dabbles with the idea of being overwhlemed by outside influences. It is represented through the exploding sleeves coat. This multi-sleeves coat represents the different influences one might have to overcome in life.

This look also references the cycle of life of a caterpillar and its surrounding. For it to undergo metamorphosis, it consums a large amount of leaves, consequently leaving permanent damages to leaves.

The shape of the coat represents the look of shrubs or flower petals, while the sleeves openings represent the bite marks left by caterpillars.

A deconstructed shirt is paired with the coat. The shirt is finished with doube top-stitching and press-studs. The sleeves are made deliberately long, with oversized cuffs attached to it. The disproportionate look continues the concept of the coillection.

Akio Nagasawa

swan song

Swan Song is inspired by the Australian black swans. In the collection, it represents the stage of life, where something is considered to be at their prime.

This look is a make-shift skirt/dress that can be worn as a skirt or a dress. It takes elements of a denim skirt, with its use of denim and top-stitching. The incorporation of organza bring lightness.

Exploding ruffles of denim and organza create volume while adding contrast to the design. Different treatments such as topstitching, hand-fraying and raw edges add textures to the look.

Swan Song is the penultimate look from the collection, the predominantly black silhoutte accented by white top-stitching foretold the final look of the collection, the encore.

Australian black swan

technicals

look 6 : decay

The encore, Decay is the reflection of the cycle of life; the end. It is represented through the decaying flower petals.

This sculptural look is made by shaping crinoline nets into circles and sewn together to create the silhoutte. 10 metres of silk organza in black are cut into strip, and gathered into ruffles. These ruffles are then hand-sewn onto the crinoline base.

Raw edges are done purposely to mimic the brittleness of decaying petals. Some of the organza ruffles are lit on fire to create a dramatic burnt edges effect, to further create the decaying look.

The transparency of the organza reveals the cream and white crinoline base. This reflects the network of veins on leaves under sunlight.

The exaggerated silhoutte gives the illusion of distorted anatomy.

Akio Nagasawa

exploded organza dress heels cover printed organza headpiece

silk organza black crinoline net technicals

printed ecoactive

Richard Quinn AW22, Valentino Couture 22, Schiaparelli Couture 22, Noir Kei Ninomiya AW22, Margiela Couture 22, CDG AW22

Sacai Fall 22, Craig Green AW22, Thom Browne AW22, Marc Jacobs AW22, Loewe Spring 23, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture 22, Valentino Couture 22

Noir Kei Ninomiya AW22, Oscar De La Renta Spring22, Simone Rocha AW22, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture 22, Valentino Couture 22, Schiaparelli Couture 22, Margiela Couture 22

Hed Mayner AW22, Marc Jacobs AW22, Simone Rocha AW22, Margiela Couture 22, Viktor & Rolf Fall Couture 22, Viktor & Rolf Spring Couture 22

Designer Bio - Baaqiy Ghazali (she/her)

Baaqiy Ghazali is an emerging fashion designer with a background in architecture and fine art, specialising in sculptural garments. Baaqiy approaches fashion as a tool to investigate the behavioural effect of fashion on human psyches; “why do we wear what we wear?” and “can avant-garde design be desirable?”.

An accomplished designer highly skilled in patternmaking and tailoring, Baaqiy was awarded two Designer of The Trimester awards and has received a standing ovation from the Head of School, Leanne Whitehouse, and from the Head of Design from both Melbourne and Sydney campuses.

Baaqiy was also given the opportunity to preview her graduate collection “Love Is Calling For Wonderland” on the Melbourne Fashion Week runway, as well as designing a custom garment for St.Ali, and becoming a member of the Melbourne Fashion Hub 2022/2023.

Pieces from LICFW was used in the campaign for Melissa Shoes Australia, shot by the talented Macami. Baaqiy is the winner of MYER Fashions On The Field - Emerging Designer Award 2022, and her winning design will be featured in VOGUE Australia in the February 2023 issue.

Baaqiy hopes to launch her career as avantgarde designer, offering wearable high-fashion pieces, designed and manufactured in Melbourne, Australia. In the future, Baaqiy hopes to launch the Australian version of Dover Street Market where she hopes to bring talented Australian designers in a market that celebrates local designers.

Reference

1. Rummel, R.J 1984, Under standing Conflict, Violence and War, (online), accessed 25 June 2022, < https://www. hawaii.edu/powerkills/CIP. CHAP4.HTM>

2. Towey, M, 2017, The Law of All Things: Form Ever Follows Function, accessed 26 June 2022, <http://www. thecaliforniaworkshop.com/ blog/2016/12/30/vitruvius-sulli van-and-neutra>

3. Rob, All You Need to Know about Dover Street Market, ac cessed 26 June 2022, < https:// www.grailify.com/en/all-youneed-to-know-about-doverstreet-market/>

Image reference

1. Getty images, The Artist Is Present, BBC, accessed 11 June 2022, < https:// www.bbc.com/culture/arti cle/20131029-live-art-pow er-of-performance>

2. Montag, S, Richard Quinn AW22, Go.Runway.Com, accessed 29 June 2022, < https://www.vogue.com/fash ion-shows/fall-2022-ready-towear/richard-quinn/slideshow/ collection#1>

3. Marc Jacobs AW22, ac cessed 29 June 2022, < https://www.vogue.com/fash ion-shows/fall-2022-ready-towear/marc-jacobs/slideshow/ collection#6>

4. Noir Kei Ninomiya, accessed 29 June 2022, < https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/ fall-2022-ready-to-wear/ noir-kei-ninomiya/slideshow/ collection#24>

5. Hed Mayner, accessed 29 June 2022, < https://wwd.com/ fashion-news/shows-reviews/ gallery/hed-mayner-mensfall-1235040819/>

7. Lucioni, A, SImone Ro cha AW22, accessed 29 June 2022,< https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/fall-2022-readyto-wear/simone-rocha/slide show/collection#>,

8. Thom Browne, AW22, accessed 29 June 2022, < https://www.vogue.com/fash ion-shows/fall-2022-ready-towear/thom-browne/slideshow/ collection#21>

9. Fior, F, Craig Green AW22, < https://www.vogue.com/fash ion-shows/fall-2022-menswear/ craig-green/slideshow/collec tion#25>

Photography credits (by appearance):

Page 0 @macami__ @_justann

Page 1 @alimba.png @sophiepatrece

Page 5 @alimba.png @sophiepatrece

Page 8 @alimba.png @sophiepatrece

@macami__ @_justann Page 9 @theconceptshot @jackbartholomeusz

Page 11 @baaqiy @jackbartholomeusz

Page 19 @alimba.png @sophiepatrece

Page 20 @macami__ @_justann @wilsonjeddadams @jackbartholomeusz

Page 21 @macami__ @_justann Page 23 @alimba.png @sophiepatrece

Page 25 @macami__ @_justann

6. Comme Des Garcons AW22, 29 June 2022, < https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/ fall-2022-ready-to-wear/com me-des-garcons/slideshow/ collection#4>

10. McQueen Bird Nest Head piece, accessed 20 August 2022, https://www.vam.ac.uk/ museumofsavagebeauty/mcq/ birds-nest-headdress/

11. Valentino Fall Couture 22, Salvator Dragone, https:// www.vogue.com/fash ion-shows/fall-2022-couture/ valentino/slideshow/collec tion#68

Page 12 @wilsonjeddadams @jackbartholomeusz @theconceptshot @jackbartholomeusz

Page 13 @wilsonjeddadams @jackbartholomeusz

Page 15-16 @wilsonjeddadams @jackbartholomeusz @baaqiy (edit)

Page 17 @macami__ @_justann

Page 26 @alimba.png @sophiepatrece

Page 28 @macami__ @_justann

@alimba.png @sophiepatrece

Page 30 @macami__ @_justann

@alimba.png @sophiepatrece

Page 31 @alimba.png @sophiepatrece

Page 34-35 @melbfashionweek @cityofmelbourne

BAAQIY B Y Q A I

0404354809 baaqiyghazali@gmail.com Melbourne, Victoria, Australia instagram.com/baaqiy Baaqiy Ghazali www.baaqiy.com