APRIL
2015
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure Volume 21 No. 4
Spring Ahead Time to Ride
THE GREAT RIVER SERIES THE MANY FACES OF THE HUDSON RIVER
GREETINGS FROM MYSTERIOUS FLORIDA SEYMOUR O’LIFE EXPLORES THE ODDITIES OF OUR 27TH STATE
W H A T ’ S
I N S I D E
MO NT HLY C O L U M NS
26
FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................6
Publishers
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil
ON THE MARK ....................................................7
Contributors
Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dave Wilson, Dr. Seymour O’Life
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ..........................8 BACKLASH..........................................................9
Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 317 Branchville NJ 07826
INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................11 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................14 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................21
30
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................34 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................36 MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE .......................45
FE AT U RE S CLAW OF THE DRAGON..................................23 GREAT RIVER SERIES - THE HUDSON...........26 TEN FOR THE ROAD ........................................30 GREETING FROM MYSTERIOUS FLA ............38
PR O DU C T R E V IE W S SHAD ZULUPACK DRY TRAVEL BAG .............35 OLYMPIA EXPEDITION JACKET/PANT...........44
38
phone
973.948.4176
fax
973.948.0823
editor@backroadsusa.com
online
www.backroadsusa.com
Advertising
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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2015. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
Page 4
FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN
PTSD • PoST TriP & Sojourn DiSorDer Some once called it shell shock but now, in a more enlightened time, we know that post traumatic stress disorder, or PTSD, affects a high percentage of people who have experienced extreme and shocking events in their lives. Although brought to headlines these days by returning service men and women, PTSD can be triggered by any number of things, including violent attacks, sexual assault or threats of imminent death. For all those who suffer, or have family members who do, from this I hope that they are able to get help and move forward with their lives. With that sincerely said – save the letter to the editor, please. My thread of thought this day is on a far lighter malaise that occurs to many riders after the build up, the participation and, finally, the return home of a big trip, tour or journey. For lack of a better term I like to call it Post Trip & Sojourn Disorder. So here is the deal - you are looking at the maps, globe or old copies of Backroads and you say, “Hey! I wanna go there…” Good for you. So, like any good journey or story, you’ve made that first move. You are going to go… wherever. So maps are consulted, days put aside, hotels, brochures, the internet – everything is consulted and put in place. And then – you head out. The tour is everything you wanted it to be and then some. Sure there was rain, and that unexpected breakdown. You did think you
lost your wallet, but found it in your tank bag. Each day was full of expectations and each day you met them and added other unforeseen memories. The night you pulled in late, wet and tired to the lodge - after that one particularly grueling day – is now a treasured memory and the bad day that tried to conspire against you now seems to make it all worthwhile. It really does seem that the obstacles put in our way on any voyage make the trip even more gratifying. A few weeks later you returned home. You parked the motorcycle, took some of the important gear inside deciding to get the rest later. A hot shower and a quick ride for pizza and you settled onto the couch; just relaxing with your mind still in overdrive thinking about the ride. You’ll get to that pile of mail tomorrow, you thought. The next day you slowly began to slide into your regular civilian life. Back to work, a few phone calls to catch up with friends and then back home the next evening. You take a walk to the garage and roll open the door and just look at your now silent riding companion. It’s still fairly dirty since the last few weeks on the road. It is quiet in the garage, except for that sound of somebody else’s motorcycle riding by your property. You hear them throw another gear and slowly that motorcycle fades down the road. The road you are not on, at least right now. It is then that it hits you. That empty gut feeling that something important, something profound is slightly missing. You, my friend, are now in the beginning stages of Post Trip & Sojourn Disorder. Continued on next page
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL
BruShing uP Putting together the April issue is always an uplifting time. Having suffered through what was, again, a long, cold and very white winter, we emerge to the melting of the ice caps, clearing of the salt from the roadways, Daylight Saving Time and the return to two wheels (in the northeast, anyway - you folks in warmer climates may skip to another page.) Being one of those riders who doesn’t venture out when temps are below 40 degrees, there was little chance of my bikes seeing me come the new year. That, and the perpetual skating rink that takes over my driveway after the first plowing. So, I felt very fortunate that I was able to get some riding time in during February in the beautiful country of Ecuador. We joined in with Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental on their 10-day Inca Roads tour with some other folks from the US and Canada. Ten beautiful days enjoying the warmth of the equator. Well, sort of. While we did have excellent weather, with all but one day featuring blue skies, the region in which we rode was mostly elevated. Up to 14,500 feet of elevation, to be specific. So while the sun was shining down on us, there was still a bit of chill in the air. On the flip side, when we dropped down into the Amazon basin, we opened the vents and filled the CamelPaks with ice as the thermometer tipped the scales at 100 degrees. Knowing what was transpiring at home, I took every minute of the highs and lows with a big smile on my face. Reading through the itinerary and description, I was happy to see that this particular tour was more paved than un, as being off my GS for a couple of months allowed the cobwebs to set in. Taking possession of Freedom Bike’s G650GS, complete with saddle and tank Free Wheelin’ Sure you love your life, your job and friends and family. But, you liked where you were on the road as well. The mind set, the flavors, the smells, the feel, the grimaces and the smiles. All those ingredients that go into the recipe of life on two wheels. I speak passionately about this for I too suffer from this and am right now. I love what we have here. I adore my life. Revel in where I live. Enjoy everything about the here and the now. But, and Shira knows this better than anyone else, I would rather be on the road. Sometimes my articles will sit around for months before seeing the light of day in these pages. I have no idea when this will be printed but, right now, we have been back just a week from Ecuador in South America. The last gasp (I hope) of winter is crushing North America from Texas and the Gulf to Nova Scotia. Backroads Central is white and silent and I am watching an early spring cardinal and squirrel forage for seeds I put out earlier this day. Baseball’s spring training will happen today - 1,000 miles to the south so there is perpetual hope. I am not sure there is any sure cure for Post Trip & Sojourn Disorder. But I am fairly certain that the effects can be minimized by planning yet another trip. Maybe that is what I, we, us need to do – let’s get the maps back out. Let’s go for a road trip.
Page 5 bags, I immediately felt comfortable and at home. Heading out of Quito, the capital of Ecuador, was much easier than leaving Manhattan, and we were soon scooting along the very well maintained roadways. All this came to an end, as Court and Sylvain, our fearless leaders, mentioned that we would be taking a ‘shortcut’ which consisted of miles of rocky dirt and cobblestones. I saw this as a ‘test’ to see if we could weather what may or may not face us further on in the trip. Digging deep in my riding soul, I took a stand on the pegs, gazed way down the ‘road’ and soldiered on. It certainly didn’t hurt that this GS was equipped with some knobby tires. When the pavement reappeared, I still had that big smile on my face. Over the next 10 days, we’d hit more stretched of the same, and I felt I got better with each pass. Sure, I still have to work on those ‘parking lot’ maneuvers, but the cobwebs of Winter had receded for the time being. I can’t think of a better way to brush up on your skills than a trip to warmer climes when riding at home is not possible. That said, I’ll be getting in touch with the folks at Ride Like a Pro to help me with those other issues. Just a note about Ecuador: it is a very friendly and beautiful country. For those living on the East coast of the US, it’s an easy flight, the time is the same, as is the currency, and Freedom Bike Rental has a brand new facility to set you up on a guided or self-guided. I’d highly recommend putting this on your destination bucket list, especially during the winter. Check out their website @ FreedomBikeRental.com
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
Page 6
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD
The Way ouT: ThWarTeD From almost the day I first started riding on the street, there is a lesson I learned that has stayed with me no matter what type of vehicle I’m conveying. It recently became front and center due to this whole “Winter 2015-Welcome to Winterfell” thing we’ve been experiencing up here, as our road landscape has been altered a bit by nature’s frosty wrath. We’ve lived up here since 1994 (wow, that’s so last century) and I don’t recall a winter quite like this before. The cold temperatures and white precipitation just hasn’t stopped, and we haven’t had the odd bit of warmer weather to melt some of the skiscape like we usually do. A conundrum has arisen, and not just the fact that the roads have often been a mess to negotiate for four wheels, let alone two. With more and more accumulating snowstorms, the plows have cleared the road but also created some heavily soiled concrete walls on either side of the roads, effectively eliminating the (arguably tiny) runoff/breakdown areas on the sides. The feeling that something dear has been lost is ever-present when motoring down the increasingly narrow roads that have been such good friends. You see, the critical lesson I mentioned earlier has become an integral part of the freedom of riding. It’s the ability to use the bike’s narrowness and flickability to find the Way Out when you need to escape a perilous circumstance. As you well know, motorcycles are not good at running into stuff. The lack of a cage of steel and its associated airbags and other protection devices make not hitting or being hit by something substantial quite important when you’re enjoying the road. When you make the road narrower you limit possible escape routes, and I hate that. You protect your person by not getting
in the wreck in the first place, but you typically need somewhere to flee to avoid the impact. And the ugliness is not limited to access. These white pillars of ice have become so high that they cause even more trouble, as the already abrupt interface of driveways and the roads is obscured so that drivers can’t see the road they’re entering until they’re practically in your helmet. And then there’s the snow that invites itself back onto the roadway after it’s been sitting like a mountain range for weeks but finally crumbles a bit and does a rock slide. Sheesh. But of all these irritants the one that gets me most is the sealing off of escape routes, for to me this is the whole crux of safe riding on the street. Of all the skills you need to possess to deal with roads that are full of terrors, I honestly believe that finding a route to escape a hazard (and then being able to put the bike there at a moment’s notice) is the most important. Whenever anybody’s starting to ride, they need to learn how their narrow, agile machine can use all kinds of tricks to avoid trouble. Cars are the enemy, yes. But they can also be your allies, for selected use as these big tanks can help protect you from other, more evil cars. Let that Audi turning left in your lane in front of you block traffic like the ultimate lineman as you turn right. A long line of cars at a light is there solely to protect you, for you can split lanes and let that idiot who’s texting and about to rear end you plow into something larger instead. As the road time and experience for the rider grows, so does the arsenal of uses these machines can be recruited for. That said, my favorite weapon is still vacant real estate and the ability to put your motorcycle out of harm’s way no matter what happens around you. There’s a huge feeling of confidence to be tapped by knowing you can find a light at the end of the tunnel when all goes dark. This even shows up in the serious self-examination that takes place when one of our ranks gets involved in an accident, for we study the minute details of the incident and ask ourContinued on page 13
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
Page 7
ON THE MARK MARK BYERS
The Force She left. I watched as she rolled out of sight. I watched with a mixture of joy and nostalgia, but no regret. I knew I hadn’t been paying enough attention to her lately, and it pained me. It was time for her to go with someone who would appreciate her – someone who would give her his undivided attention. And that is how, on an unseasonably warm November day, I watched my friend Wayne ride off on my ’03 BMW R1150RS. I remember the day I got her: it was early April and the previous weekend I’d been caught in a snowstorm at a bicycle race in Virginia on my R850. A friend with a trailer hauled the roadster as far as Morton’s. The next Thursday, I bought a sweet-looking, two-toneblue R1150 Rennsport. My buddy Steve picked up his GS the same night and we rode home in the dark. The Force is strong in that bike – she’s why I write for Backroads. BMW was offering $750 off an Edelweiss tour if you bought a bike, so Betsy and I used the money to book the Montana Tour. When we arrived at the airport in Missoula, there was this large man with a shaved head handing out magazines and being gregarious. The man was with a pretty, red-haired lady. A bunch of gin and tonics later, I was invited to write an article. Betsy and I took our first anniversary trip on her right after a hurricane, a tour of Maryland’s Eastern Shore. We ignored warnings from the tourist people about places under water and rode that RS all over a very pretty lower shore that, while damp, was very much open. That trip was the source of my first Backroads feature article. I did my first track day with her, a spirited romp around Summit Point Raceway that forever addicted me to track sessions. Her linked ABS, with the whiny servo, had eye-watering power and kept me from grief multiple times.
The RS was also my bicycle race officiating partner and many of her miles were to, from, and during races all over the East Coast. The Tour de Toona was a favorite and so was the pro race in Philly, climbing the Manayunk Wall. She carried me in Philly in 2010 when the women’s field caught the men for the first time in history. She limped home one year from Altoona with a leaky exhaust valve, running well enough on 575 cc’s to get me here. We did a grueling two weeks of the US National Championships in Seven Springs, PA. Betsy and I did Easter on the Blue Ridge on her, riding with the late Steve Coburn of Oilheads Club renown. I remember descending off the Parkway from Meadows of Dan one Easter Sunday morning in fog so thick and cold that I was crawling, using my flashers in hopes we wouldn’t be hit. It rained all day and a sympathetic clerk at the Wawa in Dahlgren suggested we use the pretzel display to warm our gloves. We went through the Adirondacks on the way to Vermont and New Hampshire. We rode the “Kanc” and we visited Whitehorse Press and braved Hurricane Mountain Road on her. Just when I’d given up hope because of the rain in North Conway, the skies cleared and we climbed Mount Washington together on a one-in-a-million afternoon when the sun was shining and the wind wasn’t blowing. I told you, The Force is strong in her. Of late, we’d become distant with the arrival of new machines, so when my friend and fellow moto official lost his GS, he asked for a test ride. It had been quite a while since she’d been out, but a new battery brought her to life and she purred with the attention. On a chilly November day, she took Wayne to lunch and then for a jaunt with me through the Amish country she knew so well. She never put a foot wrong and when we returned, Wayne looked at me and said just one word: “Sold!” Before the deal was done, I washed her one last time, going over every little beauty mark and marveling at how great she looked for an 11-year-old bike with nearly 70K miles. I stashed all her excess jewelry and goodies in her bags and today, Wayne came to get her. I hope he takes good care of her. I know she’ll take good care of him. The Force is strong in that one.
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APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
Page 8
THOUG HTS FRO M THE ROAD VelociTy aWarDS anD oTher ciTaTionS The first ‘Velocity Award’ I earned was on Long Island, New York, riding down an empty stretch of highway toward the beach. It was warm, dark and deserted, and the sense of freedom combined with my new motorcycle endorsement encouraged me to take my Honda to speeds I had never experienced before. I was on the cool down lap when flashing lights alerted me that I was not totally alone. The interaction with the officer wasn’t quite as exhilarating as the ride down the lonely road, but just as memorable. He was very business-like, not interested in chatting, wrote me up and left. New York has pretty expensive speeding tickets, and one of my discoveries after this incident was that insurance companies use citations as major money makers by jacking up premiums for years afterwards. But most of my pullovers have had much more narrative attached to them than that first unremarkable one. Never having had a radar detector until graduating to the ranks of liter bikes, I developed a spider sense around where, when and how to bend – okay, break – the speed limit. A pretty good sense, but not infallible. Still, those failures have left me with some interesting stories. On my first cross-country trip, I was out in the middle of nowhere, Montana, leaving a small town and accelerating to cruising speed. I crested a hill and found myself blasting past a State Trooper. I guess it was a little fast even for Montana, because he turned around and pulled me over. I was expecting a lecture, advice, or driving lesson, but what I got was, “You were speeding, that will be $30.” And that was it. I gave him the cash, he bid me good day and was off. To say I was satisfied with the experience was an understatement. If I have to get pulled over, I’ll choose Montana any time! On a later cross country adventure, I was in the wilds of Wisconsin, on my way back to New York from Utah, when I was snagged by a local patrol. I stopped in a parking lot and was getting out my paperwork when he marveled
Dave Wilson over my New York plates. “What are you doing way out here?” he asked, laughing. He got on the radio to tell a buddy he had pulled over a New Yorker. We chatted for a few minutes, he told me of a great local place for breakfast, then he let me go. Sometimes you come across fellow adventurers, or vicarious travelers, who are more interested in your current adventure than your minor traffic infractions. Back in New York, I commuted into Manhattan every day, routinely lane splitting for much of the route. It was quite dangerous (what did I know, I was so young!), but made me an excellent rider. On one homebound trip, I was snagged at the intersection of two highways by a patrolman who was literally standing in the median waving people over. He gave me the rundown on how dangerous my behavior was, then taught me a lesson by making me sit in the median with him: “Now you’ve lost all the time you were saving by lane splitting!” I was relatively unfazed, and sat there watching traffic for a few minutes. Then another policeman stopped, talked with the guy who had pulled me over, then came over and talked motorcycles with me for 15 minutes. It was an interesting way to make a motorcycle connection, not one I ever would have expected, and made my impromptu imprisonment go by much faster. Sometimes it’s just so cool to be a biker, and people know it, even if they’re pissed off at you. Big ciTy, crazy ciTy These days the radar detector keeps the speeding tickets away, and my spider senses have grown pretty rusty. The challenges of Big City driving have shifted to Crazy City riding, In New Mexico it’s impossible to anticipate the wacked-out antics of other drivers. To that end, the more aggressive habits of my New York City commute have stuck with me. I am very protective about controlling my lane on the highway, try to stay just a little faster than everybody else (because it’s virtually impossible to control what’s going on Continued on page 13
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
Page 9
BACKLASH
Letters to the Editor
Mysterious America Puzzler Hey O’Life, Re “factoid”- My wife Jean spotted this- the font is different than the other town names. Slightly larger than other small towns. Compare it to Beaver Kill to the right. Could be angle of photo though, I guess. My guess would have been that the handwritten sign was on a telephone pole, which could have been in front of Green’s house. I hope you’ll supply the right answer to those of us who gave it a shot. Looking forward to hooking up with the gang again. John Petrocelli Hi Ya, I’m not in this for the gift grab. Just to confirm that you’re talking about the towns under the Pepacton that all went “Atlantis”. If it ain’t that, well I don’t have a clue. Wouldn’t be the first time for that. If it is the towns under water, to the right (west) of Walton you can see “rift”? Did you realize that is part of the name of Rock Rift? Rock Rift is one of the little towns under the Cannonsville Res. You hit the quint-fecta on the under the dam towns, dude. Sindee Lou Seymour, Another paper town, as in Mysterious America, exists between Pottersville & Keating, PA, about 35 miles slightly northwest of State College. Can’t recall the name but it is only marked by a cemetery. Old & recent tombstones, preserved by someone. A great forest road that challenged expert Iron Butt riders from a winning position in an annual Mason/Dixon rally. A group of about 14 returned a year later to find it. I was one of them on my 650 scooter. Thoroughly enjoyed the ride as I’m sure you will if you decide to look it up on one of your exploratory excursions. Leon Hoffacker
And, the winner is! Dear O’Life, I believe the odd factoid you are referring to is the other three towns that are missing from current maps. The three towns are Pepacton, Shavertown and Union Grove which are now all below the surface of the Pepacton reservoir. As you have probably discovered Route 30 that runs along the southern edge of the reservoir is an excellent road for riding, kind of a “Tail of Pepacton.” One of my Wrinkled Wrider buddies (Dave Trabert) and I rode up to that area last year just to ride this piece of road. I found this article on the missing town particularly interesting because my dad always used Esso maps because he thought they were the best. He claimed that Esso made deliberate errors on their maps so they would know if they were being copied just as your article pointed out. Since we never found a mistake I always wondered if the maps really did have a mistake. Mystery solved! Thanks for your great magazine. John Eckel • Pennington, NJ Congrats John –You’ve just won a brand new Chrysler Cordoba and you can pick it up at Morty’s office.
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APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
Page 10
Shira’s Challenge Let me just start by saying IF you were here in Northern California we could get a ton of stuff done in the hot tub with a couple of bottles of wine. Brian, your editorial in “Free Wheelin” once again hit the mark right between my eyes. Notice RKA has not been back at the IMS for a few years now. It is just what you said and more. Weather (Read black ice and crazy drivers), setup tear down and don’t get me started about unions! Same thing week after week for the whole tour which lasts about 2 months, starts out kinda nice, LA, SF, Seattle but then gets ugly. 25 years ago when we started we used to think booth cost was the issue. Heck, that’s only a small percentage, airplanes, motels, Event hotels, fuel, food, vehicle maintenance, where to unload, where to park (example: DC - Guess how much it cost to park the 40 foot rig in the event hotel lot for 5 days?!) It goes on and on. Please do not take this wrong we have seen the USA over the last 30 years; but the attendance has gone down, the old folks have gotten grumpier and we have not found the young ones there. So why should we drive 3,000 miles through the snow, work 2 days setting up the booth, have everything on sale with a nice discount, and the very first person that walks up says “Got a better price on that? Ahhhhhhh! So we stopped coming. You are so right about the dates and how Advanstar runs things. I am sure they mean well but. NOW about that Shira ….. So who was this mystery person doing the “Road Throw down”? Ok I’ll narrow it down … so maybe we can get you two back out here. Our FAV is Hwy 36 between Fortuna and Red Bluff. Kathy and I started the “Hwy 36 ride” maybe 20 years ago. Since we have handed it off to the “Core” group and they have continued to make it an annual ride if only in name as they now go all over the place. Last year they went to Weaverville and up the Trinity Alps Hwy 3. Our second most FAV is Stewarts Point Road from RKA to Lake Sonoma to Stewarts Point on Hwy One, then back on River Road from Jenner. You guys are the best! Richard Battles
Shira, We thought we’d put together five fabulous roads that need not be on a must do ‘someday’ list but rather Laura and my ‘can do’ list because these roads our right here in Backroads backyard: all of them in Putnam and Duchess county in the great state of New York SR. 301 from Carmel to Cold Spring SR. 199 from SR 22 in Millerton to Barrytown CR 86 Bengall Amenia Rd (also known as James Cagney Way) from SR 44 to Bengall CR 83 Smithfield Valley Rd from SR 44 to SR 82 CR 21 Pleasant Ridge Rd from SR 22 to SR 82 Helene & Laura My contribution for Throw Down Roads: Locally: Route 301 from Carmel to Cold Spring, Delaware Water Gap to Port Jervis on the East bank of the River, Route 30 from PA to Canada, Route 100 from MA to Canada, Route 28 from I-87 to I-90 Nationally: Blue Ridge Parkway, Beartooth Highway, Route 12 between Torrey and Bryce Canyon, PCH, Independence Pass Gregory Bagen
Something to say? Love to hear it. Letters may be edited, never censored, to fit.
Mail: BACKROADS • PO Box 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Fax: (973) 948-0823 • Email: editor@backroadsusa.com
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
IN DU STRY INFOBITES We would like to offer our condolences to our friends at Morton’s BMW. Kristine Massey Clifford, daughter of Morton’s BMW owner Jeff Massey and his wife Hannah, passed away suddenly on Thursday, February 12. Kristine was the title clerk and human resources staffer at Morton’s BMW. Our thoughts are with them and the Massey family at this time.
NOT YOUR AVERAGE MOTORCYCLE TOUR MotoVermont is offering 3 training tours focused on teaching the intricacies of riding larger bikes off-road. 2015 touring dates are June 11-14, July 23-26 and Sept. 12-15. The cost of the tour is $1,499 which includes meals and lodging. The 3-day Training Tour offers closed course teaching sessions along with 3 unique, guided dual-sport routes through the lush forests of Northern Vermont. This is not your average motorcycle tour or training school. These are real trails, some dating back to the 1700’s, no less! Along each route you will learn how to navigate different obstacles that you commonly find on the trail; small logs, rocks, water crossings. Along with the MotoVermont team will be Motocross rider and instructor Alex Buskey. Alex will teach proper bike set-up, positioning and technique. The Jay Peak Mountain Resort will provide Lodging and meals. Cost of the Tour includes 3 day dual-sport tour, On-trail guidance and support, 3 night deluxe accommodations, fresh daily meals and access to amenities at Jay Peak Resort. Honda CRF250S & Kawasaki KLR 650 Dual-sport motorcycles will be available for rent if needed for a cost of $139/day. Contact Eric at MotoVermont: 802-860-6686 or motovermont.com
COME AND SEE THE NEW 2015 BMWs SATURDAY, MAY 16 • 9a-5p Question/Answer Session with BMW Factory Rep • Snack provided
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News from the Inside AMERICADE’S EARLY SIGNUP IS OPEN Americade’s offers more motorcycling events and activities than at any other event in the U.S., and they are all available online now, at a discount, before May 1. Thousands of riders book their events prior to Americade Week to ensure they get their first choices. And, some events are only available online. In addition, Americade Director Christian Dutcher notes, “Every year, we work to improve Americade, and this year Americade is nearly all new. New rides, new concert series, new TourExpo,more demos than at any other event in the U.S., and lots of fresh pavement. Attendees are going to be impressed by how much we’re offering this year.” A full list of activities and demo providers can be seen at www.americade.com. Registration is available online through May 1, and via post entry at the Lake George’s Holiday Inn.
NEW ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE TRAVEL CENTER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WORLD Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental and Motorcycle Tours announced today that they haveopened a new “Adventure Motorcycle Travel Center” in the middle of planet Earth – near the Equator in Quito, Ecuador. The travel station will provide maintenance and travel information services for international motorcycle adventurers and will house the new headquarters for the company’s motorcycle rental and tour operations. The new center is expected to become a popular stop near the midpoint of the Pan-American Highway, which stretches between Prudhoe Bay, Alaska and Ushuaia, Argentina. The Travel Center will offer international motorcycle travelers a place to relax, gather and share information, and have access to high quality, trustworthy repair and maintenance services. Located in the Mariscal Section of Quito - near many hostels, hotels, restaurants and bars – the new Travel Center provides a comprehensive collection of maps of Ecuador and South America, a fully stocked bar, plus a shower and hot tub.
Page 12 Motorcyclists who are travelling through Ecuador can receive mail and packages and even store their bikes and belongings for a modest fee. International motorcycle travelers will have access to discounted tires, brake pads and other maintenance parts for their bikes. The Adventure Motorcycle Travel Center will function as the new headquarters for Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental & Tours’operations as well, providing rental and tour to customers who simply fly into Ecuador to experience a country that is becoming known as “Motorcycling’s Secret Paradise.” The company is the first motorcycle tour operation in the country and has been operating since 2010. “We’re thrilled to be able to expand our business and operations to help Ecuador become a major travel destination for those who enjoy exploring beautiful natural areas on two wheels” stated Court Rand, co-owner of the Quito-based motorcycle tour operator. “We’ve benefited greatly from the information gathered from experienced international motorcycle travelers over the 5 years of operation and we are happy to be able to give back to the community” The Adventure Motorcycle Travel Center is located at calle Juan de Velasco N26-132 between calle Santa Maria and Orellana Avenue in Quito, Ecaudor. GPS coordinates are: S 00°11’51.8” | W 078°29’29.6”
MOTO-AMERICA - THE RETURN OF ROAD RACING TO AMERICA MotoAmerica AMA/FIM North American Road Racing Series will officially begin at the Circuit of the Americas in Texas. The stars of the series will take to the COTA track for the first time on Thursday, April 9 as the championship season kicks off with the MotoAmerica classes serving as the support races for the Red Bull Grand Prix of the Americas in Austin. MotoAmerica will run three of its classes at the Grand Prix - Supersport and the combined Superbike/Superstock 1000 - with the Superbike/Superstock 1000 class racing twice over the course of the weekend. One of the many racers chomping at the bit to get started is Red Bull Roadrace Factory’s Jake Gagne. The Californian will make his Superstock 1000 debut at COTA. “It’s the first race and it’s what we’ve all been waiting for,” said Gagne.
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS “It’s a great track and hopefully we get a great turnout. This will be our first time on the Superstock bike and racing against the Superbikes. I’m excited to get out there and turn some laps at COTA and get racing with the guys. It’s been too long.” Tickets can be purchased for all the action at the Circuit of the Americas by clicking on the following link: circuitoftheamericas.com/motogp/tickets
AMA VINTAGE GRAND TOUR REWARDS ROAD-RIDER SPECTATORS AT AMA VINTAGE RACES The American Motorcyclist Association is announcing the 2015 AMA Vintage Grand Tour, which will reward participating road riders for attending AMA-sanctioned vintage competition events. “No two motorcyclists are alike, except for the fact that we respect each others’ rides,” said AMA Road Riding Manager Chris Harrison. “The AMA Vintage Grand Tour is our way to encourage road riders to rack up more miles, as well as step back in time by checking out one of motorcycling’s coolest disciplines — vintage racing.” Competition events on the AMA Vintage Grand Tour calendar include motocross, hare scrambles, dirt track and road racing in 12 states. Additional events may be added. “AMA-sanctioned vintage racing is expanding into new geographical areas, such as Arizona Cycle Park, outside of Phoenix, Ariz., and the famous Monster Mountain facility, in Tallassee, Ala.,” said AMA Assistant Motocross Manager Alex Hunter. “AMA promoters are increasingly embracing vintage racing, where racers young and old compete on bikes from decades past to relive old memories and make new ones. The competition may be more laid
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015 back, but it’s no less exciting, particularly when the atmosphere echoes the 1990s, ‘80s, ‘70s and beyond.” The American Motorcyclist Association is announcing the 2015 AMA Vintage Grand Tour, which will reward participating road riders for attending AMA-sanctioned vintage competition events. “No two motorcyclists are alike, except for the fact that we respect each others’ rides,” said AMA Road Riding Manager Chris Harrison. “The AMA Vintage Grand Tour is our way to encourage road riders to rack up more miles, as well as step back in time by checking out one of motorcycling’s coolest disciplines — vintage racing.” Competition events on the AMA Vintage Grand Tour calendar include motocross, hare scrambles, dirt track and road racing in 12 states. Additional events may be added. The 13-round series travels through Illinois, North Carolina, New York, Ohio and Indiana before returning to New York for the Sept. 26 & 27th for the finale in Cuddebackville. Log onto www.americanmotorcyclist.com/AMAVintageGrandTour for the complete schedule.
HARLEY-DAVIDSON ROLLS OUT INTEGRATED CAMPAIGN CELEBRATING RIDERS’ INDIVIDUALITY Harley-Davidson Motor Company has debuted “Roll Your Own,” an integrated marketing campaign that evolves the company’s efforts to break the stereotype of who rides Harley-Davidson motorcycles and how they ride them. PoSTcarDS From The heDge
Continued from page 6
selves what action we might have taken; what could have been done to avoid the crash. Obviously there are circumstances where absolutely nothing could have stopped the mishap, but we always like to think there was something that could have been done to avoid the situation. Could a quick dart over to the breakdown region have saved my bacon? I’ve done this more times than I can count, including diverting to the opposite side of the road when there was no other way of dealing with the insane vehicle pulling out of a hidden driveway without looking. It’s one of my 20 favorite options, especially on country roads but it really does work anywhere there some extra pavement available. I say anywhere, but this is unless you live in a place where winter has been an absolute menace and releasing unreasonably amounts of snow at regular intervals. With no warmer stints to melt it off, we get icy white concrete. Then you might as well be riding in a tunnel, with nonexistent shoulders. What the heck are you supposed to do now? Go all Wall of Death on the stuff, and do some serious looping when some dink (dressed as the Easter Bunny) in a truck runs you into the drifts while texting? I hate it when my escape route has an iceberg in it. Or, maybe, I’m just really tired of winter. Or both. To top it off, I was supposed to be down in Daytona for Bike Week and the Daytona 200, but the AMA and the track could not come to an agreement with their new MotoAmerica racing series so there is no AMA Pro racing series in the Florida sunshine to start the season. The snow refuses to finally leave my world (even though I’d swear there should be some green things by now) and my mood is riddled with potholes, like the roads. Summer seems so far away. I even miss mowing the lawn. That’s scary.
Page 13 Elevating the attitude and style of motorcycle riders across the United States, the new campaign features real Harley-Davidson riders and introduces the call to action of #RollYourOwn. “The new work shows there is no one way to ride a Harley,” said Dino Bernacchi, U.S. Marketing Director at Harley-Davidson. “The new creative is about each rider defining their independence and attitude, whether kicking up dirt on the track or sliding through the curves on ice.” The new campaign runs with a series of 60 second and 30 second broadcast ads, print ads, online advertising and social content. The campaign will air during the NCAA Men’s Basketball Tournament. ThoughTS From The roaD Continued from page 8 behind you) and don’t hesitate to lay on the horn when necessary. Lately, though, I’m finding that the horn option doesn’t work the way it used to. Drivers tend to be oblivious or purposefully ignoring, and are just as likely to get angry that you’re interrupting their phone conversation. I certainly don’t miss getting pulled over, for the off chance I’ll have some quality time with law enforcement. More than that, I miss the days on the open road, and the opportunity to meet interesting people who might want to talk about the two wheeled lifestyle. I’m remembering the old truck stops and the characters you would find visiting them. The interesting and interested people. I guess it’s time to plan a trip…
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MY STERIO U S A MER IC A The horn anTenna • holmDel roaD, holmDel nj Our Whole Universe Was In A Hot Dense State, Then nearly fourteen billion years ago expansion started. Wait... The Earth began to cool, The autotrophs began to drool, Neanderthals developed tools, We built a wall (we built the pyramids), Math, science, history, unraveling the mysteries, That all started with the big bang! Bare Naked Ladies
In the beginning there was…..nothing. But, right after the Second World War the universe (New Jersey) began to really expand in population and the Garden State Parkway, 172 miles long making it the longest in the Garden State, was born. It is officially Route 444 – but, no one remembers that. A lot has happened and can be found along the route that this road takes –
the Shark Attacks of 1916, the dynamic changes in NJ’s topography as you transverse the Parkway and, just off the GSP, at Holmdel - near the PNC Arts Center – you will find something that really changed things. In fact this one artifact on display changed the entire way humans look at our planet, the galaxy and the entire universe. It is called the Horn Antenna. During the 1950s many scientists were split by two completely differing theories on how our universe was created. Some believed in the Steady State Theory, that the universe was stagnant and would remain forever unchanged. In these theorists’ minds, the universe had always existed in its current state. It would never and could never be altered. On the other side you had many scientists and theorists who believed that the universe began with a huge (we mean really huge) explosion billions of years ago. The Big Bang. This theory suggested that the universe began with a cataclysmic explosion billions of years ago. In this scenario, the universe existed in an infinitely dense and infinitely hot state before the Big Bang caused its rapid expansion. In 1929 Edwin Hubble (the famed satellite telescope is named after him)
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BACKROADS • APRIL 2015 observed that galaxies were moving away from each other and receding. This supported the notion of an expanding universe, but there was no real evidence that the Big Bang actually occurred until Arno Penzias and Robert Wilson pointed the Holmdel Horn Antenna to the sky. Penzias and Wilson, a pair of radio astronomers working at Bell Telephone Laboratories, first gained access to the instrument after advances in satellite technology made in 1962. The antenna was originally built in 1959 to support NASA’s Project Echo, which bounced radio waves off metallic balloon satellites in order to transmit signals from one part of the globe to another. A few years later, the antenna’s sensitivity was increased in order to detect faint signals from Telstar, the first communications satellite capable of collecting, transmitting, and relaying signals rather than simply reflecting them. With its high sensitivity and horn shape, which allowed for precise pointing, the antenna was ideal for conducting radio astronomy observations. This fact was immediately recognized by Penzias and Wilson, who began using the telescope to study emissions from the Milky Way. The astronomers soon became bogged down, however, by a mysterious background noise that was present wherever the instrument was pointed. No, it was not New York City. Penzias and Wilson made every attempt to explain the troublesome ‘static.’ They pointed the antenna towards New York City (see?) to check if humans were responsible. They even spent hours removing bird excrement (or as Penzias called it, “white dielectric material”) from the horn where pigeons were roosting. After all of their tests, the two men concluded that the noise was not coming from the Earth, the Sun, or the Milky Way. The only remaining explanation was that the source was outside of our own galaxy. At the same time, a team of Princeton astrophysicists led by Robert Dicke was preparing a paper on the possibility of detecting leftover microwave ra-
Page 15 diation from the Big Bang. Upon hearing about the Princeton researcher’s work, Penzias and Wilson began to realize the significance of their mysterious background noise. The researchers contacted Dicke, who sent them a copy of the unpublished paper and was then invited to Holmdel to listen to the noise. During Dicke’s visit, the scientists agreed that they had stumbled upon the cosmic microwave background radiation, the theorized remnants of the Big Bang. Dicke informed his team, “We’ve been scooped,” and in an act of scientific solidarity (almost unheard of) the two groups decided to publish their results jointly. The scientific community immediately recognized the importance of such a discovery and in 1978 Penzias and Wilson were awarded the Nobel Prize in physics. Harvard physicist and Nobel Laureate, Edward Purcell, even said of the finding, “It just may be the most important thing anybody has ever seen.” Aside from the implications for science and humankind in general, the discovery was also particularly important for cosmology: it represented a shift in the field from mostly theoretical work to the practice of direct observation. Today, the Horn Antenna is a National Historic Landmark. Located just a few miles from Bell Laboratories and the Parkway, the 20-foot aluminum antenna is no longer in use and is open to the public. Though the entire apparatus weighs 18 tons, a force of only 100 pounds is sufficient to rotate the antenna along the horizontal axis. To ensure the instrument’s safety, it was designed to withstand 100 mph winds and to rotate freely when not in use, allowing it to settle in a position of minimum wind resistance. The Horn Antenna changed the way we look at the universe and gave us a #1 rated comedy. O’Life out!
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports Presents
G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN riVerTon hoTel & reSTauranT 7758 MARTINS CREEK BELVIDERE HIGHWAY, BANGOR, PA 18013 610-498-4241 • WWW.RIVERTONHOTEL.COM They call the crossing over this part of the Delaware River the “Free Bridge,” and for a thousand years or so the Lenape tribes ruled this part of the river for miles both upstream and down. In the early 1700s, when Europeans first ambled into the region the Young family, from Holland, built a few cottages and then a small inn, where the Riverton Hotel stands today. Owned and operated by the Markopoulos family for the last three and a half decades the Riverton has been opening its doors for travelers and riders since. It is also a big favorite with the locals, always the true sign of a successful eatery. We made it a point late last season to meet up with some Philly-based friends, as this spot on the river was more or less halfway for us all. Even though it was a crisp late fall morning, there were still a good amount of motorcycles pulling into the Riverton’s large lot; as we were not the only ones out for a jaunt and dropping in that Sunday. As always John was happy to see riders arriving and he happily brought us to a window table with a view of the bridge and told us the specials of the day while pouring some seriously good coffee into our mugs. John and his family have been a part of Backroads for years now and we are al-
tasty places to take your bike
lowed a bit of nepotism now and again, especially when the food is that good. Executive Chef, George Markopoulos (John and Christina’s son), was trained at the Culinary Institute of America. It shows. With our group all at the table some appetizers were ordered and brought out. The liver pate’ was about as good as we have ever had. The Buffalo wings were spot on and got thumbs up from our tough Philly judge and, you just knew that the pierogies were homemade and fresh. Served with their own sanjiki sauce they were almost a meal by themselves. A chicken quesadilla was brought out and we held off on ordering more as we wanted to save a little room for a main course. But, still you had a choice of a number of other delectable items such as clams Rockefeller, crabmeat stuffed mushrooms and a few great soups including the Riverton’s super French onion. For you salad folk they offer a superb Caesar, Greek, Italian and their own House version – all looked delicious.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
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We went for the Greek. When it was time for ordering the meal I stuck with the name Markopoulos and ordered the beef gyro. I am a gyro aficionado and the Riverton has this down pat! It still being late morning a few omelets were ordered as well; Shira claiming one of the best she has had in a long time. The pulled pork barbeque sandwich was a winner as well was the Riverton
hamburger and their bacon cheddar. They also offered a few lunch platters such as sautéed’ chicken with either vodka or Alfredo sauce, a broiled lump crab cake or shrimp stuffed with the same crabmeat. Laying along the Delaware, the Riverton is almost seaside. Remarkably our friend Brad still had room for a large ice creamy dessert that he kindly shared with the rest of us. A perfect way to end this Autumn meal. As I said earlier, another riding group rode in on the chilly Sunday and they told us that the Riverton is a staple for them when looking for great food after a serious morning ride. When you combine the riverside location, the region’s history, the family-style ambiance and the wonderful food it is clear the Riverton has much to offer. And, we will make it even better with a ride equal to the destination with this month’s Great All American Diner Run’s Rip & Ride. Enjoy!
Rip & Ride® Riverton Hotel & Restaurant 7758 Martins Creek Belvidere Highway, Bangor, PA 18013
610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com
North on Rte. 23 north in NJ Left on Rte. 94 Right on CR 661 Beaver Run Road Right on Ice Plant Cross Rte.15 to Mud Cut Rd. Right on Rte. 94 south Right on Sid Taylor Rd. Right at rte. 206 Left at CR 626 – Double Bridges Left at T Left at CR 521 Left at Frank Chandler Rd. Right at CR 622 Left at CR 619 East Shore Rd. Right at CR 610 Left at CR 521 south Left at CR 659 Spring Valley Rd. Right at Rte. 94 Left at Silver Lake Road Left at CR 521 south Straight at CR 519 South – in Hope Cross Rte. 46 Right at Brass Castle Road Right at Hardwick St. Left at Water St. Cross Bridge into Pennsylvania Riverton Hotel on left
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APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents
WE’RE OUTTA HER E
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
FreDerickSBurg, Virginia ExPLORING THE BACKROADS OF HISTORIC VIRGINIA They say Virginia is made for lovers and, while that may be true, we rode down here for the history, charm and roads. Fredericksburg, established in 1728, is located near the Rappahannock River crossing of the Fall Line and was a prominent port in Virginia during the colonial era. The Atlantic Seaboard Fall Line, or Fall Zone, is a 900mile (1,400 km) escarpment where the Piedmont and Atlantic coastal plain meet in the eastern United States. During the Civil War, Fredericksburg gained strategic importance due to its location midway between Washington and Richmond, the opposing capitals of the Union and the Confederacy. During the Battle of Fredericksburg, December 11–15, 1862, the town sustained significant damage from bombardment and looting by the Union forces. These day’s parts of Fredericksburg can be a bustling modern city, where the more historic sections hold onto a charm from its colorful past. While we were there we stopped into visit our friends at Morton’s BMW and Steve Anderson was kind enough to tell us about a great place to overnight in Fredericksburg Inn at The Olde Silk Mill. Originally named The Wakefield Hotel, the Inn was built in 1930 by the Heflin Family and is located in what was the Downtown Mill District. At one time the Wakefield Hotel was the third largest motor lodge on the east coast. It was a popular spot for travelers heading from Maine to Florida who were driving on Historic Route 1. Over the years the Inn has
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always been a family owned establishment (one owner being the Gore family). From 1970 to 2007, the Inn was named the Fredericksburg Colonial Inn. In 2007, Ed Whelan purchased the Inn and renovated it to a boutique hotel atmosphere. Mr. Whelan converted the vacant Old Silk Mill on the property, originally the C.W Tholtz Throwing Company (built in 1889), into a Wedding and Event Space. The Silk Mill was built in 1889 and was a factory that employed over
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
200 women. The women spun silk that was imported from Italy to go around spools for sewing. The Inn and Silk Mill are a piece of history kept alive for others to enjoy the unique ambiance and atmosphere of a non-conventional hotel and event space. Located in downtown Fredericksburg, The Inn is walking distance to area shops, antique stores, chef and family owned restaurants, historic landmarks and the heritage trail along the Rappahannock River. Fredericksburg is rich in Washington family history. George Washington’s mother’s home (The Mary Washington House) is 5 blocks from the Inn. His sister’s plantation (Kenmore Plantation) is 6 blocks and his
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brother Charles Washington’s tavern (The Rising Sun Tavern) is 5 blocks from the Inn. Fredericksburg is rich in Civil War history. The battlefields are all in close proximity. You can even enjoy a trolley tour to make sure you take in all the sights of this historic and charming town. We found the Inn at The Olde Silk Mill to be the perfect place to park the bikes, take a room and head out to explore the historic parts of Fredericksburg. After a bit of exploring and with dinner upon us we took Steve’s suggestion and stopped into the Capital Ale House that served up some delicious food and a number of local beers and ales. Continuing on we found a tiny little place
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
Page 20 with outdoor seating that fit the bill perfectly and we dined alfresco that evening. The next morning we made it a point to visit Picker’s Supply, a guitar store that specializes in rare acoustic and vintage instruments. A dangerous place for somebody with my condition – aquireanotherguitaritis. I did learn something I did not know, but as a guitarist I found this of interest…The power chord of modern guitar was first developed by Link Wray in Fredericksburg in 1958 during his first improvisation of the instrumental piece “Rumble”, a single released by Wray & His Ray Men. Nice! One place that you must visit while in Fredericksburg is the Fredericksburg Battlefield Visitor Center. The Battle of Fredericksburg, fought December 11-15, 1862, was one of the largest and deadliest of the Civil War. It featured the first major opposed river crossing in American military history. Union and Confederate troops fought in the streets of Fredericksburg, the Civil War’s first urban combat. And with nearly 200,000 combatants, no other Civil War battle featured a larger concentration of soldiers. This military park encompasses four major Civil War battlefields: Battle of Fredericksburg, Battle of Chancellorsville, Battle of the Wilderness, and Battle of Spotsylvania Court House. It also preserves four historic buildings associated with them: Chatham Manor, Salem Church, Ellwood, and the house where Stonewall Jackson died. At the center, take the time to see the 22-minute film narrated by James Earl Jones. Superbly done and well worth the time as it will give you a better appreciation of what happened here during the Civil War.
Virginia is for lovers; lovers of history, great people, delicious food and superb backroads. Sources: Morton’s BMW 5099 Jefferson Davis Hwy , Fredericksburg, VA 22408 540-891-9844 • www.mortonsbmw.com Inn at The Olde Silk Mill 1707 Princess Anne St, Fredericksburg, VA 22401 540-371-5666 •www.innattheoldesilkmill.com Rooms start at $89/night Pickers Supply 902 Caroline St. , Fredericksburg VA, 22401 540-371-4669 • pickerssupply.com Fredericksburg Battlefield Visitor Center 1013 Lafayette Blvd, Fredericksburg, VA 22401
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www.LIYamaha.com • 516-935-6969 Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. ©2014 Yamaha Motor Corporation. U.S.A. All rights reserved. • YamahaMotorsports.com
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973-839-1117 • www.pomptonsportcenter.com At Suzuki, we want every ride to be safe and enjoyable. So always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing. Never ride under the influence of alcohol or other drugs. Never engage in stunt riding. Study your owner's manual and always inspect your Suzuki before riding. Take a riding skills course. For the course nearest you call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 1-800-446-9227. Suzuki engineered the GSX-Rs® for experienced riders. Suzuki firmly believes racing belongs in one place-on the racetrack.. • Suzukicycles.com
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
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Hanover Powersports Presents
B IG CITY GETAWAY The johnstown Flood national memorial & museum On May 28, 1889 a storm formed in the mid-west, quickly moving east, only to be stalled by an opposing front over western Pennsylvania dumping nearly half a foot of rain in just 24 hours. In the region around Johnstown the local creeks and streams quickly over ran their banks. The Conemaugh River and its tributaries began to swell and by daybreak on Friday, May 31 parts of Johnstown were almost ten feet under water. Before hell arrived it was already a disaster. Miles upstream, at the South Fork Dam, Elias Unger, then president of the South Fork Fishing Club, awoke to the sight of Lake Conemaugh swollen after a nightlong heavy rainfall. Unger ran outside in the still-pouring rain to assess the situation and saw that the water was nearly cresting the dam. The South Fork Club was a prestigious place that included such famed entrepreneurs as Andrew Carnegie and Henry Clay Frick on its mem-
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind bership rolls. This day things were not so haughty as Unger quickly assembled a group of men to save the face of the dam by trying to unclog the spillway; it was blocked by the broken fish trap and debris caused by the swollen waterline. Other men tried digging another spillway at the other end of the dam to relieve the pressure, without success. Most remained on top of the dam, some plowing earth to raise it, while others tried to pile mud and rock on the face to save the eroding wall. Unger, Parke, and the rest of the men continued working until exhausted to save the face of the dam; they abandoned their efforts at around 1:30 p.m., fearing that their efforts were futile and the dam was at risk of imminent collapse. Unger ordered all of his men to fall back to high ground on both sides of the dam where they could do nothing but wait. During the day in Johnstown, the situation worsened as water rose to as high as 10 feet in the streets, trapping some people in their houses. A message was sent “The Dam is Becoming Dangerous and May Possibly Go!”
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
Page 22 At around 3:10 p.m., the South Fork Dam collapsed, freeing the 20 million tons of Lake Conemaugh to rip down the Little Conemaugh River. It took a full 40 minutes for the entire lake to drain of the water. On its way downstream, toward Johnstown 14 miles away, the crest picked up debris, trees, houses, and animals - crushing small villages along the way. At the Conemaugh Viaduct, a 78-foot high railroad bridge, the flood temporarily was stopped when debris jammed against the stone bridge’s arch. But within seven minutes, the viaduct collapsed, allowing the flood to resume its course. Because of this, the surging river gained renewed hydraulic head, resulting in an even stronger wave hitting Johnstown! It has been said that the volume of the flood through the narrow valley equaled the flow of the Mississippi River. It took almost a full hour before a wave, some 60 feet high and traveling at nearly 40 miles per hour, crashed into the small city of Johnstown. The residents were caught by surprise as the wall of water and debris bore down. The death toll was staggering. The largest in American history till that point with some 2,209 human souls confirmed loss. It reality it may have been far greater. The only other USA disasters with more fatalities would be the Galveston Hurricane of 1900 and 9/11. Ninety-nine entire families died in the flood, including 396 children. 124 women and 198 men were widowed, 98 children were orphaned. One-third of the dead, 777 people, were never identified; their remains were buried in the “Plot of the Unknown” in Grandview Cemetery in Westmont. This was the first major disaster that saw the newly formed Red Cross in action – with Clara Barton herself in charge. Barton arrived on June 5, 1889, to lead the group’s first major disaster relief effort; she did not leave for more than 5 months. This event and incredible death toll was felt around the planet as 18 nations sent money and relief aid including Germany, Russia, France, Australia, Turkey and Great Britain. At last year’s Fall Fiesta Rally, based in Shippensburg, Pennsylvania, we had a tour to the Johnstown area, first visiting the ruins of the South Fork Dam and then into Johnstown itself and the Johnstown Flood Museum. The dam remnants are located near South Fork and the museum itself some miles away from the city of Johnstown itself. We first made a stop by the dam, with its viewing stand to see what is left and then onto the town.
The museum there is more than impressive. The Johnstown Area Heritage Association opened the Johnstown Flood Museum in 1989, marking the centennial anniversary of the flood. In preparation for the opening, JAHA commissioned the internationally acclaimed filmmaker Charles Guggenheim to produce a documentary on the flood to be shown at the museum, which won the Academy Award for Best Documentary. The film puts the magnitude of this disaster in true perspective. Throughout the museum you will find relics, memorabilia, a multi-media map illustrating the path of the flood and historic artifacts from that fateful day. It is hard to spend time at both sites and not be moved by the enormity of this tragedy. Both the Johnstown Flood National Memorial Site and the Johnstown Flood Museum are both well worth seeking out when travelling in the region.
Johnstown Flood National Memorial 733 Lake Rd, South Fork, PA 814-886-6100 • www.nps.gov/jofl
Johnstown Flood Museum 304 Washington St, Johnstown, PA • 814-539-1889 • www.jaha.org
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BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
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BIG CITY GETAWAY • CYCLE SIDEBAR
SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA’S PREMIERE MOTORCYCLE TRAIL - THE CLAW OF THE DRAGON It would be a challenge for motorcycle riders to find a more beautiful driving trail than the scenic back roads of Southwest Virginia. Looping through the Blue Ridge Mountain range, The Claw of the Dragon is becoming one of the most popular destinations in the South for motorcycle enthusiasts. With the charming town of Wytheville, Virginia, as the trail’s center or hub, the trail features loops totaling over 350 miles as it ventures over to the community of Marion to the west and Galax to the east. The drive meanders through parts of seven Virginia counties but is easily accessible from Interstates 77 or 81 as a starting part. Along the way, riders have the opportunity to stop at many interesting and authentic attractions. After a heartstopping trip on the ride that follows Virginia Route 16, the two-lane ribbon over three mountains between Tazewell and Marion called Back of the Dragon, don’t miss some of the unique attractions nearby. Harkening back to the grand movie palaces of yesteryear, The Lincoln Theatre is the home of the nationally syndicated bluegrass music television series, “Song of the Mountains.” This beautiful facility is one of only three remaining Mayan Revival theaters in America. The General Francis Marion Hotel is a favorite of riders with its restaurant called The Black Rooster and a bar with 27 beer taps. Nearby, Virginia Sweetwater Distillery and Appalachian Mountain Spirits offer a unique taste of local flavor. Wolf’s Barbeque is also a hometown favorite with several other restaurants also available. Other interesting attractions include The Lincoln Theatre, Hungry Mother State Park, and the Museum of the Middle Appalachians. Next, continue on to the Wytheville area. Many people will recognize this area as the location where two interstates converge, but there’s a lot more interesting roads within the historic community. Riders will enjoy a challenging ride up Big Walker Mountain. As the 16mile scenic byway makes it way to the top, the rider is immersed in breathtaking flora and fauna of each season. At the top, take a rest at Big Walker Lookout, climb the 100 foot tower, and enjoy a snack in the country store. A variety of other local attractions such as Beagle Ridge Herb Farm, West Wind Winery, and Fort Chiswell Animal Park, offer the opportunity to enjoy some distinctive “homegrown” experiences. Wytheville’s downtown historic district allows visitors to leisurely walk the streets and discover the history that has made this a town of hospitality for over 200 years. Interesting shopping, museums, and the historic flavor of the 1776 Log House Restaurant are just a few of the must-see stops along the way. An evening of music can be enjoyed at the Wohlfahrt Haus Dinner Theatre or one of several music venues nearby. Wytheville has a variety of lodging accommodations from all-suite hotels to bed & breakfasts and cabins. A historic boutique hotel will open soon in the downtown district. The newest anchor community for The Claw of the Dragon is Galax. This Virginia city is steeped in the history of music. The Galax Old Fiddler’s Convention held the second week of August each year has earned the community the distinction of the “World Capital of Old
Time Mountain Music.” Festivals and special events are held at the Rex Theatre and in the downtown showcasing the area’s authentic sound. Capitalizing on the wealth of local artisans, the area is also home to the Chestnut Creek School of the Arts. A variety of classes offer a hands-on opportunity to explore an art or hone a craft with a local artist. The words “Galax” and “barbecue” are synonymous, so much so that the annual Smoke on the Mountain, Virginia State Barbecue Championship is held in downtown Galax each July. This is but a sampling of all the interesting things you can see and do as you ride The Claw of the Dragon and explore the interesting communities along the way. For more information, visit www.clawoftheDragon.com.
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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BACKROADS’ GREAT RIVER SERIES
Hudson River Ride
We cross them all the time – heading from here to there. We charge over bridges, both humble and mighty. We float across their waters from one side to the other. They sometimes go unnoticed and other times will take our breath away. Some have been immortalized with oil and canvas. Some had been built up so much that it almost became unrecognizable. Once they were our only means of travel, transportation and commerce. Today they remind us of those days as we ride along their shores. I am talking about the great rivers of the northeast and the history, and beauty they still carry with them. The Hudson, the Delaware, the Susquehanna and others help create this land and are still part of the fabric that makes it so special.
Over the next few months we’ll explore a few of them. Come along as with go on a Backroads’ River Ride!
The Hudson River • The Beginning While the Hudson gathers its water from the entire watershed, its recognized source is Lake Tear of the Clouds on the southwest side of New York’s highest peak, Mount Marcy. From Lake Tear, the Hudson journeys 315 miles and drops 4,322 feet in elevation on its way to New York Harbor. The river flows swiftly down from its mountain sources. In the 160 miles between Lake Tear of the Clouds and the Troy Dam, the river drops more than 4,300 feet over natural rapids and man-made dams. We’ll start our journey here, deep in the Adirondacks.
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North and west of Lake George, where Americade the World’s Largest Touring Rally calls home, you will find the paved Route called 28A. Just off this we’ll have to bear onto New York 84 (a wonderful piece of asphalt) and look for the small county road #25 or Tahawus Road. This path will run along the stream and waters that will eventually become this river. We would have come in from the north, but that isn’t happening. This road is more suited for KLRs than VFRs but if you have the right bike and fortitude you will see a part of the Hudson that many do not. Back on paved roads and heading basically ‘east’ on Route 28 ‘north’ the road runs along a good part of the Upper Hudson River and in this region you will cross over some small bridges that say as much. Routes 3 and 1, towards the small hamlet of Hadley, do a great job of mimicking the rivers flow. Near Corinth the river makes a northern and eastern turn and eventually reachs the Hudson Falls where it makes a hard turn south – now a proper river. It was here that the Hudson was ruined for years due to PCB pollution. General Electric manufactured electrical capacitors using PCBs from 1952 until 1976. Shortly before ceasing operations at Hudson Falls, GE was cited for polluting the Hudson due to “corporate abuse and regulatory failure.” One year later, the Environmental Protection Agency outlawed discharges of
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015 PCBs in navigable waters. Unfortunately for the Hudson it was too late. In 1983, the EPA placed a 40-mile stretch of the river on the Federal Superfund list as a toxic waste site. Thirty years later the Hudson has sprung back in a remarkable way and the dam and ruins of the factories stand in stark contrast to this river’s natural beauty. From Fort Edward south we can run along Route 4 and then onto River Road that follows closely along the Hudson into Troy, New York. We’re sure the bustling city has a few places for lunch so go for it. And, if you find something exquisite let us know about it.
From Upper River to Lower River The Troy Dam, also known as the Federal Dam, is the demarcation between the upper and lower Hudson River. Below the dam, the river’s elevation drops only a few feet over the rest of its 153-mile course to New York City. Here you will also find part of the Lock System that allows marine traffic north and south of this point. Some 134 miles above the Battery in New York City, this spot marks the head of tidal waters of the Hudson River.
Page 27 The lower Hudson, south of Troy, is a long arm of the sea, influenced by the Atlantic Ocean’s high and low tides. Rising and falling tides on the Hudson cause the river’s currents to switch direction - alternately flowing south towards the sea for a few hours and then north towards Troy. Native Americans recognized the tidal nature of the river, calling it Mahicantuck, which means “river that flows both ways.” From Troy south we will stay on the eastern shore along Route 9J past Schodack island, a state park. You will eventually run into Route 9G and we’ll cross the Hudson at Route 199 and then south on Route 9W. Along the way we can head next to the river on a few routes, almost always called River Road. We’ll cut along Newburg and down into the Hudson Highlands along Storm King Mountain and West Point.
The Hudson Fjord? Storm King marks the northern entrance to the Hudson Highlands, where forested mountains slope steeply into very deep water. The scenery here is reminiscent of Norway’s fjords. Fjords are defined as valleys eroded well below sea level by glaciers, and then filled by the sea after the glaciers melt.
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
Page 28 They are deepest upstream of their mouths, where the erosive power of the glacier was greatest. By this definition, the Hudson qualifies as a fjord: it is deepest in the Highlands - up to 175 feet deep at West Point. It was here that our Continental Army strung a giant chain across the waters to stop the British Navy from heading up the river. The chain can still been seen at the West Point Military Academy. Ditch Route 9W for Route 218 here – far more fun!
The River Dodges a Bullet This is my favorite part of the river and the reason for an entire genre’ of artists called, fittingly, The Hudson River School, to evolve in the region. But, back in the early ‘60s things almost changed forever. Overlooking Newburgh Bay is Storm King Mountain, a famous feature of the Hudson Valley landscape. In 1962, the Consolidated Edison Power Company proposed to build a pumped storage electrical generating plant that would have cut away the face of Storm King. Worried about impacts on the mountain’s scenery and the potential for fish kills at the water intakes, concerned citizens formed the Scenic Hudson Preservation Conference to oppose the project. The Scenic Hudson Preservation Conference laid the foundation for the modern environmental movement. In 1965, the group won a precedent-set-
ting lawsuit, establishing a requirement that environmental and aesthetic impacts be considered before project approval. This hard-won legal decision became the basis for the National Environmental Policy Act and New York’s State Environmental Quality Review Act. Thanks to this decision Storm King is still one of the jewels along the Hudson.
Preserving The Palisades Back on Route 9W you pass the Bear Mountain Bridge and Harriman State Park. A quick ride up to the top of Perkins Drive and the steps of the tower will offer you the best view of the river you have yet seen and is also where the first miles of the Appalachian Trail had its beginning. Heading further south you will ride along the famous Palisades. Lining much of the Hudson’s western shore from Haverstraw Bay south
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
Page 29 Restored to its glory years during the roaring 20’s, the General Francis Marion Hotel is steeped in history and elegance with all the modern amenities. Located just 1.8 miles from Route 16 - the Back of the Dragon. 260 curve, 32-mile, 3 mountain roller coaster of a ride. Incredible vistas, panoramic views and enough roads to ride for days!
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to New York City are the magnificent cliffs of the Palisades. In the late 1800s, quarries threatened to ruin the scenic grandeur of the Palisades. Residents of the river’s eastern shore and Women’s Clubs in New Jersey led a successful campaign to protect the cliffs by persuading New York and New Jersey to purchase the land and manage the area as the Palisades Interstate Park. Just south of the State Line Lookout, at the border with the Garden State, you can motor down along Henry Hudson Drive. This little road is a hidden jewel to some and will pass directly under the George Washington Bridge, the most traveled bridge on the planet.
The Sea For more than 300 miles the river has headed south and now passes under the Verrazano Bridge and into the Atlantic Ocean. You can, if you are so inclined, ride over the George Washington and down the West Side Highway to the bottom of Manhattan.
It was here that the Dutch steeled along the bay at the bottom of the North River. From the early days, before Europeans arrived to today’s conservation efforts and renaissance, the Hudson River has been a part of the landscape and, later, a deep part of American History. Hope you enjoyed the ride. Next month we’ll continue on these River Rides with a sojourn along the Delaware.
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APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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10 FOR
THE
ROAD
Brian Rathjen Last month, in Welcome to the Jungle, I talked a bit about the pros and cons of riding and touring solo. Although I almost always ride with my pal/buddy/wife, heading out on a solo tour offers its own kind of magic. But there are a few things you might like to take along on the road – actually it helps to have these along all the time, but especially when one’s on the road alone. Here are my ten for the road…
#1 – a Well ThoughT-ouT Tool kiT Years ago most machines came with a rudimentary tool kit. Not so much anymore. Take stock of what you are carrying on your machine. If you are 1269 DOLSONTOWN RD MIDDLETOWN NY 10940
touring set aside space in your luggage just for tools and gear. On my GS the left bag is dedicated just for extras and the most important is my tool kit. Most of these tools are not OEM specific, but they allow for just about everything I would need to do in a variety of situations, including a second flashlight. Take a good look at what you are carrying along for the ride. Keep what you really need and leave the rest. I have tried a number of tool bags and kits and companies like CruzTools can make tool selection even easier. These days I have a good-sized OtterBox full of everything I might need. This keeps all the tools together and dry as well, as there is no need to let your tools rust out in your saddlebag. Go through your tools every now and again, as they need maintenance too.
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Last season, on a return trip from Virginia, we were passing through on a road heavily used by commercial trucks. Out of the blue I felt the back of my bike ride over something that momentarily lifted it up and that was followed by a thumping at each turn of the wheel. Immediately pulling to the side of the road I spotted a large bolt head embedded into the tire (new tire by the way - ain’t they always?). The tire was still holding air, but was unrideable with the large bolt protruding out of it. I found the nearest parking lot and put the machine on the center stand – in the pouring rain – with trucks whizzing by – and not much else in sight. Using the Leatherman Tool I keep strapped to the frame of the GS, I slowly began to pull out the bolt. It kept coming and coming. It was far larger than I though it would be and the largest thing I have ever seen come out of a tire that was still holding air. The holding air thing came to a quick end when the large hingepin came free.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015 The diameter of the hole in the tire was substantial but I gave my Stop & Go a chance and, remarkably, even with the size of the puncture, the plug settled in nicely. I inflated it with my CyclePump from BestRest Products (another thing that always comes along for the ride) and it held air. I pumped it up to a little more than usual, checked with a gauge, and continued my ride home. There are some Stop & Go Kits that have CO2 cartridges and small pumps with built-in pressure gauge as well. This day, from puncture to repaired and back rolling, took less than 10 minutes. Major inconvenience avoided. I did soon replace the tire but the repair held pressure and lost nothing until then.
#3 cell Phone anD charger This is pretty much a no-brainer. Who doesn’t have a modern smart phone these days? But, do you have an easily working charging system on your motorcycle? Simply being able to call ahead on a busy night for a sure hotel room, adds into the mix everything else such as weather maps, routing and email along with the vastness of the web. Today it is a breeze to set up a powered USB Plug somewhere on your machine. Companies like 3 BR Powersports make this easy. Having a fully charged smartphone on the road today can be a blessing in so many ways, especially when you are riding on your own.
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#4 elecTronic gooDneSS & counTermeaSureS gPS, BaSecamP equiPPeD laPToP & raDar DeTecTor We all know electrons seem to rule the world. Time to embrace this. Although there are still many riders who will not jump into the GPS pool, there is no denying that today’s motorcycle-friendly GPS – like Garmin’s Zumo series - make riding and routing a breeze.
Nobody is telling you not to use paper maps, or drag a laptop around with you. But, I choose to. The ability to know where you are and where you are going, when the next turn is coming up and to know where you are, more or less, in the day’s journey takes a bit of pressure off and allows you to enjoy the ride, scenery and motorcycling experience to a greater degree. Plotting out my next day’s route has become one of the important parts of my riding day. My hotel room almost looks like a command center for NORAD with maps laid out and the BaseCamp fired up on the computer. Do I follow these routes exactly the next day? Most times not, but I have found more interesting roads, villages and oddities with these far more intricate routes than I would just using a Manually Acquired Position System.
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APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
Page 32 Having a good radar detector is also an excellent idea when riding alone. When you’re by yourself you can’t really blame the infractions on your friend so it’s best to avoid the local law enforcement all together. The new versions of the Adaptiv’s TPx and the Valentine One are cutting edge technology against local coffers. Always slow down in town. Always keep your detector on, even in Virginia.
#5 SPoT gPS All right, this is really more for the peace of mind of your family, friends and loved ones. (You do have some, right?) I have had a SPOT Gen. 3 Satellite Messenger attached to my saddlebag for a year or so now and although I have never used it more than the Check-in/OK button to say “Na na na na naaa” to said family, friends and loved ones that I was on the road having a great time and they were not, this little gizmo can save your life. When just traveling around locally I occasionally send out a “ping” to a small list of folks who get an email alerting them to where I am. Again, I usually do that in a malicious fashion. But, while on the road, especially solo, I can set the SPOT to update a map that can be followed by family and friends and will let them know exactly where I am and where I have ridden. If I suddenly go missing like Oceanic 815 at least they will have an idea where to send the Federales. Just as important if there is a mishap I can call for authorities with a push of the SPOT’s SOS button that will alert the GEOS International Emergency Response Center that will contact the appropriate agencies worldwide – for example contacting 9-1-1 responders in North America and 1-1-2 responders in Europe. In really dire cases SHIELD and/or the Avengers.
#6 heDz heaD gear HEDz and similar products are a seamless tube of polyester microfiber, which can be worn around the neck and head in different combinations. Hell, I have seen gals use them as tops and even a makeshift skirt in Daytona. The microfiber fabric wicks moisture away from your skin to keep you warmer in cold weather and cool and dry in warm weather. It stretches in width to fit everyone and takes up no space at all. I have them all over the place. In tank bags, top cases, jacket pockets. Simply worn around the neck they easily allow for an easy ten-degree window of riding in colder weather. They come is a world of colors, patterns and styles and we even have a few Monkey with a Gun HEDzs.
#7 STraPS Straps are like a good attorney. They are great to have around, for when they are needed they are really needed. More than once have I needed to secure a smashed saddlebag or tail pack back onto a machine after a mishap or gravity storm. Carrying a few good straps will save the day. Although good old bungee cords still will do the trick, there are far better and more secure ways to secure things, packages and gear to your ride. A few good examples of superior strapping come from NiteIze, with their Cam Jam Strap, the venerable ROK Straps work every time and BestRest has their Gotcha Straps that also do the job as well and are so easy to
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BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
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use and also come up to 72 inches long. If something breaks, falls off or needs to be carried it is best to have a secure and working strapping system handy.
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One of the worst feelings one can have, as a solo rider (or group rider for that matter), is the sudden realization that you can’t find your keys or that your wallet is missing. If you are solo riding and lose your wallet or keys everything can come to a screeching halt. I would say “trust me” – but, we have all been there, no? That is why I usually have a few extra emergency Ben Fs around as well as an extra key lurking nearby as well. Aerostich makes a great money belt for this, as well as Greg Frazier Stash Pockets. I think they are a must have when on the road solo.
I am sure there are probably a number of things I haven’t thought of. What do you carry when on the road? I’d like to know.
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APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival
The Chaos Factor /ka,äs/ • noun: chaos; plural noun: chaoses complete disorder and confusion. Early this February a commuter train on the Metro/North heading from Manhattan to points north struck a Mercedes SUV that had stopped in between the barriers and across the tracks. The impact slammed the car forward more than 1,000 feet causing the electrified third rail to rise up and drive though the first rail car and into the second. The ensuing fire killed six, including the driver of the car, Ellen Brody. You wonder how all this can happen? There are signs, flashing lights, guard rails dropping down to stop cars from crossing. But, still the SUV and Ellen Brody were struck by the train. The Chaos Factor. While I have mentioned chaos before, I have oft times joked of whom I call the Gods of Chaos but the truth is, when they speak, it is usually never a good thing. A hundred little things went into the recipe that brought us this horrific outcome. We know the woman was heading to meet friends when an accident on the Taconic forced her off that road and on to secondary local streets. Heading back toward the Taconic she went to cross the tracks when the rail came down on the back of her car. According to Rick Hope, the motorist directly behind her, she stopped her SUV and got out to try to move the rail. Hope signaled to her to get out of there as the train was approaching. Instead of getting to safety she returned to her car and rolled forward as the train crossed, barreling through the crossing.
“The thing’s dinging, red lights are flashing, it’s going off,” Mr. Hope said. “I just remember going, ‘Hurry up.’ I just knew she was going to back up — never in my wildest dreams did I think she’d go forward.” She drove forward. “It was just instantaneous,” he said. “She was gone.” The ensuing chaos killed five others in the train as well. And, that is what was in play here – that unpredictable thing we call the chaos factor. It is everywhere and is part of everything. If the accident did not happen on the Taconic putting her on the local roadways? If she did not return to her car, or if she had backed up? If she had left work five minutes earlier or later? If Ellen Brody was not in that exact place at that exact moment six families would not be crushed and six families could have had life go on the way it should have. There are a lot of ifs here. The Chaos Factor once again. Chaos affects us on each ride. Every time we put on our gear, strap on our helmet and roll out onto the streets the Chaos Factor is in play. Now, some will say that you cannot fight against your destiny or that some things, no matter how bad, are simply meant to be. I believe that is simplistic and an easy way to accept that appalling, uncontrollable events can happen in an instant. There are no God, Gods or deities of any type involved here, but a part of nature that embraces the unpredictable.
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Yes, there may be some Sheldon Cooper’ish math that works things out, but it’s beyond us here at Backroads and we’ll let people like Andrew Wiles work on it. The only way to avoid some of the chaos out there is to be vigilant. Space cushioning (a rider’s best friend), constant scanning and being aware of your situation and riding environment as well as being as conspicuous as you can helps too; as even though the woman speeding down the road towards you may become chaos for you, you, too, can be chaos for her.
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I know I am never totally comfortable when driving in an automobile and having motorcycles around me and I try to give them more than enough room to operate safely and ride their own ride. Practice pays off when things go bad quickly. Seasoned and quick responses can make the difference between simply making a correctable error and a mistake. We learn from our errors, but we pay for our mistakes. Be vigilant and learn to survive chaos.
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We needed a good, sturdy and waterproof bag to haul around Shira’s gear on a recent trip to Ecuador and had to look no further than SHAD and their SW55L Zulupack Waterproof Dry Travel Bag. This is a 100% waterproof mid-sized travel bag that easily straps onto any motorcycle and worked just as easily tossed into the back of a pick-up truck in heavy mountain rain as well. We found it to be the definition of rugged. Created from 420D nylon double-sided PVC coating. The Zulupack is fastened with a PVC watertight zipper and 3 fold, Velcro-styled closure, on top to secure water-tightness. This well-made and durable bag offers a large zipped compartment of 45L, a medium front zipped compartment of 10L and a hanged inside pocket on the top. It also includes 4 compression side belts for 3 different compression areas and 2 belts to store stuff on top of the front pocket. It can easily be carried thanks to the foamed shoulder straps, which can be hidden, and back cushioned with high density EVA foam, enhancing the easy handling when the bag is heavily loaded. And, we really loaded it. This bag amazingly swallowed all of Shira’s gear and then some. Once cinched down tight and closed it was air tight, it was an easily handled bundle that could be quickly strapped onto the back of her GS or deftly manhandled into lodge and hotel rooms throughout Ecuador. We were sold on the shear versatility of the bag. If you are looking to do some serious exploring and know there will be a bit of rain (okay, a lot of rain), this can be your answer. SHAD Zulupack SW55 lists for $169 and can be found at SHAD dealership or on-line at shadusa.com.
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ Texas Smoke Barbecue, 400 Route 15 South, Jefferson, NJ. Dine indoors or out with dinner specials. Meet and kick some tires while enjoying some terrific barbeque • www.TexasSmokeBBQ.com • 862-209-4078 Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com Every Saturday • Stop by the dealership at 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn! No shorts or sneakers. • Bergen Harley-Davidson/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com
APRIL 2015 1 thru May 31 • Bob's BMW Motorcycles Ride the Road to Arts. Scavenger Hunt for riders to visit all 12 art sculptures put up by Howard County Art Council, take selfies and submit for chances to win prizes. 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301497-8949 • www.bobsbmw.com 10-11 • Motorcycle Mall Suzuki Demo Days. 655 Washington Ave, Belleville, NJ • 973-751-4545 • MotorcycleMall.com 9-12 • Horizons Unlimited Travellers meeting, Appomattox, VA. Have you ever wondered about riding your motorcycle to far-away lands? How about around the world? If you dream those kinds of dreams, this is the event for you! Overland travelers and those who aspire to do so will gather for a weekend of fun, information and friendship at the Holiday Lake 4-H Camp near Appomattox, VA. Along with seminars and presentations, the weekend also marks the 150th anniversary of the end of the Civil War at nearby Appomattox Courthouse. Registration $45 until Dec. 31, fee increases after that date. Complete information @ www.horizonsunlimited.com/events/virginia-2015 18 • Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Spring Open House. 9a-4p. Demo rides on new models, door prizes, food, music, vendors, great deals. More info at www.mortonsbmw.com • 540-891-9844 • 5099A Jefferson Davis Hwy, Fredericksburg, VA 25 • Bob's BMW Spring Open House + BOB-B-QUE • 9a-4p. 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301-497-8949 • Full details @ www.bobsbmw.com
MAY 2015 2 • Bergen Harley-Davidson Demo Days. Free Demo rides, food and music. 10am4pm. 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • BergenHarleyDavidson.com
What’s Happening 15-17 • Morton’s BMW Spring Fling Rally, Natural Bridge, VA. Shenandoah Valley for the 5th annual Spring Fling, courtesy of Morton’s BMW. Centered at the newly renovated Natural Bridge Hotel, we’ll enjoy great riding, informative seminars and presentations, good food, a catered Saturday dinner buffet, an optional Friday evening Brats & Brews dinner and more. Registration is $50 until May 1, $60 after that date. More information @ www.mortonsbmw.com • 540-891-9844 16-17 • New Sweden BMW Riders’ New Sweden 450. The premise is simple. 450 miles of amazing roads, a night of camping, a hearty dinner and breakfast; LImited to 200 riders. Finishing patches available. Sign in: Cycle Gear, 2070 Rte. 70 East, Cherry Hill, NJ 8:30-10am • Endsite: Pic-a-Lilli Inn, 866 Rte. 206, Shamong, NJ. $50 pre-reg • $60 day of event. For more info please visit www.nsbmwr.com 17 • Bergen Harley-Davidson Freedom Run + Festival 13. Overpeck Park, Ridgefield Park, NJ • Sign in: 8:30-9:30 am • 10am KSU • $25/$15:rider/pass. Benefits the 200 Club of Bergen County. See ad on page 24 for full details 17 • Ramapo MC SPring Fun Run. Sign in/Endsite: Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte. 17) Sloatsburg, NY • 9am to mid-afternoon. Benefits Helen Hayes Rehabilition Hospital. A designated route along some of the Hudson Valley’s most interesting roads, with stops for poker/dice/scrabble or other games, with a chance to win prizes, while supporting a worthy cause. ramapomc.org • RMC@ramapomc.org 22-24 • CT River Valley BMW Riders Charter Oak Rally. Sign in: Camp NAHACO, 305 Crystal Pond Rd, Woodstock Valley, CT. $40/pp adv • $50pp/gate. New location, several lean-tos and cabins (first come) Entry incl. bottomless coffee, Friday chili dinner, Sat. dinner, Sat/Sun. continental style breakfast and more • 860-9659160/860-262-0247 • rally@crvbmw.org 28-31 • Backroads Spring Break 2015. Three (or four) day road trip heading north (or south if you live in Canada). 1st night: Yankee Inn, Lenox, MA • nights 2 + 3: Golden Arrow Resort, Lake Placid, NY • night 4: somewhere in the Catskills (call/email Backroads for details). Full info: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html. As always, gathering is free, just pay your own way and have a great time. Questions? editor@backroadsusa.com • 973-948-4176
JUNE 2015 1-6 • Americade, world's largest multi-brand motorcycle touring rally, attracting over 100,000 annually. Come for the day or for the week to the "Best Riding Event in the U.S." with the most factory demos, a massive motorcycle expo, lots of incredible motorcycle events and more amazing rides than any other event in the country. Events include guided and unguided rides, poker runs, scavenger hunt, trade show, bike shows, vendors, entertainment, and more • 518-798-7888 • www.americade.com
Motorcyclist-Friendly Destination Lodging Located on Scenic Route 100 in Southern Vermont Hot breakfast, cooked to order. BYOB bar, firepit, pool, hot tub, game room and WiFi. Free Maps and Suggested Rides. Group Special Packages. On-site Group Dinners available. 5 restaurants/bars within walking distance
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290 Route 100, West Dover, VT 800-745-3615
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BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
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UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR 13-21 • Laconia Motorcycle Week – the original riding rally. All of the attractions that you can imagine, attracting the best custom bike builders and their creations. Events and attractions are going on everywhere, but the place to be at night is Weirs Beach • 603-366-2000 • www.laconiamcweek.com 15-16 • CLASS returns to Virginia International Raceway Monday and Tuesday for a two-day class around one of the nicest facilities in the US. Sign up by March and receive $100 off the weekend fee. For more information please visit www.classrides.com or call 805-933-9936. 20 • Bob's BMW Motorcycles Seminar: Tips for Properly Strapping Down a Motorcycle.11am. 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301-497-8949 • www.bobsbmw.com 25-28 • Johnstown Thunder in the Valley, Johnstown, PA • 800-237-8590 • www.visitjohnstownpa.com/thunderinthevalley
JULY 2015 18 • Bob's BMW Motorcycles Healthy Riding Seminar: Discuss potential health related issues motorcyclists might encounter such as hypothermia and how to trat/prevent.10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301-497-8949 • www.bobsbmw.com 18-19 • Ramapo MC 39th Annual running of the Ramapo 500™. Sign in/Endsite: Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte. 17) Sloatsburg, NY • 7AM • $35 adv. reg/$50/day of event. 500+ miles of gorgeous scenery and backroads, free camping, pool, Saturday night dinner, awards and prizes, Sunday breakfast, starter pins and finishers patch. Garmin GPS upload for additional fee • ramapomc.org • RMC@ramapomc.org 23-25 • 43rd BMW MOA International Rally, MetraPark, Billings Montana • www.bmwmoa.org
AUGUST 2015 7-8 • 38th Annual Daniel Boone Rally sponsered by the Carolinas BMW Motorcycle Owners Assoc. Great Riding Roads, Hospitality and Comaraderie in cool North Carolina Mountain air. All riders and brands welcome - room for everyone at the KOA campgrounds in Boone, NC. $45 rally fee includes two-nights camping, pin to first 200 attendees, door prizes, Sat. evening BBQ, donuts & coffee sunday morning, 24 hour coffee, tea, hot chocolate, iced tea & lemonade. Also People's Choice Award,self-guided route sheets and GPS downloads (on and off-road), fee wi-fi and so much more. Full details www.carolinasbmwmoa.org or email rally@bmwmoa.org 16 • BACKROADS 200. NJ/NY/PA 200+ mile ride. Details page 44 20-23 • America’s 9/11 Ride remembering the 14th Anniversary honoring the first responders. Police escorted ride from Shanksville, PA to the Pentagon to the World Trade Center. Pre-reg closed 8/10/15. More info: www.americas911ride.org
What’s Happening 19-22 • Trio Tour 2015 sponsored by the Westchester Bemmers NY. Sport-touring ‘scavenger hunt’ event. Three consecutive daily rides begin/end Lincoln, NH-based location. Daily rides average 8.5 hours and cover 350 miles. Five/Six checkpoints per day, plus daily wild card bonuse opportunities. Rider packets include bonus locations sent electronically 7 days ahead of the Rider Briefing on Day One. LIMITED TO 33 RIDERS. $65/solo • $95/two-up. For full details and registration visit www.triotour.org • FB: tinyurl.com/triotourFB • email: jmajsak@verizon.net • 914328-7909
SEPTEMBER 2015 17-21 • Backroads Fall Foliage 2015. 4-night road trip to Virginia/West Virginia riding heaven. 1st night: George Washington Hotel, Winchester, VA • nights 2 + 3: Isaac Jackson Hotel, Elkins, WV • 4th night: Shippen Place Hotel, Shippensburg, PA. We’ll visit some old and new stops, and bring you on some great twisties. Full info: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html. As always, gathering is free, just pay your own way and have a great time. Questions? editor@backroadsusa.com • 973-9484176 19 • Bob's BMW Motorcycles Oktoberfest & Open House 9A-4P.10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301-497-8949 • www.bobsbmw.com
OCTOBER 2015 11 • Ramapo Motorcycle Club Fall Foliage Tour. Sign in/Endsite: Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte. 17) Sloatsburg, NY 9am-mid-afternoon. Benefits Valerie Fund for Childhood Cancer Research. A guided or self-guided tour featuring the best autumn pallet Mother Nature can provide along some of the Hudson Valley’s most interesting roads. For more info: ramapomc.org • RMC@ramapomc.org Watch calendar and website for new events and upcoming 2015 Backroads Rally announcements. Follow us on Facebook for up-to-the-minute information: www.facebook.com/pages/Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine
POLAR BEAR GRAND TOUR 2014-15 APRIL 2015 12 • CHEEBURGER CHEEBURGER 336 Northampton St., Easton, PA 18042 • 610438-1311 • www.cheeburger.com/pennsylvania 19 • CAPE MAY V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 • 609884-7961 25 • END OF THE SEASON GET-TOGETHER - At The Pic-a-Lilli Inn, starting @ 11:30 AM. The rain date would be April 26, 2015; same time. Cost to Members: $6.00 per person. There will be salad, Wings, Beef, rolls, and lemonade, plus a cash bar. You must get an arm band from your flight leader.
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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O’Life here! Last March I was brought to the southern part of the Sunshine state on some state business I would really rather not get into here but, needless to say, I found myself just north of the Palm Beach area with a Honda Gold Wing and a few days to kill. Maybe not in that order.
The Clewiston Inn was originally built in 1928, along the unprotected waterfront of Lake Okeechobee, by one of the large sugar companies. But, back then this part of Florida was tough going and this tough old place survived the great 1926 and 1928 hurricanes only to be destroyed by a fire in 1937. Today’s classical revival style structure was rebuilt in 1938. I had heard of the hotel’s bar and mural found within and, although the restaurant is closed (the lady at the desk informed me if she told me why, she’d have to kill me…don’t ever eat here!) I was able to grab a drink and see what this was all about. The Everglades Lounge and Bar inside has a 360-degree wildlife mural featuring the flora and fauna of the Florida Everglades, created in the early 1940s by J. Clinton Shepherd (1888-1975). This Palm Beach artist stayed at the Inn for many months, making frequent trips to the Everglades to sketch the animals, although he must have missed the infamous and elusive Skunk Ape. The entire mural was done on one gigantic canvas and then brought to the hotel and miraculously papered onto the wall in the bar, where it hangs in grandeur today. With the restaurant now closed and tourist bucks dwindling I wonder for how much longer. The Clewiston Inn was a good start to this interesting journey. Now at the southern end of the big lake, I decided to go in search of the Skunk Ape that I have heard so much about and pointed the GL1800 south, through orange groves and sugar cane fields on the roads straight as a ruler. How motorcyclists enjoy their bikes down here eludes me.
Hearing the sweet sound of balls off bats in Port Saint Lucie I spun the Wing north and found myself at Tradition Field taking in a spring training game with my Mets going against the Saint Louis Cards. It was nice to escape a chilly Greenwich Village and bask in some warm Florida weather whilst watching my Mets drop one to the Cardinals. No mystery there, but at least they made a game of it. I had a few things I wanted to explore back to the south and west and not soon after the game had let out I was swinging down along the large lake that dominated the Florida maps - Lake Okeechobee. Florida is known for many things but what, after all the miles, came in front of me next was something rarely seen in this state. A series of turns! I tried not to panic and remembered that the sweet handling Honda should easily be able to traverse the curve in the road. Turns negotiated, I settled into another hour of straight. By late dinnertime I rode into the shore town of Clewiston and my stop for the night, The Clewiston Inn. Nestled in the heart of South Florida’s sugar cane country and on the shore of Lake Okeechobee, the Historic Clewiston Inn was the perfect overnight for my Mysterious South Florida adventure. And, it was haunted.
Along the way I was crossed not once but twice, by a large Florida long tail weasel. Easily 3 feet or longer they were off doing whatever weasels do at 9 am and something I had never encountered before. The first time I had plenty of distance between me and Mr. Weasel, the second some quick maneuvering was called for. Now riding in Seminole country I stopped at a small general store called the Azteca in a place called Devil’s Garden. It was the first place I had seen for many miles, and was operated by two native woman who spoke a combination native and Spanish. I asked them about the weasels and the area, but they were less than helpful and I moved on. Cutting across the state I spotted warning signs for Florida Panthers. These beautiful cats are the most imperiled in North America with only 50 to 60 now surviving in the wild. The panthers are a bit smaller that other cougars and have a longer distinctive snout when adults. They have no natural enemies and are fading away due to inbreeding, and the occasional car fatality. Poachers occasionally do evil, but there is a heavy fine and jail time for such a heinous act. There is a $15,000 reward for information on anyone hurting the cats. I stopped by one trail and spent a bit of time walking the small path, but did not see any of the elusive and shy kitties.
nds , e g e L owd wamp r S C r h o t f r arch w Ea o l l o H The Se nd the a s r e nth Shy Pa
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
My big stop today would be Dave Shealy’s Skunk Ape Research Headquarters and Trail Lakes Campground in Ochopee. But, before I arrived there I could not pass up the nation’s smallest post office. The post office at Ochopee, Florida, our nation’s smallest, is a regular stop on the south Florida tourist circuit. The building, once a tool shed, was converted into the post office after a fire in 1953 destroyed the original Ochopee post office located in the Gaunt Company Store. Today the structure serves as both the post office and the Trailways Bus Stop. Local residents, Mr. Cail and Mr. Sidney Brown, built shelves and cubby holes to hold the mail. When Tamiami Trail was widened, the building was moved back on a wheelbarrow to its current location. The office is open two hours in the morning and two in the afternoon and certainly is a “little” piece of Mysterious America. It was near noon and without any breakfast I was fam-
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ished, but that was soon handled by the only game in this part of the Glades – Joanie’s Blue Crab Café – an absolute must do for some serious food in this region of Florida. Yes, it was a tad pricey, but look where you are and we’re talking incredible flavors here… and, motorcycle parking. This is a Great All American Diner Run waiting to happen. The blackened grouper was awesome as was the soft shell crab sandwich and the she-crab soup, a meal unto itself. Six stars on the five star rating. Just down the road was Dave Shealy’s Skunk Ape Research Headquarters. Reports of the Skunk Ape were particularly common in the 1960s and 1970s. In the fall of 1974, numerous sightings were reported in suburban neighborhoods of Dade County, Florida, of a large, foul-smelling, hairy, apelike creature, which ran upright on two legs.
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In 2000, near the Myakka River, many miles north of the Everglades, there were numerous reports of a large ape-like creature stealing fruit and foraging in and around the locals’ homes and properties. The animal was also reported to have a horrid smell and convincing pictures of something surfaced and made the news. As you would think I was more than a tad interested in whatever was out there and thus my visit. I was more than excited to talk to Dave, except he wasn’t here. Neither was anything really related to the Skunk Ape. Sure, ol’ Dave had plenty of tee shirt’s, tchotchkes and stickers – but not much more than a questionable far-away photo of something ape-like and some plaster ape statues. Considering my column, Mysterious America, has brought you so many great cryptozoology places, I was sorely disappointed. But, on the good side the place did have a great number of local and wild animals – pythons, turtles, birds, tortoise and an alligator. One reticulating python looked like it came from a Conan movie. It was easily 14 feet long
MORE ROOMS ADDED TO OUR BLOCK
and a foot and half thick. My take on Shealy’s place is he had the property and animals and used a local legend to bring folks in. Well, he got me….But, just once. Still, if you like to get close to wild things it may be worth the 5 bucks. It was time to make some miles to the Gulf of Mexico and then head north. After a morning in the Everglades, with its wide open vistas and traffic free roads, it was sad to ride into towns like Naples and such with its massive over-crowding and traffic jams. Heading up the coast on Route 44 I did the best I could to go around some drivers that should have stopped driving 10 years back, but I had a few more things to see before I called it a night. One was to stop by the cult compound of the Koreshan. As cults go this one is a doozey. The Koreshan Unity was a communal utopia formed by Cyrus Teed, who took the name “Koresh”, the original Persian of his name Cyrus. The Koreshans followed Teed’s beliefs, called Koreshanity.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
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It all started when Teed was experimenting with electricity and was knocked unconscious. When he came to he claimed to have a vision of a beautiful woman who told him the secrets of the galaxy and to gather followers and redeem humanity. Funny, the same thing happened to me at Mardi Gras some years back. One of the secrets was that the world was hollow and we lived on a planet that was outside looking in and that the Earth was a hollow spinning sphere and that we inhabit the inside held to the inner walls by centrifugal force. The stars were reflections of seven spinning light discs as was the moon. Don’t laugh too hard, the Nazis actually tried to search this out.
The Koreshan Unity started in the 1870s in upstate New York (how many cults sprung up in New York state during the spiritualism movement is beyond counting, but the Mormons spring to mind), where Teed started preaching his beliefs. He formed shortlived groups in New York City and Moravia. He later moved to Chicago. Teed’s followers formed a commune in Chicago in 1888 called Beth-Ophra. Some followers also formed a short-lived community in San Francisco. In truth everywhere they went they were disliked by locals and ended up in, sometimes, violent disputes with many. They moved on a great deal. Eventually, Teed took his followers to Estero, Florida, to form his “New Jerusalem” in 1894. The community was at its peak 19031908, when it had over 250 residents. There were apparently another 4,000 believers around the country. Teed had a vision in which he was to establish a utopian city of 10,000,000 with streets up to 400 feet wide. Membership declined following his death in 1908. He was interred in Fort Myers, where his body was under 24-hour guard and a small boat was moored for his eventual resurrection that never came. Eventually a hurricane hit the city and when it was over Cyrus Teed’s above ground grave was gone. He has not been heard of since. I rode further north and to the gulf islands of Sanibel and Captiva, where the islands themselves were very pretty, but too crowded and a bit hoity toity for my taste, so I headed further north to find a hotel with almost reasonable rates and called it a night with the Wing ticking softly as it cooled off in the Floridian night. The next morning found me in Punta Gorda and at the Ponce De Leon Park. Named after the famed explorer it is a peaceful park lying along the Gulf of Mexico that has an excellent planked trail that loops for a nice distance into and out of the mangrove wildness that surrounds the park. But, as you might think, I had come searching for something a bit more towards left field. Here there is an actual historic sign “First White Man Killed in North American” – I kid you not. On May 24, 1513 a group of DeLeon’s men were trading with the Caloosa tribe and things got a bit tense.
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APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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A fight broke out and the first Spanish shot was heard in the New World and with men dead and down the local tribe feathered a Spanish sailor named deScotto “Fortunato” Moreno with arrows, killing him and making him the first European “white” man killed in North America. For some reason Florida did not mention anything in detail about the first “natives” killed by the Spaniards. Isn’t that always the way? Just east of Bradenton you will find what was named by forbes.com as one of the “Most Unusual Restaurants in the World” and Al Roker named one of the “Top 5 Weirdest Restaurants in America” – The Linger Lodge. Big Al (well not so big anymore) would be a man to trust on this call so I vectored to the swamps along the Bradenton River and the part RV camp part very cool restaurant. The Linger Lodge certainly was worth the small detour that day and as I rolled in, a gully washer of a thunderstorm followed and it was a mad dash into an eatery and the dozens of critters that you will find lingering in there. The Linger Lodge is a great bit of old Florida and the outdoor seating, when not raining, has a really superb vista of the river – one of the nicest in the region. In addition to their gumbo they serve up frog legs, superior wings and a
great all around burger too. Their homemade chips and pulled pork was quite good as well. But, the gumbo and wings was not my reason to travel to this hidden place, as the Linger Lodge has one serious collection of local stuffed animals, both real and imagined - or are they? The Jackalope (fairly common) sits in its case not far from a Blue Billed Ortholock (fairly uncommon). The Alaskan Fur Fish is also on display. There is also a 16-foot alligator that is said to have locked onto the leg of a local, Mike Bennant, who was dragged under the dark and murky waters of the Braden River. Brought under by one leg, Bennant reached for his favorite hunting knife he called “Big Boy” and fought against the large Apex predator….. The lodge swears that gator is the one now hanging above their fireplace. How could a man win in such a battle, you ask? Well, it helps that Mike Bennant was “ Gator Wrasslin’ Champ of the State of Florida. Is it a true story or just another tale from Mysterious America. That is for you to judge, but the gator is very impressive! I could find no better, or fun for that matter, way to finish up this Mystery Tour of South Florida than to spend a Sunday afternoon on the rider-friendly island of Siesta Key.
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SUNDAY, AUGUST 16th
TOWN & COUNTRY CYCLE CENTER 115 Route 23N • Hamburg NJ • 973-875-2111
Join us for a 200-mile tri-state self-guided romp through New Jersey, New York + Pennsylvania
Experience the full line of Kawasaki motorcycles, sales and service we have to offer.
START: Yetter’s Diner • 89 US 206, Augusta, NJ SIGN-IN: 9 -10:30am END: Chatterbox Drive-In • Rtes. 94/206, Augusta, NJ
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Optional: $10/bike donation to Backroads’ Little Free Libraries
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015 Located west of the city of Sarasota and just south of Long Boat Key this small barrier island is a very hip and cool place to be – especially on a Sunday. Siesta Key does get a bit crowded, but compared to its more upscale and snooty neighbor St. Armands, Siesta has a far more earthy and laidback feel to it. More Key Westish than West Hollywood (CA that is). The little bit of mystery here are the people themselves. Sure, you have your snow birders and riders from the northeast that have flocked to Siesta for the winter, but there is a large bohemian crowd on this island too and each Sunday many come together on the public beach. Along with them come musical instruments, hula hoops, costumes, smiling faces and drums…lots of drums! Here, on what has been called the #1 Beach in the USA, with sand as white as you can imagine the masses come and the beating begins. This community drum circle at Siesta Key Beach plays every Sunday here in Siesta Key, about an hour or two before sunset. Anyone wanting to play is welcome and you will find all sorts of humanity, young old, native or traveler in the large circle – playing, dancing, hula hooping or just having fun. The belly dancer got my particular attention with her cocoa skin, Lebanese features, serpentine moves and angel wing tattoos on her back. The Sunday drum circle is its own phenomenon which began spontaneously years ago and now has a life of its own. It is a ritual, a part of Siesta Key that makes it so special. Watching the sun starting its decent into the Gulf of Mexico I felt that I had had enough and there was no better way to end this Magical Mystery Tour than the drums of Siesta Key. As the sun settled, fading into the gulf waters, the drumming got more feverish and louder. It seemed to envelope the entire beach and then, green flash or not, the sun was gone and the drumming stopped.
Page 43 After lost legends, tiny post offices, gators, snakes, herons, failed hollowearth cults and odd restaurants I was done and knew, like Tooter Turtle, what was next. I could hear my old sage, Mr. Wizard, in the back of my head. Drizzle, drazzle, druzzle, drome – time for this one to come home. I looked back over my shoulder and begin the trek north. O’Life out! Clewiston Inn • 108 Royal Palm Ave, Clewiston, FL 800-749-4466 • www.clewistoninn.com Rooms range from $89.99/night Joanie’s Blue Crab Café 39395 Tamiami Trail East, Ochopee, FL 239-695-2682 • www.joaniesbluecrabcafe.com Closed Wednesdays Dave Shealy’s Skunk Ape Headquarters 40904 Tamiami Trail East, Ochopee, FL 239-695-2275 • www.skunkape.biz Koreshan State Historic Site 3800 Corkscrew Rd, Estero, FL 239-992-0311 • $4 entry fee open year round 8am to dusk Ponce de Leon Park 3400 Ponce de Leon Parkway, Punta Gorda, FL Linger Lodge Restaurant & Campground 7205 85th St Ct East, Bradenton, FL 941-755-2757 • Sun-Thurs 11:30-close; Sat-Sun 11am-10pm Siesta Key Drum Circle Siesta Key Public Beach between lifeguard stands 3 + 4, about an hour before sunset. Bring your tie-dye and imagination.
APRIL 2015 • BACKROADS
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PRODUCT REVIEW
OLYMPIA MOTOSPORTS EXPEDITION JACKET AND PANT
Proper riding gear can open up a can of worms among riders. While some see a pair of high top sneakers and long sleeve shirt as being overdressed, others, no matter the temperature, will be covered head to toe. Case in point; on a recent trek to the middle of the earth, Ecuador to be specific, one in our group chose to wear a leather jacket, half helmet and over-the-ankle boots. Granted, the weather in this part of the world can be very unpredictable, ranging from hot, humid and sultry to a windy, cold rain, all in the same day. The others in our group had gear that would cover those situations. I do think that this fellow had some food for thought for future riding gear choices. Before we left, I received Olympia’s Expedition Jacket and Pant. With said climate changes that might occur, I thought this combination would be just right. Just reading the blurb Olympia puts on their website pretty much summed it up: ‘As global touring and dual sport riders, we constantly face harsh conditions brought on by ever-changing micro climates and weather patterns.’ That’s Ecuador to a tee. The Expedition jacket utilizes a three layer systems design; the outer jacket constructed in 500 and 2000 denier Cordura, the inner Thermolite insulated liner for warmth and the waterproof rain liner of hi-viz yellow and black, which can be worn either under or over the outer jacket. The outer jacket, cut in a form flattering hour glass shape, has many adjustment points at the arms, torso and hips to give it the right fit for each wearer. It sports 3M Scotchlite reflective piping at the front, sides and back for extreme visibility and offers five storage pockets, of decent size, plus an interior cell phone pocket (not quite big enough for my iPhone 5). The multi-seasonal versatility of the Expedition jacket comes into play when the Mega Vent Panel Systems are deployed. With venting panels covering the jacket, you can convert this solid body garment to adjust the airflow from trickle to full-on wind, all lined with ballistic air mesh panels to keep the critters out. These panels stay attached to the jacket and fold neatly into self-storage pockets. There are vents on the chest, back and on arms to bring the cooling air directly to your sweaty skin while still offering sun protection and body armour – removable CE approved Motion Flex at elbows and shoulders as well as an articulated back protector. Finishing details are well attended, as the collar is framed with comfort
neoprene and a soft lining, the Velcro closures are long enough to stay put and all zippers feature pulls to help snug them closed. The rip stop nylon waterproof liner, with cool mesh lining, sports a knit hoodie with lower rubberized aqua barrier that is stowed, comfortably, in the collar. This puppy is a great feature, as worn under your helmet it keeps that inevitable trickle of water from making its way down your back. The waterproof liner has a zipper attachment to keep it in place and there is an 8” connecting zipper if you’d like to connect jacket to pants. I chose the black and gray color scheme, as I know this would be a dusty ride. The Expedition jacket is also offered in white and black and hi-viz yellow and black and sells for $429.99 in sizes xS – 3xL. The Expedition Pant, made to accompany the Expedition Jacket, is also constructed in 500-2000 denier Cordura fabric and features the same versatile Mega Vent Panel System on the front of the leg. Offered in sizes 4-18 and selling for $349.99, the fit is flattering, with a relaxed tailored form. They have a washable leather reinforcement panel from the inside thigh to hem bottom, making moving about the saddle a bit smoother, and comfort stretch knit panels at the back of the knees. There are four storage pockets for your stuff, two front, two back. (I’d love to see them use a large outer cargo pocket, similar to those on the men’s style, on the women’s, but that’s just my need for more storage.) As with the Expedition Jacket, the Pant have multiple adjustment areas at the waist and bottom hem, as well as room to be shortened if necessary. For added protection, there’s removable and adjustable height CE approved Motion Flex armour at the knees andremovable eVA compression foam at the hips. A matching hi-viz yellow and black rain liner pant keeps you dry whether worn under or over the outer shell. I found them to fit nicely and extremely comfortable. After 10 days of riding in temperatures from the low 40s to over 100 degrees, fog, rain and full on sunshine (pretty much most of the time), I can say that Olympia’s Expedition Jacket and Pant performed exactly as advertised. I was always comfortable, venting was easy to achieve while riding, I felt well protected and I looked marvelous. You can see Olympia’s full line of gear at www.olympiamotosports.com or at your nearest Olympia dealer. ~ Shira Kamil
BACKROADS • APRIL 2015
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973-875-2048 Norman Gross 946 Rte. 23 South For All Your Harley-Davidson Needs Since 1976 Sussex NJ 07461 Our Reputation Speaks for Itself 3 miles north of Sussex Borough
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Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. ©2014 Yamaha Motor Corporation. U.S.A. All rights reserved. • YamahaMotorsports.com
THE GOLD WING SERIES 40 YEARS OF SOLID GOLD.
The Gold Wing was destined to rule from the very beginning, with Honda dubbing the 1975 GL1000 the King of Motorcycles even before its introduction, predicting that the model would stand above all others. Today's GL1800 continues to serve as the benchmark against which all touring models are measured.
Gold Wing® F6B
210 Route 10 West • East Hanover, NJ
973-428-1735 www.Powersports.Honda.com Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri: 9am-6pm • Thur: 9am-8pm • Sat: 9am-5pm • SUNDAY: CLOSED - GONE RIDING powersports.honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. Gold Wing® is a trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2015 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. (3/15)