August 2010

2010 Vol. 16 No. 8

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AUGUST

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Americade 2010 • Adventures of Madeleine • Dog Days of Summer

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F E AT U R E S

FREE WHEELIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

SHIRA’S SUMERTIME ICE CREAM RIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 AMERICADE 2010 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 DOGS ON THE DELAWARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

THE MADELIENE ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

ON THE MARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

TURKEY, BULGARIS AND ROMANIA ON TWO WHEELS . . . . . . . . 42

INDUSTRY INFOBITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

THE BIRTHDAY RIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 MOTORCYCLING ADVENTURES IN THE PHILIPPINES . . . . . . . . . . 58

BACKLASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

PRODUCT REVIEWS PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 BIG CITY GETAWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors: Ken Aiken, Ralph Angelo, Jr, Adrian Blake, Christopher Bowling, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Burt Richmond, Mike Stackhouse, Dr. Seymour O’Life Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2010. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

TEST RIDES EVERY DAY THE SUN SHINES

Come by today and take yours for a spin

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

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AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

increased from $10,000 to $52,000 from 1995 to 2009, and then in December 2009 they demanded $102,000, double the already outrageous amount.

Brian Rathjen Why “outrageous”?

Well, the lot is officially closed to the public Monday through Friday in AMERICADE WOES early June so they would derive nearly $0 from that property if Americade At this year’s Americade we were bomwere not there. Furthermore, during Americade their campgrounds are all barded by rumors about the rally and its full, so forgetting the $46 million economic impact, even Department of future. Some said this was it - the last Americade. Others stated that the rally Environmental Conservation, the people in charge of the property, would be would be moving to another location, possibly another state. Still others said hurting their own income if Americade had to leave. the State of New York and Albany were gouging event founder Bill Dutcher Dutcher and Americade, in addition, have to spend over $100,000 makand were making the event cost prohibitive to him to run. ing the lot into a tradeshow and then tearing it all down a week later. And We went in search of Bill to get they have to totally indemnify NYS DEC as the lowdown on the entire issue. well as post a damage deposit, and always WHAT PART OF FILLING AN OTHERWISE What we found out is truly repair any damage to the lot and surrounding EMPTY TIME IN LAKE GEORGE beyond the pale. park.

DOESN’T THE DEC UNDERSTAND? For those of you who have been It appears that New York State sees heading to Lake George as many Americade as their Cash Cow, but anyone times as we have - this was our who knows the M/C biz, knows there are no 20th Americade - you know that cash cows left, including Americade. things have evolved and changed This year’s demand $102,000 demand over the years. “shrank” to merely $72,000 after a letter to Back in the mid-’90s Dutcher DEC’s Commissioner which pointed out approached the State of New York that the (lumpy, seagull-crap-covered, with a proposal to utilize the parkdrains in wrong direction) parking lot ing lot at Million Dollar Beach for should be free to the convention which proa giant outdoor vendor area. vides that $46 million shot in the arm, as At this time of year the parking well as a pro-Americade editorial in the lot was empty and they have never Albany Times Union. (Nonetheless, $72k is derived any income from that parkstill a 36% increase during an economic ing lot, other than the people who park there in the summer to swim in the depression) Their fee is slated to rise to about $87,000 next year. A local lake. Lake George is a deep and cold lake, so very few folks try to swim in motel owner has offered to cover the extra $15k but Americade still needs a it before the end of June. fair, multi-year contract in order to stay in NYS. How can you plan when In Bill’s words, “When I offered them $10,000 in 1994, they were you don’t know the price several years out? delighted with this found money.” He went on to tells us how the fees (Continued on Page 24)

FREE WHEELIN’

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

RIDING LIKE A VULCAN

Later on in this issue, you’ll read about a ride I had planned which went a bit awry. It certainly was nothing earth shattering, but it was enough to set me seething. As much as Brian tried to calm me down, I was going to be angry with myself until the cauldron bubbled out. From the moment I felt the heat rising, I knew way back in my brain that I wasn’t concentrating as I should on the task at hand, and that was piloting a motorcycle.

Having to ‘hit the highway’ when planning on meandering along the small country roads of NJ and PA, I completely ignored the speed limit, racing to get off the large tarmac as quickly as possible. With Brian’s voice in my helmet berating me for making bonehead passes and urging me to slow down, I just got angrier, all the time knowing that nothing good would come of this. Arriving at our destination, the balloon burst with the sight of a ‘closed’ sign and the boiling water rushed out of my head.

Typically, I have a very even-tempered attitude. I try my best to look on the bright side of life, as Monty Python puts it, and don’t get upset over things that I can’t change. Well, I obviously disregarded my own followings on this occasion. For a short ten-mile stretch of less-than-desirable roadway, I put myself, and those around me, in harm’s path.

Adopting a Vulcan demeanor while riding is a good thing. There are too many outside forces at work to let them get into your head, disrupting your concentration or just your particular train of thought at that moment. While stuck, on a hot steamy summer day, in a work zone while your body temperature is on the rise, try to keep your inner self in the cool zone. If that Soccer Mom happens to pull a pinhead move in front of you because she’s too busy talking/texting/disciplining her kids, be prepared by being aware and not getting lost in a daydream mode.

Recently, I’ve found myself poking around on my Garmin while I should be paying attention to what’s happening around me, simply because I’m at a slow pace on a very lightly traveled roadway and feel ‘at ease’ with the surroundings. I realize that for the past 20-30 seconds I have not been seeing what’s in front, behind or to the sides of where I am. Stupid move; lesson learned. If I’m no better than the texter in the car, how can I criticize?

Just as dangerous is becoming complacent with your surroundings. There are a number of byways and small roads around Backroads Central that we use for a short hop or quick lunch/errand ride. As much as I’d like to think that I know these roads like the back of my hand, there are always variables to be added to the equation. The slow farm vehicle pulling out in front of you, the many critters around this time of year, the impatient driver behind you sitting on your ass; Whatever the x-factor, if you are too busy in your own head, having a bad day and fuming about it, or fiddling with something that’s best left for when the bike is stopped, these things are ready and waiting to ruin your day. Take a deep breath, realize where and what you’re doing and put yourself in the right frame of mind.

Let’s take a look at emotions and how they may affect your riding. Of course anger, in any form, can completely shut off your reasoning abilities. But what about depression or sadness? These surely can close your eyes to what’s about you, as you are so caught up in your own funk that the outside world is a blur.

Happiness? I really can’t see anything wrong with riding while happy, other than your eyes may be closed due to the huge grin on your face. Try not to do that.

Try not to wear your emotions on your riding jacket sleeve. If you find yourself angry, upset, depressed, anxious or anything that might take your concentration away from your riding, turn the key to the left and take a moment. If something happens while you’re riding, find a peaceful stop to regroup. Your riding will be better for it and it might just stop something more awful from happening. To take some words from the best loved Vulcan ever to live, ‘Live Long and Prosper’ • dif-tor heh smusma.

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

LET’S GET SOME AIR

If you pay attention to the MotoGP Championship; that wild, incredibly exciting roadracing series that is truly the pinnacle of the sport, you no doubt are aware of Multi-time World Champion Valentino Rossi’s practice crash in Italy where he badly broke his right leg. Actually, even if you don’t pay attention to the series he still fractured his tibia, but he fortunately seems on the mend and will return to the saddle before year’s end. He’s a true competitor and a very charismatic character, and is handling the situation with his typical good cheer.

I mention this incident because this particular crash not only had huge ramifications for the ultimate points battle, but it also was interesting in that Rossi was wearing some serious state-of-the-art protective gear. Obviously he still broke his leg, but his Dainese leathers with an on-board air bag system apparently helped protect him from further injury, primarily in the neck and upper back region. Valentino said as much in a Q &A session conducted by his Fiat Yamaha Team communication’s manager: “I remember everything perfectly,” said Vali from his hospital bed. “I didn’t hit my head, I didn’t hit anything else. The airbag in my leathers worked very well and my helmet was just slightly scratched. I don’t have a single bruise! The problem was that I landed on my leg, and it was stuck under my body. If I had landed on my back it would have been different.”

The airbag system, which Dainese says they’ve been working on for a very long time, is designed a bit differently than some street systems that have been out for a while. Back in 2006 I got to play around with a vest and jacket from a company called AireTronics, which had an airbag with a really simple deployment system. The airbag gets inflated by classic old CO2 cartridges, which do their thing if you leave the motorcycle without unclipping the jacket from its tethering cable (whether you crash or just forget to deactivate it when you get off the bike. Oops). If you are separated from the bike, the tether simply yanks a cable that punctures the cartridge and the vest/jacket inflates, hopefully before you hit the terra firma. This is arguably

too slow, and a bit crude, yes, but still a start in the right direction I think. I don’t know if AireTronics is around anymore, but there is a company called Armored Air Jackets that looks to have a very similar product line.

The Dainese D-Air System is a very different creature. The company started experimenting back in 1995 with a system that was deployed from the helmet, and while this was never put into operation it really was useful in showing how complicated the problem is, and how many different disciplines come into play on the engineering front to make this work. Key objectives include super-fast deployment (like the airbags in cars), and a compact design that in no way interferes with the rider’s mobility, comfort or aerodynamic profile. After it goes off it needs to be fast and easy to remove (but not until the rider or safety worker wants it removed), and most importantly it has to have a deployment system that is completely reliable, only goes off when it’s supposed to, and is physically independent from the bike.

As of now, Dainese has a competition system for their professional riders that is completely self-contained and uses sophisticated sensors (including accelerometers) to signal when the bag needs to pop out of the suit and do its thing. A similar street version has sensors that also have to be placed on the motorcycle, but to the best of my knowledge there’s still no physical tether to the motorcycle. While the technology is still in the early stages of real-world testing in MotoGP and other race series, the early incidents where these bags have been deployed have been quite promising. This will be a really fascinating thing to watch as over time the complexity, weight and (most important for the likes of us) the cost should come down dramatically and we should see street applications that are dramatically better than what’s out there now. Dainese has pointed out that with all the considerable engineering complexity of a viable on-body airbag system, there are even less obvious hurdles to overcome such as the fact that “there are laws and regulations to be respected, such as those governing the transport of explosive materials, for example.”

Of course, when we have so many idiots who dress like they’re watering the lawn instead of riding a motorcycle, that’s something we have to work on as well. Let’s do our best, brothers and sisters of the loyal order of ATGATT. The gear just keeps getting better if only folks would wear it.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

DOCTOR Z

As the Pop Tart sang, “Oops, I did it again.”

For several months, I’ve been reliving my lost youth on a Suzuki DR-200 dual-sport, and having a ball doing so. A couple Sundays ago, I was chatting with Dangerous Dan and a few of the boys after a ride. I was covered in the drying, glorious trappings of a trailside mudspa treatment applied by a cross-rutted lowside into a giant puddle. After a couple creek crossings, the sun-warmed muck felt really good and I had to resist the urge to wallow there like a fat elk, but I digress. During the postmortem, the talk turned to bikes (surprise) and I complimented Dangerous on his Suzuki DR-Z400, saying I’d like to have one some day.

“Well,” said he, “I looked at a really clean 2003 DR-Z400 a couple days ago. Are you ready to stop talking smack and do something about it?” I really should have been more specific with that “some day” statement, but Dan’s words were the equivalent of a double-dog dare and no man can let such a challenge go unanswered. The next thing I knew, a trip was arranged to inspect the beast at a dealership with disgustingly convenient after-work hours that effectively quashed any of my excuses.

It gets worse: massive research ensued through the “Oracle of Google” and various enthusiast web sites until I could quote the “FAQs” of several verbatim. I knew which bits need sealing, which ones to Loc-tite, the ramifications of various cam-chain tensioners, the best gearings, the recommended tires, and the specific gravity of the coolant. OK, I didn’t really know that last one, but I was in an information feeding frenzy that would have made a school of sharks envious. Most importantly, I was armed with book values from several different sources.

But wait, there’s more. After doing exhaustive electronic research, I called the dealer and asked a few pointed questions. He supplied the correct answers and before I knew it, a tentative offer erupted from my lips. “I’ll have to talk to the sales manager” came the well-rehearsed reply. It wasn’t ten minutes before my cell phone delivered the acceptance of the offer, a

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sure indication I should have gone lower, but it was fair. I was in possession of enough faculties to make it contingent upon a successful inspection and test ride; however, I had high confidence it was a fine specimen because Dangerous is not only a great rider, but an ace mechanic.

I could barely contain myself at work the next day. After a short trip to the bank to make a substantial withdrawal from my wife’s account, I raced off to meet Dangerous, Tiny Tim, and South Park Josh for the 60mile ride to the dealer. DD and TT were resplendent in TT’s yellow EML sidecar rig attached to a BMW GS, as the plan was for me to ride the new steed home while Dangerous piloted my SV-650. I was already armed with insurance and a transfer tag, because when we’re on a bike acquisition mission, we have our logistics wired tight. In fact, if we knew there was a bike that we wanted stored in Bin Laden’s garage, we’d not only have his address, but he’d be dead right now.

A spirited ride over one of our favorite roads brought us to the dealership and I went right to work with a flashlight, checking all the things that needed to be checked and a few more. An effervescent test ride brought me back with a smile and a willingness to fork over the missus’ hard-earned for my latest two-wheeled mischief machine. I don’t think the salesman ever had a deal go quite so quickly and we were soon off to a Greek place for the sustenance required to get us home. No pizza tastes better than one shared with riding buddies right after acquisition of a new machine.

The ride home was also spirited, with the added entertainment of seeing Tiny “flying the chair” as the sidecar no longer had six-plus feet of Dangerous for ballast. The contrast between the SV and the DR was readily apparent, as the DR felt like I was riding a skyscraper by comparison, but the Trail Wings were up to the task and the thumper’s torque was a real smile-maker. Now it’s time to “personalize” her with a few choice changes designed to make her a better woods-thrasher. Hopefully, they’ll be just what Doctor Z ordered.

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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INDUSTRY INFOBITES Due to extenuating circumstances the Gooch’s Garlic Run took a new turn of events this year. The Blue Knights NJ Chapter IX had not been issued a parking permit for New York City for the rain date of June 23rd. Although the run would not be riding into New York City, they did gather at the Rockaway Townsquare Mall.

This event has always been to raise money for sick children and that is what we still intend to do. With the help of all of members, the Rockaway Townsquare Mall, Rider Insurance, Hilton Garden Inn, many vendors and a DJ, they did the best they could for an event that almost didn’t happen.

There were vendors selling food and goods and the music was playing.

They introduced the children they are helping and there was plenty of time to check out all the motorcycles on this side of the river. New York can’t and won’t.... hold us back from helping those in need. The motto this year was... come early, leave late.

Stay tuned for what’s to become of the Gooch’s Garlic Run.

NEWS

GOOCH’S GARLIC NONE?

PBTF

FROM THE INSIDE

154 COLLEGE SCHOLARSHIPS 2010-2011 ACADEMIC YEAR

AWARDS

This fall, 154 students affected by brain tumors will attend college with the help of a Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation(r) scholarship.

One of those students is Jeremy, a rising sophomore at Washington University in St. Louis. “For me, college is not just the next step after high school, but the gateway towards achieving my passion,” he says. “From my experience having a brain tumor, the way I see to truly live life to the fullest is to give back to others.”

Giving back is a common theme among scholarship recipients. Many of them say they want to work in medicine, social work, public health or the nonprofit sector.

This year’s recipients include students from 39 states, from Hawaii to Maine, who plan to attend vocational schools, community colleges and universities across the United States.

The PBTF has awarded a total of 787 scholarships since 2002. The program is funded in part by the Tim and Tom Gullikson Family Support Fund at the PBTF. For more information or to donate, please visit www.rideforkids.org.

FOR

9TH ANNUAL KILLINGTON CLASSIC MOTORCYCLE TOURING RALLY EXTEND AN INVITATION TO VENDOR

Long Island KAWASAKI 67 North Broadway • Route 107 • Hicksville, NY

www.LIKawasaki.com • 516-935-6969

The Killington Classic is a low cost, great way to reach a highly targeted audience. With early signs of big growth (registration is up 100% since last year) and marketing plans just heating up, it’s expected that 1,000 riders, their families and friends to attend.

Event planners are seeking vendors who want to reach out and support the touring lifestyle, providing riders with unique goods and services.

The Killington Classic will not be charging a space fee. In lieu of the fee, they are requiring that an In-Kind donation in the form of a product, good or service totaling $50 or more be submitted. If you have any questions please email brandeekozlar@killingtontown.com or call 802-422-2105.

Make sure you visit the Killington Classic www.killingtonclassic.com website to fill out a vendor application.

CALIFORNIA LAWMAKERS BACK EPA COMPLIANT REQUIREMENT On June 28, the Committee on Transportation voted 8-4 to approve Senate Bill 435, introduced by Sen. Fran Pavley (D-Oxnard-Los Angeles), which would make it illegal to ride a motorcycle on the road built on, or after, Jan. 1, 2011, that doesn’t display a federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) label certifying the exhaust system meets sound emissions standards.

Riders caught riding model year 2011 or newer motorcycles without this stamp would be issued “fix it” tickets by law enforcement officers.

The measure now goes to the Assembly Appropriations Committee for further consideration.

“Many EPA labels are very difficult to locate on motorcycles,” said AMA Western States Representative Nick Haris. “This proposed law could FOR RIDERS OF NEW MOTORCYCLES

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

lead to a flurry of tickets for motorcyclists who have legal exhaust systems on their machines with EPA labels that can’t be easily seen. It’s unreasonable to expect a law enforcement officer to easily locate an EPA label, and it’s simply unfair to expect a motorcycle owner to partially dismantle an exhaust system alongside the road to prove the label exists.

“Requiring that a motorcycle display a readily visible EPA label isn’t the correct way to address concerns about excessive motorcycle sound,” he added. “The only objective way to determine whether a motorcycle complies with sound laws is for properly trained personnel to conduct sound level tests using calibrated meters and an agreed-upon testing procedure.”

Haris suggested that concerned California motorcyclists contact their state lawmakers and urge them to reject Senate Bill 435. To do so, go to AmericanMotorcyclist.com > Rights > Issue & legislation and select “CA” in the drop down menu.

This past issue of AAA magazine, AAA World, featured a two-page spread on motorcycle safety, learning to ride and how to be a safer car driver around motorcycles. Thanks for the nod, AAA, but you could have chosen a better pseudonym than Alan ‘Rider’.

THUMBS UP

TO

AAA

10TH ANNUAL POP’S RUN SUNDAY, AUG. 22

In the ten years of this event, it’s managed to raise over $37,000 for the Amyloid Research Team at Boston University School of Medicine. This money has allowed them to purchase laboratory equipment and fund research for the causes and treatment of Amyloidosis.

Amyloidosis is a group of diseases in which abnormal proteins accumulate in organs of the body. There are several distinct types of amyloidosis. One type is localized in the brain and is known as Alzheimer’s Disease. Other types affect the whole body and over 3,000 persons are diagnosed with those types each year. The most common systemic type is a bone marrow disease that can be treated with chemotherapy and stem cell transplantation with favorable results; other types can be hereditary and new treatments are being developed for these. While great progress is being made in research toward finding more effective treatments and a cure, more work needs to be done. Awareness is important as early diagnosis allows patients to be eligible for the best treatment options.

Please join the run on Sunday, August 22, 2010. All proceeds from “Pop’s Run” go to the Amyloid Research Team at Boston University School of Medicine. For more information visit www.popsrun.org.

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AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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BACKLASH

LETTERS

Brian, Ater reading your Free Wheelin’ columns in the May (The Raid) and June (Signs, Signs, Everywhere Signs) issues of Backroads, I couldn’t agree with you more about the need for getting involved in motorcyclists’ rights. It’s already past the time that we can sit on the couch and do nothing. It’s not just coincidental that motorcyclists’ rights seem to be under attack, because they are. You correctly pointed out the great work being done at the national level by the AMA (American Motorcyclist Association) to reign in federal lawmakers and to advocate for riders’ rights. The AMA and also the MRF (Motorcycle Riders Foundation) both do fantastic work to protect the rights we motorcyclists hold so dearly. They both lobby our federal lawmakers for better and more fair laws affecting riders, and they both bring lawsuits against those who discriminate against motorcyclists. I believe that we should all belong to and support both of these fine organizations.

I also believe that all politics is local, and that as motorcycle riders we all need to take a proactive role in protecting our own rights. We are increasingly coming under attack not only from the federal level, but also from state and local levels.

For any of your readers who may not be aware of how ABATE works; first of all, the acronym stands for American Bikers Aimed Toward Education.

ABATE does the same kinds of work at the state level that the AMA and the MRF does at the national level. There is no national ABATE organization, so each state’s ABATE is completely independent of ABATE in other states.

Each state is autonomous, sets its own agenda and abides by its own set of bylaws. ABATE of the Garden State is dedicated to acting as a watchdog for all legislation coming out of Trenton that affects motorcyclists, and advocating for better training and education for all motorcyclists as well as increased awareness of motorcycles by other motorists. We are working hard to be all-inclusive no matter what brand or style of motorcycle you may ride.

South Jersey has had a strong ABATE presence for many years, but a lot of your readers may not be aware that there is now a growing and active

FW SPEER YAMAHA 7 Main Avenue • Passaic, NJ • www.speeryamaha.com • 973-778-6256

38th FOGGY MOUNTAIN RELIABILITY RUN • SUNDAY, AUG. 22 Sign up 9am • This is a PRO YAMAHA Sport Specialist Consumer Event

Gold Certified Professional rider depicted on a closed course. ATVs with engine sizes of 90cc or greater are recommended for use only by riders ages 16 years and older. Yamaha recommends that all ATV riders take an approved training course. For safety and training information, see your dealer or call the ATV Safety Institute at 1-800-887-2887. ATVs can be hazardous to operate. For your safety: Always avoid paved surfaces. Never ride on public roads. Always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing; never carry passengers; never engage in stunt riding; riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix; avoid excessive speed; and be particularly careful on difficult terrain. ©2009 Yamaha Motor Corp., U.S.A. Cypress, CA 90630.

EDITOR

chapter of ABATE in North Jersey. For the next few months, this group will be moving its meeting place to various North Jersey locations to give it a greater exposure to the riders in the northern part of the state. The next monthly meeting will be held at the Chatterbox on Bike Night, at 7:30 PM on Thursday, August 19. We would be very pleased if you and Shira and any of your interested readers would come and visit with us. We’ll be happy to explain our mission in detail and answer any questions about ABATE. As I said earlier, it is past the time when we can all just sit back and be passive about motorcycle rights. It is time to get involved to protect your passion! There is more to be discussed than there is room for here, so please come on out to the Chatterbox on August 19. We’d love to meet you.

Regards, Jim Parker Legislative Director, ABATE of the Garden State legislativedirector@gardenstateabate.org

Hi Brian, Having read your most recent Free Wheelin, I felt the inclination to write.

I have been riding for thirty-six years. I have never had anyone complain about the noise level emitted from my pipes (on any of the nine bikes that I have owned). Why? Because I feel personally responsible to show motorcyclists as individuals in the best light, who care about the communities in which they ride, the noise polution in their environment, riding safely and any other activity that is deemed disruptive by society.

I have total disdain for those in the motorcycling community who have to show-off their egos as being far bigger than their brains by riding with excessively loud pipes. The noise emitted by most aftermarket pipes just isn’t necessary! Loud Pipes DO NOT SAVE LIVES! They just piss ordinary people off! I am not suggesting that riders must go back to OEM pipes such as is now required in Denver and other cities. What I would like to see is common sense used in the pipes that are placed on motorcycles!

WE ARE A ONE-STOP SHOP • FINANCING • INSURANCE • ACCESSORIES • DEMO RIDES

Who’s Watching Out for Us

TO THE

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

If my noise is loud enough to bother my neighbors (either in a car or next door), then I am obviously being too loud! This also goes for people who insist on driving with Base Speakers that can be heard more than 50’ away from their vehicle and the pieces of crap cars driven by wannabe suburban hoody daddys with altered exhausts!

During the last several years, municipalities all over the US have made decisions to limit Motorcycle accessability to public and private property, severely fine those riding with loud aftermarket pipes (and demand OEM pipes be replaced), place regulations on Dirt Bike Exhausts within couty limits etc. This resentment, retaliation, regulation and discrimination is our own fault and due to a minority of inconsiderate assholes! It’s time to “Pipe Down!” as the old saying goes!

The problem with loud pipes is that, as Pogo said years ago, “We Have Met The Enemy and HE is us!”

Best Always to yourself and Shira Sheldon Braffman Reisterstown, Maryland Brian, I just received your latest issue and I read with interest the letter from one of your readers about the Chautauqua Institution. He and his wife had booked a B & B on the grounds and found out when they arrived that motorcycles were prohibited. He had quite a verbal battle with the B & B owner before he got his deposit returned. Chautauqua has a Facebook page and is filled with all kinds of B.S. about what a welcoming place it is, and a great source of spiritual renewal. Sounds like the kind of place motorcyclists should be boycotting! If you are in southwestern New York State, give this joint a wide berth, folks!

Bruce Brown

Dear Brian and Shira, Don’t know who wrote the “Riding with Kids” column, but it is good that someone decided to tackle it.

For years, we have been fuming at the little kiddies on bikes with no gear on, pink toes sticking out of Barbie sandals...

Even worse, what do you answer to a woman holding a baby/toddler (the size that does not really hold his own head up) who is asking if we make helmets in his size? Or the parent who wants his kid to try a helmet on, but it should be something cheap, “because he will grow out of it in a year or two”? The kid’s head is visibly not worth more than $100...

If the parents can’t buy the proper gear, they should not have the kid on the bike.

If the kid does not understand that he/she will get skinned alive in case of a fall while wearing a little tshirt, he/she should not be on the bike...

Big hug, Catherine

Hi Brian & Shira, I stepped out of my office to get some lunch and to dig into the June issue. I have to say, Tony Lisanti’s letter in Backlash is something alot of us have to agree with. Especially the part about what you do for us riders here in the North East. You guys are the best! Your publication does make our sport that much more enjoyable. Well said Tony!

I was very happy to see Jeffrey Kurtzman back in the pages of Backroads. I, as well as others, have missed his monthly column. What a great story ‘Decades’ is. Hope to one day find him again each month.

Regards, Mike Hoffmann Dear Folks: I just returned from a 6-day trip to Nova Scotia. This was prompted by an article which Shira provided me

WFO

Page 13

from years back. Your publication was very helpful on planning the trip. The Cabot Trail is a ride that everyone, especially in the Northeast, should complete. The scenery was superb with winding up and down hills next to the ocean where dolphin play. Lobster in any form is the highlight at dinner or lunch. June is just before the “tourist” season begins so motels were cheap and plentiful. The temperatures were 50 in am up to 73 in pm with not a cloud in the sky until the fog rolls in about sundown. We rode the trail both directions. Clockwise one day then counter clockwise the next. We returned by taking the ferry to Prince Edward Island (no toll) for a slight change of scenery with farms and beautiful flowers everywhere.

Thanks again for the help. Your publication is fantastic. Customer service is terrific!

Sincerely, Harry Weber Harry, We’re glad you had a great time. Nova Scotia is a great place to ride and it seems you covered a lot of it!

YOU OWE ME $$$

A couple issues back you did a little piece about Paint Bank, Virginia.

Last month my wife and I were visiting nearby Alderson, West Virginia, home of the federal lockup where Martha Stewart called home for awhile.

We had a little spare time and decided to ride over to Paint Bank ( approx.

(Continued on Page 24)

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Page 14

G R E AT A L L A M E R I C A N D I N E R R U N EVERYBODY MUST GET SCONED Bill Heald

292 ROUTE 169, SOUTH WOODSTOCK, CT 860-963-7040 • WWW.MRSBRIDGESPANTRY.COM

MRS. BRIDGES PANTRY

One of the greatest pleasure about riding to lunch, is riding to lunch to a place you found by accident. I first discovered Mrs. Bridges Pantry a few years ago when I was visiting Putnam, Connecticut, on a very mundane DMV errand (registering an Abarth Zagoto Double Bubble, no, wait: it was a Ford pickup). Putnam, nestled as it is in the quiet corner of NE Connecticut, is a really cool little town that had this amazing little shop at the end of Main Street.

Mrs. Bridges Pantry was a source for all things British, including all kinds of cool trinkets, authentic food, some seriously dedicated knitting practitioners, and most important of all: lots and lots of excellent teas.

tasty places to take your bike

But, before I knew it, it was gone. “Isn’t that the way of things?” I mourned at the time. Little did I know, they weren’t vanishing at all. They were just moving to South Woodstock and ultimately getting new ownership. Around 1992, Mrs. Bridges Pantry (named after the cook in the British classic Upstairs Downstairs) was created by Veronica Harris and Diana Jackson. Today, this excellent lunch stop is owned and operated by Pamela Spaeth and Susan Swenson. Sue is originally from Staffordshire, England, and along with her friend Pam was a regular customer of the Pantry and decided to go for it when it was put up for sale. They’ve done a terrific job of keeping the place much as it was when it was back in Putnam, and the new locale is found in the heart of some excellent, picturesque riding country.

So, what’s for lunch?

The Pantry has a really interesting menu, that (obviously) put the focus on U.K. cuisine but there are American-style sandwiches as well. I have a

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

particular jones for the steak and kidney pie, but there are a host of very Anglo-centric delights like Scotch Eggs, tea sandwiches, Spaghetti on Toast, Baked Beans on toast, dang, I think they may put anything you want on toast should you desire it. If you are a person who loves a proper British Tea (and I’m finding I am such a person-having a new Triumph has nothing to do with it. Much.), they totally have you covered. Real scones, real cream, real jams; a word of caution: I have overdone tea, and even with all the fine caffeine I have been badly “sconed” after a visit and have required a brief nap before jumping on the bike. I know I shouldn’t get so sconed, but. . .

Speaking of the tea, they have a vast menu of teas that is stunning to behold, and so huge in scope that it’s a tough chore to figure out what is the perfect choice on the day.

I love this place. The tearoom itself is on the smallish side, which is fine as you can dine al fresco as I always do on their porch. The food is unique as is the place, and the folks are pretty fantastic. It’s also a great ride to get there, not matter which direction you’re coming from. And a tour of the place with all the great British products available (including candy bars that are delicious) is all part of the experience. Carpe Tea-um!

Mrs. Bridges Pantry is located at 292 Route 169, South Woodstock, CT (if using GPS the address is 292 Somers Turnpike).

Page 15

Rip & Ride® • MRS. BRIDGES PANTRY 292 ROUTE 169, SOUTH WOODSTOCK, CT• 860-963-7040 • WWW.MRSBRIDGESPANTRY.COM DOWNLOAD 125 O/W GPS ROUTE HERE: www.sendspace.com/file/5bs72v

START: MARCUS DAIRY 5 SUGAR HOLLOW RD, DANBURY CT NORTH ON SUGAR HOLLOW RD RIGHT ONTO PARK AVE RIGHT ONTO W WOOSTER ST LEFT - STAY ON W WOOSTER ST RIGHT ONTO RTE. 53 LEFT ONTO TRIANGLE ST BEAR RIGHT ONTO NEWTOWN RD BEAR RIGHT - NEWTOWN RD/RTE. 6 LEFT-STAY ON RTE. 6/CHURCH HILL RD LEFT ONTO GLEN RD CROSS RIVER-LEFT ONTO RIVER RD RIGHT ONTO PURCHASE BROOK RD BEAR RIGHT ONTO STILLSON RD LEFT ONTO RTE. 172 CROSS RTE. 67 ONTO TRANSYLVANIA RD RIGHT ONTO RTE. 317 BEAR RIGHT ONTO HOLLOW RD GET ON RTE. 6 SOUTH EXIT ONTO RTE. 64 EAST LEFT ONTO RTE. 188 RIGHT ONTO WHITTMORE RD/RTE. 188 RIGHT ONTO RTE. 63 LEFT ONTO RTE. 68 - CROSS RIVER LEFT ONTO RTE. 70 LEFT ONTO RTE. 71 RIGHT ONTO GYPSY LANE LEFT ONTO RTE. 5 RIGHT ONTO E. MAIN ST GET ON RTE. 66 NORTH/EAST

CROSS RIVER RIGHT ONTO RTE. 17 LEFT - STAY ON RTE. 17 RIGHT ONTO HOPEWELL RD RIGHT ONTO CHESTNUT HILL RD STRAIGHT ONTO QUARRY RD LEFT ONTO RTE. 83 RIGHT ONTO RTE. 6/44 - MIDDLE TPKE E. LEFT ONTO CEDAR MILL RD RIGHT ONTO VALLEY FALLS RD LEFT-THEN RIGHT ONTO HATCH HILL RD LEFT ONTO CEDAR SWAMP RD STRAIGHT ONTO GEHRING RD LEFT ONTO GRANT HILL RD RIGHT ONTO METCALF RD STRAIGHT ONTO ANDERSON RD STRAIGHT ONTO BAXTER RD STRAIGHT ONTO ANTHONY RD LEFT ONTO S. RIVER RD RIGHT ONTO RTE. 74 LEFT ONTO JARED SPARKS RD LEFT-THEN RIGHT ONTO TINKERVILLE RD LEFT ONTO FERMIER RD RIGHT ONTO RTE. 320 STRAIGHT ONTO RTE. 89 RIGHT ONTO EASTFORD RD/TURNS TO WESTFORD RD STRAIGHT ONTO OLD COLONY RD RIGHT ONTO ROCKY HILL RD LEFT ONTO RTE. 171 RIGHT ONTO RTE. 169 AND MRS. BRIDGES PANTRY

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 16

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M Y S T E R I O U S

AMERICA

THE JACKS AND WHITES THE RAMAPOUGH MOUNTAIN INDIANS

New Jersey is full of folklore and legend. From the Jersey Devil to the Hookerman; Backroads’ home state has so much to wonder about.

For years now I have heard tales of a group of people - a community in the Ramapo Mountains that almost live in a world of their own.

Pejoratively called the Jackson Whites, they are said to live along the border of New Jersey and New York, near Ringwood and Hillburn.

Much has been said and written about these folk, but I took it upon myself to take a ride up along the border mountains to see just what really is up there.

I had read stories of dark-skinned people rushing the cars of strangers, of violence threatened and occurring. Tales of social oddities and other things not deemed the norm in today’s society.

But, maybe a little history is in order to clear up fact from fiction.

The original people in these mountains were made up of Lenni Lenape and Tuscarora Indians.

During the Revolutionary War, as battles raged in Manhattan and surrounding areas, Hessian soldiers and people of Dutch decent with no means of returning home and seeking a safe haven, headed across the northern part of New Jersey.

Deemed British sympathizers they were constantly harassed and took to raiding crops, doing whatever was necessary in order to survive.

Eventually they made there way past what is now Oakland and into the Ramapo Mountains where they found a region that was free of hostility towards them and it was here they settled down.

At this time the British Army command at New York contracted with a Colonial sea captain named Jackson to bring some 3,500 prostitutes recruited in the cities of England to New York to serve the garrison.

The story goes that the original 20 ships floundered in a storm and many of the women were lost, but Jackson, being a businessman simply sailed the remaining ships to the West Indies and brought in black women slaves to fill the missing ranks of prostitutes.

These women became know as Jackson’s Whites and Jackson’s Black - depending on the skin color.

They were kept in a pasture in what is now Greenwich Village until the British fled New York and the women, now suddenly free and fearing for their lives, fled the city and headed north towards the Ramapo mountains where they heard there was a haven for Tory refugees.

Here they mixed with and married the Hessian and natives and the resulting stew of humanity became known as the Jacks (freed women) and Whites (Hessians). This eventually became the Jackson Whites.

Back then they were despised by the neighbors in the valleys either for (Continued on Page 19)

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 17

Rip & Ride® • THE JACKS DOWNLOAD GPS ROUTE

START: BRANCHVILLE, NJ

HERE:

AND

WHITES

www.sendspace.com/file/sze802

TAKE CR 519 NORTH BEAR RIGHT AT CR 629 RIGHT AT CR 629 LEFT AT HYATT RD. STRAIGHT AT KILMAS RD.

LEFT AT RIDGE RD. LEFT AT CR 1 RIGHT AT RACKETTS RD. RIGHT AT BERGERONS RD. LEFT AT RIDGE RD. STRAIGHT AT SOUTH PLANK RD. RIGHT AT CR 93

STRAIGHT AT RTE. 17A CROSS GREENWOOD LAKE RIGHT AT TEN EYKE AVE. RIGHT AT STERLING RD. STRAIGHT ON EAST SHORE RD. LEFT AT CR 511 LEFT AT BEECH RD.

BEAR LEFT AT DENNIS PHILLIPS RD. RIGHT AT NEILSON RD. BEAR LEFT AT CR 519 NORTH RIGHT AT RTE. 23 SOUTH LEFT AT GORGE RD.

LEFT AT CR 12 RIGHT AT CR 37 RIGHT AT CR 42 LEFT AT CR 6 RIGHT AT CR 68

BECOMES DIRT (NOW YOU’RE GETTING THE IDEA) U-TURN BACK TO 511 LEFT AT MARGARET KING AVE. LEFT AT MILLIGAN DR.

LEFT AT CR 651 BEAR LEFT AT CLOVE RD. RIGHT AT MOORE RD. RIGHT AT MT. SALEM RD. LEFT AT GOODRICH RD. RIGHT AT MINISINK TPKE.

RIGHT AT RTE. 17A LEFT AT ACKERMAN RD. LEFT AT CR 13 RIGHT AT WISNER RD. BEAR RIGHT AT UPPER WISNER RD. BEAR LEFT AT PUMPKIN HILL RD.

RIGHT AT VAN DUNK LN. HERE BE THE RAMAPOUGH MOUNTAIN INDIANS

STOP BY GEORGE’S WINE SHOP FOR SOME WINE & CHEESE FOR LATER ON

BEAR RIGHT AT CANNON MINE RD. RIGHT AT PETERS MINE RD NOW SKEEDADDLE OUT OF THERE

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 18

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

W E ’ R E O U T TA H E R E Mike Stackhouse

THE JOLLY DRAYMAN PUB AT THE BRIAR LEA 150 MAYVILLE ROAD • BETHEL, ME 04217 877-311-1299 • WWW.JOLLYDRAYMANPUB.COM ROOMS: $99-$159/NIGHT INCLUDE FULL BREAKFAST

Character, ambiance, whatever you call the “thing” that makes a place very special, the Briar Lea-Jolly Drayman has it in spades. The summer found me with a new job and my vacation time down to zip from 7 weeks off to ride. That meant I spent what riding time I had close to home. This didn’t give me the opportunity to ride far and wide writing of exotic places off the beaten path but figured out, as Brian and Shira have done with their “Big City Getaways”, there are great places to write about in my own back yard.

This brings me back to my favorite haunt and all around great place, The Jolly Drayman pub-Briar Lea Inn. Located on Route 2-26 in Bethel, Maine, The Drayman is run by husband and wife, Richard and Jenn Fredricks. The Fredricks’ know what an English pub is all about as England is where Jenn called home and they ran a pub over there.

The sign by the road says, “Guinness Is Good”. And it is. However, that’s not the only thing they have on tap. The Old Speckled Hen, Smithwicks and various others, including cask-conditioned ale are palette pleasers. While it would be easy to say, “we’re only here for the beer” (the bike is parked and

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

you’re spending the night there, correct?) the food really sets the pub apart from others. Whether it’s traditional Bangers and Mash, fantastic beer battered Fish and Chips or English pub style Shepard’s Pie, everyone should be able to find something that fits their tastes. The Wellies (filet mignon wrapped in a mushroom sauce and baked in a crust) are one of our favorites.

Other entrees include curried dishes and pub sandwiches. Like I said, about anything you could want.

As good as all the food and drink are, it’s the comfortable atmosphere that keeps me going back. At the 1840s inn, you can sit in the pub, the dining room or on the couches in the sitting room. The couches are a favorite place to hoist a pint and take in the Swamp Donkeys when they play there.

(Picture modern pop songs done Celtic style) An outside deck is also available to sit back and enjoy the evening. Combine all this and a good time should be had by all.

So, should you find yourself in the Mahoosuc mountain region of Maine, be sure to drop by the inn and say hi. They’re motorcycle friendly (haven’t kicked me out yet anyways....) and there are tons of great rides in the area.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 19

(Contnued from Page 16)

having been British sympathizers, for their mixed blood, or for being Black, or Indian, or a combination of it all. From roughly 1800 on, the Jackson Whites had little to do with the world outside their Ramapo Mountains retreat and the few towns and villages they had managed to build.

Their largely Dutch surnames, de Groot, de Fries, van der Donck, and Mann, in all their variant spellings, are among the oldest in the countryside and predate the Revolutionary War. Today the state of New Jersey officially recognizes the Ramapough people to be Indians. “Be it resolved by the General Assembly of the State of New Jersey that the Ramapough Mountain People of the Ramapough Mountains of Bergen and Passaic counties, descendants of the Iroquois and Algonquin nations, are hereby designated by the State of New Jersey as the Ramapough Indians.” New York has a bill pending to recognize the Ramapough people as Native Americans.

Personally I questioned some of this, so a ride up to the area was in order.

Along this area, near Ringwood I found a few roads that turned to dirt and along here a few very old houses with Dutch names on the mailboxes.

Following a hunch I rode up Stag Hill Road and Van Dunk Lane, and here I dare say I found what I was looking for. A small closed off community, with small groups of people here and there, mostly very dark and certainly not Swedish.

I have ridden in a number of towns and communities, but this time I felt all eyes upon me, as if I was an intruder, which I guess I was. I certainly was not welcome, but other than some glaring stares I was passed unmolested.

Perhaps years ago this burg was home to Jacks and Whites, but today I like to think of them as just other Americans and the area is just like any other region in the United States. In a Hispanic section you’ll see Hispanics. In an Asian section you’ll meet Asians. Here in the Ramapo Mountains you just might meet the Ramapough Mountain Indians - it’s all part of Mysterious America.

Our Rip & Ride to this region starts in Branchville, New Jersey - where Backroads calls home and covers miles of superb roads. Some might be closed due to recent flooding, but we simply rode around the detours.

Please respect these people and tread lightly through their town.

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 20

B I G C I T Y G E TA W AY It’s summertime and what’s better than a road trip. Ralph Angelo has a great destination to get you on the road for a few days to some great history in motorcycling.

Ralph Angelo Jr

THE BARBER VINTAGE MOTORSPORTS MUSEUM 6030 BARBER MOTORSPORTS PARKWAY, LEEDS, AL 205-699-7275 • WWW.BARBERMUSEUM.ORG

Have you ever heard the old saying, “I feel like a kid in a candy store?”

Well that couldn’t have applied better to me in any way, shape or form, especially if my candy of choice is motorcycles. I recently spent a day in the Barber Motorsports Museum, and was amazed at the largest private collection of motorcycles in the United States, and some say the world.

George Barber is a motorcycle enthusiast who realized that nowhere in the world did there exist a truly comprehensive and extensive museum that captured motorcycling history from the past to the present, with all the var-

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ied brands displayed historically therein.

George Barber decided to change that. George first opened his museums doors in 1994, and then in 2003 his museum moved to a much larger, state of the art facilities including not only museum space but a racetrack which can be seen from the windows of the museum itself.

The entire facility is breathtaking! Motorcycles line racks from floor to ceiling of five different floors.

An amazing array of motorcycles encompass every floor, with one floor covering the beginnings of motorcycling including a re-created representation of the shed the first Harley-Davidsons were created in.

Make no mistake about it though; this is not a Harley only museum. Every marquee is represented here. Including Yamaha, BMW, Honda, Triumph, Moto-Guzzi, Kawasaki, Suzuki, MV Agusta, Ducati, as well as many, many

more obscure brands. Some are long gone; some are still in evidence today.

But understand this, no piece in this museum is in anything less then museum quality shape. There are some motorcycles, such as Gary Eagan’s Ducati that he crossed the country with in thirty-six hours that have been left

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 21

in ‘As is’ condition, but those are presented that way for historical significance.

Such is also the case with Jamie Hacking’s R6 that he rode to an AMA world championship in 2003.

One of the most amazing pieces to me was a custom chopper that was created by a High School class. Usually I’m not a custom chopper kind of motorcycle enthusiast, but the attention to detail and sheer quality of this motorcycle overwhelmed me. It was truly beautiful, and for high schoolers to have created it really says something about their eye for detail and commitment to this project.

There were motorcycles of every vintage including a brand new Triumph Bonneville in limited edition colors commemorating the fiftieth anniversary of the Bonneville.

One of the most intriguing displays at the museum were huge metallic trees made up of motorcycles stacked up to the ceiling in circular patterns.

These appeared in several places in the museum, with many models of vintage motorcycles facing in all directions.

The military exhibit was awe inspiring, featuring motorcycles from the thirties throughout the last century up until today.

There was also a wall display depicting the early days of the dangerous and exciting board track racing where motorcycles raced on wooden boards to speeds in excess of seventy-five MPH, with NO BRAKES!

Speaking of racing, one corner of the room has a display of race bikes all leaned in a curve, starting with older race bikes from days past and continuing through every decade up to the present, culminating in modern bikes racing to a finish.

There are so many incredible motorcycles on display here. A Yamaha R7 race bike, which were produced in limited quantities for racing only a decade ago. Not one, but two Honda Runes. A Victory Vegas in gleaming yellow. A Honda NR 750 V-Four which was FAR ahead of its time.

There was also the famed Alligator, designed by fellow Long Islander Dan Gurney only a few short years ago.

One of the most interesting bikes on display was a Jawa Ice racer with spikes embedded in the tires as well as a left handlebar raised far up in a vertical position for as much lean as possible. Ice racing! What a concept!

What was my favorite motorcycle on display? That’s easy, the MV Agusta F4. I love that bike!

The museum does not only have motorcycles on display, but large displays of Lotus Formula-1 cars are impressively displayed as well.

The Barber Motorsports museum is one destination that should be on every motorcyclist’s short list of places moto-related to visit. It’s incredibly impressive and created with an enthusiast’s love of the sport. It has to be experienced to be believed.

Hours: Mon-Sat: 10am to 6pm • Sun: Noon to 6pm $15/adult; $10 ages 4-12; AAA discount available AMA Superbike Championship • Sept. 24-26 Barber Vintage Festival • Oct. 8-10 Visitors Information: www.birminghamal.org

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Page 22

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Adrian Blake

COMPASS EXPEDITIONS TO USHUAIA

If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to ride through Patagonia, the experience can best be described as an adventure of a lifetime.

Patagonia is one of the world’s must-see destinations, known for its breathtaking scenery and unique ecosystem. And the best way to see it is from the saddle of a motorbike.

Always ready for an adventure, I joined the knowledgeable and friendly team who run Compass Expeditions for a 17-day ride through Chile and Argentina.

They call it the Patagonian Explorer tour for good reason. Much of the countryside we rode through is

untamed. It makes you really feel like you’re blazing uncharted territory aboard your BMW F650 GS supplied by Compass.

Our group gathered in Santiago, Chile to get acquainted. The ride started in Pucón, about 450 miles south of the capital city. It ended 2,100 miles later in legendary Ushuaia, recognized as the southernmost city in the world.

Patagonia is a region that covers roughly 260,000 square miles. It extends from the southern part of Buenos Aires Province to the tip of Tierra del Fuego.

As we discovered, it’s a land of desolate beauty and very sparse population. To the west are the Cordillera de los Andes and vast expanse of the

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Southern Patagonian Ice Field. East of the cordillera is semi-arid plateau that’s dominated by a low scrub called jarilla.

Patagonia’s climate is very changeable. But fortune smiled on us, as we experienced near-perfect spring weather throughout our travels (the South American spring is September to November). On average, temperatures ranged from mid-70s F in the north to low 50s in the south (although it did get cooler, at times dipping down to 40 degrees.)

Wind is also a fact of life in Patagonia. It was an almost constant companion as we rode across the steppe. We saw many signs along the road showing a tree bending in a strong breeze.

A large part of our ride was along Argentina’s famous Ruta Nacional 40. This is the route that Che Guevara took in 1952 on his Norton 500. He documented the trip in his book, The Motorcycle Diaries.

Ruta 40 runs more than 3,000 miles, roughly paralleling the eastern spine of the Andes. A good portion of the road surface is gravel, ideal for dirt biking. Long straight stretches carve through sweeping vistas of stark post-glacial landscape.

Once we crossed the Strait of Megellan from Chile into Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, we followed Ruta Nacional 3. Part of the Pan-American Highway, the well-paved road cuts through mountain passes and spectacular scenery for the last 60 miles into Ushuaia.

Along the route we were treated to a variety of specially hand-picked accommodations that added to the enjoyment of the whole experience. We bedded down in boutique hotels and unique hostels and spent a couple of nights in a classic estancia (ranch).

Of course, we all consumed a hearty share of South American food and drink. Asado or traditional BBQ is common fare and South American wines, especially, are among the best in the world.

Highlights are too many to mention, but two in particular stand out. Parque Nacional los Glacieras is located in Argentina’s Santa Cruz Province and Perito Moreno Glacier is one of its star attractions.

That’s no mean feat since there are 47 glaciers in the park. I wasn’t quite prepared for the blueness of Moreno’s ice or its sheer size (3 miles wide and 20 miles long).

For a change of pace, we camped in geodesic dome tents at Torres del Paine National Park. UNESCO declared it a World Biosphere Reserve in 1978.

Arriving at the park, we were greeted by throngs of grazing guanacos. These relatives of the camel are on the protected species list and roam freely.

Only two of us embarked on an 8-hour roundtrip climb to see the Paine massif up close. The long trek was well worth the impressive view of the famed Los

Page 23

Cuernos and the emerald lake beneath them.

For me, riding through the wildness of Patagonia was mesmerizing. I left knowing that I’d go back in an instant.

For more information visit www.compassexpeditions.com

Page 24

(Continued from Page 13)

30 miles ) and check things out. Big mistake on my part cause we both were smitten. What a great Moto-Inn destination. Been to the Depot Lodge three times now and each time are treated like family by Ms. Mikell Ellison, general manager. Your Moto-Inn logos are proudly displayed at both The Depot Lodge and across the road at the general store and Swinging Bridge Restaurant. Our last stay was on a Thursday, which is blue grass night at the restaurant. Good food and good times.

Problem is, now when I ask the Mrs. where she wants to go for a couple days ride its always the same answer, “ Paint Bank, Va.” Since the impetus came from your great publication, I figure you owe me a little help with the expenses. I’ll be watching my mailbox for your check.

Philip Eramo Columbus, Ohio BACKLASH

Dear Backroads, I just returned from Americade and I had to drop a quick Thank You for the great ride to the Bryant House & Vermont Country store that was in your June edition.

I am new at downloading the route to my GPS so I decided to try it out on Friday which was looking like the best weather day.

The route was filled with beautiful scenery and great roads. We didn’t have lunch at the Bryant House but we did spend time walking around the Vermont Country Store.

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

What a great place to visit. The route sure lived up to your name as it took us on some very backroads including some gravel roads. We did opt out on riding the road with a sign stating it was a level 4 road and warned driving at own risk.

Thanks again for all that you do for those of us that really enjoy riding.

Keep up the good work.

Thank You, David Donnamaria

Happy Anniversary to Us

Hi Shira and Brian, I just finished reading the 15th anniversary edition of Backroads. Wow! You really have come a long way, and your publication just keeps getting better. And thank you for the awesome Ride for Kids® PSA listing so many events.

Thanks for everything, Mary O. Ratcliffe, ABC Communications Director PBTF

Brian/Shira, Congratulations on your first 15 years. I remember picking up that 1st. issue at the Ramapo in 1995 and thinking how great it was to have a local motorcycle magazine. Here we are 15 years later and it keeps getting better.

Looking forward the next 15 and many more....

Mike Mosca (oh yea) Pam too...

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Congratulations on 15 years at Backroads. Great cover and great articles by you and Shira. We wish you another glorious 15 years of writing, riding and traveling. Happy trails. Best of luck. nw & mw

FREE WHEELIN’ (Continued from Page 4) It is almost impossible.

Still next year Americade will again be at Lake George, but after that - well that is in the hands of the bureaucrats in Albany.

If you are like us, you look forward to Americade each spring and we know that we spend a great deal of money in and around Lake George at each event.

We’re sure you do too.

For Americade to leave the Adirondacks would be a huge shame and shows an enormous lack of foresight by the “powers that be” in Albany. These same “leaders” offer millions of dollars to try to woo businesses to NYS but are killing a golden goose they already have. They seem blindly ignorant to the fact that other states offer $ incentives to move lucrative conventions like Americade.

It seems that they want to sink the rally like the Land Tortoise, the oldest Naval wreck in North America that sits at the lake’s bottom.

Remember that some of these folks are appointed, but others are elected and New York State riders/voters can make a difference, especially with elections coming up this Fall.

Theirs are the voices that really need to be heard, but every letter written, e-mail sent and phone call made by Americaders will force New York to open its eyes to what they could lose if Americade is forced to another location or state.

Letters can be sent to: Lawrence S. Schwartz Secretary to the Governor Executive Chamber State Capitol Albany, NY12224 Pete Grannis Commissioner NY State Dept of Environmental Conservation 625 Broadway, Albany, New York 12233-0001 www.dec.ny.gov • 518-402-8013

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 25

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

The Bunching Factor

Recently I got into a discussion with a friend of mine who has more miles and experience with riding motorcycles than few I know.

He stated that, ‘The Argument for Space,’ caught his attention, and at least, in his opinion, it was right on the mark. But he made an additional point that motorcyclists of all stripes, riding in groups, need to remain aware of the traffic bunching up behind them. Most groups he has seen, whether on a freeway or backroads, don’t leave enough space between them to allow passing, or conveniently enabling a car to slide into the parade to make an exit.

He went on to say that a few years back, while he was riding with a friend along a two-laner with no passing zones, a club was “cruising” at about 35 mph, in a 50 mph zone. Not one would move over to allow them to pass without crossing the double yellow...why? How hard is it to move over a few feet to let a fellow motorcyclist pass? Well, they eventually got by, but if they had been in a car, they would have had to go at their pace for 10 miles or so... this is not exactly the best way of building good will among car drivers.

I totally agreed with him and told him of a similar situation at Americade a few years back. Shira and I were riding up along Route 8, a very twistalicious Adirondack road. We came around a series of S-turns and right into the back of a cruiser group doing 30 in a 50.

We rode with them for at least 5 miles before the road opened up into one of the few short straights with passing zones that you will find up there.

Shira and I immediately went into pass em’ mode - and a legal one at that but then these guys and gals remembered the throttle as well and, even though they saw us making the pass, they accelerated to keep us from completing it.

As we were quickly approaching a blind left-hand sweeper we were forced to do the “bone head” and sometimes just plain stupid Double Split Pass; Shira on the left and I on the right around the last four bikes at a rapid pace.

Needless to say I could see that they were impressed with our riding skills as many of them were holding one finger up, showing us they knew we were #1.

There was no need for any of this except for the fact that this particular group felt so important that they deserved the road, the entire road, to themselves.

This sort of attitude only hurts us all in the long run.

The “Bunching Factor” directly relates to what I was getting into with my ‘Argument for Space’ a few months back. When groups ride so closely together, especially larger groups at slower than normal speed, they can ruin everybody’s day on the road.

Big rallies such as Americade and Laconia have this problem on a constant basis. Riders want to stay with their friends, and then sometimes end up taking up a 1/4 mile of roadway in a solid bunch like a flock of tiny Starlings moving as one entity.

If your group is guilty of this, might you consider this suggestion? Spread it out. With proper spacing between your riders you will reap a number of benefits, not to mention you will enjoy the ride much more than if you are right on the rear wheel of the rider ahead of you.

A group of riders spread out over a mile or so is far more manageable and will also allow for others, who might be riding at a faster pace, to easily and safely pass through your group without any drama. You will be able to ride your own ride and at your own pace. If something happens you will have room to move and, just as importantly, you will not have a large group of irate riders and drivers behind you, some of whom are just about to try some stupid.

Here’s a hint, if you or your group has three or more vehicles behind you, all bunched up, it is okay to, when safe, pull to the right and let them pass and then you can continue on your own ride and at your own pace - and so can everybody else.

The road is a marvelous place and with a courtesy it can be a better ride for us all.

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 26

OWOWCOW CREAMERY • 4105 DURHAM RD, OTTSVILLE, PA • 610-847-7070 So, how’s your summer going so far? Have you been getting your RDA of riding and ice cream? I certainly hope so, as I’ve given you plenty of opportunity. With that in mind, here’s this month’s addition to the tasty list; OwowCow Creamery in Ottsville, PA. This little gem was found by accident. We had planned on doing our annual Dog Days of Summer Hot Dog Ride and I had plotted three tasty tuber stops and a full day’s ride. Somewhere along the way, the route went terribly awry and put us on I-78. I was quite upset with myself and carried that with me for the rest of the way. Upon arrival at Philly’s Hot Dog Café in Limerick, PA, we were confronted with a ‘Sorry, Closed’ sign. Asking the neighboring stores, we were told that they just up and left about three weeks earlier. My upset was transformed into anger, and Brian reminded me that it’s really not a healthy thing to ride a powerful motorcycle while angry. I tried to shake it off and continued the ride. The return trip was quite pleasant and, at one particular turn, the savior for the day was found.

OwowCow Creamery, as taken from their Facebook page, ‘produces premium ice cream using locally sourced, organic ingredients in small batches. They support local farms in Bucks County and deliver a product that is wholesome and authentic.’ May I interject here - HOLY COW, THAT WAS THE BEST ICE CREAM I’VE EVERY EATEN. OwowCow opened about a year ago, and I’m sure has developed a healthy following from day one. They offer almost 100 flavors (no, not all at once) and are quite creative in their concoctions. How’s this for a sampling: Sweet Honey Cream with Rum Walnuts, Banana Brownie Madness, Nutella Hazelnut, Organic Green Tea, Rose Water Cardamom, Blood Orange Cranberry, and Meyer Lemon. They always have three flavors of vanilla - Tahitian, Indonesian and Madagascar (you’ve got to eat it, eat it...). Their seasonal flavors include Just Peachy in the summer, Organic Sweet Potato Wasabi in the fall and Candy Cane Chip for your winter cravings. In addition, they will help to cleanse your palette with their sorbet flavors such as Pear Ginger and Orange Mango.

Pulling into their lot, we saw a spattering of picnic tables with umbrellas and folks

Shira’s Summertime Ice Cream Ride

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 27

There are two routes for this ride. One starts at the Chatterbox Drive-in in Augusta, NJ (90 miles O/W) and the other can be considered an Ice Cream to Ice Cream ride with it starting at the Applegate Farms in Upper Montclair, NJ (85 miles O/W). Here’s the rub, you’re just getting the printed R&R for the one starting in Augusta. The other is only available in GPS format.

Route found on page 44.

enjoying their summertime treats. The young ladies serving up scoops inside are very helpful and will offer tastings of any flavor before purchase (or after, for that matter, so don’t take advantage). With the abundance of flavors from which to choose, I was certainly hard pressed but opted for a double scoop of Coconut and Garden Berries (which includes strawberries, blueberries, bilberries and raspberries). They told me this was their best seller and I certainly understood why. The berries were as fresh as could be with just the right amount of sweetness. The combination of berries and coconut was extremely refreshing and was the saving grace of an otherwise disappointing day.

You’ll find OwowCow Creamery at the intersection of Rtes.

563 and 412 in Ottsville, PA, with the exact address being 4105 Durham Road. They are open Monday-Saturday from noon to 10pm and Sundays from noon to 9pm. If you need to call them you can reach them at 610-847-7070. Of course we’ll give you a sweet ride to get you there. Enjoy and have a scoop for me.

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AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 28

AMERICADE 2010 Return to the Lake Return toReturn the Lake Return to the Lake to the Lake

20 years ago Shira and I got hitched.

Back then we had less than the proverbial pot to whiz in and with a new bride’s dreams of Hawaii or the Caribbean quickly evaporating I felt the need to come up with something cool and interesting to fill in the need to disappear for awhile.

Those days we were two up on a small Kawasaki 600 Ninja and for years we had heard of this rally in upstate New York called Americade.

We grabbed some of the wedding loot and booked a B & B outside Lake George and with soft luggage packed up we scooted north and to the Adirondacks.

What we found was two-wheeled nirvana. Thousands of bikes; it was motorcycle heaven. We had found a home - for at least one week a year.

We have not missed one since. Heck, we even flew home a day early from South Africa a dozen years back to get in one day of Americade.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

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Canada Street was fairly crowded, but nothing compared to the throngs that would be here in another day of so.

We easily found a spot and some flat bread pizza at one of the tiny bistros that line the street. We sat down to take in the early Americade crowds.

Each year at Americade famed journalist and motorcycle tour operator Fred Rau has his 7 am coffee klatch meeting up at Roaring Brook. For an hour each day Fred and others field questions and generally discuss what is happening in the motorcycle world.

Normally we’d do a pre-Americade ride on our way to Lake George but this year we were shackled home as we made sure the July issue was safely to the printer and we didn’t get going until early Tuesday.

We met our friends Mike and Nuri, from Rising Wolf Garage, at one of the rest stops on the Thruway and west of Albany we cut into the Adirondacks along some tiny backroads we had plotted.

Sacandaga Lake is always a joy to ride and after a quick lunch in Edinburgh we scooted past Roaring Brook and to the Holiday Inn where we picked up our wristbands and then on to the Sun Castle, which has been Backroads Central North for the last few years.

Go See the Pros that Know How to

Ride!

The day that had been cool and cloudy morphed into a perfect afternoon and we rode over to the Vendor Expo at Million Dollar Beach and did a bit of window shopping and spent some time with vendors and friends we have from the industry.

As you probably know Americade has plenty to offer and the talks and seminars are well worth attending. That Tuesday evening Mark Tuttle, from Rider magazine, was giving a talk on 25 Years Behind Bars.

Mark has been a good friend for years so that evening we rode over to Roaring Brook and took in his excellent state of the art PowerPoint show.

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Page 30

It is always a great way to start the day and something that I look forward to each year. Beside, Fred is always kind enough to let me plug Backroads.

In fact back in November of 1995 Fred’s MCN was the first of the big magazines to acknowledge us and for that we are forever grateful.

Up and out that early gives you the jump on the breakfast crowd and that works for us. We had some things taken care of at the expo and then had a lakeside lunch with friends.

The morning sun gave way to clouds and just as we hit the indoor expo at The Forum the skies opened up and Lake George got a light soaking.

Still a little rain has never stopped Americade, nor put a damper on it.

The rest of the day some scattered moisture pelting the region, but Fred Rau’s seminar was packed, as usual and a number of our tribe went to see Fred while Shira and I joined some other folks for a grand bar-

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AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

beque at a wonderful 100 year old log cabin, just feet from the shore at Diamond Point.

Yes, there was a guitar and some very talented players. On the mantle of the fireplace sat a small replica of a wooden Hacker craft, the old-style boats that still ply these clear waters. Mr. Happy found it was just the right size and ensconced himself there for the night.

With radar and satellite showing that this could all be a fading history come mid-day on Thursday we hung up wet riding gear for the slow drip dry and hoped the ever pessimistic Weather Channel was wrong; as they are apt to be so many times.

For some reason I tend to rise with the sun up here in the Adirondacks and it was so this week as dawn and I greeted each other every day on the porch overlooking the Queen of America’s Lakes.

With the skies tending towards clearing I hoped the demo rides were going to be in full swing.

Not that I needed to ride anything specifically, but so many come to Americade to ride new bikes and many a manufacturer has sold hun-

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

dreds of machines after this rally each year.

Still, that didn’t stop two of the major manufacturers to, once again, ignore this rally. With the risk of insulting BMW and Honda I have to ask What are you thinking?

While the other manufacturers are showing up with a truck and bikes to ride your two spots have been empty for two years. and Triumph Suzuki should pay attention too.

Americade is a superb chance to get hundreds of riders in and around and on your machines.

The money you spend on catering your race team for the weekend would pay for Americade. Okay maybe a couple of weekends, but you should be getting my point.

In the meanwhile Kawasaki, Yamaha, Star, Harley-Davidson, Victory, Spyder, Royal Enfield and others were packed all

week long. After all the years Americade has provided a great platform for so many OEMs to highlight their newest rides the folks so obviously absent should be ashamed. Are riders in the northeast just not worth the trouble?

C’mon Royal Enfield shows and Honda and BMW do not. It’s embarrassing!

At the same time I had to wonder who would seriously consider the $85,000 Bourget Chopper down in The Forum. But, at least they made the effort; as did Indian whose new “old” bikes really looked fantastic.

The rains drizzled on and off through the night and my early morning run around the area was a bit on the clammy side.

On a tip from O’Life, Shira and I went in search of Cooper’s Cave, where the Hudson River tumbles down

Page 31

Glens Falls. It was here that the famed writer James Fennimore Cooper got the inspiration to write his great novel ‘The Last of the Mohicans.’ The caves are still there but so is an incredible amount of industry. A power plant and factories line the Hudson along Glens Falls and the bridge over the river here is the sixth one built since Henry sailed up the Hudson.

We did our best to get lost but kept running into roads we knew and how we got back to Roaring Brook in half the time it took us to ride down the Northway earlier that day is beyond us.

We rode around every little road we could find and only got turned around just once or twice. Eventually we found ourselves in Stony Creek and stopped at the Inn for a late lunch.

On cue the dark clouds rolled in and boomers drenched the town. We found out later these off and on heavy showers drowned a lot of riders throughout the Adirondacks this day.

Page 32

Just as we finished our meal, the sun returned and we spent the rest of the day hitting more tiny roads that ran through forest and farmland.

As we dropped back south towards Lake George one more band of showers floated by but, according to the Zumo’s radar, this looked to be the last for the day.

Just a few minutes after returning to the hotel the skies cleared and the sun warmed the region. This would not last long this wet night.

Last year we had given our annual ‘Lifetime Achievement in Motorcycling Excellence’, also called that LAME Award, to the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation’s Mike Traynor.

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

well received and it is obvious that our association has made an about face and is heading in the right direction. The attendance was lighter than I had hoped and if you are an AMA member or thinking about joining please come and hear Rob speak if he returns next year.

Friday was a brilliant day and we made the best of it with a dozen or so of us heading north up Route 9N and then following a very circuitous route through the Adirondack backroads. This nearly 150mile ride took most of the day, and we certainly found some new and exciting bits of Adirondack pavement to entertain us that day. At ride’s end we did manage to sneak into Warrensburg and the famed Oscars Smokehouse to pick up some meaty goodies for our annual barbeque by the lake. In truth I had heard much of Oscars, but this was the first time I had stopped in. It once was a small and rustic place; but small and rustic places tend to burn and that is what happened just a short time ago, much to the horror of many. But

This year we wanted to give the LAME Award to the very person who had created Americade all those years ago and by doing so brought so many smiles and good times to countless thousands of riders.

Bill Dutcher.

Bill is everywhere during Americade, and tracking him down can be a Herculean task by itself. But, with AMA President Rob Dingman giving a speech at Roaring Brook Ranch on Thursday evening, we were pretty sure we could find Mr. Dutcher and pass along the Excellence Award.

President Dingman was gracious enough to give up some of his time so we could hand Bill the award and we just want to thank Bill once again for all he has done and for bringing us Americade every year.

Rob Dingman’s talk about the American Motorcyclist Association was

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Oscar’s is back and is very impressive!

Warrensburg is not.

All these vendors that are here have nothing to do with Americade and are basically Klingons selling biker crap.

They will not get a penny from us.

This evening we had friends and industry homeys coming

by. The folks from Nolan brought in barbeque for Corinth. Olympia brought a huge salmon and all night people dropped by to enjoy the food and fun.

In the mean time Americade carried on without us with the closing ceremonies complete with a starry night sky painted with brilliant colors from the huge fireworks show.

Nothing is worse than a rainy Saturday at Americade. Fortunately it doesn’t happen often, but did this week.

Exploratory rides into the mountains were scrapped and the Tour Expos at both Million Dollar Beach and The Forum were packed with folks looking for those last minute deals.

Begrudgingly we donned riding suits and did a final few laps of the vendors; more looking for anything we missed than to buy anything.

The rain hit on and off all day and if there was ever the perfect lazy day then this was it.

I took a spin around Americade and up to Roaring Brook just to see if we won any door prizes. Each year I do this and each year I win bupkis.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

We didn’t. In fact they had closed it all down earlier that afternoon. Damn, and I had a feeling this would be my year.

The rain didn’t stop folks from filling Canada Street that night and as the evening slipped by so did Americade 2010.

As always we had a great time up in Lake George. So did about 40,000 other riders. And, unlike last year where disaster and bad luck seemed to be riding pillion with us; this year was just dandy.

Things are brewing up in Bill Dutcher’s offices in Lake George and the future of Americade hangs in the balance. We hope to continue going to Americade - in Lake George - for a long time to come. But, only time will tell. (see page 4) With that said - we hope to see you at Americade next year for their 30th Anniversary.

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Page 33

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Page 34

o s g Do

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AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Each year we like to celebrate the old fashioned Frankfurter, more commonly called the Hot Dog. This annual sausage soirée began a few years back after watching a cable show on the history of the delicious dogs and their place in Americana.

Our first year we organized a little day ride for a number of readers and followed Shira from the Hudson to Delaware hitting a number of great New Jersey Hot Dog joints along the way. Last year we did a storm-soaked ride that brought us to some even odder dogs. The bar had been lifted. Over time we have learned that some of the better Frankfurterers can and will be found in some odd places.

It is rare that you find a Great All American Diner Run-esque establishment. Not every Hot Doggery has the feel of Hot Dog Johnny’s out on the foresty banks of the Pequest River; nope many will be found in semi-urban areas and, heaven forbid, tiny shopping malls.

The secret here is to overlook this and follow the local crowds. Where they flock you will find Dogelicious excellence.

Keeping our love of the open-road minds open, we went in search of this year’s Hot Dog Run - which we’ll call Dogs on the Delaware.

Our first stop was easy, and close for us.

You’ll find PJ’s Dog House at 8 White Deer Plaza in Sparta, New Jersey. Part deli as well delectable Doggies are not only what they serve up here; in fact they will most likely be on Man vs Food soon as they have a killer pancake that I know I could finish - in a week!

Here’s the deal gobble down a 12 inch Pancake, 8 Scrambled Eggs, 8 Pieces of Bacon, Ground Sausage, Home Fries, smothered in Cheddar Cheese! Eat it in half an hour and it’s on PJ’s. You’ll get a PJ’s T-Shirt and your face on the Wall of Fame!

We’ll pass, as it was for the Dogs we had come. The Dogs here are deep fried, ripped and split and there are nine styles from which to choose. Here are just a few: ‘The Barney Dog’- Bacon & Cheese, ‘The

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Say Cheese Dog’- self explanatory and, what I sat down for, ‘The Soprano Dog’, Two Dogs, Peppers, Onion & Potatoes! Yikes and this was just the first Frank of the day.

We like alot about PJ’s, but like it even more that it’s so relatively close to Backroads Central. Lipitor, anyone?

As per her way Shira had put together a scrumptious route for her Dog Run and, following along we eventually came out on Route 46, just east of a place we had stopped by on our first Hot Dog Run a few years back - the famous Hot Dog Johnny’s.

Not wanting to miss out on the Jersey Classic we pulled in and chowed down on their classic dog. I had a diet soda (I know, I know!) - no Buttermilk for me, thank you.

Page 35

River Hot Dog Man has expanded to much more than hot dogs! They have something for everyone, including delicious chicken sandwiches, kosher hot dogs, nachos and cheese, and veggie burgers.

But... you knew that eventually there would be a but - you’re going to have to get wet to partake in this culinary endeavor with the River Hot Dog Man. Enter the people at Delaware River Tubing (www.delawarerivertubing.com).

Here you can safely park your motorcycles, get into your swim trunks and float around the cooling river on a smokin’ hot day.

Stay on the Jersey-side and follow the signs to the “man” himself (or herself depending on who’s cooking). Now this is something you won’t find in the glossy nationals!

After our little river voyage it is time to move on and this time cross the river right at Frenchtown and head north on scenic Route 32.

All too soon you’ll ride into Easton - here the semiurban part of the Hot Dog Run comes into play.

1 Year Open House Celebration • Saturday July 31st Earlier I said that many great Hot Doggeries can be found in small shopping malls. Well, not this one. Let us introduce you to the Delaware River legend - The River Hot Dog Man, just outside Frenchtown, New Jersey.

Yes, we know this sounds like something Seymour O’Life or the guys from Weird NJ would cover, but I am here to tell you he’s real.

Just outside of Frenchtown, on the Delaware River floating around the river itself - you will spot the River Hot Dog Man on a small floating Hot Dog restaurant - NJ Boat registration #NJ2938GS. Hey - GS - I like that.

For almost 25 years the Hot Dog Man has been floating around feeding hungry canoers and tubers and, although hot dogs are his specialty, the Famous

Special Events and Activities 11am to 4pm • Check web for details Chicken BBQ • Special savings storewide and demo rides

RIDE THE GOLD STANDARD Honda Gold Wing Customer Loyalty program. Get an additional $500 bonus when you trade in any year/model Gold Wing on your purchase.

Are you ready to ride? With Honda’s 0.99% fixed APR financing offer, there’s never been a better time to buy a new Honda Gold Wing. And the rate is FIXED for the life of the load. Mavrix Motorsports has a great selection and right now you can take a test ride on America’s Gold Standard of touring machines.

0.99% Fixed APR financing available for customers who qualify for super preferred credit tier for up to 36 months through Honda Financial Services. Payment example: 36 monthly payments of $28.20 for each $1000 financed. Offer good on all model year new and unregistered Gold Wing models. Not all buyers may qualify. Higher rates apply for buyers with lower credit ratings. Check with participating Honda Dealers for complete details. Offer ends 9/30/2010. $500 Loyalty Bonus. Customer must purchase a new and unregistered qualifying model during the program period and apply the certificate to accessories, riding gear or other purchase at a participating dealer on the same day the vehicle is purchased. Customer is responsible for all related sales tax. Certificate is not transferable and has no cash value. Redemption value not to exceed the amounts indicated on the certificate. Limit of one (1) certificate per unit purchase. American Honda reserves the right to amend, cancel or revoke this program at any time without prior notice. In all matters pertaining to the interpretation and application of any phase of the program, the decision of American Honda shall be final. Restrictions apply. Offer applies only to U.S. models sold in the United States. See dealer for details. Offer ends 7/31/2010.

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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Follow the route to the 25th Street Mall and search out Jimmy’s Hot Dogs. It’s easy to find; as there might be a line out the door. But, no worries the line moves as fast as a Hyabusa.

We sat down and had four dogs with everything, which means mustard, fresh onion and a sliced dill pickle spear along with two sodas for under $6.

Their Hot Dogs, which are wonderful, cost you just $.95 cents each. Talk about value! Yes, you have to stand around and eat them in a mall parking lot - but what do you want for less than a buck?

High Alpine Tour with Backroads and Edelweiss

July 17-24, 2011 • If Not Now - WHEN? Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour.

Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites.

We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice.

When: July 17 -24, 2011 Yes, 2011 – that gives you two years to get ready to come on Backroads most exciting event ever!

There’s only room for so many, so make your plans now! Prices start at just $3360/rider and $2920/passenger.

For more information email Doris: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com or call us at 973-948-4176.

Ride the Alps, if not now, when?

From Easton we kept on heading north along the river. Past the Water Gap and along its banks to the tiny burg of Matamoras, Pennsylvania.

Staying on US 6 and Route 209, in the direction of Port Jervis you will find our final stop for the 2010 Hot Dog Run - Cats!

Cats? Don’t you mean Dogs?

Nope we’re talking one of the most serious Hot Dog places we have ever found - Cat’s Incredible Dogs!

Take note that Cat’s is closed on Sundays and Mondays - for all you “On Any Sunday” riders. But Tuesday through Saturday they are open for lunch (11:30am to 4pm) with a staggering 35 different styles of Dogs! Here are just a few: the Texas Dog, the Philly Fido, the Paisano Dog, the Loch Ness Monster, the Spud Missile, the Mount Fuji and new to the menu the Hellish Relish (why go there?) and the Big Cat. You get the idea.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

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Now, if you have followed this ride all day long this is your last stop. Your last chance to follow in our foot steps, or tire tracks. Go for it... pick just one of the 35. Oh, you can’t? No, problem just spin the wheel.

Yes, Cat’s Incredible Dogs has an arcade-style spinning wheel to make the choice for you. This way when Doc Gonzo, the heart surgeon, asks you why you’re in to see him you have, what we in the letter agencies call, “Plausible Deniability.”

We hope you enjoyed the 2010 Hot Dog Run. We know it covers a lot of ground, but we think it’s worth it.

You might consider breaking it up over a few days and really enjoying what the terrain and Dogs have to offer.

Woof! ( Route on page 45)

PJ’s Dog House 8 White Deer Plaza, Sparta, NJ 973-729-6900 Hot Dog Johnny’s Rte. 46, Buttzville, NJ 908-453-2882 • hotdogjohnny.com Jimmy’s Hot Dogs 2555 Nazareth Road , Easton, PA 610-258-7545

The River Hot Dog Man Delaware Tubing 2998 Daniel Bray Highway (Route 29) Frenchtown, NJ 908-996-5386 www.riverhotdogman.com Cat’s Incredible Dogs!

505 A Rte. 6/209 Pennsylvania Ave. Matamoras, PA 570-491-5870 www.catsincredibledogs.com

The Madeleine Islands: Quebec’s Secret Island Paradise

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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R

words and images: Ken Aiken

ising from a vivid blue ocean off the port side of the ship were emerald-green hills atop red sandstone cliffs a hundred-foot-high and a finback whale was swimming parallel to our course. My first view of Entry Island was unlike any other part of the Appalachians I’d ever seen.

Even with my research they remained a mystery and, despite stories heard, I’d never met anyone who had actually been there. Basque fishermen had been voyaging to this archipelago to hunt “sea cows” since the early 1500’s, but then, as now, the best-kept maritime secrets rarely appear on maps. Yet, when the Traversier docked at Souris on Prince Edward Island, nine bikes rolled out; when it left, it carried four.

Debarking at Grindstone (Cap-aux-Meules) my first stop was just outside the gates of the ferry terminal at the tourist information center. The local tourist board is happy to do all the hard work in setting up an itinerary and booking lodging. It appears that tonight I’ll be sleeping in a convent.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

The island of Havre-aux-Maison (House Harbor) is difficult to describe without poetic license. The sea is really blue and the grass is emerald green, but laced by millions of dots of color from the profusion of wildflowers that grow on these islands.

Orange sandstone HAVRE-AUX-MAISON cliffs give way to beaches the color of aged ivory. Furthermore, imagine a place where every home is

painted a different color. Originally an Acadian tradition developed as identifying beacons for fishermen returning home, it has survived and matured into a cultural art form that’s actively embraced by the Madelinots. Varied hues of purple, red, blue, orange, green, and yellow intermingle with houses painted pastel turquoise, pink, lavender, mint, and mauve. Trimmed in contrasting or complimentary colors, each differs from their neighbors and it’s a photographer’s dream.

Route 199 is only 54.6-miles (88 km) long and, despite a few sharp corners, it doesn’t offer any technical challenges. Its entire length, from the docks in La Grave to the harbor in Grande Entrée, can be easily ridden in an hour and a half. The total mileage of all roads, both gravel and paved, on the archipelago totals less than 186 miles (300 km). However, all the time, effort, and expense required just to get me to this highway proves to be justified.

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rus, or “sea cows,” once hauled themselves ashore to sunbath) or perhaps it’s because these islands offer a total of 196-miles of pristine sand beaches to choose from. The bike can be parked anywhere: stealing a motorcycle just isn’t feasible when the only escape is by boat.

The highway ends at the quay in Grande-Entrée. Today most of the fishing fleet is docked and the boutiques and restaurants seem to be moderately busy. I take some photos, but since I’ve managed to cover less than 30 miles this morning, I want to keep riding. La Grave is at the other end of the road so, pulling a U-turn, I head in the opposite direction.

The southern end of Route 199 terminates at another fishing pier, although the island of Albert’s Harbor ENTRY ISLAND (Île du Havre-Aubert) continues for many kilometers as Sandy Hook, a long, thin dune that stretches towards Entry Island. The village of La Grave was the first settlement in the islands, established in 1755 by refuges escaping the Acadian Expulsion by the British in Nova Scotia (others sought refuge in New Orleans and created Cajun culture). The Acadian flag vertical red, white, and blue stripes with a gold star in the blue - is flown throughout the islands, but, understandably, it’s most prevalent here.

ROUTE 199

Live Entertainment and DJ throughout the Summer Check our website for full schedule

Our Famous Lobster Bake Sunday, Aug. 15 One 12-mile segment of Route 199 runs from Havre-aux-Maisons to Pointe-aux-Loups and along North Dune to Grosse Île. On this long, straight stretch of highway utility poles line each side of the road only to converge in the distance with heat waves adding a bit of surrealism to the already gentle undulations of an asphalt surface built on a foundation of loose sand.

The ocean lines both sides of the highway only to disappear behind a long ridge of grass-anchored sand to my left. In places the powdery sands of transverse dunes crest above the road and spill onto its asphalt shoulders while blue herons stride through the lush saltwater marshes to my right.

One of the top-ranked beaches in the world arcs around the East Point National Wildlife Reserve on Grosse Île. Except for two short stretches on either end, these 13-continuous miles (22 km) of gorgeous sand beach are deserted. Perhaps it’s due to the name, Grande Échouerie Beach (an échouerie is where wal-

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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SOUTH LIGHT

La Grave has become an artist community. Its tiny cedarshingled fishing sheds date from the 19th and early 20th centuries, but rather than housing lobster traps and fishnets, they’ve been transformed into small boutiques and galleries that feature the work of local artists and artisans. Café de La Grave is in the old general store, and it’s the place to order the local specialty, a seafood pie called “pot-en-pot.” I’ve arrived too early for the small boat-building contest (a hippie soapbox derby for boats) or the international sand castle competition (anyone can enter, but only castles can be constructed) that take place during the Acadian Festival during the first two weeks of August and so set off to explore the rest of the island’s roads.

Spitting stones from my rear tire it was too late to turn back and besides, even if I could turn around I wouldn’t be able to descend the steep rutted road. Called Chemin des Appenteurs it turns into a beautiful rarely traveled dirt road across the peak of the island. Every road has something special to offer: this one has a rockslide that has exposed beautiful crystals and I greedily stuffed my tank bag.

In the town of L’Étang-du-Nord on Cap-aux-Mueles Island a cluster of colorful clapboard-sided boutiques face the sea. The yellow one turns out to be Café la Côte, where salt-cod pizza is the house specialty. From here the angular hulk of Duke of Connaught can be seen resting against the rocks of Savage Head (Cap a Savage). Having rusted to the same red color as the cliffs, I can’t figure out what it is and have to ask. The locals joke that it’s

L’ETANG-DU-NORD

the work of a contemporary metal sculptor.

It turns out that an unusually large percentage of the residents are directly descended from the survivors of over 400 shipwrecks and many buildings on these islands were constructed from salvaged ship timbers. One such example is the Church of St. Pierre in La Vernière (c.

1876), which also has the distinction of being the secondlargest wooden church in North America.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

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VIEW

OR

CAP AUX MEULES

Among the grassy dunes, people are obviously searching for something.

It’s wild strawberries season, but this same scene takes place when blueberries and native cranberries are ripe. “Le bon gout frais des Îles (the good fresh taste of the islands) is a term used to proudly identify local fish and produce. Pied-De-Vent is a dairy making non-pasteurized cheese from their own cows; microbrewery À l’abri de la Tempête produces five different brews from locally grown barley; and Le Barbocheux winery creates a dan-

delion and berry wine called “bagosse.” The local veal is exquisite, seal sausage turns out to be quite tasty, and seafood is so abundant, varied, and inexpensive that you wonder how fisherman manage to make a living.

Smoking fish is an island tradition and Fumoir d’Antan on Île du Havreaux-Maisons is a place I want to visit. They’ve created an excellent little museum in the original smokehouse and the story is clearly presented in both French and English. Besides the traditional herring they also smoke mackerel, eel, and scallops. I purchase vacuum packages to bring home and a couple of “snack-packs” to munch on while riding about—this probably explains why my tank bag smells a little fishy.

Prior to the creation of Route 199 in 1956, Madelinots had to boat from island to island. This created very diverse communities unique to their particular patch of land. Today this remains evident on Entry Island, the only inhabited one not connected by road. There is a local pedestrian ferry, but I choose to make the six-mile (10 km) trek across open water in a rubber boat (Zodiac) operated by Excursions en mer.

ALRIGHT CAPE

After circumventing the island and looking at the nesting sites of local seabirds, including those of the Razorbill Auk, a couple hours remained to hike up Big Hill for a panoramic view of the archipelago.

The air is incomparably fresh and ocean stretches to the horizon. It’s a fitting goodbye to these islands.

Despite their small size, four days wasn’t long enough to take advantage of all that the Maggies have to offer and I never tired of going back and forth on the same roads. Now it’s time to return to Grindstone where I’ll load the Ducati onto the CMTA Vacancier for a three-day trip up the St. Lawrence River to Montreal, but somehow I’ll find an excuse to return to the Madeleine Islands next year.

LODGING Domaine du Vieux Couvent on the island of Havre aux Maisons (House Harbor) turned out to be a boutique hotel in the old convent. It’s one of those rare places where everything has been done right in the restoration and the ultra modern décor of it’s ten upper rooms and six apartment suites somehow works with the austere late 19th-century rooms on the ground level. I learned the details of the entire project - from gutting the interior to building furniture - that was designed and carried out by local craftsmen with a no-expense spared do-it-right attitude. This locally owned property is the finest boutique motel I’ve encountered anywhere. It was my introduction to the pride and attitude of island residents. The view from my windows, stretching across Plaisance Bay to Entry Island, seemed like a fantasy.

I would stay in other properties, each quite different, and in the morning would feel a tug of resistance in having to move on. I easily could have spent a season ensconced at Havre sur Mer on Havre Aubert writing my novel. Maison des Falaise on Havre aux Maisons is the most-often photographed house on the islands. The view was extraordinary. The list goes on and includes campsites, inns, and hostels. I highly recommend using the tourist board to book your stay. Just tell them your needs and let them make the arrangements.

For tourist information: (877) 624-4437 www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com For ferry information and reservations: (888) 986-5101 www.ctma.ca Departs from Souris, PEI at 2 PM on most days. Arrive an hour in advance.

Domaine du Vieux Couvent: (418) 969-2233 www.domaineduvieuxcouvent.com Havre sur Mer: (418) 937-5675 www.havresurmer.com Léon LaPierre: (888) 818-4537 (418) 986-6565 Rent a motorcycle or, if you have problems with yours call to have him pick it up.

LOCATION The Madeleine Islands (Îles de la Madeleine) are one of those rare “in” places to ride, but few have heard of them. Located in the Gulf of St. Lawrence approximately 134 miles (215 km) east of the Gaspe, 65 miles (105 km) north of Prince Edward Island, and 60 miles (95 km) west of Cape Breton, the “Maggies” are considered to be a northern segment of the Appalachian Mountains and belong to the province of Quebec.

Authoritative sources can’t even agree on the extent of their land area (somewhere between 77 and 88 square miles), but there are seven inhabited islands and all but one are connected by a single highway.

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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Turkey • Bulgaria • Romania on Two Wheels The expectation of going to Third World Countries was one of overcooked gray mystery meat, boiled potatoes and second-rate hotels. Boy, were we in for a big surprise as the beef, lamb, chicken and fish were all fresh and cooked to temperature as ordered. The vegetables, fruits & salads were brightly colored, succulent and juicy. Fifty years of Communist oppression has been quickly overcome to bring Bulgaria and Romania into the 21st Century with ambition, gusto and entrepreneurial spirit.

As Svetlana, our Sofia guide, explained the colors of their flag, we began to get a feel of the Bulgarian mind set: “White is for our freedom, red is for the blood that was spilled to achieve that freedom and the green represents the fertile hills words and images: Burt Richmond

and valleys that produce abundant fresh food that we enjoy.” Then she said that these colors are best visualized with their traditional Shopska salad of grated white cheese over sliced tomatoes and cucumbers.

But, back to putting our foot in the waters of the Black Sea and the Third World cultures and history of Romania and Bulgaria. Their admission to the EU two years ago has dramatically changed their patriotism and pride in being part of the bigger European Community. The EU has helped change the infrastructure with new roads, improved rail systems and telecommunications. These two countries have thrown off the yoke of Communism with great vigor that is truly refreshing.

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The EU has helped to re-build the roads in both countries, which has resulted in good roads with lots of twisites that are now comparable to the best of the Alps and the Dolomites. However, when they are bad, they are really potholed and slow going. Evolution will eventually bring all of them up to EU standards.

While this was never promoted as a pure motorcycle riding trip, we had many long stretches that were moto nirvana.

Romania uses the French kilometer monuments system, which made navigation much easier.

Riding through centuries of history is very stimulating and enriching. Yes, we had two weeks of serious intellectual, visual and aural enrichment.

Between the historic Byzantine period and the influence of the Ottoman Empire we had abundant examples of Greek Orthodox churches & monastaries with their brightly colored murals painted on the exterior walls. There are also the Russian Orthodox structures, with their ‘onion dome’ characteristic steeples. In Istanbul, we toured the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace, the Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar before we boarded a boat for a Bosporus cruise past stately palaces and private mansions.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

The countryside was alive with farmers toiling away in the fields. We shared the road with their horse drawn carts of all descriptions hauling people and produce to market. We passed miles of sunflowers contributing their brightness to our rides.

In Romania we could feel joyous people in brightly colored traditional clothing. Even their homes echoed the radiance of Nature’s palette. The Medieval villages were alive with pastel

Page 43

colored buildings. Town squares had fountains, flowers and happy people enjoying their surroundings.

Bucharest is a modern city of 2 million that easily shares historic architecture intertwined with avantgarde structures. Hotels tended to be very upscale. In Bucharest it was an elegant 4-star former politico mansion. We spent a day touring historic sights, including the Romanian Triumphant Arch located along a wide boulevard that gives the city the title of Paris of Eastern Europe. The Ceau-escu Palace has become the Romanian Parliament building after his execution in 1986, the second largest building in the world after the US Pentagon. It is huge and opulent with inlaid marble floors and magnificent crystal chandeliers.

Modern shops and restaurants lined narrow cobbled streets. Churches, synagogues and mosques were abundant for all faiths.

Brasov, the nearby ski town of Poiana Brasov and Bran, brought us

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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SHIRA’S ICE CREAM RIDE - AUGUST 2010 • OWOWCOW CREAMERY 4105 DURHAM RD, OTTSVILLE, PA • 610-847-7070 HOURS: MON-SAT: NOON TO 10PM • SUNDAY: NOON TO 9PM GPS ROUTE

FROM

CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN:

WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/2PPG5V

STARTING POINT - CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN, RTES. 15/206, AUGUSTA, NJ SOUTH ON ROUTE 206 RIGHT ONTO PRICE ROAD LEFT ONTO AUGUSTA HILL ROAD STRAIGHT ONTO CR 519 RIGHT ONTO CR 626 RIGHT ONTO OLD STAGE COACH ROAD LEFT ONTO CHURCH ROAD LEFT ONTO CR 626 LEFT ONTO PARSON ROAD RIGHT ONTO JUNCTION ROADRIGHT ONTO CR 622 LEFT ONTO RIDGE ROAD BEAR LEFT - STAY ON RIDGE ROAD LEFT ONTO WEST END DRIVE LEFT ONTO RTE. 94 RIGHT ONTO WILLOWS ROAD/CR 618 RIGHT ONTO RTE. 206 SOUTH IMMEDIATE RIGHT ONTO CR 611 BEAR LEFT ONTO HUNTSVILLE RD RIGHT ONTO PEQUEST ROAD RIGHT ONTO KENNEDY ROAD

• GPS ROUTE

LEFT

FROM

ONTO

APPLEGATE FARMS:

WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/O8DXR1

CR 626

LEFT ONTO BUCKHORN ROAD LEFT ONTO CASTNERS ROAD LEFT ONTO CR 647 RIGHT ONTO MONTANA ROAD RIGHT ONTO ALLENS MILLS ROAD RIGHT ONTO FOX FARM ROAD LEFT ONTO UNIONTOWN ROAD RIGHT ONTO LIBERTY ROAD/CR 637 RIGHT ONTO CR 639 RIGHT ONTO MUNICIPAL ROAD LEFT ONTO CR 519 RIGHT ONTO CREEK ROAD LEFT ONTO MOUNTAIN ROAD RIGHT ONTO PINCHERS POINT ROAD (MAY LEFT ONTO RIVER ROAD RIGHT OVER RIEGELSVILLE BRIDGE LEFT ONTO ROUTE 611 LEFT ONTO RIVER ROAD RIGHT ONTO NARROWS HILL ROAD LEFT ONTO KINTNER HILL ROAD

BE GRAVEL)

LEFT ONTO LONELY COTTAGE ROAD RIGHT ONTO MARIENSTEIN ROAD LEFT ONTO ROCK RIDGE ROAD RIGHT ONTO GEIGEL HILL ROAD RIGHT ONTO DURHAM ROAD ARRIVE AT 4105 DURHAM RD/OWOWCOW

LEFT ONTO HAMILTON ROAD LEFT ONTO SOUTH ST RIGHT ONTO CR 612 LEFT ONTO BEAR CREEK ROAD RIGHT ONTO SHADES OF DEATH ROAD RIGHT ONTO SOUTH TOWN ROAD LEFT ONTO HELLER ROAD LEFT ONTO STATE PARK ROAD Disclaimer: As with all Rip & Ride Route RIGHT ONTO SHILOH ROAD Sheets, we recommend following the LEFT ONTO JENNY JUMP ROAD ride first on a map. This way you’ll have a better idea of where you’re

LEFT ONTO CR 519 going and have more fun doing it!

LEFT ONTO LAKE JUST IT ROAD LEFT ONTO RADER ROAD RIGHT ONTO FREE UNION ROAD RIGHT ONTO US 46 WEST LEFT ONTO RTE. 31 RIGHT ONTO BELVIDERE AVE/CR 624 LEFT ONTO BUCKLEY ROAD RIGHT ONTO CR 623

ON RIGHT

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

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®

Rip & Ride DOGS ON THE DELAWARE DOWNLOAD GPS ROUTE HERE: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/MVA7KH START: PJ’S HOT DOG HOUSE, SPARTA, NJ SOUTH ON WHITE DEER PLAZA CR 613 ALONG LAKE LEFT AT LENAPY RD LEFT AT MAIN ST. CR 517 RIGHT AT CR 667 RIGHT AT CR 612 LEFT AT CR 615 RIGHT AT CR 613 RIGHT AT ALPHANO RD RIGHT AT RTE. 46 WEST TO HOT DOG JOHNNY’S LEFT AT TITMAN RD LEFT AT CR 519 IN ALPHA RIGHT AT CREEK RD LEFT AT RIVER RD RIGHT AT CR 627 LEFT AT BRIDGE ST RIGHT AT CR619 RIGHT AT RTE. 29 TO RIVER HOT DOG MAN AND DELAWARE TUBING CROSS BRIDGE TO PA NORTH ON RTE. 32 BEAR RIGHT AT RTE. 611 TO EASTON LEFT AT NORTH HAMPTON ST / RTE. 248 RIGHT AT NAZARETH RD JIMMY’S HOT DOGS IN 25TH STREET MALL BACK TO RTE. 611 NORTH BEAR RIGHT AT MARTINS CREEK BELVIDERE HIGHWAY LEFT AT RIVERTON RD. BEFORE BRIDGE HARD RIGHT TO RIVER RD P/U RTE. 611 NORTH LEFT AT BROAD ST TAKE SR 2028 NORTH ALONG RIVER POSSIBLE DETOURS RIGHT AT COMMUNITY DR RIGHT AT RTE. 209 NORTH TO MILFORD RIGHT AT US 6 TO CAT’S INCREDIBLE DOGS! Disclaimer: As with all Rip & Ride Route Sheets, we recommend following the ride first on a map. This way you’ll have a better idea of where you’re going and have more fun doing it!

to the mythical Dracula Castle overlooking a major north-south former toll road that the Hapsburgs’ controlled. This was recently ceded back to a Hapsburg heir living in the US and is operated as a popular tourist site. One could easily imagine life in medieval times in the Bran Castle, as it is known locally.

A strong bond between Russia and Bulgaria was created centuries ago when the Czar sent troops south to help the Bulgars repel the advances of the Ottoman Empire. Interestingly, the Patriarch of the Greek Orthodox Church sent Friar Cyril and Friar Dmitri to convert the Slavic-speaking Thracians and Bulgars, who did not have a written language. They developed a new alphabet that was of Greek origin for the Slavic sounds, ergo the Cyrillic alphabet evolved, which was subsequently adopted by the Czar’s court. Navigating our way in Bulgaria was a bit challenging at 100kph once we were off the major highways where signage was only in Cyrillic.

This was a fun trip full of history, warm friendly people, great local cuisine and wine plus those wonderful mountain twisties!

If you’d like to explore this part of the world, Kazoom Moto Adventures can take you there. Kazim Uzunoglu, owner/tourguide, is a licensed Turkish History guide, who put himself through the University of Virginia by running bus tours for American/British, Canadian and German tourists during the summers. Then went on to get his MbA in Economics in Istanbul. He is the most competent guide I have ever worked with, who provides incredible insight into the history and culture of the region, including Romania and Bulgaria. Actually, he has run tours that circumnavigate the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea. He speaks English better than we do, and has a great sense of humor. You can find him here: www.kazoom-moto-adventures.com.

Kazim Uzunoglu • Kazoom Moto Adventures 100/1 Mesrutiyet Cad. Beyoglu Istanbul 34430 Turkey • kazim@baltactours.com

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Birthday Ride

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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rifting off the night before one of my last thoughts was, ‘I’m getting up tomorrow for a sunrise birthday ride’.

This wasn’t a big birthday, no milestone this time around the sun, but still worthy of observing and this day always deserves respect.

My eyes fluttered open at 5:30 am - right on schedule and giving Shira a little peck on the cheek I quietly slipped out of bed and into my riding gear.

Rolling the bike out of the barn I fired the quiet R1200GS up and rolled out of the drive into the early morning light that was just flittering through the forest.

Riding down into open farm land Sol, my good morning friend, had just arrived over the horizon to the east and the fog that had draped this part of northern New Jersey the past few nights hung heavy on the fields.

The first rays of the day pierced through the mist, giving the landscape an almost ethereal feel.

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Full breakfast cooked to order. BYOB bar, hot tub, outdoor firepit, pool and game room. Free Maps and Suggested Rides. Group Special Packages.

5 restaurants/bars within walking distance.

PHONE (212) 874-6333 (516) 541-1119 (718) 847-2015 EMAIL

TRAMAS847@AOL.COM

WEB WWW.TRAMAS.COM

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 47

Stopping for that digital moment a car rolled up alongside me; Heidi, a friend from the gym and what we call a neighborhood up here in Sussex County. She was out early and we both agreed it was a lovely way to start a birthday.

I took a small road I know of that would bring me around the Paulinskill, one of the more pristine parts of New Jersey. The only ones out this early besides me were wishful fishermen. Some in boats, others sitting outside their trucks and cars, poles jammed into braces and lines running out from shore.

Heading south a pair of doe ran alongside me through the forest as the GS sang through the twists and turns that make up this region.

Crossing over another bridge the fog and sun mixed it up once again and I was compelled to stop and shoot.

Crossing near Swartswood Lake I headed up into the hill and a large rafter of turkeys crossed the road - the Godfather of the American bird and once, almost, our national symbol. I prefer the bald eagle.

Mr. Rabbit bounded across my path, but a slight tap on the brakes and we missed an unfortunate situation.

Near the top of the ridge that makes up the Kittatinys, which border Walpack Valley, I glanced to my right to see a good sized black bear hugging a tree.

I stopped. He stopped. I began to roll on and he ran along the forest too - not liking the BMW much at all.

Not much further on a nide of pheasants, all sorts of purples and reds blocked my path. Early morning rides here in northwestern New Jersey allow for all sorts of critters.

By this time I could feel the warmth of the day arriving and I course corrected towards home.

Passing near the Stillwater Firehouse, a pair of deer - mom and speckled baby - stopped to watch me pass, the little one bounding back and forth unsure what to do. She followed her mother’s lead back into the fields while I stopped for one last birthday picture.

The sign at the firehouse simply read, “Have a Safe and Happy Fourth of July.”

Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports

104 Main Street Lebanon, New Jersey 08833 STORE HOURS: MON, TUES, WED, FRI 9-6 THURS 9-7 • SATURDAY 9-5

www.rollinfast.com 908.236.9000

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 48

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G Saturday • Bergen County H-D/BMW Saddle Up Saturdays and BBQ • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com Second Sunday • Philadelphia Breakfast Ride. Meet at Silk City Diner - 5th/Spring Garden, Philadelphia PA - 8am • 215-922-2214 Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221

What’s Happenin’ 200, 5 door prize tix. More info: www.carolinasbmwmoa.org/rally.html 13-15 • Ride the Roof of North America with the 21st gathering of the BIG DOGS. Ridgway, CO. Hobnob with Pikes Peak, Paris Dakar and Baja 1000 finishers, enjoy multimedia shows, devour famed Mike Landry Cajun Gumbo and 2” thick T-bone steaks.

FOR EXPERIENCED OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE RIDERS ONLY! Hosted by BMW of Denver and Bob’s BMW. Limited entrant invitational. For more info • Clem Cykowski at 303755-6400 • bigdogbmw@yahoo.com • www.horizonsunlimited.com/bigdog 15 • Ride for Kids - New England • www.rideforkids.org

First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own

15 • Cedar Rapids Annual Legendary Lobster Bake. Rte. 97, Barryville, NJ. Advanced tickets only. Live outdoor entertainment all riverside • 845-557-6158 • www.cedarrapidsny.com

Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish

21-21 • 9/11 Memorial Ride. Largest Police-escorted motorcycle ride to all three sites.

Starting locations in Connecticutt, Ohio, Pennsylvania, NY, NJ and Virginia. For complete information please visit www.Americas911foundation.org • 877-771-0118

Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918 First Wednesday of the Month • Bergen County H-D/BMW Hump Day MusicFest.

Free concert from 6-9pm • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com

21 • Orange County Choppers End of Summer Charity Poker Run. Sign in: 9am @ OCC, 14 Crossroads Ct, Newburgh, NY; $25/rider; $10/pass. To benefit Literacey Orange Open Books Open Doors. Scenic ride to local Orange County historic sites. More than $1000 in prizes for best three poker hands. Includes lunch, vendors and more. • www.orangecountychoppers.com

Every Wednesday • Country Bike Night at the Airport Pub sponsored by the American Legion Riders Post 132, Franklin, NJ • 6pm - ? • CR 639, Sussex, NJ - next to the airport • 973-702-1215

21 • Liberty Harley-Davidson Kids Day with yard sale, refreshments and more. Blood Drive from 1-5pm. Call ahead for appt. • 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ. 732-3812400 • www.libertyharley.com

Every Wednesday • Bike Night at Tramontin Harley-Davidson, Exit 12 of I-80, Hope, NJ • 6-9pm • 908-459-4101 • www.tramontinhd.com

22 • 38th Foggy Mountain Reliability Run. Timed Road Run. Call or send email address for notification • fwspeeryamaha@aol.com • 973-778-6256

Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-in sponsored by Tramontin H-D and Rider Insurance. Corners of Rtes. 15 + 206, Augusta, NJ. Great food, outdoor seating, DJ spinning tunes • 973-300-2300 • www.chatterboxdrivein.com

22 • Joe Pitt Benefit Memorial Ride. Sign in: Dog House, 17 N . Midland Ave, Nanuet, NY 9-11am. $25 Pre-reg/$30 DOV.Scenic ride through Orange/Rockland Cty, NY with route sheets. Incl. food, refreshments, music, door prizes and more.

Every Thursday • Red Knights XX PA at the Dairy Queen, Route 209, Marshall’s Creek, PA, exit 309 off Route 80 • 6-9:30pm, weather permitting

22 • 10th Annual Pop’s Run hosted by the Nassau Wing MC to benefit the Amyloid Research Team at the Boston University School of Medicine. Sign in 9-10:30am at Yamaha/Suzuki/Victory of Mineola, 336 Jericho Tpke, Mineola NY. $20/pp includes ride, music, food, door prizes and more • www.popsrun.org • 516-680-0178

Every Thursday • Bike Night at The Old Schoolhouse Restaurant, Rte. 206, Downsville, NY • 607-363-7814 Every Thursday • Bike and Boat Nite at Woodport House/Sullivan’s Marina, 125 Route 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ. 6-10 pm starting May 22. DJ, music, food and drink specials.

Partial proceeds to benenfit ASPCA • www.woodporthouse.com Every Friday • Bike Night at O’Toole’s H-D. Open until 8pm. Food available. 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com

24-31 • Carolina Motorcycle Rental and Tours …to the Races Tour to benefit the Ride for Kids®. You can be a part of the action at the Red Bull Indianapolis GP this August! Join us on the …to the RACES TOUR and take a parade lap around the GP track on Saturday, Aug. 28, 2010. The Lap of Champions is limited to 300 motorcycles, so reserve your spot on the …to the RACES TOUR before it sells out. A portion of the tour price will be donated to Ride for Kids. 866-997-3305 • www.carolinamotorcyclerentals.com

JULY 2010 22-25 • MountainFest Motorcycle Rally, Morgantown, WV. 4-day pass includes access to all bands, attractions and entertainment. For details: www.wvmountainfest.com 23-25 • Carlisle Bike Fest is the Mid-Atlantic’s premier motorcycle event! Thousands of two-wheel fanatics will converge on the 102-acre Carlisle PA Fairgrounds for non-stop entertainment, an unbeatable motorcycle shopping experience, breathtaking and historic local rides, giveaways all weekend long and the chance to ride the latest models from manufacturers. The ride to the Carlisle PA Fairgrounds, located less than 200 miles from five metropolitan areas throughout the East Coast, is almost as much fun as the event itself. For more details: www.carsatcarlisle.com/ce/events/bikefest 23-25 • Empire BikeFest, Oswego Speedway, Oswego, NY. Taking place during Harborfest. For full details please visit www.empirebikefest.com

RISING WOLF GARAGE NYC EXCLUSIVE MOTORCYCLE PARKING FACILITY W e p r o v i d e a f r i e n d l y, c l e a n a n d s e c u r e environment for the motorcycle enthusiast

24 • Ride for Kids - Marysville, OH • www.rideforkids.org

Service Area

25 • Wurstboro HOG and O’Toole’s HD St. Jude’s Cancer Run. Sign in at 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com

Personal Storage

31 • Bergen Sport Cycle Bikini Bike Wash/Raffle. Noon to 4pm. FREE - donations welcome • 30 US Hwy 46 East, Lodi, NJ • www.bergensportcycle.com • 973-478-7711

Air Compressor

31 • Sport Honda Bike Club Day and Bike Wash. 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-906-9292 • www.sporthonda.net

Battery Charging

31 • One Year Open House Celebration at Mavrix Motorsports, 21 Dunning Rd, Middletown, NY. FUll Throdle Promotions Stunt Riders 11am to 4pm. Great Chicken BBQ, specials and demo rides • www.mavrixmotorsports.com • 845-344-2453 31/Aug. 1 • O’Toole’s HD has the Factory Demo Truck on-site. Dem rides 9am-4pm. 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com

AUGUST 2010 1 • Ride for Kids - Hudson Valley, NY • www.rideforkids.org 5 • COG Northeast Regional Summer Rally. The annual ‘Summer Bash’ rally returns to Vermont in lavish style at Mt. Snow Resort. Come ride the gaps of the Green Mountains and experience ‘sport-touring at it’s finest.’ Check the Concours Owners Group Northeast calendar of events at www.cog-online.org • 978-459-6275 7 • Curtiss Class Motorcycle Celebration. SR 54, Hammondsport, NY • 607-569-2160 • www.glenncurtissmuseum.org 8 • Ride for Kids - Pittsburgh, PA • www.rideforkids.org 12 • 5-8 pm • Bike Night at Cliff’s Cycle Revolution, 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT • 203-740-1279. Food, fun, DJ, door prizes, Giveaways, 50/50, car & bike awards and more • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com 12-15 • 33rd Annual Daniel Boone Rally & Vintage/Classic Ride-in. Three states, one rally. KOA Campground in Boone, NC - rain or shine. Ride Blue Ridge Parkway and High Country, Southwstern VA and NE TN . On-site rally fee: $40/pp. Pre-reg by Aug. 7: save 10%. Incl. 2 nites camping, catered BBQ dinner Sat., donut/coffee Sun., rally pin first

Monthly Parking Long & Short Term 24 Hour Access Video Surveillance

By Appointment Only East Village NYC Ph: 212 475 5858 Fx: 212 505 5205

risingwolfgarage@aol.com

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 49

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR 28 • O’Toole’s-A-Palooza Battle of the Bands at O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson, 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY. 20 bands starting at Noon; $25 reg. fee. Winner gets $500. Call Tom for full details at 845-699-3169 • www.otooleshd.com 28 • 2nd Annual Schenectady Thunder ARTBIKE Festival. State St, downtown Schenectady, NY. 11am-6pm. 3 live bands, photo exhibit, food, vendors, more • 518464-8933 29 • Ride for Kids - Asheville, NC • www.rideforkids.org 31-Sept. 3 • Curve Cowboy Reunion, Killington, VT. Gathering of K12LT, but open to all brands and models of motorcycle • www.curvecowboyreunion.com

SEPTEMBER 2010 3 • AMA Superbike Championship, New Jersey Motorsports Park, Millville, NJ. The most popular event in the short history of New Jersey Motorsports Park was last season’s debut of the AMA Pro Superbike Championship. Already one of the favorites on the series calendar, the event establishes a Labor Day tradition at NJMP for the series and Mid-Atlantic motorcycle race fans. www.njmotorsportspark.com 3-6 • Rolling Thru Vermont. All the magnificence of Americade but the size of a family reunion. Tours, lodging and special activities. www.rollingthruamerica.com

What’s Happenin’ 19 • 3rd Annual Ride for the Pride Poker Run to benefit Belvidere Lions Club. Sign in: Tramontin H-D, Exit 12 I-80, Hope, NJ. 9:30-11am. $20/rider incl. picnic/bbq with live music at Hotel Belvidere, Belvidere, NJ. Unescorted 80-mile scenic ride through Sussex/Warren Ctys. Cash prizes, door prizes, 50/50 drawing • 908-475-3418 • www.belviderelionsclub.com 19 • Ride for Kids - Philadelphia, PA • www.rideforkids.org 19 • 3rd Annual Pony Express MC Poker Run to benefit American Cancer Society. Sign in/endsite: My Place, 911 Little Britain Rd, New Windsor, NY. 9-11am. $20/rider; $35 two up. Food, door prizes, live music. Non-riders welcome at endsite at 1pm. $20/pp • www.ponyexpressmchv.net • PEMCHV@gmail.com • 845-361-4133 23-26 • Rolling Thru Maine. All the magnificence of Americade but the size of a family reunion. Tours, lodging and special activities. www.rollingthruamerica.com 25 • Cliff’s Cycle Revolution Vintage Days • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com • 203740-1279 • 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT. 26 • AMT Children of Hope Mystery Tour. Sign in/Endsite: Cedar Creek Park, 3340 E. Merrick Rd, Seaford, NY @ 10:30am. $20/bike+rider; $15/passenger. Chicken Wing contest, food and music. Prize for best poker hand. For more info:516-781-3511 • www.amtchildrenofhope.com

9-12 • Killington Classic Motorcycle Rally. Town of Killington. Vermont’s Premier Motorcycle Rally. For more info: www.killingtonclassic.com

26 • Ride for Kids - Baltimore/Washington, DC • www.rideforkids.org

12 • Lost Wheels MC 35th Annual Poker Run. Sign in: Dutchess Stadium, Rt. 9D, Fishkill, NY. 9-11:30am. AMA: $23; non-AMA: $25; Under 15: $10. Endsite: Canopus Lake Beach Area, Fahnestock St. Park, Carmel, NY. Live entertainment by Guys Night Out, vendors, food, 50/50, door prizes, trophies, games, ride-in bike show. Awards for Best Rep Club, games, bike show and poker hands • www.lostwheels.com

7 • COG Northeast Regional Fall Rally. Natural Bridge, Virginia offers first class accomodations and great sport-touring riding. For more information check the Concours Owners Group Northeast calendar of events at www.cog-online.org • 540-582-9414

12 • 2nd Annual Poker Lime Run to benefit Multiple Sclerosis. Sign in: Baer Sport Center, 330 Grandview Ave, Honesdale, PA or Masonic Harmony Lodge #8, 519 Rte. 206, Andover Twnshp, NJ. 9am-Noon. $20/pp. Scenic ride through the Delaware Valley/Kittatiny Range to Walpack Inn for a fantastic meal. Live music and prizes for top hands and best times • 570-253-2000 • 973-948-3890

24 • American Spirit MC Annual Tombstone Tour to benefit Hicksville Post of the Veterans of Foreign Wars. Sign in: VFW Hall, 320 So. Broadway, Hicksville, NY – 9 to 10am. $20/rider; $10/pass. Food, music, prizes • www.americanspiritmcinc.com • 516-485-8270

12 • Larz Anderson Classic European Motorcycle Day, Brookline, MA 17-19 • 3rd Annual Boxer Shorts at Snow Farm Rally. Limited to 40 private double rooms, this spouse-friendly artist retreat center near the Berkshires at Snow Farm in Williamsburg, MA. Great roads and legalized off-roading in nearby October Mtn. State Forest. $140/pp includes full breakfast Sat/Sun and fancy dinner Sat. Pre-reg deadline Aug. 15. For more info and mailing address email vcruz@mediapr.net 17-19 • MotoGiro USA. Finger Lakes Region, NY. Headquarters TBD. For more info: Karl Smolenski and Alia Howard • ksmolenski@yahoo.com • www.motogiro-usa.com

OCTOBER 2010

17 • Ride for Kids - Knoxville, TN • www.rideforkids.org

JULY 2011 17-24 • Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice. For all the information you’ll need to book this great trip, please email Doris at Edelweiss Travel: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com

Rider Education Of New Jersey Inc.

Basic Course • $250.00 Experienced Course • $100.00

The Program with the Most Experience in Motorcycle Training in NJ

Call Today for Information and Schedule

1-800-8WE-RIDE Register Online at

www.renj.com MSF & NJ Approved DMV Road Test Waived* (Certain Restriction Apply)

*Rider Education of New Jersey, Inc. has been approved by the Motor Vehicle Commission to offer the New Jersey Motorcycle Safety Education Course.

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 50

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS

Z900.US ACCESSORIES FOR THE FANS OF LEGENDARY KAWASAKI MUSCLEBIKE

THE

Which slogan could better describe the first real musclebike of all times which was introduced

by Kawasaki back in 1972? The high-quality black T-shirts and hoodie shirts with white lettering are available exclusively from the www.Z900.us online shop. The shirts are available in sizes S through 3XL. Retail prices start at 20Euros plus 5Euros for shipping and handling. The accessory range also contains Z1, Z900 and Z1000 BOULEVARD street signs and a US-Style “Z1 PARKING ONLY” sign.

SUMMER CATALOG

FROM

WHITEHORSE GEAR

Just recently we spent some time with Dan, Judy and crew at Whitehorse GEAR’s very large factory store in Center Conway, New Hampshire. The place is a virtual candy store for riders and if you are ever in the region you must stop by. For those of you who can’t this summer we recommend the next best thing; simply give them a call and they will send you their Summer 2010 catalog. You can reach them by phone at 800-531-1133 or on the web at whitehorsegear.com.

Ask Jeff for the secret Steely Dan line of the day and if you guess the album Jeff will personally wash your ride!

NEW H-D TOURING RUBBER

The new Cobra has been designed to sustain heavier loads over long distances as a result of a triple-belted, six-ply construction.

For improved handling and stability, the new Cobra utilizes an advanced sport touring tire technology with a solid rubber block tread design that virtually eliminates irregular wear and also extends tire life. For improved reliability and responsiveness when braking in wet conditions, the new Cobra features an Inverted Front Groove (IFG) tread design, while the unique “snakeskin” sidewall design delivers the ultimate style. For more information, visit www.avonmoto.com/products/cruiser-touringcustom/cobra or call (800) 624-7470.

FROM

AVON

BACKROADS gladly accepts press releases.

Please forward text and images via email to editor@backroadsusa.com

We Loveles! c Motorcy

Group Welcoms e!

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 51

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS

MOTOEQUIP REFLECTIVE VINYL TAPE KITS EASY NIGHT TIME CONSPICUITY

MotoEquip Reflective Vinyl Tape Kits use 3M Scotchlite vinyl tape exclusively.

The motorcycle kits use engineer-grade, 7-mil, 7-year black reflective tape.

Helmet kits are available in either black or silver, and wheel kits are silver.

All kits are computer cut for a beautifully detailed precision fit. Each kit comes complete with installation instructions, and in most cases an installation diagram to help make sure the product looks great on your bike. And, with MotoEquip kits, you get more reflective area for the money than with competing products. Price range from $19.95 to $29.95 depending on application. Available from cyclegadgets.com.

NEW AEROSTICH COTTON SHORTS

These comfy 100% cotton shorts are great for wearing under a riding suit or for relaxing with friends after a long ride. Made of a mid-weight comfy brushed cotton twill that gets more comfy with each laundering. An elastic waistband and adjustable front belt ensure a comfy fit. Two side pockets hold stuff. Go commando. Ride comfy. Black or Green. We make these ourselves, right alongside the Roadcrafters. M (32-34), L (34-36), XL (36-38), XXL (38-40), XXXL (40-42) Specify 9” inseam (pictured) or the risqué 6” inseam. #2859 $37.00. To get a free catalog, call 800-2221994 or email catalog@aerostich.com.

HOT TOPPERS - GUARANTEED

Hot Toppers® offers a variety of engine starter kits that gives you the bolt coverage you need and want. These kits cover your engine, trasmission, primary and more! They have three styles to choose from; chrome, black or chrome skull!

Hot Toppers® will give you the chrome look you want without the rust. They enhance the look of your motorcycle without the cost of expensive teardown required to replace your existing hardware. Best of all, Hot Toppers are guaranteed for life - if they fall off or the chrome peels, blisters, fades or discolors - they replace it free! For more info visit www.hottoppers.com

Line ‘em up!

Barnsider Restaurant at the

A DAY TRIPPER’S DREAM Member

Cozy Bar Comfortable Tables Great Burgers Hearty Steak Chicken & Shrimp

OPEN 11AM • TUES-SUN

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1372 Kings Hwy, Sugar Loaf, NY

(845) 469-9810

www.barnsider.net

SUSSEXMOTORSPORTS 446 Route 23 • Sussex, NJ • Located across from the A&P Shopping Plaza

973-875-3640 •

Open Tuesday thru Saturday

Visit us at www.sussexmotorsportsnj.com

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 52

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE Dual Sport Adventures Guided Instructional Tours

Lodging & Bike Packages Motorcycle Rentals

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

in the Smoky Mountains www.GSMmotoRent.com Townsend, TN 865-448-6090 Plan your trip now for 2010

Self-Guided Tours

WWW.MICATECH.NET • 1.888.464.6494

Premium Aluminum Luggage Handbuilt in the USA

Micatech V2 Cases!

Exceptional Quality and Outstanding Customer Service

www.beemerboneyard.com USED OILHEAD & K-BIKE PARTS Hundreds of used parts at 50% off new cost or less Order online 24/7 ~ M/C, Visa, Discover or PayPal 100% money-back guarantee ~ parts ship in 24 hours

Now Available for: BMW F800/650GS Twin BMW G650/F650GS Single R1150GS/R1150GSA R1200GS/R1200GSA Suzuki V-Strom 650/1000 Kawasaki KLR 650 + Triumph Tiger We Make a Strong Case for Adventure Touring

LEGAL HELP? MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT?

N EW MAINTENANCE PART ~ BELOW RETAIL

• Car Accident • Work Accident • Criminal Matter

No Backorders ~ We Stock What We Sell

• Drunk Driving • Speeding Tickets • Traffic Violations

We now carry German Liqui-Moly Engine & Gear Oil for BMWs

973-775-3495 • M-F 10am~5pm • inquires@beemerboneyard.com

I Have Recovered Millions for My Clients - Let Me Help You No Fee If No Recovery • No Fee to Talk on Any Legal Issue

MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION Just fill out the simple form and mail it along with payment (gotta pay the Postman) to:

Backroads, PO Box 317, Branchville, NJ 07826 First Class Postage $40/12 issues • Comes in a protective envelope We accept checks, Visa, MasterCard or Discover. Please indicate which card is used.

NAME ______________________________________________________________ ADDRESS ____________________________________________________________ CITY/STATE/ZIP __________________________________________________________ CREDIT CARD # ________________________________EXP. DATE ______SECURITY # ________

Don’t Miss An Issue! Mail Your Subscription in TODAY! If you have moved, please use this form to inform us of your change of address ❏ New Subscription

❏ New Address

Will Come to You if Unable to Come to Office

Andrew S. Prince, Esq. New Jersey Attorney for New Jersey Bikers

Call 732-396-1800 or 1-800-WHEEL-02 www.andrewprince.com • APrinceesq@aol.com

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

Page 53

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS DAYTONA, BIKETOBERFEST, STURGIS AND BEYOND SALES RENTALS

BARN TRAILERS 718-426-7039

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www.stopngo.com The Best Tire Repair.

Know Before You Go! 800-747-0238

GenMar HANDLEBAR RISERS

KAWASAKI • HONDA • YAMAHA • SUZUKI • TRIUMPH • MOTO GUZZI • ETC Raise your handlebars for a more comfortable ride and still retain stock look.

From $59.95 to $139.95 Order Toll Free (877) 471-1515 Info and Fax (505) 743-2243 • www.zianet/GenMar

Gen Mar Mfg. Inc. • 110 1st Street • HC1 Box 35 • Arrey, NM 87930

NEW LOCATION Long Island’s Premiere Motorcycle Outfitters Motorcycle Parts Accessories • Apparel Brand names you know and trust from a dealer that you can count on for EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE.

Ready Riders, LLC 15 East Deer Park Road, Dix Hills, NY Across from Dix Hills Diner

631-262-0600 • www.readyriders.com

If you didn’t like cool stuff, you wouldn’t be reading this magazine.

Here’s something you’re going to love.

EASY RIDER MOTORCYCLE RENTALS Located at Yamaha-Suzuki-CanAm-Victory of Mineola

Daily - Weekly - Monthly Rentals

TORQ-IT Screwdriver/Speed Wrench/ Palm Ratchet All In One Tool Variable Speeds Over 600RPM Low Profile, with an “Ergo” Grip and a Non-Slip Design Accepts All 3/8” and 1/4” Sockets and Extensions

BASIC SET: $19.95 • DELUXE SET: $29.95 • ACCESORY SET: $9.95

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516-248-5555 • www.ezriderrentals.com 336 Jericho Turnpike, Mineola, NY 11501

Featuring Victory, Yamaha and Suzuki Motorcycles

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 54

B A C K R O A D S M O T O - I N N M E M B E R S • G R E AT P L A C E S lley’s Hudson Va ne Riding Number O t Restauran Barbeque W North 1076 Route 9 mery, NY Fort Montgo

oute 9W icturesque R P n o d te ca o L Perkins Drive minutes from State Park and Harriman t Point historic Wes just south of

Cakes by the Lake

E AT 88 Windermere Ave, Greenwood Lake, NY 845-477-2080

The World’s Most Motorcycle-Friendly Bakery

Stop by for coffee and cake before or after your ride

Featured in July 2009 Great All American Diner Run

845-446-0912 rmerbbq.com www.barnsto

The Boat House Restaurant

TO

If you go home hungry it’s your own fault

Ask about our Diners Club.

Gift Cards available.

‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang

Member

The Only Outdoor Lakeside Dining on Swartswood Lake

IT MUST BE GETTING WARM BECAUSE…

BIKE NIGHT AT THE CHATTERBOX IS BACK! THURSDAY NIGHTS • GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES Serving Lunch and Dinner Tuesday thru Sunday 11am - 9pm

Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

www.chatterboxdrivein.com

Closed Mondays

1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood, NJ 973-300-0016

www.theboathouserestaurantonline.com

320 Front Street Belvidere, NJ

Huckleberry’s BBQ

www.thisilldous.com • 908-475-2274 Member

Best Kept Secret in Greenwood Lake Enormous Breakfasts on Weekends

Enjoy quaint Victorian Belvidere and scenic Warren County

Belly-Busting Lunch and Dinner

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983

As Seen in Backroads’ June 2010

Breakfast • Lunch • Espresso Cafe Ice Cream and Dessert • Catering Off-Premise Worth the ride from anywhere!

Open Daily 7am to 4pm • Sunday 7am to 1pm Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday Thisilldous is New Jersey’s best kept secret. Maybe the best luncheonette in the State • Star Ledger

37 Oak Street, Greenwood Lake, NY • 845-477-4737 • www.huckleberrysbbq.com

The Riverton

123 Bantam Lake Rd.

Travel along the scenic backroads of the Delaware river.

Meet the Markopoulos family and taste chef George’s Greek American cooking.

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Motorcycling Adventures in the Philippines The Philippines is a chain of 7,000 tropical islands in Southeast Asia that conjure up images of palm trees and white sand beaches but I thought it would be a perfect place for motorcycling. An internet search lead to Motorcycle Adventure Tours Philippines (adventuretoursphilippines.com).

For a single rider, they suggested a series of day trips from their headquarters in Dumaguete City in the Negros Oriental province. For $115 a day, MATPI provided a bike, fuel, third party insurance, entrance fees to attractions, a helmet, and a guide with knowledge of the area.

Once in Dumaguete, I met with my tour guide Greg. After the paperwork, we reviewed the schedule. We would start out the next day and drive South to Tambobo Bay. The second day we would take a ferry to Siquijor Island and spend two nights. Then back to Dumaguete to ride north to Twin Lakes. he final day would be a ride to a geothermic area called PNOC. Greg stressed to always be on our toes. Though we were sticking to known safe areas, the Philippines can be dangerous. Greg, who is Australian, and I would stick out like sore thumbs. The idea was to be low key and never tell anyone where we are going. Poverty is common in the Philippines, especially in the provinces where we were heading. We had to carry cash in case Words and images: Christopher A. Bowling

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one of the bikes broke down. Motorbikes are common in the Philippines so we could always find someone to fix a bike, but they wouldn’t be accepting credit cards. It wasn’t a lot of cash, maybe $100-$150 each, but to some poor shagger it could be 6 months’ salary. No need to tempt anyone by flashing cash.

A bike was delivered to my hotel the next morning. There are few big bikes in the Philippines. There was the occasional 200cc dual sport bike, but most are under 125cc. People in the USA would call them scooters. My bike was a Honda XRM, a dual sport bike with a 110cc 4 stroke air cooled engine. It is built and sold only in the Philippines and designed for their rugged roads. The XRM had a step through frame and a clutch-less 4 speed rotary transmission. The shift pattern was the reverse of what I used on my bike at home. Out of habit I occasionally found myself downshifting when I wanted to up shift and vice versa. The XRM is lightweight, comfortable and durable, all desirable qualities because as Greg said, the Philippines have some fan-

tastic places to see but you have to take some really crappy roads to get to them.

It takes a while getting used to driving in a new country on an unfamiliar machine. Filipinos drive on the right side of the

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road but there is a lack of traffic lights and traffic rules. Intersections are chaotic because vehicles just mesh together. Dumaguete isn’t that big, but there were a lot of vehicles haphazardly squeezing through narrow streets. There were an excessive number of bikes riding through a canyon of parked scooters lining either side of the street. Right before I arrived, the area experienced some unseasonably heavy rains which caused severe flooding and damage. We had to make detours as we encountered sections of road that were missing or had debris and mounds of mud lying about. This created traffic bottlenecks. Once out of the city, the main highway south was decently paved and showed little effects from the rain. Traffic was light and I was treated to a great view of the Bohol Sea to the left and some tropical mountain peaks to the right as we rode through small towns and villages. The sky looked threatening, but rain had been minimal. It was hard to concentrate on the road with so much scenery.

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After riding for an hour, we turned onto a nondescript looking dirt road. Greg said we would take this road to Tambobo Bay, which he described as a place where “rich guys parked their yachts.” It was a fun ride as the road snaked through open fields and jungle and eventually ending up at Tambobo Bay, which indeed had some yachts anchored it in.

The road turned parallel to the water and went through a bamboo hut village. We stopped at a bayside restaurant and had a delicious lunch of chicken adobo, a famous Filipino dish. Tambobo would have been a great place to stay, as the entire village was very laid back with a relaxing atmosphere. After lunch, we backtracked to the main highway. From there we took back roads through the countryside to Dumaguete. Our journey ended at my hotel. The plan was to meet the next morning to ferry over to Siquijor Island.

The weather was cloudy and overcast in the morning. Greg rented some bikes on Siquijor so we didn’t have to take ours on the ferry. The Port of Dumaguete was a quick taxi ride from the hotel and once there, we were informed the Coast Guard grounded all ferries due to a typhoon in the north. There were only two ferries running to Siquijor Island each day so we were hoping the afternoon ferry would go as scheduled. Then we did what most Filipinos do when they had time to kill...we ate and drank. Dumaguete has a seaside boulevard near the port with quite a few places to eat.

Greg and I killed a couple of

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

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hours at a Mexican restaurant, drinking cold beer and checking out the parade of traffic and people before our patio table. The Coast Guard cleared the afternoon ferry for departure but by the time we got to Siquijor and checked into our hotel, we would not have time to do any riding that day.

Siquijor is a small island off the coast of Dumaguete. A fast ferry takes about 45 minutes to get there. Siquijor Island has a reputation among the Filipinos as being a placed filled with witches and shamans. It is called the Isle of Fire due to fireflies giving the island a mysterious glow in the fading light. It has some fantastic beach resorts and traffic was minimal.

Our hotel was the Coco Grove Beach Resort and its seaside-wooded facilities were absolutely beautiful. Due to the late start, Greg and I spent the balance of the day at one of the ocean side bars regaling each other with stories of motorcycles and international travel.

The next day we started out early to explore the island. I was now riding a 125cc XRM. It was a pleasure riding on the island with its minimal traffic and good roads. Our first stop was the town of Lazi, at a Catholic church that was built by the Spaniards some 300 years ago. The next stop was Cambugahay waterfalls for a refreshing swim in a nice lagoon of clear blue water. Then we rode through some winding jungle roads and began to

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ascend up some hills which provided fantastic vistas. The XRM performed admirably and had enough power to take the hills, as long as you remember the reverse gear pattern and didn’t do anything stupid like shift to 4th gear when you wanted to downshift to 2nd gear.

The next destination was Bandilaan Nature Park. The higher up we got, the worse the roads were but they were still two track jungle dirt roads that didn’t have a lot of rocks or mud. Greg located the trail that lead to the island’s highest point where there was a small observation tower at the top. The trail was quite slick and it took some huffing and puffing to get to the top. The view was disappointing because the sky was overcast and visibility wasn’t that good. We spent several more miles driving the mountain jungle road and eventually descended onto a plain filled with rice paddies. Water buffalo

were tethered by the side of the road and the rope had enough slack to let them wander into traffic. Looking at the size of those buffalo, I think the bike and I would get the worse end of any collision! It began to rain but I had on quick drying clothes and waterproof boots, so I skipped the

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

fun evening. The Filipinos know how to party and have a good time!

Our last day on Siquijor brought sunny and pleasant weather. We started early to ride as much as possible before the 4pm ferry. Greg suggested we explore some unknown roads to see what they were like. He said

rain gear. The cool rain would be refreshing in the tropical humidity (though the Filipinos were commenting on how “cold” it was!) It was getting dark so the day ended with us taking the long way back to the hotel and getting some more views of regular village life on the island. That evening we checked out a local band playing at a nearby bar and had a

a few may be “a bit challenging” which meant they were filled with bone jarring rocks and loose gravel. We headed to the island interior and began to climb some mountains. An XRM will never be challenging any

speed records, but you can tackle the rugged uphill climbs at a steady and determined pace. It was nice not worrying with a clutch or stalling the bike when you are concentrating on not falling over. We took whatever road looked interesting. We rode dirt paths through small clusters

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looking forwarded to more great riding in the Philippines.

The next day the coast had blue sky but the mountains had dark, menacing looking thunderheads. Guess which direction we were heading? The plan was to ride to a place in the mountains called Twin Lakes. The only way there was a 8.5 mile road characterized by Greg as being

of island villages. We took paved roads winding through groves of coconut trees and hard packed roads that ran along the coast line and ended at hidden picnic grounds.

Every turn contained extraordinary tropical sights. The day went by quickly and before long we had to return our bikes and catch the ferry back in Dumaguete. I turned in early

“a little bit difficult” with a few “rough patches here and there” which meant we would be hammered by rocks and ruts. We rode out of Dumaguete and followed the coastline north. After a few miles we came to the Twin Lakes road and there was a squad of Army soldiers stationed at the entrance. Greg located the commander and asked if we would be permitted to go up to the lakes. We were concerned about any political groups looking for a couple of Western hostages to hold for ransom. The soldiers assured us the road was safe and we could head up if we wanted.

Initially, the road up the mountain was paved and smooth. On the ascent we stopped for picturesque vistas of the mountainous valleys and the Bohol Sea. The mountains in the background were very steep and green with peaks

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covered in clouds. The closer we got to the park, the rougher the road was.

It would alternate between patches of smooth pavement, hard pack dirt road, rock strewn trails, and some really thick mud. The recent rains caused landslides that deposited a thick layer of sticky mud in places. We passed some workers who had the job of repairing the road and they did it the old fashioned way, with a sturdy back and a shovel. No heavy equipment was available out in the provinces. After a bone jarring and messy ride we arrived at the lakes. I was thankful it wasn’t raining because it would have been one dangerous and slippery mess going up or down that road. The lakes’ water

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

levels were so high, all the trails were submerged which scuttled our hiking plan. An impromptu planning session resulted in deciding to head back towards Dumaguete. Greg suggested that we do some exploring. He had a map and there were a couple of roads he wanted to take to see if there was anything interesting on them. I was up for it. It was a good way to see things most tourists don’t see.

Once on the coastal highway, we pulled over for some gas. Greg said there was a side road ahead that he was never on and that it might be “a bit challenging,” which meant I was in for some heavy duty off-roading. For several miles it was a nice cruise through the Philippine countryside, encountering little traffic and the occasional village. The further we drove, the rougher the roads. We stopped on a curve and Greg indicated the direction we wanted to take was a muddy goat path running through some farmer’s yard. A local resident confirmed the “road” would lead us to Dumaguete, but no one ever uses a motorbike on it. In

hindsight I knew why. It was a sloppy, muddy and narrow trail with big hidden rocks that could stop your front wheel and send you flying over the handlebars.

We spent over two hours slowly making our way down the trail. Going fast down such a mess was asking for a trip to the hospital. We were in remote country as we didn’t pass any huts for quite some time. On a rest stop, Greg made the comment that “if we had a mechanical out here, we would be in a bit of a spot.” I was thinking more like we would be royally screwed.

A few places I had to get off and push my bike through a maze of muddy rocks. We passed a field of grazing cows and even they looked at us like we were crazy.

It took a while to go down the path but the road got easier and we were heading back to civilization. We pulled over to get our bearing on the map and it appeared Dumaguete was a short ride away. Before long I would be back at the hotel having a beer. But once again, things don’t always go as planned in the Philippines. We rode a few miles, turned to cross a river and we ran into a problem. The bridge spanning the river was missing a huge section. We guided our

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2010

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bikes to the edge of the bridge to assess the situation. There were quite a few locals milling about, the bridge wipeout was probably the most interesting thing that happened in a while. One of them said the recent rains caused the bridge to give way. The bridge was at least 40 feet above a rocky river bed with a wide section of hard flowing rapids. There was no way to walk the bikes across the river. Some wood scaffolding was set up to support two narrow boards that connected each side. This makeshift repair was used to walk from side to side.

The locals said the only options to Dumaguete were back up the goat path or to walk our bikes across the makeshift bridge. Neither option looked too appealing. It was getting close to evening and Greg said we definitely did not want to be caught out in the countryside when it was dark. There were recent reports of people being robbed on back roads at night. Going back up the goat path would involve riding in the dark on the muddy, sloppy, rock filled trail. Walking our bikes across the boards would be a lot quicker and we would be back in Dumaguete in no time. It was not risk-free as a tumble off the side would guarantee a trip to the hospital or possibly the morgue. We ended up paying a couple dollars to two experienced men to walk the bikes across. Soon we were cruising down a nice paved highway to Dumaguete. The day ended with a drive through rush hour in Dumaguete. It was a smoky ride, as many residents had fires burning to keep mosquitoes down. Overall, it was a very satisfying but tiring day.

I was amazed at how physical off road riding is. I slept well that night.

The last day of riding brought sunshine, heat and humidity. We were riding to the Filipino-AmericanJapanese Amity Shrine, then ending the day with a ride to PNOC, an area near a geothermal power station operated by the Philippine National Oil Company, hence the PNOC moniker. Once outside the busy streets of Dumaguete, we were on nice paved roads leading to some impressive looking mountain peaks and the Japanese shrine. During World War II, in order to monitor ship movements, the Japanese occupied a strategic mountain point that gave them a sweeping view of the sea of Bohol. Greg said to expect some “rough patches” on the way up to the monument. If he thought they were rough, I knew a spleen-bruising ride was ahead. Initially, it was a peaceful and smooth ride through some jungle but it soon turned into a very rocky trail. The roads don’t look that rough in photos but we were on scooters with a bit of a beefed up suspension. The road would have been no problem for a dirt bike with 12 inches of ground clearance and 18 inches of travel on the front forks. An XRM doesn’t have that and you tend to feel every bump. We began the climb to the Shrine and it became an effort in trying to find a passable line through the loose rocks while still trying to stay up straight. A few times I was nearly bounced off my bike. Validating what Greg stated earlier, these crappy roads did lead to some impressive scenes. From the Shrine were great panoramic views of the steep mountain peaks, green valleys and the expansive blue waters of the Bohol Sea. We then saddled up and headed down the mountain to make our way to PNOC for a swim.

After several miles of jungle road riding, we came to an exposed ridge that had steam shooting out. It looked like riding through hell, in fact it

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was hot enough to be hell! We pulled over to examine the crosscut.

The area had the unmistakable odor of sulfur, which is always present around naturally occurring geothermal activity. There was a small stream of boiling water running alongside the road and a quick finger stuck in it verified that it was indeed hot water. Hanging out by a steaming mass of dirt that seeped boiling hot water in the hot tropical sun gets old quickly. After snapping a few pictures, we were off in search of the waterfalls for that refreshing swim.

We arrived at the waterfalls, but once again our plans were altered as the recent rains wreaked havoc there as well. The rain forced a lot of rocks and mud to slide down the falls into the pool at the bottom. There was no swimming that day or any day in the near future. So we saddled up and hit the road. It was getting late in the day, so we took a leisurely-paced ride on some back roads to Dumaguete. I relished my last miles of riding in the Philippines. Passing through small villages and groves of coconut trees, I

AUGUST 2010 • BACKROADS

enjoyed taking in the last views of the impressive mountain peaks and the dirt roads winding through the jungle. Before long we were in Dumaguete and I turned my bike in and that was the end of my riding adventure.

As far as the Philippines experience, all I can say is if you have a chance to go there, take it. If you can do some riding there you will love it. The Philippines can be as off road as you want it to be. The XRM is a fine machine, but it isn’t a full-fledged dirt bike. Don’t write it off as a toy scooter, you can still have a lot of fun on it and it will take you where you want to go. If you prefer paved roads, there are plenty of them too, though the natural scenery may not be as impressive as the off road sites. There is a lot to see in the Philippines. The scenery is fantastic, the beaches are like paradise, the food is good, the beer is cold, the prices are favorable, and the people are very friendly and polite. The Philippines can be dangerous, almost every business in the city had armed guards.

But I always felt comfortable in Dumaguete and never felt I was in any danger but it is always good to have what Greg called “situational awareness.”

No matter what country you are in. Happy riding.