6 minute read
WE’RE OUTTA HERE
from August 2022
Beach’s Motorcycle Adventures presents
WE’RE OUTTA HERE
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ST. SIMON ISLAND ESCAPE ALONG GEORGIA’S COAST
Off the coast of Georgia, there are a number of islands. A group of four in the southern part of the state are known as the Golden Isles.
You will nd these four tucked away just south of Savannah and north of the Florida state line. Their names are Sea Island, Jekyll Island, St. Simons and Little St. Simons Island, and along with the mainland city of Brunswick make up a most excellent region to explore on two wheels (or four in February).
The four islands and their adjacent mainland port city boast ancient maritime forests, picturesque historic landmarks, restaurants teeming with local seafood, and more and a long shopping list of interesting places to go and experience.
We headed down to this part of the Peach Tree State in mid-February, looking to escape a bit of winter and to revisit this area that we had touched and written about many years back.
Affable live-oak, leaning low,
Thus with your favor -soft, with a reverent hand, (Not lightly touching your person, Lord of the land!)
Bending your beauty aside, with a step I stand
On the rm-packed sand,
Free
By a world of marsh that borders a world of sea.
Our home base for the next few days would be St. Simons, the largest of the Golden Isles. St. Simons Island lies across the immortalized Marshes of Glynn, made famous by poet Sidney Lanier.
On these islands moss-draped oaks line the winding island streets, creating a picture-perfect image worthy of a Faulkner tale.
These trees stunned and enthralled us both and we took more images of these trees than just about anything else over the next few days.
Lainer was right, they are the Lords of this Land.
The southern part of the island is dominated by the lighthouse and pier which made for an excellent place to take in the bookends of each day – sunrise and sunset.
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
ST. SIMONS ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE
At 104 feet, the St. Simons Island Lighthouse was built in 1872 and is the oldest brick building in Glynn County. Alongside it is the keeper’s dwelling. Exhibits inside the lighthouse keeper’s dwelling highlight local history and tell the stories of the families who operated the light.
Climb the 129 steps to the top of the Lighthouse for a breathtaking view of St. Simons Sound and of neighboring Jekyll Island, Brunswick’s mainland, and the south end of St. Simons Island.
WORLD WAR IIHOME FRONT MUSEUM
On the far side of the island, you will nd the World War II Home Front Museum. We found this museum fascinating and the “Storytellers” who were there equally so.
Originally a U.S. Coast Guard Station, this building has been completely restored and renovated to re ect the tremendous efforts by Coastal Georgia during World War II.
The Nazis brought World War II to Georgia when a German U-boat sank three ships off the coast on April 8th, 1942. Prowling the waters off St. Simons island in U-123, German Lt. Commander Reinhard Hardegen spotted the oil tanker Oklahoma silhouetted against the glowing shore off St. Simons Island. His torpedo ran hot and true. The blast sank the ship and shattered windows in Brunswick. He also sank the Esso Baton Rouge and a third ship the next morning before moving south. Twenty-three crewmen were killed, and Georgians panicked as rumors spread of Germans landing on the coast.
Survivors were brought to this very same Coast Guard Station.
Georgia and Georgians quickly answered the call to defend the nation.
Along the coast, German U-Boats reeked constant chaos and you might be surprised to know that more Americans died along the east coast of the United States during the war than we lost at Pearl Harbor.
The museum is lled with interactive exhibits that offer an exciting look at life during wartime in the Golden Isles. They had a variety of hands-on exhibits and activities such as navigating pilot squadrons, joining the crew and building a Liberty ship, and even plane spotting.
FORT FREDERICA
Not far from the museum was what we thought was one of the most amazing historic sites we have seen in a long time, Fort Frederica.
In the early 1700s, Georgia was the epicenter of a centuries-old con ict between Spain and Britain. In 1736, three years after the founding of Savannah, James Oglethorpe established Fort Frederica to protect his southern boundary. 44 men and 72 women and children arrived to build the fort and town, and by the 1740s Frederica was a thriving village of about 500 citizens. Colonists from England, Scotland, and the
Germanic states came to Frederica to support the endeavor. Georgia’s fate was decided in 1742 when Spanish and British forces clashed on St. Simons Island. Fort Frederica’s troops defeated the Spanish in the Battle of Bloody Marsh, ensuring Georgia’s future as a British colony.
Today, the archeological remnants of Frederica are protected by the National Park Service, open daily 9:00 am – 5:00 pm. There is no longer an entrance fee to enter the park. Ranger-led tours and soldier/colonial life programs throughout the year recall life in Georgia’s second town. The park visitor center features exhibits and an orientation lm, which is shown every 30 minutes.
The grounds are stunning and the Oak Trees truly rule here. Along the water are the remnants of the old fort. Much of the building materials – mostly a local seashell concrete concoction called Tabby - were pilfered for other buildings. Still, how the park service presents this incredibly important part of Georgia and America’s history is wonderfully done and not to be missed. Shira spent some time searching out the Tree Spirits on the island, carved by artist Keith Jennings. Each one is special and different. St. Simons has several great restaurants and ice cream joints and their pool hall Rafters is a fun way to end the evening. While there a day road trip to Brunswick and Jekyll Island is in order. Brunswick has one of the oldest Oaks in the region called the Lovers Oak – which we visited on Valentine’s Day, how apropos - and lunch at Twin Oaks BBQ is a must. Really – A MUST!
Cross over the long causeway to Jekyll Island. It was on this island that a secret meeting of the richest men in America happened in 1913 and what they covertly created became the rst draft of the Federal Reserve Act.
The Driftwood Beach is well worth seeking out – especially at dawn or dusk.
For us, it was time to revisit the Georgia Sea Turtle Center. Georgia’s only sea turtle rehabilitation, research, and education facility provides state-of-the-art emergency care to sick and injured sea turtles. Taking in the center and especially the hospital where sea turtles are treated and rehabilitated is very, very special.
With their superb combination of scenic location, deep history, delicious restaurants, and easy-going feel these islands make for a wonderful two-wheel adventure and are well worth the visit. ,