September 2017

BACKROADS FALL FIESTA UPDATE HONDA’S AFRICA TWIN ROAD TESTED

RIDE • EAT • SLEEP • DISCOVER

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS FREE WHEELIN’ ...........................................................4

29

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ....................................................6 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE ...............................8 ON THE MARK .............................................................9 BACKLASH.................................................................10

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Dana Beisner, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

INDUSTRY INFOBITES..............................................12 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA...........................................15

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 317 Branchville NJ 07826

BIG CITY GETAWAY ..................................................17 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN .......................19 WE’RE OUTTA HERE.................................................22

38

I KNOW THIS PLACE .................................................25 INSIDE SCOOP ..........................................................26 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE.....................................54 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ............................56

FE AT U RE S RIDING NOVA SCOTIA .............................................29 ROUND WE GO - CLASS MC SCHOOL ...................46 BACKROADS FALL FIESTA UPDATE .......................52

MOTO R C YCL E R E V I E WS

46

HONDA AFRICA TWIN ..............................................38 HONDA GROM..........................................................41

PR O DU C T R E V IE W S KURYAKYN GRAND PET PALACE ...........................14 CONTI TRAILATTACK 2 TIRES..................................44 DUNLOP ROADSMART III TIRES .............................45 JOURNEY TO THE END OF THE WORLD .................50 TOUR MASTER TRINITY BOOTS .............................51

ON THE COVER: Riding down MacKenzie Mountain in scenic Nova Scotia

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2017. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

The Man & The Kid….

The small group of young riders was lined up along the driveway of a row house in Jackson Heights, Queens. The year? 1978.

One kid was on his knees busily at work as he was attempting to drill the four baffles out of his stock 1973 Kawasaki 900 Z-1 mufflers. The bike was perfectly stock back then – root beer and orange, clean, low mileage. One of those special bikes that was surely not built on a Monday morning – it would go on to rule weekends at Connecting Highway for a number of years. It would also be the cause of a few license suspensions.

If you wanna play, you might have to pay.

Looking back nearly 40 years I wish I could have been there to stop him and stay his hand from this unnecessary surgery. Sure the Z-1 sounded a bit tougher and, truth be told, it did have a bit more oomph, but in those days it was just like adding gasoline on a really hot fire. The machine was heads above the rest in the mid-70s.

Still, it was not like somebody didn’t try to stop him.

The young New York City moto-cop was at the light on 69th Street, watching what was going on and, when the light changed, he rolled over, parked his Harley and strolled over to the group – who were VERY aware that a Highway 3 was headed their way.

“Hey guys,” the officer said in a mild tone. He had about ten years on them.

“What’s going on?” The crowd of riders nodded back, not sure how to reply to the perceived nemesis. Usually talking with Highway 3, “The Man,” meant paperwork and cash.

“You drilling out the baffles of this beautiful machine?” he asked. The kid doing the work thought, ‘Crap, I can’t get in trouble for this, can I?’ The moto-cop went on to explain that not only did it just make the bike noisier, the added noise was really not worth any added engine performance.

“Why do you guys have to be loud anyway? It just draws unwanted attention to you and really pisses off the civilians to no end!”

This gaggle of young turk riders let the cop go on. Like, who was going to interrupt him? And, maybe something he was saying was ringing a small gong of truth here too.

Eventually there was a give and take between the moto cop and the riders.

It turned out he wasn’t just riding motorcycles for New York City, but was an avid riding enthusiast himself, owing a Norton Commando and a Kawasaki Z-1.

Nice. Maybe he was just like them - but had a badge, gun and a Harley police bike.

I have always remembered this conversation and dwelled on it time and again, as that young kid attempting a bafflectomy was me.

Years later I wish I could go back and relive that moment, for it took a little while for me to realize that my bike and I were not the most important things on the planet and that it was a privilege to ride on public streets. With that privilege came some accountability and the need for being a bit considerate of the rest of the general population.

As that famous saying from Queens goes… “with great power comes great responsibility.”

The #1 problem that fellow Americans have with our very small percentage who make up US riders is Loud Pipes.

Recently our friend Steve Lita, from American Iron, penned a great piece on this very subject. The difference between Steve and me is that, for the most part, I am preaching to the converted – we think most Backroads’ readers tend to be serious, professional thinking motorcyclists and that being the case have reasonably toned machines.

Lita writes for one of the largest American V-Twin magazines in the nation.

He was not, by any stretch of the imagination, preaching to the choir. To the contrary he was being brutally honest and telling it like it is to an audience that is a major part of the issue at hand.

Good for Steve. (Can’t wait to see the hate mail – more fun when it is not addressed to you!)

Loud Pipes do not save lives – they just piss people off. And, that is basically what the cop told us four decades back.

I hope, wherever he is, he is still riding…maybe he just rode past our office. I am pretty sure I would not have heard him.

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

Road Food One of the things that I look forward to when traveling is getting a taste of the local cuisines. We all have our ‘go-to’ food groups that we like to compare to our at-home favorites when on the road. Hot dogs will always be near the top of the list, as will burgers, fried chicken and, of course, ice cream.

Another source of gastronomical gorging are the many fairs and festivals that take place during the summer and fall months. Since we’ve lived in Sussex County, NJ, I have always enjoyed heading to the New Jersey State Fair/Sussex County Farm & Horse Show the first week of August and wander the food vendor row. In addition to the standard sausage and peppers, gyros and chicken in various forms, I have sampled fried Oreos, fried pickles, fried ice cream and pretty much any other form of batter-coated edible item dunked in hot oil. Not only is this Fair enjoyable for its food, the local crafts are worth a look, the 4-H clubs that exhibit their various farm animals (sheep, cow, pig, rabbit, duck, chicken, etc.) take great pride and the evening activities, especially the Demolition Derby, are more than entertaining.

Recently we received a review book – Fair Foods-the Most Popular and Offbeat Recipes from America’s State & County Fairs. It brought to the forefront the mostly useless calories that these foods take up, but just how utterly decadent and delicious they are. I’ll pick out the highlights of each chapter and you can decide if these would make your outdoor barbeque menu: Sweet & Savory Snacks: Bacon-wrapped Tater Tots with Buttermilk Dill Sauce • Two breakfast foods in one, and one is bacon; what could be better.

Maple and Bacon Doughnuts • see previous comment. Grilled Corn on the Cob • vegetable to balance out the bacon.

The Main Event: Triple Cheeseburger Doughnuts • Sandwiching a triple cheeseburger between a glazed doughnut is just a heart attack waiting to happen – first served at the Iowa State Fair. Spicy Peanut Butter and Jelly Cheeseburgers • One of the most unusual combinations to emerge from county fairs, now a staple at some Midwestern burger joints. Corn Dogs •

You can’t go to a Fair and NOT eat a Corn Dog – that’s just un-American.

Desserts & Treats: Churro Bites • Every culture has a version of fried dough; this one’s from Mexico. Funnel Cake with Berries • See, I told you so. Chocolate-Encased Bacon • Again, bacon + chocolate = HAPPY. The last chapter epitomizes every fair food and is my personal favorite Fried Everything - I’ve already mentioned some so here are other concoctions: Deep-Fried Butter • All I can say is Why? Fried Coca-Cola • All I can say is How? Fried Avocado Slices with Creamy Ranch Sauce • A crunchy coating encases these creamy avocado slices; I happen to eat an avocado a day, so this surely intrigued me. Lastly – Deep-Fried Bacon • Um, isn’t that just bacon?

Should you feel the need to make any or all of these, you can find it on Amazon.com for $24.95. Get out the defibrillator and have a ball.

Has this listing piqued your interest and implanted the idea of a Fair Road Trip? If so, here is a listing of some local happenings – just connect the dots, pack the Little Purple Pill and enjoy. Remember to eat after you take a seat on any of the rides.

Connecticut Woodstock Fair • Sept. 1-4 • www.woodstockfair.com • 281 Rte. 169, Woodstock, CT. Haddam Neck Fair • Sept. 1-4 • www.haddamneckfair.com • 26 Quarry Hill Rd, Haddam, CT (41º 30 44.75 N and 72º 30 56.21 W) 10th Annual Garlic Festival • Sept. 16-17 • oldemistickvillage.com • Olde Mistick Village, Mystic, CT Delaware : 25th Apple Scrapple Festival • Oct. 13-14 • applescrapple.com • Bridgeville, DE Massachusetts The Big E • Sept. 15-Oct. 1 • www.thebigE.com • 875 Memorial Ave, Springfield, MA • Fairgoers Favorite Food: Fried Butter Balls.

Topsfield Fair • Sept 29-Oct. 9 • topsfieldfair.org • 207 Boston St, Topsfield, MA Fluff Festival • Sept. 23 • fluffestival.com • Union Square, Somerville, MA • Celebrating the 100th Anniversary of Fluff (Continued on Page 14)

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

BusTin’ YouR BesT Move Even the most docile among us have (whether they wanted to or not) had to spend time on the dance floor. It is inevitable; regardless of whether you enjoy a good scoot to the tunage or not, you eventually will find yourself in the circumstance where you have to get out there and move around to the music. Because of this, I believe pretty much everybody has a go-to move to at least give the impression you possess some type of rhythm in their soul. While some have an endless supply, we all have at least one move we can bust when the need arises.

It’s a vital tool to have, for needs must when the Devil drives and it’s always good to have that move in you quiver to save your bacon.

Given this, what of riding? Do you have a go-to move when one of those horrifically piloted four (or more) wheelers pulls out in front of you to ruin your day, or worse? I certainly do, and danged if it didn’t get tested nearly to destruction a few weeks ago. The situation was as follows: I was on a country road, meaning it was a two-laner hybrid of a highway and street thoroughfare, with mostly farms on both sides of the road and the odd house as well. It’s a fairly narrow strip, with no real shoulders to speak of (either vertical hills or ditches). Ahead to my right we have a side road with a stop sign, and it is a hill that comes out of the weeds, from my perspective, and the traffic can enter my road and either go right or left towards me. OK, they could go straight, but they would auger in to a wall of dirt and grass that would stop their journey and do considerable damage to the machinery. Anyway, I was motoring along at a reasonably good clip when a GM HD pickup appeared on this side road, and it was a genuine beast of a vehicle with an extended cab and 8-foot bed. The captain of this vessel (roughly 30 years old, baseball cap, t-shirt and I assume in possession of a driver’s license) rolled through the stop sign, looked to his right down the road, and then proceeded to turn left without ever looking to his left, where, amazingly enough, a motorcycle was coming along at a pretty good clip. Due to the narrow nature of the road, plus the length of the vehicle, this dweeb was managing to completely block

off any typical escape routes; thus I had a dilemma on my hands. As in so many situations like this, the driver finally looked my way and stopped, assuring there was nothing he could do to get out of the way. This is all happening in the span of a few seconds of course, which makes it a situation where it’s all up to your instincts as there’s no time to reason.

It was time to bust my move. I have been riding for many a year, and my go-to accident avoidance move is (rather than just brake and hope you stop in time) to steer for something that won’t hurt you, and/or find the place to put the bike where the offending vehicle can’t get you (or at least the least likely place the vehicle is likely to go). I braked hard, locking the rear in the process and continued to advance towards the driver’s door of the truck before turning hard right to the rear of the vehicle, and just managed to miss and then get behind this loathsome hazard where there was space for the bike.

The source of my pain then continued his unsignaled left turn and zoomed away, and I sat there thanking the universe that I had not become a statistic.

The move worked, as it always has in the past.

The move itself is something that I’m thankful has worked into my unconscious mind to the point that I don’t have to think about it, probably because it’s ludicrously simple: always have a path away from trouble. This means that (even though I have tried to portray it as a spontaneous thing) the move is always being warmed up and ready to launch every time I’m on the motorcycle. It’s all about situational (and geographical) awareness, and you can also think of your mind as a computer that is constantly updating itself so it works at peak efficiency when the need arises. As Alec Baldwin (as Blake) said in Glengarry Glen Ross, “Always be Looking.” No wait, he said closing, didn’t he? Damn. And here I used to be good at remembering dialogue. OK, then I will state now, “Always Be Looking.” I have to have a destination available when I bust my move, i.e. a place to bust my move to. Unlike dance floor antics, this requires a bit of advanced planning (by seeing all possible places to go) to pull the move off. And if you are successful with your twowheeled dance partner, and together manage to do some serious busting, then you win. You have conquered the peril in a roadway Dance-Off, bro! Imagine if you are a true Gene Kelly, and have an assortment of moves you can call on when you need them, all with the kind of spontaneity that can save your life. Then I will call you an excellent rider, and true roads-scholar. And, I’ll bet you aren’t half bad under the glitter ball, either.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

ON THE MARK MARK ByERS

hello?

I was sitting in the dining room of the Gray Ghost at the Summer Squeeze. I was looking around at the assembled masses at dinner because, as the great Yogi said, “You can observe a lot just by watching.”

It’s kind of creepy, but as a writer I have to be an observer. And, as so often happens with writers, alcohol was involved. Anyway, as I sat there and looked over each and every one of my fellow attendees – their faces, their hair, their demeanor, and their attire – the realization hit me: we’re old.

We are – we’re old. If anyone can think of someone at the rally under forty, hell, under FIFTY, then let me know. Oh, sure, we can still leave the garbage cans full of wine and beer bottles, but we’re not that far from leaving them full of Ensure and Aleve empties! In my mind, I can hear Brian and I having the following conversation on the porch: Brian – “Mawk, do you remember that time I almost submerged the Africa Twin in the mud puddle?”

Me – “No. Who the hell ARE you?”

OK, so maybe that’s a lot farther off. I sure hope it is, but the fact remains that there’s a glaring omission from our rally ranks that I don’t completely understand: we don’t have any young people. We’re all a bunch of quattroto-octogenarians (one guy tipped the scales at 81, bless his heart). I think Moto Vermont dual-sport guy Eric Milano gets the prize for youngest rider, and he was an invited guest.

Byrd and I started this conversation at Spring Break in West Virginia. I don’t know why, but young people don’t seem to be flocking to motorcycling and those who are don’t seem to relish traveling to the kind of group gatherings for which Backroads is legendary. If you believe some of the ads and mags I’ve seen, they’re putting on their skinny jeans and riding café’d bikes down the block for a half-caff soy milk latte. Or they’re scootering crosstown to the co-op for some organic arugula.

I’m surprised I even know what arugula IS.

Page 9 The other youthful motorcycling demographic I see, regrettably, is scantily-clad sportbike aficionados, almost exclusively young men, jetting by on one wheel as I go up Indian Head Highway toward DC. These are also the ones I frequently read about in the paper as requiring helicopter rides to various trauma centers. The articles invariably say, “Speed was a factor.”

What I’m NOT seeing is a group of young people loading up their ADV bikes for a camping weekend to ride the twisties in West Virginia. I don’t see many riding to work, other than a few enlisted sailors who seem to have caught the moto bug from being stationed overseas. When I see a local guy on a cruiser, he’s undoubtedly in the vicinity of my vintage.

I just don’t get it.

I think young people still like travel: most of my young employees do.

They climb rocks and do Spartan races, play adult kickball and do “Tough Mudders” and all kinds of other cool stuff. I guess those events don’t lend themselves to traveling by motorcycle, however. Perhaps merely riding several hundred miles to hang out with your buddies is not “extreme” enough.

Maybe if they had to do it on a hardtail shovelhead with a raked-out front end they might find it “extreme.” I just don’t know.

There seems to be a lot of redeeming qualities about motorcycle travel that might appeal to the younger generation: you’re closer to nature, you’re burning less fossil fuel, you’re taking up much less valuable space on the roads and in parking lots. It leads me to wonder…is it ME? Do I snore too loudly at The Ghost? Does my breaking of wind after eating chili at the Four Aces Diner leave them gasping for air? Or do my stories of worldly riding escapades leave them bored? Do I sound like a Rudyard Kipling wannabee spinning tales in an affected, faux English accent: “There I was, you know, deep in the Hindu Kush, back when you could still ride there, you know, before the bandits and all that rot, what?!”

I sure wish some younger folks would join us to restore my faith that we’re passing the motorcycling legacy along to the next generation. If you talk nice to me, I’ll buy the good wine and bourbon. I’ll listen to how you did at the Spartan Race and cheer on your pickup kickball game in the parking lot. I might even play. I hope I get to do that before I’m chasing a thousand milligrams of Ibuprofen down with a liter of an Ensure and Metamucil cocktail.

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Page 10

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH Hi Brian, I couldn’t help but notice the Freedom Bike Rental Ad on page 23 (August 2017) as we are riding Ecuador this March.

It is a great ad but just a small suggestion. I think that maybe the rider could be replaced with somebody with more charisma. I think the ad would be more effective if you had a photo of one man emerging from the ashes of a post-apocalyptic world, one man destined to save civilization, a man rising like a phoenix from the rubble to spread hope and to quell the despair of the masses. A man who is larger than life. I am talking about… THE MOST INTERESTING RIDER IN THE WORLD. It is clear that you need the rider from the MotoCaribe ad.

If only we could locate him instead of using this hack.

Love – G

Letters to the Editor Back in the Fold

Backroads, Looking forward to getting back on the road again after a five-year hiatus.

Sandy and I totaled our ’04 Vulcan 900 and walked away, largely in part to our gear.

Full leathers, full-face helmet for me and ½ helmet for Sandy, gloves boots, etc… Sandy received the most injury.

Dear Editor Chipped front tooth, lacerated spleen and 11 stiches on the ankle. (Landed I read with great interest your article about how bad things happen late in on discarded Snapple bottle) - just a twisted knee and sprained wrist for me. the game. Of particular concern is the statistic you cited wherein it is noted Other drivers aren’t going to watch for you if they are distracted! that three out of ten accidents happen a mile from home.

Please keep touting the need for proper gear in Backroads, as we are a tesI have decided to take immediate and decisive action. tament to that!

We never had the privilege of riding with the Backroads I’m moving. group, but hope to change that with getting another motorcycle – used this Signed time. ’06 Suzuki C50T and new safety gear all around.

S.M. Art Asz I am also renewing our Backroads subscription and getting exciting to be receiving it in the mail once more.

1269 DOLSONTOWN RD Sitting on the porch at breakfast with a new Backroads magazine is one of my simple enjoyments.

MIDDLETOWN NY 10940 Thank you again for everything you do for the motorcycle community.

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For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it in the dirt, carving the twisties, or cruising the backroads, we have their weapon of choice.

Hello Brian.

I used to ride with you and Shira in the ‘90s. Getting back on the bike after 10 years and going to the New Jersey Motorsports Park tomorrow for the first time in 12 years. After a brief hiatus glad to get back to it and looking through my old stuff found this crumpled up page.

Know I have more complete editions buried somewhere.

Great to see that Backroads, you and Shira are still keeping on.

Robert W. Johnsen Wow... we are glad you’re back! Motorcycles keep us young! Thanks for sharing the memory!

Backroads, Thanks again for a nice da (Shira’s Mystery Ice Cream Ride), and for getting me out of the Connecticutt “woods.” A drowning rain held off until 2 miles from home, I’ll consider it the Backroads Baptism.

Thanks again, dwight Williams Dwight, we got around them and then it rained after we got in the barn.

Glad you came - it was a mensa mensa day - very hot and a bit more congested than we normally prefer. We will make it up next one out.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 11 What a great way to start the day. Moroccan breakfast and to cap it off Backroads magazine that just arrived in the mail! vaz Rallis los angeles, Ca Hi, We are going to Elks State forest and my husband remembers reading of a hotel you two stayed at IN the state park...could you please give me the name as we can not find the issue.

Kathy Wescott Burke

Kathy, We stayed at the Homestead right on the Elk SP property: www.experienceelkcountry.com/visit I’m sure there are a few other choices if that is booked - check here: www.visitpago.com/counties/elk/lodging/ Have a great time Hi Brian & Shira We enjoyed the “Squeeze” in Vermont last week. I’m now reading the dual sport book from Whitehorse Gear, thank you for making it available. I also appreciate you taking the time to have a tire plugging demonstration, good information for anyone who rides. Thank you for all that you do and we are proudly sporting a Backroads blue Hedz wrap which is definitely on our color palette.

Tom & Kathy Hey Brian, Thank you for the very nice review of our X-lite 1004! Love your magazine and really happy to be included in it.

My X-Lite 1004 has been touring the country as a sample, but I think I will “borrow” it for the weekend to try it out. Don’t tell Harry.

Cheers! suzanne Knaff • Cima international

New Sweden 450 Dear Shira and Brian, A big Thank You for printing the article about our club’s 2017 New Sweden 450 ride, as well as always supporting our club with your magazine subscription gift donations.

Promoting our club event has been a BIG HELP attendance wise, and I know you promote our event even when it almost always conflicts with the exact same dates as your own Spring “Rally”. That’s a real sign of selflessness, not something we see enough of these days.

We really think the idea of a weekend of riding on great “Backroads” is something that more clubs should do, it’s a no-brainer for riders…it’s a lot of work for our club and we do it cause we want too. Not because it’s such a windfall for our club, not by any stretch!

Again, THANKS! Phil levin, Pres. nsBMWR Well Hot Damn! I was tickled pink to read the article

by Jimmy. He started school with me in the fall of ‘63 and we graduated together in ‘76. Jimmy was one of the smartest kids to walk in the door of DCS, a genuine brainiac. I’m glad he’s riding a Triumph, it would suit him well. He always stood out in a crowd and I’m sure

he still does. I hope he submits more articles, he was a good kid and I’m thinking he still is a good kid, just a tad older like the rest of us. Reading that article made my day and I can’t wait to tell some of our friends/76ers about it. Jolly Freaking Good!

As Ever, sindee lou

Got something to say?

We’d love to hear it.

Letters may be edited, never censored, to fit.

Mail: BACKROADS • PO Box 620, Augusta, NJ 07822 Fax: (973) 948-0823 • Email: editor@backroadsusa.com

Page 12

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

IN DU STRY INFOBITES ZERO MOTORCYCLES ADDS 100TH NORTH AMERICAN POLICE AGENCY Zero Motorcycles, the global leader in the electric motorcycle industry, announced that the Vancouver Police Department in British Columbia, Canada, became the 100th fleet in North America to leverage Zero’s stealthy electric motorcycle line by purchasing two bikes from Daytona Motor Sports.

Electric motorcycles are uniquely suited to the needs of law enforcement and security agencies, and Zero developed several models specifically for this highly specialized and exacting market.

News from the Inside “The Vancouver Police Department selected the Zero DSRP motorcycle for its stealth, low cost of operation, hassle-free maintenance, and minimal environmental impact,” said Inspector Loris Zuccato, Officer in charge of the Vancouver Police Department Traffic Section. “The motorcycles will be used on a daily basis on Vancouver city streets and off-road areas. The lownoise and zero-emissions production of the Zero DSRP makes it particularly valuable in patrolling areas such as public parks, trails, and for use during community events.”

Zero developed the Zero DSP, Zero DSRP and Zero FXP models to meet the specific requirements of law enforcement and security agencies. Powered by the 100% electric Z-Force® powertrain, Zero’s police motorcycles are a cost effective means to patrol a wide variety of terrain. In addition, they excel in areas where noise and exhaust are particularly noticeable, especially indoors. Patrol models are fully equipped with pursuit emergency lighting and sirens, safety components, and functional storage options for patrol items and emergency medical equipment.

In addition to the Vancouver Police Department, Zero Motorcycles can be found in police and government fleets in 24 different states and 2 Canadian provinces. In North America, 15 university and college police departments have also chosen Zero as their vehicle of choice, and 12 departments have gone onto purchase additional motorcycles after their positive experiences with their initial purchase.

For detailed information regarding Zero’s Police lineup, including video testimonial, please visit www.zeromotorcycles.com/fleet.

NEW JERSEY RECOGNIZES VETERAN RIDERS The New Jersey Senate and the Assembly voted unanimously to pass Senate Bill No. 1750, and Assembly Bill No. 2729, to create a Veteran license plate for motorcycles.

This establishes “U.S. VET” plates for any honorably discharged Veteran. There will be an annual $10 charge for these plates and all monies collected will be deposited in a fund to be used by the Department of Military and Veterans’ Affairs for the support of programs benefiting New Jersey military veterans.

“When the Governor signs this legislation, it will end an over eight year campaign by ABATE for these plates,” announced Frank C. Maimone of ABATE of the Garden State.

LARZ ANDERSON CLASSIC SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2017 The motorcycle has been part of gear-head culture for over a century, and for many nothing beats the feeling of freedom that only a bike can provide. One of the Museum’s most popular shows, European Motorcycle Day,

showcases the best on two wheels from the Old World.

Join them as hundreds of classic superbikes, choppers, racers and cruisers are on display on the Great Lawn.

The Larz Anderson Classic Eurpean Motorcycle Show will be held Sunday, September 10, 2017 from 9am-2pm Motorcycle registration is $10 per bike. For more in-

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017 formation about being a vendor or sponsor of the show, email emd@larzanderson.org.

This show is not to be missed!

JOSH CELLARS GOES HOG WILD AT STURGIS MOTORCYCLE RALLY Rewrites the Wine Roadmap on Historic Journey through South Dakota 77 years of history was left in the dust as Josh Cellars becomes the first wine brand to ever sponsor the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. The brand took its new rosé on the road, defying stereotypes about wine at every stop along the way.

Josh documented its adventure with ongoing video updates.

The brand hosted 10 separate wine tasting events at Sturgis, including the city’s opening ceremony, the 15th Annual Mayor’s Ride and Military Appreciation Day festivities. For the adventurous, a tattoo artist was commissioned to design commemorative ink in recognition of Josh’s first trip to the legendary motorcycle rally. The Sturgis initiative is another spoke in the Josh mission to bring premium wine to every table and occasion in America where wine is appropriate.

“Why wouldn’t we want to be the first wine brand to participate in Sturgis?” asked Renato Reyes, Chief Marketing Officer for Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. “The average motorcycle owner at Sturgis is affluent, educated and we know they love great wine.

We respect that they have a choice about which wines they drink and we want Josh to be the brand they reach for.”

Josh has reason to be confident. All seven Josh core varietals rank in the top three nationally for both total sales and sales growth in the $10-$15 segment. Josh rosé, launched this year, has added more sales to retailers over the last 13 weeks than any other new rosé over $10.

“It is about time a wine brand recognized what a great opportunity it is to get in front of more than half a million bikers,” said Jerry Cole, director of Sturgis Rally & Events for the city. “People think we’re all tattoos and leather, but there is a lot more to us than

Page 13 that. We appreciate great wine just like everyone else.”

“Josh is the perfect brand to take this first ride with us,” Cole continued.

“I love the brand’s roots, values and all-American success story.”

MORTON’S BMW OFF-ROAD TRAINING SEPTEMBER 16 For the seventh year in a row, Morton’s BMW, of Fredericksburg, VA is happy to offer their Morton’s BMW Off-Road Training Day. On Saturday, September 16, they’ll head out to get some off-road training under your belts — and some dirt under your fenders!

For years, Morton’s BMW has been your mid-Atlantic GS store, offering motorcycles, products, and events to foster your enthusiasm for BMW’s most popular series of bikes. That work has included hosting a day of off-road training for GS (and other dual-sport) riders at the Massey family farm in Spotsylvania. About 50 eager riders join each time and we’re ready to go again.

They’ll meet at Morton’s BMW at 8:30 am, hold a brief riders’ meeting, complete the ritual signing of waiver forms, and then head for the farm. You will have a couple hours of training in the morning, take a break for lunch — included in your registration fee — and continue training in the afternoon. In the past, this has meant a variety of exercises in the morning session — e.g., maneuvering on grass and dirt, riding over obstacles, etc. — and then riding the trails through the woods in the afternoon.

Morton’s will divide the participants into groups based on experience and skill, and tailor the training content to each level of expertise. The goal is to improve the skills you already have and make off-pavement riding more fun and less intimidating.

Morton’s provides the location, the instructors, the box lunch, snacks, and all the water and fluids you’ll need. You provide your GS-style bike (other brands are acceptable, too, but they need to be street-legal dual sports), full riding gear (helmet, jacket, pants, boots, and gloves), and a good attitude. Chances are you’ll get dirty, you may get wet (this is a rain or shine event), and we can’t promise you won’t fall down.

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

KURYAKYN’S GRAND PET PALACE Do you bring your furry friend along for the ride?

An updated version of Kuryakyn’s popular pet carrier, the new Grand Pet Palace, lets riders take four-legged friends along for the ride. This homeaway-from-home for pets features updated styling with 40 percent more ventilation and 20 percent more internal space. A new integrated sissy bar strap coupled with additional mounting straps and integrated D-Rings on the carrier provide several secure mounting options. An internal frame with rigid structural support provides the ultimate in protection and shape retention capabilities. Creature comforts include an internal adjustable leash, two dishes, a stash pouch for food or treats, and a new, easy-clean removable foam cushion. Human comfort updates include an improved bottle pocket, side-mounted handles and detachable carrying strap for easy portability off the bike.

The Palace measure 18.5 inches x 13 inches x 14 inches (Cubic Inches: 2,700) and has four mesh windows for viewing and optimum ventilation.

It utilizes a removable stash pouch for food or accessory storage and includes removable carrying strap for convenience off the bike. Recommended weight capacity is 20 pounds, so your Mastiff is not coming.

Kuryakyn’s Grand Pet Palace sells for $229.99 and you can see a video at this site: https://youtu.be/Zjp0gPQCYd0 To view Kuryakyn’s complete range of luggage offerings, visit www.kuryakyn.com/c/luggage.

WhaTChaThinKin’

(Continued from Page 6)

New Hampshire: Hopkinton State Fair • Sept. 1-4 • www.hsfair.org • 392 Kearsarge Ave, Contoocook, NH • Fairgoers Favorite: Apple Crisp with Ice Cream New York: Long Island Garlic Festival • Sept. 16-17 • gardenofevefarm.com/garlicfestival.htm • 4558 Sound Ave, Riverhead, Ny Ohio: PawPaw Festival • Sept. 15-17 • ohiopawpawfest.com • 5900 US 50 West, Albany, OH Pennsylvania Sullivan County Fair • Aug. 30-Sept. 4 • sullivancountyfair.com • 4430 Route 154, Forksville, PA. McClure Bean Soup Festival and Fair • Sept. 10-16 • mcclurebeansoupfair.com • Ohio St, McClure, PA. Bloomsburg Fair • Sept. 22-30 • www.bloomsburgfair.com • 620 W 3rd St, Bloomsburg, PA 32nd Annual Mushroom Festival • Sept. 9-10 • mushroomfestival.org • 101 Sout Union St, Kennet Square, PA Virginia: Taste of Brunswick Festival • Oct. 14 • tasteofbrunswickfestival.com • 1548 Meeting Rd, Alberta, VA Vermont 146th Tunbridge World’s Fair • Sept. 14-17 • www.tunbridgeworldsfair.com • 1 Fairgrounds Lane, Tunbridge, VT Brattleboro BaconFest – Sept. 9 @ 11am • 163 Fairground Rd, Guilford, VT West Virginia: 76th Annual Preston Cty Buckweat Festival • Sept.

28-Oct. 1 • Kingswood, WV Do your own search – there are plenty of specialty food fairs and festivals that take place during the fall, the best riding time of the year. Take some pictures and send them to shira@backroadsusa.com - I’ll keep a listing and put them on the calendar for next year.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A don’T Go TheRe! A Two PArT MysTerious AMericA where The us GovernMenT does noT wAnT you GoinG! Mount Weather high Point special Facility • Bluemont, virginia The snow was heavy and visibility almost non-existent on December 1, 1974 along the mid-Atlantic. Amongst the 85 passengers aboard TWA Flight 514 from Indianapolis to Washington D.C. were U.S. Army Brigadier General Roscoe C. Cartwright, 55, who was one of the first blacks to attain the rank of general in the Army, who had retired in September of 1974 after a 33-year military career.

Traveling with him was his wife, Gloria. Also aboard was James Applewhite, a legislative assistant to Representative Andrew Young of Georgia, and Applewhite’s wife and their 3-year-old son.

When the Dulles tower lost radar contact with the plane about 11:10 am local authorities were notified to begin a search. Two state troopers found the wreckage almost immediately, hampered by driving rain, fog and winds gusting up to 40-50 miles an hour.

Rescue workers found the woods littered with broken bodies, blazing debris and splintered timber. The only identifiable parts of the shattered silver jet were part of its tail, emblazoned in red with the letters “TWA” and one section of the fuselage with four window frames intact. This was one of two jet crashes that this monster storm would cause this day, the other being

Northwest Orient Airlines Flight 6231 that crashed in Harriman State Park – it was part of Mysterious America last May written by my protégé Tony Lisanti.

When reports began to show so did someone else and that is when the mystery blooms and secrets are unhidden.

The U.S. Army showed up and started turning away the media and gathering locals – even the State Police ran into a green wall.

Something other than just the jet crash and the loss of 93 souls was happening, but nobody knew what it was.

What the crash had unwittingly uncovered was the “High Point Special Facility” atop Mount Weather, outside of Bluemont, Virginia.

It is now just called SF. Today the site, easily found on State Route 601 – Blue Ridge Mountain Road -calls itself the FEMA Mount Weather Emergency Operations Center.

Right. Does FEMA, the Federal Emergency Management Agency (now part of Homeland Security) - the same folks who came rushing into New Orleans after Katrina with trailers and assistance - really need trucksized metal detectors at the gates, warning signs, 10 foot-high chain link fences, razor wire, umpteen cameras security and a small army protecting it?

Page 16

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

We don’t think so and we think the facility that you see is the tip of a well-disguised truth that exists far below what the eyes can see.

Why are curious motorists and hikers on the Appalachian Trail relieved of their sketching pads and cameras and sent on their way. Security is tight. The government has owned the site since 1903; it has seen service as an artillery range, a hobo farm during the Depression, and a National Weather Bureau Facility. In 1936, the U.S. Bureau of Mines took control and started digging.

Mount Weather is virtually an underground city.

And it is a secret that everyone knows but few are talking about. Heck, even the Russians tried to buy the property next door to it for a “Country Estate” for their ambassador. The Feds squashed that thought right away.

The facility under Mount Weather is a seat of government waiting to be and is a major relocation site for the highest level of civilian and military officials in case of national disaster, playing a major role in U.S. continuity of government (per the Continuity of Operations Plan). According to our sources no less than nine Federal departments are replicated within Mount Weather (Agriculture; Commerce; Health, Education & Welfare; Housing & Urban Development; Interior; Labor; State; Transportation; and Treasury) as well as at least five Federal agencies (Federal Communications Commission, Selective Service, Federal Power Commission, Civil Service Commission, and the Veterans Administration). The Federal Reserve and the U.S. Post Office, both private corporations, also have offices in Mount Weather.

When we passed by in mid-may the first thing that struck us about Blue Ridge Mountain Road was that there were some beautiful homes and property along this road; maybe a tad over my pay grade.

Then we passed into the SF zone – you can’t miss it and they will not miss you.

Because it is my job, I risked capture and interrogation by stopping for a split second to snap off a hastily framed image (They surely took notice and I am sure they had my plate and ID before I got back into first gear) and then kept on going, at a slow pace taking in the cameras, the giant metal detectors and ultra-high security that envelopes the place.

Spook city, I tell ya.

I stopped for lunch at a local café called Tammy’s Diner. Playing dumb I asked what that crazy barbed wire FEMA thing was all about down the road a bit.

The place got kinda quiet and the waitress took a quick look around the café and then leaned in tight.

She told me in a light whisper that nobody really knows for sure, but there is always talk of an underground base – like a James Bond movie. She added that the old timers that were hired to work there back in the day have steadfastly refused to talk even a little bit about what they saw, knew or observed.

So, there you have it from the locals – and they should know.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 17

Hanover Powersports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY PennsYlvania’s WalKinG PuRChase how An infAMous deAl chAnGed The fuTure of A nATion…

Along the backroads and bi-ways of Pennsylvania you will pass historic and stone markers that, if you take the time to examine, will unlock a great deal of local history, flavor and flair for what made up the region through which you are riding.

Along Route 611, in Ottsville, there stand two markers – one a more modern metal historical plaque and one far older, made of stone.

These signs begin the tale of an infamous land deal in Pennsylvania and how it led to a war, began the career of an American legend and, in part, helped create our nation.

Let us start at the beginning.

Although most have heard of William Penn, not many know the backstory on how this young man came to be in charge of Philadelphia and the surrounding region.

It all began with a debt.

Back in 1681 King Charles of England had run up a debt with William Penn’s father to the tune of £16,000 and to repay his debt, King Charles II granted the young Penn 45,000 square miles of land to establish a colony in “regard to the memory and merits of his late father” on March 4, 1681.

With the King making good with the monies he owed his passed father William Penn, 37 years old, found himself with a good size chunk of land in the New World, north of the mouth of the Delaware River.

Penn created a town to promote commerce and government; he named the town Philadelphia, which was Greek for “city of brotherly love.” To ensure his colony would remain peaceful, Penn purchased the land from the local Native Americans before settlement took place.

He was known for his fair dealings with both white men and natives.

But, after his death, things would begin to change.

Thomas Penn had inherited his father’s position as governor and, with the arrival of more Europeans and the need for more land, once settled on boundaries came into dispute. Along with his agent, James Logan, the Delaware Indians (Lenape) were led into believing that another survey was needed, and eventually both parties decided on a unique, if odd, solution.

It was agreed between the two parties that this new land grant would contain a tract of land beginning at Wrightstown and extending northward as far as a man could walk in one and one-half days. Three men were chosen as walkers: James Yeates, Solomon Jennings and Edward Marshall. Each man was paid five pounds and

Maybe you should too, or perhaps – like Ted Gup who spilled the beans on the Greenbrier Hotel Bunker in the 1992 Washington Post Magazine article - I’ll have to lay low for a bit.

Or – next month I can tell you of another place that you can ride to – but where the Feds do not appreciate you dropping by for a visit – and, unlike Bluemont, this secret facility is in the shadow of one of the most famous and visited sites in the entire United States.

Stay tuned – O’Life out!

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

Page 18

was given 500 acres of land for his participation in the walk.

At 6am on September 19, 1737 the three men started off from the Wrightstown Meeting House.

From the very beginning the Delaware Indians were not happy and began to realize that this might not have been the best deal they could have made.

The natives assumed that the white “walkers” would follow the native customs of walking along a path and taking breaks to hunt and to smoke.

That was not going to happen as Yeats, Jennings and Marshall’s pace was brisk, almost to a run.

The natives were getting more and more angry.

After just 10 miles Jennings and two of the natives quit with exhaustion.

By evening, when the group had arrived near Bethlehem and forded the Lehigh River, which was unusually low, only Yeates, Marshall, and one

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Delaware remained The men continued in a northwest direction until stopping at 6 pm at the Hockendauqua Creek, in the present-day town of Northampton; the men had walked more than a whopping 44 miles in one day.

This was not going well for the Lenape.

Dawn found the “walkers’ on the move again, making their way as far north as present day Jim Thorpe.

As noon approached, Marshall threw himself on the ground and reached out to grab a small sapling. This was the official end of the walk. Today’s town of Marshall’s Creek, Pennsylvania is named in his honor.

With “The Walk” completed there was just one more thing for the settlers to do to rub salt into the wound. Instead of drawing the boundary line in a straight easterly direction to the Delaware River, following the demarcation of the earlier 1682 agreement which made the line run from the sapling (in Jim Thorpe) in a northeasterly direction, on the new map, the northern boundary of Pennsylvania began in present-day Jim Thorpe and extended northeasterly to the mouth of the Lackawaxen River in present-day Pike County.

Think just north of Barryville, on the river, along Route 97 on the New York side.

In this way, through the “Walking Purchase of 1737,” the Pennsylvania government secured nearly 1,200 square miles of land.

Next Page

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 19

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

TaveRn 1757 318 RoosevelT dRive/RTe. 34, seYMouR, CT 06483 203-516-5461 • TaveRn1757.CoM Along the Housatonic River in southwestern Connecticut, just south of Lake Zoar which winds over the dam and heads into the town of Seymour, across the water you will see a restaurant that looks a bit up scale for what we usually offer – but don’t let the slightly upscale looks of Tavern 1757 fool you.

Tavern 1757 keeps its 260-year old heritage.

Although a modern, open and airy building, they used much of the original wood and beams from the old building in its construction. This great mix of old and new has a really comfortable feel all around. Tavern 1757 offers riders in the area something a bit different when it comes to the region’s eateries and they serve up some seriously great chow as well.

We were turned onto Tavern 1757 by our friend, and Northeast Director of the Concours Owners Group, Steve Smith. Steve’s son-in-law, Je Meagher, took over the Tavern a year or so back and it has quickly become a favorite with locals along the Housatonic.

It had been a while since we have featured a Nutmeg State restaurant in the Great All American Diner Run and when Shira was putting together her “July is National Ice Cream Month” Mystery Ride, she realized that our first stop at the PEZ Factory was just a few minutes ride from the Tavern. Emails were made, phone calls followed up and we

When the Delaware Indians protested the purchase and refused to leave the land, officials of the Pennsylvania government asked the Iroquois Indians to help evict the Delaware tribe. The Iroquois, who had conquered the Delaware tribes, sided with the Pennsylvania government and supported the new treaty stating: “How come you take it upon you to sell lands at all?

We conquered you; we made women of you. For this land you claim you have been furnished with clothes, meat and drink, and now you want it again, like the children that you are. We charge you to remove instantly; we don’t give you liberty to think about it. You are women. Take the advice of a wise man and go at once.”

Okay, that was a bit misogynistic, but that’s what they said.

The Walking Purchase and the subsequent treatment of the Delaware Indians strained the relationship between the European colonists and the native people. Undoubtedly, the treaty was not consistent with the governance of William Penn himself, and it likely “set the stage” for the Delawares’ alliance with the French during the French and Indian War of 1755, which brought a young Virginian named Washington into his first foray in a military uniform. But, that is another story entirely, and one that we have visited scenes of many of Washington’s exploits in previous issues of Backroads, but there is more history to be found if we just slow down to look for it.

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

arranged for about 13 of us to drop in right after they opened on a Wednesday afternoon in July.

The 1757 has a large lot and easily swallowed up our dozen bikes. They had a large and long table all set and ready to go for our group.

Although they do a superb dinner and have a whopping wine cellar as well, we were on bikes and there for lunch, so we’ll stick with that menu.

Of course sandwiches are a big thing and Tavern 1757 offers plenty with burgers, fish tacos and clubs.

The burgers were well liked and the fish tacos off the chart. They also serve

jerk chicken, Rueben and a pesto chicken sandwich. The sausage and spinach was also a big winner this day.

Sides and appys include large and tasty roasted potato wedges, chips and shoestring fries – but the eggplant fries really stole the show. You can also get a garden or Caesar salad as a side.

We heard their meatball Parmesan sandwich is legendary – but like some other legends it was unseen this day (we have to go back for this).

Behind the wide bar, opposite the window that looks out on the tabled deck, there is a large wood-fired pizza oven that was cranking when we ar-

RIDERS WELCOME Breakfast served on weekends sample our home cookin’ at the World Famous Cedar Rapids

The Bar is Open ‘drink responsibly’

Take a ride on one of the Northeast’s Scenic Byways - Route 97 - 20 miles north of Port Jervis. Dine with your fellow riders on the Delaware River

Let us host your group motorcycle event any day

Enjoy our Expanded Canopied Decks Member of

www.cedarrapidsny.com rived. Tavern 1757 does a marvelous job with the Italian classic. Traditional, Margherita, sweet sausage and meat lovers can be found.

Some more interesting pizzas included Steak Sinatra… flank steak, mushroom, onion, red peppers and sweet vermouth demi-glace marinara - Damn!

Mashed potato with cheddar cheese, crispy bacon, pan gravy and frizzled onions. Double Damn!

Tavern 1757 makes pies interesting, but let’s talk one or two more…

The Jack Mac, which is pulled chicken tossed with their Jack Daniels sauce and cheddar mac & chees with apple wood smoked bacon.

Shira ordered the Fig, with prosciutto, caramelized onion and goat cheese with a balsamic reduction drizzle.

I stole half to go with my Caesar and salmon salad.

Another great salad for you carnivores (I know that sounds weird) was the mixed grill salad that our friend Steve ordered - really two meals on one plate. Part Caesar salad, part house ensalade and then topped with an ample supply of grilled shrimp, lobster and steak.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 21

I obviously was too busy talking to really studying the menu as well as I should have, but the beauty is we can go back and we will again and again when in this part of Connecticut.

The restaurant easily handled our large group with smiles and we all had our food within 20 minutes of them taking the order – excellent with a large

ride-in group like ours. In addition, they have a large upstairs room, with outdoor balcony, available for larger groups – think riding club dinners, holiday celebrations and such.

Tavern 1757 is a wonderful place - our new “Go To” and well worth seeking out. GPS download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/u0w5t0

Rip & Ride® • TAVERN 1757 318 ROOSEVELT DRIVE - RTE. 34, SEYMOUR, CT 06483 • 203-516-5461 • TAVERN1757.COM DIRECTION

LEG

Start at Bear Mountain Bridge/US 202 E

TOTAL

DIRECTION

LEG

TOTAL

0 ft

Right onto Titicus Rd/Hwy 116

0 ft

0 ft

Keep Left onto Peach Lake Rd/Hwy 121

5.4 mi

26.8 mi

Right onto US 6 E/US 9 S/US 202 E to Peekskill

4.1 mi

4.1 mi

Right onto Dingle Ridge Rd

1.3 mi

28.1 mi

Left onto Bear Mountain State Pkwy

0.2 mi

4.3 mi

Right onto Finch Rd

0.2 mi

28.3 mi

Left onto Crompond Rd

3.8 mi

8.1 mi

Left onto Ridgebury Rd

2.3 mi

30.6 mi

Left onto Granite Springs Rd

3.8 mi

11.9 mi

Right onto George Washington Hwy

0.7 mi

31.4 mi

Left onto Granite Springs Rd

1.2 mi

13.1 mi

Left onto Backus Ave

1.8 mi

33.2 mi

Left onto Granite Springs Rd

0.8 mi

13.9 mi

Right onto W Wooster St

1.9 mi

35.1 mi

Left onto US 202

1.5 mi

15.5 mi

Right onto Main St

1.1 mi

36.2 mi

Right onto US 202

.04 mi

15.8 mi

Left onto South St

0.4 mi

36.6 mi

Left onto Brick Hill Rd

1.9 mi

17.7 mi

Keep Left onto Triangle St

0.2 mi

36.8 mi

RIght onto US 202

0.5 mi

18.2 mi

Keep Right onto Newtown Rd

1.1 mi

37.8 mi

Left onto US 202

1.4 mi

19.6 mi

Bear Right onto Stony Hill Rd

2.6 mi

40.4 mi

Right onto Somerstown Rd

0.4 mi

20.0 mi

Left onto Mile Hill Rd

5.7 mi

46.1 mi

Right onto Hwy 116

483 ft

20.0 mi

Right onto Hwy 34

1.7 mi

47.8 mi

Left onto Hwy 22

1.3 mi

21.4 mi

Arrive at Tavern 1757 on left

2.0 mi

50.0 mi

Right onto US 202 E

Page 22

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

WE’RE OUTTA HER E

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

salMon RiveR inn 9931 hiGhWaY 7, head oF JeddoRe, nova sCoTia 902-889-2233 • salMonRiveRCounTRYinn.Ca We have always hoped that ‘We’re Outta Here!’ has been about those special little getaways that make you never want to leave or to come back and bring your friend with you.

Many times it is that the inn or bed & breakfast might have a superb location – with great roads, smashing views or interesting history and culture.

Perhaps they serve some “out of this world” meals.

But, every now and again, we find a place that is that magical combination of all these and that is exactly what we have this moth as we ride up into Canada’s phenomenally pretty Nova Scotia’s eastern coast and the Salmon River Inn. So make some time as we have many miles to go and we are really outta here this month!

The Marine Drive of Nova Scotia meanders along the coast and passes through some of the most scenic and photographed vistas in all of Nova Scotia.

Along Trunk Road 7, just north of Halifax, in the hamlet of Head of Jeddore the Salmon River meets the Atlantic Ocean. It is here we will park for the night and, if smart, stay for a few days, at the Salmon River Inn. Here you will also meet Margit – your host.

She, her husband and extended family have been on this shore for a number of years now and have turned the old inn into something very, very special.

Located right off Marine Road and along the river, the Salmon Inn showcases just what a classic Nova Scotian inn should be. The rooms up the narrow stairs (there are seven of them) are clean and relaxing, with comfortable beds and an old-world nautical airiness to them.

This is not the Ritz, but the Ritz was not what we are coming to Nova Scotia for, is it?

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 23 Now here was a meal great enough for a Norseman or woman. Cabbage Leaves stuffed with Barley and Green Frikadellar (Viking Meatballs), Chieftain’s Stew or Marinated Ox Tongue, served with creamed Horseradish, Roasted Root Vegetables and a savory Wheat Porridge.

Lucky for us Margit had some left over and we got to taste it all; as our friend Ed would say….fantastic!

Downstairs on the main floor is the kitchen and dining rooms. It is here where Margit and company really shine.

Their menu, as you would think, features fresh Atlantic seafood. The Fish Chowder is fantastic; a rich concoction of shrimp, haddock and lobster.

We heard this maritime seafood dish changes with each taste, and it is true.

The steamed mussels are local – like from outside local – and equally tasty.

Margit is known for a lot of great creations but their Lobster Roll has gained particular fame. A fresh local lobster combined with a minced garden medley of celery, onions, chives and spices in the Salmon River’s own dill mayonnaise on a freshly toasted roll. Yummy.

Margit originally hailed from Germany, and the rest of her menu reflects this with some superb Bavarian delights. Bratwurst Nürnberger style, sauerkraut and roasted potatoes, Käse-Spätzle, Jägerschnitzel with Spätzle and others.

The fish & chips were perfect as was Shira’s Spätzle.

When we visited we were delayed by a storm on passage to Nova Scotia and were a day late for her annual Viking Passport Dinner.

Page 24

Rip & Ride® • SALMON RIVER INN 9931 HIGHWAY 7, HEAD OF JEDDORE, NOVA SCOTIA 902-889-2233 • SALMONRIVERCOUNTRYINN.CA

GET TO PORTLAND, MAINE TAKE THE CAT FERRY TO YARMOUTH, NS PICK UP ROUTE 7 MARINE DRIVE HEAD NORTH ALONG COAST TRY TO AVOID HALIFAX AND TRAFFIC CONTINUE THROUGH SPECTACULAR COASTLINE AT HEAD OF JEDDORE, CROSS RIVER LEFT INTO PARKING LOT RELAX, ENJOY AND SAY HI TO MARGIT

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS What we did miss was the revelry and costumes that the horde had brought the night before. We saw pictures and it looked to be quite the night. Maybe fate was really on our side with this storm?

The Salmon River Inn also holds Irish and Mongol Passport Dinner. Mongol? I guess we’ll have to make a return trip to see what this is all about for ourselves.

On Friday night there is local shore musicians playing during the evening, so plan accordingly.

Maybe after dinner you can take a seat outside on the dockside table – a perfect place to unwind with an adult beverage or hot cup of freshly brewed coffee (a seeming rarity east of Maine).

With Halifax and its deep nautical history to the south and the winding coastal routes to the north, the Salmon River Inn is the perfect place to overnight while passing through or to set up as a home base for a few days worth of two-wheel exploration through this rich and cultured part of the Canadian Maritimes.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 25

sTeel sTeeds MoToRCYCle CaMPGRound 1095 sTaTe RouTe 405, MilTon, Pa 17847 (570) 524-9433 • WWW.sTeelsTeedsCaMP.CoM When we got word of 2017’s Ramapo 500’s endsite, a good-sized campground along the banks of the picturesque Susquehanna River outside Milton, Pennsylvania, we were all in.

We have an attraction for places that not only welcome riders but encourage them.

Diane and Bob Sykes, who run Steel Steeds Motorcycle Campground, felt the same way and, as avid riders and two-wheeled campers, have brought Steel Steeds into existence.

According to Diane, “We have ridden a lot of miles and camped for years. When we saw this area, we fell in love with the beauty of the river and the region. We have stayed at all types of places from hostels to hotels, and camped in rain and shine. When we landed in central Pennsylvania, we knew we wanted to share this beautiful place with other motorcyclists.”

The Northumberland County part of PA can be very pretty and this part of the river, actually the West Branch of the east coast’s longest river, is just that.

Steel Steeds has plenty of open space for tent camping, offers furnished cabins with real beds, and tent rentals with airbeds. There is a pavilion to handle larger crowds such as the small army the Ramapo 500 brought in.

They also have available a number of trailers and RVs. These can range from small to rather large, from a bit hoarier to almost Rock Star – so choose wisely, Grasshopper.

They also have an adjacent pub, LTs Tavern, right next door and the town of Milton is just a short ride away, with all the necessities most American small towns will offer.

Steel Steeds is very affordable and primitive sites run just $20, with the Rock Star RVs going for $100; much more fun than that boring same old, same old chain hotel off of I-80, that is for sure.

Steel Steeds Motorcycle Campground is open from April 15 - October 31 and reservations are encouraged, but not necessary – bikers riding in are most welcome.

If you are exploring this part of Pennsylvania and want to stay at a place that is a bit different, fun and very riderfriendly then take a spin by Steel Steeds Motorcycle Campground.

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Klein FaRM daiRY and CReaMeRY 410 Klein Road, easTon, Pa 18040 dailY houRs: sToRe 8aM-8PM • iCe CReaM 11aM-8PM (WinTeR ‘Til 7PM) GPs CooRdinaTes: n40° 45.725’ W75° 13.735’ Somewhere, at some time, someone told me that, ‘If I liked this ice cream, you have to go to Klein’s Creamery.’ I filed it away for that someday and, on a beautiful Sunday in July, Our friends Ken, Mike, Brian and I met for a great breakfast at the Elias Cole on Route 23 in Sussex, NJ for a short jaunt for ice cream.

We have been living at the Backroads Central compound for the past 20 years, but we still seem to discover little roads that had previously not been, by us at least. Heading toward the Chatterbox Drive-In in Augusta, we vectored of Route 206 onto some very pretty, empty roads, making our way southwest. After about 60 miles of great riding, we pulled into the gravel parking lot of Klein’s Dairy & Creamery.

The nicely landscaped area, complete with lots of children’s entertainment such as swings, slides and penned animals to pet, also featured a couple of picnic tables and shade trees. I took note of this for after the ice cream was examined and ordered.

A bit of history: Klein Farms has been a dairy farm since Roy Klein moved thre in 1935 with his family from the mid-west. He and his wife, Ruth, raised a family and grew the farm in the simple manner to which they were raised. Their son, Layne, married Beth in 1979 and they eventually took over the operations while raising their own family. One thing led to another and, long story short, the idea of using the cows’ milk for cheese and yogurt was developed. In 2004 the Dairy Store was opened, selling said cheese and yogurt along with beef from their steer, eggs from local farms and honey, maple syrup and soaps from other local artisans.

The family grew, as well as the business, and today many family members are still involved with day-to-day operations. In April, 2016, the new Dairy Store opened, selling all of the above in addition to their own homemade ice cream and that is what brought us there this day.

Daniel Duffin, the creator of Happy Holstein Ice Cream, has done an amazing job of pulling flavor combinations together for some extremely tasty selections. There are currently 34 different flavors, with 20 that were scoopable when we visited. There were also two special flavors, but we’ll get to that in a bit. I am not

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THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

www.chatterboxdrivein.com

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 27

going to give you all 34 descriptions; for that you’ll just have to make a most pleasant ride on your own.

I will give you what I think are the highlights, in the Klein’s own words – Black Cow: chocolate as deep and dark as you’d want it to be, right at the limit – Mint Chocolate Chip: smooth Italian mint base with dark chocolate flakes made green organically – Blueberry Cheesecake: Wild blueberries blended with cream cheese, with natural color and no crust – Caramel Cow: lusty caramel ice cream (not vanilla) with our favorite caramel swirl – Pistachio Pizzazz: full-tilt pistachio flavor with a generous mix of chopped salted pistachios – Red Licorice Chip: crazy flavor of real anise taste with dark chocolate flakes and ‘beet’ red coloring – Butterscotch Blast: base of butterscotch, not vanilla, with a butterscotch swirl for a double hit. The special flavor was RootyToot Beer.

The hardest decision was in front of us, but luckily the young ladies behind the counter were more than happy to hand out tastings of any and all flavors. I limited mine and finally decided on a cup full of RootyToot Beer and Sweet Cream Cheese, Brian went for Peachy Keen and Coconut Cow, Mike for RootyToot and Coconut and Ken, always a most sensible, restrained individual, simply had Blueberry Cheesecake. We sat at one of the inside (air-conditioned) tables and enjoyed our treats and conversations. The RootyToot was simply incredible, with a full, rich flavor and super creamy consistency. The Sweet Cream Cheese was a fine example of a simple flavor, melding well with the Root Beer. I did manage to taste everyone else’s and can say that the Blueberry was probably my favorite. I truly can’t imagine that, with such a great ice cream base, any one of their flavors would be bad.

With the ice cream gone, I headed out to visit the animals. There are a couple of miniature mules named Licorice and Butterscotch, Peanut and Cashew are the sheep, Wilbur the pig and his friend Trixie the goose. There is a pen full of goats who looked to be having the best time climbing their multi-level walkway,

Page 28

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

as well as a number of chickens and roosters, chasing one another, and, of course, lots of cows. It was time to leave this fine respite and get back on the road, as the day was still young and we had many miles to go and much to see.

Here is the route we took to Klein’s, starting from the Chatterbox Drive-

In in Augusta, NJ. It is a short 55 miles, but long on fun and with a great reward of some awesome ice cream at the end. I hope you enjoy it as much as we did. The return 75-mile ride, ending at the Elias Cole on Route 23 in Sussex, NJ, is attached in the GPS only. Have fun and we’ll see you on the road.

GPs download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/4wdzza

Rip & Ride® • KLEIN’S DAIRY FARM AND CREAMERY 410 KLEIN ROAD, EASTON, PA 18040 • GPS COORDINATES: N40° 45.725’ W75° 13.735’ DAILY HOURS: STORE 8AM-8PM • ICE CREAM 11AM-8PM (WINTER ‘TIL 7PM) DIRECTIONS

LEG

TOTAL

CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN, RTES. 15/206, AUGUSTA, NJ • GET ON US 206 S LEFT ONTO DECKER RD 0.4 MI 0.4 MI BEAR RIGHT ONTO SNOVER RD 1.1 MI 1.5 MI 1.1 MI LEFT ONTO HWY 94 2.6 MI RIGHT ONTO WARBASSE JUNCTION RD 0.9 MI 3.4 MI LEFT ONTO PIERCE RD 1.2 MI 4.7 MI 1.2 MI RIGHT ONTO CR 623 5.9 MI RIGHT ONTO US 206 4.4 MI 10.4 MI LEFT ONTO BRIGHTON RD 0.4 MI 10.8 MI RIGHT ONTO PEQUEST RD 1.8 MI 12.6 MI LEFT ONTO KENNEDY RD 3.2 MI 15.7 MI RIGHT ONTO QUAKER RD 0.7 MI 16.4 MI RIGHT ONTO LONG BRIDGE RD 0.8 MI 19.0 MI RIGHT ONTO ALPHANO RD 1.1 MI 20.1 MI RIGHT ONTO US 46 5.3 MI 25.4 MI RIGHT ONTO HOPE RD 0.8 MI 26.3 MI LEFT ONTO DANVILLE MOUNTAIN RD 403 FT 26.3 MI LEFT ONTO FREE UNION RD 2.3 MI 28.6 MI LEFT ONTO US 46 2.9 MI 31.4 MI RIGHT ONTO PEQUEST FURNACE RD 0.5 MI 31. 9 MI

RIGHT ONTO PEQUEST RD LEFT ONTO HWY 31 RIGHT ONTO WASHINGTON AVE BEAR LEFT ONTO BUCKLEY AVE RIGHT ONTO BRASS CASTLE RD RIGHT ONTO HARDWICK ST LEFT ONTO WATER ST CROSS FREE BRIDGE INTO PENNSYLVANIA RIGHT ONTO KAYLOR RD LEFT ONTO N DELAWARE DR RIGHT ONTO LITTLE CREEK RD RIGHT ONTO S DELAWARE DR RIGHT ONTO MAIN ST BEAR LEFT ONTO OLD FRANKLIN HILL RD LEFT ONTO FRANKLIN HILL RD RIGHT ONTO KLAUSE RD LEFT ONTO UPPER MUD RUN RD RIGHT ONTO RICHARD GARR RD LEFT ONTO KLEIN RD ARRIVE AT KLEIN FARM DAIRY & CREAMERY ON LEFT - WATCH GRAVEL PARKING LOT

0.6 MI 1.6 MI 0.5 MI 0.4 MI 1.8 MI 4.0 MI 0.1 MI

32.5 MI 34.1 MI 34.6 MI 35.0 MI 36.8 MI 40.8 MI 40.9 MI

1.7 MI 2.7 MI 0.7 MI 4.0 MI 0.1 MI 0.4 MI 0.8 MI 0.2 MI 0.6 MI 0.4 MI 0.8 MI 0.7 MI

42.6 MI 45.3 MI 46.1 MI 50.2 MI 50.3 MI 50.8 MI 51.6 MI 51.7 MI 52.4 MI 52.8 MI 53.6 MI 54.4 MI

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 29

L

ake George was a quick morning’s ride north and, after attending the last 27, we were pretty good at hitting the Expo, Dirt Daze and finding ice cream on Canada Street in record time. Our schedule would have us in Lake George for less that 24 hours before putting the side stands up and motoring east through the smaller (mostly gravel) backroads of Vermont before crossing the Connecticut River and making our way across New Hampshire. We’d then take a fine overnight with our friends DeeDee and Richard right near the border with Maine.

Our first of a few ocean crossings would be from Portland, Maine to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia on The Cat Ferry – a supership if there ever was one.

The previous day we had received a message that a hard storm was swing up from the tropics and might cause a bit of snafu with the ferry. A phone call from The Cat folks confirmed this during dinner that night.

Our well made plans had been quickly skewed – but being solid travelers we knew that everything can have a silver lining and have long ago learned to roll with the punches when it come to big motorcycle trips.

It seemed that our quick run the next day to the The Cat now had become a free day in New Hampshire and Maine and we had plans already made.

We said goodbye and made an early start north towards our old friend the Madison Boulder. This boulder is the largest glacial erratic in North America and is well worth seeking out when in this part of New Hampshire.

Unfortunately, where you once were be able to ride your machine right up to this monstrous rock, the state has barricaded the old road and you have to hike a bit to get to it.

Waiting for us in the parking lot were brigades of hungry mosquitoes and we did not spend nearly enough time as we would have liked. It seemed we barely made it back safely to the bike, dizzy from lack of blood and the remaining plasma full of histamine.

Riding Nova Scotia

bottom to top and Back

Page 30

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS The Inn is as comfortable as can be and is a great home base to explore the rest of the region.

The town of Freeport has a number of restaurants and also a number of big time shops – with L.L. Bean dominating the center of town.

We spent a bunch of time and money here.

To Nova Scotia

Who decided to barricade this rock in the Live Free or Die State? Like someone could steal the likes of the Madison Boulder?

While up in the region we had to make one last stop at Whitehorse Gear to say a proper goodbye to our friends Dan and Judy Kennedy. After decades of being the “Go To” shop for everything and anything motorcycle they have closed their doors and it was sad to see the once filled to the brim warehouse nearly bare, but we were happy for them to turn another chapter in their already very full book.

We did need to make some time towards the coast so we went to a favorite place of ours, the Candlebay Inn in Freeport, Maine.

We started our day visiting a desert in Maine and then stopped by Eartha, the largest globe in the world, that is now owned by Garmin.

As we rolled by the new Garmin sign our Zumos immediately began to recalculate.

Go figure.

Heading into Portland we made a “must see” stop at the new and larger International Cryptozoology Museum – a favorite of Dr. O’Life’s and one of ours as well. Big Foot, Nessie and more can be found here in a concise and wellmanaged way. Interestingly enough when we pulled up there was a line around the block – but not for monsters, but brew – as the local Bissel Brewery is the place to be even at 10 am. You have to love a town that loves its beer that much! After spending some time at Loren Coleman’s museum we made a quick run to the ferry.

We always love ferry crossings and The Cat is always a special voyage.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 31 came off one boat and were making time towards another that would take us to the end of North America. But that’s another story.

The moon and the stars can follow the car and then when we get to the ocean We gonna take a boat to the end of the world All the way to the end of the world

THE CAT: PORTLAND, MAINE TO YARMOUTH, NOVA SCOTIA

Making the trip even brighter was running into a few fellow northwest New Jersey riders also heading to Nova Scotia. In fact two of them had just won Backroads subscriptions at the New Sweden 450 just a few weeks back.

It is sometimes a very small world.

The 200-mile crossing across the Bay of Maine took about six hours that were just a bit on the rough side from the previous day’s storm. Still it was pleasant enough and we were fortunate to get a tour of The Cat, having the pleasure of visiting the bridge. Truly amazing craft!

We disembarked a bit after dusk and as we headed east on the main road a bright orange and yellow full moon rose over the Atlantic, spilling across the trees and rivers; a bright beacon to follow or maybe keep watch over us.

It was magnificent and even though it was the smallest full moon of the year it filled the sky for us.

My music spun up Dave Matthews You and Me…the words truly fitting as we

The fastest way to get from Maine to Nova Scotia is The CAT! This high-speed ferry service runs from Portland, Maine to yarmouth, Nova Scotia and will save you the long, if slightly boring, run around New Brunswick.

The Cat literally jets you to yarmouth and allows you to quickly roll onto the great roads and spectacular scenery that Nova Scotia has to offer and you’ll experience the Maritimes the way they’re meant to be seen — by sea!

Powered by four Rolls-Royce Waterjets; The CAT is fast with a crossing time of just 5.5 hours.

Inside it is almost like a cruise ship, with food, a bar and live Acadian music for the evening crossings, which was far faster than we thought it would be.

It is full of onboard amenities and knowledgeable staff and crew, The CAT offered us a truly enjoyable ride across the Bay of Maine. We even got to tour the Cat and spent a bit of time on the bridge – which was very cool indeed.

Designated the HST-2 it was built in Alabama and called the Alakai, which means “sea path” in Hawaiian.

The Cat is a large ship as well – it displaces 1,646 tons and has a length of 349 feet and a beam of 78 feet. It has four decks and can carry 866 people, 282 cars and we packed a dozen motorcycles on our crossing as well. Fares start at $80 for adults and $101 for your bike each way.

If The Cat is an option for you - you should take it. Nothing compliments a motorcycle journey like adding an ocean voyage into the mix – we love The Cat – it is the best way to get to Nova Scotia.

Find out more on the Cat here: www.ferries.ca/thecat/

Page 32

We had a bit of time to make up so we headed north along the main route and then bounced along the coastal towns and hamlets that dot Nova Scotia’s scenic coast. We swung around the famed Peggy’s Cove – jammed on a sunny Sunday in June and followed the road as it rose and flowed with the harbors and inlets in a great riding fashion.

We stopped when and where we wished; taking in the sights as well as catching the scent of still blooming lilacs that had faded from our home a few weeks back.

We could do this all day – and we would.

Our original plan had us making it to Head of Jeddore and the Salmon River Country Inn the previous night.

Once a year they hold a Viking Dinner and luck would have it we would be staying there that night.

But, Lady Luck left us with the storm and as we rode along the coast and into Jeddore we spied the inn and felt it was time for lunch.

What a beautiful place - with great comfortable rooms, a comfortable deck over looking the water and a very homey feel to the place.

The Viking Dinner had authentic dishes from the Norse including Ox tongue, Chieftain’s Stew, cabbage dishes and soups.

We missed it, but the fried haddock and lobster rolls were fantastic and that was before Margit, the owner, brought out some of the Ox tongue from the previous night. Not only were we making up lost time, and miles, we were still getting fed like Vikings!

We rode around the perimeter of Halifax, cutting across the bay that once saw the largest manmade explosion before Trinity.

On the morning of December 6, 1917 the SS Mont-Blanc, a French cargo ship laden with high explosives, collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Narrows, a strait connecting the upper Halifax Harbor to Bedford Basin. Nearly 2,000 people were killed by blast, debris, fires and collapsed buildings and an estimated 9,000 others were injured. Part of Mont Blanc’s anchor shaft, weighing over 1100 pounds, flew clear over the city and landed more than two miles away.

They heard the explosion in Boston!

We continued along the coast and then headed inland, watching at least a half dozen ex-pat American Bald Eagles circling in the blue skies, while,

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

down below, we were dealing with the finicky nature of Nova Scotia weather. Temperatures along the water, with an oncoming wind, were down right chilly in the high 40s – but inland they would quickly rise to mid 80s.

There were a lot of layers being put on and off this day I tell ya.

Crossing the center of the island the two differing attitudes collided with some very heavy wind gusts pelting us around the pavement for miles till things finally settled down and we cruised across the Canso Causeway and onto Cape Breton proper.

Our route would bring us to North Sydney for the night, but offered some superb views of the region that the Cabot Trail calls home.

Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail On Cape Breton’s rocky shoreline, just east of Sydney, Nova Scotia, sits the Fortress of Louisbourg built around one of North America’s busiest 18thcentury seaports. Founded by the French in 1713, this one-quarter reconstruction of the original French town and fortifications is the largest – and best – of its kind in North America, and is a must for military history aficionados.

From here we would need to back track around Bras d’Or Lake, Cape Breton’s inland sea, and then up onto the famed Cabot Trail.

We have done this road a number of times, yet it never gets tired or old in our book.

If you ride to Nova Scotia then you should really ride the Cabot Trail – we prefer riding it counter-clockwise to keep close to the sea.

We made a pitstop at the General Store at Wreck Cove, one of those places that has a bit of everything, and got the lowdown on the multiple constructions that were happening along the Trail and the best way to avoid them and stay on the coast as well.

We took their advice and did a good job vectoring around a lot of the work and got to ride some roads we might not have been on without the local help.

We made our pilgrimage to Meat Cove – a remote community as far north as you can go in Nova Scotia and a place where we had camped years back with near a disastrous outcome. We have since visited back here at the end of the rough cliff road every time we have been to this region and have watched it develop from a barren camp to much more.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 33 To the Mainland Now back on the mainland of Nova Scotia (sort of) we went to search out a few of the roads, towns and sites we might have missed heading north.

The day started splendidly with bright sun, cloudless skies and warming temps. In a typical fashion we had grown used to while here in Canada’s Atlantics, that began to fade into a foggy day with the warmth being controlled by whether the sun had broken through the mist or not.

Low 50s and moist or high 60s and dry. Take your pick, as it would change sometimes by the mile or topography.

A lot of this trip had been about exploration. Our own travels, history’s famed explorers and navigators and some not so famous (but should be) - like Henry I Sinclair, Earl of Orkney.

Soon there will be a nice restaurant to add to the small cabins and everspectacular vistas available there now. A terrific place at land’s end.

We found lunch in Pleasant Bay and then rode down through MacKenzie Mountain as it began its winding descent, in a series of sweeping turns.

The view is awesome and quite overwhelming and is one of the most photographed regions of Nova Scotia with good reason.

We filled up in Chéticamp, rolling into the Petro Canada station on fumes and then continued down the Saint Lawrence coast, eventually crossing back over the Canso Causeway and calling it a night at the Cove Motel – a favorite of ours and a Backroads’ Moto-Inn member.

They have great rooms right on the Canso and a restaurant and offer a discount simply because we rolled up on motorcycles.

We love places like this.

Page 34

Outside Guysborough we found a monument to this intrepid Scot and learned the story that he, along with his crew, landed on Nova Scotia shores, like Leif Erickson, 100 years before Columbus.

The more you look into this story the more the facts begin to make sense – but, we can all agree this is more O’Life’s game than Shira and mine.

Keeping with the theme of exploration we rode to the sleepy “Seen better days” port town of Canso.

In the recent past the 400-year-old fishing village has struggled to stay afloat, and times have been so tough the town was dissolved five years ago.

Now, tiny Canso is being touted as the future home of Canada’s only commercial spaceport. Yes, Space Port!

Who’d have thunk it?

Maritime Launch Services has recently announced that it has committed to establishing a launch complex near Canso.

The Halifax-based company, which is a joint venture of three U.S.-based firms, said it chose Canso after an assessment of 14 potential locations across North America.

In the 1880s, the community was the landing spot for a key subsea communications cable between North America and Europe. The cable was used to transmit news of the Titanic disaster in 1912 and later carried word of the end of the First World War in 1918.

Canso and the region’s legacy of exploration seem to be ready to continue.

Searching out a bit more of known, factual and provable history we made a stop at the Parc de Nos Ancêtres.

Built of 11 painted standing stones shaped into an anchor this is a small, but well done monument to the history of the French settlers – the Acadians –

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

and what they went through, their troubles with the British and their eventual exodus to other parts of North and South America.

The Cajuns of Louisiana are direct descendants of these people and the name Acadian has its roots from the native Mi’kmaq who called their new home “Algatig” meaning camp. That eventually became Acadian and the Cajun. Just another bit of ancient history.

Did you know the Mi’kmaq were the only Native tribe to have a written language and their symbols almost exactly match ancient Chinese?

There is another line of thought, with some new archeological backing, that has the Chinese getting here too - of course before Columbus - who is really taking a beating on the discovery of the New World.

The ride went in and out of the sunshine and the fog all day long, as we had the next few days set up as a 500 mile ride towards Yarmouth and The Cat Ferry back to the USA. We tried our best to ride around Halifax, yet still managed to get caught up in their after rush hour traffic, before braking free and taking picturesque and semi-technical Route 33 towards the famed Peggy’s Cove.

Shira spent a semester in Halifax and Peggy’s Cove was always her escape and remains one of her favorite places on the planet and I easily understand why.

It is everything the coast of Nova Scotia should be. Rocky and wavy, the land and the ocean at Saint Margaret’s Bay meet in a rough dance and that dance is not the ballet, but more a tango.

We spun around the tiny town that has not changed in years, and then we found the Clifty Cove Motel, a small seaside spot that had a room left – just south of the Memorial to Swiss Air Flight 111.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 35

Fresh local oysters, lobster grilled cheese and chowder was sought out for the night and we dined along a small bay as the skies finally opened up and drenched the region with winds and a hard rain; a fine, if soggy, way to end the first day of summer.

Back to Yarmouth The morning fog burned off quickly as we got to visit something remarkably rare – Peggy’s Cover without the crowds – as we were there at 7am.

I could see why it is one of Shira’s favorite places, with its superb mix of rock, sea and sky. We spent a bit of time here and also at the Flight 111 site.

On September 2nd of 2008 the Swiss Air flight was flying from New York to Geneva when a fire occurred in the cabin. The crew tried to divert to Halifax but crashed into the sea at over 500 miles per hour, just off Peggy’s Cove with the loss of all on board.

The monument is touching and stately at the same time.

Our coastal route brought us through the many coves and hamlets and we made one sidetrack to a place that has fascinated me for years - Oak Island.

On this little Nova Scotia island there has been talk of buried treasure for hundreds of years and with each attempt to uncover it the island’s mysteries

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grow in size. There is even a History Channel series called The Curse of Oak Island where two brothers have been trying to find the booty using modern techniques. They have been at it for a number of seasons now and still going strong, as the island had signs posted and the causeway blocked by a manned earthmover when we arrived.

It seems they were filming this day and had closed off the entire island for this. We’d love to see them find the answers to this century-long mystery.

Just south of Oak Island there is the town of Lunenburg, one of those picture perfect Nova Scotian port towns, complete with working harbor, museum, inns and restaurants right on the bay.

This had to be the best day weather-wise of this entire journey and breakfast on the water was a great way to keep it going.

Staying with our plan to follow the coast we continued eating up the miles towards Yarmouth, finding mid-afternoon coffee and dessert in Shelburne.

This is a town with history.

Shelburne Harbour claims to have the third best natural harbor in the world.

The native Mi’kmaq traversed the Roseway River and used the surrounding lands for summer encampments long before these shores were visited by Spanish, Portuguese and French fishermen.

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS a “second” underwater craft USO (unidentified submerged object) joined the first. Common belief at the time was that the second craft had arrived to render aid to the first.

At this time, the Canadian CG had decided to wait and watch. After about a week of monitoring the two UFOs, some of the vessels were called to investigate a Russian submarine, which had entered Canadian waters. At this point, the two underwater crafts made their move. They made their way to the Gulf of Maine, and putting distance between

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In the spring of 1783, 5,000 settlers arrived on the shores of Shelburne Harbor from New themselves and the chasing York and the middle colonies of AmerNavy boats, they broke the ica. Assurance of living under the British flag, and NOT the Cat but a short cable ferry surface, and shot away into promises of free land, tools, and provisions lured many from Middle to West LaHave the skies. to the British Colonies at that time.

That is the story – we’re The town still celebrates its Tory roots in a big way. just reporting it.

Speaking of British invasions; as Shira and I walked past one restaurant a What these objects really Beatles songs carried on the harbor winds… were and what really ocYou and I have memories curred to bring in such a Longer than the road that stretches out ahead show of military is still up to On our way back home debate.

We’re on our way home We were happy to see the And, indeed we were.

December, 2008 issue of We had one last place we needed to visit and that would be the UFO MuBackroads on display at the seum at Shag Harbor. museum as Seymour O’Life On the evening on October 4th, 1967 an unknown object was spotted flying had featured the center alswiftly over the coast before it flew into the sea, right off Shag Harbor. Many most a decade back. believed it to be an aircraft, but when the Canadian Coast Guard arrived on From Shag Harbor it was a the scene things got strange. There was something under the waves and it short run along the coves and was big and slowly on the move. Then the US Navy showed up, as did a shoreline to Yarmouth, where we would pick up The Cat early next morning Russian submarine. It became an international spectacle. for the 200-mile sail back to Portland, Maine and, eventually, back home.

After a couple of days, the military was planning a salvage operation, when

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017 This region of Canada’s Maritimes is well within reach and The Cat ferry from Portland, Maine to the southern point of Nova Scotia makes it that much easier.

Nova Scotia is a seafaring land with a rugged inland that has a long series of roadway trails that will bring you to the very heart of this part of Canada and can be done in a long week’s ride.

We know we will be back.

RESOURCES:

International Cryptozoology Museum cryptozoologymuseum.com 4 Thompsom’s Point Rd #106, Portland, ME see website for hours and admission cost

www.ferries.ca/thecat Salmon River Country Inn salmonrivercountryinn.ca • 902-889-2233 9931 Hwy 7, Trunk 7, Head of Jeddore, NS

Wreck Cove General Store wreckcovegeneralstore.com 42470 Cabot Trail, Birch Plain, NS

Meat Cove Campgrounds meatcovecampgrounds.ca • 902-383-2379 2479 Meat Cove Rd, Capstick, NS

Cove Motel & Restaurant covemotel.com • 902-747-2700 298 D - 31 Rd, Auld’s Cove, NS

Clifty Cove Motel cliftycovemotel.com • 888-254-3892 8444 Peggy’s Cove Rd, Indian Harbour, NS

Shag Harbour Incident Society shagharbourincident.wordpress.com 902-723-0127 5619 Hwy 3, Shag Harbour, NS

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

ON THE ROAD

Worth the ride from anywhere!

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983 Member of

WITH THE

HONDA AFRICA TWIN

I got a chance to spend some time with Honda’s new Adventure Tourer the Africa Twin (CRF1000L) last spring – with just a day riding on the street and another scooting around the Slick Rock region of the Utah desert.

I liked the bike then, but we were not able to get our hands on one for a real world road report until right before our Summer Squeeze rally.

Timing is everything!

This newest Africa Twin- virtually unchanged from last year - came with what was called the European paint scheme; a stunning metal flake white with red and blue stripes sporting gold spoke rims. Just sexy!

This machine is powered by a 998cc liquid-cooled 4-stroke Unicam 8valve Parallel Twin offering plenty of useable power. The final drive is handled by a chain and the Africa Twin has two, very different, options to get that power to the chain; a conventional 6-speed transmission or, what our machine came with, Honda’s Dual Clutch Transmission – which has a few options of its own.

There is no clutch, nor shifter. To get into drive you push a button. Then there are the three-stage Sport modes or, as I did, just put it into drive and press another button to go into manual shifting and use the paddles to upshift or downshift as needed – much like a Formula One car.

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To be truthful there is a lot of button pushing going on here and I sometimes felt like Batman & Robin about to drive off in the Batmobile – atomic batteries to power, turbines to speed – let’s roll out!

Okay, ignition, turn down or off Torque Control, turn off ABS, put into Drive, pop into Sport-mode, switch off automatic to manual – now let’s roll out!

Yes, yes – I know – way too much to do.

BUT….

Honda’s DCT is brilliant. Let me say this again BRILLIANT! But, more on this later.

The gauges, although offering plenty of information, do so in that cluttered Japanese LED way and each time I looked for information I had to struggle to decipher what I was really looking at, which took eye time off the road. Not good.

The riding position was spot on for me and the bike, though tall (Standard position 34.3/Low position 33.5 inches) is very slender and it weighs in at 511 pounds fully wet and ready to ride.

The seat is comfortable for about 100 miles and then you need to reach for the Monkey Butt Powder.

Hello, after market. (I should have grabbed my Bead Rider pad) Those gold wheels are a thing of beauty, but here is my real major grumble with Honda’s engineers. The bike comes with an 18-inch rear and 21-inch front – both with tubed tires.

I completely understand that this machine came from the dirt side of Honda (compared to a BMW GS, which is kinda a street machine with long legs) – but for me at least, a version of this bike with a 17-inch rear and a 19-inch front, both running tubeless tires would be key to buying one for myself. It has been a long time since I had to change a tube and I would like to keep that streak going.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 39 Honda… a second, more streetable version…maybe?

Just sayin’.

The engine has more than enough power for me on and off road for sure and uses the Honda Selective Torque Control (HSTC) featuring three settings for a wide range of conditions, from pavement to gravel and beyond.

Range-wise the 5 gallon tank will stretch to 200 miles if need be.

Keeping all this planted the Africa Twin uses a specially built inverted Showa fork with huge 45mm fork tubes and 9.0 inches of travel. It’s fully adjustable for both compression and rebound damping. The rear suspension is fully adjustable, offering

8.7 inches of rear-wheel travel with a remote preload adjuster.

In normal riding conditions the Africa Twin was fine, but I did find the bike a tad light up front at fast highway speeds – that 21-inch rubber no doubt. Our Africa Twin was shod with Dunlop Trailmax tires which offered great on-road performance and decent enough grip in the loose gravel roads and occasional muck of Vermont. If I were to have this machine in a state like Vermont, with its thousands of miles of dirt roads, I would opt for a more aggressive gravel-oriented tire.

The Africa Twin comes with ABS, which can be turned off quickly with a press of a button if you are going off-road. There is also a G button for riding in more gnarly conditions.

Spending a few weeks and a couple thousand miles with the CRF1000L I found it to be a formidable machine. It has plenty of power and the DCT, once you get it down, is really the way of the future.

You can still be shifting, but it is just how you are doing it that makes the difference.

I would come out of a tight switchback turn and into a longer straight and just wrap open the throttle and paddle shift up through the gears.

Second…. third….. fourth…. fifth – it is so much fun, is very quick and had the F1 flair to it!

When it comes time to stop, just paddle shift down and, even if you are lazy, the bike will go back to first gear when you come to a stop.

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

There is an accessory “Foot Shifter” ($299) available from Honda to make it a bit more natural for some.

On a day-long dual sport ride In Vermont, following a bunch of much smaller Honda 250s, the one-liter machine surely held its own, it’s off-road bloodline and design shining through.

Our Africa Twin came with the hard luggage ($725 option) that Honda has available for the bike. They offer a decent amount of room and they easily swallowed my camera bag and a few days worth of gear with some extra room to spare. The bags themselves operated in two ways – perfectly well or not - occasionally they would get persnickety when it came to closing them.

Two buckles snap closed and an internal latch lock them down and tight. It fought with me half the time and was a bit frustrating – especially when I had a group of riders sitting watching and waiting…. waiting.

That aside…. would I buy one? Could I live with the Africa Twin day to day?

Let me give a decisive answer - maybe.

First there is the entry fee - at a starting point of $13,299 the Africa Twin could be the best deal in the ADV world. Comparing it to the BMW GS ($18,895) or the KTM 1190 ($16,699) or KTM 1290 Super Adventure ($20,499) it is easy to do the math.

Then there is the fact that it is a Honda –it will probably always start, always run well and rarely burn your wallet for service. There is that.

I wish heated grips came stock, but they are a $229 option – so sign me up. A top case is also available ($300 w/mounts), as is a taller windscreen ($170).

A center stand will be an additional $199.

All of which can be done at purchase and, added up, still will cost you less than it will cost you just to park at a European dealership.

It’s a great looking machine and performs well on road and kicks ass off. It is almost everything you would want in an ADV machine.

Still… the tubed tires thing…feh. I grew up in NYC. I love to ride in faraway countries and gravel roads don’t scare me – but I am not some desert child that has been changing flat tubes since they were 6 years old.

Today tubeless tires are the norm, are easy to run and easy to fix. If that was the case I could see this bike in my barn all the time – well, not all the time. Maybe not really at all. I would be too busy riding it. ~ Brian Rathjen

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

2017 HONDA GROM • HOW MUCH FUN CAN YOU HAVE JUST 30 INCHES OFF THE GROUND? Shira rolled up to the light along a small road in the farmlands of Sussex County, New Jersey. The guy on the bike next to her, a four-stroke thumper dirt bike, now converted with 17inch street tires and a Yosh exhaust, glanced her way and she gave him her best Rossi race face – “Hey, you and me – right here, right now.”

To emphasize the challenge she gave the Grom a few good, if quiet, blips of the throttle.

“You want a piece of me?” he asked laughing.

She did.

The two looked to the light as it went to red on one side and then green to them.

It was on……

And, then quickly over as the guy tore away, lifting the 400cc machine’s front wheel in defiance and tore off down the country lane and into the distance as Shira and her Grom made the putt across the intersection only half laughing at her drubbing.

Let us get this straight - Backroads does not condone street racing. But, the challenge was there and she accepted.

For a travel magazine like Backroads, doing a road test of Honda’s Grom micro-bike might seem a bit off, but riding is supposed to be about fun, right? If that is so, then the Honda Grom more than fits the bill.

Each staffer that took the Grom for a spin ended up riding it for far longer than they thought they would and then each one of them had a hard time removing their helmets as the wide grin etched on their faces prevented them from doing so.

Yes, it is small - just 225 lbs. wet and a hair under 30 inches at the saddle.

The 124.9cc air-cooled single cylinder four-stroke engine putting out a mind-blowing 9 horses, according to the Backroads Dyno and, although highway-legal in some states, the Grom is definitely not highway-advisable. Top speed is a claimed 56 mph. Shira achieved 63 mph just once - at full throttle, on a long downhill, with a strong tailwind.

Still, with the cross country ready 1.45 gallons and Honda’s claim of 134 MPG - your range should easily keep up with the big kids – even if you don’t.

Still, there is that grin-factor happening and that counts for a lot.

The bike had hydraulic discs from and rear, so stop-

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS ping is spot on as well as the surprisingly workable suspension too.

The Grom is incredibly easy to ride and would make a great starter machine for that young one in the family – a kind of “Gateway Drug” you can actually appreciate and encourage.

Honda has a hard time holding onto these machines. Over the last few years they have gathered a big following and in some areas Grom Clubs are commonplace. The aftermarket for this machine has grown from a cottage industry to a serious endeavor.

The 2017 Grom lists for $3,299 and is available in Matte Gray Metallic, Pearl Red, Pearl White or Bright Yellow. Our Pearl White machine drew crowds and gawkers where ever it was ridden.

The Grom is a fun little, rideable, machine that works well around town, in the pits and is a great way to introduce young ones to the joys of riding.

Now if Honda will just forget we have it we will use it happily for the rest of the season. ~ Brian Rathjen

YAMAHA STAR VENTURE • POWER, TECHNOLOGY AND COMFORT Yamaha has introduced the all-new Star Venture touring motorcycle model combining a new level of power, technology and comfort features that will redefine the luxury touring motorcycle market.

Powered by an air-cooled 113 cubic inch (1854cc) V-twin fuel-injected engine, the Star Venture incorporates never-before-seen features on a touring model like forward-reverse ‘Sure Park’ parking assist, dual-zone audio capability, “Drive Mode” settings that adjust throttle response, traction control, adjustable rider backrest, heated grips as well as rider/passenger seats and backrests, a fully featured infotainment system and more.

The Star Venture boasts a massive and torque-rich 113 cubic inch (1854cc) air-cooled V-twin engine with a class-leading 126 pound-feet of torque providing smooth and responsive power delivery even when fully loaded. The engine’s semi-dry-sump design lowers the effective center of gravity by allowing the engine to sit lower in the frame. An external oil tank is integrated into the aluminum subframe to centralize mass and reduce weight, and a compact oil cooler is hidden between the front frame down tubes to help maintain

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017 ideal engine temperatures.

Developed specifically for the needs of longdistance touring, the Star Venture’s new six-speed transmission features ratios chosen to make the most of the huge low-end torque – from brisk acceleration in lower gears to relaxed highway cruising. At 75 MPH in sixth gear, the Star Venture cruises along at an ultra-smooth 2750 RPM. The most technologically advanced luxury touring model in history, the Star Venture features a new Yamaha Sure-Park System that provides forward and reverse drive modes simplifying otherwise potentially tricky parking situations, even on rough or poor traction surfaces.

Yamaha’s Chip Controlled Throttle a ride-by-wire throttle control system provides precise and refined responsiveness. Yamaha D-Mode allows the rider to choose from two different throttle response settings – an ultra-smooth touring mode, and a sport mode for sharper response, while the traction control system helps prevent wheel spin when dealing with reduced traction road conditions.

A finely-tuned cruise control system also comes standard on the Star Venture providing for less fatigue and improved fuel economy.

Paired alternators – mounted low and forward in the engine cases – provide ample electrical power for the heated seats and grips, audio system and lighting. With 750 watts of total output, riders can add common electrical accessories and usual heated apparel without taxing the motorcycle’s charging system.

The all-new Star Venture features a state-of-the-art infotainment system mounted high in the cockpit for maximum visibility. A 7-inch full-color LCD screen displays an array of information. Controlled via touchscreen, handlebar controls or voice commands via accessory headset and mic, the infotainment package gives the rider access to vehicle control and data, a range of audio sources and wireless Bluetooth communications options.

Boasting paired high-performance speakers, the Star Venture audio package features AM/FM radio and can also play pre-recorded music or stream Pandora from a smart phone via the onboard USB, AUX stereo or Bluetooth wireless connection options.

The Star Venture is built around an advanced hybrid chassis designed for light, agile handling with confidence-inspiring stability.

Braking confidence is achieved through high-performance, triple-disc brakes featuring advanced electronic control. Yamaha’s Unified Braking System dynamically adjusts front and rear brake force balance in real time to ensure linear braking feel and power, and Yamaha’s refined antilock braking system (ABS) prevents wheel lock-ups when dealing with reduced traction road conditions.

Up front, the 18-inch wheel features a 130/70 radial tire for light and neutral steering feel, while the rear 16inch rim mounts a large 200/55 radial for stunning style and road grip.

A stylish full-coverage fairing provides ample wind protection, and the electronically adjustable windscreen offers more than 3.5 inches of vertical positioning. The Star Venture also includes a class-leading 6.6-gallon fuel tank and all-LED lighting. The side cases, top case and upper and lower faring storage compartments provide a combined total of 37.3 gallons of storage volume.

The USB outlet-equipped fairing storage compartment, side cases and top case all feature electric locking lids straight from the factory. Yamaha’s Smart Key system with remote key fob allows for easy access to the luggage system and fuel tank cap, offers an “answer-back” function for locating the motorcycle in a crowded parking area and provides for simplified starting.

A range of infotainment upgrades are available with the Star Venture Transcontinental Option Package, in-

Page 43 cluding GPS navigation with points-of-interest and route logging to help simplify the planning, sharing and uploading of ride routes from a home computer. A CB radio system can link riders to other road users, while SiriusXM and SiriusXM Travel Link provides satellite music, weather and traffic information. With an extra pair of high-output passenger speakers and Yamaha’s exclusive Dual Zone audio control – allowing rider and passenger to select different audio sources, hold private phones calls and more with an accessory headset and mic – the Transcontinental Option Package offers one of the most advanced infotainment systems ever featured on a motorcycle.

So now you can ride apart while still being together?

The all-new Star Venture will be available in Granite Gray and Raspberry Metallic at Yamaha dealers with a MSRP of $24,999 for base models, and $26,999 for models equipped with the Transcontinental Option Package. To find out more about the Star Venture, visit: www.yamahamotorsports.com/transcontinental-touring/models/2018/ star-venture or www.yamahamotorsports.com.

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

PRODUCT REVIEW • CONTI TRAILATTACK 2 TIRES • HIGH MILEAGE & GREAT HANDLING When we knew we’d be up north in Newfoundland for a few weeks with about 5,000 miles of riding, we looked to find a tire for Shira’s F650 GS twin that would give optimum performance as well as significant mileage.

Sometimes with tires you get one or the other. We are happy to report with Continental’s Conti TrailAttack 2 tires you get both.

From the very beginning these tires were created especially for big and powerful dual-sport motorcycles.

We found with the lighter loads put on these tires by the mid-size GS engine the tires far out-performed what we asked of them.

The unusual tread pattern not only catches the eye – it works incredibly well at dispersing water. We found them to be an excellent rain tire.

Made with an innovative compounding technology the Conti TrailAttack 2 tires offered a sure grip and confidence in the many terrains that we’d find up in Ultima Thule. Shira got a good 8,000 hard, well traveled miles out of these tires and they performed well till the very end.

Compared with other tires in this class the TrailAttack 2 use a stronger carcass along with a progressive tread pattern design on the front wheel which ensures increased precision and optimized wear behavior and Conti’s TractionSkin ensures extremely safe and short run-in time.

A 0° steel belted construction on the rear wheel aids in enhanced stability and comfort even at high speeds and with large payloads, like the fully packed ride along the road north to the Viking settlement at L’Anse aux Meadows.

There is a reason that these tires are found as original equipment on KTM 1190 Adventure, KTM 1190 Adventure R and BMW R 1200 GSs.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017 On gravel roads they did a decent enough job, although these are not hardcore ADV tires by any means, but still tractable enough for the long unpaved stretches we seem to find ourselves on every now and again.

If you are looking for a tire that is a bit different looking, yet offers that

PRODUCT REVIEW

Page 45 magic combination of performance and longevity and high mileage than take a look at the Conti TrailAttack 2 tires – you will find them available for most ADV machine sizes. Log onto www.continental-tires.com for more information and exact sizes and fitment. ~ Brian Rathjen

DUNLOP ROADSMART III “PERFORMANCE TOURING” TIRES

I’ve been a fan of Dunlop’s Roadsmart tires since I had Roadsmart II’s as an OEM fitment on my Ninja 650, but frankly, I never considered them for something as large as my BMW R1200RT; consequently, when I got the chance to try a set of the new Roadsmart III’s, I was eager.

Dunlop bills the III’s as a “Performance Touring” tire and I certainly wanted to wring them out accordingly, so I put them on my RT before the Backroads Summer Squeeze Rally. I knew I’d be running two-up with my wife and fully loaded with a week’s worth of clothes and other burdens, so the bike would weigh in the area of 1,200 lb total. Between the 1,200 mile round trip to Vermont and back and the 1,000 miles or so of daily riding while there, it would give me a fair idea of their wear characteristics.

I first got an idea of the tire’s wet grip when we encountered some rain at the East side of the Annapolis Bay Bridge and the tires showed no signs of giving up grip or hydroplaning. We also got to check this on the way home, when we were skirting the edges of thunderstorms and I had to take us around some roundabouts and tight on-ramps in the rain. Again, their wet grip was confidence-inspiring.

As for dry grip, we had plenty of opportunities to evaluate that during our forays up and down the length of Vermont. Even two-up, the III’s gave me peg-feeler-touchdown capability on the big RT without any hint of negative feedback. There was definitely grip to spare. Although Vermont wasn’t hot enough to cause them to be tacky, even tar snakes weren’t cause for concern.

What was REALLY surprising, however, was their performance on dirt and gravel. Vermont has more than its share of unpaved roads and sometimes, the paved road just ends and becomes a hard-packed yellow clay fes-

tooned with sprays of gravel. We probably rode 20 miles or more total of these roads over the week and the Roadsmart III’s never put a foot wrong as our Brit friends like to say.

Crossing over loose gravel crowns to go from wheel track to wheel track was a non-event, even two-up.

After over 2,000 miles of travel on a fully-loaded bike, running everything from “enthusiastic” highway speeds on dry pavement to prudent rates on dirt and gravel and over wet roads, there was a little flatness in the middle of the rear tire, but not much. I was impressed that there weren’t any cuts from sharp gravels. These tires are tough and appear like they will produce fair mileages before replacement.

Color me a big fan of the new Roadsmart III’s, even on something as imposing as a fully-loaded R1200RT facing a five-mile stretch of Vermont’s finest hardpacked dirt and gravel. They earned their “Performance Touring” moniker.

Dunlop Roadsmart III’s are available in many sizes – check with your local Dunlop dealer for your bike and pricing. www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com ~ Mark Byers

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Round We Go, What We Learn Nobody Knows!

Words: Dana Beisner There are primordial instincts that you just can’t explain. Much like a salmon returns to the same river to spawn and die, I have always wanted to ride my GS on a closed track. The irony is that I don’t particularly want to go fast, and have no aspirations of racing. For the most part, I am a jack-oftrades and master of none—a commuter, off-road adventurer, and endurance rally rider. However, I love the challenge of technical cornering, and to that end, I am questing the next level. Most sporting events have a natural progression of classes; however, I’ve had a difficult time dipping my toe into track schools, as they have been a prohibitively expensive proposition. First, as a short female, I have little hope that a rental one-piece leather suit would come close to fitting my curvaceous outline which is adorned with t-rex length arms. Secondly, “race” prepping my commuter bike for a 2 day track seems like a month long project once the safety wiring, flushing the radiator with non-glycol solution and removing the lights/glass.

With extraordinary luck, Morton’s BMW sponsored Reg Pridmore’s CLASS Motorcycle School for two days at Virginia International Raceway in Alton, VA. And, the tech requirements are such that I can meet them!

Does everyone remember that wretched time of year, when the tape tries to wrap you up as you try in vain to wrap a square box? Who knew that was just a warm up session to taping up a rear brake light on a motorcycle. With my bike in good mechanical condition and my textile riding suit, I am all but ready to conquer tech inspection.

VIR was apparently first developed in the 1950s. It was bankrupted in the 1970s. A consortium bought it in the 1990s, and completed construction to the current status. The place is adorable from top to bottom, and everything from the delicious coconut seabass dinner at the Oak Tree Tavern, to Jacuzzi bathtub at The Lodge trackside rooms which overlook turn 6, the perfectly manicured lawns, to the billiard table perfect track tarmac.

As I approach the VIR perimeter gate on the afternoon before class, I am instructed to sign a release and follow the signs for “go-carting”, which apparently will lead me to my room at The Lodge. No sooner do I dismount the bike, a swarm of pissed-off bumble bees can be heard approaching. In

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fact, they are not bees at all, but race modified Mazda Miatas clearing turns 4-6 just a stone’s throw from The Lodge’s balcony.

I ponder if those are the supposed “go carts” the signs allude to. No sooner than I delight in watching them for a few laps, they are done. A Zambonitype sweeper the size of a small corn combine whirls into action scrubbing every inch of the track and darkness falls on the track.

The key to succeeding (and the winner’s podium) at any event that relies on you mounted either another creature such as a horse, or machine such as a motorcycle is as follows; In order to win the event, you must first complete the course while still mounted. In principle, sounds obvious eh? I have spent a fortune on all types of training classes, and that moral has always been the same. It remains to be seen if that fortune was large (probable) or small. We arrive at staging this am, first to sign our lives away (literally), to include a witnessed signature, then tech inspection. Tech inspection of my GS is met with quizzical thoughts from the tech inspectors, as the luggage racks, crash bars, aux fuel tank and clutch/rear brake wiring for crash and brush resistance makes little sense to them. In my defense, they see VIR as a 2.25-mile ribbon of tarmac surrounded by pristinely manicured lawns. I look at the same area through the bars of my GS, and gaze over 1300 acres of pristinely manicured

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017 GS territory that is interrupted occasionally by tarmac. Morton’s BMW is known for their hometown welcoming feel and this event is no different—the VIR staging crew remarked what an eclectic group we were from fully prepped race bikes, to S1000s, K and R bikes, the full GS line up, even a lonely Harley! While I am not sure I saw anyone fail tech, there sure were a bunch of do overs.

Most of the sport bike guys hadn’t even wore off the tire whiskers, so it’s not for lack of trying that everyone gets to this point.

Reggie is a delightful Brit, and he starts off with a short speech. The rules of the track are few. It would appear they would be content if we only did 3 things. First, when you leave staging, stay within 2 feet of the right lane until you enter the first turn. Secondly, while you can technically pass on any turn, you must do so on the outside. Realistically, there are only 4 areas that are primed for passing, but they don’t damper our spirits by telling us that bit. Lastly, raise your left hand as you exit back to staging. We are divided into our somewhat disproportionately sized groups. Those that can spell “track” in A, and all others in B. Yes, no stress, you chose your own destiny by self-evaluating. This means we probably have a 15/35 split. Believe me, I am less than excited about the math on this one as my class has the larger number of riders, but remember one must end the event still mounted!

So, the A students leave the pit area parking to staging. Naturally, they swing wide to stage at the outside of 3 lanes. This leaves the B group to make a sharp right hand slow speed turn to the near-side of the staging lanes. Well, ain’t this a hoot to watch all these sport bikes attempt to turn tightly at walking speed. The little GS shows them the way, but I am certain that there will be pile of bikes turtled before they all line up.

Miraculously, they somehow all find a staging spot unscathed. With that, the B group is led on a site survey with Reggie and his megaphone in hand.

We go about 1/3rd of a mile, to the 4th turn and pull over. Reggie begins his mega phone spell as we watch the A group do their instructor-controlled warm up laps. No sooner than Reggie can start pointing at the passing A group, a rider goes ass-over-teakettle! While I might be stuck with the B group, at least I won’t be brandished as “that guy” today. Thankfully, this will be the first and last happenstance of the day. We stop at one more turn for megaphone discussions before we are led around for our survey laps.

Page 47 The rotation is 20 mins Group A, then 20 mins Group B. It’s a really full day that runs with the precision of a London train schedule. CLASS racing has rented the entire facility replete with fire, medic, flaggers and staging controllers. It appears that a normal herd of control flags exceeds, but thankfully, there are only 3 flags for us to worry about today—yellow flag (caution), red flag (exit course at staging lane for down rider), and checkered flag (end of session).

The second round kicks off with a CLASS instructor leading 8 riders at a very slow pace.

This is perhaps their subtle way of asking us to start every session by warming the tires (remember Group A’s mishap?). Without cause, all the instructors peel off to the staging lanes. We all wonder if we were supposed to follow. However, the flagmen aren’t doing anything. The instructors are just letting everyone have a go and feel themselves out. Much like a young horse needs to get the bucks out while being lunged; the riders apparently aren’t in any mood to receive data. Damnit, they paid to ride a track, and ride a track they will. But then, our little voice brings us back. Have we been given a free pass to run with scissors? Do we really lack any adult supervision? Where is my wubby blankie?

ERIC MILANO GUEST TOUR GUIDE @ BACKROADS’ SUMMER SQUEEZE JULY 16-19, 2017

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SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Soon enough the instructors filter back out. With the precision of a cowboy roping steer, they select the rider with which they will team. If they point to their tail plate, its game on and you should follow them. My hats off to them, that they can ride that kind of course and still keep track of the rider behind them constantly adjusting their speed to match your abilities. Sometimes they put you in front. But the one-on-one rides always end with a debriefing in the staging lanes.

As you come by the last turn, there is road that leads back to staging—you have two options. WOT on the track, or you can ride slowly (!) through staging. The latter option, while initially unappetizing, offers two advantages.

First if you are stuck in a mob ball, you can let them proceed and by the time you ride slowly through staging you might re-renter turn 1 and have the next lap on the track to yourself. Secondly, you can pick up an instructor to ride a few laps. WOT, on the other hand, I was told you could get to 155MPH. Riding a dual sport bike, I am thinking, sweet—I am glad they installed that mineshaft because finding vertical terminal velocity is the only way I will get to that speed. In fact, while really honking down the backstretch, I will barely break triple digits. The main problem I find is that pesky turn one at the end of 1/4 mile stretch.

As the swiss clock reveals, our 20 minites is up. When that happens, we are ushered back into the pit area. We dismount and head into the class room.

Reggie spends the next 20 minutes talking about topics that you have probably heard at any basic MSF course. Remarkable really, a world class racer, and it all boils down to the same riding basics.

One thing that Reggie is legendary for is smoothness. Again, in order to win the competition, man and machine must stay mounted and finish under their own power. He attributes much of his success to not tearing up his transmissions—his method as follows: blipping the throttle, clutch in about 1/3rd, then shifting. By raising the RPMs first, the tranny has an easier time meshing to the next gear. He also stresses the importance of riding in high RPMs, as engine braking is your friend. I think that I misconstrue this point, as much of my day is riding near red line. Who knew that 4th gear goes to 90 MPH before hitting the revlimiter.

The afternoon sessions are interlaced with open forum discussion of issues we are having. We discuss line selections on unsuspecting corners which are lulling us into a false complacency, and dragging us beyond any reason-

Join Us in 2017

Trackside waiting for the morning mist to rise

able apex. Lap times are certainly faster. I was having a hoot with an instructor Gery, mounted on his personal HP4. Damn that bike just explodes out of turns. His pace dragged me perhaps a bit out of my comfort zone. But keep your eyes on his tail and ride on. His line really set me up well for the first turn—bike in a good RPM, good line, good body position, loose on the handle bars...and then. Then I realize my line is not his line. With that, I don’t panic, but instead instinctively (over) weight that inside peg. Okay, I get that pegs are for feet to rest. Yes, I’ve always peg-steered while off road, but really, the change is remarkable on a track. The more you know! By the end of the day, my odometer will clock a bit over 130 miles, leaving me feeling that the VIR’s North Course has offered all of her spoils in that 2.25 mile lap.

I should have realized that Day 2 would have been tougher. Tougher in the sense I damn near drown myself in the Jacuzzi last night whilst try as I might to rejuvenate. I pondered if a 2 day class was worth my money, or if I just won’t enjoy myself in this tired condition. No sooner than I can cogitate on those thoughts, we are ushered out on the warm up laps. The track has a surreal feeling this morning. I am thankful to realize that the turns and track layout seem more intuitive today, as if the little people in my head needed the night to let sights and sounds of yesterday sink in. As the morning dew begins to lift off the track and the sun raises under cloudless blue skies, my energy also lifts. Today will be good indeed.

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 49

Despite having 8 instructors for the class, most are working hard today for their Wheaties. Yes, I make a few passes through pit row to find one, but nary one to be had. The instructor cadre was an interesting dynamic to watch.

While all were nimble like cats, they would engage each other at every opportunity, questing for that nugget to make their rides better too. It’s then that one mentioned: “You are either green and growing your knowledge or ripe red and rotting.”

It’s true though. While luck and passion can get you far, staying at the top of any game requires strategy, skill and learning. About midday, the B group is getting pretty cheeky on the track. Soon enough, someone decides that there is absolutely no reason to set up for turn 1, you can just try out that nice run off grass field. Sigh, two days and two offs.

photo: Brad Schwab etechphoto.com

photo: Brad Schwab etechphoto.com

After lunch, Reggie is offering 2-up sessions with him at the helm, and I am all game. He’s fancied himself on a S1000. Anybody can drone on all day about textbook examples of how you need to do everything without upsetting the bike’s suspension, but he’s the real deal—silky smooth. One technique he talked about to learn smoother shifting is chose a speed around 50 or 60MPH on a straight road. Row down the gears 6-5-4-3 then back up 34-5-6, but you can’t speed up or slow down off that speed. No popping the clutch, no herky-jerky. I figure next time I am stuck on a lonely road, this will be my practice time.

Towards the end of day, an instructor is fitted with GoPro to lap all of us for our 10 seconds of fame. But one fact that comes to light, he hits the same

spot on each and every lap. It’s somewhat achievable for a novice to get a corner or two really good, less likely to get an entire lap and pretty much improbable that we can string together a few laps. We’ve yet to learn the art and conservation of energy.

I end Day 2 on a really high note. On the closing session, I realize how far I have come in such a very short time. At the same time, there is a lost innocence. Innocence that knows that the adrenaline junkie in me will never succumb to a silly Disneyland roller coaster ride again. This is the real deal.

Just at the clock strikes 1700, the track is cold and the gate slams shut. A parade of Toyota Supras is entering the pits for tomorrow’s prepping, presumably they are the reason there are no rooms at The Lodge for tonight. I initially decide to go 2 hours and find a hotel, but really who wants to overnight when home is just another 1.5 hours away?

Although Reggie looks at his watch and then laments he’ll be 57 next year, there are rumors that he is sun setting his career. My guess is that he’s probably completed a wee bit more than 57 trips around the sun. While his brain thinks it time to get off the range, his passion for the sport can’t leave the smell of avgas and revving motors. Anyhow, 90% of his clientele of this class are repeat offenders. I guess I will be in that boat too, if he comes east again. Who knows, by the time CLASS comes back to VIR, I might find myself on an 800R or maybe a new 310R.

Class will make its return and final visit to viR october 16 + 17, 2017. spaces are almost sold out, so BooK noW • www.Classrides.com • (805) 933-9936 • info@classrides.com

Page 50

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

BOOK REVIEW

• JOURNEY TO THE END OF THE WORLD • ALFONSE PALAIMA & COLIN EVANS

Everyone has a bucket list. And on almost any motorcycle rider’s list is some kind of remote destination —a dream journey. For many, that destination is the so-called “end of the world,’ in Ushuaia, Argentina. The 15 seasoned adventure motorcyclists in this book made the dream a reality as they negotiated an uncharted route to the southernmost tip of South America, on a journey dubbed Expedition 65.

Truth on this fantastic journey was not lost on us here at Backroads Central, as we were following posts from Jim Hyde and photographer Alfonse Palaima – Fonzie to his friends (and who is not a friend of Fonzie?) since before the trip began.

When we heard there was a book coming we were equally excited. But when the book arrived we were totally blown away. Huge in everyway it is almost ADV-rider porn!

Masterfully edited by Andrew Cherney and published by Octane Press - Journey to the End of the World, with Evans’ easy writing style is, mostly, a pleasure to read and made even better by Palaima’s brilliant lensmanship.

Okay, Evans, who kept a blog during this entire journey, is an ex-pat Brit living in Oregon and, occasionally, seems to be unable to stop himself from sporadically tossing needless barbs at the USA; but that aside the book is so brilliant that I took a deep breath at these and turned the page.

From the start in Cartagena, Colombia to the finish in Ushuaia, Argentina I found it fast paced, interesting and able to paint a wonderful story as they head south.

Within the 65 degrees of latitude traveled between the top of South America and its bottom, the epic voyage blazed an 11,000 mile path through many of the continent’s most iconic locations, from the world’s most dangerous road to the globe’s largest salt flat, and from the jungle to the desert. The experiences spanned the range of moto and human experience and everything in between.

Dig out the bucket list and get ready to take notes; this book will take you there.

The book can be yours for $45.00 from Octane Press (octanepress.com) and will make an excellent holiday or birthday gift for that rider who would not drop almost half a hundred for themselves. ~ Brian Rathjen

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

PRODUCT REVIEW

Page 51

• TOUR MASTER TRINITY BOOTS FOR WOMEN

Every few years I begin my search for replacement boots. I treat my riding gear well, trying not to abuse or damage, but things always happen. I’ve put some of my gear through the abrasion test and it has come through with flying colors. My last pair of boots took a pretty good hit on the toe, making them no longer waterproof. Despite my best patch attempts, they were bound for the fair weather pile and this year’s search was on.

At the top of the list was Tour Master’s Trinity Boots. I had been using Tour Master’s Solution 2.0 WP and Solution WP Air for the past couple of years and had great success with both comfort and dryness. What I liked about the Trinity boots was the other word in their description – Touring.

I put some miles on my bike, as well as my gear, every year and I need longevity and hardiness in every piece. ‘Touring’ implies just that.

Knowing that Tour Master’s sizing is true, I placed my order for a size 6.5 (38 European) and a short while later the Big Brown Truck came a callin’ with my booties. Donning a pair of riding socks, I slipped on left, then right, finding them a tad tight but knowing that with a little use that would change. The Trinity are constructed of abrasion-resistant microfiber PU leather on the upper portion with front and rear 1200 denier polyester accordion stretch panel insets. There’s a TPR shifter guard to prevent overuse on the toe and 3M Scotchlite reflective heel insert and outside piping for added visibility.

To beef up the suspension, Tour Master has added thermoplastic molded shin plates, EVA toe and heel cups and anatomically designed high-density insoles. Side-entry YKK zippers, with hook and loop closures, allow for ease of insert and the full-length waterproof gaiters keep the moisture out. I did find that the zippers where a tad stiff around my ankles, but nothing a little grease couldn’t help.

Speaking of keeping moisture out, the Outdry waterproof and breathable membrane does just that, and the air mesh liner allows for good ventilation during the dog days of summer. I have found that boots claiming to be waterproof are also stifling as far as keeping the heat on your feet, making for some serious stinkiness at the end of the day. In my few months of use, I have not had to put them outside the door at the end of the day. Though I haven’t been caught in any torrential downpours, I did some riding through a flooded area in Maryland recently, getting a good submersion of my feet, and came out the other side dry as the arid desert.

When leaving the bike for a little walkabout, the Trinity boots are quite comfortable. I don’t find the need to pack an additional pair of sneakers for a few nights away, as these boots can do double-duty in the evening.

Available in women’s sizes 6.5-10and having an MSRP of $179.99, you can find your Trinity boots wherever Tour Master products are sold or find out more at www.tourmaster.com. ~ Shira Kamil

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Page 52

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

BACKROADS FALL FIESTA UPDATE AND INFORMATION Our weekend of fun begins at the Inn on the Lake in Canandaigua, NY on Thursday night, Sept. 21. We’d give you a suggested ride up there, but we’re sure you kids can make it up to the Finger Lakes on your own. It will be great to see everybody!

From Canandaigua we will scoot north towards the St. Lawrence Seaway and Alexandria Bay. The free day there will have a few ride options – one being the Antique Wooden Boat Museum in Clayton and the other a visit to the famed artist Frederic Remington’s Museum.

Both rides will come back early - and we hope that everybody will join us for a cruise excursion through the 1,000 Islands - well worth it!

We will then head east through the Adirondack forest towards Lake George and our final night at Bolton’s Landing.

This is going to be so much fun and we are looking forward to seeing all of you at the Fall Fiesta.

HOUSEKEEPING If you plan on eating at the Bonnie Castle either or both nights, the hotel requested that you make reservations so they may know when and how many will be joining them for dinner. You can see the restaurants (3) and menus here: bonniecastle.com/dine/ • 800.955.4511 for reservations Should you like to join in for dinner Sunday night at Bolton’s Landing, we’ll be heading to Pumpernickel’s Restaurant (www.pumpernickels.com), walking distance from Melody Manor, at 7pm. This is not a group dinner – you’ll order off the menu – just the closest restaurant available. Again, if you would like to join us, PLEASE email or call so we can give them a head count by SEPTEMBER 10. 973-948-4176 • editor@backroadsusa.com

ATTRACTION INFORMATION uncle sam Boat Tours 47 James st, alexandria Bay, nY • 315-482-2611 http://usboattours.com/1000islands 2 nation Boat Tour Sat, Sept. 23: Boat leaves at 3pm. Cost: $23/pp. 2 ¼ hour international tour will take you on a 22 mile round-trip through American and Canadian waters – what is considered the ‘heart’ of the 1000 Islands. This trip will give you the best overall view of this truly unique geographical area shared by two nations.

At the end of the cruise (When the castle is in operation; May 6 – October 15) there is the option to disembark at Heart Island to enjoy a self-guided tour of Boldt Castle at an additional admission fee. Once you have completed your self-guided tour of Boldt Castle the Uncle Sam’s boat shuttle will return you to Alexandria Bay. antique Boat Museum 750 Mary st, Clayton, nY http://www.abm.org/ hours: 9am-5pm • admission: $12-$17 1.5 hours are suggested for a full visit. An additional ½ hour tour of the La Duchesse is available – sign-up is necessary upon arrival. The Antique Boat Museum is the premier freshwater nautical museum in North America. Located in the 1000 Islands on the St. Lawrence River, the ABM’s galleries overflow with over 300 unique and beautifully-preserved boats and thousands of recreational boating artifacts. Our 4.5-acre campus comes alive with speed boat rides, boat shows, educational programs for all ages, special events and more.

Frederic Remington art Museum 303 Washington st, ogdensburg, nY www.fredericremington.org Hours: Saturday 10am-5pm • Adm: $9 adult/Senior + AAA Members $8 Frederic Remington (1861-1909) is best known for his art depicting the cowboys, soldiers and Native Americans of the Old West. A native of Canton, New York, Remington found inspiration in these subjects from an early age.

The collection includes illustrations, paintings and bronzes.

Gouverneur Musem 30 Church st, Gouverneur, nY www.gouverneurmuseum.org saturday 1-3pm • Free admission The Gouverneur Museum building was formerly the Presbyterian Manse.

The home was originally given to the church by the Dean family. The Museum has artifacts on three floors and a building in the. Thanks to the gen-

erosity of area residents, the museum houses thousands of items, many are quite unique, like a two-headed cow.

There are many choices for lunch in Clayton. Drive around and see what fits your appetite. Two on the water are: Channelside • 506 Riverside drive • open @ 11:30am Bella’s • 602 Riverside drive • open @ noon for lunch The scoop for ice cream • 423 Riverside drive Grab a cone and sit by the water in the park Should you like to explore, take a ride to Wellesley Island, across I-81, for a visit to DeWolf Point State Park. You’ll find more ice cream at Guzzle on E Rainbow St. Relax, enjoy the view, and head back to Alexandria Bay for a less than three hour cruise.

ROUTING INFORMATION We’ll be posting route information on our website, with links from our Facebook page as well. Keeping it pretty simple with a suggested route from Sussex, NJ to the Inn on the Lake in Canandaigua (next page), a route from the Inn to Bonnie Castle, Alexandria Bay, NY and one from there to Melody Manor, Bolton Landing, NY. There will be two rides from Bonnie Castle the riding is not technical but there is a lot to see - and we highly recommend doing the boat trip in the afternoon.

If you have any question feel free to drop us a line or give a call. We’ll see you all in Canandaigua - have a safe ride!

973-948-4176 • editor@backroadsusa.com

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 53

INN ON THE LAKE • APPROX. 270 MILES 770 S MAIN ST, CANANDAIGUA, NY • 585-394-7800 Start: Breakfast at Elias Cole Restaurant Rte. 23 north of Sussex Rte. 23 north through High Point Park Left on US 6 through Port Jervis Follow signs to Rte. 97 Hawks Nest Left over Bridge (Carriage House) Straight at SR 434 Right at Lackawaxen Rd. Right at SR 590 Right at Masthope Plank Rd. Right at Welcome Lake Rd. Right at Peggy Runway Rd. Bear left at Rte. 652 Right at Plank and left at T Plank Rd. Right at Milanville Rd. Left at Calkins Rd. Right at High Bridge Rd. Left at Stone Arch Rd. Straight at Brook Rd / Griffith Rd. Left at Fallsdale Rd. Right at Valley Ridge Rd. Right at Dillmuth Rd. Right at Oregon Pike Left on SR 371 Left at SR 247 Right at SR 371

Right at Rte. 171 Cross Susquehanna River at Rte. 92 Right at Rte. 92 – Becomes Rte. 79 in NYS Left at Rte.7 Right at Rte. 79 Cross Chenango River left to Rte. 212 Right at Rte. 79 Left at Main St. over Tioughnioga River Right at US 11 bear left at Rte. 79 Follow Rte. 79 all the way to Watkins Glen.

SR 414 into SR 409 in town Bear right CR 28 Bear left CR 23 Bear right at Birdseye-Waneta Rd. Left at CR 87 Straight to Rte. 54 Right at Rte. 54A (in Hammondsport along Keuka Lake) Left at Italy Hill Rd. Left at Italy Friend Rd. Right at Italy Turnpike Bear left to Italy Valley Rd. Right at Rte. 53 Right at Rte. 21 Right at West Lake Rd. Right at Parrish St. Right South Main to inn at the Lake

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Page 54

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival Medic Kits Your first defense against bad things getting worse Things get old. They get misplaced, not replaced and generally – if something is not thought about or used on a continual basis they tend to atrophy.

Today I’d like to talk about medic kits.

In truth, we hope you have one and carry one on your bike, but we sincerely hope you never have to use it. Yet, we all know that things happen and the need to check your Medic Kit every few months is important.

A few rides back we were coming out of the Walpack Valley, along the tight and wooded Struble Road, when we came around a turn and saw a motorcycle sideways on the pavement and the rider holding up his hands for us to stop.

He was okay, the rider and the bike were not the issue – but the Subaru sideways down the ditch was.

Two men had gotten out of the car and one was bleeding from a wound to the ear and scalp.

They were both walking around, trying to joke, but obviously in light shock.

We 911ed a call to the State Police and went to see what else we could do to help.

Shira had a small collection of sundries – but not any real Medic Kit – still her “wipes” (we think they were for removing bugs) helped clean the blood off and we could see it wasn’t Monty Python sort of bleeding and that “It was just a scratch.”

My old kit was full of dried out and ancient supplies.

How did they crash? They both readily admitted they we looking at a phone and a GPS, as they were lost, and the road went that way and they did not.

Glad they did not hit the other rider who watched them drive blissfully off the road and down the shoulder into the woods. You think a Subaru would be able to drive out of this. But, that is another story.

Police and tow truck on the way we left thinking they were going to tell the cops what really happened and not the standard excuse that Big Red Eye ran across the road and caused the crash.

We were not home 10 minutes before both Shira and I both, separately, were looking up replacement Medic Kits for Motorcyclists as it was obvious we were sorely unprepared for

O TRIP T T S A L REG’S

VIR •

MISS DON’T

I T!

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2017

Page 55

even this light incident.

What if it were worse?

When things go wrong they go wrong fast, so it is good to have something that can help.

Today we all have cell phones and service is great in the US and just getting better and makes calling for help that much easier.

But, having a current and well-stocked Medic Kits is important.

We would like to highlight just two that we came across, both of which are now at home in the saddlebags of our bikes.

These kits carry a number of bandages, wipes, ointments and light medications (pain, bug and travel stuff).

ADVENTURE MEDICAL KITS - WATERTIGHT MED KIT .7 The first is from Adventure Medical Kits - Watertight Med Kit .7 - and was sourced from Aerostich.

This bright yellow and well-stocked kit comes in a waterproof and see-through interior DryFlex bag, keeps items dry and organized, with an outer sil-nylon bag lending extra protection and additional storage. Multiple bandages, wraps, wipes, ointments and tweezers can be found inside. This hand-size kit is compact and affordable enough to bring on every ride. ($24 – www.aerostich.com)

REI BACKPACKER MULTIDAY FIRST AID KIT On a higher scale, Shira bought the REI Backpacker Multiday First Aid Kit ($36 www.rei.com).

This is a most excellent kit as it opens flat and is well marked as to what is what. All contents are packed together in a zippered nylon case; clearly marked fold-out compartments let you easily find the items you need. It has reflective trim making the kit easier to locate quickly inside a pack or on the road.

It also has a first-aid manual for reference at the scene. It helps to know what to do with what you got, right?

Easily laid out is a wide assortment of adhesive bandages, including 1 in. strips, 0.75 in. strips, knuckle bandages, fingertip bandages and butterfly closures. For larger wounds, the kit also includes an assortment of gauze pads, a roll of gauze, larger wound pads, sponges and a roll of medical tape and elastic bandage.

Prep and care for injuries with antiseptic towelettes, triple-antibiotic ointment, iodine wipes, antimicrobial wipes, sting-relief wipes, burn cream and hydrocortisone cream. Medications include antacid tablets, ibuprofen tablets, acetaminophen tablets and allergy-relief tablets; kit also has a pill vial to store your own meds.

Equipment includes safety pins, latex-free medical gloves, bandage scissors, splinter forceps and a resealable waste bag.

It is fairly complete for less than major injuries and the way it is put together makes it a most excellent kit.

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Page 56

SEPTEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NyC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894 Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The Ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NyC Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com Every Saturday thru October • Bergen County Harley Davidson Saddle Up Saturday.

9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn! No shorts or sneakers. BCHD, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com Thru October 8 • AACA Museum: Garage Finds - Unrestored Treasures that Survived Time • Hershey, PA • AACAMuseum.org • 717-566-7100 Thru October 29 • AACA Museum: Dream Machines - Lory Lockwood Art Display • Hershey, PA • AACAMuseum.org • 717-566-7100

SEPTEMBER 2017 3 • Dawn Patrol MC Labor Day Ride - Lime Dot and Route Sheets. Sign in: Bradley Gardens Firehouse, 24 Old york Rd, Bridgewater, NJ 9am-Noon with coffee & donuts.

End: Dawn Patrol MC Clubhouse, 106 Robert St, Bridgewater, NJ with food, beverages, live music, vendors and more. Info: 908-722-4357 • dawnpatrolmc.com 8-10 • BMW MC Owners of Vermont 35th Annual Green Mountain Rally. Attendance limited to 250. Plenty of camping space, with limited cabin space available. BMW riders and guests of all brands are invited to join us for another legendary rally at ou rCamp Thorpe location, located in Goshen, VT off the Brandon Gap Road/Rte. 73 inthe heart of the Green Mountains. bmwmov.wildapricot.org 10 • Larz Anderson Classic European Motorcycle Day • 10am-2pm. Bike Show, Awards, Food, Fun. 15 Newton St, Brookline, MA • 617-522-6547 • larzanderson.org 10 • Motorcyclepedia Museum Swap Meet + Warehouse Sale • 10am-3pm. Free vendor space - ONLy motorcycle parts + accessories. $10 admission both sites: Museum @ 250 Lake St • Ted’s Cycle Shack @ 21 Liberty St - Newburgh, Ny • motorcyclepediamuseum.org • 845-569-9065 • Find Us on Facebook 14 • Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports Bike Night • 6-9pm • Music, food truck, bike of the night contest • 1221 Route 22 E, Lebanon, NJ • 908-236-9000 • rollinfast.com

What’s Happening 23 • Bob’s BMW Fall Open House & BMW K1600 Bagger Launch Party. In addition to food, demo rides, storewide sales, vendors and prizes, the all-new 2018 BMW K1600 Bagger will be unveiled. Sit on it, ask questions, and if you arrive early enough you might even be one of the lucky few that takes it for a test ride. Visit bobsbmw.com for complete event details • 10720 Guilford Ave, Jessup, MD • 888-269-2627 23 • Forever Friends Motorcycle Awareness Charity Bike Run Event. For full information please see ad below

21-25 • BACKROADS FALL FIESTA - NY STATE OF MIND TOUR. full details @ backroadsusa.com/rallies.html.

30-Oct. 1 • Max BMW’s Festival @ Hunter Mountain. In addition to Hunter Mountain’s Oktoberfest, MAX BMW will host stunt shows by ‘Teach’ McNeil, guided dual sport tours, charlift rides, and a Big Bike Enduro Challenge. Camping & other lodging available. Full details: MaxBMW.com • facebook.com/maxbmwmotorycles.com

OCTOBER 2017 12 • Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports Bike Night • 6-9pm • Music, food truck, bike of the night contest • 1221 Route 22 E, Lebanon, NJ • 908-236-9000 • rollinfast.com 15 • 29th Annual Harvey C. Irons Make-A-Wish Ride hosted by Blue Knights NJIX. For full details please see ad below • bknjix.org

14-19 • BACKROADS CLASS Rally. Ride to and from VIR with a small group. Details: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html 15 • Ramapo MC Club Fall Foliage Tour to benefit the Valerie Fund for childhood cancer research. Guided or self-guided tour along Hudson Valley’s autumn foliage roads. Sign in: Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke, Sloatsburg, Ny @ 9am. Details: Kent Sullwold (845) 304-3454 • kms.elec.engr@gmail.com • www.ramapomc.org

NOVEMBER 2017 18 • 5th USMC Toys for Tots ride by the Tier Rats Law Enforcement MC. Sign in: Miller’s Ale House-Deer Park, Ny @ 8:30/KSU 11am sharp; Endsite: Miller’s Ale House, Levittown, Ny. $15/pp with unwrapped toy; $20/pp w/out toy • www.tierratsmc.co

DECEMBER 2017 1-3 • Progressive International Motorcycle Shows - Javits Center, NyC

MARCH 2018 11-20 • BACKROADS OF ECUADOR TOUR. Join a VERY small group of Backroads’ readers for an amazing tour with Court and Sylvain (and Salina the Wonder Dog) of Ecuador Freedom Bike Rentals. See page ?? or visit their website for full details, pricing and availability • www.FreedomBikeRental.com

WE ARE OPEN MONDAYS 9AM TO 6PM