inside asia Discover the Cultures of the Coast ISSUE #3 BACKYARD TRAVEL
GET BENEATH THE SURFACE OF ASIA Idyllic Thai Islands Thailand’s most secluded hideaways
Untouched Paradise
Mergui Archipelago - Myanmar’s last frontier
Phuket on show
The ‘Pearl of the Andaman’ shows its cultural side
Okinawa Dreaming
This sublime prefecture has some of Asia’s best beaches
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED Welcome to the third edition of Inside Asia! This month, our travels take us to far-flung corners of the region, with expeditions traversing the coastlines and cultures of Thailand, Japan and Myanmar. Each issue we bring topics and destinations to our readers that we hope convey Backyard Travel’s unique approach to exploring Asia, and give you the inspiration you need to get off the beaten track (or the couch) and into some undiscovered territory.
Whether it’s a little-known aspect of a big destination, a guide to someplace you didn’t know existed or a candid photographic account of a tropical paradise, Inside Asia hopes to ignite your imagination and inspire your inner adventurer.
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OKINAWA FIVE-O The beachiest prefecture in all of Japan.
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VW BALI See Bali by a quirky VW amphibious jeep.
THAILAND HIDEAWAYS Secret island outposts you won’t want to leave.
PARADISE FOUND The rich, raw beauty of Myanmar’s Mergui.
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borneo Wonderfully wild - bold, brilliant Borneo.
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Local Favorites
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PHUKET’S CULTURAL SIDE
Our Travel Specialists share insider picks of their backyards.
Heritage houses, art enclaves and curious corners uncovered.
Maeve Nolan General Manager - Backyard Travel
Ideas: Maeve Nolan & the Backyard Travel Team
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Okinawa Dreaming
Japan doesn’t immediately spring to mind when you’re searching for a beach destination in Asia. But the Okinawa Prefecture offers up some of the most sensational coastline in the region.
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ore famous for its big urban centers, such as Kyoto and Tokyo, Japan is often overlooked as an Asian beach destination. However, the unique culture and complex history of the Ryukyu Islands at the southernmost tip of Japan, make Okinawa a rewarding beach destination for more than just its gorgeous shoreline. Renowned as a surfer’s and diver’s paradise, Okinawa is made up of a chain of islands that stretches out over 1,000 kilometers. One thing you notice immediately is that the cuisine of the region is unique. Okinawan - or Ryukyuan - food differs from that of other prefectures in that it features more meat, spices and potatoes. ‘Okinawa tacos’ (or Takoraisu to locals), for instance, is an original dish influenced by the American marines based on the islands. A delicious fusion of East and West, and a must-try. Okinawa is also one of the most culturally mixed areas of Japan, and, like many islands throughout history, has a complicated line of ownership. Not only was the island prefecture once an independent country, it has been controlled by both the US and China at various points in history. Now firmly under the sovereignty of the Japanese Emperor, the islands belong to Japan, though original Ryukyu cultural influences remain predominant and distinct.
A particular Backyard favorite spot is the laid-back island of Ishigaki. Situated nearer to Taipei than to Tokyo, Ishigaki boasts some of East Asia’s most stunning corals and snorkeling sites ideal for any level of swimmer. You’ll even find rare blue coral here. If you’re inclined to just relax and unwind, the island’s beautiful sandy beaches won’t disappoint, while the island’s rich array of decadent restaurants and sublime eateries are sure to tempt you from your sunbed in due time. If you’re feeling adventurous, you could trek through Ishigaki’s lush interior, hire a car to explore the island, or take a boat trip to one of the smaller surrounding islets, such as Taketomi Island. Only a 10-minute boat ride from here you’ll find a perfectly preserved Ryukyu village – home to just 300 people. Iriomote Island is also close, harboring one of Japan’s last remnants of true wilderness. One thing you must as the locals about is karate. Okinawa is the birthplace of the martial art, which began as a dance before transforming into a highly effective system of self-defense.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DISCOVER THE OKINAWA ISLANDS, OR ANY OTHER IDYLLIC JAPANEASE DESTINATIONS, GET IN TOUCH WITH ONE OF OUR EXPERT JAPAN TRAVEL SPECIALISTS HERE.
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VW BALI
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Exploration takes on a whole new meaning when you’re in an amphibious jeep. For this tour, we pick you up in our glorious VW convertible jeep and set off on the island’s smaller roads and trails to take you to sights you wouldn’t normally visit on a Bali tour. Over three days, you’ll see ancient sites, cruise past serene rice paddies, walk into volcanoes and visit remote villages, enjoying plenty of great food and company along the way. Your first day begins with the 1000-year-old rock carvings of Yeh Pulu, a beautifully reverential site, and an apt place to launch into Balinese culture. Gunung Kawi is next - a complex of shrines and pavilions carved into the hillside to honor King Anak Wungsu and his wives. Mt Batur is a highlight of the day – the most active volcano in Bali. You’ll descend to the lava fields in your jeep and learn about the volcanic activity going on right under your feet as your guide walks you along the blackened lava. Drive back to the crater rim and enjoy lunch with an unforgettable view overlooking the caldera. After lunch, you’ll move onward to the Holy Springs of Sebatu, where locals bathe to purify themselves.
See a new side of the Island of the Gods, with a three-day VW amphibious jeep adventure. High-adrenalin activities and visits to villages and organic farm reveal Bali’s alternate personality.
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Next up is Pura Batur and the temple of Dewi Danu, the Goddess of the Lakes. This is Bali’s second-most important temple and sees dozens of devotees from around the island every day. Moving downhill now, wending through mountains and passing through coffee plantations, you’ll eventually wind up on the north coast. The beautiful stone carvings of Pura Beji Temple are a must-see in this region. Day two begins spectacularly – with a trip to the beautiful Buddhist sanctuary of Brahma Aroma Vihara. After that, you’ll go to the hot springs of Banjar, where locals bathe amid warm, sulfuric vapors. You’ll explore another caldera today, taking in views of the breathtakingly stunning crater lakes of Buyan and Tamblingam, before stopping at one of Bali’s most iconic religious sites for lunch – the pagodas of the Ulun Danu Temple as you eat a gourmet lunch. To end the day, there’s a stop at Bedugul’s famous fresh market, where vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and
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pepper come together in a fragrant mélange. On Day Three, take a trip to the romantic Batukaru Temple, set in tranquil forests of teak, mahogany, fern and cinnamon. Visit a traditional Balinese compound, styled as an authentically traditional village. Here, you’ll be immersed in traditional Balinese life as you get to know a local family and learn about their culture and their day-to-day. Continue today to the 18th-century Taman Ayun; one of the most beautiful temples in Bali, before ending the tour at Tanah Lot, the stunning temples built on volcanic rock in the sea.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO EXPLORE BALI OR ANY OTHER OF INDONESIA’S 17,000 ISLANDS CONTACT ONE OF OUR BALI BASED EXPERT TRAVEL SPECIALISTS WHO CAN TAILOR YOUR OWN ADVENTUREOUS HOLIDAY.
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Thailand’s Island Gems
When you’re looking for an idyllic tropical island escape, Thailand can be overwhelming with choice. Most of its thousands of islands are blessed with pristine beaches, cerulean waters, calm bays and colorful reefs, with even the country’s most famous - Phuket and Samui – offering up a few “undiscovered” paradise beaches. For a true escape, the Kingdom’s vast marine borders contain a handful of lesser-known spots that artfully walk the line between untouched and touristic; accessible, but well off any major transport routes. Here’s our pick of the crop, perfect for your next secluded beach holiday in Asia.
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Koh Yao Noi
Koh Phayam
or a truly relaxing break, far from the beat of the party drum, Koh Yao Noi delivers. Surrounded by the spectacularly blue waters of Phang Nga Bay, Yao Noi is only a 30-minute speedboat ride from Phuket or Krabi. With untouched tropical jungle, calm, shallow bays and jagged limestone cliffs jutting out of the water, this is one of the country’s most classically Thai beach retreats. The local community is made up of mainly Muslim families, which keeps the vibe here nice and sedate, not to mention environmentally low-impact. A popular spot for yoga, and with a healthy choice of restaurants, Koh Yao Noi could be that idyllic Thai Island you’ve been searching for.
nother small island, Koh Phayam is located in the Andaman, close to the Myanmar border. Perhaps its remoteness from Ranong coastline kept it from falling into any of the pitfalls of popularity, even though it’s only a 45-minute speedboat journey from the pier. The journey is a fantastic cruise through a calm archipelago of countless islands and islets, mostly uninhabited. Koh Phayam itself has long, wide, windswept beaches, with cashew plantations and lush vegetation covering its interior. There is up
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A Koh Kood
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pint-sized island in the Chang Archipelago, Koh Kood is located off beautiful, lush Trat Province. Koh Chang is the largest in this chain of islands, and you can reach Koh Kood by ferry from its southern tip or charter a speedboat from the mainland. Koh Kood is notable for its postcard-perfect beaches, which are almost too beautiful to believe. The water is transparent – you can see the sand on the ocean floor – and unlike many Thai beaches, the sea bed isn’t covered with sharp rocks and corals. There’s no official transport on Koh Kood; you’re left to your own devices with a motor scooter or bicycle, free to explore tracks and trails at your leisure. In the unlikely event you are tired or lost, a local will inadvertently drive past and offer you a lift or a songthaew transfer. Koh Kood shares the same weather as Koh Chang, that is: very rainy for most of the year. November to April are the driest months, but for a true bargain – and some beautifully moody storms, shoulder-season travel (from midOctober or May-June) is just as worthwhile.
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scale accommodation on Koh Phayam, but for the most part it’s cute beach bungalows and rustic-chic shacks. Koh Phayam’s sunsets are extraordinary. Buffalo Bay, known locally as Ao Kwai, is a top sunset spot, the sun marbling the ocean with oranges, purples and pinks as it dips below the horizon. With just one main village, a hippie bar or two and a handful of beach restaurants, serenity is easily found on Koh Phayam.
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Koh Jum
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espite its close proximity to Krabi, Koh Jum remains very much remains unspoiled. Laidback and perfect for that boutique rustic ambience, it boasts only three villages and rubber tree plantations run by local families. It offers up a handful of excellent accommodation options, and the friendliest locals you could imagine. Most of the bungalows and resorts in Koh Jum are on the west side, with views out to Koh Phi Phi. The sunsets here are nothing short of legendary and even in high season, the beaches are near-deserted. There’s marine life to discover if you’re snorkeling just offshore - and these calm, clear waters are the ideal setting for a families with younger kids. Koh Jum’s position just off the tourist trail make it excellent value for money, with chartered boat trips and fresh seafood meals far more affordable than in Koh Phi Phi or Phuket. Aside from exploring the vil-
Koh Kradan
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opular with honeymooners, this little island in the Trang Archipelago (in the Andaman Sea) is a thin sliver of land (gradaan is Thai for plank). Lying to the south-west of Koh Mook – another island you’ve probably never heard of – it’s a picture-perfect island with a postcard-stunning beach, clear, blue seas and spectacular views of limestone casts rising up from the sea. Koh Kradan is a top spot for snorkeling, thanks to the large reef right off shore on the southern part of the island. You can access it from the beach – no need to charter a boat. Wander the sandbanks at low-tide, find a hammock to park yourself in, and just enjoy an authentic castaway experience.
Exploring Thailand’s lesser-known pockets make for surprisingly rewarding travel. For more information on any of these untouched Thai Island paradises, get in contact with one of our Bangkok-based Thailand Travel Specialists. They’ll be happy to provide their own first-hand knowledge and expertise and help you chose the perfect island for your next Thailand beach holiday.
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Run to Paradise:
Myanmar Edition
You think you’ve been there, done that? You haven’t until you’ve seen Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago, a chain of more than 800 uninhabited islands dotting Myanmar’s Andaman coast. Harboring an astounding diversity of marine and terrestrial wildlife, it’s got the gorgeous blue waters and heavenly white-sand beaches we search for in an Earthly island paradise.
Located south, above Thailand’s Trang province, the Mergui Archipelago – sometimes referred to as the Myeik Archipelago – is made up of around 800 islands. This area is home to the ‘Moken’; ‘sea gypsies’ who spend the dry season at sea. Mergui only opened to tourism in 2006, so much of the area remains unmapped and completely undeveloped – perfect for the traveler who’s seen everything. The isolation of Mergui has helped preserve its organic beauty, and it’s happily maintained a richly bio-diverse profile, with rainforests and mangroves and marine and coastal ecosystems. A cruise is the only way to explore the Mergui Archipelago. There aren’t many options for accommodation in Mergui, and at any rate, a boat gives you more freedom to see more islands. A sailing tour through the Mergui Archipelago wends through these tropical waterways at a leisurely pace, sailing from one untouched island to the next, mooring in the best places to snorkel or expore a deserted beach. There are also local Moken communities to visit and monkey-filled forests to trek through. Lampi Island is a particular highlight. One of the largest islands in the Mergui, it’s famous for its dense virgin forest and clear waters.
The Andaman Sea is renowned for its beauty. With reef-fringed islands in bright blue waters, its coastlines are the stuff of legend: powder-fine sand, coconut trees, monsoon-wet tropical forests rustling in the coastal breeze. Much of this coastline has been developed for tourism – especially the portion that lies within Thailand. But, somewhat miraculously, there’s a part of the Andaman that’s still largely untouched: Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago.
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You can visit a Moken village and get acquainted with the nomadic sea-faring lifestyle, understanding the importance of the Moken’s role as guardians of the region. Pila Island is another must-see.
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Here, you can walk jungle trails, try tuna fishing or just sink into the serenity of the island’s uninhabited shores. Snorkel its coral reefs, and spot hornbills and giant lizards. The Mergui Archipelago’s 800-plus islands offer a vast amount of coastline. There are some islands, however, that stand out for their exceptionally beautiful stretches of sand, hidden coves, serene harbors and lush foliage. Zadetkyi Island is one such place, with its fantastic reefs and resident pods of dolphins. For snorkeling, the Mergui Archipelago is one of Asia’s best-kept secrets. Islands like Say Tan and Macleod have rich coral reefs with restricted access protecting them from tourist crowds. Hawksbill turtles and otters frolic in the waters here, while on shore pristine rainforests teem with wildlife. Muntjac deer, pythons, and cheeky dusky langurs and more are just some of the island’s inhabitants.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO EXPLORE THE UNTOUCHED ISLANDS OF THE MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO, CONTACT ONE OF OUR MYANMAR BASED EXPERT TRAVEL SPECIALISTS WHO CAN TAILOR A SAILING TRIP OF YOUR DREAMS.
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Bold, Brilliant
Borneo
Wonderfully wild, Borneo has harnessed its jungles, rainforests, rivers and rural frontiers to offer travelers a captivating array of experiences that marry stunning natural beauty with indigenous culture and – for those who want it – high-adrenalin kicks.
Borneo is huge – the third-largest island in the world. East Malaysia takes up the northern section of this vast blob of land, and its range of different topographies makes it impossible to neatly categorize. Suffice to say, it is home to thousands of species of plants and animals, of which its most famous resident - the orangutan – is just one. | 20 | borneo | BACKYARD travel
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If Borneo’s on your bucket-list, you should know that it’s more than just orangutan sanctuaries National Geographic-style scenery and jungle tribes. Its unique geography, made up of varying landscapes, from below sea level to the summit of Mount Kinabalu, defies the constrains of a quick summary. There are coral reefs, beautifully lush mangroves, ancient rainforests, peat swamps, alpine meadows, and quite unexpected things such as vast cave systems, home to millions of bats. There’s the protected parkland of Kinabalu and there’s the Kinabatangan River – the secondlargest river in Malaysia – your top location for white-water rafting (and spotting the endemic Borneo river shark!) Borneo has just as much to offer as a cultural destination as it does an eco-touring one. It’s made up of myriad little communities, with all their rural, urban and tribal cultures, coming together to form a truly multi-ethnic makeup. Getting in touch with Borneo’s human side is an essential part of travel through Borneo – homestays in particular can give you that hard-to-find local connection missing from much modern travel.
Kicking off in the quirky ‘Cat City’, Kuching, a Borneo cultural tour might begin with a wander through the colonial architecture, spice markets, mosques, temples and – of course – cat monuments. After that, you’ll stay in a jungle village, bedding down in a traditional Iban longhouse. Or your guide might take you to a bucolic rural township, where a local family will feed and house you for the night. If you’re keen to launch yourself headlong into Borneo’s wild side, you can get your adrenal gland working with a white-water rafting trip or some mountain biking. If you prefer cruising through the countryside at your own pace, you can cycle from village to village, stopping off wherever takes your fancy, whether that’s a secluded little cove, a limestone cave or a roadside fruit stall.
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Gokteik Viaduct, Shan State
Ultimately, its Borneo’s wildlife you probably want to see, given its rare and beguiling nature. So meet up with some orangutans and learn about their plight. Hop on a river cruise to spot proboscis monkeys. Walk the Hornbill Trail, and get up close with some rhinoceros hornbills, macaques and mouse deer. For snorkeling, Borneo’s pristine beaches offer fringing coral reefs that rival any in the world. After spending time in the jungle, you might want to pamper yourself with a few lazy days in a luxury resort, spending your time on the beach, wandering orchid gardens, or taking night-time tours to see fireflies in the mangroves.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DISCOVER BORNEO ON YOUR NEXT TRIP TO ASIA THEN CONTACT ONE OF EXPERT TRAVEL SPECIALISTS HERE
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Ngapali Beach, Myanmar - by Yangon based Travel Specialist Helen Located near Thandwe in Rakhine State, Ngapali is one of Myanmar’s best beaches. Happily, it’s also one of Asia’s least visited. I highly recommend visiting if you’re after a break in a peaceful location with wonderful Burmese hospitality Fringed by the cobalt blue waters of the Bay of Bengal, Ngapali is made up of a series of pristine bays interspersed with quaint fishing villages and towering palm trees. With only a handful of resorts and restaurants, Ngapali exudes a laid-back, unassuming charm, quite unlike the frenetic buzz that often characterizes the more famous beaches of Asia.
Local’S Favorites
The coastlines of Asia are as vast as they are varied, to the extent that choosing just one to visit can be a bewildering task. Luckily, our Travel Specialists know the region because it is literally their backyard, so we asked them for their top picks of the most beautiful Asian beach in their home country.
4,000 Islands, Laos - by Vientiane based Travel Specialist Hom As a landlocked country, Laos is presumed not to have any islands or beaches, but this is totally wrong! 4000 Islands in the south is a beautiful region, perhaps the most spectacular in the whole country. Here, the waters of the Mekong and their countless islets are inhabited by fishing villages, still blissfully undeveloped, with no cars and only limited electricity. Here you’ll also find some rather delightful beaches along the Mekong, including Rive Beach on Don Daeng Island, which expands up to 800 meters wide in the dry season There are lots of fun activities to enjoy here, like taking a trip on a local boat along the Mekong River at sunset – an unforgettable moment. It’s also a region where you may be able to spot the rare Irrawaddy dolphin. But the thing I love to do most is explore islands by bike or on foot. It’s so much fun to travel around and meet the local rice field farmers. There are also beautiful waterfalls to be found if you know where to look!
I suggest rising early at least once to watch fishermen hauling in their catch from the seas. Also, arrange a trip with your Backyard Travel guide to visit the beautiful bay of Maung Shwe Lay, where you can enjoy your own private beach for the day.
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Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam - by Saigon-based Travel Specialist Thu Lan The tropical island of Phu Quoc is the ideal escape. It’s one of the least developed islands in Asia, located in the Gulf of Thailand, just a short flight from Saigon, and is blessed with stunning white-sand beaches, virgin forests and a marine national park. Its outlying reefs and islands can easily be explored, making this a paradise for divers and snorkelers. This relatively ‘undiscovered’ island is also famous for its superb seafood and fish sauce. US-based National Geographic Traveler magazine awarded Phu Quoc Island third place in its list of recommended destinations for Best Winter Trips 2014.
Komodo Island, Indonesia – by Bali based Travel Specialist Andhika I’d be lying if I said I had visited most of the 17,000 or more islands in my home country, but of the ones I have visited I can’t think of a more picturesque one than Komodo Island. Komodo is a sparsely populated island with just 2,000 inhabitants, and my favorite beach there has to be ‘Pink Beach’. The beach is named because of its pink hue, the result of red coral fragments mixing with the white sand. Off the beach there is amazing snorkeling to enjoy and inland you can trek through the uninhabited Komodo National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, you can see a huge a variety of wildlife only
IF YOU FANCY A DREAM BREAK IN ANY OF THESE DESTINATIONS RECOMMEND BY OUR EXPERT TRAVEL SPECIALISTS THEN CONTACT ONE OF OUR ASIA BASED TEAM HERE
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Phuket’s beaches need no introduction; neither does the island’s vibrant entertainment scene. What many travelers often aren’t aware of is that the ‘Pearl of the Andaman’ is also a cool cultural enclave, where Chinese-Malay heritage meets contemporary creativity, traditional craftsmanship and a thriving, multi-textured arts scene. With paradise beaches at every turn and the Andaman Sea sparkling just offshore, you could be forgiven for not immediately heading inland when you’re in Phuket. When you do, however, you’re rewarded with the island’s most historic – and colorful – history, illustrated through its architecture. Within this cultural nook are artist galleries and eclectic museums, offering a glimpse of this sun-kissed island’s more cultured, bohemian side.
Charming
Phuket Town
Our four-day Insider’s Phuket tour uncovers this folky, arty, historic side to Phuket, getting you time with local artists in their studios and seeking out quaint little spots you’d never find on a conventional Phuket tour. You’ll start off with a historic amble through the centuries-old quarter of Phuket’s Old Town. A bustling local market downtown is your launch point, where you’ll see a rainbow of fresh exotic fruits on display – it’s your chance to enjoy some of the juiciest, healthiest snacks to fuel you on on your way. You’ll be guided through streets full of color and character, past Peranakan shop houses in ‘SinoPortuguese’ architectural style.
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Phuket’s former life as a tin-mining town beget a legacy of these stunning, beautifully refurbished and restored mansions,
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and many now function as cafes, boutiques, restaurants and museums. You’ll also delve into Phuket’s art scene, meeting up with local contemporary talents. Our translator will help you articulate your questions about the various exhibitions and collections you encounter. The historic part of Phuket town is rife with retail galleries, antique shops and arts, crafts and curios boutiques. Here, you can pick up a one-of-a-kind souvenir as well as get some creative inspiration for the next part of your day: a workshop. A trained artist will guide you in creating your own work of art – a unique keepsake to remind you of your travels. Phuket’s oldest hotel, the historic Memory at On On Hotel, is your base for this insider tour. Located in the atmospheric heart of the city, this lovely old property was built in 1929. It gets its name from the Chinese expression ‘un un’, which translates to ‘happiness for all visitors’. Thoughtfully renovated in 2013, the hotel’s Sino-Portuguese design beguiles with heritage charm.
Wrap up the tour on an unlikely note – with an electric bike ride through the Old Town. Enjoy the wind whipping through your hair as you whiz past candy colored shop houses, grand old museums and the rambling Baan Silaprachan, a Sino-Portuguese house that’s home to the former Governor of Phuket. Another highlight of this short Phuket tour is Thavorn Museum, positioned inside the Thavorn Heritage Hotel. More than 50 years old, its grand lobby, marble floors and chandeliers pave the way for a collection of antique toys, antique typewriters and vintage photographs of Golden Era Thai movie stars. In between vintage suitcases, an old-school projector and faded posters you’ll see rare old photos of the Thai royal family.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DISCOVER PHUKET’S CULTURAL AND ARTISTIC SIDE THEN CONTACT ONE OF BANGKOK BASED TRAVEL SPECIALISTS HERE
IS OUR BACKYARD
The philosophy at Backyard Travel is to experience a country as the local people see it, as we see it. Let us guide you and light your own passion for exploration with our insider tours and unique trips that offer experiences that few are fortunate enough to witness. Want to explore this Asia? Step into our Backyard. Live chat: www.backyardtravel.com If we are online, we can chat
EMAIL: info@backyardtravel.com We will get back to you within 24 business hours
Vietnam: vietnam@backyardtravel.com Thailand: thailand@backyardtravel.com Laos: laos@backyardtravel.com Cambodia: cambodia@backyardtravel.com Indonesia: indonesia@backyardtravel.com Myanmar: myanmar@backyardtravel.com Japan: japan@backyardtravel.com China: china@backyardtravel.com Bhutan: bhutan@backyardtravel.com Broneo: borneo@backyardtravel.com
ISSUE # 3
BACKYARD TRAVEL
Ideas: Maeve Nolan & the Backyard Travel Team