Ideas: Maeve Nolan & the Backyard Travel Team – Copywriting: Christian Sutton, partners & friends – Graphic design & layout: Bussarin Grainok
Inside Asia FOOD HEAVEN
ิฟกกาดากMAY 2014 ISSUE # 1
TASTING THE
REGION Join us on an exploration of the culinary life of Asia; THE SWEET, THE SOUR AND THE SPICY
SPICY LESSONS
The secrets of delicious Thai cuisine. Learning to cook the tasty Thai way from market to mouth.
WOOD FIRED FOOD
Cooking on a wood fired stove and genuine Mekong Delta hospitality at our homestay in Vietnam.
TASTES OF LAOS
‘Insider’ dining tips from our Laos based travel specialist on S.E.Asia’s most relaxed Capital, Vientiane
PEEKING DUCK
Once just a dish for nobility, take a peek at China’s most celebrated dish; crispy Peking Duck.
BACKYARD TRAVEL
TALKING FOOD WELCOME TO THE FIRST OF MANY INSIDE ASIA MAGAZINES! OUR EXCITING FIRST ISSUE REVOLVES AROUND THE IMPORTANT MATTER OF EATING. From the freshness of Japanese gastronomy to the sizzling hot curries of Thailand and Indonesia, the spectrum of flavors throughout Asia pleasures, stimulates and often surprises. Asia is a diverse palate of Inspirational gastronomy and sampling regional cuisine is a special part of any authentic travel experience that we can’t recommend enough. I hope Our new e-Magazine inspires you to seek out such opportunities on your next trip to Asia!
Maeve Nolan General Manager - Backyard Travel
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DIGESTING LOCAL CULTURE
Eat, Learn, Love in delicious Yangon
PEEKING DUCK
Mini guide to preparing China’s favorite food
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A SPICY LESSON
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WOOD FIRED FOOD
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Learning to cook the tasty THAI way
Authentic Vietnam homestay
TUCKING INTO JAPAN A short Q&A session with our Japan specialist
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SOCIAL FOODIES
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TASTES OF LAOS
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Our favorite blog posts on the region’s most appetizing food Tips for a day of eating indulgence TOP 5 HANOI EATS
Where to go for the best local eats
Ideas: Maeve Nolan & the Backyard Travel Team – Copywriting: Christian Sutton, partners & friends – Graphic design & layout: Bussarin Grainok
A Spicy lesson Learning to Cook the Tasty Thai Way From Market to Mouth – The Secrets of Cooking delicious Thai Cuisine
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COOKING WITH ANGSANA | THAILAND | BACKYARD TRAVEL
BACKYARD TRAVEL | COOKING
WITH ANGSANA | THAILAND |
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“In Thailand it is very cheap and easy to get good food from outside the home, so even a lot of Thais don’t know how to cook!” laughs Angsana as she skillfully prepares some freshly grated coconut for her next students. “A lot of people also still live with their parents so often you would have your mother cooking for you every day. “
‘Nuea Yang Nam Tok’ , sliced grilled beef in a spicy dressing with shallots and herbs
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ne thing that surprises many firsttime travelers to Thailand is that the local food is scarcely recognizable. Translation to western tastes often filters out the nuances of what is in fact a sophisticated fusion of spices. One way to combat any cravings after discovering the delights of local cuisine is to take a food class while on holiday. Once the tricks and techniques have been mastered, an authentic version can then be easily replicated at home. Having begun teaching Thai cooking to locals in Florida, USA back in 2003, Khun Angsana is now back in Bangkok. Having learned the tricks, techniques and family recipes from her mother and grandmother she is now committed to passing on those skills – and secret recipes – to not only foreign travelers but also Thai locals.
Thai Chilies
“spicy, sweet, sour, and salty, this is the key” “In Thai cooking we use a lot of fresh herbs and vegetables. We don’t use much oil except for deep fried dishes. We can have a lot of different flavors in one dish: spicy, sweet, sour, and salty and this is the key, you have to learn how to balance all these flavors in the one dish. The hardest thing though can sometimes be getting the right ingredients. We usually don’t have a big fridge or freezer to keep the ingredients fresh (especially the meat) so instead we like to go to the market and look for the freshest ingredients we need for the day.”
Gaeng Keow Wan – Green Curry
Angsana is one of many in Bangkok that offer expert tutelage in the art of Thai cuisine but few have the one-to-one philosophy that she can provide. “My lessons are very much hands-on. Students have to do all the preparation and cooking themselves,” she says with a smile. “I instruct and show the basics but the students have to do all the hard work. That way they will remember better.”
“I instruct and show the basics but the students have to do all the hard work.”
The program is certainly one of a kind – not just thanks to Angsana’s outgoing, bubbly personality. Whereas many schools will often have a fixed schedule, where students have to learn whichever dishes are planned, Angsana’s cooking allows students to pick their own favorites to learn from a batch of Angsana’s family recipes.
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COOKING WITH ANGSANA | THAILAND |
BACKYARD TRAVEL
BACKYARD TRAVEL |
COOKING WITH ANGSANA | THAILAND |
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“I prefer teaching private classes as I can pay more attention to my students and they can select their own dishes to learn to cook. This gives them a chance to ask me about ingredients, preparation techniques, how people eat and live in Thailand and learn about general life and culture in the country.”
“If we are making curry we always make the curry paste from scratch” AND IT’S BECAUSE OF THIS PERSONAL ATTENTION THAT ANGSANA’S SCHOOL HAS BEEN SUCH A RESOUNDING SUCCESS. FROM START TO FINISH, THE EXPERIENCE IS AN INTIMATE ONE, AS THE EXPERIENCED CHEF LITERALLY TAKES STUDENTS BY THE HAND AND LEADS THE WAY - FROM THE SKYTRAIN TO THE KITCHEN VIA THE LOCAL MARKET. “I meet the students and take them to buy fresh ingredients at the local market near my house. I give them tips on how to look for the freshest meat and seafood. After that we head to my home, wash all the ingredients, and then I instruct them how to prepare the meal by themselves. If we are making curry we always make the curry paste from scratch. I get fresh grated coconut to make the coconut milk and use a pestle and mortar to crush all the ingredients by hand. After we have finished cooking, we all sit down together in my kitchen and sample the food”
At Backyard Travel we feature Angsana’s Thai Home Cooking school in many of our tailor-made tours and the unique private experience can also be added to any of our other tours that pass through Bangkok. Contact our Thailand Travel specialist to discuss this and other tours: thailand@backyardtravel.com
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THE WOOD FIRED STOVE | VIETNAM | BACKYARD TRAVEL
THE WOOD FIRED STOVE AT OUR
HOMESTAY IN VIETNAM Genuine homestay hospitality in the Mekong Delta A Guest article by Arva Ahmed of www.iliveinafryingpan.com
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hat first night of our homestay, mum and I pattered around our exceedingly shy hostess as she cooked up a feast in the kitchen. I watched in fascination as her daughter propped up more firewood under the boiling water, readying it to steam the red snapper that had been caught from the water lapping the Island. Here was a mother and daughter, in the 21st century, cooking with 100% local ingredients on a wood-fired stove. The mother was a picture of silent calm, multi-tasking with practiced ease between bowls of beef, macaroni, prawns, snapper, local vegetables and fruits that were likely sourced from her own backyard or the floating markets we had witnessed along the river that morning. It was like watching a slow meditative dance where moments of reflection were frequent through the process; from judging the thickness of the crimped cucumbers to evaluating the consistency of the rice flour and duck egg batter for our Banh Xeo demo.
THE WOOD FIRED STOVE | VIETNAM | BACKYARD TRAVEL
The two ladies of the family extracted a feast that was in fact the most memorable meal throughout my five day stay in Vietnam. They brought out dish after dish, blowing us away with their hospitality, and touching our palettes with flavors that lovingly combined to create an unforgettable, heartwarming meal. The ladies did not sit down for an instant, refusing to eat with us because they were busy curating our meal. In retrospect, I feel terribly gluttonous for tucking into the multicourse dinner while the ladies of the house were silently toiling away in the kitchen.
But at the time, all decorum was forgotten. If I slapped my hands from reaching out for fifths of those milky soft Banh Xeo pancakes with crunchy sprouts and pink baby prawns, it was less because of decorum and more because I knew what dishes were still waiting to make it to the table.
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I cannot recommend a homestay enough and the scene of the mother and daughter silently moving from stove to stove is one that I will always treasure when I think back to my Vietnam trip.
“you connect with a culture in a home, with a family, in a real-life setting that plays out every day� My restraint was rewarded with bowls of baby macaroni soup. The dish was bursting with pepper and the earthy stock of farm-fresh vegetables, creamy chunks of snapper coated in garlic and bedded with fleshy tomatoes, curly strips of beef with wholesome cauliflower florets and sweet potato chips with malt trickling down their wavy edges. Then of course we finished with the customary plate of tasty fruit.
This is a country whose wealth is its simplicity of local ingredients and of self-sustaining life, and you cannot appreciate the paradoxical reality of it all without peering over the shoulder of a Vietnamese mother. Arva traveled with us on a Mekong Delta homestay. If you fancy your own culinary close encounter then contact our Vietnam Travel Specialist: vietnam@backyardtravel.
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DIGESTING LOCAL CULTURE | MYANMAR | BACKYARD TRAVEL
Browsing dusty shelves for antiques and bric-a-brac on Dhamazedi Rd Hand picked gallery visits based on your preference, including famous ‘River’ and ‘Lokanat’ galleries Street markets and colorful vendors selling sweets and lesser known fruits
Digesting Local Culture in Yangon Delicious discoveries on a new tour
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ur ‘Eat, Learn, Love Yangon’ tour is one of the most delicious ways to discover the enigmatic former capital of Myanmar and offers the chance to investigate the artistic soul of Yangon, a city whose flourishing art scene has developed a unique voice. Armed with a hunger for food, and a thirst for art, music and literature, this gastronomic tour offers a chance to visit the top local eating spots as well as some fascinating cultural sites.
Highlights of the exploration include… The astounding architecture of the Kyauktawgyi and Shwedagon Pagodas. Numerous colonial-style buildings echoing the era of British rule. The ‘Golden Valley’ area and the new Treasure Gallery established by Min Wai Aung, a famous local artist renowned for his wonderful paintings of monks.
The knowledgeable and friendly Backyard Travel guide will provide some great local insight on this fabulous foodie tour, leading epicurean adventurers to lesser-known stalls and shops only locals know about, such as a quaint tea shop packed with Yangonians every hour of the day. The culmination of this tour for all the senses takes travelers to ‘Feel Myanmar’, a popular local restaurant where groups of locals gather to feast on delicious curries – a satisfying way to round-off an exploration of Myan-
For more ideas and itineraries including culinary experiences on the streets of Myanmar, contact our Myanmar travel consultant by email now: myanmar@ backyardtravel.com
BACKYARD TRAVEL | TUCKING
INTO JAPAN | JAPAN |
‘Tucking’ into japan
One of our resident Japan travel specialists, ‘Tuck’ is a lover of all things Japanese. In this special food edition of our new magazine, we gave her a quick Q&A on the what, where, why and how of Japanese cuisine. What is your favorite Japanese dish? Sushi. Or Tempura. It’s too difficult to choose, don’t make me! I love them equally. Where is the tastiest food experience you ever had in Japan? I still dream about one of the many Sushi bars I visited in Dotonbori, Osaka. Winter version of ‘Pocky’ by Glico is my favorite snack in Japan. Why do you love Japanese cuisine so passionately? Because it’s delicious, fresh and super healthy! Where can travelers learn the techniques required to prepare Japanese cuisine? There is an institute in Japan where they teach techniques for making Sushi and Soba. Backyard Travel can arrange the class on one of our tours – it’s a really great experience and makes for a nice treat for people back home after a holiday. Why does it take so long to become a qualified Fugu chef? A small part of the fugu fish is poisonous and the chef needs to remove that part so precisely or else people can actually die from eating it! So training is very important as people love the taste so much. How do you say “Thank you, that was delicious!” in Japanese? You should say “Arigato gozaimasu. Oishikattadesu!”
Whether you are an experienced gastronome or a culture vulture, Tuck is eager to hear your ideas of what sort of vacation you would love to take in Japan: japan@backyardtravel.com
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SOCIAL FOODIES | ONLINE |
SOCIAL FOODIES
A selection of our FAVORITE Social Postings
Best Soup Pho Sure? What Backyard Travel GM Maeve misses most about life in Hanoi.
Breakfast in Asia Pros and cons of the morning meal, Asian style.
Asian Cuisine Our ongoing Pin board of signature Asian dishes.
http://triptease.com/vietnam/hotels/bat-dan-street-hanoi-bestsoup-pho-sure-45954
http://www.afar.com/highlights/ breakfast-in-asia?
http://www.pinterest.com/backyardtravel/asian-cuisine/
I Live in a Frying Pan
Hungry Doctor
Vietnamese God
Austin Bush
BACKYARD TRAVEL | SOCIAL
FOODIES | ONLINE |
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backyard travel |
SOCIAL FOODIES | ONLINE |
FOODIE BLOGS
We like talking about food almost as much as we like eating it. Here’s a selection of our favorite food related blog posts.
The Raw and the Almost Cooked To cook or not to cook, the Japanese say ‘not’.
Chopsticks and Passion on Vietnam’s Sidewalks Saigon’s street specialties.
http://www.backyardtravel.com/ blog/musings/the-raw-and-thealmost-cooked/
http://www.backyardtravel.com/ blog/destinations/vietnam/chopsticks-and-passion-on-vietnamssidewalks/
Eat Yourself Healthy The Chinese philosophy of balanced eating.
Eating Asia: Disturbing? Left field food.
http://www.backyardtravel.com/ blog/destinations/china/eat-yourself-healthy/
http://www.backyardtravel.com/ blog/destinations/eating-asia-delicious-or-disturbing/
Delicious
or
Thailand’s Traffic Light Curries Red, yellow or green. Choose your spices. http://www.backyardtravel.com/ blog/destinations/thailand/thailands-traffic-light-curries/
Weird and Wonderful Fruits of Asia An introduction to the lesser known fruits of the region http://www.backyardtravel.com/ blog/musings/weird-and-wonderful-fruits-of-asia/
BACKYARD TRAVELL |
SOCIAL FOODIES | ONLINE |
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laos Vientiane We asked our Laos-based Travel Specialist Somnuek Souliphone for his IDEAS on where to enjoy a day of eating indulgence in the laid-back capital Vientiane.
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A DAY IN VIENTIANE | LAOS | BACKYARD TRAVEL
While on vacation in Asia we always suggest sampling the local food and trying to steer clear of dishes that might be more familiar back home. There are though certain tasty exceptions to the rule and French influenced Vientiane is home to some of the most splendid bakeries in Southeast Asia.
“Laos developed a passion for French food, resulting in some genuinely unique fusion experiences” Located on Nokeokumanne Rd, La Benneton is the epitome of modern food fusion in Laos, and for that reason it’s the perfect place to start your day of indulgence with a sweet Kouignamann pastry and latte made with locally grown coffee beans. From there we’d advise you take a morning ride around the city to visit the local markets in Vientiane’s suburbs led by one of our expert local Backyard Travel guides. During your ride you’ll have the chance to see how many of the local dishes are made from scratch, including deliciously fresh sticky rice as you immerse yourself into a lesser known side of this laid back city. In the late afternoon you’ll make your way back into the center of the sleepy city and head to ‘Lao Kitchen’ for a lazy lunch. This small eatery is tucked away down one of the smaller streets around the corner from the Lao National Museum, and is often overlooked by passers-by for its unassuming appearance. Fresh and delicious, many of the dishes you’ll sample offer echoes of Isaan food from Thailand; although many find this style of Laos food is not quite as spicy as their southern neighbors. My personal favorites here are the ‘Laab Xong Keuang’, a spicy salad made with chicken mince or duck, and the Luang Prabang stew. Be sure to try them!
To work up an appetite for dinner I’d suggest to continue the bike ride through the hazy afternoon streets to see some of the various city sites. Cycling up to ‘That Luang’, you’ll find the holiest site in Laos. That Luang was built in the 16th century by King Settethirat and looks especially majestic after the sun has set. After That Luang you should then visit the ‘Putaxay’ monument, Laos’ version of the Arc de Triomphe. It’s possible to stop and climb the steps to the top to see a sweeping view over the low-rise city skyline. Hopefully now hungry again, I’d encourage you to let your guide escort you to the riverside for dinner. This area is the most vibrant at night time as locals of all ages flock to the 3km stretch of riverside to shop, exercise or simply hang out with friends. There are several outdoor aerobics classes taking place after the sun has set juxtaposed by couples of all ages whiling away their evening by strolling down the promenade together. There is a great variety of food here and the atmosphere is wonderfully vibrant. Sit back and enjoy before heading to the night market where red-canopied stalls sell a range of goodies from trinkets to tasty sweets and ice creams.
Whether you are on a fixed schedule or playing it by ear, a day spent exploring Vientiane rewards with sights and sounds of one of the more authentic and undeveloped city destinations in Asia : laos@backyardtravel.com
BACKYARD TRAVELL |
A DAY IN VIENTIANE | LAOS |
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Maeve’s editorial History of Peking Duck | china | BACKYARD TRAVEL
Perhaps one of China’s most iconic dishes, Peking Duck is a special treat that can be found in Chinatowns all around the world. Peking is the former name of the China’s capital, which is now known as Beijing, but the name of the dish has remained unchanged. Peking Duck was originally only the food of Chinese nobility due to the dedication and special preparation the dish requires, and was said to be the favorite of the emperors of the ancient dynasties circa 1330 onwards. Legend has it that the secret recipe and preparation steps for the dish were so closely guarded that it had to be smuggled out of the palace.
Peking Duck
A ‘Peek’ at China’s Favorite Food
BACKYARD TRAVEL | Maeve’s
editorial History of Peking Duck | china |
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The bird is then roasted in a hung oven, which were developed in the imperial kitchens of the Qing Dynasty. These unique ovens are fired by special wood taken from only date, peach or pear trees, which give the roasted ducks a unique aroma and subtle, fruity flavor to the skin. Once roasted, the delicious duck then goes through the carving process and is served whole on a plate for diners to share. The now-crispy skin, regarded as one of the finest parts of the dish, is often dipped in sugar and garlic sauce before eaten, while the duck meat is traditionally eaten by hand, wrapped in small steamed pancakes with spring onion and sweet bean sauce. Now, China’s national dish is more affordable, but the techniques to prepare the dish remain largely unchanged and painstaking. Before the cooking begins, the prep work involved in creating the perfect Peking is extensive. For the ideal dish, the duck selected should be a young, white feathered bird around 2-2.5kg, which has been reared specifically for the process. After plucking, the duck is thoroughly cleaned before the unique step of pumping air into the bird to separate the skin from the fat. The duck is then hung to dry out until the roasting process. During the hanging, the duck is glazed with a layer of maltose syrup.
So there you have it - that’s the delicious secret of Peking Duck! It also explains why it’s almost impossible to make at home…it’s certainly one of those dishes that (unless you have all the required equipment and are a genius in the kitchen!) you can only eat in a restaurant. If you’re heading to China soon and would like to know the best places to try Peking Duck, then feel free to get in touch with our local Travel Specialists who are based in China: china@backyardtravel.com.
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Top 5 Hanoi Street Eats by Thu Lan | Vietnam | backyard travel
Top 5 Hanoi Street Eats
hanoi has some of Asia’s tastiest street food, but like every vast metropolis, the key is to know where to go! These insider tips, provided by our Hanoi based Travel Specialist Thu Lan offer some tasty ideas for the Vietnamese capital’s understated, yet delicious cuisine, and importantly where to go to snaffle some sublime street eats!
Savory Sticky Rice at Xoi Yen
Xoi Yen is a local street side stall that bustles at the seams daily, and is an exceptionally popular venue for lovers of this savory snack. The eatery can be found on Nguyen Huu Huan in the Hoan Kiem District. Here they fire out the orders of sublime sticky rice with a choice of toppings such as chicken, pork, green bean and deep fried shallots, and are open until the early hours.
Pho at Pho Bat Dan
A local restaurant, and often argued as Hanoi’s best pho establishment, Pho Bat Dan (at 49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem District) has been serving up Vietnam’s national dish for over 60 years. The rich broth, excellent cured beef and famous chili sauce gives Pho Bat Dan its welldeserved reputation. There is no table service and the ambiance is reminiscent of Hanoi circa 1985. A local experience for sure, but made more accommodating for foreigners with high tables and comfortable seating.
Ca at Cha Ca La Vong
The dish Cha Ca originated in Hanoi at the Doan family restaurant over a century ago. The street was later named Cha Ca Street after the dish, and to this day only one meal is served here: pan-fried fish with dill and spring onions, cooked at the table, served with vegetables. Ideally a lunch venue, the restaurant (at 107 Cha Ca St, Hoan Kiem District) is basic yet authentic, but high tables and comfortable seating are offered. The restaurant may have become a victim of its own success as portions have decreased over the years and service can be hit and miss, however the history and quirky décor help you overlook its shortcomings!
Bun Cha at Bun Cha Nem Cua Be Dac Kim
Again, a restaurant serving a small, specialized selection, Bun Cha Hanoi offer only charcoal-grilled pork patties with vermicelli rice noodles, served with a huge platter of fresh herbs. Testament to authenticity is found in its patronage – the restaurant is frequented mainly by locals, creating the atmosphere that simply can’t be generated falsely.
backyard travel |
Top 5 Hanoi Street Eats by Thu Lan | Vietnam |
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Bo Bit Tet at Bit Tet Hoa
Thanks to the introduction of French cuisine to Vietnam over history, there are many cross-cultural nuances to be found around the country, including a unique coffee culture and some cuisine anomalies that fall somewhere in between East and West. Bo Bit Tet drops greasily into that category – the dish consists of fried beef, fries, egg and a spoonful of pâté served on a hot plate (often amusingly shaped like a cow). Something of a comfort food, the hot plate is often accompanied by a baguette for dipping and mopping up the last of the tasty juices.
If you’re heading to Vietnam anytime soon, our Travel Specialist Thu Lan would be more than happy to share her extensive local knowledge with you, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with lan: Vietnam@backyardtravel.com
ASIA
IS OUR BACKYARD At Backyard Travel we all share a passion for food, and we especially love the smörgåsbord of culinary choices on offer across the countries we operate in. If you’re not an Asian food lover before your visit, we will do our best to make sure you leave as one, complete with a selection of recipes to prepare at home! But Backyard Travel is about more than just food, it’s about experiencing a country as the local people see it, as we see it. It’s about tasting new experiences and seeing things few are fortunate enough to witness. It’s about sharing our own backyard.
If we have piqued your interest, or if you have found anything here to your taste, just let us know and we will be happy to discuss tour options across any or all of our destinations. Phone: 800-2225-9273
(prefix with your own international dial code)
EMAIL: info@backyardtravel.com We will get back to you within 48 business hours
Live chat: www.backyardtravel.com If we are online, we can chat
Vietnam: vietnam@backyardtravel.com Thailand: thailand@backyardtravel.com Laos: laos@backyardtravel.com Cambodia: cambodia@backyardtravel.com Indonesia: indonesia@backyardtravel.com Myanmar: myanmar@backyardtravel.com Japan: japan@backyardtravel.com China: china@backyardtravel.com
MAY 2014 ISSUE # 1
BACKYARD TRAVEL
Ideas: Maeve Nolan & the Backyard Travel Team – Copywriting: Christian Sutton, partners & friends – Graphic design & layout: Bussarin Grainok.