Bali Buzz by Bali Buzz by The Jakarta Post

Vol. 1/September 25-October 1, 2014

A taste for adventure with Christo Edwards Marine treats in north-eastern Bali

UWRF 2014

SARASWATI

Wisdom & Knowledge

from THE editor

Destination: Ubud Cover Photo: I Wayan Juniarta

Ubud is the best place to be in the coming weeks. The once sleepy town now known as the island’s cultural hub will host two important events. The first is the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival (UWRF) from Oct. 1-5. Dubbed the most exciting literary festival in Southeast Asia, UWRF enters its 11th year, making it the longest running international literary gathering in Indonesia. This is no minor achievement in a country well-known for its low reading habit. Nearly 200 writers from more than 20 countries are expected to participate in the festival’s programs, which range from highly serious panel discussions to highly entertaining poetry slams and art performances. The second is a series of religious rituals: Karya Mamungkah, Tawur Panca Wali Krama, Penyejeg Jagat, Tawur Pedanan, Ngenteg Linggih and Pedudusan Agung at Gunung Lebah,

a historic temple just down the road from the UWRF main venue. These five large-scale rituals mark the completion of the gigantic renovations to the temple believed to have been constructed in the 8th century by Rsi Markandeya, an influential Hindu sage. The preparations started two months ago and the religious event will peak on Oct. 8. Thousands of devotees from across the island will flock to the temple, creating a colorful and moving spectacle of divine devotion. Both events should not be missed. They offer a fuller, deeper picture of Bali, where modern influences meet traditional values and intellectual discourse takes place simultaneously with religious piety. Be there! — The Editor

Pride in fashion

Contents

Mahabandana Prasada a tale of heroism

A taste for adventure with Christo Edwards

08 10 11

Affordable quality art

Marine treats in north-eastern Bali

UWRF surviving the challenges

Eco Defender

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September 25, 2014

Sight

Mahabandana Prasada

a tale of heroism A decisive battle that marked the end of a kingdom is remembered through a cultural parade

Words and Photos Agung Parameswara

s a city of heritage and culture, Denpasar has numerous art and cultural festivities. One of these is the annual Puputan Festival, which this year was held on Saturday, Sept. 20. It was a sunny afternoon, which saw hundreds of artists, Denpasar royalty and the community joyfully participating in the annual cultural parade— Mahabandana Prasada. The parade was integrated into the Puputan Festival to commemorate the 108th anniversary of the heroic Puputan Badung. The word puputan means “fight to the death” and Puputan Badung is seen as a decisive historical moment in Bali’s history. Puputan Badung is commemorated on Sept. 20, as it was on this day in 1906 that the Badung kingdom fell to the Dutch colonial forces. The kingdom comprised three powerful royal families; Denpasar, Pemecutan and Kesiman. Rather than surrender, the king of Badung, his extended family, close aides and his subjects marched toward the line of enemy fire to certain death. This incident was portrayed as a heroic moment and a heart-wrenching ritual mass suicide that made a statement against colonialism. To commemorate the spirit of their ancestors’ heroism, the residents of Banjar Tainsiat, Dangin Puri Kaja village, organized the Mahabandana Prasada cultural parade and Puputan Badung

commemorative event with full support from the Denpasar mayoralty office. The procession of puputan kris, the traditional Balinese short dagger, led by Denpasar king Ida Tjokorda Ngurah Jambe Pemecutan, and the torchlight parade led by Denpasar Mayor Ida Bagus Rai Dharmawijaya Mantra officially marked the opening of the two-day event. The parade started from the Catur Muka statue in downtown Denpasar with a ngelawang procession (traveling Barong performance) followed by Gandrung Klenengan and Gong Lelambatan gamelan repertoire. Dozens of beautiful women carried huge offerings on their heads and were followed by a lavish dance and musical performance by the Sekaa Santhi Lila Cita Banjar Tainsiat troupe. Traditional poems written by Cokorde Mantuk Ring Rana, the young king who led Puputan Badung, were sung during the procession. Numerous dancers presented Balinese traditional dances, including the Baris Sankapala, Legong Lalana Awaduta, Legong Warini and Panji-Panji Puputan Badung. The commemorative events did not stop with the myriad art and cultural activities. The people of Denpasar also enjoyed a busy traditional people’s market, community health programs, art and photo exhibitions and entertainment that brought to life the city and its people. But most importantly, the festivities served as an effective reminder of the heroism of the island’s forefathers.

September 25, 2014

Savour

A taste for adventure with

Christo Edwards

A brilliant wine from a neighbouring country

uch is the long and checkered history of many of the great French and Italian vineyards that one often gets a large dose of nostalgia as part of their story. During World War II, for example, both the Allies and leaders of the Third Reich used vineyards as their regional headquarters, often pillaging the cellars for their own benefit, whilst the history of other vineyards can hark further back to Napoleon and other great figures of history. The story of the Edwards Winery in Margaret River is, in its own way, equally compelling and even features a direct link to the days of 1940s Europe. In 1990, Brian Edwards, the founder of the highly regarded Edwards Estate, followed in the footsteps of the great Australian aviation pioneers, Bert Hinkler and Sir Charles Kingsford Smith, when he flew his 1943 Tiger Moth “Matilda” solo from Binbrook on the east coast of England to Perth on the west coast of Australia. A year after landing in Perth, Brian and his wife Jenny bought a plot of land on the Margaret River and in 1993 the first vines were planted. Today, the 60 acre estate produces premium

September 25, 2014

wines and is run by their sons Mike and Christo, who like their father before them have a thirst for adventure and an appreciation of life’s pleasures. I think it’s fair to say that their wines wholeheartedly reflect that attitude. For Australian vineyards, Indonesia, and Bali in particular, is an exciting and growing market. On Friday, in light of this, Cristo Edwards presented a selection of the family’s wines at the latest VIN+ wine paired luncheon to a mammoth gathering of 45 wine and food lovers. The event opened with a 2010 Edwards Chardonnay to complement the entrées, a choice of Poached Prawns, Seared Chevre Croute or Salmon Gravlix with Vodka Crème Fraiche. A classic pale straw Margaret River Chardonnay with nicely balanced oak and just a little nutty on the nose, this eminently quaffable medium-bodied wine has a very clean zesty finish preceded by complex fruits and yet more subtle oak and nuts, and, as Edwards pointed out, like all their wines it is a terrific accompaniment to food. The choice of mains – Braised Lamb Shank, Braised Octopus Risotto and Seared Salmon

Words and Photos Chris O’Connor

with Saffron Mash, were paired with the 2009 Shiraz and the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, which were served together to facilitate comparison and preferred choice. The surprisingly full-bodied dark crimson 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon has a delicate blackcurrant and mulberry nose with just a trace of mixed spice. Smooth tannins and ripe blackcurrant with soft lingering spices provide good length to this very nice wine. With the salmon, it was a great choice and is an excellent social wine. All the wines were good and at the price point represent a

reasonably valued alternative to many Old World wines on the island. The 2009 Shiraz was my personal pick, not just because I enjoyed its complexity, with ripe cherry and white pepper, or even the subtle spicy oak that contributed to the long and soft finish, but because of its sense of adventure. Traditionally, the Margaret River has not been associated with shiraz, but today, more and more vineyards are producing varietals that are excellent, if not underrated. The Edwards Shiraz is probably one of the best, and a fitting tribute to Brian Edwards by his sons Mike and Christo.

September 25, 2014

Style sight

Pride in fashion A local designer is proud to make hotel employees stylish

Words and Photos Tane Hadiyantono

wi Iskandar is an exceptional and prominent fashion designer, whose pieces range from stunningly elaborate traditional Indonesian clothing to hotel uniforms. His workshop was quite easy to find, but the uphill journey toward Jimbaran proved challenging. Upon arrival at Dwico, a two-story workshop in the Puri Gading housing estate, Iskandar shared his dreams and deep passion for fashion design and the fast-growing industry. “Please call me Dwico!” he said as we shook hands. Asking how he started out, Dwico replied: “I started my carrier working in retail, selling ready-to-wear clothes. I used to run a shop in Sanur, but the first Bali bomb happened [in Oct. 2002], then I moved to Kuta and there was another bomb blast.” Dwico claimed that working in retail had never been simple or easy. “It really requires hard work and a lot of dedication.” Following the two bomb blasts, “I decided to take a short break and traveled to San Francisco for a year.” His yearlong stay in San Francisco enlightened and stimulated him, providing a vast range of experiences and inspiration, as well as new enthusiasm in both his personal life and for his career in the fashion industry. When he returned to Indonesia, he decided not to return to his previous work in retail, instead opting to try designing uniforms for hotel employees. “I soon realized that the market for hotel uniforms was sizable, considering that almost every day a new hotel pops up in Bali,” said Dwico enthusiastically. He gradually crafted a strong foothold in the niche market, which grew robustly with the island’s

September 25, 2014

glitzy tourism. Dwico worked on his maiden project in 2002 when he was commissioned to dress the employees of the Bali Mandira Beach Resort & Spa in Kuta. His designs became the talk of the town and his workshop received a never-ending flow of requests, mail and recommendations from potential clients. “Customer satisfaction is very important. If customers are happy with our work, they will commission us again and recommend us to others. So I don’t really advertise my company as such,” explained the designer, who has also created the uniforms for staff at Four Season Resort Bali, The Westin Resort Nusa Dua and many others. With his long experience as a hotel uniform designer, Dwi confessed that he had never had to take the first step. “All this time, it was always been the hotels that approached me. I’ve never had to come to the hotels, knocking on doors and presenting my ideas, it has always them who seek me out.” More often than not, Dwico wins new customers through recommendations from past customers. However, he admitted that designing hotel uniforms had its own challenges, explaining that to draw inspiration he had to sit down with the hotel higher management and research the hotel thoroughly. Details such as location, building concept, interior design and the nature of local traditions in the area were carefully considered. “I enjoy working and drawing inspiration from the local area. A uniform I designed for a hotel in Lombok was based on their traditional Sasak clothing, but with a little more edge and more modern. I wanted them to be able to represent the hotel and the area,”

declared the graduate of Adrianto Halim Fashion School. Working with hotels has also provided little anecdotes. “There were times I came to the hotels to do research, to talk to the employees and they exclaimed, ‘oh, the tailor is here’. All I could do was smile. They didn’t know that earlier I had been talking with their managers and directors over coffee and design concepts,” Dwico said, with a small smile tugging his face. Dwico said all his designs were a great pride to him. As a designer, he always concentrates on making every piece of clothing unique and special for the client, whether it is for the hotel industry, personal clients, the export market or the fashion runway. “In addition to the uniforms, I also work on some fashion projects, among them were Miss World 2013 when I designed the dresses for Miss Georgia and Miss Malta,” said Dwico as he waved his hand toward a pair of intricate dresses in the corner of the room. “The dresses were based on Tuban batik, with a lot of ethnic approach,” he said, explaining the dresses. Every experience and achievement becomes a stepping-stone for Dwico to build the best image to gain more attention. He believes that it is important to have projects and work around the globe to ensure that customers understand his view in designing clothes -- for every stitch is the result of dedicated work that he takes great pride in. “I want people who wear my clothes to realize that what they’re wearing is unique, that it is designed exclusively for them and them only, so they can wear it with great pride.” As the clock ticks by, it is time to end this fruitful and insightful conversation. Dwico’s calm and passionate explanation of his work shows that it all comes from his great talent, deep love and pride in fashion.

Advertorial

Toasting a brighter future

in ad, media businesses A warm toast. Good company. Fine wine. Words Desy Nurhayati Photos Zul Trio Anggono

losing the Asia Pacific Media Forum (APMF) 2014, The Jakarta Post hosted a farewell cocktail event Saturday night in the lounge of VIN+ Seminyak. Under a clear sky, hundreds of professionals from the marketing, advertising and media industry shared a light moment while sipping free-flow wine and enjoying savory canapés. Set in relaxing surroundings with a touch of Bali in the décor and bamboo walls, the lounge was a perfect venue to hold the event themed “Toasting the Future”. The party mood filled the air as the DJ played a medley of easy listening music, adding to the ambience that night. Executive director Riyadi Suparno took a few minutes to express a warm welcome to the attendees and explain an array of the Post’s products, including newspapers and digital media like JPlus tabloid, Speak! teen magazine and last, but not least, Bali Buzz. Also attending the event were the Post’s marketing team from the Jakarta head office and Bali representative office. Since APMF was initiated in 2005, the Post has shown its

continuous support of the forum dubbed a pro-bono labor-oflove by the leaders of the industry. Delegates attending the conference--which continues to see a remarkable increase in numbers, are those controlling more than 90% of the advertising media budget in Indonesia, as well as highly influential decision makers from across the region. “We are just a bunch of like-minded people who truly care to create synergy between the advertising and media world,” commented Jerry Justianto from the APMF Board of Advisors, who is also chairman of the Association of Asia Pacific Advertising Media. “This atmosphere should be conserved for the next generation of the committee, so that hand in hand we can weather the troubled times of media and advertising together.” All the participants shared similar expectations that the biennial forum would further improve as a rich ground to exchange ideas and explore opportunities in media and consumer engagement in the region. See you at APMF 2016!

September 25, 2014

Cover Story

UWRF

surviving the

challenges An international literary festival overcomes obstacles to bring the most meaningful conversation to the island Words I Wayan Juniarta Photos Courtesy of UWRF

September 25, 2014

he three-story building facing the majestic Campuhan hill was bustling with activities that Wednesday morning as the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival (UWRF) staff carried out the last preparations for the fiveday event slated to open Oct. 1. In the basement, the morning sun shone warmly through a glass door into a spacious area that some 240 volunteers will call their adopted home during the event. Several were on the last leg of filling the festival’s 500 goodie bags with all the free stuff the participants will love. One floor above, the activity was more conceptual than physical. In a deliberately darkened room, the festival’s managers projected the scheduled programs onto the wall and looked for any glitches that might arise on the day. Festival director Janet DeNeefe and her second-in-command and UWRF general manager, Kadek Purnami, listened attentively as each facet of the festival’s execution was deliberated and worstcase scenarios discussed. While the people in the basement, through their incessant bantering and pranks, oozed an exuberant ambience, there was no mistaking the atmosphere on the first floor was of both anxiety and optimism. “I believe that we will have an absolutely gorgeous festival this year,” DeNeefe chimed. DeNeefe is the sun that never fails to shine brightly, even on the darkest days. Over the years, the festival has faced many great difficulties, mostly financial and the lack of significant support from the government. Only in 2010 and 2011, with the involvement of Citibank and ANZ respectively, did the festival enjoy some financial security. All the remaining festivals, including this year’s, have run without any major cash donors. Yet, such difficulties have always failed to erode her faith that the festival will eventually take place and succeed. So far, she has always been right. The annual festival has become not only the largest international literary gathering in Indonesia but also the longest lasting one. That is a magnificent feat to accomplish in a country where books have yet to become a household item and literary festivals rarely survive their fifth year. DeNeefe and her Balinese husband, Ketut Suardana, a stoic man who loves soccer and philosophy---precisely in that order, initiated the first UWRF back in 2004, when the island’s tourist industry suffered from low tourist arrivals triggered by the infamous 2002 Bali bombings, a cowardly terrorist attack that

claimed 202 lives, mostly foreigners. The festival was first designed as a cultural, peaceful response to the bombings. It also served as a philosophical statement that the island, known for centuries as a bastion of multicultural and religious harmony, would not cave in. Moreover, by bringing hundreds of writers and readers from across the globe to the island, both DeNeefe and Ketut hoped to jumpstart the reeling tourist industry. Over the years, the festival has achieved that impact. Noted writers, including celebrated Nigerian playwright and Nobel Laureate Wole Soyinka, have shared their thoughts in the festival and marveled over the rich culture of the host island. Numerous international media have heaped praise on the festival, crowning it one of the best literary festivals in the world. An economic survey conducted during and following the festival showed that it boosted the local tourist industry, particularly in Ubud and its surrounding areas, through accommodation, food and beverages consumed, and transportation and gifts purchased by the participants and audience. They spent an average US$77 per day on transportation and accommodation and a daily average of $43 on meals and shopping. In 2013 alone, the festival injected nearly $900,000 into local businesses. It was estimated that the festival brought approximately $5 million into the local economy in the 2004-2013 period. The actual value is, in fact, believed to be higher, since the survey did not take into account the

audience attending special events, workshops and the free events. UWRF 2013, when the festival celebrated its 10th year, proved to be a great success with recorded increases in both participating authors and attendance, including a larger Indonesian audience. It featured more than 199 brilliant writers, performers, artists and musicians over 220 events across 53 venues in Ubud. The festival also organized satellite events at four cities across Indonesia, as well as community development workshops in Padang, West Sumatera and Banjarbaru, South Kalimantan. The festival has also grown into an influential platform for emerging Indonesian writers. Its dedicated Indonesian Program, first conceived in 2008, is the only literary initiative in the country that provides the opportunity and financial sponsorship for young writers, including unpublished ones, from across the archipelago to attend and speak in an international festival. Each year, the festival’s curatorial board selects 15 young writers out of hundreds of authors who send their works to be invited to UWRF. In 2014, nearly 600 writers from 70 cities across Indonesia participated. The selected works of the invited writers are translated into English and published in a bilingual anthology. The program is fully funded by the Dutch development agency Hivos. “We now have close cooperation with around 40 literary communities across Indonesia and we have assisted some of them to develop their own literary festivals,” Purnami said. Purnami is one of the “four originals”, the all-ladies team

responsible for setting up the inaugural UWRF back in 2004, and spent years as the community development manager tasked with developing the Indonesian Program and the festival’s network across the archipelago. The 2014 festival promises to be a captivating event with a strong array of speakers as well as art performances and, naturally, sumptuous feasts. That despite the fact that it failed to secure the attendance of VS Naipaul, the Nobel laureate, British writer, who made a last-minute request of a large appearance fee that the festival simply could not shoulder. “The integrity of the festival has always been our greatest priority”, said DeNeefe of the news. “Unfortunately, there are some hard choices to be made along the road and, ultimately, we must consider the longevity of the UWRF and all of those involved.” Stepping up to replace Naipaul will be British novelist of Bangladeshi origin Zia Haider Rahman, who has been described as heir to the greats, including the Nobel laureate himself and George Orwell. Other big names that will appear in the festival include Independent Foreign Fiction Prize recipient Hassan Blasim, Baileys Women’s Prize recipient Eimear McBride, 2014 DSC Prize recipient Cyrus Mistry, Japanese writer Minae Mizumura and Chinese author Can Xue. From Indonesia, prominent poet Goenawan Mohamad, moderate Muslim scholar Azyumardi Azra, art patron Agung Rai and the wicked social commentator Made Wijaya have confirmed their attendance. “It’s not just about the big names though,” reflects DeNeefe. “One of the biggest compliments we’ve always received is how the UWRF offers the chance for our audiences to meet with the world’s up and coming talent too, the future literary greats of tomorrow.” In total, 150 authors from more than 25 countries will participate in the festival, which has the main theme of Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of art and science and the patron deity of poets and writers. The meeting had just ended. DeNeefe, in her bright green kebaya, was off to a social function with a big smile on her face, while Wayan Widiatmini, the festival’s sole financial supervisor, was sprinting to the nearby box office building. The festival’s ticket booth officially opened that day and it had sent an exhilarating jolt through all the staff. “At the end of the day, it is a story of determination and perseverance, the two factors that bring us together to this day” Purnami concluded.

September 25, 2014

Sight

Affordable

quality art An upcoming auction to feature fine artworks at a reasonable price

Words and Photos Chris O’Connor

or canny investors, it is likely art is one of the only items within your long-term portfolio that is available 365 days a year for your enjoyment and pleasure – few affordable objects de investment can even get close to

that claim. Art investment returns can be meteoric, but they can also be dreadful, which is what makes Art auXion such an interesting proposition; especially for those of us who appreciate fine art but are perhaps less knowledgeable regarding it as an investment. The Art auXion team is a group of artists and collectors whose knowledge and expertise has been brought together to present a collection of hand-chosen artworks from around the world. Their first auction, on Saturday Oct. 4 at W Retreat and Spa in Seminyak, will showcase 120 pieces by 50 well-known local and international artists and offer buyers the chance to purchase quality art at affordable prices. Participating artists include: Arie Smit (Indonesia/Holland), Anas Etan (Indonesia) , Irene Hoff (Holland), Mersuka Dopazo (Spain), Pandi (Indonesia), Kryono (Indonesia), Niko Vrieling (Holland), Luis Geraldes (Africa), Erika Hestu (Indonesia), Phuong Quoc Tri, (Vietnam) Bui Xuan Pha (Vietnam), Gene Kreyd, (Russia), Nashar (Indonesia), and I Made Arya Palguna (Indonesia), to name just a few. Their mission is: “To increase the exposure and awareness of fine and contemporary art to the general public at a reasonable

September 25, 2014

cost.” To achieve this, they will host regular auctions and exhibitions featuring artists who often push back the boundaries of art throughout Asia. The next auction will be held at the Affordable Art Fair Singapore in November. With their concept of getting great affordable and unique art into the public sphere, they aim to facilitate a new way of thinking and challenging people, via art appreciation, to reject the ordinary. If you are unable to join the auction, or just want a sneak preview, then go to theartauxion.com, where you can also purchase the art online from Sept. 29. The art can also be bought during the exhibition itself, running from Oct. 3 to 7 from 9 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. at the Great Room in W. The first auction session will open at 4:30 p.m., followed by the second session at 7 p.m. But this is Bali, so of course the event is also a party with drinks being served from 3:30 p.m. More refreshments will be served in the one hour break, when music from two of the island’s finest musicians - Rio Sidik and Erik Sondhy, will jazz up the evening. In typical W style, the night closes with an after-event party featuring prizes, Dreamfields Festival DJ music and, of course, much merriment! Interested? Register now for your seat and bidding paddle and perhaps you can take home something special and unique from the next Warhol.

Soul

Eco Defender When socially aware youths meet a clothing line with an attitude

Words Anton Muhajir Photos Anton Muhajir & Courtesy of RMBL

new clothing outlet is about to open on Jl. Teuku Umar, one of Denpasar’s busiest business areas. Visiting the site last week, the outlet was still being prepared and three construction workers were busy adding finishing touches within the store, with black being the dominant color for the interior. “It is still so messy here, our target is to open the store in October,” said Ady Hydrant, the store manager. The three-story building is indeed no ordinary clothing store, like others operating along Jl. Teuku Umar, as Ady explained. “The first floor will become a fashion store, the second floor will be transformed into a cozy hangout for the city’s youths while the third floor has been deliberately designed as a music and recording studio,” he said. What a place! The new building will house the fifth branch of the most sought-after youth clothing line, Rumble, established 10 years ago in Kuta. Other branches have been opened in Ubud, Batubulan and even in Yogyakarta. RMBL, the trademark for Rumble, is now

a hot talking point among young fashion enthusiasts across Bali. More than a clothing producer, Rumble has a powerful mission -- to arouse youth awareness on the current environmental condition of the island and other places in Indonesia. To channel its social and environmental concerns, Rumble has launched a bold and ambitious program named Eco Defender. The initial idea to set up the program came out of thoughtful but friendly discussions between Ady and two other musicians— Prima Yudhistira, the lead vocalist of the metal band Geeksmile, and Ary Astina, popularly known as Jerinx, the drummer in punk band Superman is Dead (SID). The three young men were eager to voice their thoughts on social issues through their music and community-based activities. “The name Eco Defender emerged from our concerns over social issues. It was Prima’s idea to have that name. We thought it was cool,” Ady said. Jerinx added Eco Defender aimed to harmoniously blend fashion and rebellion. “What a combination. You know a lot of young

people want to look ‘rebellious’ through their fashion statements. Rebellion is youth’s nature.” Eco Defender is a way to vent their rebellious nature through positive and innovative actions. “Actually, Eco Defender serves as a bridge to connect their brilliant ideas with the world’s reality. The ideas must be manifested in activities that benefit many people and society,” said Jerinx. One of its campaigns is Siu Ajak Liu, which in Balinese language means collecting Rp 1,000 (8 US cents) to help the needy. Rumble will donate Rp 1,000 from the sale of any of its fashion items and deliver the money to various social and community-based organizations and activities. Currently, Rumble produces T-shirts, shirts, jackets, shorts, socks, hats and sunglasses, as well as hair care products. In the course of time, Ady, Prima and Jerinx have come to consider the environment as one of the most crucial issues Bali has faced. “Bali’s environment is on the brink of a catastrophe due to overexploitation by the island’s tourist industry,” Jerinx said. Rumble works closely with influential environmental advocate, the Indonesian Forum for the Environment (Walhi) Bali branch. “They [Walhi] have proven so courageous and consistent in protecting the environment and in encouraging people to be aware of our ruined nature. Walhi has always been a frontrunner when it comes to defending the rights of the people and the environment.” Rumble raises funds under the Eco Defender program to support Walhi’s operations by collecting between Rp 1,000 to Rp 4, 000 from the sale of its products, allowing it to channel between Rp 2 to Rp 4 million to Walhi per month. Additionally, funding is generated from charity music concerts held by numerous punk

and indie bands. For Walhi, Eco Defender, with its sustainable funding program, has given it fresh blood. Walhi is only allowed to receive individual funding of no more than Rp 300,000 per person and receives insufficient operational funding from its headquarters in Jakarta. “What’s really important about Eco Defender is the public’s changing perception. Previously, the public, the government and industry were too suspicious that Walhi’s activities were skewed toward certain interests and that its advocacy activities were backed by certain political or business parties,” said Suriadi Darmoko, director of Walhi Bali. The Eco Defender program, Darmoko added, had proven that Walhi Bali was purely supported by transparent and accountable public funding. “It is so encouraging to see active, creative and trendy young people who really care about other people and the environment. Seeing their involvement in various environmental and social activities has made us so proud of them,” shared Jerinx. The Eco Defender program has widened its outreach activities to also touch on other important humanitarian issues. Recently, Eco Defender held a humanitarian concert called “Love for Gaza” to help the people of Gaza in Palestine. Through its music and fashion, Eco Defender goes beyond social, religious, ethnic and geographical borders, touching the humanity in us all. September 25, 2014

Sight

How to get there: Seraya is 2.5 - 3 hours from Bali’s Ngurah Rai International Airport by road. Local shuttle services are available to nearby Amed and Tulamben. The dive spot: Being a shore dive with acceptable water clarity and gentle to no current, diving at Seraya is relatively easy. The main dive area is between 10-24 meters deep.

Marine treats in north-eastern Bali

A less touristy village offers the most-talked about diving sites

Words and Photos Wira Wijoga

ituated quite far away in a less touristy area, Seraya has fallen prey to the overwhelming publicity of its neighbor, Tulamben, which hosts waters full of critters and fish, as well as the richly historical USS Liberty wreck. Without undermining Tulamben’s attractiveness, the dive site’s popularity is also helped by the fact that many of southern Bali’s dive operators include it in their open water course ocean dives to complement their house reef dives. Most popular dive sites in Bali, probably in the world, share three common qualities: good visibility, beautiful coral reefs and fish-rich water. Apart from the generally acceptable water clarity, Seraya, in fact, does not share these qualities. The coastline was affected by Mount Agung’s eruption and subsequently has abundant black sand and rock in its waters. It is less publicized, less discussed and is more of a mucknatured dive site, making dive operators reluctant to suggest this trip to their mainstream customers. Despite all these unencouraging words about Seraya, for underwater photographers, surprisingly, it is one of the most

September 25, 2014

talked-about sites. The easy access and the fact it is in a major tourist destination are only two reasons. The phrases “macro heaven”, “Bali’s Lembeh” and “easiest muck dive” are regularly mentioned. Being a recent enthusiast to underwater photography, I couldn’t hide my beginner’s curiosity and was eager to see this Lembeh-like dive site in Bali and started planning my dive there, eventually doing two! My dive buddies were a competition winner in underwater photography and a dive instructor. The topography of the Seraya site is gentle slopes with little, or close to no, current. An encounter with various types of nudibranches is expected and, if you are one of the lucky ones, you might even see the Pikachu nudibranch. Mantis shrimps, porcelain crab and eels are in good numbers too. On better days (which are often), you might also expect to also see frogfish and moray eels receiving their dental service from cleaner shrimps and a variety of ghost pipefish. “Just perfect,” I thought. That day, I had a seasoned underwater photographer with me as a buddy to teach me tricks and an experienced guide / instructor who did not stop to look for photo objects as we were taking pictures of the critters there. That Seraya dive is one of the happiest diving days I have had. After 300 dives or more, I count this dive as a milestone in my diving career as it was there, for the first time ever, I found not one, not two, but three harlequin shrimps to add to my photo portfolio! Seraya is situated just a short drive from the quiet diving village of Amed and the iconic Tulamben, making this a site you should include in your dive plan for your next visit to northeast Bali.

clads

Advertise with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com

ACCOMMODATION

Fully furnished 4 airconditioned rooms available for long or short-term stay. Close to beach, restaurants and shopping area. Email stayinkuta@yahoo.com or call 081 7470 7559

FOR SALE

Freehold house for sale located on Jl. Gunung Salak. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1.5km to Seminyak, Rp1.7 billion nego. Call owner 0813 3772 9298 or email desakjs@hotmail.com House for sale at Taman Griya, land 112m2, 2 floors, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, garage, garden with fish pond, fully furnished, price Rp1.2 billion nett. Call 0819 994 82344 House for sale on Jl. Merpati, Monang Maning, Denpasar. Land 3 are, building 2 are, 2 floors, 5 bedrooms, 2 kitchens, 3 bathrooms, garage for 4 cars. Price 2.5 billion nego. Call 0812 815 7501 House for sale. Freehold, 2 storey, 4 bedrooms, large living area, open kitchen, 3 bathrooms, front garden, terrace, balcony, parking and security. Fully furnished. Very good location. Call 0361 735 236 or email rama@zeelandnet.nl Minimalist house for sale, located at Jl. Raya Pemogan Gg. Mutiara Indah 1 no. 80. Land 100m2, building 150m2. Road access 5 meters, 2 floors, 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living room, garage, 1300 watt electricity. SHM/IMB, price Rp1.35 billion nego. Call 0361 843 4143

LAND

Land, 4.85 are, located 500m before Pecatu Graha on Jl. Pantai Matsuka. Villa for sale, close to Pandawa Beach. 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 2 floors, land 4.55 sqm, swimming pool. Please call 0878 625 76999 (owner).

SERVICES Accountant, tax consultant, QuickBooks expert. Call 0878 600 22239 anggra1@yahoo.com Bored in Bali? Why not charter a yacht for a Â˝ day out on the ocean? Sundowner Yacht Charter offers fantastic cruises for 2 to 24 people, incl. sunset dinner & onboard BBQ. www.bali-cat.com CV Yazna Villa Management. Professional service for all needs. Located at Jl. Majapahit No.76 Kuta. Office 0361 767 108. Mobile 0812 382 3731 Do you need a consultant for your F&B outlet? Contact Fokus Hospitality for one-stop solution. 0361 274 0619 English private tutor offers English/Math tuition for children 5-12yrs. 7 years experience as a classroom teacher in UK & Australia. Call 0817 470 3070 Indonesian freelance cook. Text Elok 0813 902 36628 Made to order: bags, wallets, jackets, leather. Pls call 0819 3621 9030 Need a building contractor? Call 0881 460 2907 / 0812 360 9639 Painting courses, professional artist. Call 0361 837 2501 Planning a holiday or wedding in Bali? Book a private villa. Call/text 0822 3660 8284. E: book@balivillasreservation.net

Private teacher, Bahasa Indonesia for foreigners. Dwi. Call 0813 3870 5158 or email dwi.astari@yahoo.com www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertising photography.

VILLAS

New villa for sale, located on Jl. Nelayan, Pantai Batu Bolong. 3 are land, 2 floors, fully furnished, 10m2 pool, Jacuzzi, 3 master bedrooms, maid room. SHM + IMB, 800m to beach, beach and rice field view. Price 6.5 billion. Call 081 999 482344 Villa for sale, 2.74 are land, 2 floors, 3 bedrooms, swimming pool, garden, garage, kitchen, living room, located in Pererenan, 10 minutes to beach, close to Echo Beach and Pantai Batu Bolong Canggu. Price 2.7 billion. Call 087 8611 98339 Villa for sale, located on Jl. Umalas 2 Bumbak Kerobokan. 620m2 land, 700m2 building, 2 floors, garden for BBQ, swimming pool, 6 bedrooms, 5 bathrooms, staff room, SHM + IMB 2011, 24-hr security, Rp12 billion nego. Call 0823 395 35676

September 25, 2014

Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com The Lights of Faith - Theater show From Monday to Saturday Starts 8 p.m. A cultural theater show to feel the magic of Bali in every story! Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta : (0361) 762750 or Robert 0878 617997

The Harvest Jakarta’s most exclusive European pastry shop chain presents a slice of Paris. Jl. Sunset Road No. 815, Kuta : (0361) 8496488

Love in Tents & Friends Sept. 26 From 9 p.m. – 2 a.m. Warehouse 82, Seminyak

Sanur

Marapu – Reggae Dub-Night Sept. 27 Starts 7 p.m. Casablanca Jl. Danau Tamblingan No. 120, Sanur Ubud Writers & Readers Festival 2014 Oct. 1 - 5 Southeast Asia’s largest and most exciting literary event. Full program and tickets now at ubudwritersfestival.com

Events Calendar of Events Bali Bike Fest II Sept. 26 From 1 – 11 p.m. Jl. Pantai Matahari Terbit, Sanur Bali Organic Market Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday From 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunrise Organic Market offers you fresh veggies, dried goods (fruit, beans, etc.), local milk, natural remedies and nice people. Jl. Merta Sari, Kerobokan : Dewi (0361) 735824 Capoeira Festival Oct. 1 – 10 A one-week Brazilian cultural festival. Capoeira workshop. The Curve Studio Jl. Petitenget No. 12B, Seminyak : Noko Nokinho 0815 585 59660 Cosmic Comedy: Monkey Blissness Sept. 27 Starts 7:30 p.m. BetelNut Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Frozen Gourmet Treats at Mulia Deli Endless combinations await at Mulia Deli’s all-out ice cream indulgence. There’s no better summer pleasure than this! The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas Nusa Dua : (0361) 3017777 ext. 6918 Grand Opening Series k Sept. 26 From 9 p.m. – 3 a.m. An opening series featuring Kazaky and DJ Yasmin Fashion Love Bar Jl. Raya Legian No. 21, Kuta Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m. Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784

September 25, 2014

Sunset Beach Bar & Grill Every Saturday Chill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality. Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888 Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1. Meads Boutique Villas Hotel Jl. Pratama No. 99, TanjungBenoa : (0361) 776604

Food & Drinks Denpasar

Coffee Secret’s Great place to hang out with friends, sipping coffee and listening to soothing music. Jl. Drupadi No. 32, Denpasar Warung Ole Welcoming place to meet friends and enjoy great barbeque ribs and other Balinese cuisine. Jl. Mahendradatta No. 100, Denpasar : (0361) 490458

Jimbaran

KO Restaurant Authentic Japanese flavors and tasty delicacies only here. Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888 Warung Ikan Bakar Mami Very affordable grilled fish delicacies. Jl. Uluwatu II No. 30X, Jimbaran

Kerobokan

Blooming Village Beautiful rice field views, great place to relax and have a drink. Jl. Umalas No. 7, Kerobokan Kedai Tjap Loko Traditional street food after midnight. Jl. Braban, Kerobokan : 081311152009 Kopi Langit Rooftop Lounge Chill out and enjoy their authentic pizzas. Jl. Umalas II No. 83, Kerobokan : (0361) 737500

Kuta

Feast Buffet dinner overlooking Kuta Beach. Liveaction cooking. Traditional and international food. Kid-friendly. Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta : (0361) 8645555

Ketumbar A great place serving European cuisine, with lovely staff. Jl. Melasti, Kuta : (0361) 754144 Café Batu Jimbar Popular, child-friendly place to eat, with Sunday Indonesian snack food market. Jl. Danau Tamblingan 75A, Sanur : (0361) 287374 Three Monkeys Sanur Hot food, cool jazz, with flavors from Bali to Mecca. Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur : (0361) 286002

Seminyak

Chandi Fresh, organic ingredients give all the dishes appealing sensory characteristics! Jl. Laksmana No. 72, Seminyak : (0361) 731060 Meja Restaurant and Bar Great atmosphere, food, and price. IZE Hotel Jl. Kayu Aya No. 68, Oberoi, Seminyak : (0361) 8466996 Fayola A tiny café in Seminyak serving great healthy food. Don’t forget their desserts! Jl. Raya Seminyak Gg. 14, Seminyak (in front of Ryoshi)

Ubud

Jendela House Small French restaurant offering authentic French cuisine. Jl. Sri Wedari, Ubud : (0361) 7141318 Gaya Gelato The greatest gelato in Bali. Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 979252 or 979253 Laka Leke Restaurant Wonderful special Crispy Duck in a comfortable Ubud restaurant. Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning,Ubud : (0361) 977565

Activities Billiards

Mango Beach Bar Play pool, relax with your friends over a beer and enjoy the beach view. Jl. Pantai Kuta, Sanur Obrigado New billiard hall in the middle of Denpasar. Play and enjoy the Italian food. Jl. Teuku Umar, Denpasar WBC Billiard Open daily. Play pool with your friends, choose the table you like and get the stick you love. Jl. Teuku Umar No. 39, Denpasar : (0361) 7420676

Courses Adjani Bali Learn to prepare a variety of dishes, presentation and garnishing. Kaliasem, Lovina, Singaraja : 081236232019 www.adjanibali.com

Anika Cooking Class Bali Learn techniques and fresh herbs, spices and ingredients that make Balinese food tasty and nutritious. Jl. Elang No. 3, KomplekBurung, Tuban : (0361) 9366133 Centrestage Music & Drama Music lessons, music studio, drama and musical theater, musical productions and DJ workshops, hip hop and V street dance. Centrestage Jl. Dukuh Indah, Umalas, Kerobokan : 082144815165 Dance Lessons Dance for life. Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x : (0361) 7452045 Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music. Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures. Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220 Nirvana Batik Course Learn the traditional art of batik making Jl. Gautama No. 10, Padangtegal, Ubud : (0361) 975415 Payuk Bali A traditional kitchen and restaurant. Sit by Petanu River for a soothing atmosphere. Jl. Pejeng Kawan, Laplapan, Ubud : (0361) 8987854 Puri Santrian – Balinese Cooking Class Discover the culinary secrets of authentic Balinese cuisine. Interactive cooking class including early morning food shopping tour to Sindu Market. Jl. Cemara No. 35, Sanur : (0361) 288009 Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about! Jl. Hanoman, Ubud : (0361) 974244 info@studioperak.com The Mozaic Culinary Workshop Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud : (0361) 975768 Email: info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com

Cycling Emerald Cycling Tour This all-ages ride takes you along quiet back roads into forests, past plantations and rice terraces and through small villages. Jl. Bisma, Ubud : (0361) 7425482 Bali Star Cycling Young, dynamic, experienced friendly guides, great cycling tours. Routes off the beaten track for a totally different view on Bali then the average tourist has. Jl. Imam Bonjol, Perum Cipta Selaras No. 30, Denpasar : (0361) 3172020 or 9228274

Diving Atlantis International Bali Diving Centre Diving in Sanur is conveniently close. This attractive diving location offers light or mild current flow, suitable for beginners and professionals. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 96E, Sanur. : (0361) 284131 Absolute Scuba Dive paradise in the middle of the Indonesian archipelago and at the westernmost end of the Lesser Sunda Islands. Jl. Pantai Silayukti, Padang Bai : +62 (0363) 42088 Email: info@absolutescubabali.com absolutescubabali.com

Fishing Bali Fishing Personal German and English-speaking guides, come as a guest, leave as a friend. Email: balisportfishing@gmail.com www.bali-fishing.com Bali Spear Fishing Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Suwung Kauh, Denpasar : (0361) 722384 | Fax : (0361) 722384 Email: info@balispearfishing.com www.balispearfishing.com Fishing Bali Sensation Jigging and popping specialists, fantastic trolling at all their spots!! Amazing fishing locations around Bali and Lombok. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran : 081237802601

Rafting Bali Payung Rafting Adventure For more than a dozen years, Ayung River rafting has been hugely popular. Jl. Raya Payangan, Gianyar : 0819 994 4188 payung_rafting@yahoo.com Mega Rafting Bali Journey through winding gorges, luscious jungles, magnificent terraced rice fields and breathtaking waterfalls for unparalleled fun on the river. Jl. HayamWuruk No. 114 TanjungBungkak, Denpasar : (0361) 246724 Sobek Bali Largest transport network in Bali. Comfortable, air-conditioned vehicles linked by radio to monitor client journeys. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 257, SuwungKangin, Denpasar : (0361) 729016

Water Park Circus Waterpark Get adventurous and enjoy thrilling water games. Jl. Kediri, Kuta : (0361) 764003 Waterbom Bali More than 21 world-class waterslides and leisure facilities for all ages. Located in the heart of Kuta. Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta : (0361) 755676 Email: info@waterbom-bali.com

Where to go

Ubud Writers & Readers Festival 2014

2 1

Oct. 1 - 5 Southeast Asia’s largest and most exciting literary event. Full program and tickets now at ubudwritersfestival.com

Ryoshi House of Jazz presents:

Jazz Central Sept. 26 Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17 www.facebook.com/page/ryoshi-bali

Menjangan Island SINGARAJA LOVINA

Pulaki Gilimanuk

Mt. Sangiang

Mt. Batur Mt. Musi

West Bali National Park

Besakih Mt. Agung

NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi

AMLAPURA BANGLI

Sangeh Ubud

TABANAN

KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR

Tanah Lot Kerobokan

Canggu Seminyak Legian Kuta Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

Jimbaran Pura Luhur Uluwatu

DENPASAR

1 4

Sanur

3 Benoa

Pura Batu Madan

Penida Island

Nusa Dua

Beachwalk Beauty Talks

September Many attractive shows, tutorials, yoga classes and kids entertainment. Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta : (0361) 8464888 www.beachwalkbali.com

The Hedonist Burger by Pullman

Experience the Hedonist Burger by Pullman for US$170 including free flow wine and beer. Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana, Jl. Melasti No. 1, Legian, : (0361) 762500 www.pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com

Barbacoa Lunch

Enjoy lunch for Rp 100,000, or Rp 150,000 with a glass of wine. 1 tapas item, plus either Grilled Squid or BBQ Paprika Chicken. Jl. Petitenget No. 14, Kerobokan

September 25, 2014