Bali Buzz #38

Vol. 1/May 15-May 20, 2015

More

than just food

Green initiative

Pulaki Temple

White Sand Beach

from THE editor

Traditional foods

Cover Photo: Anggara Mahendra

Sampling local cuisine is a much-anticipated highlight of a visitor’s exploration of a new destination. In Bali, however, world-class restaurants serving Balinese traditional food are rare, and if you can find one, the menu is usually limited to lawar (minced meat and vegetables), babi guling (suckling pig) and crispy duck.

Much more varied offerings can be found in food stalls and roadside warung. However, their cleanliness and packaging are often alarming to all but the most intrepid of travelers.

This edition’s cover story focuses on a local food expert whose life-long dream is to take Balinese traditional foods to the world stage.

It will be years before his dream materializes. He has taken the first step and the island’s tourist industry needs to take the next step by providing traditional Balinese foods with greater exposure and presence in their establishments.

--The Editor

06

Satay lilit and meatballs

Contents

04

05

‘Nampah Kampad’

Pulaki Temple

07 White Sand Beach 08 More than just food 10 Gili Air 11 Green initiative 12 Bejana 16 Sea salt farming in Pesinggahan

PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA i Editorial and General Department Jl. Tukad Musi VI/17 Kav.1 Renon Denpasar Bali

(0361) 265 436, 265 437

Fax (0361) 223 698

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Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi

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May 15, 2015

Celebration

Celebrating Moms “Extra special resort-style pampering for moms”

M

ay 10, Mother’s Day in a number of countries, is the perfect day to honor moms with an array of pampering experiences.

Whether it was a scrumptious brunch of Italian food or an indulgent spa treatment, the Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali was ready to treat all mothers.

In celebration, the resort dedicated the day to ensuring well-deserving moms had a fabulous time of pampering and relaxation.

The resort’s Italian restaurant, Prego, presented a Mother’s Day family brunch with delicious food and fun activities for everyone in the family.

“We are excited to support families to honor moms by treating them to special experiences on Mother’s Day. Our team has created thoughtful specials and offerings from the resort’s exceptional restaurant and spa,” said director of marketing communications, Dewi Anggraini.

As moms were having their time to relax and unwind while enjoying the culinary delights and beverage specials presented by Italian Chef de Cuisine Alessandro Molini and his team, dads and children created cupcakes in the SuperChefs corner and made cute “I

WORDS DESY NURHAYATI PHOTOS COURTESY OF WESTIN RESORT NUSA DUA

Love Mom” cards.

The junior chefs were helped to complete their unique, individually decorated colorful cupcakes to present to their moms as a Mother’s Day gift.

In addition to the activities at the SuperChefs corner, Prego’s little patrons could also have fun in the restaurant’s outdoor area with games and entertainment.

After lunch, moms had the chance to enjoy their me-time for a little longer as the resort’s Heavenly Spa offered a free mini pampering session - including a relaxing head, shoulder and back massage, in the spa corner.

Moms who chose to lay back and drift off further in bliss could take up more complete spa treatments in Heavenly Spa under the care of a dedicated therapist.

Special for this Mother’s Day, moms could also experience the Mamma Mia Spa Escape, a replenishing two-hour journey incorporating pre-treatment use of thermal facilities, followed by a body scrub with a personalized aromatherapy scent and Heavenly Signature Massage to ensure deep relaxation.

It was surely a perfect setting to reconnect the whole family.

May 15, 2015

3

Soul

‘Nampah Kampad’ “A ritual to protect young girls” Words and photos Luh De Suriyani

R

ecently every resident was busy preparing for a ritual unique to Tenganan Penggringsingan village in Karangasem, eastern Bali.

Called Nampah Kampad, which literally means to eliminate dirt or negative influence, as with other Tenganan rituals, it is rich in philosophical and social significance.

This ritual is held in sasih kapat, or the fourth month of the Balinese calendar, and serves as a reminder, especially to parents, for young girls to be carefully raised and protected from harm, including sex out of wedlock, which could lead to pregnancy and early marriage.

Sex before marriage is taboo in Tenganan Penggringsingan, home to an indigenous Bali community popularly known as the Bali Aga, who strongly uphold their own unique traditions and culture.

If an unmarried girl becomes pregnant, her family will have to hold a special ritual and pay a fine to the village council. While the fine may be small, perhaps only Rp 1,000 (7 US cents), it is a powerful form of social punishment for parents who have failed to protect their daughters.

Several hours prior to the ritual, every member of the village was already making elaborate preparations.

From early in the morning, the women had been making offerings of lawar, a local dish made of grated coconut, sliced meat, green beans and spices. Both lawar merah (red lawar) and lawar putih (white lawar) offerings had been placed on banana leaves. The offerings also contained 11 other foods, such as urutan (pork sausage), oret (sausage made with pork blood and coconut milk), satay and timbung (spicy meat soup).

The men of the village cooked all the food, while the women then presented it in beautiful offerings.

“These offerings serve as a spiritual cleansing instrument to wash

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May 15, 2015

away all negative elements from parents, daughters and all other family members,” explained village chief I Wayan Yasa.

Several young people, who were helping with the ritual, said the traditions and rituals in Tenganan Penggringsingan village were intended to create a happy and blessed life.

A number of these rituals are dedicated to youths, such as Teruna Nyoman, which equips young men with the necessary knowledge to become adults and to start married life and sees them enter a year-long education period in a boarding house away from their families.

Similarly, young women also obtain the various life skills they require before marriage, although their education is shorter than the boys’.

In the neighboring village of Desa Asak, the Ngelawang Daha ritual requires young girls to dedicate their lives to the village’s temples to prepare religious ceremonies and other rituals to worship their ancestral deities for a certain period prior to entering married life.

“All of the rituals are designed to prepare young people to be ready in physical [reproductive health], spiritual and emotional terms for when they are adults and building families of their own,” Yasa said.

This ancient Balinese community has had its own ways of promoting health and a responsible lifestyle to young people long before modern society decided to adopt such principles in various youth programs.

Sight

Pulaki Temple “An exotic northern temple guarded by ‘sacred’ monkeys” WORDS AND PHOTOS EKA JUNI ARTAWAN

N

estled magnificently on the hills overlooking the SingarajaGilimanuk road in northern Bali, Pulaki Temple offers an enchanting view from a seaside shrine.

The temple, located around 54 kilometers west of Singaraja, is considered one of the largest and most important temples on the island, and Hindu adherents flock there during major celebrations.

One distinctive character of Pulaki is the presence of a troop of monkeys believed to be the guardians of the temple. Although not threatening, these macaques could be quite disturbing as they often stole visitors’ belongings, said Ketut Tastra, a pecalang (traditional security guard).

“What they like most is the eggs in the religious offerings, fruits and flowers,” said Tastra, who is very familiar with the monkeys’ characters.

Not only targeting the offerings, they are also often spotted stealing worshippers’ sandals, but they never take shiny objects, like sunglasses or cameras.

To ensure the worshippers feel safe and comfortable, Tastra always carries a long wooden stick to ward off the monkeys. But he never hurts them, as he believes their presence is closely related to the temple’s

history. The monkeys are considered sacred guardians.

Dating back to the 16th century, the establishment of Pulaki Temple was associated with the arrival of priest Ida Bhatara Danghyang Nirartha. As stated in some lontar manuscripts, the temple then became the throne for Sanghyang Widhi, and a place to worship Danghyang Dwijendra.

There are other temples around Pulaki, all worth visiting for those interested in Balinese culture; all of these shrines are associated with Pulaki Temple.

To the south of Pulaki temple is Melanting temple, where I Dewa Ayu Melanting resides.

To the east, is Kertha Kawat, the place of I Dewa Mentang Yuda.

Pemuteran Temple is located to the west, which is believed to belong to Ida Bhatara Manik Ngencorong. Meanwhile, Pabean Temple is located to the north. Hindus believe that this temple is where I Dewa Ayu Mas Subandar resides.

Located between the hills and the sea, Pulaki Temple has a very high spiritual energy, in addition to its enchanting view with dense tropical forest to one side and the blue ocean to the other.

May 15, 2015

5

Savor

S

ate lilit, satay of spicy, minced fish usually, is one of Bali’s most ubiquitous dishes. Every village boasts of its own version, which can, in fact, be made from minced chicken, pork, beef or fish.

But when you drop in to one of food stalls along Lebih Beach or on Jalan By Pass Ida Bagus Mantra, you will find that their satay lilit have a similar shape, texture and taste.

The secret lies with their creator — a team of local chefs.

The team lives close to Lebih Beach and, every day, they process hundreds of kilograms of tuna and marlin to produce the majority of the sate lilit and meatballs sold in the area.

In their huge kitchen, or more precisely workshop, everyone has their own part to play, from chopping tuna fish into cubes and placing it into several freezers, to processing spices.

The men work fast in the noisy atmosphere, where a generator powers the equipment and freezers.

Balinese dishes require a complete range of spices, known as bumbu megenep, which consists of galangal, ginger, onion, shallot, garlic, turmeric, lemongrass, chilies, shrimp paste and lime leaves, among others.

All the spices are cleaned and then mixed in a blender, after which, I Wayan Panye, the “master chef”, carefully blends them with the minced fish and a little sea salt, grated coconut, brown sugar and lime leaves in a grinding machine.

“The marlin meat makes a soft, moist and fluffy texture for the satay. It is the best fish for satay lilit,” he said.

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May 15, 2015

Satay lilit and meatballs

“A sweet collaboration between local chefs”

Words and photos Luh De Suriyani

After ten minutes, the satay lilit mixture is ready.

“I sell this for Rp 35,000 [US$2.65]. The satay lilit vendor will put it onto bamboo skewers or shape it into meatballs.”

Panye also gives his loyal customers a special bonus — fish broth and chili sauce, with extra processed spices.

A large number of housewives are also his faithful fans. “Buying the ingredients for satay lilit is more practical than processing it at home.

It is ready for grilling,” said one customer.

So, the secret is out. Satay lilit fans who enjoy the delicious taste of the satay served at food stalls along Lebih Beach have the men behind this delicacy — I Wayan Panye and his dedicated team, to thank.

Sight

White Sand Beach

“An untapped beauty in the east” Words and photos Eka Juni Artawan

T

he resort area of Candidasa is a prime tourist destination for eastern Bali’s Karangasem regency.

The pristine beaches in the area stretch for kilometers and are sandwiched between two hills — forming the concept of nyegara gunung, or ocean and mountains, considered a perfect and harmonious concept in nature according to Balinese spatial and philosophical ideas.

Six kilometers from Candidasa town is a stunning beach known by the locals as Pantai Bias Putih, or White Sand Beach, which for some reason attracts few visitors.

Located in Bugbug village, the beach, which is also called Virgin Beach as it is little explored and has untapped beauty, offers beautiful views.

“The village has been trying to turn the beach into a tourism destination since the early 1990s,” said Wayan Mas Astawa, head of Bugbug customary village.

Most of the beach is geographically in Bugbug village. “But we don’t have adequate access to the beach, so we have worked with the neighboring village of Perasi, which has easier access to the beach from the main Karangasem-Denpasar road,” Astawa said.

The best access, especially for those who are unfamiliar with the area, is from a small street in Perasi village, which is on the main

road connecting Amlapura and Padangbai.

The road sign for Pantai Bias Putih is almost invisible.

It is just one kilometer to the beach, through rice fields and plantations and passing rural homes.

There is a quite spacious plot of land used for parking, then it is a five-minute walk along a stony village road. Visitors have to pay Rp 3,000 (23 US cents) per person to gain access to the beach.

A line of simple food stalls with thatched roofs offer local food, snacks and cold drinks, while a dozen female masseurs are ready to pummel your tired body.

Komang Yos, a water sports operator, said people usually went fishing and snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters off this beach.

“There are four beautiful points for people to start snorkeling. One is located behind that hill,” said Yos, pointing at a huge, green hill. “That is the most beautiful site for snorkeling and to enjoy the wonderful underwater life off Virgin Beach,” he added.

The locals, however, are concerned that this natural beauty will not last as numerous investors and individuals are striving to make the most of every opportunity to develop properties along Bali’s coastlines in particular. Only time will tell if White Sand Beach falls into their hands.

May 15, 2015

7

Cover Story

I

t was a hot and humid Tuesday afternoon, but the towering trees and green shrubs that flanked the narrow pathway inside the Yoga coffee shop and cooking class compound in Mengwi, Badung, offered perfect protection against the scorching sun.

The loud, mechanical sounds produced by cars and motorbikes speeding along the nearby Denpasar-Bedugul highway gradually vanished as we made our way into the 3,000-square-meter facility.

Our eyes greedily devoured the feast of colors served by the green coffee shrubs and their deep red and yellow berries. A kaleidoscope of yellow butterflies added a fine stroke to the canvas of natural beauty.

The pathway opened up into a clearing set against hectares of lush paddy fields.

A humble structure housing a traditional Balinese kitchen with a wood-fired stove lay to the left of the clearing, while an open hall with a long wooden table and bench, which reminded us of the interior of a Balinese warung, lay in the center.

On the wooden bench sat I Ketut Pramana, fondly called Go Gonk by his friends, with his signature big, warm smile splashed across his face. He loves visitors and is always passionate about being a good host.

Soon, glasses of freshly brewed coffee, from the humble black Bali coffee, to coconut coffee and exotic civet coffee, appeared on the tables, closely followed by a lively conversation that spanned from the mundane to the esoteric.

Just a few days earlier, Go Gonk had

More than just food “A local food expert tries to revive ‘endangered’ traditional Balinese foods” Words I Wayan Juniarta Photos Anggara Mahendra

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May 15, 2015

launched his first book in his family’s Warung Tresni, a rustic eatery in Renon, Denpasar, famous for its tipat kuah (rice cake with chicken broth and spicy vegetables).

The book, titled Resep Kuliner Warisan Leluhur Bali (The Culinary Recipes of Bali’s Ancestors), is arguably the first cook book that details both popular and “endangered” traditional Balinese foods.

Inside the 204-page book are some of Bali’s most well-known foods, including the popular sambal matah (a spicy condiment of chopped raw shallot, garlic and chili), gerang asem (thick chicken soup made with the meat of a rooster killed in a tajen cockfight), and pesan layur tabya gadang (steamed beltfish in banana leaves).

“This book is about foods that were or still are consumed as daily nourishment by the Balinese. The traditional foods served during religious or community festivals, such as the ever-popular babi guling (suckling pig) and lawar (minced meat and vegetables), will be the subject of my second book,” he said.

The best parts of the book, however, are the recipes for traditional foods that are rarely heard of, let alone seen, in contemporary Bali, especially in its most urbanized regions.

Be capung (grilled dragonflies) is one of these. It is served with a modest sauce made of salt and coconut oil. Another example is urap don jepun (boiled frangipani leaves mixed with spices and grated coconut).

There are also recipes for foods that surely will make many westerners and Balinese of the younger generation leave the dining table in a hurry: kuah nyawan (spicy curry made of

honeycomb and bee pupae) and nyat nyat ancruk (braised sago worms).

It took him nearly two years to prepare the book due to difficulties in finding the raw ingredients. The sago worms, for instance, can only be found in the trunk of rotten sago or palm trees. Dragonflies are becoming a rarity on the island, where the conversion of paddy fields into housing, hotels and villas can reportedly reach up to 1,000 hectares per year, such that to make a single portion of be capung he had to spend ten hours outdoors to capture 30 dragonflies. Meanwhile, some recipes had to be dropped because he simply could not find the raw ingredients.

“In 2012, I could still get eleven jubel in the paddy fields around here. In 2013 and 2014, I went to numerous villages in Badung and Tabanan in search of jubel and returned empty handed,” he said, referring to the water bug larvae that usually gather near rice field embankments.

The book, therefore, has not only revealed the nearly forgotten treasures of the island’s culinary world, as a growing number of younger Balinese become more comfortable with the taste and convenience offered by modern foods, western and oriental alike, but, more importantly, also reflects the impact of modern agriculture on the tiny island.

“The absence of jubel and the decreasing number of dragonflies clearly shows the destructive power of pesticides and insecticides. It has destroyed the natural food chain. By using chemical agents, our farmers have managed to produce more rice but in the process they have also inadvertently killed

other sources of food,” he pointed out.

The book was the first step in the 48-yearold chef’s campaign to bring these traditional recipes to the dining table of the contemporary Balinese.

“Who knows, they might love these foods and eventually try to find a way to protect and conserve the natural food source associated with them.”

He then excused himself and returned a few minutes later with two bottles of palm toddy.

The government’s recent prohibition on beerselling at warung and convenience stores had had one positive impact, he said. It forced the local youngsters to familiarize themselves with locally produced toddy and arak rice wine.

“You should try this. The toddy here is still harvested in a traditional way. The harvesters strike the palm trunk lightly and speak with the tree before harvesting the sap.”

It was a fine toddy with the perfect balance of sourness and a slight nuance of sweetness.

It was also the second most formative item in Go Gonk’s culinary education. The first was observing his grandmother collecting roadside berries and transforming them into a delicious sambal.

“She could take the simplest ingredient and turn it into tasty fare. I want to be like her.”

Go Gonk was educated at the prestigious Bali Tourism School before taking a job on a cruise liner. The job gave him the chance to visit 33 countries, sample exotic foods, widen his culinary interest and forge his commitment to promote traditional Balinese foods.

Yet, it was his love for toddy that equipped him with the deep knowledge of traditional Balinese foods. He is a member of one of the

local sekeha tuak (toddy drinking group) and he recalled that traditional foods had always been a permanent fixture of the sekeha’s regular meetings.

“In the meeting all the members would bring lagaran [snacks], from fried nuts to fried jubel, to be shared with other members as we gulped down the toddy. We exchanged recipes as well as the method to collect the raw ingredients. The older members of the sekeha shared recipes from their families and that’s how I learned.”

During his free time he visited sekeha tuak in other regencies, usually returning home drunk and with a new recipe in his pocket.

“Throughout those years I learned from sekeha tuak, village elders and religious ceremony chefs in various parts of Bali and they imprinted upon me that our food is not only nourishment for our body but is also a symbol of our people’s ecological and spiritual teachings.”

He is now passing that knowledge on to the participants of his cooking classes, as well as the local youths in Mengwi. Through the book he aims to reach a wider audience. The first chapter discusses the philosophical role of the Belawa (Balinese chef) and the influence of the Siwa-Buddha belief on the specific taste of traditional Balinese food.

“We are still a long way from making Balinese food in a similar league to, let’s say, French food. We have to educate the Balinese that hygiene and presentation are crucially important. Slaughtering a pig on the roadside and cleansing its guts into a nearby ditch is a practice that we must leave behind.”

May 15, 2015

9

Sight

Gili Air

“An island getaway on your doorstep�

Words and photos Wira Wjoga

T

he Gili isles rose to fame some time ago and the biggest and busiest of the three islands, Gili Trawangan, has been recognized as a place for travellers seeking an alternate party scene, island-style.

Less is known, however, of its smaller and less touristy neighbor, Gili Air. I first found out about Gili Air and its diving scene one New Year holiday some years ago.

My first thought was that it would be a calm island getaway in a turtle-rich dive area, and I often thought of going back to dive with the turtles.

Playing host to a turtle conservation program, the waters off the Gili isles swarm with turtles of all sizes and there is stunning 30

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May 15, 2015

meter plus visibility in some seasons, making it a perfect spot for an underwater photographer to take pictures of these adorable sea creatures.

With so many long weekends this month, I decided to spend a short, relaxing time swimming with the turtles. When I dived there, however, I was pleasantly surprised to find other rare critters, rarely found anywhere else, greeting me on the dive.

Taking four dives in the area, we saw at least one turtle on every dive, as well as mantis shrimp, porcelain crabs, eels and ghost pipefish. What made our dives so special, though, was getting to see mating mandarin fish and the elusive weedy scorpionfish.

On land, there are many activities offered

and even the most basic are exciting. Take a leisurely ride around the island on a bicycle, feel like a local riding in a horse cart, and enjoy a stunning sunrise and sunset (yes, both) on different sides of the island.

How to get there: Fly to Ngurah Rai International Airport in Bali and take a boat ride of approximately 1.5 hours from Serangan, Padang Bai or Sanur to the Gili isles. (Some boats have a direct route to Gili Air.) The dive spot: Gili Air has shore and boat dives with a great water clarity in some seasons and approximately 15 m at any other time. Most of the dive sites have a relatively gentle, or no, current.

Soul

Green initiative

“Hotels’ and restaurants’ commitment toward a cleaner and healthier Bali” WORDS DESY NURHAYATI PHOTOS COURTESY OF PADMA RESORT LEGIAN

T

he rapid growth of tourism has triggered uncontrolled development, which in turn has caused environmental degradation.

Tourism often blamed for having a significant negative impact on nature, as well as being wasteful and consuming excessive amounts of resources.

Amid the island’s ongoing waste and energy problems, a number of green initiatives have been implemented by hotels and restaurants to establish a clean and healthy environment, in line with the commitment of tourism stakeholders to implement sustainable tourism.

Among these projects is a recycling program targeting used cooking oil generated by the local tourist industry. The used cooking oil is collected and processed into biodiesel.

Initiated by a local NGO, Yayasan Lengis Hijau, the project has been running for two years with some 100 hotels and restaurants participating, either by selling used cooking oil from their kitchens to the NGO or buying the biodiesel for their daily operations.

Turning used cooking oil into biodiesel reduces its circulation in the market, which is desirable as it can both endanger health and contaminate the environment if dumped into waterways or soil.

A liter of oil poured into a watercourse can pollute up to 1,000 500-liter water tanks, also obstructing drains, creating odors and increasing the cost of water treatment.

The biodiesel produced from used cooking oil is sold to industries as an environmentally friendly fuel that contributes to a reduction in greenhouse gas emissions.

“This is the most feasible solution. Used cooking oil is a renewable resource that can be easily recycled into valuable and eco-friendly biodiesel,” said Lengis Hijau director Endra Setyawan.

To show appreciation for their contribution to the provincial administration’s Bali Clean and Green program, participating hotels and restaurants received certificates from the administration on Earth Day, the second anniversary of Lengis Hijau, last month.

Padma Resort Bali at Legian, which shares a similar vision to Lengis Hijau, was one of the recipients and has been participating since the project commenced.

“We want to contribute to saving the environment from oil pollution and minimize

the circulation of used cooking oil, which is dangerous to human health,” said Yudith Kirana, marketing and communications executive.

Every week, the resort hands over some 360 liters of oil to Lengis Hijau, for a sale price of Rp 2,000 (15 US cents) per liter.

Participating in this project benefits the resort, as it doesn’t have to save the used cooking oil or find another safe way to dispose of it. At the same time, it also helps support Lengis Hijau to save the environment.

Another participant is Bale Udang Mang Engking Restaurant. Participating since June 2013, the restaurant aims to implement the Balinese concept of Tri Hita Karana, which includes “enhancing relationships with the environment”.

Thanks to support from these participating hotels and restaurants, as of April this year, Lengis Hijau had been able to produce more than 400,000 liters of biodiesel for use by industries in Bali.

May 15, 2015

11

Savor

F

or those seeking an authentic fivestar Indonesian dining experience in a magnificent location, the RitzCarlton, Bali’s newly opened signature Indonesian restaurant, Bejana, with its panoramic views, is definitely the place to go.

This comfortable and stylish Balineseinspired cliff-top restaurant uses broad-leafed plants and tall wooden pillars, along with subdued lighting, to create a warm and relaxed ambience and an intimate experience for couples and small groups.

The master in Bejana’s kitchen, chef Made Suriana, has created a remarkable menu and offers diners a gastronomic voyage stopping off at many of the nation’s islands for inspiration.

A popular option on the menu is the risjtaffel, which offers multiple dishes in three courses that traverse the nation.

Although maintaining the traditional flavors, the spiciness has been reduced - but not eliminated, to enable those unfamiliar with Indonesian food to try it. A selection of six different sambal, or chili condiments, including Balinese sambal matah, the tomato-based samabal bajak and chopped green chilies in soy sauce, are provided so that diners can make the food as spicy as they like and adjust the taste to their preference.

The presentation remains traditional in style, served from a range of earthenware dishes, with a choice of red, white or yellow rice. Starters range from the asinan Jakarta (pickled seasonal fruit), to soto pesomol, which is a delectable spicy, coconut-based broth from

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May 15, 2015

Bejana Words and photos Chris O’Connor

Betawi that is chock full of fish, scallops and mussels.

The main course includes ayam bakar Taliwang, a Lombok dish of grilled spring chicken with chili and lime, and barramundi in the North Sulawesi ikan woku. The Kalimantanstyle sambal udang (curried prawns) is especially moreish.

A plate of traditional Indonesian sweets is the final temptation in this sumptuous feast.

Drinks are also inspired by time-honored Indonesian flavors and pair well with the spicy Indonesian food. The ice tea includes star anise and passion fruit, while the homemade traditional Bajigur (pandan, ginger, lemongrass, palm sugar, cloves and coconut milk) has a splash of Myers’s Rum and Malibu, making for a novel and delicious cocktail.

There are many traditional favorites on offer at Bejana, taken from all around the colorful and diverse archipelago, and the excellent, authentic food makes this a must-do dining experience for lovers of fine Indonesian cuisine.

“A gastronomic voyage through Indonesia”

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Private piano lessons for kids. Contact Steven, 0813 393 21615 / 089 651 434612

Get your website on Google’s first page for more customers. Call/SMS 0811 380 151

Private yoga lessons: in a studio, in a villa or in the comfort of your home. British teacher. All levels catered for.

0817 470 3070

Relaxing Thai massage for women. Contact: 0822 3760 3026

Swimming, private courses. For more information please call 0818 054 19300

Relaxing yoga, private classes. For more info, please call 0822 3760 302

Web design, SEO, and video editing service. Portfolio : www.creativewebdesign.com Contact : 0819 9938 5206

Saxophone or guitar lessons at any level. SMS 0813 398 07682 Doug.

Wood & composite decking specialist & carpenter. Email : woodworking.bali@yahoo.co.id 081999857305

Soap-making class, 4 hours, Rp 1 mill. Call 0813 287 16169, kesambibali@gmail.com

www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertising photography.

Island Buzz Bali’s first AntiGravity® Yoga classes Unfurling from the tropical jungle foliage adjacent to the sacred Ayung River, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan’s new Dharma Shanti Yoga Bale extends the resort’s wellness offerings with an uplifting program of meditation, life talks and yoga – including Bali’s first AntiGravity® Yoga classes.

The lotus petal-inspired structure is constructed entirely from sustainable local bamboo. Each hand-carved pole used in the construction of the bale is unique. Curving and tapering in different ways, pieces were chosen for their structural integrity, smooth texture or individual beauty. The radial clusters of soaring bamboo columns are bound by rope, and hand-whittled pegs are used in place of nails to connect sections. The result is an incredibly durable structure that utilizes bamboo’s natural strengths.

At the heart of the Dharma Shanti Yoga Bale experience are daily 60-minute AntiGravity® Yoga classes, created and founded by former gymnast and dancer Christopher Harrison. A dynamic and groundbreaking “flying” technique, it uses bespoke hammocks to support bodies of all ages and abilities into enhanced and inverted postures to relieve stress, encourage healthy blood circulation, and have fun.

In addition to AntiGravity® Yoga, the Dharma Shanti Yoga Bale offers guests 16 complimentary yoga and meditation classes each week. A daily 7 a.m. class of sunrise, power or laughter yoga is complemented by the popular Life Talk series: a program of talks hosted by resident Wellness Mentor Ibu Fera to guide guests toward inner peace, happiness, stress management and compassion.

Mantra takes over Chedi Sakala The former Chedi Sakala has recently been rebranded as Mantra Sakala Resort & Beach Club. This 2.4 hectare site, located in Tanjung Benoa on the Nusa Dua peninsula, is close to Bali Collection shopping center and only a 30-minute drive from the airport and Kuta Beach.

Mantra Group CEO, Bob East, said he was pleased to add a high quality resort to the Group’s Indonesian portfolio. “Mantra Sakala Resort and Beach Club, Bali, is a great endorsement for the Mantra brand. [...] we have focused on quality rather than quantity and will continue with this approach on future development opportunities.”

Each residence at the resort has a boutique kitchenette, Illy coffee machine and mini wine refrigerator.

Resort facilities include two swimming pools, a wellness spa, health club and lagoon bar, restaurants, beach club, large conference facilities and kids club.

An excellent restaurant offers French-style cuisine, while a stylish beach club provides guests and day visitors with access to an extensive selection of water sports. A variety of international bites and a creative mix of contemporary cocktails and entertainment are also available at the beach club.

An on-site spa provides an ideal space for personalized health and wellness getaways.

Mantra Sakala also provides 6,000 square feet of flexible meeting space catering for up to 650 people, theater style. All meeting rooms feature modern audio-visual equipment, soundproof walls, Wi-Fi Internet access and all the amenities and services needed for productive and stress-free event.

May 15, 2015

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Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com Sunset Beach Bar & Grill Every Saturday Chill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality.

Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888

ART & CULTURE CORNER Denpasar

Theme Night Buffet Dinner Every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday Enjoy our finest cuisine with a different theme every night Patra Jasa Bali Resort & Villas Jl. Ir. H. Juanda, Kuta : (0361) 9351161 ext. 8620 Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1.

Meads Boutique Villas Hotel Jl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa : (0361) 776604

W presents

May 21 Arjun Vagale From 10 p.m. - 4 a.m.

Woobar at W Retreat Bali Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4738106

Events Calendar of Events

Colors of Celebes April 15 - May 15 Enjoy Sulawesi cuisine and music at The Stones.

Renowned for fish and spices, this is only for those with bold taste buds!

The Long Rice Table The Stones Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta : (0361) 3005888 Food Revolution Day May 15 Starts 3 p.m.

A global day of action to make a stand for good, essential cooking skills. Visit Flux for our food styling and shooting workshop!

Flux Lifeground Jl. Raya Kerobokan No. 88, Kerobokan Hubud: Photographers Meet Up May 20 From 7 – 9 p.m.

Share experiences and technical skills with peer-to-peer portfolio reviews!

Hubud Jl. Monkey Forest No. 88, Ubud Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m.

Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 Kul Kul Farm Bali Open Day Every Thursday From 8 - 11 a.m.

Come and join the fun of sharing farm duties, workshops, etc.

Kul Kul Farm Bali Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Br. Saren, Abiansemal, Badung E-mail: kul@kulkulfarm.com Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday Live Music Every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday Salsa Dance Every Sunday Made’s Warung Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 755297 Midnight Circus May 15 Starts 10 p.m.

Stunt-orientated artists, from fire jugglers to neon dancers and aerial acrobats.

Mirror Jl. Petitenget No. 106, Seminyak

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May 15, 2015

Kecak & Fire Dance Everyday Starts 6 p.m.

Uluwatu Temple Jimbaran, Badung : (0361) 9041163 Traditional & Modern Performances Every day (Except Wednesday) Starts 8 p.m.

Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza No. 8X, Kuta : (0361) 762750

Waroeng Pasta Grage Homey restaurant specializing in pasta.

Jl. Pantai Brawa, Canggu : (0361) 8446472

Denpasar

Jimbaran

Calonarang Dance Every Thursday, Sunday Starts 7:30 p.m.

Mawang village, Ubud

Kerobokan

Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Every Friday Starts 7 p.m.

Bentuyung Village, Ubud

Paper Planes Enjoy peranakan food in our vintage garden house.

Jl. Danau Batur Raya No. 22B, Taman Griya, Jimbaran : 081238311818 Bumbak Coffee Authentic Umalas coffee.

Jl. Bumbak No. 170, Kerobokan Earth Café Vegetarian meals served in a very organic way Jl. Laksmana No. 99 Oberoi, Kuta : (0361) 736645

Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about!

Jl. Hanoman, Ubud. : (0361) 974244 info@studioperak.com

Bo$$ Man Only for serious burger bingeing, created with unique flavors, ready to shake your taste buds.

Jl. Kayu Cendana No. 8B, Seminyak : 0812 391 67070 Pica Serving up delicious South American treats in an intimate setting.

Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud : (0361) 971660

Activities

Rafting Sobek Bali Largest transport network in Bali. Comfortable, airconditioned vehicles linked by radio to monitor client journeys.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 257, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar : (0361) 729016

Tour & Travel Agent

Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music.

Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures.

Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220

Pulaki Temple Located in Pulaki village, Seririt, Singaraja regency, in north Bali. Just three hours’ drive from Bali’s airport or a one-hour drive from Singaraja.

Uluwatu Temple Pura Uluwatu, one of six key temples believed to be Bali’s spiritual pillars, is renowned for its magnificent location on the top of a steep cliff approximately 70 meters above sea level, as well as its macaque population.

Located at Uluwatu, Pecatu, Jimbaran

Waterpark Waterbom Bali More than 21 world-class waterslides and leisure facilities for all ages. Located in the heart of Kuta.

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta : (0361) 755676 Email: info@waterbom-bali.com New Kuta Green Park Young family recreation with a water park and outbound activities.

Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Pecatu, Kuta Selatan : (0361) 8484777

Paragliding Bali Paragliders Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 12 A / 99 Blok A5, Kuta : (0361) 704 769 Email: info@baliparagliders.com www.baliparagliders.com

Yoga

Courses Dance Lessons Dance for life.

Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x : (0361) 7452045

Goa Lawah Goa Lawah, also known as the Bat Cave Temple, is located on the main road between Denpasar and Candidasa in Pesinggahan village, Klungkung.

Legong Dance Every Friday Starts 7:30 p.m.

Balerung Srinertya Waditra (Balerung Mandera) Br. Teruna, Peliatan, Ubud : (0361) 972124 or 970503

Kuta

Ubud

Besakih Temple Besakih Temple, Bali’s Mother Temple, is perched 1,000 meters high on the southwestern slope of Mount Agung.

Ubud

Warung Laklak Men Gabrug Enjoy real traditional Balinese sweets and cakes.

Jl. Nusa Indah No. 64, Denpasar

Seminyak

Temples

Kuta

canggu

Bread Basket Sells excellent homemade bread. Open for breakfast and lunch.

Jl. Danau Tamblingan No. 51, Sanur : (0361) 3688778

Wayang Kulit Every Saturday Starts 8 p.m.

Oka Kartini Jl. Raya Ubud

Jimbaran

Food & Drinks

Sanur

Ramayana Dance Every Tuesday Starts 7:30 p.m.

Puri Ubud, Jl. Raya Ubud

Barong & Keris Dance Everyday Starts 9 a.m.

Jl. Waribang No. 11 Kesiman, Denpasar : (0361) 224596

Perama Tour & Travel Bali, Lombok, Flores, all over Indonesia.

Easy and safe at a reasonable price, all for your convenience.

Head Office Jl. Legian No. 39, Kuta : (0361) 751551, 751875, 750808 www.peramatour.com

Spa Eastern Garden Martha Tilaar Spa Luxurious, holistic traditional spa.

Jl. Camplung Tanduk No. 5A, Seminyak : (0361) 731648

Bikram Yoga Istana Kuta Galleria Blok VL No. 12 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta : (0361) 769040 Manik Organik Yoga Jl. Danau Tamblingan No. 85, Sanur : (0361) 8553380

Trekking Bali Trekking Tour Explore Bali with experienced guides and savor unforgettable moments. : 0878 618 63656 www.balitrekkingtour.com

Where to go

The Parlour Yard Sale

Wild About Yoga

1

A 3-day yoga and meditation retreat for rejuvenation and reinvigoration with an experienced yoga teacher. : 0818 053 56147

May 16-17 begins at 2 p.m.

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 15 XX, Seminyak

Menjangan Island SINGARAJA LOVINA

Pulaki Gilimanuk

Mt. Sangiang

Mt. Batur Mt. Musi

West Bali National Park

Besakih Mt. Agung

NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi

AMLAPURA Sangeh

BANGLI

Ubud

5 KLUNGKUNG

TABANAN

GIANYAR Tanah Lot Kerobokan

3

DENPASAR

Canggu Seminyak 1 Legian 4 Kuta Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

Jimbaran Pura Luhur Uluwatu

Sanur

Benoa

Pura Batu Madan

2

Penida Island

Nusa Dua

MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery Bali

French Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment.

Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan : (0361) 4737 888 E-mail: info@metisbali.com www.metisbali.com

3

4 Couples and Family Activities at Le Jardin Stay at Le Jardin Villas and be pampered with local Balinese luxury.

Jl. Sarinande No. 7, Seminyak : (0361) 730165 E-mail: info@lejardinvillas.com

Kecak & Fire Dance

Daily starts at 6 p.m.

Uluwatu Temple. Bali Hello Travel : (0361) 951958

May 15, 2015

5

15

Sight

Sea salt farming

in

Pesinggahan

“Guardians of heritage and knowledge” Words and photos Bram Setiawan

E

very day, 60-year-old Nyoman Warta starts working on his sea salt field before dawn, not finishing until the afternoon. This elderly man seems to enjoy his daily toil as a traditional sea salt farmer on Pesinggahan Beach in Klungkung.

He views the scorching sun as his best friend, warmly touching his darkened, wrinkled skin.

Born in the adjacent village of Kusamba, Warta moved to Pesinggahan village in 1980 after getting married. Making sea salt has been his family business for many years.

For a veteran like Warta, the centuries-old, traditional, manual sea salt making process is quite simple; it is a skill he acquired from his parents.

However, skill is not enough. Making sea salt involves hard labor, physical endurance, patience and perseverance, none of which is

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May 15, 2015

a problem for Warta.

Long days of toil under the hot sun are Warta’s daily norm. He has to hand-carry the seawater from natural ponds and pour it into palungan, where the water evaporates; it is absolutely hard labor.

“I love the sun. I cannot produce high quality sea salt without full sun shine. Sea salt is an important marine resource that any human being can get quite easily,” he said, adding that all the tools used to store the seawater and process the sea salt were made of coconut tree trunks.

On sunny days, Warta can produce around 10 kilograms of sea salt. “Processing and harvesting sea salt, so it’s ready for consumption, can be very challenging during the rainy season.” When the weather is cloudy or rainy, Warta works as a

fisherman instead.

“I go fishing at sea,” he commented.

Warta sells his sea salt in local markets in Klungkung, Gianyar, Karangasem, even as far as Denpasar. “A kilogram of sea salt is sold for Rp 15,000 [US$1.14],” he said.

These hardworking sea salt farmers, like Warta, are genuine custodians of a wealth of traditional knowledge about their natural environment - ranging from their extraordinary knowledge of reading weather patterns, predicting sea currents, to changes in the marine ecosystem and resources.

“I really hope that people - modern people - understand the richness and beauty of our sea and its abundant resources,” he said, smiling as he watched the sunset - the sign that he had completed his working day.