Bali buzz #60 by Bali Buzz by The Jakarta Post

Vol.2 no.8/october 29-november 4, 2015

ubud &writers readers festival 2015

LovePink and Bali Pink Ribbon ‘Megelicik Qur’an’ Herbalife Bali Int’l Triathlon

from THE editor

Writers Festival

Cover Photo: Courtesy of UWRF

This weekend, Ubud will be buzzing with literary events organized by the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, which in the past decade has grown into a premier, world-class event. This year’s festival has suffered some surprising glitches as the local authorities asked the organizer to drop several panel discussions deemed too sensitive for the current political climate in Indonesia. The majority of the festival programs, fortunately, remain intact. This edition’s cover story focuses on the festival’s highlights and noted authors. Hopefully, book lovers will swarm to Ubud this weekend and show their support for this inspiring festival. — The Editor

Ubud Writers & Readers 08 Festival 2015

Contents 10 Herbalife Bali Int’l Triathlon

LovePink and Bali Pink Ribbon

06 ‘Megelicik Qur’an’

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October 29, 2015

Savor

Arang Sate Bar, Ubud “Satay with a side order of style” Words and photos Chris O’Connor

here’s an innovative, upmarket way of enjoying your satay these days, if you’re in Ubud, anyway! Arang Sate Bar is one of the town’s most intriguing new eateries and presents an extensive menu of delicious satay in stylish surroundings. The restaurant’s traditional Balinese-style exterior blends well into its surroundings, but inside the style and mood changes with geometric tiled floors, minimalist and comfortable seating options and a mix of stone and metalwork that combine to create a chic dining space that encourages you to hang out with friends and family. Situated almost directly opposite Ubud Palace — at the top of Jl. Monkey Forest turn left and it is next to the fountain — it’s actually quite easy to be distracted and pass

it. But be warned, miss Arang Sate Bar at your peril, because inside awaits a gastronomic treat. The menu has been created with some serious panache. The greens, vegetables, herbs and fruits are sourced from local organic farmers, as are the duck, pork and chicken, while the red meats are imported directly from New Zealand. Featuring single sticks such as oyster mushroom with soy ginger and kaffir lime, tofu with miso rub, lamb balls stuffed with blue cheese served with soy pineapple glaze and a sprig of lime and the slightly zesty soy ginger pork belly, there is something for everyone. Vegetarian, fish and meat single satay sticks can be ordered from the all-day menu from as little as Rp 20,000 (US$1.46) per skewer, or you can try a hot stone taster

menu from Rp 160,000 providing six different skewers served with rice and a mixture of chili condiments. The all-day menu also boasts a selection of sides, plus sharing and small plates. The sesame chicken wings drenched in a rich caramel garlic soy sauce are a must-try. The dinner menu adds some excellent vegan and vegetarian options, such as the Trio Vegan Jajan served with field greens or rice, plus salads like the Roast Beet Tempeh Crunch. Typical of the quality and presentation of the classic dishes is the Lamb Sate Gule Domba. Served in a low rimmed earthenware plate, the sticks are crammed with tender New Zealand lamb, topped off with red onion, chili

and shallots served in a light curry broth with cherry tomato and melinjo crackers. The extensive drinks menu features a range of wines, beer, spirits and non-alcoholic beverages but the standout items are probably the cocktails and mocktails. The spiced citrus Mojit, Earl’s Pim Pom and the Tamachillo Chai are available by the glass or pitcher, while the Mandailing Espresso Martini and the range of mocktails are by the glass. Arang Sate Bar opens at noon and last seating is at 11 p.m. There is a roadside terrace, perfect to watch the world go past; indoor seating alongside the bustling kitchen and bar and further room on the upstairs terrace. Give it a try; your taste buds will thank you! October 29, 2015

Soul

ealth knowledge is important for women and knowing and understanding your breasts can save your life. October is when many people around the globe observe Breast Cancer Awareness month. To raise awareness in Bali and to educate women in particular on breast cancer and its impact on their productive life, LovePink and Bali Pink Ribbon held a joint Fun Walk in Nusa Dua last weekend. Breast cancer is a silent killer, but awareness and active health screening can make all the difference. However, access to accurate and reliable information about female cancers, aggravated by geographic and socioeconomic conditions on the island, have led to skyrocketing numbers of women, many still young, not realizing they have breast cancer until it is too late. Many women are reluctant to seek professional help and believe that cancer treatment is unaffordable and the illness is a certain death sentence.

October 29, 2015

LovePink and Bali Pink Ribbon “Fun walk to raise awareness” Words and Photos Courtesy of LovePink

Maintaining a healthy lifestyle and early detection through annual screening and self-breast examination, or SADARI (Periksa Payudara Sendiri), are vital ways for women to prevent or manage breast cancer. Bali Pink Ribbon and LovePink established their collaboration in 2014 and work handin-hand in Bali to campaign for breast cancer awareness among Indonesian women. The two organizations also share information and references to help women obtain accurate

information on breast cancer. Established in 2012 by Shanti Persada and Madelina Mutia, two breast cancer survivors, LovePink was initially a group of “warriors” and “survivors” who had fought and survived this deadly disease. In 2014, LovePink became Yayasan Daya Dara Foundation and initiated major activities to encourage women to lead a healthy life, actively organizing campaigns and charity activities, such as road shows and educative

activities, in Bandung, Surabaya and other cities in Indonesia. It also set up an outreach program, early detection campaign and other education for women on breast cancer. LovePink will soon launch a mobile application called “LovePink Breasties” for Android and iOs users to support cancer survivors, and also has a group chat on Whatsapp and Telegram, as well as its mobile Breasty Van to provide health care and USG services on the road.

October 29, 2015

Sight

‘Megelicik Qur’an’ D

ozens of residents of Kampung Bugis in the Serangan district in South Denpasar gathered in front of their village’s largest mosque, Assyuhada. They had just finished performing the afternoon prayer. The entire village was enthusiastic about holding an annual ritual called Megelicik Qur’an, the parade of an old, sacred Koran as a means to appease negative forces that could affect the village and its people. This centuries-old tradition was held on Oct. 22. Before the ritual started, the villagers prayed together. Then the old Koran, wrapped in a white cloth, was carried on the head of a village resident. Two people accompanied the Koran bearer, carrying two large flags — the Indonesian redand-white flag and a green flag with the Arabic words La Ilaha Illallah written on it, which literarily means “There is no God but Allah.” “The two flags symbolize a harmonious life — that Indonesian Muslims should live in harmony with their Muslim brothers and sisters and people of different faiths within one nation,” explained Haji Mansyur, an influential leader in the village. The 17th century Koran is taken out of the mosque at certain times of the year, including in the month of Muharram, according to the Arabic calendar, which this year falls in October.

October 29, 2015

“A ritual and prayer to eliminate negative forces” Words and Photos Bram Setiawan

The tradition of carrying the Koran around the village stems a time when a strange disease hit the village. “The village’s leaders received a spiritual sign through their dreams, showing them they should perform the megelicik ritual every Muharram,” Mansyur said. The Megelicik Qur’an procession starts from Assyuhada mosque and heads toward the north of the village, stopping in the four corners of the village to perform the call to prayer. The procession circles the village three times while the bearer and his escorts hum shalawat, or praise to Prophet Muhammad. “Adzan, or the call to prayer, is aimed at warding off disturbing things and negative elements that might enter the village,” said Mansyur. About 50 years ago, Megelicik Qur’an ran for three days, from Muharram 7 to 9, and all the villagers would hold a thanksgiving gathering to pray and eat together at the mosque. “Today, we only hold the ritual for one day, on Muharram 9. The Koran is carried around

the village three times in one day,” he noted. Indra Radit, 10, a young village resident, said he was happy to be able to carry the historic Koran. “Every year, I take part in the procession. This is the first year that I have been allowed to carry the Koran.” Mansyur said there was no age limit for the Koran bearer. “In the past, only the old leaders of the village were allowed to carry it. Now, young people are encouraged to do so.” Historically, the existence of the old Koran in the village is recorded as coinciding with the arrival of the Bugis people from South Sulawesi in Bali. They fled their hometown of Ujung Pandang, now Makassar, because they refused to surrender to the Dutch occupation. Other historical evidence is the old tomb of Syekh Haji Mu’min. “He was the first Bugis leader to arrive here in Bali,” said Mansyur. The old Koran was once taken to the Istiqlal Festival in Jakarta; based on scholarly study, it was written on wood-fiber paper, while the cover is made of camel skin.

October 29, 2015

Ubud writers & readers festival

“17,000 Islands of Imagination”

October 29, 2015

Words Chris O’Connor Photos Courtesy of UWRF

Cover Story

he prestigious and highly acclaimed Ubud Writers & Readers Festival (UWRF) once again opens its cover this week with this year’s evocative theme being “17,000 Islands of Imagination”. Despite the widely reported threats and the banning by the authorities of a small number of festival events relating to the attempted coup blamed on the Indonesian Communist Party and its aftermath, including panel discussions, an art exhibition, the book launch of The Act Of Living and the screening of the critically acclaimed The Look of Silence by Joshua Oppenheimer, the organizers will present an epic literary journey and hope for record attendance. The UWRF is the showcase of the notfor-profit foundation Yayasan Mudra Swari Saraswati. The foundation supports the creative needs of individuals and the local community and, via revenue gained from ticket sales, the festival provides the foundation with vital support to pursue its creative, educational and youth-focused missions. The foundation has its roots in the first Bali bombings and was conceived by co-founder Janet DeNeefe as a project to help the healing process from the atrocity. The UWRF is now into its 12th year and will be held at venues in and around Ubud, primarily the NEKA museum, Indus Restaurant, Taman Baca and Joglo@ Taman Baca, between Oct. 28 and Nov. 1. The festival has over 220 events spread across the five days, including the main program and special events, as well as fringe events such as the reading of Miguel de Cervantes’ 1605 epic Don Quixote by Goenawan Mohamad, one of Java’s foremost poets. Twenty-five different countries are represented, with over 165 artists, writers and thinkers contributing to the rich diversity of experiences and opinions that make the festival so appealing to both audiences and participants. Those confirmed to attend include Christina Lamb OBE and author and activist Rev. Mpho Tutu — daughter of Desmond Tutu — Carl Hoffman, the author of the New York Times bestselling Savage Harvest: A Tale Of Cannibals, Colonialism And Michael Rockefeller’s Tragic Quest For Primitive Art and Pulitzer Prize-winner Michael Chabon.

Other speakers include national and international authors and journalists such as Ayu Utami, Amanda Curtin, Cristian Encina, Anuradha Roy and Step Vaessen, who will participate in panel discussions, talks and intimate conversations held throughout the festival. Although only 12 years old, the UWRF is today at the heart of Indonesia’s rising literary awareness and growing cultural sensitivity. Before the last minute intervention, DeNeefe had said: “This year we feature so many established authors alongside a great and diverse line-up of emerging stars. Our film program will only showcase Indonesian works and we have added some tasty culinary events featuring food from across the archipelago too.” Her words still ring true and this year, the program is larger than ever and includes numerous topical panel discussions, talks and group discussions, as well as workshops, dining events, exhibitions and musical entertainment. Day one focuses on the youth program with poetry, writing and satirical workshops being held throughout the day aimed at improving the writing skills and literary understanding of young Indonesian students. The day will also see the launch of Patrick Walsh’s new book, Stormy, With A Chance Of Fried Rice — Twelve Months In Jakarta. However, it will be Oct. 29, when the festival’s heavyweights are revealed, with a program that includes at 10:15 a.m. Janet Steele and Andreas Harsono in “Journalism is my Religion”. The day also features art

exhibitions and several book launches, as well as a number of workshops and special events, including lunch with Rev. Mpho Tutu, who over a casual lunch will explore forgiveness, a concept she learned first-hand from her father Archbishop Desmond Tutu. Friday’s highlights will include the highly anticipated “In Short Order”, a discussion featuring Irish poet Joseph Woods, Sri Lankan Ashok Ferrey, Australian Abigail Ulman and Jakarta’s own Norman Erikson Pasaribu, who together will deliberate the merits and difficulties of creating short stories. On Oct. 31 at 4 p.m., visitors can join one of the potentially most emotional of all the special events with “My Year with Malala” presented by Christina Lamb. For nine months, Lamb spent a significant amount of time with “one of the bravest fighters I’ve ever met”, the young Pakistani activist Malala Yousafzai. Malala’s story gripped the world and served as a reminder of the violence women can face from religious fundamentalists. She was shot three times by the Taliban simply for advocating for female education and has since become youngest-ever Nobel Prize laureate. The event will be co-hosted by Step Vaessen, currently the Indonesia correspondent for Al Jazeera and perhaps best known in Indonesia for her intense interview with President Joko “Jokowi” Widodo. The final day is packed with discussions, launches, special events and workshops. Among the most intriguing is perhaps

“Telegraph Avenue”; co-hosted by Australian Broadcasting Corporation’s radio presenter Kate Evans, Pulitzer Prize-winner Michael Chabon will chart a journey through the vast galaxy of pop-culture references that have inspired his writing. For aspiring modern poets, Zohab Khan’s Poetry and Performance Workshop seems a must-do event. Khan is the current Australian Poetry Slam champion, he plays the didgeridoo and harmonica and is a solo performance artist. In his workshop, he will share confidencebuilding and writing techniques that enable participants to rapidly develop their writing and performing techniques. General pricing for the paid events is tiered to remain accessible to international, Indonesian and KITAS guests, while the special events can be booked separately at an additional cost. For more details and ticket information, visit the UWRF website at ubudwritersfestival.com.

October 29, 2015

Sport

Herbalife Bali Int’l Triathlon

“A sporting event heats the weekend at Nusa Dua” Words Ni Komang Erviani Photos Zul Trio Anggono

he sun had just risen when more than 1,300 professional and amateur athletes faced the challenge of the Herbalife Bali International Triathlon last Sunday. From 31 countries, including many from Indonesia, the runners had shown up to conquer a race course that extended from the InterContinental Bali Resort in Jimbaran to Nusa Dua. Australian athletes shone in the competition, with a clean sweep of best times to win both Olympic and sprint distances in both genders. Mitchell Robins, an Australian athlete living in the Philippines, registered the best time of 2:05:58 to win the Olympic distance triathlon in the male category. He was followed by Indonesian Oscar Feryanto in second place and Briton Edward Hawkins in third. Robins recently won Ironman 70.3 in Japan. In the Olympic distance triathlon female category, Australian Kylie Scholz won with a time of 2:43:37, followed by Briton Rossans Bille and Australian Cath Hood.

October 29, 2015

The Olympic distance comprised a 1.5-kilometer swim, a 40-km bike ride and a 10-km run. Robins said that he was really happy to participate in the seventh Bali triathlon for the first time. “It’s obviously fantastic. It’s great to be in Bali and it’s my first time to race here,” he said. He commented that the run course had been a challenge. “The run course is really hilly and hot; it’s a good challenge.” Meanwhile, Scholz also said that the event had been challenging. “It’s a busy, difficult course with running on the sand and in hills, dealing with traffic on the bike course, but it is a lot better than the previous year. It’s challenging, but it’s fun,” said Scholz, who participated in the Bali Triathlon for the second time. A sprint distance triathlon and 5-km fun run also took place; the sprint distance comprised a 500-meter swim, a 20km bike ride and a 5-km run. In this shorter triathlon, Australian Michael Varker took first place, followed by Indonesian Taufik Muhammad and Australian Peter Maclean. Meanwhile, in the female category,

Australian Ella Grace took first place, followed by Indonesian Tri Eka Sandiri and US national Christa Beveridge. Event organizer Brennan Lindner said he was glad that the Bali International Triathlon could be held this year, after it had had to be postponed last year because of timing problems related to the general election.

October 29, 2015

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Island Buzz Phil J. Reid joins Mercure Bali Legian Mercure Bali Legian Hotel, the new flagship property managed by accorhotels, has appointed Phil J. Reid to the position of general manager. With almost 20 years’ experience in the hospitality industry in London, Melbourne, Madrid and Jakarta, Reid will be entrusted with the task of taking the hotel to the pinnacle of Bali hotels. Reid said, “Backed by a great team, a fantastic product, a highly valued brand and with a certified track history in the industry, I am greatly optimistic that we can take Mercure Bali Legian to the top of the league in a competitive environment such as the one here in Bali.” After completing a Bachelor of Business (BBus) Degree at Victoria University in Melbourne specializing in Hotel Management and Psychology, Reid began his career in 1996 at The Savoy Hotel, London, which exposed him to a culture of high quality and service. He eventually joined accorhotels and worked at Sofitel Madrid Airport, Pullman Madrid, as well as several years as general manager at ibis Jakarta Slipi. Mercure Bali Legian Hotel has a strategic location with easy access to beaches, shopping and nightlife in Legian, Seminyak and Kuta.

October 29, 2015

Discover the artistry of Balinese textiles The Ritz-Carlton Bali has unveiled a half-day immersive journey exploring the rich history and artistry of Balinese textiles with the resort’s Sarong Concierge. Led by Tresna Dewi, the resort’s Sarong Concierge, the half-day journey unveils different kinds of Balinese textiles and their creation processes, as well as teaching proper sarong etiquette and taking in a cultural visit to a nearby Hindu temple. Admired for their beauty and pure artistry, kamen, in the Balinese language, are a length of colorful fabric wrapped and tied around the body, often referred to as sarong. These are worn for many different types of occasions, including religious ceremonies. Tresna, a highly-respected member of the local community, will showcase four kinds of fabric and take guests to an artisan workshop to see the behind-the-scenes production process of endek, the capital’s official cloth, from the threading and spinning, to dying and weaving. Tresna then demonstrates the etiquette of wearing a Balinese sarong and how to walk elegantly, taking guests to a nearby Balinese Hindu temple to see the beautiful décor and hand carvings, wearing their sarongs just like the locals do.

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Activities

Perama Tour & Travel Bali, Lombok, Flores, all over Indonesia. Easy and safe at a reasonable price, all for your convenience. Head Office Jl. Legian No. 39, Kuta : (0361) 751551, 751875, 750808 www.peramatour.com

Courses Dance Lessons Dance for life. Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x : (0361) 7452045 Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music. Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures. Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220 Sherrat Gallery/BCAC Surrealism painting and art class with Bruce Sherrat Jl. Raya Andong Gg. Sawah, Ubud (between Gangga Sukta and BSA cargo) : (0361) 978617 www.baliartclasses.com Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about! Jl. Hanoman, Ubud. : (0361) 974244 info@studioperak.com

Shopping Delta Dewata The first supermarket in Ubud Jl. Raya Andong No.14, Ubud : (0361) 973 049, 978 071

Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan, Phone (0361) 705454 Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu, Phone (0361) 7472303 Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 4729081

Bintang Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, Kuta Jl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud

Papaya Fresh Gallery Jl. Mertanadi, Kuta

Where to go Rock ‘N Run 2015

5 km fun run, 100% of donations will be used to support Bali Pink Ribbon. Nov. 1 Starts 6 a.m. Hard Rock Hotel Bali Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta : (0361) 761869 Email: marcom.bali@hardrockhotels.net www.bali.hardrockhotels.net

Spirit of Smiles Golf Tournament

Astrid Dahl & Made Budhiana

Oct. 31 Rp 1,900,000 per person for tournament fee and gala dinner at Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua. Bali National Golf Club, Nusa Dua : (0361) 3007 080 E-mail: H8151-GM2@accor.com

Painting Exhibition Oct. 15 – Nov. 15 Maya Sanur Resort & Spa Jl. Danau Tamblingan No. 89M, Sanur : (0361) 8497800

Menjangan Island SINGARAJA

LOVINA

Pulaki Gilimanuk

Mt. Sangiang

Mt. Batur Mt. Musi

West Bali National Park

Besakih Mt. Agung

NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi

AMLAPURA Sangeh

Ubud

BANGLI KLUNGKUNG

TABANAN

GIANYAR Tanah Lot Kerobokan

Present

Dish & That Beach Market BEACH

Oct. 31 Starts 9 a.m. Taman Bhagawan Jl. Pratama No.70, Nusa Dua Email: franciska@indomultimedia.co.id

MARKET

SEAF R O N T F L A V O U R S & F U N

DENPASAR 7 Canggu 5 Sanur Seminyak 3 Legian 6 Kuta 1

Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

Jimbaran Pura Luhur Uluwatu

Benoa

Pura Batu Madan

Penida Island

Nusa Dua

ENTRANCE FEE Adult IDR 50.000 (including IDR 25.000 F&B Voucher) Student IDR 20.000 (including IDR 10.000 F&B Voucher)

Find out more www.dishandthatbali.com +62823611667236 (Ciska) / +62361796174 info@dishandthatbali.com Sponsored by

Dish & That Ad The Jakarta Post 2.indd 1

10/27/15 3:37 PM

7 MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery Bali

Diwali Food Festival

Nov. 10 – 16 The L Hotel Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 8L, Seminyak : (0361) 894 7898 E-mail: fbd@thelhotels.com www.thelhotels.com

Tjakra 7 Spa

Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti No. 1, Legian : (0361) 762500 www.pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com

French Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment. Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan : (0361) 4737 888 E-mail: info@metisbali.com www.metisbali.com

October 29, 2015