Bali Buzz #64

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Vol.2 no.12/november 26-december 2, 2015

Festival Fair Day Pucak Manik waterfall Cycling for AIDS

the

calling


from THE editor

Ritual

Cover Photo: I Wayan Juniarta

Bali has numerous unique rituals, mostly related to Balinese Hinduism, a distinctive brand of Hinduism made up of elements of Hinduism, Buddhism and the indigenous belief system. These rituals offer both non-Balinese and visitors a valuable opportunity to gain an understanding of the Balinese perspectives and mindset. This weekend, Balinese Hindus will celebrate Saraswati and Banyupinaruh, two religious festivals that reveal the importance of knowledge and art, women and beauty, as well as water and purification, in the Balinese belief system. Libraries, bookstores, schools and the beaches are the best places for visitors to observe the ways the Balinese celebrate the day dedicated to the goddess of science and art. This edition’s cover story narrates the special ritual a Balinese Hindu layman must undertake to assume the status of a priest and divulges the significance of the guru-sisya (spiritual teacher-pupil) relationship in the Balinese Hinduism system of priesthood. — The Editor

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Contents

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05 Festival Fair Day

‘Papah biu’

07 Cycling for AIDS 08 The Calling 10 Eco-tourism Cameng: Artist turned 11 Wayan shopkeeper, philosopher at heart 12 Locavore Festival

PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA i Editorial and General Department Jl. Tukad Musi VI/17 Kav.1 Renon Denpasar Bali

(0361) 265 436, 265 437

Fax (0361) 223 698

Jpbali@indosat.net.id, advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com, promotionbali@thejakartapost.com

Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi

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Savor

Jamie’s Italian Kuta Beach “Jamie Oliver refreshes the menu”

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orld-renowned TV chef and quality food activist Jamie Oliver opened the doors to his popular restaurant, Jamie’s Italian Kuta Beach, in June this year. With a welcoming ambience, great food, tempting drinks and a fabulous location, this rustic eating spot has attracted the crowds and is a good choice for a post-surf drink with friends, a family meal or to hang out on vacation. As you would expect from Oliver’s wellpublicized campaigns to get healthy school meals for kids and to teach people to cook from scratch instead of buying processed ready meals and take-outs, he is very particular about sourcing the ingredients to be used in his restaurants. Where possible, the highest quality ingredients are purchased locally, having been checked first by Oliver’s team. This month, the menu has been refreshed with new dishes that have undergone a six-

Words Amanda O’Connor Photos Chris O’Connor

month trial in Jamie’s Italian branches in the UK, prior to being rolled out globally. Two new particular favorites are the Superfood Salad, a powerhouse of nutrition with vivid colors, contrasting textures and a spicy bite from the Moroccan harissa, that comprises grilled avocado, candied beets, pulses, grains, sprouting broccoli, cottage cheese, pomegranate and toasted seeds, and the nostalgic Roasted Heritage Carrot and Avocado Salad with spicy honey-roasted carrots, marinated feta, avocado, leafy radish, fennel, mint and toasted seeds with an orange and pomegranate dressing. Eating healthy has never tasted so good. If you prefer a salad with fewer vegetables, do try the Salmon Salad, which is packed with hot-smoked salmon, heritage beets, radish, fennel and creamy ricotta. On the more traditionally Italian side, the Honeycomb Cannelloni Three Ways, stuffed with eggplant and sun-dried tomato, pumpkin and ricotta and spinach in a

tomato sauce is delicious; the crab arancini with a citrusy yoghurt dressing makes a satisfying nibble and the Rigatoni Pomodoro is a hearty, classic dish that hits the spot. Of course, you can’t go wrong with a pizza at Jamie’s Italian; the Sicilian-style Chicken Pizzaiola with its sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella, chicken, olives, capers and oregano is a personal favorite. All the portions are generous and ideal for sharing, On the dessert menu, the new addition is the Orange Blossom Polenta cake, a light, moist, crumbly cake studded with candied fruit and served with crème fraîche and pomegranate. Fortunately, the divine pavlova, tangy lemon meringue cheesecake and Gennaro’s tiramisu all remain available. So if you’re in Kuta, why not call in to Jamie’s Italian Kuta Beach. They also have a set lunch menu with two courses for Rp 225,000 (US$16.60) and three courses for Rp 275,000 from noon until 5 p.m.

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Sight

‘Papah biu’ “The banana sheath battle” Words and photos Agung Parameswara

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ali is rich in traditions and ceremonies and many local communities have “war” rituals, such as the pandanus battle in Tenganan, Karangasem, and the fire war and tipat bantal battle in Mengwi, Badung. Bangli regency also has a unique battle tradition: papah biu (banana sheath) — a centuries-old ritual involving hundreds of youths in Pengotan village. This ritual battle is held on the full moon night of the sixth month of the Balinese lunar calendar, which falls in conjunction with the celebrations for the old Ida Batara Dalem Pingit temple. Every young man in the village is required to participate in papah biu and is equipped with a 50-centimeter long banana sheath as a weapon. Jro Wayan Kopok, village head of Pengotan, explained that there were no strict rules applied in the papah biu battle. Participants were allowed to hit their “enemies” with the banana sheaths anywhere on their bodies.

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Afterward, the young men were covered in bruises, but rarely felt any pain. “Papah biu is also known as the Baris Babuang dance, a sacred dance that has been passed down for generations.” Prior to the battle, the village’s elderly residents open the ritual by performing this distinctive dance close to midnight, divided into four groups. When the dance reaches its peak, hundreds of young men follow the dancers and start the banana sheath war. The fight resembles a massive brawl as these young men put all their energy into attacking and hitting their enemies. “This ritual is presented to the almighty and is a way to tighten our communal bond,” the village head said. The ritual, he said, was likely connected to Tuluk Biu temple on Gunung Abang in Kintamani. “There is no historical evidence to reveal the connection, but we are sure that the temples in Pengotan and Kintamani have a strong connection.”


Soul

Festival Fair Day “Sharing a little bit of love” Words and Photos Courtesy of Solemen

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he sky was clear and bright when dozens of happy children gathered at Festival Fair Day, held at SPICE early learning center in Seminyak on Nov. 21. The event was an outstanding collaboration between two organizations — SPICE (an acronym for social, physical, inspirational, creative early learning) and Solemen, a charity organization that helps the disadvantaged in Bali and operates with heart and soul. The person behind the collaboration was Jolena William, SPICE’s playground coordinator, who was eager to bring the two thriving movements together. William organized the festival to create a fun day for 10 young children with physical disabilities at SPICE, who teamed up with children from Solemen, their “Solebuddies”. William and her team put together beautiful themed decorations and entertainment, while Solemen volunteer Barb Somerville played a key part in bringing the ideas to life by painting and cutting large sheets of cardboard to make glittery pillars that read Festival Fair Day, hanging bunting from tress and decorating tables with skirting and balloons. The SPICE school grounds were transformed into a kids’ wonderland. The local community came together to

contribute their talents, including a magician, face painter, balloon artists, as well as Bali Bird Park and Finger Skateboard. Five young ladies from Anila Tails also sang some all-time favorites from Disney cartoons while dressed as mermaids. A varied bazaar had a large number of items on sale that enticed the visitors, with Gelato Factory, Mr. Ice, cold drinks and Solemen’s partner, Bootstrap Cold Brew Coffee, all a must on the hot day. A surprise visit came from Solemen Ambassador model and actress Tamara Bleszynski, which delighted all the children. Music played throughout the afternoon, keeping everyone moving to the rhythm. However, the highlight was to see the SPICE children sitting side-by-side with their Solebuddies, giggling while watching the magicians’ funny tricks. They say that a picture is worth a thousand words and it is clear from the photographs of the event that the day was hugely successful, supported by many donations, including from children who brought in their pre-loved toys. It just goes to show that a little bit of love goes a long, long way.

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Sight

Pucak Manik waterfall “A refreshing spot in Buleleng” Words and Photos Anggara Mahendra

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uleleng regency is home to a lot of beautiful scenery, including Pucak Manik waterfall in Wanagiri village in Sukasada, sandwiched between Buyan and Tamblingan lakes and around 60 kilometers from Denpasar. This beautiful 1,575 hectare village is now actively developing eco-tourism and has opened up a 3-kilometer road to the waterfall. Traveling along the main Munduk-Wanagiri road, billboards promote Pucak Manik waterfall and there is a signpost pointing out the direction. An entrance fee of Rp 15,000 (US$1.10) is charged per person at a hut where you leave the car park to take the challenging path, which is both rocky and slippery, through the coffee and clove plantations. “In the past, Pucak Manik waterfall was inaccessible to visitors because of the dense forest,” said

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Kadek Agus, a local youth who sells entrance tickets. Only six months ago, the local residents worked together to build a modest road and develop a parking lot for visitors. “We named the waterfall after the subak temple, which is around 300 meters from the ticket box,” Agus said. The facilities include several wooden benches, garbage bins and the narrow path leading to the waterfall. The village actually has seven waterfalls nearby. “If you want a more adventurous trip, we can take you trekking for around five to six hours roaming the coffee plantations.” The adventure trekking package costs Rp 250,000 per person, including an accomplished local tour guide. “Many European tourists, especially the French, love the trekking trip,” noted Agus.


Soul

Cycling for

AIDS

“Five expats sustain HIV/AIDS program by cycling” Words Ni Komang Erviani Photos Courtesy of Double T Tour

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ewa Nyoman Wirawan cannot hide his happiness. Now, he feels sure that his Kerti Praja Foundation can continue to provide free medical treatment for people living with HIV/AIDS and free HIV tests for the island’s residents. This relief came about after five expatriates from the Netherlands and Belgium handed over US$10,000 to support the foundation’s program. The money was raised through the Double T Tour, a 110-kilometers charity bike ride from Tirta Gangga in Karangasem to Tanah Lot in Tabanan. “This support is very helpful to continue our program as AusAID no longer supports us,” Wirawan said during a modest handover ceremony. After almost 20 years supporting HIV/ AIDS programs in Indonesia, the Australian government overseas aid program, AusAID, stopped its support in early November, affecting HIV/AIDS foundations across the archipelago.

“With or without support from AusAID, we have to fight to continue our program. I’m so glad that they came and supported us,” Wirawan said. The cyclers were Dutchmen Ad Landheer and Mathieu Nagelkerke, who initiated the ride, accompanied by Nico Landheer and Steef van Huffel from Holland and Belgian Patris van Huffel. Leaving Tirta Gangga at 7 a.m., they took seven hours to arrive at Tanah Lot, stopping at several places along the way where they also received cash donations. Most of the donations, however, were raised through the Double T Tour facebook page, which had opened six months earlier. “Before we started, we had raised at least $9,000,” Landheer said. Last year, the Double T Tour also raised $8,000 to support the Kerti Praja Foundation HIV/AIDS program in Bali. “Around 90 percent of the donations were from the Netherlands and Australia, as well as

expatriates living in Indonesia,” Landheer said. “Thank you very much for the support. This is very helpful for us,” Lisa (not her real name), a woman living with HIV/AIDS, said. Established in 1992 by Wirawan, Kerti Praja is one of the oldest NGOs working on HIV/ AIDS in Bali, actively reaching out to high risk communities to increase awareness of the HIV infection risk. The foundation provides free HIV counseling and voluntary testing, as well as free medical treatment for those declared HIV positive and supports patients using the antiretroviral (ARV) therapy provided free by the government. “The government only provides the ARV medication, not the mentoring and counseling. Our staff take the responsibility to remind people to take their medication once a day and motivate them as the medication usually has side effects,” Wirawan said. Kerti Praja supports at least 700 people living with HIV/AIDS currently taking ARV therapy and works with around 1,000 direct sex workers and thousands of indirect sex workers

across Bali. With 22 outreach workers, two doctors, two nurses and one laboratory employee to carry out their program, the foundation used to receive about Rp 300 million ($21,886) a year from AusAID. Eleven of the outreach workers were paid by Global Fund. The foundation, he said, now receives funding from the Denpasar AIDS Prevention Commission to pay for eleven outreach workers. “They only committed to paying for November and December,” Wirawan said, adding that the outreach workers had all taken a drop in salary. The Commission does not pay for the doctors, nurses and lab staff, who have to be supported by donations. Wirawan said he understood the Australian policy to end their support as they had funded HIV/AIDS programs in Indonesia for almost 20 years. “Personally, I am embarrassed that our own government has yet to take on that role,” he said.

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The calling

“A Balinese couple of Chinese descent follows the path of Siwa-Buda priesthood” Words and Photos I Wayan Juniarta

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wo pemangku (temple priests) sat next to Ida Ketut Windia as he placed a handful of wheat flour in the middle of a pandanus mat that covered part of the floor. He then carefully used his fingers to spread the flour and create an image of a lotus flower with eight petals, a sacred symbol in Balinese Hinduism. He repeated the same process before taking out his pen and drawing sacred letters on the petals of the two lotuses. This rite of nyurat padma (drawing the lotus) ended with Windia and the two pemangku covering the mat with a thin sheet of white cloth. “The Jro Gede candidate and his wife will sit on the lotuses during their purification rite,” Windia said, before finishing a bottle of mineral water in one single gulp. It was a particularly humid morning and the people of Budakeling in Karangasem had just started their day. From the wooden gate of the

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small room where Windia had just completed the nyurat padma rite, one could glimpse the village’s main market. One food vendor, a woman who once worked in a Nusa Dua tourist facility but decided to return to Budakeling so she could enjoy a quieter life and more free time to play cards, was frying deliciously aromatic pindang (salted fish) while we were trying to find the most comfortable sitting position amid her stall’s chaotic arrangement of bottled sodas and children’s snacks. To the east of her stall was a kiosk selling fresh flowers and other ritual paraphernalia. Its owner was nowhere to be seen. In total, there were less than 30 people in the market; not a bad day at village level. Budakeling is a historic village known as the home of Brahmana Boda, a lineage of high priests that was established by Danghyang Astapaka, a sage who arrived in Bali, and the


Cover Story

village, in the 16th century. Brahmana Boda practiced Siwa-Buda, a school of thought in Balinese Hinduism characterized by the syncretism of Hindu and Buddhist elements. Lately, Siwa-Buda has enjoyed a strong resurgence of popularity among Balinese intellectuals and youths. “So which one of you will undergo the mewinten ceremony,” she asked in high Balinese, with that melodious Karangasem accent. Apparently, the news that an out-of-towner would undergo the mewinten agung ritual had reached the market. We murmured that the guy was “our friend” and started eating, well, devouring to be honest, the tasty pindang and spicy mixed vegetables. Mewinten is the spiritual initiation ritual through which a Hindu devotee is purified and then allowed to partake in specific religious duties. A basic mewinten transforms a layman into a pemangku, a status that would give him or her the authority to preside over religious ceremonies at a family or village temple. Mewinten agung is the next step in the process, giving the recipient the status of Jro Gede — a high priest apprentice. The final step is the

diksa, through which a Jro Gede would be inducted as a high priest. Only married couples can undergo these rituals as the new status is imparted upon both the husband and the wife. Four pindang and three plates of nasi sela (rice mixed with sweet potato) later, we returned to Griya Kawan, the high priest’s compound, some 50 meters north of the market. Windia was busy greeting the VIPs, including some Boda high priests, who wanted to witness the ritual. The ritual drew much attention because of one single fact: The Jro Gede candidates were a Balinese couple of Chinese descent. In contemporary Bali, someone of Chinese descent becoming a pemangku is definitely a rarity, while becoming a Jro Gede is unheard of. If the candidates were to complete the spiritual journey and partake in the diksa, then the couple would be the first Hindu high priests of Chinese descent. We found our friends, I Wayan Gunawan, a.k.a. Jro Kuning, and his wife, Tio Sung Thao, at the veranda of the compound’s westernmost pavilion. They were surrounded by men clad in white — the senior Jro Gede, who took turns in giving the couple advice on sesana, obligations and prohibitions they must follow once they completed the mewinten agung. Always speak honestly, refrain from immoral acts and obey the nabe (spiritual teacher) are among the basic sesana. Sitting apart from the group was an elderly man in a white shirt and sarong with a kretek cigarette in his fingers. His white flowing beard and enigmatic smile gave him the appearance of a sage of Hindu mythology. Despite all the commotion around him — the chattering of arriving guests, the rushing of Griya’s female members serving refreshments to the invitees, the melodic sound of gender xylophones played by four charming little boys — he stayed silent and only nodded or smiled in acknowledgement to every pemangku and high priest who offered him their respect. He was Ida Pedanda Boda Gede Made Gianyar, one of the most senior Boda high priests and Gunawan’s nabe. “I looked into his face and could not hold my tears. I cried and cried. Touched his feet and offered my humble self. In him, I found a man

who is void of any worldly ambition,” Gunawan said, recalling his first encounter three years ago with his nabe. “At that time he said, ‘you are destined for the path of the God’.” Born in the hilly region of Pupuan, where most of the local Balinese of Chinese descent are successful plantation owners or commodity traders, young Gunawan had no idea of, or aspiration to become a spiritual devotee. He grew up into a handsome young man who thought that basketball was the greatest game in the world, period. He became an accomplished basketball player and, later on, a well-paid gym instructor. He was set for life. That was the case until, in early 2000, he began dreaming strange dreams: repeat visions of being granted initiations and powers by the deities of the island’s sacred peaks. He shrugged them all off as nothing but a nocturnal fantasy. In 2005, those dreams manifested into an actual daylight apparition. He was teaching a class in a Jimbaran gym when the image of an elderly deity, the prime guardian of the island’s unseen realm, appeared in the gym mirror before him. The deity asked one simple question, “What are you doing with your life, son?” One week later, people began to show up at his workplace asking him to treat their illnesses. The number of “patients” grew exponentially until he could not do any professional work. Finally, he caved in. He stopped pursuing worldly dreams and started following the path.

He traveled to temples across the island, assisting the custodians in organizing rituals while absorbing the energy and teachings from the hallowed places and simple people. In his home in downtown Denpasar, he constructed a Chinese shrine, where the Chinese deities Avalokitesvara and Kwan Kong are worshipped alongside the Hindu deities of Mount Batukaru and Mt. Agung. He also played a pivotal role in the construction of a Hindu temple in Waitabula, East Nusa Tenggara; the first Hindu temple with a dedicated shrine for the local deities of the indigenous Marappu religion. Since last year, his friends, fellow pemangku and followers had begun asking Gunawan to take the next step to the high priesthood. Initially, he was reluctant. “I am Chinese and it really concerned me how others would perceive the fact that a Chinese man had become a Hindu high priest.” He visited his nabe and put that question before the wise man, who responded in a short sentence. “I don’t think that race is a problem for the gods.” Thus, on that bright and humid day on Nov. 16, Gunawan and his wife took that next step. In an intricate ritual that lasted for nearly three hours and culminated in the nabe inscribing holy letters on their torsos, tongues and the top of their heads, they were both initiated into high priest apprenticeship. Starting that day, Gunawan assumed the new name of Jro Gede Kuning, while his wife will be addressed as Jro Istri Sung Arsini.

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Sight

Eco-tourism “Batukaru farmers preserve their world heritage site”

Words and photos Luh De Suriyani

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t was a sunny morning when dozens of men and women clad in blue T-shirts were busily preparing food and welcoming guests to their village in Gunung Sari, Batukaru in Tabanan regency. The men and women belong to Subak Gunung Sari, a customary farmers’ organization that is now managing a community-based ecotourism program called Suranadi in the Subak Catur Angga Batukaru area, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Gede Sweden, one of the Subak Gunung Sari members, stated that since the area had become a heritage preservation site, the local farmers had started to establish and develop eco-tourism. Some of the modest houses had been transformed into guesthouses with three rooms available for rent and the group had

developed eco-tourism packages, such as agricultural discussion, visits to rice fields, trekking, traditional cooking classes and environmental education. When visiting the village, Sweden was giving a talk about how the subak system worked in the area, describing the traditional farming methods that had led to sustainable farming, water distribution, successful planting and harvesting. Sweden also showed where the cows were kept, in the middle of the rice fields. “The cows are used to plow the rice fields, while their waste is used as natural fertilizer,” he explained. Gede Muratmaja, Gunung Sari village head, said that Suranadi eco-tourism had been established with the help of the Samdhana Institute to help preserve the rice fields as a world heritage site. Thirty farmers manage the

38 hectares of rice fields, as well as being responsible for running the eco-tourism activities. “We have to work together to preserve our subak area,” Muratmaja said. With tourism developing rapidly, the centuries-old subak system and its rice cultivation are under serious external pressure. Urbanization, increasing costs, low financial rewards and the stigma of farmers being seen as uneducated and dirty has led to many farmers selling their fertile land, which is then built on. “Young people inherit our island and its heritage and therefore they must learn about subak,” Muratma said during a recent Subak Student Camp. Muratma admitted that farmers there were still learning how to become effective tour leaders. “But we have to start from now, otherwise we will only be watchers as the island changes and tourism takes over from agriculture,” he said. Meanwhile, a number of women were seen teaching traditional cooking. Mari, Sweden’s wife, explained how to cook satay, urab (mixed steamed vegetables served with spicy grated coconut) and other dishes. “During the dry season, we cannot catch eels, which are our favorite food,” Mari said. Without the eels, she and the other women prepared steamed brown rice and gonda vegetable soup for lunch.

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The view from down here

Wayan Cameng:

Artist turned shopkeeper, philosopher at heart Words and Photo Rio Helmi

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hen you take the road leading east from the crossroads of Peliatan and Ubud to Br. Ambengan, you end up passing a striking display of multicolored earthenware pots stretching along the road for about 50 meters. For first-timers, it catches the eye, for old-timers, it’s a landmark. And if you’re lucky, you’ll catch sight of the owner, a lean middle-aged man with a long wispy white beard, a pony tail and a twinkle in his eye. This is not an ordinary roadside shop.

The Bali Buzz’s Rio Helmi stopped in one day to find out more about the man, Wayan Cameng. Question: Pak Wayan Cameng, you used to be an artist once, no? Answer: That’s right, I was a self-taught painter. I began with traditional Balinese painting, then because of the people I mixed with — artists from Yogya from the Indonesian Fine Arts Institute (ISI) — I also got into abstract art. And now you don’t paint anymore? The problem is that the market tends to lean toward the more academically trained artists. Of course, I really want to paint, but now I express myself in different ways, in life anyway. Painting and art doesn’t necessarily have to be on canvas. So before, when you sold your paintings, did that work for you? Sure, it made a big difference. To enjoy profit from paintings, can be very rewarding in a commercial way. I enjoyed some of it when I joined exhibitions or had my paintings in auctions. But now you are mostly here in the shop? Yes, but as you know in Bali there is so much community activity. I was made kelian banjar (head of the local community) for two periods. So just when I wanted to paint, there would be some matter that had to be dealt with, or I would be called upon. So you couldn’t focus? Yes, and as time went by, my children’s education became paramount. There were school fees, etc., that had to be paid and so forth. But art still plays a role; it’s just translated into my daily life. You could say that all of this (pointing to his pot display) is an installation. Actually, the Balinese have been doing installations since forever. Look at cremations (smiles). Yes, but one day, I’m sure I’ll get back into painting. Nowadays there are a lot of newcomers, migrant workers here, many changes… Very big changes. Very noticeable lifestyle changes for the Balinese. But it has to be, how could it not? Bali is not so welcoming to newcomers now too. Yes, that’s part of the lifestyle change. The daily interface with people is different. Bali used to be primarily agrarian, steeped in its culture and traditions. Now, all that has been transferred to the tourist industry. Now, it’s all about calculation, people aren’t as sincere any more. Now they calculate the hours. With today’s atmosphere of competition, even the arts have been affected.

You have no desire to compete? Hmm. Sometimes I feel the challenge, I think, “I can do better than that!” But then How can I get into it again? You still have your paintings? Yes. Sometimes, I even get an order. Maybe if you go by the Royal Pita Maha hotel, in their office they still have my painting, Tjok Putra bought them. He said to me, “Why don’t you make more like this, I can sell these to my guests. I will pay you contemporary rates. If you don’t make any more, I won’t sell these.” Perhaps you understand how it is for an artist to get paid an advance before being inspired, it can be difficult. Hmm, yes the economy of art is complicated. Yes, there are two sides to the story. If we talk about pure art, fine. But not only must we be idealistic, we also need to money to live. You have to eat! That’s what I told my son: “If you want to be an artist, you have to put aside some of your time to earn money as well.” But he said, “No, you have to be idealist.” Well, I understand his point of view, he’s still a student!

Well yes, that’s true. Even some Balinese are waking up to that. You know, when our friends from Java come here to work hard and sell bakso, for example, after a while they can buy land. Meanwhile, the Balinese sell their land to buy bakso!! (We both laugh). But that is the reality. If you look at the situation now, many Balinese suddenly come into a lot of money, but they don’t know how to deal with it because they’ve never had a lot of money; they aren’t wise about it, then run out of money. For these people education comes in second place.

By the way, as we sit here chatting, there has been a steady stream of customers. This seems a good spot. Maybe it’s more comfortable for you to be a shop owner, you can chat with people as you sell. Ah, it’s all the same. The most important thing is not to be too ambitious, just get on with your life. You know my major was philosophy, I studied at the Hindu Dharma Institute (IHD). So we accept life the way it is and you get on with it. However, it’s important to communicate and socialize. I was lucky to have friends (from the art community) in Yogya — in the old days, there were really only a handful of people who were painters. My wife used to be a teacher, then she even worked in a wig factory. Then we decided to open this little business to boost our income. As you know, we Balinese we have so many ceremonies (laughs). You’ve been here for a long time, don’t you agree?

Yes, they just buy their kids an expensive car. Well it’s probably because the parent’s orientation in life is materialistic. But our orientation should be toward education.

Well yes, but things have changed. Before, all the rituals and ceremonies were the most important aspect of life. Now it seems to be more about self-conscious identity. (laughing) That’s true. That’s why I want my kids to be educated outside Bali. It gives them a different perspective on Bali.

But surely there are a lot of Balinese who are employed by companies, etc.? But they are employed only at the lower echelons: sweepers, low-level jobs. Our human resource pool can’t compete.

Coming back to the migrants. I travel a lot by road in East Java. I see how tough life is for many people there. I understand why they come here to earn more for their families. Often, on the ferry, I chat with people about their lives here. They say, “Mas, the Balinese say all kinds of things about us. But we work hard. The Balinese only sell land, yet they look down on us.” It makes me reflect, from one aspect, Bali’s carrying capacity is threatened by the continual influx, but if we think on a national scale, it looks different. I think nowadays the Balinese are spoilt.

So what does that portend for the future? I can’t say exactly. Can they make a living? People without education can make a living, but it’s different. I think in the future, there will be really major changes coming. The people who are running things now can no longer be relied upon, their policies are something else; don’t imagine that Bali will continue the way it is. The coming generations are much going to be much tougher, it’s because Balinese society isn’t ready, the human resource aspect isn’t ready yet. Nowadays, technology is being accessed and relied upon by people everywhere, yet in Bali we’re a long way from that.

Do you think this will come to open conflict? It’s already happening. Don’t use the excuse that outside provocateurs will stir up trouble, already local villages are at each other’s throats, fighting over the exact line of a territorial border and such like… Because of the soaring price of land? (Laughs) Maybe, maybe. If you think of it, there is no reason to fight over these things. Private land is different, but this?

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Savor

“Celebrating the diversity of local food”

Locavore

Festival Words and photos Luh De Suriyani

As a tropical archipelago, Indonesia is blessed with the ability to grow a large variety of food crops, some of which grow wild, and is justifiably proud of its vibrant, colorful, delicious cuisine based on local ingredients. With the onslaught of modern life, many young people have been drawn to imported food as international chain restaurants and cafes opened up around the country. Despite the onslaught, however, everyone still adores the simple, local food offered by vendors in all urban areas, including Denpasar. During the weekends, food vendors offer food as simple as steamed cassava, sweet

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potato and corn in several public parks in the city, while rujak (slices of mixed tropical fruit served with a spicy brown sugar caramel) has always been a refreshing, spicy favorite for young and old alike. To counter the flood of imported food and drinks into local markets and supermarkets, a group of young people formed Healthy Food Healthy Living (HLFL) and recently held the Locavore Festival. This food lovers’ festival brought together local food sellers, farmers and young people to encourage people to consume fresh, healthy food from local farmers and to highlight a

variety of delicious dishes. One young farmer sold mushrooms in polybags. “When people want to use the mushrooms, they have to cut them from the polybags. This way, they can feel that they are growing their own food,” he said. In one corner, Mbok Luh sold belayag, a specialty from Buleleng in north Bali. Belayag consists of slices of tipat (rice steamed wrapped in young coconut leaves) with boiled egg, fried chicken, peanuts and long beans. “I’ve adjusted the flavor of the belayag so it suits young people. They don’t usually like food with too many spices,” said Luh. Several stands sold nasi bakar (rice stuffed with chicken or fish, wrapped in banana leaves, then grilled). The organizing committee also held activities such as a talk show, photo contest and a cooking competition using traditional local vegetables such as ares (banana trunk), gonde and kecombrang.

Catur Yudha Hariani from Bali Environmental Education Center (PPLH Bali) said that the increasing consumption of imported food had badly affected local food production. “Indonesia is seen as a country with a high dependency on imported food. We are not yet self-sufficient in food.” Encouraging people to consume local food could reduce the country’s dependency on imported products, Hariani said. Food diversity is also important. “Indonesians are used to consuming rice as their main staple food. There are plenty of other options, such as cassava, corn and sweet potatoes.” The festival was a way to open the eyes of Indonesia’s youth to the richness and diversity of local food crops that have been almost forgotten with the influx of the fast food restaurants.


clads

Advertise with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com

SERVICES Accountant, tax consultant, QuickBooks expert. Call 0878 600 22239 anggra1@yahoo.com Aqua Fitness Courses and Aqua Bike Courses, Seminyak. Call: 0818 054 19300 Architect, interior and design consultant. http:// divineaip.webs.com. Experienced with expat and commercial clients. Call 0817559136 (phone & WA), BBM pin 55464822 or email divineaip@gmail.com Baby sitter services. Contact me 0852 3810 0025 Bahasa lessons for foreigners. Tutor: Nika Wirawan, Master degree in Translation Studies with 10 years experience teaching Bahasa to foreigners. For free trial class please phone 087861637555 or email nika.wirawan@ gmail.com or visit bahasalesson.wix.com/bali Bahasa lesson with Juli, years of experience. Master degree in Translation Studies. For free trial class, please contact 088219135161, email madejuliarta330@gmail. com or visit Bindo14.wix.com/bali Blue Med Bioresonance theraphy in front of Pecatu Graha. Please contact 087860133047 for more information. British photographer services available. Specialist in product & culinary photography. Fully equipped modern studio facilities. Call 08123 883532 CV Yazna Villa Management. Professional service for all needs. Located at Jl. Majapahit No.76 Kuta. Office 0361 767 108. Mobile 0812 382 3731 Do you need a consultant for your F&B outlet? Contact Fokus Hospitality for one-stop solution. 0361 274 0619 Driver, speaks English, freelance, honest. Good price. Contact: 081 797 81005 English lessons, prounounciation. Native tongue. Private and group classes. Improve your spoken english. Contact 08776152284 English private tutor offers English/Math tuition for children 5-12yrs. 7 years experience as a classroom teacher in UK & Australia. Call 0817 470 3070

Freelance driver, speaks English, is honest and reliable. Contact: 0819 9996 1750 Freelance pool cleaner and garden services. Please call 0878 6017 0659 Funding available for real estate projects or business expansion. Non-recourse, no pre sales, low interest rate 4%-7%. ajoyacapital.com Get your website on Google’s first page for more customers. Call/SMS 0811 380 151 Grand Master, Babaji Maharaj, offers yoga, meditation, shakti healing through the chakras. Experience of a lifetime! Offering private lessons. Ubud area. Email info@ omatrixcenter.com Here is VETERINARY 24/7 SERVICE. VETERINARIAN. Highly experienced and friendly, on call, 24/7 services. Call: 082144509796

Private piano lessons for kids. Contact Steven, 0813 393 21615 / 089 651 434612

Soap-making class, 4 hours, Rp 1 mill. Call 0813 287 16169, kesambibali@gmail.com

Private yoga lessons: in a studio, in a villa or in the comfort of your home. British teacher. All levels catered for. 0817 470 3070

Swimming, private courses. For more information please call 0818 054 19300

Relaxing Thai massage for women. Contact: 0822 3760 3026

Ticketing & Tour Packages. Contact Ohana Tour Bali on ohanabali.com or 0821 4402 1005 Web design, SEO, and video editing service. Portfolio : creativewebdesign.com Contact : 0819 9938 5206

Relaxing yoga, private classes. For more info, please call 0822 3760 302

Wood & composite decking specialist & carpenter. Email : woodworking.bali@yahoo.co.id 081999857305

Saxophone or guitar lessons at any level. SMS 0813 398 07682 Doug.

www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertising photography.

Home made jewelry. Silver and gold. Good price with high quality product. Call 081 7477 9129 Indonesian freelance cook. Text Elok 0813 902 36628 Indonesian lessons for foreigners provided at your home / office, native teacher. Sms/call: Ms. Asima 0821 468 50175 / email gemilangcourse@gmail.co, www. balipages.biz.learn.speak.indonesian. Indonesian lessons, free trial class. Contact: 0878 616 37555, nika.wirawan@gmail.com Jonsen Pet House. Dog boarding and playground. 0361 2727 645 / 0812 6304 5125. jonsenpethouse.com Made to order: bags, wallets, jackets, leather. Pls call 0819 3621 9030 Need a building contractor? Call 0881 460 2907 / 0812 360 9639 Painting courses, professional artist. Call 0361 837 2501 Private courses in the Chinese language. Simple system. Call: 0818 055 60595 / 0813 382 17788 Private Indonesian language classes for foreigners. Call Dwi 0813 3870 5158

Island Buzz New marcom manager at Harris Hotel Seminyak

New appointments at InterContinental

Harris Hotel Seminyak has appointed Nevi Snever as its new Marketing Communications Manager. Nevi began her career in advertising and broadcasting as a creative assistant in 2006 and decided to follow marketing communication as her career path. Previously working for two years in marketing and communications at The Kuta Beach Heritage Hotel Bali, managed by Accor, she brings experience to Harris Hotel Seminyak, where she intends to develop new marketing strategies for the company and looks forward to many new challenges and opportunities. Nevi said, “I am really looking forward to working with the team to build even more innovative, open and creative marketing ideas that will further drive audience participation and engagement.” Located in Seminyak, only few steps from boutiques, art galleries, restaurants, bars and the beach, Harris Hotel Seminyak welcomes any questions about this unique company. Harris Hotels are midscale hotels featuring a healthy lifestyle concept; there are currently 21 hotels in operation and 19 still under development. A total of 40 Harris Hotels with 7,504 rooms will be operating by early 2020. Harris is a brand of TAUZIA Hotel Management, headquartered in Jakarta.

InterContinental Bali Resort has announced several promotions within its Sales & Marketing team as part of InterContinental Hotels Group’s (IHG) “Room to Grow” philosophy. Margi Tiarani Mesia has recently been appointed to the role of Senior Digital Marketing Manager having completed eCornell certification for New Media and will continue to set new standards for the resort. Recently, Dewi Karmawan was promoted to Director of Public Relations and Marketing Communications. Dewi has been instrumental in driving InterContinental Bali Resort’s media and PR activity, as well as gaining prominent recognition for the resort, which achieved many awards in 2014 and 2015. The new Director of Sales – Wholesale is Arya Saputra, who has been with InterContinental Bali Resort for seven years. He and his team will now be responsible for driving the resort’s wholesale business from existing markets and seeking new opportunities in emerging markets. Meanwhile, Vivi Rumadana, who started her career with the Reservation Department in 2003, has been promoted to Director of Sales – MICE to seek out new opportunities as the resort grows the MICE segment. IHG’s “Room to Grow” supports and develops staff to pursue significant careers through personal development plans, structured learning, on-the-job reviews and the IHG job referral program.

November 26, 2015

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Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com Untitled: Photo Exhibition Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m. Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 Kul Kul Farm Bali Open Day Every Thursday From 8 – 11 a.m. Come and join workshops and the fun of sharing farm duties. Kul Kul Farm Bali Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Br. Saren, Abiansemal, Badung E-mail: kul@kulkulfarm.com Limbo Hip Every Thursday Starts 8:30 p.m. Lacalita Jl. Raya Batu Bolong No. 68, Canggu

Drawing & Painting Contest for foreign children Dec. 13 From 11 a.m. Ballroom Swiss-Belresort Watu Jimbar Jl. Danau Tamblingan No. 99, Sanur : (0361) 8497000

Events Calendar of Events Ralph Lawson (2020Vision / UK) Nov. 27 Starts 11 p.m. Jl. Camplung Tanduk, Kuta Email : info@kohbali.com kohbali.com Inland Knights Drop Music UK Andy Riley Nov. 27 Starts 10 p.m. – 4 p.m. Mint Club Jl. Petitenget No. 919, Seminyak : (0361) 4732884 themintclub.com Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m. Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 JENJA WEEKENDERS presents DANNY DAZE (Kompakt / Ellum) Nov. 27 From 11 p.m. Jenja Townsquare Suites, Jl. Nakula 18, Seminyak : 0811 3988 088 Christmas Cooking Class Dec. 2 From 9 a.m. Pearl Restaurant Jl. Double Six, Legian, Kuta : 085739692040 Email: balipearlrestaurant@gmail.com

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November 26, 2015

Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday Live Music Every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday Salsa Dance Every Sunday Made’s Warung Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 755297 Petani Restaurant Special Performances Live music every Friday Starts 7:30 p.m. Alaya Ubud Jl. Hanoman, Ubud : (0361) 972200 Sunset Beach Bar & Grill Every Saturday Chill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality. Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888 Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1. Meads Boutique Villas Hotel Jl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa : (0361) 776604

Food & Drinks Denpasar Black Canyon Amaris Jl. Teuku Umar No. 139, Denpasar : (0361) 9378042 / 9378043

ART & CULTURE CORNER Denpasar

Jimbaran Kecak & Fire Dance Everyday Starts 6 p.m. Uluwatu Temple Jimbaran, Badung : (0361) 9041163

Kuta Traditional & Modern Performances Every day (Except Wednesday) Starts 8 p.m. Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza No. 8X, Kuta : (0361) 762750

Tuban Black Canyon Ngurah Rai International Airport : (0361) 8491805

Calonarang Dance Every Thursday, Sunday Starts 7:30 p.m. Mawang Village, Ubud Legong Dance Every Friday Starts 7:30 p.m. Balerung Srinertya Waditra (Balerung Mandera) Br. Teruna, Peliatan, Ubud : (0361) 972124 or 970503 Topeng Jimat Every Wednesday Starts 7 p.m. ARMA Museum & Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan

Activities Courses Dance Lessons Dance for life. Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x : (0361) 7452045 Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music. Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures. Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220 Sherrat Gallery/ BCAC Surrealism painting and art class with Bruce Sherrat Jl. Raya Andong Gg. Sawah, Ubud (between Gangga Sukta and BSA cargo) : (0361) 978617 baliartclasses.com Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about! Jl. Hanoman, Ubud. : (0361) 974244 info@studioperak.com

Shopping Delta Dewata The first supermarket in Ubud Jl. Raya Andong No.14, Ubud : (0361) 973 049, 978 071

Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan, Phone (0361) 705454 Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu, Phone (0361) 7472303 Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 4729081

Bintang Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, Kuta Jl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud

Papaya Fresh Gallery Jl. Mertanadi, Kuta

Tour & Travel Agent Simple Guidance When Attending a Temple Ceremony

Kerobokan Bumbak Coffee Authentic Umalas coffee. Jl. Bumbak No. 170, Kerobokan

Ubud

Barong & Keris Dance Everyday Starts 9 a.m. Jl. Waribang No. 11 Kesiman, Denpasar : (0361) 224596

Perama Tour & Travel Bali, Lombok, Flores, all over Indonesia. Easy and safe at a reasonable price, all for your convenience. Head Office Jl. Legian No. 39, Kuta : (0361) 751551, 751875, 750808 peramatour.com

1. Always wear a sarong and sash. 2. Do not walk in front of people when they are praying. 3. Do not use flash or point your camera at the priest’s face. 4. Never sit higher than the priest, the offerings and/or people praying. 5. During cremation ceremonies, do not get in the way of attendees, however perfect that photographic moment might be. 6. Women are not allowed to enter temples while menstruating.


Where to go

Urang Sunda

Pullman Exhibition - “Lifetime” by Mickael Obrenovitch

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Enchanting Sundanese food at The Long Rice Table Oct. 15 – Dec. 14 The Stones Hotel Jl. Raya Pantai Kuta : (0361) 3005888

Dec. 8, 2015 – Mar. 6, 2016 Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti No. 1, Legian : (0361) 763500 pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com

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Tjakra 7 Spa

Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti No. 1, Legian : (0361) 762500 pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com

Menjangan Island SINGARAJA

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LOVINA

Pulaki Gilimanuk

Mt. Batur

Mt. Sangiang

Mt. Musi

West Bali National Park

Besakih Mt. Agung

NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi

AMLAPURA Sangeh

Ubud

BANGLI KLUNGKUNG

TABANAN

GIANYAR Tanah Lot Kerobokan

DENPASAR 7 Canggu 5 Sanur Seminyak Legian 1 3 Kuta 2 4

Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

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Jimbaran Pura Luhur Uluwatu

6th Annual Harris Day

Benoa

Pura Batu Madan

Penida Island

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Nusa Dua

Dec. 13 From 7 a.m. – 1 p.m. HARRIS Hotel & Residence Jl. Pura Mertasari, Sunset Road,Kuta : (0361) 8947001 whatsupharris.com

Prego Family Brunch

From 11.30 a.m. – 3 p.m. The Westin Resort Nusa Dua : (0361) 771906 Email: dining.bali@westin.com

6 5 W Bali Presents Late Night Session Feat Andre Hommen - Oxia Dec. 3 From 10 p.m. Woobar at W Retreat Bali Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4738106

MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery Bali

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French Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment. Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan : (0361) 4737 888 E-mail: info@metisbali.com metisbali.com November 26, 2015

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NEW YEAR’S EVE GAL A DINNER AT JUM A NA 31st December 2015, Thursday 6.30pm till finish

Usher in the New Year with the glamorous celebration party on the cliff edge! A superb and elegant gala dinner with seafood treats, delights from across the Globe, selections of meats, decadent desserts and plenty of good cheer. Cruise through to the New Year with live band, fire dance, mixed up by our DJ that will heat up the night with soft lounge and party tunes. IDR 2,400++ per person Inclusive of Signature Champagne Cocktail Above price is quoted in ‘000 Indonesian Rupiah and subject to 10% service charge and prevailing government tax

For Reservations: Call +62.361.300.7000 or Email: jumana@banyantree.com

banyantree.com

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November 26, 2015


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